



Dhenloni 
of the Chealagirg, 6 
as “ltrs 
cS PRINCETON, N. J. "y 


Purchased by the Mary Cheves Dulles Fund. 


tad 
Division...n.22-7 5 


. a. Hi “h 
SECEDE <ivaxy- tees ; 




















a AMERICAN Gebtanaeik sretery’ 
$3 fGRRTAL EXPLORATIONS Pies ES Ns 


ry 
ria 


- . 


—: Dee eee fe cealadl ings 


A THE WORTIERN HEGAZ 


’ 
q S 
, io 
~~ Poa 
a Es 
* 


A Tio aihie ‘j 4 fine: i \ 


ay 
‘ a ; f 7 ; 
a Be, * od i H > 
7] ‘ 
4 
< ‘ 
An 3 , a 
ar ; : | ae hs w Ady 
; 5 : <2 OG Mar 17 
. i ; 4, » Wie wy 7 iP ee , 
_ F ‘ ; 
a : ‘ - RNa tt 7 . , hy i, 
i * ; jr? oe — bah Saas | ae 1-38 
4 = ' 
sy een A ‘ z ee cae ' 
Pi mn is . _ : ‘ wm baht oe a oh DE Bx clu PEA g 
; ak Oe ol yi ' ‘ ~ 7 si , y 
a “+ - . ; s ‘3 
ba ; oa 5 . 
Coa 
a ‘ 
rT " _ sf 
i ‘ 


eT Os See Pwr ad ssetcher tg: Pooper teeny (de tas ’ 


AEs CHUA heer ey i Wee ANT ARTS 


a. ® ) ; “hi 
a. pan : . i neha id f 
+ fe 8. : 


A en lene SR GRAY 


a eg 
dae, + 7 
Nt, om 7 - % 
4 se 
sia = 
6 
- a 
e at 
- < 
=. : 
‘tr 
if a iy 
. z 
J ie i‘ 
2 aad ? 
oo. 
Sal! ve ; 4 
‘ ‘ 
als : . 


nt 
‘ 


A. 
Logs 





eae 





ral: 





; “3 = ee: Loe ae : 
- * os bs a 


t Aa 
, a Gon 
2 











“AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY 
QRIENTAISEXPLORATIONS AND? SEUDIES?No «lt 
Edited by J. K. WRIGHT 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


A Topographical Itinerary 
BY 


ALOIS MUSIL 


Professor of Oriental Studies 


Charles University, Prague 


Published under the Patronage of the 
CZEGHEACADEMY “OFSSGIENCESSANDPARTES 


and of 


COAKDE Shs GRANE 





NEW YORK 
ere <6. 


THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY 
BROAD WA Yoh .156)] MeSTREERT. 
NEWS YORK IN key plsios Ax 


STATNI TISKARNA, PRAGUE, CZECHOSLOVAKIA 


TO 
THE CZECH ACADEMY 
OF 
SCIENCES AND ARTS 











Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2022 with funding from 
Princeton Theological Seminary Library 


https://archive.org/details/northerneztopogrOOmus! 


CoO ONSEN ee 


CHAPTER PAGE 
P-R ELVA © Hig eee Gan Meee ce NA Mal EE deciles SRA cia gh Oe iy tay, Bal 

TEM ALA NG geet 8 Cn ens. tine Bre ous Oo Satie eked PRED ee 1 
Daniaschicg.co Va an cee eee bee neki eae eee ey ere: 1 

PhesQ asics oLeyl a-an tare se hein tye Sane eine eum mG aa Mata 2 

Lie LASANSTOSAL-HOME.) MAW petra oe 5 aioe gente a Beene ss, 6 
nes tiweta te. Dribettawe ym etc kG. ek enereaen RUMMY Be og 22 6 

PA WdeRADUELAIJCNN, mua bal Ne cteh Leia: 2 oe MR Ce ed if 
Departure from Ma‘aén........ PE Ee Oh PRD. 5 oe en eee 9 

The Lowland of al-Gafar....... ee tet es Pe eo asie -OF 10 
AOU ico eCOMASUISeODU cAI Ty An enema ie, sete er eee Ld. 

The Hwétat, the Beni Sahr, and the Turkish Government... 13 
ApUshte|Matecomna Woes Cam perme eek te) eet he ee 14 
At<thesGamp_ of wAwderabte a jehiet ee as: one ee eS 17 
hidestowards bl abra eMViin woper es el eerie nee Bnavenes Maem et © ee 19 
Pawzanoustnes ti weta tk mip omace tie anihek Gees Memming haath 20 
Pea a Ud eande open asian, Sere tee Oedr na Manet aie 22 

Ate AwdesaGamp nearghabrasMinwa meee. ete ent oe son 24 
WepartvuresiromisAwde S_Gamp swear eee ae ee ces ne 29 
Miewstromeal=:Gabd sii Ae mena ly taro ei eateries 32 
Al-Gaudwroathense.tp Ofual-Kremusa.s ecetsee enaene Melw, 34 

The Seib of al-Krén to Rwejsit umm Raza............... 36 
Vaeve Lromennollvoteal-Hdej big ee a. ate ae rd ae eae ore 39 
We Isc Celie AZ ancOudl> Alte enna. Gere renee a ence ete 44 
WLC WaRL CONTE DACP Bae iy eas, Tran: tee chee WAS eee nd Se hat 45 

Ale batraecos Dire Hada bam anew te cic, eatin sate eere ne tp newness 48 

Dike odabe LO stoeahUinsnOlreelamimniads petra cme nn eee 51 
Kuinceorenammadstocai-L OMe}]Ma eta ener es wegen 56 

Liga B-HOMEIMAST ORA TI“ ATCA BAY gi ee sens ntact 62 
Al-Lomejmaetomtlarmval-Merseds iene «Cee oak: beele wash) ah eas 62 
Harnteal-Mersedutotal-Knenesl)] jeme mim ee nad, pon fea on 67 
PVI-KnNenesiijerlOrai=W ALAK AL ye eA ate udp co Ney SeeIAR etek we: fal 

PALS Wala ant \aZ-/1 JC} Cua wcll? tag ein am. eee TR ches My a, Suc de 74 
Az-Zjejke to the Rift Valley of al-"Araba at Rigm al-Fazh .. 78 

Re Fea ge 2M NWA altel esi ieee W le Nay CN co AUPE Ne Le Wee ae we des 81 

LVARAT AIGA BASDOSMAD LAIN wee Mi cia ec) ten Me mene Meee era + tn 88 
PISA ADA SLOMLLAK teen ele Ate eect y eer LCSD it) see ienee 88 
Hakisto se Wilnas-Sipy. cya g tytn. eee nee eae rrr MM” Tk cs 94 
‘Ehyias-Sirre to: these 10) of. al-Misma’ yee. en atic pce. 97 

The Setb of al-Misma’ into Wadi al-Abjaz.. ............. 101 
onthe huinssotenawriet... .orcuee areas Pabst os MR LES Se aS 105 

Ate MACIAN 5 whee aie: Rakaly, Cate STRESS tee ace aT aii aay Ot pee LOO 


vi THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


CHAPTER PAGE 
V MADIAN TO-THE OASIS*OF SARMA.) 73 9655.0) eee i VA 
Al-Malkatato*al=Hra DG aac 2 yecm ver tae onan een ee Salva! 
Atal-Hrajbe@t ie. % U2 niece ccs sete etter ae ee Was 
The Hwétat at-Tihama and the Turkish Government....... 12 
Topography of Region between Sarma and Bada’.......... 132 
To (Sarma wi Eee ee ae et ee ne a 137 
VI THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK BY WAY OF AL- 
RARR 2 ein Se ee ae eg es ae) Ge ee 139 
Sarma.to the Crest of the al-Geles Range. 73.2). 2 ee 139 
TovansN & emcee ne pee een Sa te 147 
An-Na.emi-to, Naka=Kemajeing, ver wee ect) ae ee 151 
Nakay Kemajem: to®perka—-d-Dime7Zist ey ego ee 154 
Berka’-d-Dimez to. Lebtikiee coca) eee a eee rae ee 159 
Sojourn .at Tebtike fey yey, 2 ee ace nie ae oe ee eee 161 
TepOk el Ae ee Sa ee en ee Saree mame ahec en Se 167 
VII TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL BY WAY OF RWAFA...... 1s 
Departuresfrom 2? Lebukvegy ee ee eee ity 
AIZW ejned ‘to S-Se] iris anne ee ee one tee Memes he 173 
AS-Sejjersto Harnival-Waharnitige pee ere eee eee ee 178 
Harm al-Faham to the Se%b of Retame; Rwafa............ 184 
Retame-to’ ar-Rkejky aca et ere ne ce ee eee ino 
Basinvot.ar-Rkejk-to.az- Zubair ee 194 
AZ-Zurpanto “A DUA SaAWTA: baat eee ieee te ee eae ae 198 
The Se%b of Abu Sawra to Rice al- Fased Op Cattle) Age) eg ee 202 
Rigm al-Fased to Wadi al-Gizel; Attacked by the Beli. ...206 
WaAdinal Gizel ey amare | rela wate PE Ses EN EN 211 
VIII RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK BY WAY 
OF AL-MU‘AZZAM....... ET OT ONS hee ee Jen A are 213 
Through al-Gaw into Harrat Ae ‘Awérez ee a ha es Acety ees PAs 
Through Harrat al- “Awérez toather Railway see eee eee 219 
The Se toeof al-Hakactoal-Hamic tree ee eee 224 
Al-Hamis=to Hsem Birkin. ASAD nse res, hoe aeeteno: 229 
HsemeBirk to lebuky 91. sate bo Up te Wena eae ee a 230 
At Tebtk; the Beni Se eS ORR ee eee Mn! 234 
Return tosMa anaes cs Se, Ai ae ane See gegen ce eee 237 
APPENDIX ‘ 

L.MMASAN GA ND EMA ONG eet ee cer oe ae Mig ee Pe eeAD 
Metin ‘and+Ma on of the Bible: 7) 1.5.0)... Wye Salle Se NS 243 
Arabic; Authorsson wa alee ae eee ee ee nee eee 

Tl THE: CAND? OR MUS mane ee .or Ri one teach eee bee “ene4e 
LOMAN 2 pe cree See oo Sata La eer ee RETR ct ee ae 249 
suah; Na amas-and Biz... eee ee ee Vt Al 


Ill SEIR, AS-SERA’, AND THE NORTHERN FRONTIER OF 
THE HEGAZ. 25 aoe) pot O14 LR Ree eae . 252 
pearcandsas-Seras. ieee hs, AW, ahs co, 2 ene _.1 252 


CONTENTS vil 


APPENDIX PAGE 


ill 


IV 


XIII 
XIV 


SE‘IR, AS-SERA’, AND THE NORTHERN FRONTIER OF 
THE HEGAZ (continued) 





PneeNorthermauronticrnOl Lhe; Herazsemmen 9: jon en cee ee 255 
FEA Faas VCALSRCT THiS op tee ack ot woe emer Suns ocean ater a 259 
Eee SO. Ee 1A 1) ieee ere aan Ramee RR REE ee ST 262 
AMSG oT OMU MOTO AMS MO TOP SO UPTURN io Ses ys tr oe Oe Poe Ee 267 

PYLON yp vaLowvLOun besInale OF. bl Ol Cage nen ewan 267 

Hromie vlounts sinalatonvie i mtream  Zalrede ws arate cee 269 
MOUNT IRAM AND THE ARABS OF THE BIBLE........ 213 
Tole eAie AUN @A ND SPAR A Niece of an ennai 2 ae UN a 275 
THE CITY OF MADIAN, THE MADIANITES, AND THE 

MOUNAING OF} GOD. oe. he eS Ray eer eT in Ra 278 

LOM CLL Var O lig VLC AT Siete oie ee Orc ak Pee a et eR ine Bi 278 

heebripe tote anigng 40 to i, eek nears oleae rare 282 

ne pisses ©o fe Madian Siete a ca arene Bie ha erate Oe on. oe 285 

The Madianite Clans of Biblical and Assyrian Records... ..287 

Seba’*or (Saba; the Sabaeans 2. gi..3) qe 2. 2. ae Pe 288 

Paya p DAV rata ace mice en, Sn sa ga eM Ac tae ene S:8 et) 

Badatitee eee ee ieee hee aes gee se Once te otal fas 290 

Ha Liem Bees cinch csc, Rolie RRR eee ee poths Pika ale et ae 290 

Tdibadifore At bere] boao. v2 co tere ereaane re ae en 291 

SL CLTVitl Ch Deere aed 1 PE Ct A mah come eke EGR oak st, ria 291 

ibadidigorsA picasa, 18 RRA, Se Cea eia FON ne eae ead Se fy only 

WIAYSIIN Glin Sates ee ee Rae a res fee sce a, Le, 292 

Ocnerevi Adi an tem it DOS wears strane. can er eer near nee | 293 

DedanszoreWajdan ee ee a oe ete. eg green a Wess, Nha e EO eatin 2 2938 

NOLBROGWAGEC WIRY? «vec / gmt ha hed eC AE RS Oo te a tiWe! ORME ORIE Je, INOS SS Het Vee ee 296 

hes OUrita itis Ole OCs ari mas oc a et te eee tend, 296 
A TRELE.G ROG Ml ener eg eee gata ion eS ork Ok ete ltt 299 
THE NORTHERN HEGAZ ACCORDING TO THE CLAS- 

LCA [aA Nae ATR GRA LEH © RS Rewer cc center teat tieur 302 

The Coast and Islands of the Northern Hegaz.............802 

Classical Authorities on the Northern Hegaz .............. 309 
AGRO dC ROSE TOD ead Ope Wl AW ieee ait I ae Ue ga et era a See 313 
ESB Uy Kee ee ee Oca ea ea To eh ta pot Panty ttl gehen 318 
THE PILGRIM ROUTE FROM EGYPT . Sek MRM CRAIN id: OE oe Hi S21 
eb ee elGiiMekO LDH RO Me tDANLA SG Us ne. .be eee ees 326 
BIBETO GUAR EL Yc see ey ep wee ria ee Ree pt teers Ware: Niele ae hee 335 


INDEX sea fees ee Por pings se 349 





| 
_ 
a 


OMOAONMHEWN FH 


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 
Mapeon. Ma angand. en vil Onssaana eee ae, ieee 0 ies ern 3 
iThesdolmensoted DUgeA CATeiive «2s. 14 oe See ee ee LG 
Eworaolmencasoutn OL Labtar Mini Wasa. wa unseen 6 cee cuban 31 
TubejzcalvAtaretromeathe westcmian oc 8 aerate Memmi en lreanarie, We 32 
Basoiassoriresse1 roms thersoutneastin.. 7) aie mie tee Pan ee 40 
Pasdiaiufortress, interior. seit. eeu rns ct aheaeteenn nits Nt eee a 40 
Rain: pooleote has ate eee? es ear ala earn a ae Al 
From al-Hdejb looking southeast, south, and southwest......... 42 
Bijate Weisel eal=Batvauey wets. | ke vas kane RE mete ck a 46 
Bijare(wellstot )s al-Batraderg osanesne Paes tie eR ee Pees, eae: 46 
Plansor Roman, wWalcntowereal- ba tla eo nee cre er oe ee AT 
Ramsrote Ummeat.Telageus itl a) es a ennet te ears esi ale se le 49 
Bron A jneburkat looking anorthies wrecpeea tee od ett ees okt! 
Bromsal-Helwat looking enortn yee en (reeset oar ee tensa) Seare ake We 57 
Eromeal-Helwaelooking esOutiiven eae serie he peeneeinte eek id ogee i! 
From al-Homejma looking toward the range of Reet ewe vee 58 
Eromeal-Homejmaslooking ssouth tyes. eee eee 8 ees oe ase 59 
An “Alawi and our guide........... SIT AR bs en Sg 2 aees0) 
Ale Kwerd: cTOmMetnGs CAST. ait soli Aoinuenne. Monomaen state ela ty a a 63 
Alekwerantrom, the fsoucneas tan wane ee ee Mee Ooi anes kn paves 63 
Invtheshomanycamp,4l-Kwerdusaomnge wee. Sane emo eeue % fee oo aclyew 64 
Harme(derilé on) sal-Mersed a. tiga etme ats oe tise onl eek aie 67 
A ZEAE IKON > Mila etity ag 06 SICK y ome Bw er pes ia 8 Hes habe age” ane Cee a EO va 
PW sab ag th SA la bl cegncmrey “eee ipacs 9 Aer ON lela Coan HR iO eT Mo ee Meee ae Cen 75 
Mouritealei kassebagsee ton inten pee tie Renee toners Re ee ste cae Soc Tad 
Krommnicm ai-haznslookin@enorthensts 5 selene era oe 
ATA Kap awe roms LN CANOLCH vsndein st ca ema cnr ee AP ie wih Sats age chahvenrice Pe 82 
The stronghold of al-‘Akaba from the northeast..... ow tee. NOO 
AlaAKADa tne northeastern elOWenn (eye teenie at eter Rares 
Bisetbe velo tee Alle: ae Nee te et Re Ree Oe at eh ar, ceva a a 89 
PAkabateAlia.swatcntower, Oledicbrejo: g.se ne yee a ey ee Sica ae, 90 
PL ACeTrOMs. CN eRCAST cit nue thet ting RHO Pn icq Inne MAST Md occ aNeD. 92 
OUTEO TT COSILOErE Opens tae cern anne neIAe Woe arn ie kN eh ce ee nd 98 
Samm rae) UMADeLeOniretnean ren Wes tisthe site tne cakerna a iiss lc G. Penne 104 
Hromeka edan shavers looking northeast. oom ke eee ee, 106 
Prono cdanwnaper looking «southeast wan. es ih enn y ghee ae Sane 107 
CO TEP UL CRA CRA DOC St, Ser veem GI ee Loh Aone etn 4d les 108 
Map of the site of ancient Madian........ AS TOR is Pee been WE 110 
Trimtheenecro polis Madians remote oF cor Seamed hates teen aol ine 
Ingiheonecropolisss Viatianteae see ne ne eek tee aN Mee eo, bc Lk]. 
Injthesnecropolis.-)ladian= 64.02 oeee A Teeth pit ool Orde see ile al 
FPN es TODDETSplIMaN net nase Deen ne Grote ete eae ee a ey 
Avsenulcher ss Madtan wera cu, Gah vce ee teune mee ee a ean Dee ee Be ae 113 
Plansotaarsepulchera Viadialie sie. cu eee kt Be eee ees Ps, 114 
Rlankotya. sepulchermMadian. 4.0 2Meiaw ce an ee ey tks hanes 114 


x THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


FIG PAGE 
AG: Plan ofa sepul cher mMadinnwee sree tek ai ce Ret ee ee Saris 
ATs Interior Of a sepulchermiyaniatieme ct we kits och a, ee ee Oe able 
48. (Avsepulcher, (Madiangre a. ager aveeeee ce eM ow el 115 
49‘ Avsepulcher;*Madtariie 2a eon taeeee iss mene tert ako We, Von apne se 116 
50 <A sepulcher, Madian...... Sh ete ES ORR NE SN mr 116 
51) “A *senuleher.Madiansay a ee ee ee ie Se, ne | ne Ada eae 2 LG 
52 A’ senulcher; av adia nwa eee ee ae = sake ee ae fees LO 
5d) Rain spookoor salawialiva te sences ee eer meat ee: ota ct oko een me 119 
54; Wromral-Malhatlooking snorthiwestavm. anen) naan eee 119 
5b’ ~The! 8626 .ofs as-S wer 5.4, ene ee See aes a) Pia el, Gate We 
56, -Al-Hrajbe?trome®thesnortnwes ts seuete setae meet as cor nie 126 
57) Palms-insthe valley :ot;al-Rarrstrom, theswest. 40.0.) oscceeee 140 
58) “Mount Dubbarirom 2th ewes Gas cee re ee toa fae 142 
59) “The=seups0l  as- lk orth sete an eee ae ee FReeh 2 Ae shtyee ski eee 145 
60 Ammu Frtz from the south (near Berka Id) .................. 158 
61 <Fhe-notchsof al-biuna trom sthetwests, 4.2.0 ne een ee ee x ies 
62.) OUPTENCAM Pent LCD Uk eee eee cent flee ene ame eee ee eng RN eee 
63° Map 2of Tebukiand environs: pe eee ee ee ee iP 166 
64°>"Around“theyspring ys evn Ky Ulisaeic ie an ery ee ee 167 
65 The eastern extremity of the oasis of Tebtik from the north ...169 
66° "AltEMedarig et ee a Le Pee ee ee ee 173 
ov Ancient-grave near these 7b <oreAnejlil wae. eee ee eee 176 
68°" Thezsé 2br of al= Wejned.t4.) qe ee Mit, Pusha cece Wes Bales ayn 
69 At the rain well MSa al-Gdejjed...... ioe pene SER aes alse 
TOUsRUINS Ole Rwalawlromethe. Cas tieeeime caus eed ae ean 7 nen oe eel 186 
(JigeRuinsy 017 Rwata trom tthesnortheast. se. eke ALon 
72 Map of Rwafa and environs ... LSP Shed ate en ae ie ear ks 
fos. birsuwellsor) mal<Vigd Kite, ite ec ee eee Masala Sota Rboe 
74.Our guide at .ar-Rkejk: ....... Lm Saibe eP RRO eeN nn B pwrle? ee 195 
Tose Umm Gebentyt (toi Seibert, ks ga Re a 196 
76 A grave at al-Bedi..... TE i ye ae ee ee er 198 
tis gAcprave tatval- Bedi tee ee ste Caiak toe tals, | ee ees ae ee ee eee ee 198 
fon ANornave=at; al= Bed iwc, sky acti eet of Mae eee ee 198 
(oeeViount27-ZUT DA Vereen tere ey ee en 4h 1 iad Sone, akg 
80 eMount al-laiattronisinexcast.: wear le i ee ee ee A 
ol Wrom= base; of Mounteal-Laja/lookinevsouths.. . 2 sees ee ee 200 
S20.Lhersetos oftal-Keza wy one eS ey pet eR Pike Rice eee 203 
83 The setb of an-Nezib......... ORE a oe WIR oe Desh ich Vee Nae 205 
O47 Temajela(raintwells of }ean-Nezipiae ee eee es Ot ee ee 207 
oo The ssétb_ oft at- Dwerijj@ sen) se nee Waa Fears tia eee taser Peer AN S 
56° .Railwaysstation sel ebuks eee ern oN nies coe, eet Ne eee ne 237 
Map of the Northern Hegaz (1:500,000)...... Me Bhi meh ie COR DOCIEEL 


Indexsmap | (472000:000) Secu. eee ee eee a nt ee _.in pocket 


PREFACE 


In 1896, at the request of Dr. Fr. Ladislav Rieger, the Czech 
Academy of Sciences and Arts made me a grant for the pur- 
pose of carrying out explorations in Arabia Petraea. In 1908, 
after the fruits of these explorations had been published, 
the Academy, as a result of the intercession of its founder 
and first president, Mr. Joseph Hlavka, made me a new grant 
which provided funds for my investigations in Arabia proper. 
Therefore it is with a profound sense of obligation that 
I dedicate the first part of this new scientific work to the 
Academy which has done so much to make it possible. 

To Dr. J. K. Wright the author owes a debt of gratitude 
for his services as editor of this volume. 

The skeleton of the accompanying map ot the Northern 
Hegaz was based on my detailed itinerary, determinations of 
latitude, and extensive plane-table surveys. The Hegaz Rail- 
way was drawn according to the sketch lent to me by the 
Board of the Railway at Damascus; the Red Sea coast accord- 
ing to the British Admiralty chart. In filling in the parts 
not previously investigated I have made use of many sketches 
obtained from the natives. The northwestern part of the map 
I have compared and checked with the map in Sir Richard 
F. Burton’s The Land of Midian, 2 vols., London, 1879. To 
ascertain the elevations we took readings of three aneroid 
barometers examined before and after the trip at the Military 
Geographical Institute at Vienna. The Directorate of this 
Institute has determined the heights above sea level by com- 
paring our observations with those taken simultaneously at 
the stations at Jerusalem and Beirut. 

To the spelling of the proper names I have given great 
attention, since names correctly spelled may form the basis 
of historical investigation. In transliterating Arabic sounds 
I have used the same signs as in my Arabia Petraea and 
Kusejr ‘Amra. I have endeavored to express every sound by 
a single letter or a single symbol. The meaning of the different 
symbols will be found by experts below the title of the map 
of the Northern Hegaz. For the general reader I would point 

Xl 


xii THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


out that 7 is to be read like g in vem, § like sh, Z like z 
in azure, é like ch in chief, 7 like y in yoke. ‘ is a strong 
euttural sound. The remaining symbols need not trouble him. 

Throughout this work most of the Biblical names have 
been transliterated consistently with the scheme of trans- 
literation employed for Arabic names. The forms, hence, are 
often somewhat different from those found in the King James 
version, but the latter may readily be ascertained by reference 
to the Bible itself. When the transliterated form of familiar 
Biblical names differs very widely from that of the King 
James version the latter is in some cases indicated in 
parentheses. 

References to the Bible are to Rudolf Kittel’s second 
edition of the Hebrew text, Leipzig, 1913. The reader will 
observe that occasionally these references are at variance 
with the text of the King James version. These variations 
are due to the fact that my interpretations of the meaning 
of the original Hebrew sometimes diverge from that of the 
translators of the King James version. 

Bibliographical references in the footnotes are given in 
abbreviated form. The full references, with the dates of 
Arabic and ancient authors, will be found in the Bibliography, 
pp. 835—340. 

The meaning of the majority of Arabic terms used in the 
text will be evident from the context. The following terms, how- 
ever, are frequently employed without explanation: 

setb (plural, se7bdn) : relatively small watercourse or valley occupied 

by an intermittent stream. : 

wddi (plural, wudijdn): relatively large watercourse or valley 

occupied by an intermittent stream. 

wali: governor of a Turkish vilayet or province (Arab. wildje). 

mutasarref: governor of a Turkish sanjak (Arab. mutasarrefijje 

or liwa’, subdivision of a vilayet). 

kajmakam: governor of a Turkish kaza (Arab. kada, subdivision 

of a sanjak). 

mudir: governor of a Turkish nahiyeh (Arab. mudirijje or ndahije, 

subdivision of a kaza). 

kddi: judge, magistrate. 

Arabic botanical terms which appear in the text are 
listed in the index with brief characterization and Latin 
equivalents as far as they have been determined. 

A sketch map showing the author’s route and indicating 
the pages in this volume in which the different portions of 
his itinerary are discussed accompanies the volume. 


Cablens bs Ts BR ee 
MA‘AN 
DAMASCUS TO MA‘AN 


In the middle of March, 1910, I was invited, at the sug- 
gestion of Dr. Mark Kaller, to Constantinople, where I entered 
into negotiations with the Turkish Government and the Board 
of Health regarding a journey of exploration in the northern 
Hegaz. The Board of Health was desirous of discovering by 
what routes pilgrims were evading the quarantine station at 
Tebtk, the methods by which this evasion could be checked, 
and whether this center could or could not be transferred. 
Tal‘at Bey, the Minister of the Interior, wished to learn the 
political attitude of the tribal chiefs in this region, and he 
also desired to know in what localities settlements could be 
developed. He promised me every assistance and said that 
he would send special instructions to the Governor General 
at Damascus, who at that time was Ismail Fadel Pasha. 
Assuming that Tal‘at Bey would fulfill his promise and that 
I should be able to work unrestrictedly, I took with me 
Dr. Leopold Kober, of the Geological Institute of the Uni- 
versity of Vienna, and my valued assistant Rudolf Thomas- 
berger of the Military Geographical Institute. Leaving Vienna 
on April 21, we proceeded via Trieste to Alexandria, Beirut, 
and Damascus, where we made preparations for our journey. 

When we reached Damascus we found that Isma‘il Fadel 
Pasha was inspecting the extensive area under his adminis- 
tration and that he was not expected to return for several 
weeks. His deputy knew nothing about the promise made by 
Tal‘at Bey concerning special instructions and maintained an 
attitude of complete passivity. After two weeks, however, he 
informed me that he had received word from Constantinople 
that I might proceed to the Hegaz, but only by railway, 
and that I must not alight at any intermediate stations. 
This was at variance with the promises I had been given 
in Constantinople; but I thought that Ismail Fadel Pasha 
would act on my behalf when he returned to Damascus or 
when I applied to him by letter or telegram for assistance. 


1 


2 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


My only desire was that the Turkish Government should 
not interfere with me. I did not expect active aid from them, 
as I was aware that their authority did not extend more 
than a very short distance from the railway track. My old 
friend Halil Fattal and various acquaintances had provided 
me with recommendations to a number of prominent men 
in the Hegaz and at al-Medina. Then, too, I was familiar 
with the conditions of the country and knew several of the 
native chiefs, so I had no doubt regarding the success of 
the expedition. I was troubled only by our late start, as 
I knew that the tribes migrate at the beginning of June 
from the interior of the desert to the seashore and that in 
the remoter districts we should find neither water nor guides. 
As head man and servant, I had engaged my acquaintance 
Gwad, clerk to my friend and brother Prince an-Nuri eben 
Sa‘lan and his relative Serif. GwAd was to proceed with our 
supplies from station to station, our purpose being to explore 
the surrounding district on camels, returning to the stations 
only to secure fresh supplies. We all donned the attire of 
Arab nomads. Kober and Thomasberger, who did not know 
Arabic, were passed off as Turks, and we gave them the 
names of Rif‘at and Taman respectively. 

Having completed all our preparations at Damascus, we 
left that city on May 21, taking the railway for Ma‘an. 
From the station of Ziza, whose ancient and venerable name 
has been distorted by Turkish officials to Giza, we sketched 
out a map of the area on either side of the railway as far 
as Ma‘an.1 

From Ma‘an I sent a message and a letter to my friend, 
the chief ‘Awde abu Tajeh, asking him to lend me some 
camels, so that I might travel on them to his camp, where 
I could purchase camels for our expedition. We took up our 
abode at the station inn and spent our time in exploratory 
rides over the surrounding district. 


THE OASIS OF MA‘AN 


Ma‘an forms an oasis on the western edge of the desert 
(Fig. 1). The slopes of the aS-Sera’ range rise gradually to 
the westward, and to the east extends an undulating plain. 


1A key to place names on the map of the Northern Hegaz accompanying this volume 
is included in the index. See also index map in pocket. 


MA‘AN 3 


The territory west of Ma‘an can be cultivated and in former 
times was cultivated and colonized. To the east there stretch- 
es an inhospitable desert. At Ma‘an itself and in the imme- 
diate neighborhood there are a very large number of springs 
















\ Se 
- Seg \ 
*d. )} 






Wal Halhe.--—— 
a. 7L—St Maan (107%) 











PIA 


J 
pe 


ENVIRONS 


The slopes ore shown ty rorm-lines 
which have no definite altituce vaive. 


METERS 
SS 
0 900 1000 1509 














Fic. 1—Ma‘an and environs. 


and even several copious fountain-heads. The nearest and the 
most abundant of these is ad-Dawawi, from which water 
flowed and still flows through a subterranean aqueduct as 
far as Ma‘an. A second aqueduct, reaching from the distant 
spring of al-Gitte, used to convey water to the reservoir of 
al-Hammam and thence possibly even farther eastward to 
the ruined garden tower of Ammu-t-Trab. This tower is sit- 
uated on the eastward extremity of a long, flat-topped moun- 
tain spur. Utilizing this elevation, a narrow connecting drain 
was installed from which the water formerly flowed north 
and south, irrigating the garden into which the whole eleva- 


4 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


tion had been transformed. The wall of this garden is still 
visible running all along the foot of the elevation, but, suf- 
fering the same fate as other gardens in the surrounding 
district, this one fell into neglect during centuries of unrest, 
and only some scattered remains of the other gardens have 
been preserved near the two entrenched settlements, today 
known as Ma‘an. 

The southern settlement,” Ma‘an al-Masrijje or al-Kebire, 
sometimes called also al-Hegazijje, contains one hundred and 
eighty families, which form two groups: at-Tahata and al- 
KaraSin. To the former belong the clans: 

al-Hawalde 
al-Hammadin 
al-Bezaj‘e 
al-Fanatse. 

Al-Karasin comprise the clans: 

al-Helalat 
‘EKjal Mar’ 
al-‘Abid 
al-“Akajle 
as-Sallahat. 

The headquarters of the Government are at the southern 
settlement of Ma‘an. 

The northern settlement is called as-Sarira, as-Samiijje, 
or al-Morara, and contains about one hundred and ten families. 
The largest clan here is that of the Karamse, smaller being 
the clans: 

at-Tawabte 
‘Ejal Hajjane 
‘Ejal al-Hasan 
an-Nis‘a 

‘Kjal ‘Abdallah. 

The inhabitants of both settlements are occupied princi- 
pally in trading. The soil in the immediate neighborhood of 
Ma‘an contains limestone, and grain will not grow there un- 
less it is continually irrigated. For that reason it is said that 
only ardzi al-ba‘al (bare grounds, because they are insuffi- 
ciently watered by rain) belong to Ma‘an. In places which 
are continually irrigated there is successful cultivation of 
grain, vegetables, and particularly figs, pomegranates, grapes, 


2 See Musil, Arabia Petraea, Vol. 3, pp. 56—57. 


MA‘AN 5 


and apricots. A few kilometers to the west the old fields begin. 
These are leased, tilled, and cultivated by the people of Ma‘an. 

The settlement of Ma‘an is situated at the junction of 
important transport routes. On its eastern side runs the best 
natural transport route uniting southwestern Arabia with 
Damascus and the Phoenician harbors. From it there branch- 
es off in a southwesterly direction the most convenient road 
to the former harbor of Elath, now comprising the settle- 
ment of al-‘Akaba on the Red Sea gulf of the same name. 
To the west there runs an important caravan route to Gaza 
and northern Egypt; and on the east there is a route through 
the oasis of Dimat al-Gandal, known to the ancients as 
Adumu, to the Persian Gulf and Babylonia. To the northeast 
there is a road which divides into two branches at the spring 
of Negel. One passes by way of the ruins of ‘Is — which is 
identical with ‘Us, the residence of Job — northward to west- 
ern Moab. The second, branching off to the north-northeast, 
leads through the ruins of at-Twane — which, in my opinion, 
mark the former settlement of the Téman tribe — to central 
Moab. 

These crossroads and the abundance of water, which is 
not found farther eastward, explain why the settlement of 
Ma‘an has been preserved till the present day, instead of be- 
ing destroyed by the innumerable attacks of the nomads to 
which all the surrounding settlements to the southwest and 
northwest have already succumbed. It would have been sur- 
prising had the settlement of Ma‘an not been of considerable 
importance during the period when the greater part of inter- 
national trade was directed along the above-mentioned routes. 


CHAPTER II 
MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 


The kdjmakam, or representative of the Turkish Gov- 
ernment at Ma‘an, was one of the most intelligent and hon- 
orable officials whom I ever met in the Turkish Empire. 
He exhibited great readiness to assist me, but he himself 
admitted that his influence over Ma‘an was less than mine, 
and he asked me to reconcile him with several of the na- 
tive chiefs. No Turkish gendarme dared to show himself east 
of the railway, and from time to time the noise of gunfire 
could be heard. All the people showed signs of unrest and 
were afraid of what the morrow might bring forth. 

We were anxious to get away from the oasis into the 
open desert, but our camels had not arrived. As we were at 
luncheon, however, we heard the growling noise of Someone 
forcing the camels to kneel down. The sweetest music could 
not have been so gratifying to our ears. We immediately 
brought out our baggage and prepared for the journey to 
the camp of Chief ‘Awde abu Tajeh of the tribe of Hwetat. 


THE HWETAT TRIBE 


The tribe of Hwetat is divided* into three groups: 
Hwetat at-Tihama 
Hwetat eben Gad (or ‘Alawin) 
Hwétat eben Gazi. 

The first group encamps by the Red Sea, from the val- 
ley of ad-Dama on the south to the oasis of Makna on the 
north and eastward to the mountain chain which is known 
generically as al-Geles. The Hwetat eben Gad have their en- 
campments in the northwestern corner of the Hesma region, 
from Mount Ramm, or Iram, in the northwest to the foot of 
the as-Sera’ mountain range in the east. The Hwétat eben 
Gazi are the masters of a8-Sera’ and the adjacent desert to 
the east. The clans of the latter are as follows: 

3 See Musil, Arabia Petraea, Vol. 3, pp. 48—49, 51—55. 

6 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 7 


al-Matalka 
DarawSe 
“Amamre 
Maraj‘e 
ad-Dmanijje 
al-“Uttin 
at-Tawajhe. 

The head chief Eben Gazi is descended from the clan 
of al-Matalka. Until the year 1894 his authority was acknowl- 
edged by all the other clans. At that time ‘Ar‘ar eben GAzi, 
who was the great chief, resisted the advance of the Turkish 
Government and killed several soldiers. The Turks, there- 
upon resorting to stratagem, captured him, put him in prison 
at al-Kerak, and negotiated with the various chiefs who 
promised the captors support and gifts if they released “Ar‘ar. 
When ‘Ar‘ar was set free at the end of 1896, nobody would 
obey him. After his death in 1900 there arose dissension 
among his Hwetat. Each chief did what he pleased. The one 
having the greatest authority was Harb abu Tajeh — chief 
of the at-Tawajhe clan—who was joined by several families 
from the remaining clans who did not wish to pay tribute 
to the Turkish Government. Harb died in the year 1904 and 
his aged son Rbejje‘ became chief, but only in name, the 
real authority being exercised by Rbejje’s younger brother 
‘Awde, who, when Rbejje‘ died in 1907, was recognized as 
chief of all the Tawajhe and of the various clans encamping 
with them. 


‘AWDE ABU TAJEH 


‘“Awde was renowned far and hear for his courage, en- 
ergy, obduracy, and also for his cruelty. In 1902 when he 
was encamped near al-Morejjera he led a raid upon the tribe 
of Sararat at Abu ‘Amtd and returned laden with booty. 
The Sararat united and surrounded his camp. For seventeen 
days the women did not leave their tents. The Sararat were 
passionately exhorted to persistence by their leader, Da‘san 
eben Hems. The chief ‘Awde prayed: “O Allah, may Da‘san 
fall beneath my hand, that I may be able to drink his 
blood.” Da‘san fell, mortally wounded by Gwéred, a relative 
of ‘Awde. The latter flung himself upon his enemy, tore out 
his beating heart, and gulped his blood. Over three hundred 


8 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


men are said to have fallen on both sides and twenty-seven 
of ‘Awde’s kinsmen perished. Eye-witnesses described to me 
how ‘Awde on several occasions cut the heart from a wound- 
ed enemy and bit at it. 

I met this chief in the spring of 1909, when he was 
visiting the camp of Prince an-Ntri eben Sa‘lan at al-Hawéga. 
His hand had been injured by a gunshot and I cured the 
wound for him. He hated the Turkish Government, which, 
in 1908, issued a warrant against him for having shot two 
gendarmes who had been sent to arrest him because he had 
not paid tribute. ‘Awde assured me that the charge was a 
lie and that he had paid the tribute. He said that in 1906 
he had accompanied his brother to Ma‘an and that they had 
taken with them all the money collected for tribute, together 
with the proceeds of the sale of ten camels. At Ma‘an they 
deposited both wallets with the kddi* and the tax collector, 
asking them to calculate the amount due to them and to 
return the remainder. The Turkish officials took all the gold 
coins except seven and assured both the chief and his brother 
that everything was paid. The cautious ‘Awde wanted a re- 
ceipt, but the officials declared that it was just the time for 
the al-‘asr (afternoon) prayer and that they must go and pray. 
They departed and did not return again that day. On the 
following day the kddi fell ill and the tax collector went on 
a journey. ‘Awde and his brother waited at Ma‘an for sev- 
eral days, but the sick man grew no better and the tax 
collector did not return. Their friends in Ma‘an asserted that 
it was a matter of common knowledge that they had paid 
their tribute and promised that they would obtain a receipt 
for them as soon as the kddi recovered his health. Accord- 
ingly, the brothers departed to join their tribe and proceeded 
to their winter encampment in the at-Tubejk region. They 
did not return to Ma‘an until eight months later, but they 
found no receipt and discovered that both the officials had 
been transferred elsewhere. At the end of 1907 Rbejje* died 
and ‘Awde received an order to pay his arrears of tribute 
from 1905. When he did not obey this order, declaring that 
the tribute had been paid up to the end of 1906, two gen- 
darmes were sent to his camp near Ma‘an, early in the sum- 
mer of 1908, for the purpose of conveying him to the seat 


* Arabie terms (except botanical terms) not defined in the text are explained above, 
page xii. 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 9 


of Government. ‘Awde, afraid that he would be imprisoned, 
refused to go. One gendarme fired at him but missed his 
aim; whereupon both servants of the law were killed. Since 
then ‘Awde has avoided Ma‘an. 


DEPARTURE FROM MA‘AN 


On Thursday, May 26, 1910, at 3.45 P. M., we left the 
station of Ma‘an, traveling in a southeasterly direction. We 
were accompanied by the negroes Mhammad and Salem, 
whom ‘Awde abu Tajeh had sent to us with six camels, and 
by the gendarme Isma‘in. ‘Awde was encamped to the south- 
east of Ma‘an, on a plain which extends between the lowland 
of al-Gafar and the southeastern spur of aS-Sera’. We did 
not proceed to him by a direct route but by a detour along 
the foot of aS-Sera’, in order more easily to avoid the hostile 
bands patrolling the depression of al-Gafar. As the journey 
to ‘Awde’s camp was very dangerous, we were joined by 
fifteen settlers from Ma‘an and several Bedouins with cam- 
els, each animal carrying two men. 

Leaving the station on our right, we soon reached the 
well ‘Ajn al-Kalbe on the left slope of the broad se%b of 
the same name, which extends in an east-northeasterly direc- 
tion from Ma‘an. The se%b of al-Kalbe joins on the east with 
the seibdan of al-Hataba, ar-Ratami, Ab-al-Gerdam, and _ ar- 
Rwejgide, all of which converge on the lowland of al-Gafar. 

On the right slope of al-Hataba we saw about forty 
horsemen, chiefs of the clans of the Hwetat returning from 
Ma‘an, where they had gone to claim payment of the money 
which the Government owed them for the protection of pilgrims. 
Until the railway was constructed from Damascus to al-Me- 
dina, the tribes encamped along the Pilgrim Route used to 
protect the pilgrims, and for this service the Government paid 
them fees on a fixed scale, known as ma‘dse. After the rail- 
way was built the Government wished to abolish this pay- 
ment, but the tribes protested against the proposal and threat- 
ened to destroy the bridges and remove the rails. The more 
judicious chiefs pacified their companions and suggested that 
they should negotiate with the Government, and it was for 
this purpose that about forty of the Hwetat chiefs had pro- 
ceeded to Ma‘an to discuss matters with the kdj7makam. Being 
afraid that they might be attacked and slaughtered by Turkish 


10 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


troops, they had not entered the narrow streets of the set- 
tlement but had encamped on the slope opposite the Govern- 
ment building and had threatened to shoot everyone who 
entered or left the building until the kaymakam had paid what 
was due to them. The kajmakam pleaded that he was not in 
possession of so much money and asked them to be satisfied 
with a sum on account, offering to let them have the balance 
as soon as he could procure it from the provincial governor 
at Damascus. After negotiations which lasted for two days, 
the chiefs consented to accept a sum on account and to de- 
part. They promised, however, that they would return in 
greater numbers if the whole amount were not paid to them 
before the middle of July. 

At 4.48 P. M. we entered the broad channel of ‘Akejka, 
which passes through a rocky slope consisting of three hori- 
zontal layers. On the left we saw the railway embankment 
and to the north the yellow sides of the table-shaped ele- 
vation of al-Mamlah, where the peasants of Ma‘an dig for 
salt. The se%b of “Akejka begins to the southwest on the 
ridge of aS-Sera’, near the Roman camp of al-Karana, at a 
height of 1676 meters. The hilly region of Abu Hsejnan 
divides its head from the se%b of Taberijja, the lower part 
of which is known as al-Msawwal. At five o’clock we caught 
sight of a small white house with a red roof towards the south- 
east, the station of Abu Tarfa’. Almost in the same direction, 
but nearer to us, we saw the tree Umm ‘Ajjas, which, in 
the opinion of the pilgrims and settlers, is inhabited by a 
spirit. Then we crossed the small se%b of al-Gemagsem. Our 
camels were hungry and greedily searched for the perennials 
which grew here and there in the stony soil. Wishing to give 
the animals time to graze, we halted at 5.58 P. M. in the se%b 
of al-Msawwal, on the left slope of which workmen had broken 
stone for the construction of the railway track. 


THE LOWLAND OF AL-GAFAR 


Mounting the slope of the Se%b of al-Msawwal, we drew 
a map of the lowland of al-Gafar. The setting sun illuminated 
the yellow hillside which sinks down towards the lowland. The 
separate channels, partly obscured by shadows, resembled dark 
bands and were plainly visible. 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 11 


North of the se%b of ar-Rwejgide, the se%b of az-Zersi runs into 
the lowland of al-Gafar. This latter Seb takes its origin in the Se‘ibdn 
of Ab-al-Hamam, al-Béza (al-Béza being formed by the junction of the 
Seibdn of Negel and ad-Da‘ganijje), and, last of all, al-Kalat. Farther to the 
east rose the dark slopes of RwéSed ar-Rawjan and Rwésed al-‘Atsan, 
which run from the tabular hill of al-Burma. Eastward from al-Burma 
could be seen the shining hills of asS-Shejba, in which the se‘vbdn of 
Mdejfa‘at and Abu Tlejha have their origin. Behind as-Shejba are the 
heads of the seibdn of ‘Ajrijje, Abu Sarawil, Riglet al-Hrak, and al- 
Kzejme. From the east proceed the sewbdn of aS-Sdmeri, Radejrat Zajed, 
al-Rwejr, al-‘Arfa’, and finally al-‘Adrijjat, separating the hills of Wad- 
‘at aS-Shaba’ from Wad‘at al-Hamra’ and a3-Swéhet.® 

To the northeast, between the sevban of ‘Akejka and al-Gemagem, 
there extends in a northeasterly direction a series of isolated hills called 
at-Twérén, the last remnants of a stratum which has disappeared through 
the action of wind and rain. In the plain, the se7tb of al-Msawwal joins 
with the se%b of “Akejka, with the united se“ban of Umm Raza’ and Abu 
Dims, and still farther on with the Se‘tb of a-Sidijje, which rises near 
the pass al-Hdejb. On the right bank of the lower portion of the last- 
named se%b is situated a group of yellowish elevations called al-Kbejda, 
which form the southern border of the actual lowland of al-Gafar. 


ABU TARFA’ TO ‘ASUS ABU RADIR 


At 7.31 P. M. we again took up our march. The soldiers 
guarding the station of Abu Tarfa’ heard our voices and shot 
at us twice, thinking that we wished to attack them. The 
Bedouins creep round the railway stations under cover of 
night, fling themselves upon the soldiers, rob them of their 
arms and ammunition, and vanish before the victims can re- 
cover from their surprise. The garrison at Abu Tarfa’ had 
already been attacked and robbed in this manner on two 
occasions and was on the alert. 

At 8.22 we reached the railway track, which projected 
about thirty centimeters above the plain. It was not easy to 
persuade our camels to cross the rails. They became frightened 
at the unexpected sight and fled to right and left, so that 
we were finally compelled to dismount and force them across 
one by one. We continued in the same direction at a rapid 
pace through Satnet umm Raza and Abu Dims. Camels pro- 
ceed at night more rapidly and steadily than by day, espe- 


> These two Wad‘a hills and their neighborhood recall the region of Mawdt‘, which 
Jakut (1224 A. D.), Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 4, p. 678, and Abu-l-Farag al-Isfahani (Ardni 
[Balak, 1285 A. H.], Vol. 9, pp. 148—149) locate in the territory of the Beni Murra belonging 
to the tribe of Ratafan. It was there that the valiant warrior Hirm ibn Demdem al-Murri used 
to dwell. — The surrounding district of al-Wad‘a once belonged to the Beni Murra, the 
warrior’s kindred. In the poem quoted, the name was changed to Mawdit‘ for the sake of the 
preceding rhyme, hugi‘. 


12 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


cially if they are passing over a plain where they need not 
avoid stones. At 9.52 we arrived at the Se%b of a8-Sidijje, in 
the hollow of which we encamped, now being north of the 
railway station of Bir aS-Sidijje (or Bir aS-Sedijje). 

On Friday, May 27, 1910, after a peaceful night, we set 
out at 4.15 A.M. in a southeasterly direction through a re- 
gion covered with coarse sand of a dark-gray, almost black, 
color and cut by numerous twisting sevbdan, broad but shallow. 
These watercourses are the only places in which annuals and 
perennials can thrive. But the valleys are not entirely covered 
with plants, and it is only in their lower portions that one 
can observe clumps of various kinds of vegetation. Here and 
there bushes and low talh® trees project above the brushwood. 

At 5.30 A.M. we crossed the Se%b of al-Makmi and im- 
mediately afterwards ‘ASaS abu Radir. To the east we spied 
a rider on a camel. Scarcely had the negro Salem caught sight 
of him when he called to one of the Bedouins who were accom- 
panying us. Whereupon they threw aside their outer garments, 
loaded their rifles, and started off in pursuit of the unknown 
rider. Seeking cover among the high slopes, they endeavoured 
to cut him off. The rider, observing us, came to a moment- 
ary standstill, but immediately afterwards disappeared not 
far from a high pile of stones heaped upon the hill above, 
which indicated the position of the well of al-Marmak. After 
a short interval we again caught sight of the man fleeing from 
Salem and his companion. When they caught up with him Salem 
flung him from his camel and rode up to us with the captured 
animal. It was 6.08 A. M. when he returned. After a while 
the plundered rider came running up to us and asked for his 
camel. He was a Sarari, or member of the tribe of Sararat, 
which occupies the inhospitable territory north of the oasis 
of Tejma. As the Sararat cannot obtain enough sustenance in 
their own territory, they associate with the tribes of the Hwetat, 
Beni Sahr, and especially with the Rwala, to whom they pay 
tribute. No one holds them in great esteem, and the Bedouins 
number them among the dishonorable Arab tribes. Salem, being 
the negro of a chief, only laughed at the Sarari and refused 
to return his camel to him. When I urged Salem not to torment 
the poor fellow any more, he declared that he would restore 
the camel to its owner but not until he reached the chief’s 


6 Latin equivalents and brief characterizations of many Arabic botanical terms ap- 
pearing in the text are given in the index. 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 13 


camp. He would ride there on it and would lend his own camel to 
his acquaintance, a settler from Ma‘an, who had been proceed- 
ing on foot. The Sarari made no objection to this arrangement, 
happy in the thought that he would not lose his animal. From 
6.08 to 7.85 our camels grazed (temperature: 16.8° C). 

The negro Mhammad recounted to me how the chief ‘Awde 
abu Tajeh had plundered the Sararat early in May. During 
the rainy season he had been encamped with his clans at Tubejk 
al-Hamar and Tubejk al-‘Afar; that is, in the territory which 
belongs to the Sararat, with whom he was on the most friendly 
terms. When all the ponds of rain water dried up at the end 
of April, “‘Awde with his Hwetat proceeded northward into his 
own territory. The Sararat, who had been his friends hither- 
to, desired to go with him, but ‘Awde attacked one of their 
divisions, robbed it of all its herds, and proclaimed war on 
the whole tribe. When I remarked that I should not have ex- 
pected such conduct from ‘Awde, Mhammad replied: “The Sara- 
rat are our magazine, mahzan, which we empty whenever we 
please. If we want war, then we have war with them, if we 
want peace, then we force them to make peace.”’ At the time 
of my journey several clans of the Sararat had remained at 
at-Tubejk; others had made their way to the se%b of Hedreg 
and the depression of Sirhan, whence they were making in- 
roads into the territory of the Hwetat, robbing the latter 
of their flocks. 


THE HWETAT, THE BENI SAHR, AND THE TURKISH 
GOVERNMENT 


The majority of the Hwétat clans were encamped between 
Ma‘an and al-Bsejra—that is west of the railway — and only three 
clans with ‘Awde abu Tajeh were still grazing their herds south- 
east of Ma‘an. Even they were already on the march west- 
ward to the territory of the settlers who till the soil, where 
they desired to obtain grain necessary for themselves and their 
horses. Within the next fourteen to twenty days they wished 
to strike out toward the southwest and west of Ma‘an, so that 
after that time the region between Ma‘an and the depression 
of Sirhan would be stripped of all camps and would form the 
seat of war between the Hwetat and their enemies. The latter 
included the Beni Sahr as well as the Sararat. The Beni Sahr 
and the Hwétat have no strictly defined frontiers, and when 


14 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


in the territory of the settlers both tribes often lay claim to 
the same settlements and exact payment from the same settlers. 
This proceeding generally results in skirmishes. The Turkish 
Government many times endeavored to reconcile the two 
tribes. At the time of the harvest, when they were both en- 
camped in the territory of the settlers, the governor would 
summon the chiefs and exhort them to make peace, threat- 
ening that he would not pay the money due to them for 
the protection of pilgrims until peace was concluded. Several 
chiefs of the Beni Sahr and the Hwétat would proceed to 
the mutasarref at al-Kerak and agree to everything that 
he demanded; whereupon the authorities at Damascus and 
Constantinople would be informed that peace had been con- 
cluded between the tribes encamped along the Pilgrim Route. 
But this peace concluded by the Government did not last long. 
The Bedouins would say: “We did not conclude peace of our 
own free will, but it was the Government who forced us to do 
so (ad-dowle aslahatna),’ and would continue merrily to steal 
the flocks. Then the Hwetat would send a message to the muta- 
sarref: “To please the Government we concluded peace with 
the Beni Sahr, but they are disturbing the peace (amm beni 
sahr klobow).” The chiefs of the Beni Sahr would directly 
contradict their enemies and lay all the blame on the Hwetat. 

As the Hwetat were waging war both with the Beni 
Sahr and with the Sararat and Sammar, who were encamped 
northeast, east, and southeast of Ma‘an, it was clear that 
I should not be able to use Chief ‘Awde’s camp as a start- 
ing point from which to explore the territory of as-Sawwan, 
which extends between al-Gafar and the depression of Sir- 
han. As our only guide would in that case have belonged to 
the Hwetat, we should have fallen a prey to one of the 
enemy marauding parties; in which case we might have lost 
not only all our equipment but our lives as well. Mhammad 
comforted me, saying: “Do not be afraid, Chief. If Allah is 
well disposed to thee, thou wilt not perish (elja hajjark allah 
RAT OURS Be! 


ABU RTEJMAT TO ‘AWDE’S CAMP 


At 8 A. M. we crossed the combined Se%b of Abu Rtej- 
mat and of Abu ‘Alejdijjat and ascended a slight elevation 
that divides this channel from that of the Abu ‘Amid val- 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 15 


ley. At 8.28 we caught sight of a large troop of riders mount- 
ed on camels, proceeding from the north in a westerly di- 
rection. We at once forced our camels to their knees and 
watched the riders. But they were not visible from the ground, 
and it was impossible to keep our binoculars steady when 
we were in the saddle as the focus changed at the least 
movement of the camels. We therefore urged our mounts on, 
doing our utmost to reach the se%b of Abu ‘Amid as quickly 
as possible. There we should have a better chance of con- 
cealing ourselves from the strange riders who we feared 
might be a troop of the Sararat on the lookout for herds 
belonging to the Hwetat. 

We remained in Abu ‘Amtd until nine o’clock. The se%b 
begins under the name of al-MSas in the territory of al- 
Kdtr near the pilgrims’ station Kal‘a Fas06‘a, and it joins 
with the se%b of al-Makmi near the rain wells of al-Marmak, 
and lower down with aSs-Sidijje on the left and al-Math on 
the right. It forms the border of the al-Kbejda hills and ends 
at the wells Kulban al-Gafar. An old road runs along the 
right side of the lower part of this se%b, past the rain 
wells of al-Marmak to the wells Kulban al-Gafar and con- 
tinues northward between the se%b of “Ajrijje and that of 
Abu Tlejha.‘ 

At 9.20 A. M. we sighted a grove of talh trees on the 
north, with the rain wells of al-Marmak close by. These wells 
are about two meters deep and hold water for two to three 
years following a heavy rain. North of al-Marmak rise the 
tabular hillocks, al-Kbejda, which, enveloped by vapors, re- 
sembled a big isolated tent. 

We were now passing through the plain of a&-Subejée, 
which is covered with coarse, brown gravel, in which a good 
rain helps the plant semh to thrive. Semh, which grows thickly 
and has a short but very disjointed root topped with an umbel 
as wide as a human palm, never exceeds four centimeters in 
height. The small sprigs and leaves are yellowish green, soft, 
gelatinous; the blossoms, tiny and white. The Sararat, Beni 
Sahr, and the inhabitants of the oasis of al-Gowf gather the 
ripe semh into bags, and when these are filled they beat them 

7 Abu Sama, Rawdatejn (Cairo, 1287-1288 A. H.), Vol. 2, p. 6, writes that as long as 
the Crusaders held sway at al-Kerak the journey from Syria to Egypt was made by way of 
Bosra, al-Azrak, al-Gafar, and Ajla. — Bosra is a well-known town in the southern Hawran; 
al-Azrak, a fortress at the northern end of the depression of Sirhan; Ajla, a harbor on the Red 


Sea, now known as al-‘Akaba. From its situation, the old al-Gafar must be identical with 
our al-Gafar. 


16 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


with sticks and stones to separate the seed pods. Then, shak- 
ing the bags till the pods fall to the bottom, they remove 
the husks, throw the seeds into some rain pool, and wait pa- 
tiently for the moisture to open the pods, thereby causing 
the seed to drop out. Throwing away the now worthless pods, 
they pick out the seeds, which they dry and preserve for 
food. The seeds are eaten either roasted or boiled; they are 
also ground into flour for bread. 

At 10.49 we crossed the head 
of the se%b of al-Math, where talh 
trees grow plentifully. The terebinth 
and sidr, on the other hand, will not 
thrive southeast of Ma‘an. At 12.35 
P. M. we rode across the water- 
course, Ammu Mil, which rises in 
the southwest from the long hill- 
side al-Cabd that stretches south- 
eastward. This hillside forms the 
watershed between the plains of al- 
TOD eT hese mentor Abe Gafar on the north and of as-Sabha 

“AgAarem. or Sabha Sorar on the south. From 

1.10 to 2.35 we rested in the se%b 

of al-Gehdanijje, where our camels found good pasture in 

some of the low spots. These spots are called rowze by the 

Hwetat, while they give the name of hamdd to bare gray sur- 
faces (temperature: 30°C). 

At 3.28 we perceived on our left a dolmen about two 
meters high, known as Abu ‘Agarem, rising above a large 
artificial reservoir (Fig. 2). Before long we saw a number 
of tents to the east, two of which were supported by two 
main poles, whereas the remainder rested on one pole only. 
The small triangular tents are called hardbis, while the tent 
with two or more main poles is known as bejt. 

The negro Mhammad at once informed me that the 
tents must belong either to members of the Sararat or the 
Beni ‘Atijje, as the Hweétat have no hardbis tents. For sev- 
eral years the Beni ‘Atijje have lived at peace with the 
Hwetat, and their head chief Harb eben ‘Atijje was a faith- 
ful friend of “Awde abu Tajeh. Mhammad added that he be- 
lieved that we saw before us the camp of a Beni ‘Atijje 
clan. Nor was he wrong. On asking for news of Chief ‘Awde, 
we were informed that he was camping somewhere near 








MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 17 


the seib of al-Mnawah, if he had not already proceeded 
farther on to the rain pond Habra Minwa’. 

Changing our direction somewhat to the east-northeast, 
we hurried over a bare, undulating plain covered with coarse 
eravel until we reached the se%b in question. At about five 
o’clock we perceived on a broad elevation a long row of black 
spots which vanished for a while in the brown atmospheric 
layer and then reappeared. Gradually these spots increased 
in size, remained more firmly in their places, and were trans- 
formed into a row of tents. It was the camp of ‘Awde abu 
Tajeh. Mhammad recognized the chief’s tent from afar and 
we made our way towards it. 


AT THE CAMP OF ‘AWDE ABU TAJEH 


Several men came out of their tents and stared at us 
inquisitively. The chief’s tent was open towards the east, so 
the men’s division was located in its southern portion as the 
men’s division is always to the right. Turning towards it, 
we rode round the long tent ropes and ordered our camels 
to kneel at about thirty paces south of the tent. “‘Awde, ac- 
companied by several younger chiefs, came towards me, em- 
braced and kissed me, and led me into his tent, where he 
assigned me to the place of honor north of the fire near the 
partition that divides the men’s and women’s quarters. I sat 
down on a small rug and rested my left arm on a pile of 
small cushions. ‘Awde sat at my right on a long carpet which 
was spread out alongside the back wall of the tent. My two 
companions, Tuman and Rif‘at, sat on the carpet with him. 
Our baggage was left outside, in care of the servant Serif. 

The tent was crowded with more than fifty persons who 
greeted me one by one. When the greetings were concluded, 
“Awde beckoned to a negro who was boiling coffee and tea 
over the fire, whereupon we were each served three times 
with several drops of black coffee and a cup of sweetened 
tea. Just then a rifle shot resounded behind the camp, caus- 
ing all the youths present to leap up, arms in hand, and 
rush out in the direction of the shot. After a while they re- 
turned, announcing that there was no trouble, the shot hav- 
ing been fired by a mischievous herdsman. I was surprised 
to see that each man had a cartridge belt slung around his 
body and that even when they were sitting in the tent they 


18 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


all kept their rifles in their hands. The chief himself wore 
two cartridge belts which contained about a hundred and 
forty rounds of ammunition. Later I discovered that ‘Awde 
and his men were fearful that they would be attacked by a 
kindred clan with whom they had had some dispute on the pre- 
vious Wednesday. Returning from a raid, a relative of “Awde 
had stolen a camel from a Sarari, a protege of another rel- 
ative. The plundered Sarari hastened to his protector and 
asked him to have the lost animal restored. But all endeavors 
proved vain. It was impossible to recover the stolen camel. 
The protector then lodged a charge against his kinsmen with 
the judges of the Hwéetat tribe, and they decided that the 
camel was to be restored immediately to the Sarari. But 
“Awde’s kinsmen would not comply with the court’s decree. 
Thereupon ‘Awde called together his negroes and cousins, 
proceeded to the tent of his obstinate relative, and requested 
him to return the camel at once, as he would otherwise take 
it by force. The relative and his family began to abuse and 
threaten the chief and his companions: a shot was fired and 
one of those accompanying the chief fell dead to the ground. 
‘Awde fired his rifle, inflicting a mortal wound on his re- 
lative’s son. Further fighting was prevented by the more 
prudent men, who surrounded both parties and urged them 
to make peace. One of ‘Awde’s negroes led the stolen camel 
away and returned it to the Sarari. As one man had been 
killed on either side, the score was even; but the relative 
from whom the camel had been taken declared that he would 
not endure such injustice and departed with his whole clan 
to the settlement of Ma‘an in order to seek help against 
‘Awde. As ‘Awde did not know whether his offended relatives 
with other opponents would attack him, he commanded his 
men to equip themselves and set up a guard all around his 
camp. Only about fifty tents were left with him, but in 
case of danger he hoped to receive assistance from his friend, 
the chief Harb eben ‘Atijje, who was encamped not far off. 

Toward evening, when the camels had returned from the 
pasture, “Awde ordered a fat old she-camel (fdter) to be 
slaughtered in our honor. The evening meal was not ready 
until midnight. The boiled camel’s flesh was heaped up on a 
Shallow dish one meter in diameter and filled with rice. Four 
slaves brought the dish in and placed it before me. ‘Awde 
invited me, my European friends, and three other chiefs 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 19 


to commence eating. A young slave poured a little water on 
the fingers of our right hands, we drew around the dish, sat 
down on our left heels, took up the rice with pieces of meat, 
and with three fingers of our right hands kneaded it into 
mouthfuls which we swallowed almost without chewing. Our 
native companions thrust into their mouths pieces of food 
larger than hens’ eggs and after about four minutes had 
eaten their fill and, holding their right hands over the dish, 
waited for us to satisfy our hunger. As soon as we had fin- 
ished, we all rose and went to our places. Rif‘at and Taman, 
my European companions, whispered to me that they were 
hungry. After us, ‘Awde invited the second row, then the 
third; and when the meat and rice were eaten up he had 
the dish filled for the fourth time, so that nothing remained 
of the whole camel save a mere heap of bones, which were 
gnawed at by some of the poor Sararat. After midnight we 
left the tent and went to our baggage, where we lay down 
to rest. 


RIDE TOWARD HABRA MINWA’ 


Early on Sunday morning, May 28, 1910, ‘Awde brought 
me two camels, and, shortly after, the other chiefs also ar- 
rived with camels, so that we were supplied with a sufficient 
number of animals for mounts and as baggage carriers. ‘Awde 
informed me that we should proceed in a northerly direction 
in order to approach the rain pond Habra Minwa’. The Hwetat 
struck their tents, loaded them on the camels, and waited for 
the chief. Almost all the other tents were already disposed 
of, but his still remained untouched. Though ‘Awde shouted 
abusive words at his slaves, no one listened to him, so he was 
finally reduced to pulling out the poles and rolling up the 
tent himself. He was then joined by his people, who packed 
up his supplies and tent; at 5.30 we moved off. 

There was no order on the march. Each one rode or 
drove his camel however and wherever he wished. ‘Awde was 
continually avoiding the pack camels, turning off first to the 
right and then to the left in order to keep clear of the throng. 
At first I rode with him, as I wished to discuss various mat- 
ters; but we had scarcely begun to talk before some ragged 
servant or herdsman would thrust his camel between us, fol- 
lowed by a second and a third rider, compelling us to ride 


20 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


round them in order to rejoin each other. The same thing 
happened to the other chiefs who joined ‘Awde. 


FAWZAN ON THE HWETAT 


Seeing that it would be impossible during the march to 
talk to ‘Awde undisturbed, I joined a camel merchant named 
Fawzan as-Sabek, who was followed by his servants driving 
more than two hundred animals that he had purchased. This 
herd, as well as the servants, protected us from the trouble- 
some Hwetat. 

Fawzan, a man about forty years of age, had a good- 
natured, dark face, with expressive eyes, and he conducted 
himself very quietly and modestly. He had bought the camels 
on behalf of an acquaintance of mine, the rich camel-dealer 
Mhammad eben Bassam, by whom he had been warmly re- 
commended to me. When I expressed my surprise that the 
Hwetat observed no order either in camp or on the march, 
Fawzan said that the Hwetat were not genuine camel-breed- 
ers but that they belonged to the Ahl ad-Dire, who breed 
sheep and goats, and that, in fact, many of them were mere 
tillers of the soil. The Hwétat, he declared, had no head 
chief, so that any chief who was in charge of more than 
ten tents acted in complete independence, declared war, and 
concluded peace with whom he liked, regardless of the other 
clans and families. This independence was supported by the 
Turkish Government in the case of all the tribes encamped 
along the railway between Damascus and the Hegaz, as the 
authorities considered that it was easier to subjugate scat- 
tered tribes and mutually warring clans, than if they were 
subordinated to a single head chief. But this policy was not 
altogether correct; for if any move was set on foot against 
the Government, all the scattered clans would unite at once 
and rally round the chief who happened to be acting against 
the Government. If, on the other hand, the Government wished 
to obtain something from the tribes, desiring, for example, 
to count their herds so as to fix the amount of their taxes, 
or if it was searching for flocks stolen from the settlers, it 
had nobody to support and assist it in carrying out its in- 
tentions. There was no head tribal chief, and the numerous 
petty chiefs would take flight with their flocks, or join the 
chiefs of neighboring tribes who were under no obligation 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 21 


to keep watch on them or to supply the Government with 
reports concerning them. Thus the Government never suc- 
ceeded in achieving what it set out to do. Of course, it would 
call upon this or that chief, enjoining him to collect taxes 
on his herds or to find out what had become of stolen flocks; 
but in such cases the chief generally would plead disobe- 
dience on the part of his subordinates, or would announce 
that they had left him and that he did not even know where 
they were encamped. These statements were true and could 
be corroborated by numerous witnesses. In the autumn, when 
these tribes used to penetrate more deeply into the desert, 
they would again rally round their chief and remain with 
him until the end of May or the beginning of June. Then 
they would return to the frontier of the cultivated territory 
under Government jurisdiction, separating and scattering 
again in order to evade the governmental demands. During 
this season they would rob and plunder in the villages sub- 
ordinated to the Government. The peasants who had been 
robbed often enough recognized the plunderer and reported 
him to the Government, which would then send his chief a 
written order that the culprit be produced immediately with 
his booty. But the chief, supported by witnesses, would as- 
sert that the culprit was not encamped with him and that 
he did not know where he was to be found. Meantime, the 
lawbreaker had packed up his tent and departed with his 
booty to join another chief, to whom he would give a share 
of the plunder remaining with him, safe in the knowledge 
that he would not be reported. Even when a whole tribe 
engaged in a raid on Government territory, the Government 
was unable to discover the culprits. 

In March, 1908, a band of the Hwetat attacked the large 
settlement of Salamja, situated southeast of Hama’, and made 
off with about twenty horses and a hundred and sixty camels. 
All these animals were branded with the mark of the inhab- 
itants of Salamja, yet the Government was unable to dis- 
cover a single one of them. The victims complained to the 
Government that they had been robbed by the Hwetat, who 
were under the control of the chiefs ‘Awde abu Tajeh and 
‘Ar‘ar eben Gazi. The Government requested the two chiefs 
to restore the stolen animals and then sought to imprison 
them; but both ‘Ar‘ar and ‘Awde were able to prove that 
they had not taken part in the raid. ‘Ar‘ar had been detained 


22 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


at the settlement of Ma‘an at that ‘particular time, and ‘Awde 
produced twenty witnesses, all of whom swore that the chief 
had not left his camp either in February or March, 1908. 
The kagymakam at Ma‘an therefore informed the authorities 
at Damascus that he could punish neither ‘Awde nor ‘Ar‘ar 
for what had been done by other chiefs who, moreover, were 
recognized by the Government as independent and not ac- 
countable to the two leaders accused. The inhabitants of Sal- 
amja sent four men into the environs of Ma‘an to find out 
which chiefs were looking after the animals stolen from them. 
The investigators reported five petty chiefs to the Govern- 
ment at Ma‘an, but the chiefs mentioned did not put in an 
appearance, preferring to proceed farther into the desert. In 
the summer of 1909 two men from Salamja were again stay- 
ing at Ma‘an and reiterated their complaints. In reply to a 
fresh summons by the kajymakam, the accused chiefs arrived 
with numerous witnesses, who all asserted that they had, 
indeed, had the stolen camels with them, but that these 
animals did not belong to them, being the property of stran- 
gers who were now encamped somewhere with the Beni ‘Atijje 
or with the Sararat. So the inhabitants of Salamja did not 
recover a single horse or a single camel. Yet I personally 
bought from Fawzan a young she-camel which bore the mark 
of the settlers at Salamja, and I was informed that in ‘Awde’s 
camp there were twenty-eight such camels and six horses. 
The Hwetat laughed not only at the foolish settlers of Sal- 
amja, but also at the unwise Government. If the Hwetat had 
had a single head chief and the Government had effectively 
supported him, he could have controlled the chiefs under him 
and thus preserved order. But he would, of course, have had 
to stand in awe of the Government, knowing that obedience 
would be forced from him if he did not fulfill its wishes 
voluntarily. 


EBEN SA‘UD AND EBEN RASID 


From the autumn of 1909 to March, 1910, Fawzan had 
been residing in the Neégd, in the territory of the Princes Eben 
Saud and Eben Rasid. He explained that during the last 
few years there had been very little rain in the region of 
Eben Sa‘ud, in consequence of which expeditions against 
Prince Sa‘ud eben RaSid had suffered. During the last rainy 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA : 23 


season Prince ‘Abdal‘aziz eben Sa‘tid had been encamped 
within the area of al-Hasa. The minister, Zamel eben Sub- 
han, regent for Sa‘td eben RasSid who had not yet attained 
his majority, had concluded peace with Prince ‘Abdal‘aziz and 
had established his authority among the Sammar and among 
the inhabitants of the various settlements in their territory, 
especially in the town of Hajel. In the environs of this town 
and, in fact, in the whole territory belonging to the Sammar, 
there had been a great abundance of rain during the last 
two years, so that there had been a great increase in the 
prosperity of the Sammar; and many of the smaller tribes 
who owed their allegiance to Eben Sa‘id had joined the 
Sammar for the simple reason that they sought pastures for 
their flocks. Many of the orthodox Moslems are said to have 
regarded the lack of rain in the territory of Eben Sa‘td as a 
punishment sent from Allah because Eben Sa‘td’s followers 
had joined the unbelievers and slaughtered the faithful child- 
ren of Mohammed. Fawzan declared that ‘Abdal‘aziz eben 
Saad would not be content until he had driven out Eben 
Rasid and occupied all the latter’s territory, including the 
town of Hajel. This would be an act of revenge, as Mhammad 
eben RaSid had once expelled ‘Abdal‘aziz’s father, ‘Abdar- 
rahman, from his residence at ar-Rijad and had established 
his deputy, or ‘dmel, there. The deputies of Eben Rasid had 
resided at ar-Rijad until the year 1902. 

At the end of 1901, Prince ‘Abdal‘aziz rode out from the 
town of al-Kwejt, where he had been dwelling with his father, 
‘Abdarrahman. Accompanied by an escort of ten, he found 
adherents among the ‘Agman tribe, which was encamped in 
al-Hasa, and with them advanced toward ar-Rijad, where his 
ancestors had formerly resided. The inhabitants of this town 
hated ‘Aglan, the representative of Eben RasSsid, and longed 
for the return of the old ruling family. ‘Abdal‘aziz pitched 
his camp at a point about two hours’ journey from the town 
and, when night fell, led his men on foot under cover of 
darkness to the gardens. There he was awaited by the citi- 
zens who were favorably disposed towards him. They led him 
from the gardens into the town and after midnight they at- 
tacked the citadel which was the residence of ‘Aglan, whom 
they slaughtered with his friends. After the fall of the town 
of ar-Rijad, nearly all the remaining settlements acknowl- 
edged ‘Abdal‘aziz as their ruler, and in a short time he was 


24 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


joined also by the Mtejr tribe. In the spring of 1906 Eben 
Rasid undertook a great raid on this tribe, attacked several 
of its camps, and drove away a goodly number of its herds. 
But just at that time Prince Eben Sa‘td was resting with 
a large body of troops only about two hours’ journey from 
the encampments which had been attacked; and he set out 
in pursuit of ‘Abdal‘aziz eben Rasid, who had started home 
with the booty. Overtaking his quarry, the pursuer ordered 
a small band to attack the raider and then to flee. The ruse 
was successful. Eben RaSid, who began to pursue the attack- 
ing band, was waylaid by Eben Sa‘td, completely surrounded, 
and slaughtered with all his men. After their leader’s death 
domestic warfare arose between the members of Eben Rasid’s 
tribes, and Eben Sa‘id took advantage of this to establish 
and extend his authority. 


AT ‘AWDBP’S CAMP NEAR HABRA MINWA’ 


While Fawzan was telling me of these events we were 
proceeding along a slightly undulating plain covered with coarse 
sand of a dark gray color, where grass and perennials grew 
only upon a few patches of hollow ground. The grass was al- 
ready parched, but the perennials were luxuriantly green. The 
watercourses are very broad and shallow and in places they al- 
most disappear. At 8.10 A.M. we reached a large patch of low 
ground thickly covered with perennials; and from all sides the 
Hwetat raised a clamor, demanding that ‘Awde should encamp 
there. I was surprised at this, for the Rwala never would have 
dared to shout at Prince an-Nuri or to decide when and where 
he was to pitch his camp. In reply to the shouting, ‘Awde 
announced that he would encamp by the rain pond of Minwa’, 
so as to have water close at hand; but his Hwétat increased 
their din and, when he refused to come to a standstill, they 
urged their camels to kneel down, flung the tents to the ground, 
shouting to their chief that he could ride on as far as he 
liked, but that they would encamp there. At 8.20 ‘Awde also 
halted and the Hwétat made a new encampment. 

‘Awde came up behind me, sat down at my side, and we 
began to discuss the best way for me to reach the oasis of 
Tejma. But after a short while we were surrounded by about 
a hundred men and boys, who one after another asked all kinds 
of questions, threw my baggage and equipment into disorder, 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 25 


and annoyed me by their obtrusiveness, until they heard the 
noise of the mortar in which a negro was crushing roasted 
coffee grains. This sound, so dear to every nomad, freed me 
from their unwelcome attentions. Forming a long line, they 
made their way into the tent, and those who could find no 
room inside sat down near the entrance, glad of an oppor- 
tunity even to smell the fragrance of the coffee, although the 
slave did not pour out a drop for them. 

At noon ‘Awde invited me to proceed with him to a point 
about fifty paces from the tent and shouted orders that no- 
body was to come near us. Squatting down, we began to talk 
about my journey. In ‘Awde’s opinion it was not possible to 
visit either Bajer or al-Hawsa. There were wells of spring 
water at both of these places, which were consequently the 
most important centers of water supply between the depres- 
sions of Sirhan and al-Gafar. Raiding bands proceeding from 
west to east, or vice versa, visit these wells. During the rainy 
season, when all the rain ponds are full of water so that the 
nomads can obtain a supply anywhere and need not search 
for wells of spring water, it is possible to explore the envi- 
rons of Bajer and al-Hawsa without great danger. But in sum- 
mer, when the rain ponds are dried up and every marauder 
is anxious to reach these wells, it is extremely dangerous to 
remain in their vicinity. The danger is all the greater when 
the surrounding tribes are waging war against each other, 
because then the bands of raiders never pass by the wells. 

‘Awde explained that near al-Hawsa there are long under- 
ground passages called al-Kelwa. The entrance is very narrow, 
but the passages increase in breadth, so that they can be trav- 
ersed comfortably. ‘Awde said that when he was there he 
had carried a taper and his companions had lighted small 
bundles of dry brushwood, this illumination enabling them to 
penetrate the crooked underground passages for quite a long 
distance. One of these passages, he informed me, is several 
hundred paces long and consists of numerous spacious galleries, 
in the walls of which there are small recesses similar to berths. 
In some places it seems as if the walls had been artificially 
hewn out, although elsewhere they are rugged and rough. 
More to the south of al-Kelwa ‘Awde had seen three ruined 
towers (burg).° 


8 Jakat, Mu'gam (Wistenfeld), Vol. 2, pp. 179 and 361, states that Hawsa’ is situated 
between Wadi al-Kura’ and the settlement of Tebtik. The Prophet is said to have encamped 


26 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


I learnt from ‘Awde that for the past four months a Turk- 
ish garrison consisting of seven gendarmes had been sta- 
tioned in the oasis of Tejma. Tejma had formerly belonged 
to the domain of Eben Rasid, whose representative had re- 
sided there and kept order not only in the settlement itself, 
but also in the surrounding district, since the Fukara’ and 
al-Ajde clans of the Weld ‘Ali tribe of this neighborhood had 
paid tribute to Eben RaSid. When Eben RaSid’s power was 
overthrown, the Fukara’ and al-Ajde drove out his represent- 
ative and harassed the settlers. The latter sent a petition 
to Damascus, asking the Turkish Government to protect them; 
which the Government was able to do as far as the Fukara’ 
and al- Ajde were concerned, because both these clans were 
in the habit of encamping by the railway and used to obtain 
supplies, clothing, and money from the Government, upon which 
they were thus dependent. Their territory is very unproductive 
and they cannot provide themselves with grain and clothing 
except from Syria, hence from regions that were entirely under 
the control of the Turkish régime. If the Government had 
barred their access to Syria they would have died of hunger. 
As a result of a decree from Constantinople seven gendarmes 
were sent to the oasis of Tejma and later a strong military 
garrison was to be transferred there. I was anxious to pro- 
ceed from ‘Awde’s camp direct to Tejma in order to explore 
the regions of Tubejz al-‘Afar and Tubejz al-Hamar, as well 
as the oasis of Tejma itself and especially the burial ground 
of Zel° al-Rnejm. I therefore asked ‘Awde whether I might 
find a reliable guide in his camp. ‘Awde replied that there 
was in the camp a Fezir, or member of the clan of the Fu- 
kara’, who was well acquainted with the whole region and 
who could guide me safely. But he drew my attention to the 
fact that between the territory of the Fukara’ and his camp 
extended the regions belonging to the Sararat and Beni “Atijje, 





there on his march to TebGk, and in consequence a mosque of the same name was erected 
at the upper end of the passage of al-Hawsa’, the Mesged du al- Gife standing at the lower 
end of it. Ibn Ishak (died 768 A. D.) calls this place Hawda’. 

In his deseription Jakut is certainly thinking of our al-Hawsa’, although his Wadi al- 
Kura’ is either the famous southern WAdi al- Kura’, in which the maoder n settlement of al-‘Ela’ 
is situated, or the northern WaAadi al-Kura’ with the settlement of Dimat al-Gandal. It i is note- 
worthy that not a single mosque is recorded on the Prophet’s journey to Damat al-Gandal. 
Whether Mohammed actually reached our al-Hawsa’ on his march to Tebak or to Dtimat al- 
Gandal, it is impossible to prove; but this Hawsa’ is situated on the important junction of 
the routes from Syria to al-Medina and from Egypt to Irak, and it is possible that the mosque 
was erected there and dedicated to the Prophet. The mosque of Du al-Gife is perhaps identical 
with the ruins near Morejrat al-Fater, where ends the valley which one traverses on the 
way to_the wells of al-Hawsa’. Near Morejrat al-Fater the se%baén of Umm Girfejn and 
Ammu Gifejn come together, and their names perhaps contain the primitive sound of the 
word Gife. 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 27 


from whom I should have to take a guide as well. He added 
that he was expecting a visit from the chief Harb eben ‘Atijje 
with whom I could discuss the matter. ; 

In the afternoon I was informed by the servant Serif that 
some of the Hwetat were demanding payment for the camels 
which ‘Awde had sent to Ma‘an for us. Mhammad, ‘Awde’s 
negro, claimed that all these camels belonged to the chief, who 
had received various gifts from me in return for the animals. 
But it turned out that ‘Awde had sent only one of his own 
camels, while the five others belonged to different members 
of the Hwétat, who were now asking the sum of six megidijjat 
($5.40) for each and in addition a special gift to every guide. 
Before I had dealt with this awkward business, Fawzan came 
and asked me whether I could not offer ‘Awde a pair of bin- 
oculars as a gift. I replied that I needed my good binoculars 
for myself and my companions. Fawzan excused himself for 
having come to me, saying that it was the chief’s command 
and that the latter would like either a pair of binoculars or 
firearms or some other gifts. Realizing that “Awde would like 
the binoculars, the firearms, and the other gifts as well, I an- 
nounced my extreme regret at being unable to give him any- 
thing, as I had brought with me only absolute necessities, 
having left the gifts, the extra firearms and binoculars, among 
my stores at Ma‘an, whence they would follow me to Tebdak. 
However, as I should be very pleased to comply with the 
chief’s wishes, I would ask him to send one of his slaves to 
me at Damascus, where, after returning from my journey, 
I would give him everything that remained. If he did not 
wish to send to Damascus, then I would forward the things 
he asked for to his friend and brother, Prince an-Nutri eben 
Saillan, who would certainly deliver them to him in the in- 
terior of the desert. Fawzan went away and ‘Awde did not 
put in an appearance. 

It was after four o’clock in the afternoon when four men 
came riding up on camels to the chief’s tent. They were the 
chief Harb eben ‘Atijje with his retinue. Harb was about 
forty-two years old. The expression of his face revealed sagac- 
ity, but at the same time it aroused repugnance. He was 
a blood relative of “‘Awde, his mother being a sister of ‘Awde’s 
father, and he had married ‘Awde’s daughter. Harb announced 
that by the well of al-MSejtijje, northeast of the railway 
station of al-Mdawwara, his men had perceived a troop of 


28 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


about three hundred on camels proceeding to the north or 
somewhat to the northwest. It was certain that they were 
enemies, but it was not known to what tribe they belonged 
or against whom they were riding. Harb conjectured that they 
were the Sammar on their way to attack the Beni ‘Atijje, 
but ‘Awde declared that they were certainly the Beni Sahr, 
who had purposely eluded the Hwétat, with the intention of 
attacking them by surprise from the south. Both urged the 
men who were present to be cautious and alert. “‘Awde des- 
patched twelve horsemen to the south for the purpose of 
protecting the herds of camels from an unexpected attack. 
Harb immediately returned to his men to the west in order 
that they might repel the enemy, should an attempt be made 
on the flocks returning from the pasture. 

The impending danger induced the herdsmen to return 
with the camels from the pasture at an early hour, and the 
owners brought the animals to me, offering them for sale. 
All the camels were exceptionally fat. In the regions of at- 
Tubejk, where they had been grazing throughout the rainy 
season, there had been an abundance of rain during the past 
two years, in consequence of which they had thriven on luxu- 
riant brushwood and fresh grass. I was told that it is some- 
times necessary to bind the camels’ jaws to prevent excessive 
grazing, as otherwise the surplus fat would cause a breakage 
of their humps. If the camel fattens too much as a result 
of good pasturage, the hump increases by about half; the 
lower part, uniting it with the camel’s back, cannot bear the 
weight; the hump breaks and hangs down on either side, and 
the animal perishes. 

In the evening we ascertained our geographical latitude. 

On Sunday, May 29, 1910, many more camels were offered 
for sale to me. I selected seven animals whose ages were 
between four and six years and paid from fifty to sixty-five 
megidijjat ($45.00 to $58.50) apiece for them. Six of the 
camels were thorough-breds; the remaining one being a cross- 
breed, though very strong and yet of slender build. With 
a hot wire we immediately branded our mark on their left 
thighs—this being a half-moon between two vertical lines 
(helal w metrakén). One of the camels already had eight 
such branded marks, thus recording eight different owners 
before myself. The old marks (wstim) cannot be obliterated, 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 29 


but it is easy to distinguish which mark is the latest, and 
that indicates the owner. 


DEPARTURE FROM ‘AWDE’S CAMP 


While the camels were being branded I had a talk with 
the Fezir whom ‘Awde had recommended to me as a guide. 
From his information, supplemented by that of others, I had 
drawn a sketch map, on the previous day, of the territory 
between al-Gafar and Tejma. I could see that he was well 
acquainted with the district, and I should have liked to secure 
his services as a guide; but he was unwilling to accompany 
me on account of the danger and therefore asked more than 
I could pay him. He wanted first a hundred and then fifty 
Turkish pounds ($450, $225) in gold, which were to be paid 
immediately, irrespective of whether we reached the oasis of 
Tejma or not. In addition I was to give him firearms and my 
own camel for the journey. It occurred to me that in case 
of attack he would not lose much if he left all his wages at 
home and took nothing of his own with him except his old 
garments. By fulfilling this demand, I should have placed 
myself entirely at the mercy of his caprice and should have 
been unable to obtain a cheaper leader later. I offered him 
one megidijje (90 cents) per day and his railway transportation 
from any southern station as far as Ma‘an, whence it would 
be easy for him to reach ‘Awde’s camp. The herdsman in 
charge of the camels, whom I also wished to engage, demanded 
two megidijjat per day, his usual pay being four megidij7at 
for a whole year. Both of them declared that they would 
accompany me only because they were fond of me, knowing 
as they did that they were threatened by certain death. ‘Awde 
sent for other guides, but they all demanded the same amount, 
their excuse being the danger which they would incur if they 
came with me. At last about twenty of them were sitting round 
me; one after another they described the horrors of thirst and 
the hostile bands that lay in wait during the summer season 
for travelers proceeding from the settlement of Ma‘an direct 
to the oasis of Tejma. The more they talked, the more certain 
and terrible became the danger of death, until finally they 
declared that not a single one of them would accompany me. 
My native companions grew alarmed at this talk, and the 


30 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


gendarme Isma‘in whispered to me that he would rather 
return to Ma‘an than go with me to death: I should not forget 
that he had a young wife and three children and that it would 
be difficult for me to bear the responsibility before Allah if 
through my fault his children became orphans. 

Harb eben ‘Atijje now entered the camp again, sat down 
near my baggage, called my companion Gwad to him, and 
questioned him concerning me. He was probably annoyed at 
not having yet received the gifts he had demanded. I had 
already sent him word on Saturday that I should be glad to 
give him something as a keepsake but not until I was in his 
territory and in his tent. On account of this annoyance he 
wished to frighten me. He therefore asked Gwad to show 
him the orders which the Governor had sent him personally 
from Damascus. If we did not have such orders addressed 
specially to him, he would not permit me to enter his terri- 
tory. To this demand of his I replied that I had not yet 
spent any time in his territory and that he therefore had no 
right to demand such orders. Moreover, the Governor at 
Damascus would not allow any chief to demand that he send 
orders to each chief specially, in view of the fact that they 
were all fed and paid by him. Knowing, however, that Harb 
would work up feeling against me, I gave orders for the 
baggage to be loaded immediately upon the camels which 
had been purchased, and announced that I was returning to 
Ma‘an. I asked ‘Awde to permit his negro Mhammad to ac- 
company me. 

At 9.30 on the morning of Sunday, May 29, 1910, we 
left the camp without a guide and without a herdsman in 
charge of the camels. There were not many who took leave 
of us. They had expected abundant gifts and easy earnings, 
and they had been disappointed. I promised the negro Mham- 
mad, who was well acquainted with the region, an ample 
reward if he would tell me exactly the situations and names 
of various places and would remain with me as long as the 
gendarme Isma‘in. I promised the same thing to the latter, 
and I won them both over, because they realized that they 
could obtain more from me than had been given to the two 
chiefs and the other Hwetat who had tried to extort presents 
from me at the camp. 

The journey on the spirited camels was very troublesome. 
Our mounts took fright and dashed off at a trot or canter, 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 31 


so that the gendarme Isma‘in wished to proceed on foot rather 
than risk falling from the saddle and breaking his neck. 
I soon tamed the most spirited of the animals by compelling 
each one to gallop along with me. After ten minutes they 
were out of breath and after a quarter of an hour all the 
camels went along quietly. From 11.32 A. M. to 1.25 P. M. 
we halted on an extensive stretch of lowland covered with 
brushwood and prepared our lunch. Not far from us stood 
two dolmens (Fig. 3), the 
southern one being 2.1 m. 
high and the northern one 
1.65 m. high, 0.7 m. broad at 
the bottom and 0.5 m. at the 
top, with a thickness of about 
0.85 m. To the north of the 
dolmens the soil had been 
artificially hollowed out, and 
rain water had collected there. 
Eastward the plain was en- 
closed by the steep walls of 
asS-Swehet, which the narrow 
plain Harm az-Zbej‘ani sepa- 
rates from Wad‘at al-Hamra 
and al-Kennasijje. At three 
o'clock we reached the east- : | 
ern spur of the flat ridge Hazm al-Cabd, the steep sides 
of which project as much as eighty meters above the plain. 
These consist of three yellowish strata with an occasional 
admixture of black stone upon which no grass or brushwood 
thrives. Cut in them, however, are some short, deep sevban 
covered with brushwood. At 3.56 the furrowed region of 
Tubejz al-“Afar became visible, called al-‘Afar (the white) 
because it contains numerous drifts of white sand. At 4.50 
we halted near the southeastern spur of al-Cabd in the channel 
of a deep se%b, in which our fire could not be seen. The 
camels were able to graze around the baggage. Not knowing 
whether a hostile band was still hidden somewhere close by, 
we did not venture to make a fire on the bank, nor did we 
allow the camels to graze on the uplands, where they would 
have been visible from afar at sunset. 





Fic. 3—Two dolmens south 
of Habra Minwa’. 


82 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


VIEW FROM AL-CABD 


Accompanied by Mhammad, Taman and I ascended al- 
Cabd, from which we could sketch the whole of the surround- 
ing country. The view to the north, east, and south was 
extremely impressive. 
























































Fic. 4—Tubejz al-‘Afar from the west. 


To the north we could survey the whole plain of al-Gafar, as well 
as the more southern slopes of the mountains of al-Hganagém and al- 
Ka‘ade, which form the watershed between the Dead Sea and the de- 
pression of al- Gafar. To the southeast of these heights the mountain 
ranges of ar-Rha’, Hmar as-Sawwan, Berk ad-Dtde, and Gal al-Hawsa 
divide the fertile depression of Sirhan from that of al- Gafar. On the 
western slope of this watershed there is a very abundant growth of ‘adder, 
for which reason the gullies uniting in the valleys of al-Rwejr and ‘Arfa 
are called Se‘iban al- “A drijjat. The steep slope Gal al- Hawsa separates 
the region of Tubejz al--Afar from Tubejz al-Hamar. Beneath it in the 
hollow of Fihat at-Tlejha are wells, Kulban al-Hawsa, from which the 
Se%ib of al-‘Enab extends in a northwesterly direction as far as al-Gafar. 
Along the right-hand slope of al-‘Enab and to the northwest of the wells 
stretches the table-shaped elevation of Umm Rukuba, while still farther 
to the northwest is the table-shaped elevation Kart al-‘Enab; and on the 
left-hand side among the hills of Radh as-Sumr is the water Mehir abu 
“Alda. ‘The defile of Harm abu ‘Alda SEEN these hills from the peer 
To the west of ‘nese heights, from south to north, extends the narrow 
plain of Harm ‘Alejjan, bordered on the south by the table-land of al- 
Kennasijje. Down the northeastern spur of these hills, under Kart al-Amrar, 
the rain water flows into the pond al-Fasasijjat. 

The watershed between the Se‘tb of al-Hawsa and the basin of Sorar 
on the southwest is formed by the hills of al-Guhfe, ar-Rise, an-Negili, 
al-Msérif, Sarmada, Twejjel az-Zibed, Umm Leben, az-Zejdanijje, and al- 
Rdawijje. North of Twejjel az-Zibed is the water Tméd Rabi‘a. All these 
uplands belong to the region of Tubejz al-‘Afar (Fig. 4), the western 
frontier of which is formed by the plains of Ammu Rgam and Fihat 
Hawmal, from which rain water fills the ponds Habari ‘Amrat. Westward 
from these plains rise the uplands of ‘Enaz, Durdas, at-Taje, Zel’ Hawmal, 
Sa‘ada’-l-Hamra’, al-‘Erak, and az-Zejdanijje. The plains of Harm al- 
Hemara and Harm al-MhaSSar separate the elevations az-Zejdanijje from 
Sa‘ada’-l-Barsa’ and al-Rdawijje, the last-named being connected with 
as-Swéhet. 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 33 


Westward of these table-lands we could see beneath us an endless 
yellowish plain, from which rose countless cupolas, cones, peaks, and 
obelisks, isolated and in groups. As the highest of these elevations rose 
only a little higher than the point where we were standing, it was obvious 
that none was more than 980 meters high. The nearest to us was the 
mutilated pyramid of al-‘Ejsawi which towers up to the southeast; south- 
west of it rises the peak of al-Mzejjen; and west of the latter the five 
cones of at-Tamlat, southwest of which there extends from east to west 
a table-land overlooked by the hill of al-“-Awga’. South of al-Mzejjen and 
Sa‘ada’-l-Barsa’ rise the three high obelisks of Kalb al-Mgawwah, and 
south of them, westward of Sa‘ada’-l-Hamra’, the huge group of Klab 
al-Hejl and al-HeSSe.? 

Southeast of al-HeSSe the plain of Bwejb al-Hawi merges with the 
plain of Fihat Hawmal. At a considerable distance to the south, from 
a yellowish plain, there rose the dark ridge of Se‘ata partly concealing 
the peak of HiSst at-Towr, which lies north of the railway station of Dat 
al-Hagg and southeast of the station of Halat ‘Ammar. North of Se‘ata 
the peaks of Dbejdeb Selit were reflected from the glistening white salt 
marsh as-Sabha. At the southwestern edge of this marsh stand the old 
pilgrims’ station of Kal‘a Sorar!® and the new railway station of al- 
Mdawwara. i 

The Se%b of Fzér al-Razi, dividing at-Taje from Durdas and Sdejjed 
Razi, ends in the marshes of as-Sabha; and here also ends the se%b of 
al-Mkejhil, which originates at MSaS al-Cabd under the name al-Gebi’, 
as well as ar-Rwétje and ar-Ratje to the west of al-Mkejhil. On the 
right side of ar-Ratje, stretching from north to southeast, the plain is 
shut in by a row of hillocks, Berk ar-Rezaje, partly buried in sand. 


® Ibn Ishak (died 768 A.D.) relates (Ibn HiSAam [died 834 A.D.], Sira [Wiistenfeld], 
p. 975; Jakat, Mu‘gam [Wiistenfeld], Vol. 2, p. 448) that Zejd ibn Hareta attacked the Beni 
Gudam near HuSejn, which, according to Ibn Hisam, is situated in the region of Hesma. — 
If we ventured to read HuSSejn, we could locate this spot in al-HeSSe, situated on the eastern 
border of Hesma not far from a supply of water at al-MSejtijje and thus suitable for 
a camping place. It is possible that Zejd returned through the region of Hesma to Tebutk ; 
but from the narratives of al-Wakedi and Ibn HiSAam it does not seem as if he penetrated 
into Hesma. 


10 Jakuat, op. cit., Vol. 3, p. 77, states that Sarr is the border between the Hegaz and 
Syria, that it lies between al-Murita and the settlement of Tebik, forming a station on the 
Syrian Pilgrim Route, and that it was there that the leaders of the armies fighting in 
Syria waited for the Caliph ‘Omar ibn al-Hattab. He also asserts that al-Medina is thirteen 
days’ march distant from the station of Sarr and that, according to Malek ibn Ans, Sarr is 
a settlement in Wadi Tebtk. 

Al-Murita should be located on the Pilgrim Route, north of Sorar, but it is utterly 
unknown. It seems to me that it has been erroneously transcribed from Ma‘an or confused 
with the station of the same name on the road from al-Kifa. The statement of Malek ibn 
Ans that Sarr is situated in the Wadi Tebtk is obviously incorrect, for the Arabic geographers 
nowhere refer to the Wadi Tebtk. 

The same place, Sorar, is also recorded by Jakit, op. cit., Vol. 3, p. 86, in the form 
Sart’. He quotes a passage from a lost work by Abu Hudajfa on the conquest of Syria, in 
which it was stated that Abu “Obejda marched with the Moslems by way of Wadi al-Kura’, 
al-Gunejne, al-Akra‘, Tebik, and Sari‘, whereupon he advanced into Syria. — All these 
places here referred to are situated on the present Pilgrim Route, and from this it is clear 
that Sart‘ is a corruption of Sarr. The old name Sarr has been preserved by the natives 
in the form Sorar; but in the later literature of the pilgrimages it was replaced by the name 
Tubejlijjat or Tabilijjat. 

Mehmed Edib (1779 A.D.) writes (Mendzil [Constantinople, 1232 A.H.], p. 72) that 
the station of Tubejlijjat is fifteen hours distant from Zahr al-‘Akaba, that no water is to 
be had there, and that the stronghold and reservoir there were built by ‘Abdallah Pasha. 
According to him, on both sides of the stronghold rise stony slopes, and an endless desert 
stretches away from the mountains, undulating and from afar resembling an ocean of sand. 
The road to the station of Dat al-Hagg is stony except for a track on which one travels 
for about three hours. 


34 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Farther west extends another row of jagged brownish hillocks, which 
at the time we observed them were covered with bluish shadows cast by 
the setting sun. 


AL-CABD TO THE SE‘IB OF AL-KREN 


Having returned to our camels, we made them kneel down 
close to the hillside, tethering their front legs; and after 
supper we lay down around them, fearing lest the high spirit- 
ed animals should be frightened by some wild beast during 
the night and run away. 

On Monday, May 30, 1910, we were in the saddle as 
early as 4.15 A. M. (temperature: 8°C). Not wishing to ride 
around the spur of the ridge of al-Cabd, which extends far 
to the north, we laboriously ascended the steep slope (gdl) 
by winding paths and then, after a short time, crawled down 
into a low ground covered with luxuriant perennials. At six 
o’clock we reached the dome of Mhakhak al-Cabd and re- 
mained beneath it until 7.03. This dome, which rises above 
the southern slope of the table-land al-Cabd, affords a de- 
lightful view across the southern plains. It seemed as if the 
latter, lying several hundred meters below us, were plunged 
in bluish water from which arose a dark blue vapor enfold- 
ing still darker water with a thin veil. Above the dense haze 
there rose like islets countless horns, cones and truncated 
cones, blunt pyramids, obelisks, and other quaint shapes, fash- 
ioned by the action of rain, frost, and wind, which had gnawed 
at the layers of rock and carried away the softer ingredients 
to the east and southeast as far as the sandy desert an-Neftd. 
The rays of the rising sun were reflected from the separate 
peaks in a dense shower of golden sparks, while the sides turn- 
ed away from the sun were wrapped in a dark red shadow. 

From Mhakhak al-Cabd we turned toward the west, rid- 
ing above the slope itself until we descended through a deep 
gap to the foot of it. The descent was very difficult. The 
road led between huge broken boulders, amid which our cam- 
els, loaded as they were, could not pick their way; so we 
were obliged to unload the animals and carry the baggage our- 
selves. In places there were drifts of sand a meter in depth 
and so soft that the camels sank into it up to their knees. 
At 8.05 we arrived at the rain water well MSas al-Cabd, 
situated at the foot of the mountains in a small bay. The 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 35 


well is between three and four meters deep and after a heavy 
rain is filled with water to a depth of one meter. If it 
does not rain copiously for two or three years the water 
dries up. In the immediate vicinity there is an abundant 
growth of ba‘étran. 

Having let the camels drink and after filling our goat- 
skin bags with water, we moved on at 8.40 and by numerous 
windings reached the summit, along which we proceeded in 
a west-southwesterly direction. From 9.32 to 11.05 we let 
the camels graze, while we drew a sketch of the southern 
region. At twelve o’clock we reached the very edge of the 
slope which falls steeply towards the south and saw beneath 
us on the plain of al-Mazlim large green expanses that re- 
minded us of our own fields of central Europe. They were 
densely covered with the plants known as semh. In the lower 
places the semh was dark green, while on the borders higher 
up, where the moisture had already evaporated, it was be- 
ginning to grow yellow and ripe. Bluish sandstone rocks en- 
closed the semh-covered plains. Farther to the south there 
extended olive-colored cones, horns, and ridges, with pink 
slopes, which seemed to throb in the burning and almost 
visible rays of the noonday sun. All the sides facing the north- 
west were covered with yellowish sand, while the eastern 
and northeastern sides had a dark brown gloss, and on some 
of them blood-red stripes could be distinguished. At two 
o’clock Mhammad pointed out to me, far in the south, the 
sharp, jagged peaks of al--Agat and, to the northwest of them, 
two cones and seven dome-shaped groups which formed 
Se‘ata. To the southwest of us and quite close by, there arose 
the three tabular hills of at-Tlejtwat, which at times disap- 
peared in the quivering haze and at other times assumed 
gigantic shapes which appeared to change their positions. 
The undulating upland of al-Cabd gradually merges into the 
plain of ar-Ratijje, inclining to the north toward the se%b 
of Ammu Mil but falling steeply toward the south. In places 
the stony soil is so eaten away by wind and rain that it ap- 
pears to have been artificially paved. In places, too, it 1s cov- 
ered with coarse gravel in which the only growing things 
are small groups of da‘a‘, a species of semh. In a few shal- 
low declivities there thrive mti, rite, mrar, and knéfde, which 
the Hwetat call ¢aff marjam. 

At 2.45 P. M. Mhammad showed me, to the south at the 


36 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


foot of the slope, the rain water well M848 Gebi‘, by which 
‘Awde abu Tajeh encamped in December, 1909, on his march 
to Tubejz al-‘Afar. From this camp he undertook a campaign 
against the Sirhan clan, whose flocks were then grazing on the 
southern foot of the Hawran, north of Kusejr ‘Amra. Passing 
through the Se%b of Hedreg, the Hwétat were observed by 
the Beni Sahr, who immediately pursued them on horses 
and camels and overtook them in five hours. A fight took 
place, in which the Beni Sahr succumbed to the superior 
power of the Hwétat. Between twenty and twenty-five of 
the combatants fell, among them Hajel eben Fajez, my good 
friend and brother, who in the years 1898, 1900, and 1901 
accompanied me to the castle of ‘Amra. A treacherous bullet 
ended the life of this undaunted warrior, whose body was 
covered with scars of both rifle and sword wounds. Of his 
brothers, who were friends of mine, Bargas, Gerth, and 
Mhammad perished in the fight; the only one to die a natural 
death being Talal, who died in October, 1909, at Damascus, 
where he was negotiating with the Governor. In the above- 
mentioned fight north of al-Hedreg, the Hweétat captured 
seven mares, whose riders were thrust from the saddle 
(kalaje‘), and also sixty good riding camels. 

At 4.05 we perceived on our right hand some small thick- 
ets of talh trees growing in the gullies which join with 
the setb of Ammu Mil. At 4.19 we halted by one of these 
thickets (temperature: 31.5° C). The trees, which attained a 
diameter of eight-tenths of a meter, were luxuriantly green 
and dotted with hard circular buds. Their long thorns cov- 
ered all the surrounding ground, and we had to gather them 
up, aS otherwise they would have penetrated our skin bags. 
Our camels found abundant pasturage in the vicinity and we 
prepared the evening meal. As the smoke from our fire could 
have been seen from afar, we decided not to spend the night 
in the same place; so at 7.02 we proceeded farther to the west 
and at 8.30 encamped in one of the gullies of the sSe%b of 
al-Krén. 


THE SE‘IB OF AL-KREN TO RWEJSAT UMM RAZA 


On Tuesday, May 31, 1909, at 5.05 A. M. (temperature: 
10.5° C) we entered the region of al-Kdtr. This consists of 
undulating plains furrowed to the north by broad, deep chan- 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 37 


nels, and it contains no considerable peaks or elevations. Only 
to the northeast could be seen a knoll of no great height 
with a large pile of stones upon it. Beneath this knoll, in the 
Seib of al-Keder, lies the rain water well Msas abu ‘Amdd. 
To the northwest the region of al-Kdtr extends as far as 
the ruin of al-Mrejjera, which is also called Hirbet al-Kdtr.™ 

In the autumn of 1907 the clan of ‘Awde abu Tajeh was 
encamped at al-Kdtr. Their flocks, which were grazing in the 
Seiban of Abu ‘Alejdijjat, were attacked by the Sammar 
and driven away as booty. The Sammar also stole a herd of 
white she-camels (mardatir) belonging to ‘Awde. Now white 
she-camels are the pride of every clan, and they form the 
only herd from which not a single animal is sold. So it is 
customary to have them guarded by the best fighters; and 
if an enemy succeeds in stealing this herd the news spreads 
throughout the desert, all who hear it admire the alertness of 
the marauder and jeer at the careless clan which allowed its 
white herd to be driven away. At that time “Awde was paying a 
visit to an-Nuri eben Sa‘lan, who was encamped on the south- 
ern foot of the Hawran by al-Azrak. ‘Awde returned to his 
men on the day following the raid; as soon as he heard the 
sad and ignominious news that his white herd had been stolen 
from him, he at once proceeded with sixty men on camels 
in pursuit of the Sammar. He overtook them in the region 
of al-Htg, on the northwestern border of the Neftid near the 
well of Abu Tenijje. There are only two convenient roads 
leading from the basin in which the well is situated to the 
upland. During the night ‘Awde occupied both roads, sur- 
rounded the Sammar who were asleep, killed seven men, res- 
cued the stolen herd, and took thirty-two riding camels as 
plunder, with which he returned to his men. The latter, who 
were then encamped by the rain water well MSas ar-Ratijje, 
greeted him with hearty rejoicings. 

At 6.02 A. M. we crossed the main road leading from 
south to north, the road which is followed by the migrating 
tribes. At the station of al-Hazm it separates from the Pil- 
grim Route and passes by the watering places at al-Mratijje, 


11 Al-Mas‘tdi (956 A.D.), Tanbih (De Goeje), p. 338, relates that in the year 716—717 
the Abbasside, Muhammed ibn ‘Ali, dwelt, according to some in al-Homejma, according to 
others in Krar among the aS-Sera’ mountains in the territory of al-Belka’ in the adminis- 
trative area of Damascus. 

According to manuscript L (British Museum, Add. 23, 270), ibid., p. 338, note 8, the 
place Krar should be read as Kdar, which is identical with the present Keder or Kdar. It 
is situated among the aS-Sera’ mountains bordering on the environs of al-Homejma in the 
administrative area of Damascus. Al-Belka’ did not extend so far to the south. 


38 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


al-‘Akejla, al-MSétijje, and al-Gafar. Thence it winds through 
the defile of an-Nkejb to the Kurtasijje range, passes by Twil 
as-Shak on the west, swings off to Radir al-Ginz, and at al- 
Hasa’ again unites with the highroad of al-Hagg, the Pil- 
erim Route. At the wells of al-Gafar this road is crossed by 
another road leading from the west from Petra (Wadi Musa) 
via Ma‘an, al-Gafar, al-Hawsa, and Majku* to Damat al-Gan- 
dalijje (al-Gowf).”” 

Westward from the former road the region of al-Kdtr 
becomes more and more rugged. The individual gullies are 
deeper and the slopes more precipitous. At 8.42 we perceived 
in one of the gullies a boulder 2 m. long, 1.6 m. high, and 
1.1 m. thick, known as al-Madbah (place of sacrifice) because 
it is said that upon it goats and sheep have been sacrificed 
to the dead who are buried in the small cemetery to the south. 
Around al-Madbah, as well as in the other Sevbdan of the 
neighborhood, there is an abundant growth of ratam, iden 
al-hmar, Sth; also Zetdde in places and talh bushes. The hills 
separating the se7vbdn from each other are covered with coarse 
stones, which made it difficult for our camels to press forward. 
From 9.30 to eleven o’clock we remained in the se%b of al- 
Mutrammel, where the camels found only a scanty pasture 
(temperature: 29.8° C). The winter rains had filled the artificial 
reservoirs at the pilgrimage station of Fas0o‘a, and several 
clans of the Hwetat had encamped near by. Their flocks had 
been grazing in al-Kdtr, and in consequence all the grass 
and brushwood had been consumed. At 1.15 P. M. we crossed 
the railway line near the station of ‘Akabat al-Hegazijje 
(L150 ena) ton 

To the northeast we perceived a higher elevation, Twejjel 
al-Hagg, and to the west a tower-shaped pile of stones indicat- 
ing the site of the pilgrimage station of Fas0‘a, hidden in the 
basin of the se%b of al-MSas, which unites with Abu ‘Amdad 


12 This is the transport route which Artemidorus (100 B.C.) states (Strabo, Geography, 
XVI, 4: 18) is used by the trade caravans of the inhabitants of Gerrha proceeding to Petra. 


8 Jakuat, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 2, p. 712, relates that Dat al-Mana4r is situated 
on the extreme southern border of Syria. It was there that Abu ‘Obejda (634 A.D.) pitched 
his camp on his expedition to Syria. — As we know from the report which is recorded by 
Abu Hudajfa (Jaktt, op. cit., Vol. 3, p. 86), Abu ‘Obejda entered Syria north of Sorar; 
we must therefore expect to find Dat al-Manar between this settlement and the town of 
transport route from southwestern Arabia to Syria ascended the ridge of aS-Sera’ behind the 
station of Sorar, through the pass of Batn R&I, which is the most convenient for draft 
animals. Above this pass there certainly was erected a watchtower, illuminated on dark 
nights in order that the caravans might not wander from the right path and therefore called 
Dat al-Manar. Similar towers were built along the road from al-Kiafa to al-Medina, where 


they were also known as Manar. 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 39 


farther to the northeast. At 12.40 P. M. we descended to the 
small ruined fortress of Fas0‘a, north of which are situated 
two artificial rain pools still partly filled with water (Figs. 
5, 6, 7). We remained near this spot until 1.32. 

The camels were very thirsty, pressing forward to the 
edge of the parapet of the rain pools, and it was all we could 
do to drive them away and prevent them from falling into 
the water. Serif and Mhammad baled the water out of the 
pond with a canvas bucket, making the camels drink from 
this container. No sooner had the animals assuaged their 
thirst than they were running about in search of pasture. 
Accordingly, there was nothing for us to do but to replace 
the baggage quickly and move on, as there was not a single 
plant in the vicinity of the rain pools. Everything had been 
entirely eaten up. 

We proceeded to the west through the opening of the 
seiban of Abu ‘Alejdijjat, which join Abu Rtejmat and al- 
Makmi, At three o’clock we reached the se%b of al-Morara, 
near which the region of al-Kdar ends and the actual range 
of a’-Sera’ begins. The latter consists of a broad, flat ridge 
ascending towards the northwest, covered with coarse gravel 
in which the sa‘rdn grows abundantly. At 4.20 we halted on 
the southern foot of the cone of Rwejsat umm Raza, north- 
west of the pass Nakb al-Hdejb, which is traversed by a fairly 
convenient road to the southern lowlands (temperature: 
30.5° C). Serif was to prepare our evening meal while Isma‘in 
guarded the camels. 


VIEW FROM KNOLL OF AL-HDEJB 


Taking Mhammad with us we proceeded to the knoll of 
al-Hdejb, which is of no great height and stands near a precip- 
itous slope, and from its summit we made a geographical sketch. 





VA see 


descriptions of travel. Mehmed Edib, Menézil (Constantinople, 1232 A. H.), p. 71, ealls it 
Zahr al-‘Akaba, as well as “Ibadan, while the pilgrims are said to have called it also Syrian 
‘Akaba. It is thirteen hours distant from Ma‘an, without water, and situated in a valley. 
A military guard from Ma‘an escorts the pilgrims as far as this station along a flint-covered 
road. Just before al-“Akaba is reached the pilgrims dismount from their litters and proceed 
downhill on foot; the pasha — the leader of the pilgrims — sits beneath a parasol at al-“Akaba 
and inspects the pilgrims advancing before him. At this point the water bearers distribute 
sherbet. In the sandy and stony district round about, Othman Pasha (died 1753) caused 
a stronghold and a fountain to be built. The locality of Lis, like a village, is situated behind 
‘Ibadan, to which it belongs. It is in these places that the chamberlain of the pasha who is 
in charge of the pilgrims’ caravan collects letters from the pilgrims on the return journey 
and conveys them speedily to Constantinople. Generally, however, this is done earlier, at the 
settlement of Tebaik. — The Lis referred to by Mehmed Edib perhaps designates the group 


VA ose 


AQ) 





THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


EIGe 


Fig. 5—Faso‘a fortress from the southeast. 
Fic. 6—Fas0‘a fortress, interior. 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 41 


To the east we could see the deep gap of Batn al-‘Akaba, through 
which the railway line winds to the stations of Batn R&l (1125 m.) and 
Wadi ar-Ratam (993 m.). To the south from as-Sera’ lead the passes 
Nakb as-Sen‘, al-Mumbatah, al-Ahmar, and al-Hdejb, from the last of 
which we were taking observations (1355 m.) (Fig.8). Not far to the 
west as-Sera’ bends northward at the spur Ras al-Msattara. At this 
spur begins the set%b of Raber, called al-Hafir in its central part. This 
Setb is joined on the right by the se7bdn of Umm Zareb, Umm Etle, 





Fic. 7—Rain pool of Fas0‘a. 


and Ammu Tlejha and comes to an end in the rain pond Naka‘ al- 
‘Alejjin near Kal‘a Sorar, where also end the al-Mhejs and ar-Ratam val- 
leys, which are traversed by the railway line. Between the two latter 
valleys rise the isolated peaks of al-Harad, ‘Emmér, and al-Hatijje, 
while between al-Mhejs and al-Hafir, on a rocky plain, are situated the 
cone-shaped hills of ‘Ammar, Dbejban, and al-Kaws. West of Dbejban 
and the se%b of al-Hafir towers the isolated “Omejr, south of which is 
Ammu Sdad, split into two parts; and southwest of Ammu Sdad stands 
the mutilated obelisk of as-Skék. To the south of al-Hafir the Hozon 
(or al-Hozn) valley, which begins between the al-Abrak and al-Birde 
ranges, ends also at Naka‘ al-‘Alejjin. In its upper portion, on the right, 
al-Hozn is joined by Ammu Rkejbe, Umm Hasim, and al-Bahtijje, as well 
as by as-Samra, Abu Hsejje, and al-Mhas, all three of which proceed from 
the as-Sa‘ejd elevation. The latter is bordered to the south by the al-Losom 
valley, which starts in the as-Sardan plain and is joined on the right by the 
Seiban of ar-Ratama and Umm ‘Alda. Between the lower courses of al- 
Hozon and al-Losom lies the short gully Sidd al-Kah. The rain ponds 
Habari Sorar derive their water from the Sevbdn of as-Saladeh, Wudej 


A 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


we 


42 


‘ySOMYYNOS puev ‘YANos YsvoyyNos SuTyoo, qlepH-[e woi1y—e ‘D1 





MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 43 


Rakeb, Ab-al-Har, al-Hasra, and al-Halfa. The latter proceeds from the 
water Hsi ammu Sejfén in Ammu Kaff and is joined on the right 
by Umm Rati and Umm Sellale, between which rises the cone of Bnejzer. 
To the southeast of Habari Sorar ends Se‘ib at- Tebahher, which begins 
near Twejjel al-Magntin under the name of al-Mustahakna, and in which 
is situated the water of Hsejjet Stejje. The last Se%b, running in a north- 
easterly direction through the hills of Ndérat al-Fhal to the marshes of 
as-Sabha, is called al-Mu‘ajzeb. 

Near Dat al-Hags end the Seibdn of Hlejf Zeben, which runs from 
the hills of al-Abrak, and Umm Zarb, which is joined by al-Hind. The 
latter comes from the watershed of Nedra and from the fountain of al- 
Hind (Bir al-Hind), divides the hills of ‘Enejk on the south from those 
of ‘Id (Berka ‘Id) on the north, and borders on the south side of al- 
Hanaser. Near Berka ‘Id are the springs of al-Hlélit. 

The station of Dat al-Hagg lies in a basin into which the water 
flows from the surrounding valleys, hiding itself beneath alluvial de- 
posits and sand. In many places the water rises to the surface, so that 
it would be possible to plant the whole hollow with palms, which now grow 
here and there only. The pilgrimage station is a rectangular stone strong- 
hold with a large courtyard and a shallow well containing good clean 
water. 14 

The plain of ad-Darejn, extending southward from Dat al-Hagg, is 
enclosed on the west by the hills of ad-Dhal, Berk at-Twéref, and 
al-Kidrijje. Into it merges the se%ib. of Dimne (near which are situated 
the wells Gebw al-Hamir, Biz, and Dimne), as well as the great WAdi 
az-Zejte, which, under the name of an-Ngejli, begins at Bir al-Msallam 
in the az-Zejte range. On the left this wddi is joined by Ammu Frit 
and Umm HaSab, which proceed from the al-Mhassa and al-Harik hills; 
on the right the following se“bdn merge with az-Zejte: al-Mrassa, which 
rises in the Far‘tn hills; at-Tamri, which conveys water from al-Mnejdir, 
ad-Darabig, and as-Sehem; Sdér, separating the al-Hrejmat hills from 
‘Emart al-‘Agtz and al-HawAatel; and Rejlan, proceeding from the ruins 
al-Krajje. At the lower end of the last-named Se%b are the wells of 
al-‘Ejéne. 

To the north of our halting place, near the pass of al-Hdejb, the 
rain water flows through the se‘iban of al-Morara, Bajjaz, and al-Abjaz 
to the valley of as-Sidijje, which ends in the depression of al- Gafar. 
The dome-shaped hills of Rwejsat umm Raza separate aSs- Sidijje from 
the gullies of Sna° Zaher and Abu Kejstma, which combine to form the 
Seib of az-Zerib. The latter, after merging with ad-Dabbe, is called Ta- 


144 Jakat, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 2, p. 182, refers to a place called Dat Hag 
between al-Medina and Syria. 

According to Abu-l-Feda’ (died 1331 A.D.), Muhtasar (Adler), Vol. 5, p. 284, the Beni Lam, 
who were encamped in the Heg4z, gathered together near Dat al-Hagg in the year 1313 and 
attacked the merchants traveling out on camels to Tebak to meet the returning pilgrims. 
More than twenty merchants fell before they managed to beat off the Beni Lam and take 
about eighty riding-camels away from them. — The Beni Lam belonged to the tribe of Tajj. 
Today they encamp in southern Irak. 

Mehmed Edib, op. cit., p. 72, states that the station of Dat al-Hagg is also called Dar 
al-Hags, Hagar, and Bijar. He says it is fourteen hours distant from Cariman, as the station 
of Tubejlijjat was sometimes called. During the reign of Sultan Suleiman, according to 
Mehmed Edib, a stronghold and a reservoir were established there, the latter being filled 
from a well dug in the stronghold. An abundance of wild dates was to be found there, 
because date palms thrived in soil in which water could be obtained anywhere by digging ; 
the shallow wells at this station belonged to the Beni Selim tribe; the hill opposite was 
ealled Kubbet al-Hagar; all the gravel consisted of pebbles and flints. 


44 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


berijja and is joined on the left by Abu Haltfa. Its lower course is 
known as al-Msawwal. 

We stood on the ridge of the as-Sera’ range where, after 
running from north to south, it turns off almost at a right 
angle to the east, thus forming for a distance of nearly one 
hundred kilometers the natural frontier between territory 
on the north which might be partially cultivated and rocky 
and sandy desert on the south; between present-day Syria 
and the Hegaz; between the Arabia Petraea and Arabia Felix 
of classical times; and between the mountain range of Se‘ir, 
or Edom and the territory of the Madianites of Biblical times. 


RWEJSAT UMM RAZA TO AL-BATRA 


Returning to our baggage, we came without warning upon 
Isma‘in sitting quietly by the fire drinking coffee. Five of 
the camels were not to be seen, but two of them were grazing 
on a hill about two kilometers away. When I reproached him 
for neglecting to guard the camels, which, in this undulating 
region, might easily be driven off by enemies moving through 
the numerous passes, he replied calmly: “If Allah has decreed 
that the camels are to be stolen from us, we cannot prevent 
it even if we guard them.” 

After the evening meal we proceeded farther to the west 
at 7.40 and at 8.47 encamped in the se%b of Sna‘° Zaher. The 
night was very warm and clear. 

On Wednesday, June 1, 1910, I roused my companions 
at three o’clock, untethered the camels so that they could 
graze, and lit a small fire over which I warmed the coffee. 
Mhammad and Isma‘in did not get up until the smell of the 
steaming beverage reached them. A small cup of coffee and 
a morsel of bread composed our breakfast. At 4.45 (temper- 
ature: 17° C) we set off on the march, at first to the west, 
but from five o’clock onwards due north, because as-Sera’ 
itself turns off almost at a right angle to the north near 
Ras al-Msattara (1455 m.). We proceeded over broad, low 
table-lands, and through shallow, broad valleys, all of which 
could have been cultivated. They were covered with an abun- 
dance of annuals and perennials. To the west these plateaus 
fall away steeply, without any transition, to a depth of about 
three hundred meters, while to the east the descent is gradual. 
At eight o’clock we reached a region where the table-lands 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 45 


merge into an elevation cut by broad valleys and numerous 
narrow, deep, transverse gullies. Only the lower valleys might 
be transformed into fertile fields; but on the slopes of the 
gullies there is an abundance of grass and bushes, which 
affords copious pasture. There is a fair amount of water, as 
nearly every Se?%b contains a spring; so the whole region 
might be tilled and colonized. Before us rose the mighty 
dome-shaped peak of al-Batra, projecting somewhat to the 
east from the ridge of aS-Sera’ itself. 

We met five migrating families of the Beni ‘Atijje, as 
they call themselves, though the Hwétat and other tribes 
camping to the north of Ma‘an nearly always refer to them 
as Ma“‘aze or ‘Atawne. Each family had but one camel, upon 
which was loaded all its property: a tiny tent with a single 
main pole, torn blankets, a bag of semh, a small pouch of 
sour milk, and the smallest of the children. The other mem- 
bers of the family walked behind the camels, driving a small 
flock of goats with long, shiny, black hair. No flock contained 
more than fifteen animals. 

At 8.27 we arrived at the spring wells Bijar al-Batra 
(Figs. 9, 10). Of these about twenty are filled with stones, 
but eight have been preserved in good condition. They are 
nearly four meters deep, and the water in them is always 
clear and fresh but flows only gradually. Serif crept into a 
well and filled a canvas bucket which Isma‘in held attached 
to a rope. The camels did not want to drink, so we filled one 
of the bags and at 8.50 began to mount the winding paths 
to the peak of al-Batra. We were accompanied by a Hwéti 
who had joined us at the springs. At 9.15 we deposited our 
baggage by the ruined Roman watchtower (Fig. 11) and 
remained there until noon (temperature: 34.5°°C). The camels 
grazed while we drew a sketch map. 


VIEW FROM AL-BATRA 


From al-Batra a wide view is obtainable. To the south the prospect 
s enclosed by the high peaks and cones constituting the mountains of 
Ramm, al-Barra, al-Mazmar, and the mutilated pyramid of Umm ‘Asrin, 
with the huge and lofty ridge of Raman west of Umm ‘AS&Srin. In the 
more immediate foreground to the south, above a rocky plain, rise the 
solated remains of mountains of various partly disintegrated forms. 
From the plain the rain water flows through the Se‘%tb of Btajjehat 
to the Wadi al-Jitm. Btajjehat has three tributaries: from the south- 
east, al-Herim; from the northeast, an-Nasfe; and from the north, 


46 THE NORTHERN HECGAZ 





Rig0 


Figs. 9 and 10—Bijar (wells of) al-Batra. 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 47 


at-Telage. Al-Herim rises between al-Barra, al-Abrak, and Gilf al- 
Mnejsir; near it and in the eastern part of the Ramm range are situ- 
ated the wells of al-‘Agelin, Abu Rmejle, as-Sbah, al-Kwejse, and al- 
Mrejra. An-Nasfe begins south of al-Msattara on the southern foot of 
the low table-shaped rocks of Dera’ umm Swade and Hazb as-Saferin 





Fic. 11—Plan of Roman watchtower, al-Batra. 


and joins al-Herim southwest of the brown, cone-shaped peaks of ‘Atra 
and ‘Emfd and south of the huge broken summit of al-Hsani. At-Telage 
proceeds from the ruins of the same name on the western edge of the 
asS-Sera’ range. It separates the rocks of al-Me‘zanijje from al-Gill; 
al-‘Emejjed from Hazb as-Saferin, near which flows the spring of al- 
Rorr; the peak of “‘Erka from Salaka; Abu Halktim from Hzejb ar-Ruhbi; 
al-Mharak and al-Hmejza from Hazbat ar-Ratama; and, joining with 
al-Herim west of al-Hsani between the cones of Ahejmer and Umm 
Hasa, forms Btajjehat. 


48 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


To the northeast could be seen the railway station of Ma‘an, the 
depression of al-Gafar with Twil Shak to the north, and west of the 
latter the extinct volcanoes rising east of the settlement of Dana. 
There is no view from al-Batra to the west because the vast ridge of 
ak-Sera’ rises up to cut off the prospect in that direction.’ 


AL-BATRA TO BIR HADAB 


From al-Batra we proceeded to the west. The sevbdn are 
deep, the slopes rocky, but between them extends a level ele- 
vation upon which both annuals and perennials flourish. North 
of al-Batra there are numerous springs of water. At 12.30 
P. M., in the se%b of al-Hufejjere, we found the remains of 
old Pamicnes and at 12.47 two old, but still active, wells of 
the same name. We then mounted the ridge of as- -Sera’, upon 
which we halted at 1.17 among the ruins of Umm Merete 
GHi ost s 
_ Umm at-Telage is the southernmost settlement on as- 
Sera’, there being hundreds of similar ruins to the north of 
it. The ridge of aS-Sera’, which is flat and covered with a broad 
layer of yellow clay, could easily be transformed into fertile 
fields. There is a magnificent view into the region of Hesma’, 
toward which as-Sera’ falls steeply over three hundred meters. 


Hesma’ begins to the northwest of Umm at-Telage and extends far 
to the south. It is a white, rocky plain, eroded by rain, wind, and sand, 
upon which are found the numberless scattered, brown remains of 
various firmer strata. On the northeast this plain is bordered by the 
steep wall of the as-Sera’ range; and on the west by a brown ridge 
which runs from north to south, falling off on the west towards the 


15 Stephen of Byzantium (about 600 A. D.), Hthnica (Meineke), p. 237, calls Dusara 
a very high mountain in Arabia. According to him it is named after the god Dusare, who is 
worshipped by the Arabs and Dacharenoi tribes. 

Ibn Haldtin (died 1406 A.D.), Mukaddima (Quatremére), Vol. 1, pp. 110—111; idem, 
‘Ibar (Balak, 1284 A.H.), Vol. 1, p. 52, writes that to the east from the shore of the 
Mediterranean Sea there rises a huge mountain called al-Lukkam. Beginning near the Sea 
of Kolzum, not far from the town of Ajla, it extends in a north-northeast direction, separat- 
ing Egypt from Syria. At its southern extremity, near Ajla, is the steep pass of al-“Akaba, 
through which the journey is made from Egypt to Mecca, and to the north of which Abraham 
is buried. The mountain range of al-Lukkam is bordered to the north from al-‘Akaba by the 
aS-Sera’ range, which first runs towards the east but then changes its direction. To the east 
of it is situated the settlement of al-Hegr, the territory of the Tamtd tribe, and the oases 
of Tejma and Dimat al-Gandal, which latter forms the remotest settlement of the Hegsaz. 
Between the aS-Sera’ range and the Sea of Kolzum extends the sandy desert of Tebuk. At 
a turning of the al-Lukkam range to the north is situated Damascus, separated by this 
mountain range from the towns of Sajda’ and Beirut. — 

Ibn Haldtin calls the western edge of the Syrian rift valley al-Lukkam. He sometimes 
refers to al-‘Akaba as a steep slope of this mountain range near the Gulf of al-“-Akaba and 
sometimes as the pilgrims’ station of al-‘Akaba (Ajla) from which the as- Sera’ range extends 
to the east. Ibn Haldtin is thinking of the ‘southernmost part of this range, which, project- 
ing far to the east, bends in a semicircle open towards the east and runs in a northeasterly 
direction. Al-Hegr does not lie to the east but to the south of aS-Sera’; likewise the territory 
of the Tamtd and the desert of Tebaik, which, according to Ibn Haldtn, extends as far as 
the Gulf of al-“Akaba of the Sea of Kolzum. It is interesting that he reckons the oasis of 
Diamat al-Gandal as still forming part of the Hegaz. 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 49 


rift valley of al-‘Araba and the Red Sea. From Umm at-Telage to the 
southwest extend oblong groups of isolated rocks: Hzejbt as-Smé'e, 
al-Gill, Derw as-Sulba, and ar-Rokob. West of them the channel of 
Ammu Sawra twines like a white girdle, its head lying near the spring 
of Fawara, westward from the ruins of Star.16 





Fic. 12—Ruins of Umm at-Telage. 


A small telegraph line has been installed along the left side of the 
Seib of Ammu Sawra, which runs down from the Star pass. This line 
passes the spring of az-Zerafa not far below the pass. Westward from 
the seib of Ammu Sawra can be seen innumerable white dome-shaped 
rocks of the groups Derw as-Saki, Harabt al-‘Abid, and al-Koff. Behind 


16 Saladin marched through our pass of Star. Abu Sama, Rawdatejn (Barbier de Meynard), 
p. 217, relates that on May 11, 1182, Saladin set out from Egypt for Damascus by way of 
Sadr and Ajla and arrived there after five days. Learning that the unbelievers were concen- 
trating their army near al-Kerak in order to obstruct his path, he strengthened his two 
flanks and proceeded from the region of Hesma’ through the pass of Sitar to al-Karjatejn, 
making an incursion into the enemy’s country. Thereafter he marched with the main strength 
of his army along the very border of the al-Kerak territory to al-Hasa’, while his brother, 
Tag al-Mulak Bari, traveled with the noncombatants on his right flank. Within a week 
they had joined at al-Azrak. — 

It would seem that Saladin, when coming from Egypt, followed the ancient transport 
route by way of Sadr to Ajla. Traveling rapidly, he arrived at the latter harbor within five 
days. Thence he took the northeastern branch road to the main transport route by way of 
Ma‘an. From the account given it is clear that he reached the region of Hesma and the 
pass of Star. The branch road in question leads from al-‘Akaba through the Wadi al-Jitm 
to the northwestern corner of the Hesma’ region, whence it ascends through the Star pass 
across the aS-Sera’ range and then follows parallel to this range as far as the oasis of 
Ma‘an, which our report refers to as al-Karjatejn — two settlements — because it comprises 
two villages. From Ma‘an Saladin proceeded with his army along the main south to north 
transport route until he got as far as the station of al-Hasa’ at the head of the wddi bearing 
the same name. From there he moved in a northeasterly direction to the stronghold of 
al-Azrak, where he met his brother. i, 

Jakat, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 3, p. 259, refers to the Sitar pass as lying to the 
east of the Egyptian Pilgrim Road and leading through the as-Sera’ range between the 
regions of al-Belka’ and al-Medina. It leads north into an extensive grassy district, located 
south of al-Kerak, over which loom the Farin mountains. 


50 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


them to the west rises the white, mutilated cone of az-Za‘tar, flanking 
the rocky plain to the north. On the west the plain is bordered by a 
brown mountain range intersected with numerous deep Sseibdan. The parts 
of this range situated west of az-Za‘tar are known as ‘Arkib al-MSejti, 
Rwejs ad-Dukkane, aS-Sunnarijje, and Ktejb az-Zab‘i; while farther to 
the south are Uhejmer, az-Ziblijje, Umm al-‘Azam, Sejker, Msawer, Dnéb, 
Trejbin, Tabakat Kalha, as-Sor, az-Zarntk, al-Mléh, az-Zarba, al-Hegfe, 
Abu Sjejle, al-Hmejra, Ummu Nhejle, and al-Mdajfen, separated from 
Raman by the defile Harm al-Mersed. 


At 2.388 P. M. we started off toward the north through 
fields sown with barley and wheat. After three o’clock we 
entered the valley of al-Bijara, where lie the springs of al- 
‘Anejzi and the ruins of the large settlement of an-Nasara. 
At 3.46 we were at the spring of Abu Krejzat, and at four 
o’clock we were standing by the ruins of the Roman encamp- 
ment at al-Karana (temperature: 21° C). I wished to make 
a sketch plan of this stronghold, which I had visited as far 
back as 1898," but this was not possible. Some of the Hwétat, 
while cultivating the neighboring fields, had set up folds for 
their sheep and goats among the ruins and had removed the 
walls, which had been still preserved in 1898. They were 
encamped about six hundred meters east of al-Karana, near 
the springs of al-Mgawga and Ab-ad-Dtd, and immediately 
came up behind us. As the negro Mhammad was not well 
acquainted with this region, I wanted one of these Hwétat 
to act as our guide, and Isma‘in brought me a man about forty 
years of age who declared that he knew all the hills, springs, 
and ruins from there to Wadi Musa. Wishing to make sure 
of his knowledge, I asked him to point out on the ground 
the directions north and south and, to indicate the position 
of the se%b of az-Zerib, through which the rain water flows 
from al-Karana to the northeast. The poor fellow could not 
distinguish north from south; he described everything situated 
to the north or south of us as being between sunset and 
sunrise. When I declared that he could not go with us because 
he did not know the directions, he asked me to take him 
nevertheless and endeavored to make an exact drawing of 
the se%b of az-Zerib for me. Five times he set about the work, 
and five times he arrived at a different result, being quite 
unable to indicate in the sand the winding course of this valley 
although he could see it in front of him. Finally one of his 
kinsmen who was with him told him to go home, saying that 


17 See Musil, Arabia Petraea, Vol. 2, Part 2, pp. 229—230. 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 51 


he could understand nothing and offering to accompany me 
himself. This man was able to indicate accurately both the 
directions and the names of the various localities. 

Having ascertained our geographical latitude, we started 
off on the march again at 7.55 P. M. Mhammad and Isma‘in 
urged this move, declaring that the Hwétat who were encamped 
near al-Karana were notorious robbers and that they might 
easily steal our things in the night. When I objected that 
we had one of their kinsmen with us as our companion (dw) 
in order to protect us against his tribesmen, Mhammad replied 
that in recent years the Hwetat had ceased to acknowledge 
the rights of the hdwi and that they would rob their own 
fathers. | 

The night was so dark that nothing could be seen at 
a distance of two meters, and the region was covered with 
coarse stones, so that we could not move forward. Therefore 
we halted at 8.18 not far from the spring Bir Hadab, from 
which the road leads westward to the region of Hesma through 
Srejf abu Ralajin over the pass of the same name. 


BIR HADAB TO THE RUINS OF HAMMAD 


On Thursday, June 2, 1910, we started off at 4.49 A. M. 
(temperature: 22° C). On our right lay the two wells of 
‘Attd, each about fifteen meters deep; on the north we 
perceived the extensive ruins of Dak and to the east of 
them, in the valley of ‘Akejka, the springs of al-Ma‘ekel, near 
which ‘Akejka is joined by the se%b proceeding from the 
spring's of al-Mgawéa and al-‘Arejza. At five o’clock, at a point 
not far from Bijar al-Masri, we entered the broad valley of 
‘Akejka, which contains numerous shallow springs with good, 
fresh water. At 5.20 we branched off to the west, near the 
springs of ‘“Akejka, in order to obtain a better view by mount- 
ing the ridge of as-Sera’. Both the valley of ‘Akejka and the 
ridge itself have been converted into fields of wheat and 
barley. The wheat was only just in flower but was plentiful 
and well developed. At 5.40 we had on our right hand the 
entrance to the se%b of al-Fwéri, in which an abundant spring 
gushes out near the ruins of the same name. From 5.47 to 
7.05 we remained among the ruins of al-Gdejjed (tempera- 
ture: 24.2° C), for it is possible to obtain from that point 
a view not only of the Hesma territory but also of the north- 


52 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


eastern part of the as-Sera’ range: The latter was entirely 
covered with dark green plants, which made it resemble an 
endless expanse of grainfields. The lowlands were still covered 
with dark blue shadows, from which the separate peaks rose 
like fabulous monsters. At 7.30 there was a slight shower, 
which, however, did not last long, and at 7.35 near a ruined 
watchtower we crossed the Darb as-Sultani or, as our guide 
called it, as-Sikke, the highroad. 

At the post and telegraph station of al-Kwéra, as-Sikke 
swings off to the northeast and runs alongside the telegraph 
line across the eastern slopes of the se%b of Ammu Sawyra, 
past the mutilated cones of al-Ma‘ejsi, al-Mesarik, al-Hle)jfi, 
and al-Morr to Derw as-Sulba, over which it gains the spur 
of Star. Winding around the western side of the latter, it 
reaches the ridge of aS-Sera’ near the ruins of Star. From 
there it continues in an almost northerly direction through 
the se%tb of Wahadan to the ruins of al-Fwele, Ab-al-Lesel, 
and Mrejjera, after which it trends to the northeast following 
the setib of ad-Dawawi as far as Ma‘an. The telegraph line 
is installed to the east of the road upon the slopes of Swémat 
and Ammu-l-Ksejr. 

At 8.09 we rode through the beginning of the Seib of 
al-Hajjat, which runs towards the ruins of aS-Sdejjid. The 
camels found the crossing quite difficult, as the ridge is cut 
by deep ravines with stony sides, and it was necessary to 
dismount and mount again, no easy task among the shifting 
stones. At 8.35, on the left arm of al-Geman and toward the 
northeast, we perceived the three huge, bare, dome-shaped 
peaks Nebat as-Swémrat situated on the spur of the aS-Sera’ 
range between the ruins of Ab-al-Lesel and Tasan. To the 
west our guide pointed out the spring of al-Kena’, from which 
an aqueduct leads down to the ruins of al-Homejma. 

A tortoise measuring about twenty-five centimeters in 
diameter crawled across our path. We wanted to catch it to 
make soup from it, but our native companions protected the 
animal, saying that it was poisonous. We knew, of course, 
that this was not true, but we did not take the tortoise, not 
wishing to provoke our people unnecessarily. At 9.28 we 
observed the small ruin of Ammu Dijab in a gully on our 
right. 

At 9.40, on the eastern foot of the huge mountain of 
al-Krajje‘e near the shallow well Bir Turki, we met four 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 53 


riders. They were Terabin, who were encamped by the Medi- 
terranean Sea to the south of Gaza and were riding to the 
Saidijjin clan, whose encampment we had seen at 8.09 in 
the se%ib of al-Hajjat, in order to arrive at an agreement 
concerning the consequences of a crime. A fellow tribesman 
of theirs had killed a member of the Terabin and had fled 
to the Sa‘idijjin to save his life. He had offered blood money 
to the avengers of the murdered man; the offer was accepted, 
and the dead man’s relatives were now riding to meet him 
with his surety, for the purpose of collecting the stipulated 
amount. 

At 9.50 we entered the Roman highroad which leads from 
the ruins of al-Homejma along the aqueduct as far as the 
spring of al-Kena’ and along the southern slope of al-Krajje‘e 
to the ridge of aS-Sera’. On the elevation of at-Turra, to the 
left, there lay a great heap of stones, Ab-an-Nstr, the remains 
of a watchtower. At 10.09 the guide showed me the ruins 
of al-Baradijje to the east and, to the northeast of them in 
a steep rocky wall, the cave of Harabt ammu Sanajeh. From 
10.24 to 12.20 the camels satisfied their hunger with ‘azam 
plants, while we drew a sketch map of the surrounding 
country (temperature: 27.5° C). From here on the journey 
was even more troublesome than before. The ravines became 
deeper and deeper, their sides more and more precipitous, 
so that we were obliged to lead the camels. If one of the 
animals began to gallop, it lost the articles hung from the 
saddle, or else its load slipped over to one side, and we had 
to collect the lost articles or put the load straight again. 
The Roman highroad branched off of our route in a north- 
northeasterly direction, leading south of the ruins of Tasan 
to those of Swémre and there turning off northward past 
al-Krén and Zor to the ruins of as-Sadaka. At 12.40 P. M. 
we descended into a deep basin in which there are numerous 
caves, Harab ad-Dukkan (temperature: 30.2° C). 

At one o’clock, having ‘Ajn az-Zwejde on our left hand, 
we made our way cautiously down to the large spring ‘Ajn 
Burka (Fig. 13), where we remained from 1.30 to 4.15. Below 
the spring a rectangular pool had been constructed from large 
hewn stones, into which the water flowed and from which 
it was distributed over the surrounding gardens. The pool, 
however, was entirely clogged up, and there remained nothing 
of the gardens save the small walls which were built to keep 


54 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


the fertile soil from being washed away. The Meraj‘e clan, 
belonging to the Hwetat, was encamped north of the spring 
and close beside them stood several tents of the Kabala aise 
of the Sa‘idijjin tribe. ** 





Fic. 13—From ‘Ajn Burka looking north. 


Before long we were surrounded not only by the men 
but also by the women and children, who meddled with our 
things and asked inquisitively who we were, what we were 
selling and buying, and where we were going. Fearing that 
some of our camels might be driven away from us, we divided 
ourselves into two groups, one of which mounted guard over 
the camels and the other over the baggage. I did not wish 
to start off until I had found a reliable guide. We were 
anxious to proceed through the rocky territory of the Kabala 
clan to the ruins of al-Homejma, and we needed a Sa‘ idi not 
only to show us the road and tell us the names of the various 
places but also to protect us from his fellow-tribesmen and 
from the rapacious ‘Alawin, to whom al-Homejma belongs. 
After lengthy negotiations I hired a guide, and at 4.15 we 
were able to start off. Isma‘in and Mhammad heaped abuse 


18 See Musil, Arabia Petraea, Vol. 3, p. 46. 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 55 


on the Sa‘idijjin because they had not negotiated with us as 
with guests but had begged from us not only tobacco and 
coffee but also rice, flour, and other articles of food. As 
a result, we did not warm up any coffee while we were with 
them, and it was for this that the negro Mhammad in par- 
ticular had a great hankering. 

Wishing to refresh ourselves a little and to make a sketch 
of the surrounding district, we remained at the spring of 
al-Gwejbe from 4.32 to five o’clock. South of the spring, on 
the slope of aS-Sera’, are situated the ruins of al-Ghejjer.* 

To the north of al-Ghejjer, above the ruins of Delara, 
there rises a huge mountain, al-Hadab, behind which the hills 
of Krént az-Zejjat run from south to north, with, to the 
west of them, the broken dome of al-Hawla which separates 
the deep se%b of Abu Rarab from the mountains of Sebib 
and Ammu Rwejsat. The large mountain of M‘awwal al-‘Azab, 
which is almost table-shaped, merges to the south with Rwejs 
ad-Dukkane and aS-Sunnarijje. Between the two latter moun- 
tains a footpath leads through the al-‘Ekejrbe pass to Wadi 
Rarandel. To the west and south the se%b of al--Egane en- 
circles ‘Arkub al-MSejti and joins with al-Mwéleh. 

At 5.06 P. M. in a deep, rocky ravine on our left, we 
saw the spring of Abu Hsejje gushing out from under a steep 
wall of rock. The descent to this ravine was very troublesome. 
Two of the camels threw off their loads and ran away, and 
we had to carry the loads after them until we caught them. 
From the ravine we descended southwest of the spring and 
ruins of al-Ghejjer to the Se%b of al-Gmejl, through which 
we reached the broad valley of Abu Rarab, where we encamped 
at 6.55 at the foot of Rwejs ad-Dukkane (temperature: 29.5° C). 
Taking the guide with me, I proceeded to the ruins of Hammad 
(or Hamad), situated about three kilometers to the north 
and forming the remains of a large village on the right-hand 
side of the above-mentioned valley. Among the ruined houses 
which now serve as a graveyard, there is a small shrine, 
al-Weli Hammad, to which the Sa‘idijjin make pilgrimages. 
The guide said that there was a large stone with inscriptions 
near the shrine, which he wished me to see, but it turned 
out to be merely a large slab of rock covered with tribal 
¢ 19 Al-Ja‘kdbi, T'a’rih (Houtsma), Vol. 2, p. 385, writes that the Omayyads dwelt in al- 
Guhajjer between al-Humajma and Adruh in the administrative region of Damascus. — In 


the text it is incorrectly printed al-HHJR. Our al-Ghejjer is situated on the road from 
al-Humajma to Adruh. 


56 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


tokens (awsdm). The night was quite cold, as a moist west 
wind was blowing. 


RUINS OF HAMMAD TO AL-HOMEJMA 


On Friday, June 3, 1910, we led our camels in a south- 
erly direction from 4.42 A. M. to 5.28 (temperature: 12°C). 
As far as the well of at-Tarif the road was very try- 
ing, as it wound among large boulders and fragments of 
rock, which often completely filled the river bed. The well 
Bir at-Tarif, situated almost exactly on the watershed between 
the valleys of Abu Rarab and al-Jitm, is about three meters 
deep and four meters broad and contains pure fresh water. 
Eastward of it rise several piles of rock, the ruins of an old 
building, to the northeast of which can be seen the yawning 
black mouths of the Harab al-Bhejra caves. 

At 5.30 we rode through the broad hollow of al-Mesann, 
which on the left joins the Se%b of at-Tarif. A few meters 
farther to the south we saw the remains of a broad dam by 
which the se%tb had been transformed into a capacious rain 
pond. From the left-hand side of this pond the water passed 
through a narrow canal into gardens that were laid out in 
terraces. To the south we could see the Hesma territory, ly- 
ing at a great depth beneath us and swathed in a dense coy- 
ering of morning mists, from which projected only the highest 
peaks, cones, pyramids, obelisks, and numerous other forms 
which the isolated rocks assumed. The rays of the rising sun 
struck upon them so that it seemed as if their angular faces were 
burning. In the river bed of at-Tarif grow ratam shrubs and 
low Sth. On the slopes ‘Arktb al-MSejti, as well as on al-Mrejbet 
and az-Za‘tar, there are supporting walls of varying length, 
the remains of old gardens. At six o’clock we rode along the 
right-hand side of the river bed at the foot of the granite ridge 
of al-Mrejbet, as we wished to avoid the numerous short ra- 
vines running down from the soft limestone slopes of az-Za‘tar. 
These are twenty to thirty meters deep, scarcely three meters 
broad at the bottom, and their sides are formed of yellowish 
clay and soft white limestone. Suddenly the river bed leaves 
the foot of al-Mrejbet and cuts through the soft limestone in 
a gorge about fifty meters deep. At 6.48 A.M. we made our 
way into it near the spring of al-Helwa, which gushes out 
from the left-hand side and fills numerous pools (Figs. 14, 15). 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 





HiGr15 


Fig. 14—From al-Helwa looking north. 
Fria. 15—From al-Helwa looking south. 


57 


58 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


The Se%b of al-Helwa joins ar-Rekijje and comes to an end, 
under the name of a&-Sebibi, in the rift valley of al‘Araba 
near Mount az-Ziblijje. 

Our party remained at the well of al-Helwa from 6.48 
to 10.45. Meanwhile, accompanied by the guide, TaOman and 





Fic. 16—From al-Homejma looking toward the range of as-Sera’. 


I clambered on to the southern peak of Mount az-Za‘tar, 
where we did some cartographical work. On our return we 
found that our companions were ready for departure. Having 
led the camels out upon the left-hand slope of al-Béza, we 
crept down the broken ridges of rock, picking our way among 
white boulders, until at last we came out upon a white, un- 
dulating plain at 11.06. We caught sight of a pile of old 
buildings to the west, on our right, and came upon the Roman 
highroad, here regularly paved for a distance of about two 
hundred meters. Near it there stood three broken pillars, 
possibly the remains of Roman mileposts. I could see no in- 
scription on them, as they were made of soft limestone which 
has been largely decomposed. At 11.31 we rode round the 
ruined bridge that spans the se%b of Ammu Ditde. This se%b 
forms a broad but shallow trough between white rocks, which 
gleamed so brilliantly in the sun’s rays that they seemed 
white-hot. The separate channels attain a depth as great as 
ten meters and are shut in by steep banks. The whole geological 
configuration resembles that of Wadi Musa especially in its 
northern area near al-Béda. After 11.42 we rode alongside 
the aqueduct, which is said to lead from the copious well of 
al-Kena’ and rises only a very little above the plain. The 
lower wall is 70 cm. broad, the trench being 15 cm. deep and 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 59 


40 em. broad. South of the aqueduct there stretches a low- 
land which could be transformed into fields. The remains of 
old field and garden walls extend as far as the ruins of al- 
Homejma, which we reached at 12.42 P. M. (temperature: 
20. 58GI. 





Fic. 17—From al-Homejma looking south. 


These ruins cover the eastern and southern foot of the 
elevation of Umm al-‘Azam as well as the surrounding lowland 
for several square kilometers; but not a single building has 
been preserved (Figs. 16, 17). The soft limestone of which they 
were constructed has collapsed, so that the isolated buildings 
are now reduced to whitish-yellow heaps of soft powdery 
lime. If these heaps were excavated, apartments would cer- 
tainly be found intact beneath the crumbling limestone, and 
in them possibly various monuments as well. There are nu- 
merous capacious artificial reservoirs for rain water that are 
not more than half covered. In every building were installed 
pyriform cisterns, where the ‘Alawin conceal chaff and corn. 
Inasmuch as some of the buildings are constructed in a style 
which resembles that of the ruined houses at Wadi Masa, it 
may be inferred with certainty that al-Homejma was also 
built by the Nabataeans, and for this reason I locate here 
the Nabataean city of Auara.”° 


*0 Al-Homejma obtained its name from the white color of the rocks and soil which 
prevail in its environs. In Aramaic and Arabic this white color is designated also by the 
word hawwdra, which the natives often interchange with Homejma, and I conjecture that 
these ruins were originally called Hawwara. 

According to Uranius, Arabica (Miiller, Fragmenta, Vol. 4), p. 523 (Stephen of 
Byzantium, Ethnica [Meineke], Vol. 1, p. 144) the Arabie city of Auara obtained its name 
from a prophecy which was communicated to the Nabataean king Obodas (about 93 B. C.) 
by his son Aretas. The latter was to seek a place which was white, or auara, as white is 
called in Syriac and Arabic. While occupied with this task, there appeared to him a white 
man ona white camel who thereafter suddenly disappeared. The searcher then perceived the 


60 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Having inspected the ruins, I proceeded to the hills of 
Umm al-‘Azam, as I supposed that I should certainly find a 
necropolis there, but my search was in vain. For two hours 
I scrambled from hill to hill, making my way through deep 
gaps, and in the Se%b of al-Hazar I found numerous stone 
quarries and artificially smooth- 
ed walls of rock, but I did not 
see a single rock tomb. My 
endeavors won me nothing but 
a brief inscription in Greek and 
Nabataean. As I was returning, 
I heard a shot. It was an alarm 
signal with which my native 
companions were recalling me. 
Running out from the rocks, 
I saw my companions and the 
camels surrounded by a crowd 
of the ‘Alawin (Fig. 18). The 
latter had been reaping barley 
southeast of al-Homejma and, 
hearing of our arrival, had rush- 
ed up to my baggage, where 
they were begging for food 
and presents from Serif and 
Fic. 18—An ‘Alawi and our guide. Mhammad. Mhammad despised 

them and had warned me a- 
gainst them even before we had encamped at al-Homejma, 
declaring that they were all rogues. “Those of them who 
are strong, steal; those who are weak, beg (kawwihom 








portion of a tree trunk rooted in a certain place. It was upon this spot that Obodas founded 
the city of Auara. — As this narrative does not contain the slightest reference to the sea 
and the harbor city of Leukekome (Auara in Syriac and Arabic), which was known before 
Obodas’ time, I would identify Uranius’ city of Auara with the city of Auara which Ptolemy, 
Geography, V,17: 5, places in Arabia Petraea and which, according to the Tabula Peutingeriana 
(Vienna, 1888), sheet 8, was situated on the highroad from Aila to Petra and is identical 
with our ruins of al-Homejma. 

Notitia Dignitatum (Seeck), Oriens, 34, Nos. 12 and 25, refers to a place Hauare or 
Hauanae in Palestine, which contained a garrison of mounted native bowmen. 

Assemanus, Bibliotheca Orientalis, Vol. 3, Part 2, fol. 593, notes, according to Nilus 
Doxopatrius (1143 A. D.), that in the sixth century of our era the bishopric of Avara be- 
longed to the metropolitanate of Bostra. 

Al-Ja‘ktbi, Ta’rih (Houtsma), Vol. 2, p. 347, relates that in the year 713—714 A. D. 
al-Walid I set out for the settlement of al-Humajma in the district of aS-Sera’, which was 
situated in the administrative region of Damascus. The mother of Salit ibn ‘Abdallah ibn 
‘Abbas complained to him that ‘Ali ibn ‘Abdallah had killed her son and buried him in 
a garden in which he lived, and had built a little shop above his grave. Al-Walid punished him 
for it. ‘Ali settled down permanently in al-Humajma, and his children also remained there 
until Allah entrusted them with authority over the Moslems. 

Al-Mas‘idi, Tanbih (De Goeje), p. 838, records that in the year 716—717 A. D. the 
Alide pretender Abu-l-HasSem proceeded to the Caliph Sulejmfn ibn ‘Abdalmalek, from whom 
he departed with rich gifts to al-Medina. While on the road poison was administered to him. 
When it began to take effect, he hastened to the Abbasside Muhammed ibn ‘Ali — who, 


MA‘AN TO AL-HOMEJMA 61 


nahhab, zaifhom sahhdd).” I was unwilling, and indeed un- 
able, to give them food, as we did not know when we should 
reach Tebtk, where we could obtain fresh supplies. When 
Mhammad, a servant of the chief ‘Awde abu Tajeh, to whom 
the “Alawin were in the habit of sending gifts, offended 
them by his words and gestures, they wanted to drive away 
our camels, declaring that they damaged their corn. Isma‘in, 
who was guarding the camels, was unable to keep them off 
and had fired a shot for help. Running up to the disputants 
I endeavored to pacify both sides and after a while succeeded. 
We should have liked to move on, but Rif‘at had not yet 
returned. When at last he came running back, he pointed 
to his half-torn clothing and explained that among the rocks 
to the west he had been attacked by shepherds and robbed 
of everything he had. Not until an older man came up to 
the shepherds and explained to them whence we came and 
that we had a soldier (‘askari) with us, did they restore a 
few things to him. 





according to some, was then living in al-Humajma but, according to others, at Kdar in the 
aS-Sera’ range, in the district al-Belka’ of the administrative area of Damascus — and 
renounced all claims to the Caliphate in favor of his son. — 

Following the manuscript L (London) of the Tanbih I identify the dwelling place of 
the Abbassides, or Beni ‘Abbas, mentioned in connection with al-Homejma, with the region 
of Kdtr situated east of al-Homejma, in the southern part of aS-Sera’ near the highroad 
leading to al-Medina. 

‘ Al-Ja‘ktbi, Buldédn (De Goeje, 2nd edit.), p. 826, refers to al-Humajma as in the as- 
Sera’ range. 

Al-Bekri (died 1094 A.D.), Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), pp. 83, 284, states that al-Humajma is 
a place in Syria. When ‘Ali ibn ‘Abdallah ibn ‘Abbas emigrated to Syria, he settled in al- 
Humajma and built a strongly fortified house there. 

Jakat, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 2, p. 342, mentions al-Humajma as a settlement 
in the aS-Sera’ region on the Syrian border, which belonged to the administrative area of 
‘Amman. He states that the Abbasside dynasty dwelt there before they obtained possession 
of the government. AS-Sera’ was the name of the district in which the settlement al-Humajma 
lay. — The ruins, however, are not situated in the asS-Sera’ range but upon its border in 
the Hesma’ region. 

Abu-l-Feda’, Takwim (Reinaud and De Slane), pp. 228—229, asserts that in the neigh- 
borhood of the aS-Sera’ range there is a settlement, al-Humajma, from which the Abbassides 
departed in order to obtain possession of the Caliphate in Irak. The village of al-Humajma 
is situated a day’s distance from Sowbak. 


G ECA PT Reali 


AL-HOMEJMA TO AL-“AKABA 


AL-HOMEJMA TO HARM AL-MERSED 


At 4.25 P. M. we left al-Homejma and proceeded south- 
ward over the plain of Harhtra alongside the broad channel 
of as-Sih. The plain to the east of the channel was planted 
in places with crops of wheat and barley. Between the various 
fields there are small clumps of shrubbery formed of ratam, 
rimt, and thorny silla. On the west side rise the steep granite 
rocks of Sejker, cut by the se%tb of Rihan from Msawer and 
Dneb, on the northern side of which gushes forth the spring 
of Abu ‘Agarem. To the south of the Rihan se%b the peak of 
as-Sor rises above a flat-topped rocky upland and behind it 
the two prisms Tabakat Kalha. 

Toward 7.35 we caught the sounds of loud conversation 
and the melancholy strains of the rebaba (rebec or single- 
stringed viol), and before long we noticed the smell of brandy, 
for we were drawing near to the Post and Telegraph station 
of al-Kwéra, beside which we encamped at eight o’clock. We 
were surrounded by a number of men, who in correct and 
broken Arabic asked us who we were and where we were 
going. Isma‘in replied to their questions, whereupon they 
brought us fuel so that Serif could cook the supper. In the 
meantime we ascertained the latitude (temperature: 14.2° C). 
After supper we were obliged to take part in the conversation 
and hence could not retire to rest until after midnight. 

On Saturday, June 4, 1910, we remained at al-Kwéra until 
the afternoon. This ancient Roman stronghold has been newly 
populated. The telegraph line from Ma‘an to al-‘Akaba runs 
around it. In 1908 a house was begun west of the strong- 
hold for the use of the telegraph and postal official, but the 
building was not yet completed, as the ceiling and roof were 
wanting. In consequence, the official and his assistants lived 
under canvas in the courtyard of the old stronghold. About 
one-third of the stronghold was cleared of débris, and the 
small corner rooms were cleaned out and furnished for use 
as a Shelter in the rainy season (Figs. 19, 20, 21). The of- 

62 


AL-HOMEJMA TO AL--AKABA 


63 





PIG. 19 





Fic. 20 


Fic. 19—Al-Kwéra from the east. 
Fic. 20—Al-Kwéra from the southeast. 


64 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


ficial received 470 piasters ($21.15) per month, from which 
he had to feed himself, his family residing at Ma‘an, and 
the horse which carried him on his tours of inspection of 
the telegraph poles. It was no wonder that he complained 
of suffering from hunger. All food supplies for al-Kweéra 
had to be conveyed from Ma‘an or al-‘Akaba, and they were 
dear. The official was assisted by three telegraph inspectors, 
who patrolled the line from Ab-al-Lesel on the northeast 
to the end of Wadi al-Jitm 
on the southwest. An ombdsi 
(corporal, non-commissioned 
officer) and six men of the 
regular army guarded the sta- 
tions and telegraph lines. Every 
day they brought water on an 
ass from the spring of al-AShab, 
which flows out about six kilo- 
meters to the west at the foot 
of the granite mountain of 
al-Hegfe. About one hundred 
meters south of the station 
there rises a low, red, sandy 
hill, bearing the remains of an 
old wall. More extensive ruins, 
perhaps those of a watchtower, 
are noticeable upon a _ table- 
Fic. 21—In the Roman camp, shaped hill northeast of the 
al-Kwéra. stronghold. This small table- 
shaped hill, which is called 
kwéra (diminutive of kdra, isolated table-shaped hill), gave 
the ruins of the stronghold their name.”' 





21 The Roman highroad is clearly distinguishable near the station of al-Kwéra. The 
part of it which leads from Syria east of the Dead Sea to the harbor of Aila is defined as 
far as the station of Zadagatta (as-Sadaka). From Zadagatta to al-Homejma only the general 
direction can be determined. From al-Homejma to the lower end of the deep Wadi al-Jitm 
numerous mileposts have been preserved from the time of the Emperors Constantine and 
Constans, which establish the fact that the Roman military road was constructed through 
this wddi and did not branch off through any Se%b winding down to the rift valley of al- 
“Araba between al-Jitm and Zadagatta. The Tabula Peutingeriana (Vienna, 1888), sheet 10, 
shows a single highroad running from the harbor of Haila (Aila) to the north, which, at 
the mark indicating the station of Ad Dianam, divides into two branches: a western one 
proceeding toward Palestine and an eastern one to Zadagatta. It is questionable whether 
the Tabula Peutingeriana has accurately represented this division. The red line denoting 
a new branch road on this map frequently either joins the main road too far to one side 
or the other of the actual junction, and is thus assigned to the wrong station, or else forms 
a crossroad where there is none. It is possible that, in this case also, the red line of the 
Syrian road was placed too high and the station of Ad Dianam was thus turned into a junction 
point. In this respect it is very striking that Aila, where the tenth Legio Fretensis encamped, 
has no special symbol, while the entirely unknown station of Ad Dianam bears the symbol 
of a temple, although it is only the chief cities that are supplied with symbols on other parts 


AL-HOMEJMA TO AL-“AKABA 65 


Early in the morning we sent a scout to procure us a good 
guide from the camp of the ‘Alawin situated near the defile 
Harm al-Mersed. Taman and Rif‘at, accompanied by a soldier, 
set out for the peak of al-Ml]éh, rising to the northwest, south 
of which there is a spring of the same name; whereas another 
spring called Abu Turrah flows to the northwest of al-MlJéh. 
Meanwhile I changed the photographic plates, sketched the 
surrounding district, recorded the names of the various hills 
and valleys, and gave out necessary medicines to the soldiers. 
Toward noon the scout returned with a guide. The chief of 
the ‘Alawin, Salem eben Hammad eben GAd, wished to accom- 
pany us and wanted to take with him his negro and another 
man, but I would not consent to this latter plan, fearing that 
these famished and unnecessary companions would be likely 
to deprive us of our small stock of supplies. At first Salem 
remonstrated. However, when Isma‘in told him that if he went 
by himself he would obtain the remuneration which would 
otherwise be divided among three, he ordered his two com- 
panions to go back to camp. In the afternoon Mhammad with 
two scouts led our camels to the spring of al-AShab, not 
returning until three o’clock. Rif‘at and Taman had been back 
for some time, and we had everything ready for our depar- 
ture. Having loaded the baggage on the camels, we started off 
at 3.08 for a lengthy march southward along the trade route. 

The level plain of al-Hmejza, over which we passed, is 
shut in on the west by the granite wall of the Abu Sjejle 
mountain, while on the east it gives place to numerous iso- 
lated, sandy hills of various shapes, among them Salaka, Abu 
Halktm, ar-Ruhbi, al-Mhartk, ar-Ratama, ‘Atra’, ‘Emdd, al- 
Hsani, and al-Ahejmer. At 4.02 we crossed the Se%b of 
Abu Sjejle, which starts at the well of the same name on 





of the map. The symbol indicating a temple at the station of Ad Dianam perhaps originated 
from the fact that Adian — the Semitic name of the station — was twisted into Ad Dianam 
by the designer and that either he or a copyist drew a symbol belonging properly to the 
military camp and harbor of Aila in such a way as to make it apply to the neighboring 
station of Ad Dianam, which it transformed into a temple. The red line of the Syrian high- 
road bends off to the south after its division from the Palestinian line. This bend tallies 
perfectly with the actual state of things. 

From the station of Zadagatta to the city of Aila, by way of Ad Dianam, is represented 
as 81,000 paces, or about 120 kilometers, while the actual length of the Roman road with 
all its turnings is not more than 64,000 paces, or 95 kilometers. If we exclude the 16,000 paces 
from Ad Dianam to Aila and reckon the distance direct, assuming that the roads diverged 
at Aila, we obtain 65,000 paces, which accords with the actual distance (approximately 
64,000 paces). The positions of the two stations Hauarra and Praesidio can be determined 
accurately. At 20,000 paces from Zadagatta (the modern as-Sadaka) we reach the spring 
of al-Béza’ and the extensive ruins of the city of al-Homejma. Everything indicates that this 
city was built by the Nabataeans and thus antedates the Roman epoch. It controlled the most 
convenient and the shortest road leading from the south along the western foot of the as- 
Sera’ range to the city of Petra. The name Hauarra has the same signification as al-Béza’ 
or al-Homejma. From the northern part of the ruins of al-Homejma the Roman road runs 


66 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


the border of the rocks of al-He&fe and Abu Sjejle. At 4.28 
we arrived at the telegraph line. Twenty-four telegraph poles 
for an unknown reason had been set up in a southeasterly 
direction from al-Kwéra, and only the farther poles were 
directed to the southwest. At 4.53 we left the trade route 
and at 5.05 came upon the watercourse of Btajjehat, which 
joins Wadi al-Jitm. To the west there yawned the black se%b 
of al-Filk, which comes from the well of al-Ktejfe and sepa- 
rates Abu Sjejle from al-Hmejra. Both sides of the water- 
course of al-Btajjehat, as well as all the slopes inclining to 
the east, are covered with soft sand in which there is an 
abundant growth of raza. Among the green shrubs of raza 
a flock of sheep and goats were grazing, and our guide Salem 
dragged a fat ram to us. 

We entered the broad, sheer defile Harm al-Mersed, which 
rises to the south between the granite rocks of al-Mdajfen 
on the west and ‘Attd on the east. The western half of this 
defile was covered with a growth of raza shrubs (Fig. 22), 
beneath which we encamped at 6.08 P.M. Our camels munch- 
ed nothing but raza, which they had not tasted for many 
months, perhaps even for many years, as in the land of the 
Hwetat the raga is found only in isolated spots. The chief, 
Salem, killed the ram, skinned it, cut up the meat, hacked 
the bones, and Serif and Isma‘in stewed it in all the utensils 
which we had with us. They had plenty of fuel, because the 
stout, dry trunks and branches of the raza burned well and 
slowly. Salem baked the liver and lungs in the ashes. He 
wound up the intestines, buried them in the sand, divided 


a a distance ‘of twenty- -one kilometers to the Roman fort of al-Kwéra. This stronghold was built 
to the south of a low, isolated, table-shaped rock, generally called kara (diminutive kwéra), upon 
which are situated the ruins of the Nabataean fortress. The distance of twenty-one kilometers 
makes 14,000 paces, whereas the Tabula Peutingeriana gives it as 24,000 paces. It is well 
known, however, that the figures indicating distances on the Tabula Peutingeriana have been 
very unsatisfactorily preserved. We have, therefore, every reason to suppose that an in- 
accurate ‘‘xxiiii’” came from a correct ‘‘xiiii’’ — an easy error in Roman figures. Hence al-Kwéra 
would seem to be the Roman station of Praesidio. Beyond al-Kwéra the Roman road turns 
off from the cultivated lowland into the deep WAdi al-Jitm surrounded by granite mountains, 
passes through it southward to a point nearly due east of Aila, thereupon turns to the 
northwest, leaves the wddi about five kilometers north of Aila, and then turning again south 
arrives at Aila at a distance of forty-five kilometers from al-Kwéra. This distance should 
not be 21,000 paces, as given on the Tabula Peutingeriana, but 30,000. The Roman figure 

‘xx’? is on the left and the figure ‘‘i” on the right of the red line; this figure ‘‘i,’”” however, 
is so short that it resembles the stroke of an ‘‘x’”’ rather than an ‘‘i.”’ On this road there 
actually is no place for the station of Ad Dianam, whereas on the Palestine road Ad Dianam 
would correspond to the Semitic Adian (Radjan), a town which was located 32 kilometers, 
or exactly 21,000 paces, north of Aila on the eastern border of al-‘Araba (see Musil, Arabia 
Petraca; Vo0la2. bartelsepee DL). 

The station of al-Kwéra is situated at the crossing of two important ancient transport 
routes. One ran from Madian in the south to ancient Petra in the north; the second led in 
a northeasterly direction from the harbor of Aila (the modern al-‘Akaba) by way of Nakb 
as-Star to Ma‘an. I hold the opinion that the Israelites followed the former road to Kade, 
near Petra, and, returning, branched off on the second road to Mount Se‘ir, Ma‘an, and 
farther on to Moab (see below, pp. 267—272). 





AL-HOMEJMA TO AL-‘AKABA 67 


the fire above them, turned them twice, and then proceeded 
to feast on them. After supper he lit a small fire, placed 
a can of strong coffee near it, called for a handful of tobacco, 
sat down by the fire, and smoked and drank coffee until dawn. 





Fic. 22—Harm (defile of) al-Mersed. 


HARM AL-MERSED TO AL-KNENESIJJE 


On Sunday, June 5, 1910, we were in the saddle again 
at 5.08 (temperature: 15.2°C) and made our way southward 
through the defile of al-Mersed. To the west rise the rocks 
of al-Mdajfen and to the east those of ‘Atad. They both 
consist of vertical, black granite ribs, over which are layers 
of yellowish limestone, gnawed and consumed by the action 
of rain, wind, heat, and cold. Lying in the defile there are 
large pieces of limestone that have broken away. At 5.20, 
through the gap in al-Mdajfen, we caught sight of the sharp 
obelisks formed by the granite mountains of at-Till, to the 
southwest, northeast of which were the broad summits Rwésat 
al-Halde and to the south the huge pyramid of Baker. The 
reflected rays of the rising sun seemed to glance off all these 
peaks in showers. At 5.384 we crossed the path leading east- 


68 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


ward to the water of al-Muhalleba. At 5.50 Salem pointed 
out on a granite slope to the left the spring of Sam‘al and 
to the right on another slope the well of Hawara, the water 
of which is said to be particularly fresh. Here the raza shrubs 
ceased; but in place of them the plain was covered with sth, 
gerad, ‘agram, danabnab, ba‘ejtran, nasi, keysum, harmal 
(known also as hargal), nates, wrdka, nikd, silla, and also, 
as an isolated growth, kalh. At 6.30 we saw to the left the 
broad gap of Mojet Raman and to the right the deep se%b 
of Abu Neda’. The Mojet Raman gap leads along the southern 
foot of Mount Raman to the plain of al-Krejnife, separating 
Raman from Mount Ramm with its countless sharp-pointed 
pyramids. At 7.10 we passed out of the defile and viewed 
to the southeast the high pyramids shining with a ruddy 
glow and the isolated, broken cones called as-Sarabit. 

The mighty Ramm, or Iram, revealed itself in all its beau- 
ty. The broad plain Hawr Ramm, which separates its south- 
eastern part, known as al-Barra, from the northwestern al- 
Mazmar and Umm ‘Asrin, makes it seem as if the mountain 
range of Iram had been split in two. The southeastern half 
is higher than the northwestern and has an almost level ridge, 
from which rise innumerable small, sharp-pointed pyra- 
mids, so that from a distance it resembles a huge, mysteri- 
ous fortress. In the northern part are the springs of al-Kwej- 
se, as-Sbah, al-Mrejra, Abu Rmejle, and al-‘Agelin. 

At eight o’clock we reached the watershed and halted 
below the hill Klejb al-Mersed, from which I drew a map of 
the surrounding district (temperature: 25° C). 

The eastern part of the Raman mountain is called Rarntik and 
borders on the plain of al-Krejnife, which extends between it and the 
Ramm group. To the southwest al-Krejnife is enclosed by Mount al-Kattar, 
south of which a rocky plain gradually rises to the southwest, the 
southern part of the plain being called al-Morar. To the east al-Morar 
extends as far as the ridge of al-Abrak, to the southeast as far as 
al-Birde, while to the south it merges into the plains of as-Sardan and 
Hawr Geris, north of the mighty ridge of az-Zahr which runs from north 
to south. To the east of the plain of al-Morar rise the rocks of Ammu 
Mktr and Umm Gasar, and to the north of these al-Mharrak and 
al-Hadad. To the west of Klejb al-Mersed stretches the long elevation 
of al-Mrejwez, separated by the se%b of al-Ma‘nan from the higher 
ar-Ratawa. 

While here, the camels grazed on the gerad and the high 
swdas, Similar to the kalh. At 10.45 A. M. we made our way 
still farther southward. 


AL-HOMEJMA TO AL-~“AKABA 69 


Klejb al-Mersed and al-Barra form the southern border 
of the ‘Alawin, the tribe to which our guide Salem belonged. 
Also called Hweétat eben Gad,22 they number about fifty tents 
and comprise the following clans: 


Swelhin al-Farragin 
Makable as-Srurijjin 
al-Mahamid al-Menage‘e 
al-Bdul al-Kidman 
as-Skur al-“Awasa’ 
al-Hzerat as-Sallamat 
as-Sallamin al-Rajalin. 


The ‘Alawin paid no taxes but received from the Turkish 
Government an annual grant of five hundred English pounds. 
The Egyptian Mameluke sultans, and later the Turkish rulers, 
had formerly paid them this money in return for their pro- 
tection of the pilgrims journeying from Egypt by way of al- 
‘Akaba to al-Medina and Mecca; but after the construction of 
the Suez Canal the Government discontinued the payments, 
as the pilgrims from Egypt no longer passed through the 
desert but took ship to Jidda or Raber. However, those who 
still journeyed through the desert continued to pay personally 
for their protection. In 1898 the tribes encamped southwest of 
Ma‘an began a revolt against the Turks and wished to transfer 
their allegiance to Egypt. In order to win them over, the 
Turkish Government consented to grant gifts of money in 
individual cases and recommenced the annual payment of five 
hundred English pounds to the ‘Alawin. 

Salem urged me to take a guide from among the ‘Imran, 
who would protect us from his predatory friends. It should 
be explained that each tribe regards the neighboring tribe 
as more thievish than itself. 

The defile of al-Mersed is enclosed to the south by the 
uplands of Shejb al-Araneb and Smejr as-Sebihi. Avoiding 
these uplands, we entered a capacious basin sloping towards 
the south, in which, near the well of Abu Sjejle, we per- 
ceived several camels belonging to the Samsan clan of the 
‘Imran. After a while we were joined by an old man with a 
good-humored expression, whom Salem recommended to me 
as guide. This was Hammad, the chief of the Samsan. On 
his head he wore a black and threadbare kerchief, while his 
body was clothed only in a tattered black shirt, which he 


22 See Musil, Arabia Petraea, Vol. 3, pp. 54—55. 


70 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


carefully concealed under his new red and yellow cloak, receiv- 
ed a few days before as a gift from the new kajymakam at 
al--Akaba. No Bedouin would have bought a garment of such 
a color. When, however, the Sultan at Constantinople selected 
this garment for Hammad and sent it to him by his official, 
Hammad could not refuse the gift, for Mawlana-s-Sultan (Our 
Lord the Sultan) knew well what would be most fitting for 
the chief of the Samsan. Entering into conversation with him, 
I discovered that he was familiar with the art of giving di- 
rections and distances and that he had a wide knowledge of 
local place names. In consequence I hired him as a guide. 
As we were drawing near his camp, he seized my camel by 
the bridle and implored me to dismount at his tent as a guest 
sent by Allah. Not wishing to squander time unnecessarily, 
I extolled his lavishness and hospitality in high-flown words 
and asked him to excuse me on this occasion, adding that I 
would perhaps rest in his tent on my return. 

Inquiring about ruins, I discovered that there are no 
remains of old buildings in the territory of the ‘Imran, but 
was told that southeast of us there were the caves Morar 
“Antar, constructed in the same extensive and beautiful man- 
ner as those at Wadi Musa (Petra). After Hammad had giv- 
en me an exact description of these caves, we branched off 
to the east at 12.45 in order to inspect them. We rode through 
a Seib, broad in most places but made so narrow in spots 
by the encroachment of the sandstone hills that the water- 
course can scarcely penetrate it, and therefore called az-Zjejke 
(the gorge) (Fig. 23). The banks are steep walls and remind- 
ed me of Sik Wadi Misa. The rays of the sun were reflect- 
ed from the brown rocks, and the white sand which here and 
there formed extensive drifts was so dazzling that it was 
impossible to look at it. My right eye pained me; the lid was 
swollen, and the veins in the white of the eye were blood- 
shot. At 1.25 P. M., from a high rock, we perceived to the 
west on the right-hand side of Wadi Jitm al-‘Imran (or al- 
‘Emran) the dark-tinted mountain of az-Zab‘i; the flat ridge 
of Lebenan les opposite, on the left side of the wddi. To 
the south of us rose the black, worn, granite rock of al-HeSim, 
near which there flows a scanty spring; while south of us 
towered the isolated summit of al-Mkasseb. Branching off 
to the southeast, at two o’clock we entered into a broad se%b 
that contained a number of small fields, and later we came 


AL-HOMEJMA TO AL-AKABA fab 


to the peak of al-Knénesijje, which shuts in the great plain 
of al-Morar on the northwest.”* 


AL-KNENESIJJE TO AL-WARAKA 


At 2.30 P.M. we rode alongside the dark red rocks of 
at-Tfejhwat with their precipitous sides, admiring the groups 





Fic. 23—Az-Zjejke. 


of cleft cones of Sardan and Nurra. The latter are prominent 
by reason of their peculiar olive color, and, as they extend 
to the northward separating the large, level plains of Hawr 


_ *3-'The plain of al-Morar is mentioned by Arabic authors as being in the territory of 

the Gudam tribe. u 
Al-Hamdani (died 945 A.D.), Sifa (Miller), p. 129, states that the Gudam tribe en- 

camped between Madjan, Tebak, and Adruh, one clan sojourning, however, in the vicinity 
of at-Tabarijje (Tiberias). The same author mentions (op. cit., pp. 130f.) that the territory 
of the Beli tribe borders on the territory of the Gudam on the shore near the station of 
an-Nabk and that the Gudam territory extends as far as “Ajnina’ and Tebtk in the desert, 
the aS-Sera’ range, Ma‘an, and thence back again to Ajla, and farther on to within sight of 
al-Marar, the place last mentioned being the encampment of the Lahm tribe, who are also 
the owners of a strip of country between the settlements of Tebik and Zorar. 
2 Al-Bekri, Mu‘gam (Wistenfeld), p. 550, mentions the place al-Ma‘in as being in the 
Gudam territory. According to the poet Hassan ibn Tabet, the camping places of the Gudam 
are distributed between al-Ma‘in, ‘Awd, Razza, al-Marrit, al-Habt, al-Muna’, and Bejt Zum- 
mara’. The poet Malek ibn Harim mentions Mount ‘Urad together with al-Ma‘in. 


72 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Geris and Sardan, they are visible from a long way off. At 
three o’clock we had the white limestone hills of al-Haz‘ali to 
the east and the high dark gray cone of al-Kider to the 
southeast. At 3.20 we reached the plain Hawr Geris, where 
Hammad pointed out to me on the right the famous caves 
Morar ‘Antar. On the eastern side of the limestone mountain 
Tor ‘Antar were the mouths of three large, natural caves 
which served as a shelter for flocks of goats and sheep, No- 
where in these caves is there the slightest trace of any deco- 
ration or any other sign that human hands have touched them. 
Their resemblance to the burial caves at Wadi Musa was 
a product of Hammad’s lavish imagination. He was distressed 
to find that the caves did not please me, but he comforted 
me by saying that he would conduct me to the rock of “Ala- 
kan, where he would show me boulders containing gold dust. 
He declared that in the spring of that year an official, haddam, 
of the Viceroy of Egypt had searched for such boulders near 
‘Alakan without being able to find them, but that he would 
certainly show them to me. I thanked him for his willingness, 
but declared that I would not go to ‘Alakan, as I could not 
go there alone, and, if I were to take my companions with 
me, Isma‘in and Mhammad would likewise see the boulders 
and later on would certainly make a raid upon the ‘Imran 
for the purpose of taking the boulders from them. 

Having turned to the southwest through the gap of 
Abu Hsejje, we halted at 4.08 beneath the rocky wall of al- 
Waraka (temperature: 28° C). To the northwest, near the 





Al-Bekri also states, op. cit. p. 190, that the places mentioned by Hassan ibn Tabet 
refer to the encampments of the Gudém and that they are situated in Syria (Hassan ibn 
Tabet, Diwan [Ttnis, 1281 A.H.], p. 28). ‘ 

Al-Bekri, op. cit., p. 524, refers to Marrtt as a region in the Gudam territory, which 
was presented to Husejn ibn MuSammet by the Prophet Mohammed, together with the fountains 
of Usejheb, al-Ma‘eze, al-Hawi, at-Tmad, and as-Sdéra in that area. — 

Madjan is the present oasis of al-Bed* about half-way up the waddi of al-Abjaz. Adruh 
is situated sixteen kilometers northwest of the town of Ma‘an. An-Nabk is a pilgrimage 
station on the shore of the Red Sea, which must be located in the se%b of Sa‘af, although 
the frontier between the Gudam and Beli was and is still formed by the wadi of Dama, 
nearly sixty kilometers northwest of Sa‘af. “Ajniina’ is located about fifty kilometers south- 
southeast of Madjan (al-Bed‘). Al-Marar — or, as it is called today, al-Morar — is a plateau 
to the south and southeast of the Ramm range, or the ancient Iram, rising to the east of 
the former city of Ajla and enclosing the northern corner of the Hesma’ district. According 
to al-Hamdani the Gudam tribe occupied Hesma’ as far as the harbor of Ajla and al-Morar, 
as well as the neighboring a8-Sera’ range as far as Ma‘an and the eastern table-land. The Lahm 
tribe had the territory to the north of al-Morar and to the west of the neighboring aS-Sera’ 
range as far as the Dead Sea, always supposing, of course, that the details given by al- 
Hamdani are accurate. It is certain that the Lahm territory did not extend as far as the 
settlement of Tebtik. No other writer mentions the Lahm in the vicinity of Tebaik, and no 
tribe would have permitted a foreign zone to be thrust as a wedge into their territory, thereby 
intercepting the road from water to water. Al-Ma‘in is a mountain overlooking the coastal 
plain about sixty kilometers north of the Dama wddi. Some accounts mention “Ard in place 
of ‘Awd, although it seems to me that the former name is correct, for “Arajed is the name 
of an important encampment north of Tebak, well known to the Arabie writers. The 
place named Razza is unknown to me in the territory of the Gudam tribe. It is, however, 


AL-HOMEJMA TO AL“AKABA 73 


rocks Sarbtit Amrar, we perceived a woman with three asses, 
who hastily took to flight when she caught sight of us. Our 
guide Hammad wished to pursue her, in order to evade the 
taunts and reproaches which Isma‘in and Mhammad were heap- 
ing upon him for having extolled the caves of ‘Antar as re- 
sembling the caves at Wadi Musa and for declaring that he 
knew of a boulder near ‘Alakan baked in golden flour. It was 
with great difficulty that I soothed his feelings. I had realized 
that he was well acquainted with the whole territory of his 
tribe, and I knew that we should need him to protect us 
against the aggression of his fellow tribesmen. 
Accompanied by Hammad and Tuman, I went to the top 
of al-Waraka and drew a map of the surrounding territory. 
It took us over forty minutes to reach the summit, and it 
was a very difficult climb, as we had to scramble from boulder 
to boulder and from rib to rib. Scarcely had we set about 
our work than we heard a number of muffled shots below 
us, followed by shouts that sounded like bellowings. Running 
to the very edge of a wall of rock, I gazed down at our en- 
campment. The camels were grazing among the broken frag- 
ments of rock at the foot of al-Waraka. The baggage was 
lying about two hundred meters to the east of the animals. 
Isma‘in, Mhammad, Serif, and Salem were lying hidden in a semi- 
circle behind four boulders and were defending themselves 
against some thirty assailants. The attackers had come from 
the northwest, some on camels, the majority on foot. Among 
them and behind them came women and boys, armed with 





very probable that the name has not been accurately preserved and that its proper form 
was “Azza or something similar. There is an encampment “Azaza known to the modern 
nomads in the former territory of the Gudam tribe situated at the entrance to the al-Bdejje 
pass, through which the road from Tihama runs eastward across the rocky plateau of al-Geles. 
I locate al-Habt in the modern al-Hbejt, on the eastern side of the wddi of al-Abjaz. Al-Muna’ 
is unknown to me. Bejt Zummara’ may be identical with the modern range of Zunnara, for 
in the Arabic dialects m is often interchanged with n. More probably, however, Bejt Zummara’ 
has been preserved in the modern Abu Zummarin, which is the name of an important passage 
from the eastern plateau to the shore. The encampment of ‘Urad of the poet Malek ibn 
Harim can very reasonably be identified with ‘Ard and ‘Arajed, for the poets often adapted 
place names to their particular requirements. Al-Marrtit denotes the whole region, the position 
and extent of which we can determine if we find the wells of Usejheb, al-Ma‘eze, al-Hawi, 
at-Tmad, and as-Sdéra. 

Usejheb is the modern well and se%b of as-Sahab near al-Weli Sam‘al. The spring of 
al-Hawi flows out about ten kilometers north of as-Sahab. Al-Ma‘eze suggests al-Ma‘azi, 
twenty-five kilometers northwest of al-Hawi. I identify at-Tmad with the wells of al-Ma‘- 
ajjenat, ten kilometers south of al-Ma‘‘azi. Tmad is the general name of shallow wells in 
a river bed, and al-Ma‘ajjenat are of this description. About fifteen kilometers from them 
are the hills of as-Sedara, in which there are several wells west of al-Hawi, and it is there 
that I locate as-Sdéra. Near al-Ma‘azi rises the Se%b of al-Mratijje, the root of the name of 
which suggests the diminutive Marrtt. This, accordingly, denotes the zone between as-Sahab 
to the south and al-Mratijje about forty-five kilometers to the north. 

The Prophet granted in fief to Husejn ibn MuSammet the wells near the important 
transport route that passes from north to south through the western district of the Gudam 
territory, and Husejn was entitled to demand a remuneration from the trade caravans. 


74 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


cudgels; all were shouting and cursing. Our guide Hammad, 
recognizing the assailants as his fellow tribesmen, shouted 
to them that he, their chief, was guiding and protecting us, 
and, when they paid no heed to his words, he pulled his splen- 
did mantle from his shoulders and, waving it in the air in 
his right hand, went leaping down towards them, jumping 
from boulder to boulder. As soon as the marauders perceived 
him they came to a standstill. Gradually the women went 
away, and at last the men also took their departure. After 
this incident we could complete our work. When, after sun- 
set, we returned, I thanked Hammad for his protection; but 
the negro Mhammad declared that we had not been saved by 
the chief but by the chief’s red and yellow cloak. Mhammad 
said that as soon as the assailants had caught sight of this 
garment — selected and sent to Hammad by the Sultan — they 
had been struck blind and had therefore been compelled to 
depart. So long as this cloak was with us, not a single thief 
among the ‘Imran would venture to steal anything from us. 
But Hammad had no such faith in the great power of his 
cloak, and he urged me to post a guard to watch over our 
camels and baggage throughout the night. The chief Salem 
offered to keep watch until morning, if I would fill his bag 
with tobacco and give him a can full of coffee to boil. I sat 
up with him nearly all night, as I was suffering from a severe 
pain in my right eye. 


AL-WARAKA TO AZ-ZJEJKE 


On Monday, June 6, 1910, at 4.40 A. M., we rode out from 
camp toward the southwest, through the se%ib of Sweébet 
(temperature: 14° C), and at 5.44 we crossed to the water- 
course of Sabet. This se?%b runs from southeast to northwest 
through the sloping basin Hawr Geris, from which protrude 
only a few low, rocky ribs. The largest of these is called 
al-Mekjal. The whole basin and surroundings of the sevb 
of Sabet were covered with a thick growth of grass and 
shrubs, a sign that there had been an abundance of rain 
during the last rainy season. Many snakes were crawling 
about among the vegetation, and we saw at least twenty 
of them. They were about thirty centimeters long, very thin, 
and their backs were covered with black scales. Hammad 
praised the “richness of the pasture that year (rif has-sene).”’ 


AL-HOMEJMA TO AL“AKABA 75 


He explained that in the preceding year also there had been 
plenty of rain, but the young locusts had destroyed the grass 
and shrubs, so that the ‘Imran had been obliged to move on 
with their flocks to the region of al-Kdtr on the southern 
border of the aS-Sera’ range. 

We reached the watershed of the valleys of al-Jitm and 
al-Mabrak through the broad defile of ‘Elw al-Jitama, and from 
7.30 to 11.42 our main party 
remained beneath the steep 
wall of Ammu Zktk (Fig. 24). 
Jumping down from our cam- 
els, Taman and I took up the 
instruments we needed and 
with Hammad made our way 
to the summit of Ammu Zkuk. 
The ascent was difficult and 
even dangerous in places. We 
crawled among the granite ribs, 
frequently passing round ver- 
tical walls of rock, and scram- 
bled between broken boulders, 
continually taking care not to 
set loose a stone that might 
roll down and wound or kill 
one of our companions coming 
up behind. After eighty min- 
utes we reached a rocky ridge 
at an elevation of 1387 meters. 
Thoroughly tired, and breathing with difficulty, we sank down 
upon a rock, but after a short time recovered and set about 
our task. 


To the east our view was shut off by the higher peaks of Ammu 
Zktk, and to the northwest it was barred by Abu ‘Urak; but in all 
other directions we could see for a great distance. To the northeast, 
behind the elevation of Ammu Drejra, from which the se%b of an-Na‘ami 
proceeds, there extends the plain Hawr Geris, separated by the group 
of Sardan and Nurra from the plain of as-Sardan, which slopes to the 
southeast. South of Nurra the mountains of Ammu Sahan and al-Mut- 
tala‘a are united with the broad ridge of az-Zahr, and still farther south 
they merge with the mountains of Nedra and az-Zejte, which form the 
watershed between the eastern lowlands and the Red Sea. Below Ammu 
Zktk to the south, the broad Se%b of al-Krejn extends from east to 
west — bordered on the east by the hills of al-Btéane, Ammu Lowze, 
and ‘Alakan; on the south by az-Zeranik, an-Nkejra, Abu Rekajes, and 





Fic. 24—Ammu Zkik. 


76 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Ruraba; on the west by as-Sfejhe; and on the northwest by Abu Krtn 
and Abu ‘Urtk. Through the plain of al-Krejn there winds the water- 
course of the same name. The spring of an-Nkejra lies between the 
rocks of an-Nkejra and az-Zeranik on the eastern portion of the plain, 
while toward the western end the spring of al-Esawed rises at the foot 
of Abu Krtin. The se%b of al-Krejn joins the se%b of al-Mabrak, which 
extends from the rocks of ‘Alakan, at-Tafha, and Ammu Kedade that 
lie to the southeast. To the west of ‘Alakan, on the right-hand side of 
al-Mabrak rises the mountain of al-Roson; on the left-hand side, al-Emejrer 
and Umm Burka; Ammu Hamata farther to the west is on the right-hand 
side, and az-Zrejf on the left. At the head of the Se%b of al-Mabrak — to 
the southwest of ‘Alakan — is the spring of al-‘Elli; to the west of 
al-Emejrer is the spring of at-Tarfa’, while northwest of at-Tarfa’ are 
al-Wugide and al-Ma‘ajjenat, the latter on the west slope of Ammu Hamata. 

I collected some plants during the descent, so that I re- 
turned about a quarter of an hour later than my companions. 
Having described the plants and put them away, I made ready 
for departure, without refreshing myself with even a cup of 
coffee: my hungry companions had consumed everything 
available. 

We turned back northward through the defile of ‘Elw 
al-Jitama, as} I wanted to journey through Wadi al-Jitm to 
the settlement of al-‘Akaba. Before us, to the northwest, rose 
the dark mountains of Sarbat al-Amrar with their vertical 
ribs, on which stand steep-walled, red, natural strongholds. The 
vertical ribs are of granite and the strongholds of limestone 
and sandstone. The individual mountains are divided by broad 
notches, the walls of which are black while the ridges of the 
mountains are red, and in the rays of the sun these two 
colors spread around them a thin veil, woven of the most 
various shades of color. This veil appeared to be in perpetual 
motion, which was irritating to the eyes. I was obliged to 
bind up my sore right eye and use only the left. 

At 1.10 we had on our left the setb of Ammu Nsal, in 
which rises near a sidr tree the spring of Hawara. The ‘Imran 
believe that this tree is the abode of a spirit—hal-welijje 
hadi mamlika (this holy tree is possessed by a spirit). At 
2.10 on the right among the black granite rocks we perceived 
the broad gap of Mekreh al-Gemal and came to the se%b of 
al-“-Emédijje, through which a road leads to the spring of 
Abu Hbejle. From 2.40 to 5.13 we rested at the foot of Mount 
al-Mkasseb (Fig. 25). The baggage was unloaded and the 
camels were led to the spring of Taten, which comes up from 
the northern slope of al-Knejne. The air was filled with thick 


AL-HOMEJMA TO AL-AKABA 77 


vapors, which formed broad layers and shut out the view 
(temperature: 37.2° C). They quivered in the hot rays of the 
sun and were continually changing their position. My left eye 
also began to hurt and I trembled with fever. 





Fic. 25—Mount al-Mkasseb. 


Toward five o’clock my companions brought back the 
camels, and at 5.18 we set off between the rocks of al-Kejttn, 
al-Halal, and al-Hmejra on the left and al-Mkasseb on the 
right. At six o’clock, on our right beneath the spring of as- 
Seri‘a, we observed a large encampment of the ‘Asban clan, 
who also belong to the ‘Imran. The chief, Kasem, ran up to 
us with about twenty men and entreated me and my com- 
panions to be his guests. Tormented by fever and by the pain 
in my eyes, which was so severe that I could scarcely hold 
myself in the saddle, I craved rest and peace. I prayed the 
chief to allow us to sit down in the shadow of his tent and 
beneath the protection of his countenance, saying that we 
should everywhere extol and proclaim his bountifulness. At 
6.12 we settled down beneath a rock of no great size near 


78 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


the setb of az-Zjejke, about one kilometer from the tents 
(temperature: 21° C). 

Mounting the rock with Taman and the guide, I noted 
the names of the surrounding mountains and then dragged 
myself to the baggage. Serif placed my saddle for me in the 
shadow of the rock, where I lay down. My right eye was 
swollen and blood-shot, I had excruciating internal pains, and 
was shaken by fever. Scarcely had I wrapped myself up in 
my mantle, covering my head also, when Kasem, the chief, 
came to pay me a visit, bringing me a bleating ram as a gift. 
Tying up the animal behind my head, he sat down beside 
me and inquired how I was prospering, how my parents were 
prospering, how my relatives were prospering, how the Sultan 
of Constantinople was prospering — not only the new Sultan, 
but also Abdul-Hamid, who had been deposed and who was, 
Kasem said, a great benefactor of the ‘Imran, because he 
selected better cloaks than the present Sultan — and so on. 
Many other men came with the chief, and they also sat down 
around me, fingering the softness of my cloak, judging its 
cost, and declaring that it was of better material than the 
cloak which the Sultan had sent from Constantinople to their 
chief. Observing the barrel of my three-chambered rifle lying 
beside me underneath my cloak, they asked how it worked. 
As my head was entirely covered, I did not move or pay 
any heed to the chief and the rest of the company. After 
about a quarter of an hour, the leader got up and went to 
our fire, where coffee was just being boiled, and the rest of 
them crowded after him. Only the ram remained tied up 
behind my head and kept on bleating. At last the animal 
succeeded in breaking loose and escaped from the camp. Scarcely 
had its escape been observed than the chief and his followers 
dashed off, caught the animal, and brought it back again; 
but this time they did not tie it up near my head but near 
the fire, where it continued bleating until morning. All night 
long, aS in a dream, I heard the voices of the men talking 
and the bleating of the ram. 


AZ-ZJEJKE TO THE RIFT VALLEY OF AL-“ARABA 
AT RIGM AL-FAZH 


Before dawn on Tuesday, June 7, 1910, Kasem, the chief, 
was again sitting by my side with his ram, which he now 


AL-HOMEJMA TO AL“AKABA 79 


held by the horns with his left hand. He offered it to me 
as a gift, expecting, of course, a much more valuable gift 
from me. The evening before he had invited us to come to 
his tent as guests, but in the meanwhile he and his followers 
visited us, consumed all my companions’ supper, and drank 
four cans full of coffee. But he nevertheless continued to 
regard himself as my host and demanded a gift. My com- 
panions were very much annoyed with him, and Mhammad 
signaled to me that I should give him nothing. When Serif, 
at my hint, paid him three megidijjat, Kasem mounted his 
camel and rode away without a word of thanks: he had ex- 
pected a much greater gift. On the heels of the chief about 
fifteen other men came up and all begged for gifts. I was 
glad when we rode away at 4.58 P. M. 

The ‘Imran comprise the following clans: 

Samamse (or Samsan), 10 tents; at az-Zjejke. 

Dbtr, 25 tents; at Sabet. 

Rabiijjin, 20 tents; at the head of Sabet. 

al-Makable, 30 tents; between as-Sedara and Zeranik. 

al-F'zul, 20 tents; at Hakl. They form two groups: 
ar-Rwékbin and al-Kawasme. 

al-Hawamde, 35 tents; at ‘Elw as-Sirr. They include 
al-H1]élijjin. 

‘Abadle, 20 tents; in Tihama from al-Hméza to ad- 
Dabr. 

al-“Asabne, 40 tents; from Sfejha to the west and 
south. 

The head chief of the ‘Imran is Salem eben Makbtal. He 
receives 250 Turkish gold pounds ($ 1125) annually from 
the Sultan. The territory of the ‘Imran from az-Zjejke in the 
north to ad-Dabr in the south is about sixty kilometers long 
by thirty-five kilometers broad. They have a clear and distinct 
pronunciation of k, k, and g; their zg is nearer to d; ta’ 
marbuta sounds nearly always like a. 

At 5.45 we rode through a grove of sejdl trees which 
covered not only the valley but also the northern foot of 
Mount az-Zab‘i. The wddi forms a basin open on the east 
but shut in on the west by the steep walls of Mount Lebenan. 
The latter are made of black, reddened, and blue strata, 
broken perpendicularly.”* 

24 Abu Muhammed al-Aswad (Jakit, Mu‘gam [Wistenfeld], Vol. 4, p. 347) recalls a 


ride from the sandy desert of Ajla through the lowland of Lubna’ and through the volcanic 
region of al-“Aramat, which is covered in places with sandy drifts. He states that Lubna’ 


80 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


At seven o’clock, on our left; we saw the se%tb of Umm 
‘ESS, which is clogged with stones and sand, so that the 
river bed is over five meters deep. At 7.20 we arrived at the 
junction of the two valleys called Jitm, Malaka’ al-Ajtam 
(junction of the Jitms), one of which proceeds from the 
ruins of al-Homejma on the north, while the other, through 
which we rode, comes from the southeast. The small ruins 
of al-Kitara, situated on the spur between the two channels, 
are said to be inhabited by a spirit and consequently are 
avoided by both the ‘Alawin and the ‘Imran.” North of 
them is the spring of al-Harak. 

I should have been very glad to have halted and in- 
spected the ruins, but there was nowhere any trace of plants. 
Both wddis were completely dried up, and in the joint valley 
of al-Jitm only sejdls were growing in the stony soil. Our 
guide Salem said that in the lower part of Wadi al-Jitm 
there had been no rain during either that year or the previous 
one. The sun beat down upon the black rocks that enclose 
the wadi, the air did not stir, and in the deep ravine the 
sweltering heat was unbearable. The camels were as eager 
as their riders to escape from this closed furnace and needed 
no urging to hasten westward. At eight o’clock we had the 
rocks of Maksar al-Gerra on our left; four minutes later the 
seib of Umm Hamata was on our right, and at 8.10 we were 
thrusting our way among countless granite boulders that 
had been wrenched from the wall of ar-Resafa which enclosed 
the wadi on our right. At 8.44 we came upon the dam of 
al-Mesadd, which once ran across the full breadth of the 
wadi from southwest to northeast, transforming it into a large 
rain pool. Its southern portion has now been broken through 
and carried away. At 8.52 P. M. we saw many sejdl trees 
in the setb of Umm Lasam on our left; and at nine o’clock 
we rode out from Wadi al-Jitm and from the granite walls 
enclosing it. On the left of the river bed, beneath the rocky 
wall, lies the huge, smooth boulder Dims al-‘Okbijje, so named 
is situated in the territory of the Gudam. —TI locate the lowland of Lubna’ in the valley near 
Mount Lebenan, for Lubna’ is the feminine form of the masculine Lebenan. It belonged 
to the Gudam tribe, and an important road led through it from the harbor of Ajla to the 
southeast. The region of ‘Aramat would then be identical with the volcanic territory Harrat 
al-‘Awérez. 

*> Al-Hazimi, according to Jaktt, op. cit., Vol. 4, p. 317, mentions Mount Kawtar 
as lying between al-Medina and Syria. — This is perhaps the mountain which rises above 
the ruins of Kitara. The approximate indication of its position between al-Medina and Syria 
is customary with the Arabic geographers and implies that it is situated by the road — or 
at least not far from the road —_which leads from al-Medina to Syria. This road runs from 


Ajla by al-Kitara to the pass of Sitar, the position of which is defined by Jaktit, op. cit., 
Vol. 3, p. 259, precisely as lying between al-Medina and Syria. 





AL-HOMEJMA TO AL-AKABA Sl 


after a young woman of the Beni ‘Okba tribe. She is said 
to have been a renowned beauty, who was married as a girl 
to the chief, a relative of hers. After having been married 
for two years she had not yet presented her husband with 
a boy or a girl. At Allah’s injunction, she came one day to 





Fic. 26—From Rigm al-Fazh looking northeast. 


look for fuel in Wadi al-Jitm. She was accompanied by an- 
other woman but lost sight of this companion. After shouting 
had failed to attract the attention of the missing woman, 
the chief’s wife leaped upon a huge boulder but missed her 
footing and slid down. Lo and behold! after due time, she 
gave birth to a strong, healthy boy. Since then the childless 
women of the neighboring tribes have made pilgrimages to 
the boulder of al-‘Okbijje, where they climb over its surface: 
if Allah wills it they obtain children and if Allah wills not 
they obtain no children. 


RIGM AL-FAZH TO AL-“AKABA 


At 9.15 A. M., to the east of Rigm al-Fazh, we perceived 
a few yellowish ramt bushes (Fig. 26), beside which we 


A 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


» 6 


82 


‘You 944 


Wort VQPHV,-[V—LZ ‘DIA 





AL-HOMEJMA TO AL-AKABA 83 


remained until 11.45. Our famished camels could find nothing 
except rimt. The rift valley of al-“Araba was completely 
parched, and, as there was nowhere the slightest trace 
of grass or green plants, the prevailing color was gray. The 
heat was so great that we found it difficult to breathe 
(temperature: 37.8° C). The air was full of yellowish layers; 
the sun could not be seen, but its hot rays warmed these 
layers and scorched the stones and sand. There was not the 
least breath of wind to bring cooler air to the heated soil 
upon which we lay. Our lunes struggled to gulp down as much 
air as possible, and we could not bear to turn our eyes upon 
the glowing atmosphere. My right eye was paining me so 
much that I did not venture even to move the muscles of it, 
not wishing to increase my agony. My fever had grown more 
severe again, and I could feel the blood throbbing in my 
temples. 

Mounting our camels at 11.45, we rose above the warmest 
atmospheric layer and could breathe somewhat more freely. 
After proceeding southward along the western foot of the 
Ummu Nsejle mountains, at twelve o’clock we crossed the 
Seib of Umm Gurfejn, through which we could see the black 
ridge of Mount ar-Rwéha. But we did not find any fresh 
green plants anywhere at the foot of the mountain; the 
needles had been preserved only on the rimt bushes and not 
on all of these, for many of them were completely bare, 
a sign that the roots had not found enough moisture to nourish 
the long, thin leaves, which resemble pine needles. At 12.47 
we caught sight of the palm gardens of the oasis of al-“Akaba 
(Fig. 27). The tops of the palms seemed to be a dull black, 
while the sea behind them was a dirty yellow. At 1.06 we 
rode across the se%b of aS-Sellale and reached the wooden 
huts in which a hundred and fifty foot soldiers were quartered. 
Skirting the encampment and settlement on the western side, 
we urged our camels to kneel down by the well of Ajla 
(temperature 42.3° C). 

The well of Ajla is situated between the stronghold and 
the seashore, from which it is scarcely fifty paces distant. 
To the north and south extend the palm gardens. At the 
advice of Isma‘in, who was well acquainted with al-“Akaba, 
we carried our baggage into the nearest of the northern 
gardens, where we encamped. After a while, the owner of 
the garden came up to us with a watchman, and both gave 


84 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


us a hearty welcome. Accompanied by Isma‘in, I proceeded 
to the kdjmakadm. The Government building — a low, dirty 
hut with two rooms and a single window — is situated north 
of the village. We did not find the kajmakam there, as he 
was paying a visit to the hut of the Military Commander 
farther to the north. In front of the latter’s hut the soldiers 
had planted several ratam bushes, which had grown abun- 
dantly as a result of careful watering. 

The kdj7makam, a man of about thirty-five, with an intel- 
ligent expression, was lying on a carpet and reading a Turkish 
newspaper. He spoke Arabic quite fluently, and this I immedi- 
ately remarked as unusual among the younger Turkish officials, 
especially since the change of Government. I first handed 
him a recommendation and a letter from his father-in-law at 
Damascus, and then a recommendation from Constantinople. 
He heartily bade me welcome and questioned me particularly 
about events in Constantinople and Syria. He informed me 
that he had reached al-‘Akaba from al-Medina by way of 
Ma‘an only a few days before and that he proposed to subject 
the region entirely to the Turkish Government from Morajer 
Su‘ejb in the south to the well ‘Ajn Rarandal in the north, 
from ‘Ajn Taba in the west to the mighty ridge of az-Zahr 
in the east. He was to be supported by one hundred and fifty 
foot soldiers and twenty-six men mounted on camels. The 
kajmakdadm complained that one hundred and thirty of his men 
were lying ill, suffering from fever and malaria and that his 
mounted men had only two camels, which were deteriorating 
from day to day as a result of insufficient food. The camel 
riders all came from al-Kasim, thus being ‘Akejl, whom the 
kajmakdm had hired in al-Medina. The Government had appoint- 
ed him the first kdj7makam in al-‘Akaba but had not supplied 
him with money, food, or even ammunition. In al-‘Akaba there 
were no medicines and no doctor. The soldiers who were 
seriously ill were transported on camels to Ma‘an and thence 
by railway to Damascus, a journey which required eight days, 
so that few of those who were dangerously ill reached Damascus 
alive. The garrison was relieved every six months. In 1909 
many of the soldiers and the native inhabitants had died of 
cholera brought by pilgrims returning by way of al-“Akaba 
to Egypt and thence to northern Africa.”® 

*6 Abu-l-Feda’, Takwim (Reinaud and De Slane), pp. 86—87, states that in his time 


nothing was left of the former small town of Ajla except the stronghold on the Egyptian 
Pilgrim Route situated by the shore of the Kolzum Sea. There were no fields in the 


AL-HOMEJMA TO AL-“AKABA 85 


The settlement of al-“Akaba has about thirty huts, inhab- 
ited by nineteen families who have emigrated from various 
countries and cities. The majority of the inhabitants are 
descendants of Egyptian soldiers and pilgrims who fell ill at 
al--Akaba, were cured, and married there. The huts are built 
of broken stone or unburnt brick. The only building of a higher 
type is the stronghold, which is constructed of square-hewn, 
black and white stones (Fig. 28). At each corner of the 
stronghold there is a round tower. A fine gateway in the 
center of the northern side leads into an extensive courtyard, 
along the walls of which there are stables, storehouses, and 
rooms for visitors and pilgrims. To the right and left of this 
gateway there are rosettes, and on the northeastern tower 
is a knight’s escutcheon (Fig. 29). On both walls of the 
broad passage formed by the gateway there are inscriptions 
announcing by whom and when the stronghold was restored. 
Today it again stands in need of restoration, for its north- 
ern and eastern walls are half in ruins. 

The inhabitants of al-“Akaba cultivate the date palm. 
They have excellent plantations to the south of the settlement, 
to the northwest near the ruins of ad-Dejr on the road to 
Egypt, and in the western part of al-‘Araba. They assured 
me that they have more than three thousand date palms. 
Under the palms they grow figs, pomegranates, sweet lemons, 
and various kinds of vegetables. The gardens do not provide 
them with a living, as they nearly all belong to the chiefs 
of neighboring tribes, for whom they are cultivated in return 
for a half or a third of the yield. The settlers seek a liveli- 
hood in trade, conveying and selling various goods which are 
brought by the coasting traders or sailors on ships from 
Egypt. In the Wadi al-‘Okfi the soil can be cultivated, and 
the harvests there are abundant when there has been plenty 
of rain and water has been flowing through the wddi for 
a considerable time. In this valley the inhabitants rent allot- 
ments from the Héwat, sowing the land with wheat and 
barley and living in tents beside their fields during the 
periods of sowing and of harvest. After the harvest they 
return to al-‘Akaba with the threshed corn. 





vicinity of this stronghold. In former times Ajla had a small fortress on the island [a small 
island (not shown on the map) situated near the western shore of the gulf and not explored 
by me]; but this also was abandoned, and the Egyptian governor resided in the above- 
mentioned stronghold. For records of the history of the harbor of Ajla, see Musil, Arabia 
Petraea, Vol. 2; Part 1, p. 305, note 16, 


A 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


> 4h 


86 


‘ysvoy.LOU VY} Woy Vqeyy,-[eB fo 


ploy.suo.4s af —8zZ ‘DIY 





AL-HOMEJMA TO AL-AKABA 87 


Northwest of the ruins of Ajla we visited a grove of 
luxuriant date palms in which we found other remains of 
old buildings, called ad-Dejr or ad-Dar. In 1898 the Military 
Commander began to construct a large barrack to the south 





Fic. 29—Al-‘Akaba, the northeastern tower. 


of this palm grove, but the building was never completed 
and now resembles a ruin. 

After our return from ad-Dejr, I photographed the in- 
scriptions on the stronghold, visited a number of the sick 
soldiers, conversed for more than an hour with the kajmakdm, 
and looked about for a reliable guide. The chief, Salem eben 
Gad, who had accompanied us to al-‘Akaba, had become so 
accustomed to our coffee that he did not feel inclined to 
leave us. 


Gye ysl lee ABN 


AL-‘AKABA TO MADIAN 


The negro Mhammad, who was guarding our camels on 
the pasture, sent me word that there were neither annuals 
nor perennials in the neighborhood and urgently advised that 
we should quickly finish our work at al-“Akaba and continue 
our journey. I accordingly sent Serif to Mhammad, so that 
they might drive the camels on to the well of Ajla (Fig. 30) 
and let them drink there. But the animals did not wish to 
drink the fresh water from the well, preferring to go to the 
seashore where they very readily drank from the many springs 
which flowed there. At low tide the rocky shore was laid bare 
for a distance of about two hundred meters, uncovering nu- 
merous springs which gushed forth with great strength. 


AL-AKABA TO HAKL 


At 2.04 P. M. we left al-‘Akaba, making our way in a 
southerly direction between the gardens and the sea. At the 
southern extremity of the gardens, at 2.15, we fell in with 
a man riding on a camel in the direction of the oasis of 
Hakl. Joining us, he told me the names of the various places 
that were visible. On the eastern shore of the gulf there is 
a group of yellowish mountains from which run numerous deep 
and shallow seibdn. Many of these have watercourses as deep 
as twenty meters, hollowed out amid small stones mixed with 
clay; and there are also places where the sejdl trees grow. 
No green plants were visible anywhere. Immediately behind 
the gardens we crossed the se%b of Ammu Sidd, which rises 
at Hala’ Dahne; then we crossed al-Holozani, al-GowSijje, and 
at 2.28 ar-Rahbijje, which comes from the mountain of Abu 
Ruzuman, the rocky spur of which thrusts itself down to the 
sea. At low tide the spur is separated from the water by a 
strip about twenty meters broad, covered with many boulders 
and with soft sand into which our animals slipped up to 
their knees. At high tide the sea washes against the foot 
of the spur’s rocky wall, and in stormy weather the waves 

88 


AL-AKABA TO MADIAN 89 


rise to a height of many meters, wearing away the rocks. 
At this point it is impossible to cross between the sea and 
the steep wall, so a bridle path about four meters broad has 
been cut across the spur about one hundred meters from the 





Fic. 830—By the well of Ajjla. 


sea, and a small watchtower (Fig. 31)—called al-Brejg— 
has been set up to prevent the Bedouins from occupying the 
rocks surrounding the saddle path and thus intercepting the 
pilgrims on their journey. This steep path, artificially cut 
out from the rock, was originally called ‘Akabat Ajla, and 
from it the present settlement and stronghold of al-“Akaba 
has received its name. 

At three o’clock we rode across the se%b of Umm Hajt; 
at 3.10 we had Rigm ad-Darak on our right; at 3.30 we cross- 
ed the se%b of Srejh, which comes from the northern slope 
of al-Halal and joins Umm Sidre on the left; and at about 
3.45 we rode through the Se7wbdn of aS-Smejsijje, al-Mhaggar, 
and al-Jemanijje. Beyond the last-named the mountains recede 
toward the east, and between them and the sea there extends 
an undulating plain about two kilometers broad, on which 
the etmdn grows in some places. From 4.22 to 6.45 we halted 


90 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


in the se%b of al-Arwah in order to let the camels graze a 
little, and here we made a fire from the long-thorned branch- 
es of the sejdal, this being the only wood we could find (tem- 
perature: 40.8° C). 





Fic. 831—‘Akabat Ajla, watchtower of al-Brejg. 


At 6.50 we rode across the Se%b of al-Hesani. The road 
leads along the seashore itself, beneath a brittle slope of 
white marl, about six meters high, through which the sev%b 
of al-Halal—which we crossed at 7.08—has worn away a deep 
channel. After 7.30 we proceeded across the marshy soil of 
al-Mamlah, which extends to the southeast as far as the low 
hills of Hekint ar-Rimt. Later we crossed the se%vb of al- 
Mratijje (formed by the union of al-Krejzi and an-Nwéb‘e) 
and beyond it al-Esawed.?”‘ 


“7 The poet an-Nabira, who was a member of the Dubjan tribe to which the land 
east of the region of Hesma’ belonged and who lived about 600 A. D., mentions (An-Nabira, 
Diwan [Derenbourg], p. 292; [Ahlwardt], p. 21; Jakidit, op. cit., Vol. 4, p. 797) the camping 
places between the fertile lowland of Nu‘mi and the valleys of al-Agawel and al-Asawed. 
— As he was well acquainted with the camping places of the northern Hegaz and mentions 
them often in his poems, we must locate these three spots in the northern Hegaz. Rowze 
Nu‘mi would then be identical with the fertile lowland by the well of an-Na‘emi; the valleys 
of al-Agawel with the broad lowlands near Mount Gawla; and the valley of al-Asawed, 
if this name is accurately given, we should locate in the vicinity of the well of al-Esawed. 

Az-ZamahSari (Jakut, op. cit., Vol. 1, p. 587) locates the lowland of an-Nu‘mi on the 
seashore, the Tihama, thus confusing it with the valley of al-Agawel. Burka Na‘mi is the 
name of a half-reddened, half-black cone above the well of the same name. 


AL“AKABA TO MADIAN 91 


The night was extremely dark, for the stars were partially 
hidden by haze. On the right, the sea was phosphorescent 
and appeared to be illuminated by numerous lamps burning 
beneath the water. The fever was shaking me again, and I 
was glad when we settled down at 8.380 at a short distance 
from the road among the rimt bushes near the sevb of 
Sahjet al-Ma“azi. Fearing that some robber from al-‘Akaba 
might creep up behind us or that some traveler along the 
trade route might hear our voices and steal something from 
us, we kept guard over our encampment all night. 

On Thursday, June 8, 1910, we started off at 4.384 A. M. 
(temperature: 27.8° C). At 4.40 we rode through the Sahjet 
ad-Dirri and passed along the mar] slope of ad-Debbe. The 
sejal trees which grow there are low and stunted, and their 
trunks and tops bend eastward, a sure sign of prevailing 
westerly winds. At 5.08 we rode round two piles of stones, 
one covering the grave of a Bedouin, the other marking the 
place where his blood had been shed. He had been riding to 
Egypt with his nephew. At this place the nephew shot him 
and rode on to Egypt with his uncle’s horse and all his prop- 
erty. But the man who had been shot roused himself from 
his swoon long enough to tell of the villainous deed to a 
traveler, who, by the ordinance of Allah, was passing that 
way; after which he died. The traveler buried the man and 
announced to his son that he should avenge his father. 

By the sea we noticed numerous piles of shellfish. In the 
autumn the Arabs camping by the seashore collect these shell- 
fish, warm them over a fire, and when they are half-open 
eat the contents. At 5.20 we rode through the deep channel 
of al-Ktejf, hollowed out in the marl of ad-Debbe. On the 
left this se%b joins the se%tb of Ammu Hsi. On the shore 
itself, by the se%b of al-Ktejf, there stood three high palm 
trees. About one hundred and fifty paces to the south rises 
a salt spring, to the east of which extends a large burial 
place. 

At 5.34 we caught sight of the oasis of Hakl. Steep 
slopes thrust the road towards the sea, and in places broken 
rocks are piled up across it. The crossing below Ketib al- 
Mbassi is dangerous. A steep slope about forty meters high, 
completely covered with fine sand, rises sheer from the sea, 
and in this the road has been artificially cut. But the soft 
marl does not adequately resist the attacks of the waves; it 


Ya 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


a2 


sve oY Woiy [PeH—ze “DIA 





AL“AKABA TO MADIAN 93 


breaks and crumbles so that nothing remains of the broad 
road but a narrow footpath, which in places is scarcely forty 
centimeters wide. During storms at sea, when the waves reach 
the footpath, the connection with the south is cut off. 
Ketib al-Mbassi is often beset with robbers, who le in 
wait for the rich trade cara- 
vans; but these hostile bands 
have suffered more than one 
defeat there. In the spring of 
1907 the Hwetat at-Tihama — 
who owe allegiance to the head 
chief Abu Tkéka— made a raid 
against the ‘Imran who were 
encamping by the se%b of al- 
Ktejf. The latter, being fore- 
warned of the approaching 
danger, carried a great number 
of stones to the edge of the 
slope Ketib al-Mbassi and hid 
behind them. When the last 
man of the enemy passed 
along the footpath — about 
five hundred meters long — 
advancing from the south to 
its northern extremity, the 
‘Imran began to roll large and 
small stones down on both ends 
of the path, in this way killing 
six of the enemy and compel- 
ling all the rest — over two Fic. 883—Our guide Farrag. 
hundred in all — to beg for 
mercy. At the southern end of this footpath is the spring 
of Hkejl, near which there are four groups of palm trees. 
At 6.12 we reached the outlying palm trees of the small 
oasis of Hakl. These trees form a narrow strip extending 
southward along the shore. Among and behind them rise 
numerous springs, the water of which, however, is either salt 
or brackish and causes violent fever. Hence the saying: ‘“Hakl 
is the ruin of reason, hakl salab min al-‘akl.” Only to the 
south of the se%b of al-Mabrak is there a spring with good 
fresh water. Near it are several huts built of palm leaves 
and therefore called ‘esse (nest, bower). To the north of 





94 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


these huts, on the right-hand side’ of al-Mabrak and to the 
east of the date palms, there grows a group of dium palms 
CREE BPA Nee 

We remained in the se%b of al-Mabrak from 6.25 to 7.28. 
Four men and two women came up to us and very willingly 
described to me the vicinity of Hakl, asking if one of them 
eould accompany us as a guide. I selected a short, thickset 
man, named Farrag ar-Rwékbi (Fig. 33), to come with us 
to the nearest camp of the ‘Imran. 

While I was negotiating for the guide, Isma‘in shot twelve 
kata birds (a species of partridge), which were drinking 
from the fresh spring. Nowhere in this oasis are there any 
traces of old buildings, and, as there was absolutely no pasture 
in the vicinity for our camels, we could not remain in Hakl. 


HAKL TO ‘ELW AS-SIRR 


At 8.388 we went on to the left side of the se?%b and 
proceeded in a southeasterly direction across the undulating, 
bare, parched region of al-Hasa’, which gradually merges 
into the elevation of Sahab at-Tabak. At 9.20 we had the 
palm groves of al-Hmejza and al-‘Enabijje on our right hand, 
in a deep notch; and we rode into the se%b of al-Hmejza at 
the spot where it is joined by the Se%b of al--Emejk. At the 
head of the latter stands a small weli (shrine) of Sheikh 
Hmtd. The saint Hmutd is called the liberator of the pris- 
oners, fakkak al- mahadis. If an Arab who has been impris- 
oned by the Turkish Government appeals to him, he will 
set him free, even though he may be in chains. It is seldom 
that he assists a Turk or a Crkas (Circassian). 

At ten o’clock we descended into the Se%b of al-Gille, 
known as Umm Gurfejn in its middle part, where there was 
a settlement of liberated black slaves. Their chief was called 
Fazlallah. They live like the Arabs, breeding goats as well 
as a few sheep and camels. They comprise thirty-six families 


*8 I think that in Ptolemy, Geography, VI, 7: 27, Agkale is a corruption of the Arabic 
word Hakl. The location tallies. 

Al-Bekri, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), p. 26, writes that Hakl is situated on the shore of 
the oasis of Tejma in the territory of the Gudam tribe. 

According to Jakat, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 2, p. 299, Hakl is a place sixteen 
miles from Ajla, in the direction of al-Medina. ‘Azza, the beloved of the poet Kutejjer, had 
a garden there. In agreement with Ibn al-Kalbi, JakGt makes Hakl the landing place 
of Tejma. — 

The distance between Ajla and the oasis of Hakl is thirty-five kilometers. It is 
doubtful whether this oasis was ever of any importance to Tejma. The landing place Zbe’ is 
situated 150 kilometers nearer Tejma than is Hakl. 


AL~“AKABA TO MADIAN 95 


and obey Eben Makbul, the head chief of the ‘Imran. Many 
of them are the descendants of Egyptian soldiers who guard- 
ed the various halting places on the Pilgrim Route leading 
from Egypt by way of al-‘Akaba to al-Medina and Mecca. 

At 10.30 we came upon the plateau of al-Mrejra, where 
we remained from 10.47 to 1.15. The camels chewed at the 
hard woody portion of the etmdn. To the south of Umm 
Gurfejn rise the hills of al-Asmar, from which the Seibdn 
of ar-Ramti, at-Tawtahijje, Gedi* and al-‘Arajkén proceed 
toward the west. The se%b of asS-Srejh divides the hills of 
al-Asmar from the ridge of the same name. Toward the north 
rise the broken peaks of at-Tnejnir and east of them the huge 
cones of al-Hadab. My companions boiled the kata’ birds, but 
after two hours they were even harder than when they were 
put into the water. 

At 1.45 P. M. we had the se%b of Salab al-‘Arejf on our 
right; at 2.15 Umm MeSta was on our left; and at 2.45 Sejh 
al-Ksejr. These sewban come from the rocks of al-Kerin and 
al-“Awgijje. At the northern foot of al-Kerin is the well Bir 
Gedid, while the spring of ‘Arejga rises on the southern foot. 
The hills gradually grow into mountains. The se7vbdn become 
narrower and deeper. Except for the grayish-green sejdl trees, 
there was no vegetation. At 3.20 we saw on our right the 
Seib of al-Msejhet which comes from the spring of the same 
name; on our left was al-Hwéwira, separated by the ridge 
of as-Sedara from Sejh al-Ksejr; and at 4.388 Fegs al-Kalh 
was on our right, while on our left lay the se%b of Sejhig¢ 
near Mount al-Hawara. We reached the plain of ‘Elw as-Sirr, 
upon the northeastern portion of which are the three isolated 
dome-shaped peaks of Manazer aS-Serki. South of these ex- 
tends the ridge of al-Farwa with the broken cone of as- 
Silmi. Finding that this plain furnished pasture for our camels, 
we encamped at 5.31 P.M. beneath a high red rock, from 
which we obtained a view of the surrounding country (tem- 
perature: 32.5° C). 


To the west of ‘Elw as-Sirr extends the narrow ridge Srejf al-Maktale, 
west of which is Umm Rased and, still farther, al-Kalhi. From the eastern 
slope of al-Maktale rises the se%b of ad-Dabr, which runs in a north- 
westerly direction and is joined on the right by the se%ban of al-Hadab 
and at-Tmejmijje, on the left by Htejmijje and al-‘Ajn. Se‘ib ad-Dabr 
comes to an end beneath the hills of al-Hamza on the shore of the Red 
Sea. Southwest of Srejf al-Maktale and south of Umm Rased, rain water 
collects in the se%b of al-Ehzéri, the branches of which are al-Hrtt and 


96 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


al-HaSa’ on the right and al-Hsej on the left. The se7b of as-Sultanijje 
runs from al-Kalhi. South of this se%b and north of al-Ehzéri stands the 
small shrine al-Weli “Azzam. 

There was once a pregnant woman who was walking along the 
seashore, unable to find any water. Being very thirsty, she knelt down 
and begged Allah to have mercy on her. At that very moment she gave 
birth to a male child. Being too weak to hold him in her arms, she laid 
him beside her on the ground, and behold, at the child’s feet a spring 
gushed forth. Allah had saved mother and child. The spring, hence, is 
holy, and it is called ‘Azzam. This story is probably an echo of the legend 
of Hagar and Ishmael in Genesis, 21:15. 

Farther south the Se‘ibdn of Gennijje, al-Rurajje, and al-Klejb extend 
from the hills of an-NateS toward the sea. These Se%bdn start in the 
mountains of Krejdat al-Arnab, al-Ashab, and al-Mhejmez, south of Srejf 
al-Maktale. At al-AShab rises the se%b of Ralal; at al-Mhejmez the se7iban 
of Umm Hasa and an-Nimrijje, in the latter of which is the spring of 
Tireb. To the east of an-NateS the se%b of an-Nekwa joins al-Klejb, 
dividing an-Nates from as-Sakka. The southern border of an-Nates is 
formed by the se%b of an-Nhejl. From it the mountains of al-Korzijje 
and as-Sikijje rise to the southeast, descending steeply to the sea near 
the copious well Bir Marsa’. The se%b of the same name ends in the 
Setb of Harhtra near al-MarSa’. To the south of the latter the Secban 
run in a southwesterly direction and end near Tajjebt Ism, where there 
is a small grove of date palms. 

Tajjebt Ism is a small oasis belonging to the “Amarin clan, which 
comprises only eleven families. Formerly this clan possessed the whole 
region between the valley of al-Abjaz and the sea, but the greater part 
of the families have migrated to the neighborhood of Wadi Misa. 

The large spring of al-Lawi rises between Tajjebt Ism and Bir 
Marsa’, north of the se%b of as-Swéhel. It is situated at the foot of the 
Gehaman, which we could also see both from Ab-ad-Dén and ‘Elw as-Sirr. 

East of ‘Elw as-Sirr the ridge of al-Farwa forms the watershed 
between the Sevbdn running in a westerly direction and the deep valley 
of al-Abjaz extending southward. This valley starts near the shrine al-Weli 
Sam‘tl, at the junction of three branches. The longest of these is as-Sahab, 
which extends from the east, from the hills of az-Zorf and the ridge of az- 
Zahr. On the left it is joined by the se7%bdn of al-“Ajenat, az-Zell, aS-Srejf, 
and al-Kiswe, and on the right by as-Sukka, which comes from the cones 
of al-Malfi and Abu Rhajjat. The northern branch, al-Wa4set, begins 
under the name of al-Hsajd, between Umm Burka’ and the rocks Hzejb 
al-Biz and al-Mu‘allak. The se%badn which merge with it on the right 
are al-Hawi (in which is the spring of al-'Aw®gijje), al-Bakra, Ammu 
Kazm, Ammu-t-Tin, and Se‘iban ar-Razijje; on the left it is joined by 
Umm Gaser (which comes from near the well of the same name on the 
northern foot of the ar-Rilan rocks), by al-Mgejfel (which rises between 
ar-Rilan and al-Kahaze), and finally by al-Hrejg. The third branch, as- 
Sejale, starts from the ridge of al-Farwa and divides Klejb ar-Retame 
from the Ektan rocks. With the valley of al-Abjaz merge on the eastern 
side the following seibdn: al-Harakis, which begins among the rocks of 
Rurab; Srejm and Tbét, coming from the large mountain al-Ma'tijje; 
al-Hbejt, bordering al-Mwéleh to the south; al-Mhemm, which joins with 


AL-“AKABA TO MADIAN of 


al-Hegijje; Sejh al-Ksejr; al-Metaha; as-Sdejr; al-"-Emejk; ‘Alegan, made 
by the junction of al-Mhatta and al-Rara; Amwas, formed by the combination 
of Fejhan, ar-Raha, and Emtan; and, finally, at the water of al-Bed* and 
ruins of Hawra, the se%b of an-Nmejr. On the right the valley al-Abjaz 
is joined by the shorter se‘ibdn of Sidd near the spring of al-Wugéra, 
by a&-Seraf, as-Se‘éd, at-Tleje, al-Hsane, MaSra’, Umm ‘E88, Harm al- 
‘Aker, Asejher, az-Zerafa, al-Makje, and Ekdad. 


‘ELW AS-SIRR TO THE SE‘IB OF AL-MISMA’ 


Having spent a peaceful night, we left our encampment 
at 4.34 A. M. on Friday, June 10, 1910. There were a number 
of isolated rocks scattered over the plain, among them, on 
our right, the small red rock of al-Hmejdijje, said to be in- 
habited by a spirit. At 5.20 we reached the rocks of as-Saraf 
and Umm Gidde, between which the Pilgrim Route of as- 
Sultanijje swings off, maintaining, however, its generally 
southeasterly direction from al-‘Akaba to the se%b of as- 
Seraf, through which it reaches the wddi of al-Abjaz where it 
trends southward.” 

Leaving the Pilgrim Route, we rode in a southerly di- 
rection along the foot of ad-Da‘&anijje. At six o’clock we met 
two riders on camels and three wayfarers traveling from west 
to east. Having greeted our guide, they stopped with him 
for about ten minutes, after which the riders went on east- 
ward, while the wayfarers joined us. Falling into conver- 
sation with them, I discovered that one had an admirable 
knowledge of the region, so I asked him to accompany us as 
a guide. He accepted my offer and told me that he was going 
to fetch his riding camel which his father was watering at 
the well of Bwara. 

At 6.24 A.M. we entered a gap about three hundred 
meters broad and rising to the south, which we followed 
until 7.20, when we halted. The baggage was unloaded, and 
Isma‘in and Serif, together with the old guide, drove the camels 
to the well of al-Bwara, which flows in a deep se%b. The new 


29 AS-Seraf is the ancient pilgrims’ halting place, Saraf al-Ba‘l or Sarafe Beni “Atijje. 

Jakut, op. cit., Vol. 1, p. 675; Vol. 3, p. 278, mentions Saraf al-Ba‘l but does not 
know whether it is a place in Syria or a mountain on the Pilgrim Route from Syria. — 
Jakat was not familiar with the Pilgrim Route from Egypt. 

Al-Kazwini_ (died (1283"A._D.); “A gaib; (Cairo; 13821 A. HH.) Vole 15 p. 234, says that 
the mountain of Saraf al-Ba‘l rises on the Pilgrim Route leading from Syria to al-Medina. 
On it there is a large building for the statues of deities wrought so artistically in stone 
that it would have been exceedingly difficult to do the same work in wood. Everyone marvels 
at the height of the building, the size of the stones, and the length of the pillars. — The name 
Saraf al-Ba‘l is printed Sarak al-Ba‘l. The place now is full of isolated rocks curiously eaten 
away by sand and wind, rain, frost, and sun. 


98 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


cuide returned with the animals, but without his own camel. 
His excuse was that his father had driven it away; but the real 
reason was that he did not wish to risk his camel’s being 
stolen. I asked him to draw for me in the sand a plan of 
the whole shore of al-Hmejza as far as ‘Ajntna, with the 
various seibdn and the mountains from which they run. 
From his statements and his plan I myself drew a sketch 
map. Twice I rubbed out his drawing and asked him to sketch 
the Seibdn again —on each occasion from a different side — 
and I thus found that he never contradicted himself. His 
statements as to direction and distance were accurate. He 
measured distance either in terms of camel rides or of 
marches on foot. 

At 8.50 we proceeded farther southward. At 9.20 we 
reached the elevation of Krejdat al-Arnab, and we remained 
beneath a high granite peak until 12.30. Originally we had 
intended to eat, but we had five hungry ‘Imran with us, and 
our stock of supplies was already running short. Consequently 
Mhammad urged me to complete our cartographical obser- 
vations rapidly and then continue our journey. Only the 
heaviest baggage was unloaded from the camels, the lighter 
articles being left on them. Accompanied by the new guide, 
Taman and I climbed to the top of the peak, from which 
we intended to sketch the surrounding district. At first we 
went up a slope of crumbling stone which shifted with every 
footstep. We then clambered from boulder to boulder until 
we reached a projection which we took to be the actual sum- 
mit, but we soon discovered that the latter was situated 
farther on towards the west. It consisted of vertical ribs 
between which we cautiously climbed upwards. The upper 
ends of these ribs rose up like a wooden fence and were so 
smooth that we had to crawl among them at full length. 
The summit was formed by a single boulder three meters 
long and two meters broad at the top. As I am subject to 
dizziness, I could not look downward into the precipitous 
chasm, more than one hundred and fifty meters deep. Having 
completed our work, we went down again, the descent prov- 
ing even more difficult and dangerous than the ascent. Be- 
fore we were safely down blood was drawn from our hands 
and feet. The camels were already loaded, so that we could 
continue our journey immediately. Our uninvited guests had 
waited a long time for our return, but not knowing where 


AL~“AKABA TO MADIAN ah 


and when we should prepare the midday meal they had finally 
departed. 

Passing through a narrow, rocky ravine we came at 12.50 
P. M. to a se%b which contained an abundant growth of plants, 
and here we stayed until 2.30 P. M. Our guide was acquainted 
not only with the region lying between the right-hand side 
of the al-Abjaz valley and the sea but also with the territory 
situated to the east and northeast of al-Abjaz. From his 
various remarks I gathered that he was a chief of robbers 
and that he only occasionally visited his tent. He was willing 
to accompany us as far as al-Bed‘, where he had left with the 
Mesa‘id two stolen camels that he intended either to sell or 
to send to Egypt. Of all our camels, he liked best the one 
that Isma‘in was riding. He stroked it and patted it at every 
opportunity, which made Isma‘in afraid that the man would 
steal the animal during the night. 

At 2.59 we observed the mountain range of al-Mweéleh 
to the southeast. It consists of two horizontal strata, the 
lower one white, the upper one black. From this range proceeds 
the seib of the same name, which joins with al-Abjaz on 
the left-hand side. East-southeast of al-Mweleh rise two cones 
Ole abb, and southwest of these cones we could see the ridge 
of aS-Semrah with several high pyramids denoting the pass 
of al-Hegijje. On our left we had the head of the se%b of 
Seéd, which joins al-Abjaz opposite the se?%b of al-Mweleh. 
At 3.10 the guide showed me the spring of ‘Ejert al-KabS on 
the right, while on the left we saw the ravine of Hsij al-Benn 
with several black boulders, said to be possessed by spirits 
(mamlukat). At 3.20 we had the sev%b of al-Klejb on our right 
and at-Trejfi on our left. Through a gap in the left-hand 
rocky wall we perceived at 3.382 three palm trees above the 
fountain of Mojet al-Hsane. At 3.45 we rode around a large 
pile of stones heaped up upon the grave of al-Welijje Sa‘ide, 
or the holy woman Sa‘ide, who is said to help women in 
distress or illness. At 4.05 we observed the se%b of Medlig on 
the left, and south of it Mount az-Zrejbijje, with springs of the 
same name, from which proceed the seiban of ad-Dbaklijje 
and al-MeSall, which join with al-Hsane and end in Wadi 
al-Abjaz. 

We rode through the se%b of al-Hsane until 4.20, when 
we reached the red elevation of as-Snejd‘e and the shallow 


S26 ON Ai 


100 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


and white strata of the al-Lowz mountain range, south of 
which, on the mountain of al-Makla, we saw the high, white, 
shining pyramid of Nsejlet al-‘Ajn, from which the large 
spring al-“Ajn flows to the southwest. From this spring 
there are roads leading to the passes Nakb al-Madsts and 
Nakb al-Makla; and southeast of the latter is the well of 
Mat‘ama with the holy tree of the same name. The pass of 
al-Makla divides the mountain range of al-Makla from the 
black mountain of ar-Raha. North of al-Lowz we saw a deep, 
dark gap —the se%b of al-Mhemm — and east of it a clear, white 
strip, which was the road to the pass of al-Hegijje, near 
which there is a well with good water. To the left of us rose 
the hills of al-Kattar, and on our right to the southwest the 
guide pointed out the spring of Riha at the foot of al-AShab. 

At 4.24 we crossed the se%b of an-Nwéb‘e, which starts 
on Mount al-Mhejmez from the spring of the same name. 
West of al-Mhejmez flows the spring of at-Tireb, and south- 
west that of SowSa. The region through which we passed was 
completely barren. There was no vegetation on the rugged, 
rock-strewn slopes; in the river beds there grew some scattered 
ratam and rimt, but no verdure was upon them. The guide 
drew my attention to the fact that we were approaching an 
area in which there had been no adequate rain for four years 
and that he therefore doubted whether we could find any 
pasture for our camels on this part of our journey. 

At five o’clock we reached a low elevation called ‘Arejf 
al-Ralajin, where the Arabs dig out meerschaum from which 
they cut their short pipes. Smokers from the whole of the 
northern half of the Heg&az are said to come here. Many of 
them carry away on their camels as much as two loads of the 
soft stone and sell it to their fellow tribesmen. Southwest 
of ‘Arejf al-Ralajin rises Mount Mrah, the vertical ribs of 
which surmount the ridge by almost four meters. In the 
broad se%tb of al-MaSra’ we found numerous traces of Arabs 
and their flocks, arg matktika (trodden ground), but no 
pasture for our camels. The guide pointed out to me Mojet 
Sowsa in a short se%b to the west and to the east the large, 
black mountain as-Sa‘al. At 5.25 we crossed a footpath leading 
to the spring of ‘Arejg&a, and at 5.35 we perceived the broad, 
gray ridge of al-Hbejt running in the direction of al-Abjaz. 

It was 6.15 before we found at the eastern bank of the 
Seib of al-Misma’ a few green rimt bushes, beside which we 


AL-“AKABA TO MADIAN 101 


encamped (temperature: 30° C). The camels were hungry and 
tired and the road was stony, so that we could not leave this 
place after our evening meal. We therefore made a fire under 
a large boulder, but after cooking the supper we immediately 
extinguished it in order that its flame might not betray us. 
The camels knelt, one close beside the other; whereupon 
we fastened their two front legs together. Then we lay down 
in a circle around the animals, with the new guide between 
Isma‘in and Mhammad. He was not called upon to act as guard 
during the night. 


THE SETB OF AL-MISMA’ INTO WADI AL-ABJAZ 


On Saturday, June 11, 1910, we started off at 4.84 A. M. 
(temperature: 22° C) through the se%tb of al-Misma’ which 
forms the beginning of the se?%b of Asejher, in which, at five 
o’clock, our guide Sliman pointed out to me the water of al- 
Harada. He also showed me farther to the southeast on the 
left side of the wddi of al-Abjaz the deep gaps formed by the 
Seiban of an-Nzérat that join with as-Sdejr and al-“Emejk. 
South of them we could see the sev%ban of al-Mhatta and 
al-Rara extending to the se%b of ‘Alegan. At 5.20 we saw 
the narrow peak of Ab-ad-Dén to the southeast. We then 
came to the beginning of the se%b of Zerafa, which forms 
the western border of the territory belonging to the ‘Emérat, 
a clan of the Hwetat at-Tihama numbering about one hundred 
tents. On the south their territory extends as far as the oasis 
of al-Bed‘, on the north as far as al-Weli Sam‘ul, and on the 
east it reaches to the mountain of Semrah and al-Makla. South 
of this clan the Mesa‘id encamp, and to the north the ‘Imran. 
At 6.04 we rode between the rugged hills of al-“Ajdijje and 
the mountains of Abu Rijas, where the Se%b of al-Hkaf begins. 
After being joined on the right by the Se%bdn of asS-Sarma 
and Gehaman, which extend from the mountains of Ardad, 
al-Hkaf penetrates the hills of ar-Rafid and ends on the 
seashore near the oasis of Tajjebt Ism. 

Our guide explained that the territory between Hakl and 
Tajjebt Ism used to belong to the ‘Amarin clan. They had 
migrated to Egypt and to the neighborhood of Wadi Musa, 
so that only about ten families remained in the original territory 
and these few were now encamped with the ‘Imran. The latter 
are also accompanied on their nomadic wanderings by about 


102 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


twenty families of the Fawajde clan of the tribe of Beni 
‘Okba, which once ruled over the tribes of the Ma‘aze and 
the Hwetat at-Tihama and is said to have been descended 
from the Tamtd tribe that built rock dwellings at al-Hegr 
and Morajer Su‘ejb. Today the ruins of these dwellings, as 
well as the oasis of al-Bed‘, belong to the Beda‘in clan of 
the Mesaid tribe. The Mesa‘id are not akin either to the 
‘Imran or to the Hwetat at-Tihama, and they form two equally 
numerous clans, the Beda‘in and Farahin together consist- 
ing of about one hundred and twenty tents. The Farahin 
sojourn for the most part between the se%b of al-Kijal and 
Ras Fartak (Cape Fartak), while the Beda‘In remain north 
of them between the oasis of al-Bed‘ and Makna on the 
Seashore. 

At 6.88 we rode through the se%b of al-Makje and 
approached the black mountain of al-HSérme. To the south- 
east we saw the mountain of Zihed, which resembles a kneeling 
camel. Its isolated peak rises above the entrance to the 
se%ib of al-Hrob. 

To the northwest rose the high obelisk of Ab-ad-Dén, 
separated from the lower one of Abu RijasS by the broad 
Seib of Farst ‘Edd. At 7.15 the broad se%?b of Frejst al- 
‘Ekejl opened out on our right. The region through which 
we were passing was completely void of life. Nowhere did 
we see animals or birds, nowhere was there any green growth 
of vegetation. The ratam bushes were absolutely bare, as 
though dried up, and even the hardy acacia sej7dl, which 
defies the drought, had not a single leaf. My right eye was 
not yet well, and my left one also began to pain me. The 
fever returned. 

At eight o’clock we had the huge mountain of Lebtn 
on our left, and we admired the mountains of ar-Raha and 
al-Makla, covered with a delicate veil of haze. These mountains 
form the watershed of the Wadi al-Abjaz — and thus of the 
Red Sea — and the lowlands traversed by the railway to al-Me- 
dina. West of the saddle Nakb al-Makla yawned the deep 
ravine of Fejhan, through which a road leads from the valley 
of al-Abjaz to the well al-‘Ajn and farther on to the 
passes Nakb al-Madsts and Nakb al-Makla. At 8.30, on our 
right lay the small se%b of Hajjij, with the water of the 
Same name at its entrance; at 8.40 we saw the small se%b of 
‘Ekejl, which comes from al-Klejhi and Trejf al-Bawwal. 


AL-“AKABA TO MADIAN 103 


At 9.28 we entered the Wadi al-Abjaz at the point where 
it is joined on the left by the se%b of ‘Alegan. In the broad, 
white river bed of al-Abjaz we found an abundance of rimt 
bushes, but they too were completely dead. However, on the 
left-hand side in a small basin through which winds the 
channel of al-Abjaz — below this point known as al-‘Efar or 
al-‘Efal— we could see a darker clump of rimt bushes at the 
foot of a high, black peak. We turned aside towards them 
and remained beside them from 9.46 until 12.42. Rain water 
had been collecting for some time in this basin, so the roots 
of the rimt were still able to nourish the grayish-green leaves. 
Our camels grazed on the rimt for a few minutes and then 
proceeded to search for other plants, but, finding none, they 
knelt down one after the other and rested. To us this was 
a discouraging sign, for it showed us that the animals were 
already very tired (temperature: 37.5° C). 

Accompanied by the guide and Tuman, I climbed up to 
the black peak, beneath which we sat down. The ascent 
required more than half an hour and was dangerous in places, 
as we had to crawl on our stomachs up the smooth slope. 
We named this peak Samra’ Timan (Fig. 34), and the guide 
promised to see to it that the Bedouins should call it by the 
same name. 

Southwest of Samra’ Timan rise the dark brown peaks of Kdad, 
Esdeh, as-Sokk, and al-Latt, from which the se7wbdn of at-Temile, as- 
Sokk, al-Ksara, Abu Hlejfi, and Abu Dwejme reach to the sea. On the 
watershed to the southeast rises the black range of ar-Raha, on the 
western slopes of which are situated the cones of Umm Gadeb, Self, and 
al-Fers. In the southern part of ar-Raha, by the cone of al-Fers, flows 
the spring ‘Ajn Marra, near which rises the se%b of at-Tmejmijje, joining 
with Fejhan. Somewhere near the middle of this se%b is the spring of 
Kammah, from which the pass Nakb an-Nassas leads eastward. To the 
north of Kammah is Nakb al-Ahejmer. To the south of ar-Raha the 
watershed is formed by the brown and white streaked hills of al-Mu‘affara, 
the southern spur of which is called al-Rajme. Az-Zihed towers to the 
west of al-Rajme and to the north of az-Zihed stretch the narrow ridges 
of al-Hrejbe, al-Mnife, ad-Dbejbi, aS-Sedih, al-Kbejda, al Hemara, an-Nmejr, 
Laha, al-Rarak, and Mikwan al-Hagg, which slope toward the southwest. 

A little before noon a strong, south-southwesterly wind 
arose which, though it failed to moderate the intense heat, 
at least set the air in motion and thus facilitated our breathing. 
We felt the full strength of it as we were moving toward 
the south through the broad valley of al-Abjaz. This valley 
is covered with a layer of fine sand, from which isolated 


104 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


clumps of vimt bushes emerge like small islands. It is bordered 
to the right and left by high, rocky walls, through which 
break numerous seibdn, large and small. After one o’clock the 
wadi became tapering and twined round the spur of Mikwan al- 
Hass, which extends towards al-Abjaz from the east. Egyptian 





Fic. 34—Samra’ Taman from the northwest. 


troops always occupied this spur when the pilgrimage caravans 
passed this way, for on several occasions the Arabs had 
attacked and robbed the pilgrims near here. Our guide Sliman 
related how his father Salem had taken part in such an 
attack. The Egyptian soldiers had built a wall of rough stones 
on the mountain spur, behind which they had set up two 
small cannons. Not seeing any hostile Bedouins anywhere 
about, they were looking at the approaching pilgrims, admir- 


AL-“AKABA TO MADIAN 105 


ing the decorated camels carrying gifts from Egypt to Mecca 
and the splendid palanquins of the Egyptian ladies and gentle- 
men, and keeping no watch on the higher rocks to the east. 
But it was precisely in these rocks that the ‘Imran were 
concealed with the Beni ‘Atijje. Creeping down softly toward 
the soldiers, they flung themselves upon them with a great 
shout. Some they killed, others escaped. The Bedouins set 
light to fuses and fired at the pilgrims who were crowded 
together in the narrow valley beneath the spur, where they 
were completely unable to defend themselves. The victims 
were thoroughly plundered by the Bedouins. Sliman said that 
his father carried off two camels, upon which he loaded 
various garments, carpets, and food, and that in addition he 
made off with a small bag containing forty-eight gold coins. 


TO THE RUINS OF HAWRA’ 


At 1.50 P. M. we saw on our right the small Se%b of 
Ekdad, which comes from Trejf al-Bawwal, and to the southeast 
we could see the flat elevations of az-Zerw and al-Rarak, 
composed of red and white strata. At 2.22 we had the small 
setb of Amwas on our left hand, and on our right the short 
Setb of al-Krejbat. 

Sliman recited a poem which he had composed in my 
honor, but Mhammad and Isma‘in would not let him finish 
it, declaring that they had composed a better poem; whereupon 
they also said a few verses. But Sliman disposed of them, 
saying that their verses were not original, being a mere 
repetition of his idea. 

Toward three o’clock there was a change in the appearance 
of the country. The serried granite mountains disappeared, 
and on both sides and ahead of us we saw limestone hills 
and uplands, covered at the foot with a moderately deep layer 
of sand. The slopes of these hills and uplands were more 
gradual than those of the hills through which we had come, 
and the sevbdn were shallower and broader but with no 
vegetation. At three o’clock we could see to the south through 
a notch of no great depth the high, red ridge of an-Nmejr 
and above it higher brown mountains with the white strata 
of al-Mu‘affara. The valley of al-Abjaz gradually grows 
broader, and the channel on the western side runs along a high, 
yellow escarpment known as Safra’-l-Bed*. This escarpment 


106 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


is composed of countless pillars nearly all of the same height, 
some of which are hollowed out and lie in the river bed. At 
3.22 we had the Se%b of Emtan on our left, while on our 
right, above the escarpment, were the uplands of Sbejlat and 
Sikh. At 4.12 we reached the defile of Ka‘edan Raber at the 





Fic. 35—From Ka‘edan Raber looking northeast. 


point where the escarpment of Safra’-l-Bed* swings off some- 
what to the southeast (Figs. 35, 36). The channel of al-Abjaz 
penetrates through the bend thus formed, thereby cutting the 
defile. The river bed, scarcely twenty meters broad and covered 
with a growth of dark green tarfa trees, is bordered on the 
right and left by walls more than fifty meters high, formed of 
horizontal, yellow, red, and blue strata. The rays of the sun 
were reflected from the southeastern wall, and there quivered 
a rainbow spectrum around the separate strips of color. Seen 
from the south, the defile produces an even more overwhelming 
impression. The southern facade resembles a gigantic fortress 
with olive-blue foundations, violet walls, and a high, slender, 
yellow, rectangular tower sharply cut with battlements and 
numerous round loopholes. Behind this fortress, far on the 
northeastern horizon, rises the purple mountain range of Lowz 


AL“AKABA TO MADIAN 107 


and to the south of it the half white and half black mountains 
of al-Makla and ar-Raha; while in front of the latter, nearer the 
valley, are the lower hills known as al-Hemara and al-Kbejda, 
the colors of which range from grayish-green to orange-yellow. 
In the river bed numerous half buried sejdl trunks were visible. 





Fic. 36—From Ka‘edaén Raber looking southeast. 


At 4.30 we reached a grove of dum palms and made our 
way across some ancient walls that stretched crosswise and 
lengthwise through the valley. These were the remains of 
gardens. Here the river bed is more than fifty meters broad 
and five meters deep and is completely covered with a growth 
of tarfa. From the south the fans of date palms beckoned 
to us, and at 4.55 we were near the palm gardens where 
here and there we could see huts built of palm leaves. Toward 
the east the gardens are shut off by a white marl slope about 
thirty meters high. 

On all sides there are springs of various sizes, the water 
of which flows together and forms a stream, beside which 
we halted at 5.20. Some men and women of the Beda‘in were 
watering goats and camels and filling their skin bags. The 
men scarcely replied to our greeting. But they inspected us 


108 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


with covetous eyes, asked what our intentions were, and 
wished to conduct us immediately to their chief who was 
encamped a few kilometers to the south. Isma‘in and Sliman 
declared that we would remain at al-Bed‘ that day to let our 
hungry camels graze and to rest ourselves a little, so that 
we could not visit the chief 
until the morrow. When the 
men and women had departed, 
we were joined by a youth 
about sixteen years old (Fig. 37) 
in a tattered shirt, who invited 
us to enter his palm hut. Thank- 
ine him for his courtesy, I 
offered him our hospitality. 
We were in urgent need of a 
companion belonging to the 
rapacious Mesa‘id, who would 
protect us from his fellow 
tribesmen. Knowing that he 
could obtain from us his fill 
of bread — which, he asserted, 
he had not tasted for more 
than a year—the youth began 
to drive our camels together, 
urging us not to camp by the 
water, because if we stayed 
there we should be stung by 
enats during the night. I asked 

Fic. 37—Our guide at al-Bed’. him to lead us to the caves 

Morajer Su‘ejb (Fig. 38). 

At 5.40 we left the meadow, through which flows the 
stream al-‘Efar, mounted a slope about ten meters high, and 
proceeded to the ruins of Hawra. These ruins are nearly 
five-tenths of a kilometer long from southwest to northeast 
and about four hundred meters broad. Half a kilometer to the 
south there are similar ruins, composed of piles of old building 
material, long, white foundation walls, and a quantity of débris. 
Not a single building had been preserved. They were con- 
structed of soft limestone, which, though very easy to work 
with, could not resist the wind, sand, and rain. It has dis- 
integrated into fine dust, some of which still hes in small 
heaps, while the rest has been carried away by the wind. 





AL--AKABA TO MADIAN 109 


There are about ten heaps of larger size and more varied 
composition, in which it might, perhaps, be possible to find 
something. 

Behind the ruins we branched off a little to the west 
into a small se?%b and found ourselves in front of monumental 
tombs hollowed out in the white limestone rock (Figs. 39, 
40, 41). These tombs obviously recall Wadi Musa. We encamped 
by them at 5.56. Having made some examination of the 
surrounding neighborhood, we obtained our geographical lati- 
tude for the evening (temperature: 31.8° C). 

Our new guide brought up a lame old man driving a lean 
goat, which he offered to sell for the sum of four megidij7at 
($3.60). Isma‘in and Mhammad handled the animal and then 
returned it to the old man with the suggestion that he let 
it graze until its bones were covered with at least as much 
flesh as one kata’ bird (see above, p. 94). I could not sleep 
at all during the night, as I was tormented by fever, and 
our new companion Salem kept up a continual shouting to 
warn any possible robbers that we were under his protection. 
Whenever Salem was quiet, our old guide, the robber Sliman 
(Fig. 42), shouted in an even louder voice that he would shoot 
anyone who interfered with us or our property. 


AT MADIAN 


On Sunday, June 12, 1910, I visited the necropolis of Mo- 
rajer Su‘ejb before sunrise. The tombs had been hollowed 
out of the soft limestone rocks. In front of each one the slope 
had been cut away to form a vertical wall, and through this 
wall had been cut a door that led into a large excavated 
room, on the floor and on walls of which were the individual 
eraves. Many of the entrances were adorned with crumbling 
decorations (Figs. 43—52). The necropolis is over one kilo- 
meter long and nearly two hundred meters broad, but not 
a single grave had been completely preserved. The soft lime- 
stone rock had crumbled and cluttered the rooms and the 
doorways. The best preserved graves are those in the western 
part, where the rock is somewhat harder; the northern and 
especially the southern parts have completely decayed. For 
more than two hours I crawled from tomb to tomb, search- 
ing for inscriptions, but I did not find a single one. They 
had been carved out in the soft limestone walls, which had 


110 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 








ANCIENT 
MADIAN 


METERS 
0 500 1000 


5 are 


Fic. 388—Map of the site of ancient Madian. 


AL-“AKABA TO MADIAN 111 





(Diced ay) 





Fic. 40 





EIG>AtL 


Fics. 39, 40, 41—In the necropolis, Madian. 


rhe THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


crumbled and vanished. But the walls of several tombs had 
received a fairly thick coating of firm mortar, and in about 
five tombs I came upon insignificant traces of Nabataean 
inscriptions written in black upon this coating of roughcast. 
Even of these, however, not a single letter had been com- 





Fig. 42—The robber Sliman. 


pletely preserved. After a vain search I photographed several 
tombs and then went on with Taman and Salem to the ridge 
of al-Msalla, where we sketched the surrounding district. It 
was not easy to reach this ridge, as its sides had broken 
away at a height of about ten meters, so we were compelled 
to make a detour of more than two kilometers in order to 
ascend it from the north. On the ridge we found about fifty 


AL--AKABA TO MADIAN 115 


circles marked out on a stone elevation. Salem said that those 
who wish to pray to Su‘ejb stand inside these circles. 


The lowland, in which the extensive ruins of Hawra and the oasis 
of al-Bed‘ are situated, is bordered on the east by the hills of al-Hards, al- 

















“Ah 


2 


Z sr 


eee ee goem 

















Fic. 43—A sepulcher, Madian. 


Y 


Kbejda, and a-Sedih; on the west by aS-Sikh, ‘Ag‘ige al-Ksara, and 
‘Abdejn; and on the southwest by al-Hamra and at-Tlah. To the north 
of al-Msalla extends the white plain of al-Brejtem; and to the southwest, 
al-Hamza, in which is situated the well of the same name. The rain water 
flows from both these plains through the se%b of Makna to the grove 
of date palms bearing the same name situated on the shore. 


114 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 











Torey l 
ts om: W000 ay 
z ' Yj 
] y 
Wy Wy Yy ti Y tl 
: y 
os ] Z, 
Y Y 2 
7 Z] Q&Mé 








Y////. mee 








Y 

7 JI 
Y Z A 
iT 


dl| I 





SCALE FOR ALL PLANS | 
i) ' 2 3 4 METERS 


























































































































































































































































































































z 































































































=== 


—SSS=_= 




















== =e Alig in q ou Ms 





























Fic. 47—Interior of a sepulcher, Madian. 


The oasis of Makna belongs to the Fawajde clan. They dwell in 
twenty huts, ‘ardjes, of palm leaves and cultivate about fifty date palms 
and large vegetable gardens. Al-Fawajde are the remainder of the Beni 
‘Okba tribe, various clans of which migrated during the seventeenth and 
eighteenth centuries, some to the territory of al-Kerak, some to Egypt.°? 

To the south-southwest of al-Hamra’ extend the limestone hills of 
Umm Kefa’, Umm Losof, and al-Mesadd, forming the watershed between 


30 Ptolemy, Geography, VI, 7: 27, records in northern Arabia Felix a place Makna 
or Maina, which is certainly identical with our oasis. The name Maina recalls the se7%b of 
al-Ma‘ajjenat, in which the settlement of Makna is situated. 

During his residence at TebGk, Mohammed imposed annual taxes upon the Jews living 
in the settlement of Makna and gave them a charter (al-Wakedi, Mardzi [Wellhausen], 
p. 405; al-Beladori [died 892 A.D.], Futt&h [De Goeje], p. 60). These taxes — which consisted 
of a quarter of the yield of the sea fisheries, date palms, and weavers’ looms — were received 
by ‘Ubajd ibn Jasir ibn Numajr of the Sa‘dallah clan, as well as by a certain Gudami from 
Banu Wajel, who went to TebaGk and became a Moslem. Mohammed assigned a hundred grass 
plots to ‘Ubajd’s horse, and these plots still belonged to the Sa‘d and WaAjel clans at the 
time of al-Wakedi (died 823 A. D.). Later, ‘Ubajd put his horse in the care of a certain 


AL-AKABA TO MADIAN 115 


Makna and the valley of al-Abjaz—the latter being known in its lower 
part as al-‘Efal. From these hills the setbdn of al-Mrejzel run to Makna, 
penetrating the table-land of al-Fhejtat, al-Harag, and al-Mab‘tk, in which 
rises the spring of al-Amrar; while the springs of “Ejane and al-Far- 






































oaee Sb soe Atos Sead dale a 
ii . “sbiodsibitdiilisdddddiddiaididdiddddisiiddéddbiist 
5 a Zs 
{i Ss hog 33 Za Sit cen 
Weep \ oy Bae ¢ 
- E 
je ete 
oa he Se 
ak by, 
SEN Y 
Rina ZA ig tees 34 
——_/ tee Zo 4 
some U) 3 , Lt a Fae | 
Wy LEZ ff Uy EE 
WF NY ey Y= 
Cy 4 Ars ® CY a 
ae pa ee wg ‘ 
sae <<. Sipe = Wf 
Barret S LO EE: fF —— 
——_ _ L-- % ae) Y) 
a Sie LLL YY 
SLES pp irri eahi ae 
ie, UL 
by 02 -/43- ~ nae as ) \\, 
==, 
=A 
SS NN 











Fic. 48—A sepulcher, Madian. 


Jewess in the settlement of Makna, assigning to her sixty of the hundred grass plots. These 
plots were taken away from the heirs of the Jewess only toward the close of the rule of the 
Omayyads, but the heirs of ‘Ubajd did not obtain them. The charter was said to have been 
lost, and the one which was exhibited in the settlement of Makna at the end of the ninth 
century and which was intended for the Beni Hubejba and the inhabitants of Makna, was 
said to be an undoubted forgery. 

Ibn Hagar (died 1449 A. D.), Isédba (‘Abdalhaj), Vol. 2, p. 1070, does not believe the 
tale about ‘Ubajd’s horse. 

Jakuat, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 4, p. 610, writes that Makna is situated not far 
from Ajla. 


116 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 





Fia. 51 Fia. 52 
Fias. 49, 50, 51, 52—Sepulchers, Madian. 


ra‘i are in the se?%b of Makna. South of Makna the seibdn of Asmar and 
ar-RiSe run down to the sea. South of these se%bdn and south of the 
hills of al-Kebrit a white, rocky plain extends as far as the sea. In the 
southwest portion of this plain are cut the small coves, Serm Dabba and 


AL--AKABA TO MADIAN AN 


Serm Mugawwan; and to the southwest the plain forms two capes: Ras 
Fartak with the small shrine as-Sejh Hméd and Ras al-Kasba. 

To the east of Ras al-Kasba extend the se7bdn Wokob, as-Sbejti, 
al-Kmejle, an-Nahala, al-‘Asla—all three of which proceed from the pla- 
teau of an-Ndejra—as well as al-'ESS, Abu Zufra, and al-Kijal, rising on 
the southern slope of Matent as-Sujth. 

In the oasis of Kijal dwells the al-Farahin clan of the Mesa‘id tribe. 
This clan numbers about sixty families who live in tents or huts made 
of palm leaves. They cultivate date palms, pomegranates, and various 
vegetables.?! 

Al-‘Efal, or al- Efar, is joined on the right, to the south of al-Bed‘, by 
the broad valley of Umm HaSim, which extends from al-Hamra’ to the 
southeast between Umm Kefa’, al-Hbejrat, and at-Tlah on the west, and 
Twejjel Ged‘an on the east. Farther south al-“Efal is joined on the right 
by Rbejla, known in its western part as al-Msejr, which proceeds from 
ar-RisSe and penetrates Matent as-Sujth. From the east al- Efal is reach- 
ed by the sevbdn of al-Mhas, which begin under the name of al-Rarid 
near the ridge of aS-Sedih; by al-Marra umm Garda’, formed by the se‘iban 
of al-Homsi, al-Minkasi, Kdejdi, and al-Ktejbe, which come from the hills 
of ad-Dbejbi and al-Mnife; and still farther on by MSsas al-Hawa, al-Kus, 
and al-Hrob, the latter being joined by the Se‘ibdn of al-‘Esejle, ar-Raka, 
and al-Mrah, which begin in the mountain range of az-Zihed and al- 
Mrejfek. 

We had not yet finished our work when Serif, out of 
breath, shouted to us from below that the Mesa‘id had sur- 
rounded Mhammad and our camels and were about to steal 
the animals. Seizing our firearms we hastened with Isma‘in 
to Mhammad’s aid. Serif remained with the baggage. The 
attacking party numbered eight. From afar we heard them 
cursing the Government at Constantinople and the Sultan and 
threatening to kill Mhammad if he fired at them. The leader 
informed me that he would at once take me and all my effects 
to his chief, saying: “Order your companions to pack your 
things immediately and to come with us to our chief. Here 
in al-Bed‘ no Government issues orders, here he alone issues 
orders, and you must submit to his will.’ 

To this I replied: “I submit only to the will of Allah, 
by no means to the will of any of his creatures. There is no 
son of the Arabs in the whole of the Heg&az who could force 
me to do what I do not wish to do. Deliver a greeting to your 
chief from me and tell him that I shall not go to him, the 
chief of the Mesa‘id, but to the chief of the Hwetat at-Tihama, 


31 The poet Kutejjer (died 723 A. D.) describes (Jakit, op. cit., Vol. 4, p. 26) the 
journey along the valleys of al-Budaj‘, the well of Una’, and the shore of Kijal. — 

Al-Budaj° (not an-Nusaj‘, as is given in the text) is identical with the region of al- 
Bezi‘; the well of Una’ (not Uba’) with the well of ‘Ajnina’; and Kijal (not Kibal) with 
the valley of al-Kijal to the northwest of ‘Ajntina’. 


118 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


and I make known to all of you present that I am journeying 
before the countenance and under the protection of the chief 
Abu Tkéka, and he who harms me or my companions, or 
hinders us on our journey, let him fear the vengeance of the 
chief Abu Tkéka. You know that his sword is sharp and 
HiseariieicwmOno 

“We do not fear Abu Tkéka; he does not hold sway over 
us,” the Arab answered. 

‘Nevertheless,’ I went on, ‘“‘you pay him annual tribute 
for his protection and send him gifts. If you do not fear him, 
then know that there are six of us, that each of our rifles 
has six charges, each of our revolvers ten, and Allah, who 
led us into your country, will not permit a single one of our 
shots to miss its aim.” 

Paying no heed to the robbers and their leader,-I caught 
hold of my camel, urged it to kneel down, jumped into the 
saddle, and turned towards our baggage. My companions drove 
the rest of the camels on before me. We did not even look 
behind us at our assailants. 

While we were packing up our baggage, Salem, our com- 
panion, told me that he could not accompany me to the chief 
Abu Tkéka, as one of his relatives had killed a subject of 
Abu Tkeka, who attended to a palm garden in the oasis of 
Sarma; but he added that he had found another guide for me. 
This proved to be a man of about sixty, who had a very 
marked squint. Mhammad spat when he first saw the new 
guide and called upon Allah to protect us from bad omens 
and from the misfortune which is brought by every person 
who squints. 

At eleven o’clock we rode off in a southeasterly direction 
past the ruins of Hawra, crossed the stream of al-‘Efal, and 
at 11.26 halted by the ruins of al-Malha (Figs. 53, 54). This 
was a pilgrimage station established after the sixteenth cen- 
tury. Northeast of al-Malha appear the ruins of an old build- 
ing — the watchtower al-Birg, with a well. After halting 
for twenty minutes, we turned off towards the south and at 
11.55 came upon the large, quadrangular, ruined fortress of 
al-Malkata, situated at the southern edge of the oasis. Here 
the broad ramparts and deep trenches are still clearly visible, 
Surrounding great piles made up of ruins of old buildings 
that have fallen to decay. Some of the walls can be traced 
for a distance of one hundred paces. Only a strip of soft 


AL-“AKABA TO MADIAN EL 





Hirer. 


Fic. 53—Rain pool of al-MAlha. 
Fic. 54—From al-MAalha looking northwest. 


120 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


limestone, about forty centimeters broad, forms the remains 
of each wall on the surface. Around the fortress there is an 
abundant growth of dum palms. 

In the oasis of al-Bed° we found four settlements. The 
most ancient one seemed to me to be al-Malkata; the next 
oldest, the settlement to the south of Hawra; and the most 
recent, al-Malha and al-Birg. Hawra is certainly of Nabataean 
origin. 

According to the Arabic and classical authors, this oasis 
is identical with ancient Madian, the Madjan of the Arabic 
authorities. 


Go APH Rey, 
MADIAN TO THE OASIS OF SARMA 


AL-MALKATA TO AL-HRAJBE 


Having left the ruins of al-Malkata, we reached the ancient 
Pilgrim Route at noon and proceeded along it toward the 
south-southeast. After a short while we met two riders on 
camels, subjects of the chief Abu Tkéka, who were carrying 
a message to the ‘Imran. They informed us that ‘Afnan, 
the son of the chief, was living at al-Hrajbe. The Mesa‘id, 
who until now had been watching us from a distance, dis- 
appeared as soon as they saw that we were talking to the 
riders. 

The Pilgrim Road leads across a stony, bare, and almost 
flats plain, al-Rarama, bordered on the east by the red 
peaks of asS-Sedih and ad-Dbejbi. At 1.30 P. M. we crossed 
the Se%b of al-Mhas, and at two o’clock al-Marra umm Garda. 
From 2.30 to 3.25 we halted by al-Ktejbe in order to make a 
sketch of the surrounding district. At 4.05 we crossed the 
broad channel of Msas al-Hawa and perceived on the left a 
deep gap through which the se%b of al-Kus proceeds from the 
mountain. We reached this se%b at 4.30 and at 5.48 came 
to the channel of ar-Raka, or Araka, in which grew a quan- 
tity of green plants of the same name, but these our camels 
refused to touch. The se?b of ar-Raka joins that of al-Hrob. 
We searched vainly in the undulating plain, with its broad 
and shallow valleys, for pasture for our camels, but nowhere 
could we find any green vegetation, for everything was com- 
pletely dried up. But at 6.15 we found extensive groves of 
low dum palms, from which the ‘ardd shrubs stood out here 
and there by reason of their yellow color. Branching off east- 
ward from the highroad, we encamped at 6.45 in the deep 
seib of al-Hrob, which was covered with a growth of ‘ardd 
shrubs (temperature: 33.8°C). Our camels could now graze. 
I was feeling far from well, as I was racked with fever and 
physically quite exhausted. Fearing the rapacious Mesa‘id, we 
kept guard all night over our baggage and camels. 


121 


122 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


On Monday, June 13, 1910, we started off at 4.47 A.M. 
(temperature: 26.8° C), leaving the Pilgrim Route that leads 
to the southeast and proceeding southward to al-Hrajbe. This 
region is full of lofty, oblong heights with steep, rocky slopes 
and broad, fertile valleys; but the latter were completely 
parched, as there had been no adequate rain for the last four 
years. There was an impressive view to the east, where the 
sun was just rising. A chain of high granite mountains, ex- 
tending toward the southeast to within about fifty kilometers 
of the shore, concealed the sun in such a way that isolated 
rays penetrated only through the deep mountain gaps. The 
eastern peaks and angles of the granite summits shone with 
a clear light, while the western parts lay swathed in a dark 
blue curtain. Two thirds of the whole range were almost in- 
visible, for dense vapors rested on them; only the upper third 
projected above the mists. I felt as if I were standing be- 
fore a great exhibition of ecclesiastical architecture, save 
that I was not confronted with small patterns or diagrams 
of the various styles but with temples of all possible shapes 
in their natural sizes or even of gigantic dimensions. There 
was perhaps no variety of Gothic which was not represented 
there. The roofs and towers glittered in the sun’s rays and 
around them could be seen Gothic churches with countless 
turrets and windows, unequaled in wealth of ornament even 
by the Milan cathedral. Magnificent domes were displayed in 
every possible variety of style, and among them the attention 
was held by a number of cupolas, reminiscent of baroque 
architecture in its prime. Nor were the simple and magnificent 
forms of the earliest basilicas missing. And all these towers, 
turrets, roofs, columns, pillars, and statues were as if festively 
illuminated, shining with the clearest luster, while the houses 
and churches below were hidden in a mysterious twilight. My 
eye fondly clung to this splendid picture, and my only desire 
was that the sun should rise quite gradually. But suddenly 
the pure orb leaped above the highest towers, and all those 
temples, houses, and basilicas disappeared, leaving only the 
bare parched rocks before us. How beautiful is mere illusion, 
how prosaic is reality! 

At 5.02 we rode through the broad se%b of al-Mrah, in 
which the luxuriant, dark green ‘asla grows. 

To the east of this valley rise the plateaus of as-Se‘ede and Radma, 
and above these plateaus project the isolated black cones and ridges of 


MADIAN TO THE OASIS OF SARMA 123 


the granite mountains which form the above-mentioned chain on the water- 
shed between the Red Sea and the lowland near the Hegaz railway. Nam- 
ing them from the northwest, these mountains are al-Hejmri, al-‘Enejme, 
Dafdaf, Safwan, ar-Rawa, as-Sik, as- -Sati, and Kir. From al-Mu‘affara 
they approach the sea like an arch, so that between them and the moun- 
tains of az-Zihed and al-Rajme there lies a deep basin, from which the 





Fic. 55—The se%b of as-Swér. 


rain water flows to the oasis of ‘Ajnina. From the southern slope of the 
mountain of al-Mu‘affara runs the se%b of the same name; from Safwan 
comes the Se%b of ‘Azbe; from ar-Rawa and al-Haris, the seib of Rawa, 
near which rises the spring of al-Bsajjet; and from the plateau of Radma, 
the seiban of Umm Niran and Entés. 


At 5.42 we advanced through the broad ge%b of al-Gimm, 
which is covered with a growth of palm thickets and could 
be transformed into an extensive plantation of date palms. 
It forms the border of the region known as al-Hrajbe. At 
6.16 we crossed the Se%b of as-Swér, which contains a growth 
of dum bushes. From 6.45 to seven o’clock we halted in this 
seib, for among the dum palms we discovered a number of 
ratam bushes which our camels devoured greedily (Fig. 55). 
To the west there rises the elevated ridge of Dabbet as-Swer. 

Proceeding on our journey, we rode through the hillock 
range of Berk al-Mhassab with its deep and narrow Sse“iban 


124 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


and steep slopes, the eastern sides of which are covered 
with sand. 

All night long quite a strong northeast wind had been 
blowing. At sunrise the wind abated, but at 7.28 A. M. it 
began to blow from the southwest. 

At 8.40 we entered the se%b of al-Mhassab. In the sand 
drifts on both sides of this se%b there is a luxuriant growth 
of tonzob bushes, which in places form low trees. As soon 
as the south-southwesterly wind began to blow, the air was 
filled with innumerable horizontal veils of vapor, which rested 
nearly on the ground. The sun’s rays then penetrated and 
heated them, so that they became as a sweltering furnace. 
At 9.10 we again caught sight of the Red Sea through a gap 
in the Se%b of al-Mhassab. It was not red, but of a pale and 
even yellowish blue. The flat marshy shores merge into it 
without any sharp transition. Our guide Hsejn caught a large 
zabb lizard, which he tied up in his cloak, wishing to take 
it home as a delicacy. 

At 9.25 we passed from the hillock range to the flat 
shore, and proceeded to the southeast through a region covered 
with rimt shrubs and sejdl trees that make it resemble our 
orchards. But neither the vimt nor the sejdl was green; all 
the trees and shrubs were a pale yellow or a parched gray. 
Towards the northeast this coastal plain joins a green hillock 
range, behind and above which there rise the granite moun- 
tains. To the west, rising above the sea, were the pink rocks 
of the islands of Tiran, Senafir, Abu Suswa, Rajaman, Umm 
as-Sjele, Barkan, and al-Makstd. Close to the shore itself 
we observed numerous islets, among which a white sail was 
wending its way. 

At 9.42 we saw to the southeast the green palm groves in 
the oasis of “Ajntna, which belongs to the Dijabin and Zamahre 
clans of the Hwétat at-Tihama. It is situated at the foot of the 
red hillock range of Berk al-Mhassab at the point where the 
latter is penetrated by the Rawa se%b. Beneath the trees could 
be seen a number of white huts constructed of palm leaves.*? 


82 Ptolemy, Geography, VI, 7: 2, notes, on the coast of northern Arabia Felix, the 
settlement of Onne, which is identical with al-Hrajbe, the former harbor of the settlement 
of Una’ (‘Ajn Una’, -Ajniina’). 

Marcianus of Heraclea (about 400 A.D.), Periplus (Miiller), p. 527, speaks of Onne, 
as an emporium of Arabia Felix. 

Al-Ja‘kabi, Buldén (De Goeje), p. 341, writes that in his time (about 891 A.D.) the 
settlement of ‘Ajnina’ was inhabited, that it had palm gardens, and that buried gold was 
being sought there. — As early as the end of the ninth century the covetous natives were 
destroying ancient tombs and buildings. 


MADIAN TO THE OASIS OF SARMA 125 


The oasis of ‘Ajnina is famed for its good, fresh water, 
which once flowed through a walled aqueduct, now ruined 
in places, to the coast settlement of al-Hrajbe. We recognized 
this place from a number of palm trees standing on the 
shore itself. Behind the palms several stone huts have been 
built, but as they are of the same gray color as the shore 
they are indistinguishable from it. At ten o’clock we entered 
Wadi ‘Ajntina, two kilometers broad, which might easily be 
transformed into one great palm garden. On the southern 
side there rose a low elevation, upon which was situated 
a four-cornered building with the Turkish flag flying over 
it. This building, really no more than a spacious cottage, 
is the fortress of al-Hrajbe. West of the fortress, or rather 
of the barracks, there are a number of palms, and between 
them and the sea stand ten small trading huts built of marl. 


AT AL-HRAJBE 


At 10.28 A. M. our camels knelt down beneath the palms 
at al-Hrajbe (Fig. 56) (temperature: 35° C). As there was 
no pasture anywhere in the neighborhood, we tied their 
forelegs together, and instead of grazing they rested. Before 
long six traders approached us. They were young men with 
thick lips and broad, fleshy noses; and all of them were 





Al-Mukaddasi (985 A.D.), Ahsan (De Goeje, 2nd edit.), p. 54, assigns the settlements: 
of ‘Ajnina’, Wajla, Madjan, Tebak, Adruh, Moab, and Ma‘an to the administrative district 
of Sorar. 

Al-Bekri, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), p. 266, mentions the settlements of Hebra’ and 
“‘Ajntna’, situated between the Wadi al-Kura, and Syria, which Tamim ad-Darij obtained 
from the Prophet as a fief. Al-Kalbi thinks that these two settlements belonged to Syria. 
When Sulejman ibn ‘Abdalmalek (died 717 A. D.) journeyed there, he did not venture to 
spend the night in them, as he said, for fear of the Prophet. — 

Tamin ibn Aws ibn Harege ad-Darij was probably a Christian monk who passed 
over to Islam (see an-Nawawi [died 1278 A. D.], Tahdib [Wiistenfeld], pp. 178—179). 

The place Hebra’ is not mentioned by any other writer. Possibly it is a bad tran- 
scription for the settlement of Hawra’ situated near Madjan. According to al-Kalbi these 
two were the only fiefs bestowed by the Prophet in Syria, but al-Wakedi, Mardazi (Well- 
hausen’s transl.), p. 405, records that the Prophet bestowed also the settlement of Makna 
as a fief, and this is situated to the northwest of ‘Ajnina’. If Hebra’ and “Ajntina’ belonged 
to Syria, then Makna did also; and so there were then not two but three fiefs situated in Syria. 
Syria denotes the administrative district of Sorar. Al-Bekri places “Ajntna’ not in Syria but 
in the border territory. 

Jakit, op. cit., Vol. 3, p. 758, decides that it is possible to write either ‘Ajn Una’ or 
‘Ajnina’. According to him, Una’ is a valley on the shore between as-Sala’ and Madjan. 
As-Sukkari, the commentator on the Kitdéb al-lusis, writes that the settlement of ‘Ajntina’ 
is situated on the Egyptian Pilgrim Route. The poet al-Kutejjer refers to a journey from 
the valley of al-Budaj‘, by way of ‘Ajn Una’, to the slopes of Kibal. — 

As-Sala’ is identical with the modern al-Mwéleh and Madjan with the oasis of 
al-Bed‘; I locate the valley of al-Budaj© among the valleys of the region of al-Bezi‘; the 
place Kibaél must be read as Kijal, as the valley about twenty kilometers to the west of 
“Ajnina’ is called. 

Abu-l-Fada’il (died 1838 A. D.), Mardsid (Juynboll), Vol. 2, p. 294, records the form 
“Ajnuwunna’, which presupposes a name Unna’, recalling the Onne of Ptolemy. 

Jaktt, op. cit., Vol. 1, p. 367, also mentions the simple form Una’. It is a wddi near 
the shore of as-Sala’ and Madjan, through which the pilgrims passed. In it there is a 
spring which is called the spring of Una’, ‘Ajn Una’. 


126 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


dressed in thin white shirts and fine white turbans. They were 
eager to know what we were buying or selling. Behind them 
came two other men: one dressed in trousers, one leg of which 
reached only to the knee, and in a vest, while the second was 
wearing trousers similar to our bathing drawers and a thick 





Fic. 56—Al-Hrajbe from the northwest. 


padded coat. They introduced themselves to me as gendarmes 
and requested that I should visit the commander of the garrison, 
under whose command were fifteen infantry soldiers of the line. 

The commander was sitting in a hut which had been 
built north of the barracks. He greeted me very agreeably 
and offered me his services and help even before I had shown 
him my recommendations. He complained of the ruinous climate 
and the dreadful solitude in al-Hrajbe. The head commander 
resided at Jidda and paid no attention to the separate garrisons 
distributed along the coast. Once a month a ship arrived at 
al-Hrajbe from the settlement of Zbe’ with rice or dura 
(a kind of millet, a variety of Andropogon sorghum); once 
every two or three months a ship from Suez put in with flour, 
rice, and particularly clothing, which were exchanged for char- 
coal, obtained by the neighboring Arabs from sejdl, tarfa, 
and, in the highlands, from raza. Except for these vessels, 
nobody came to al-Hrajbe for months at a time. If the garrison 
was relieved, it received food supplies for six to twelve months. 
When I mentioned that our flour was running short, the 


MADIAN TO THE OASIS OF SARMA 127 


commander immediately offered me some of his own for sale. 
His flour was clear white, but half mixed with potato flour. 
The officer and the soldiers declared that they had enough 
to eat, but that they were suffering from various diseases, 
They were afraid of water, especially of sea water. Not 
a single one would bathe in the sea, and they washed only 
when it was absolutely necessary and then only in a super- 
ficial manner so as to carry out the command of their religion. 
They were firmly convinced that all the diseases which were 
rampant at al-Hrajbe came from the sea and that the deeper 
a man plunged into the sea water, the sooner he would catch 
them. They were afraid of water, but they drank distilled 
liquor, ‘arak, which was brought by the vessels from Suez. 
The officer’s family dwelt in a cottage of palm leaves built 
in an old cellar which had been somewhat cleaned out. The 
commander showed me a rectangular pool to the east of the 
barracks where the aqueduct from ‘Ajntina ends. 

Southwest of the pool had been laid out gardens of date 
palms, which, though not large, were carefully tended. They 
were the property of the chief, Abu Tkéka, and his son 
‘Afnan was then inspecting the promised harvest for that 
year. AS soon as I left the commander, the chief’s son came 
to call upon me. He was about twenty years of age, puny 
and frail, with a dark-colored face like all the coast dwellers. 
On his head he wore a fine white kerchief fastened with 
a broad, bright-colored string. A thin white shirt, over which 
was a loose white cloak, covered his body, and he wore large 
sandals on his feet. The expression of his face was gentle, 
his eyes were large, and the edges of his eyelids were darkly 
tinted with kohl (collyrium, antimony powder). After the 
usual greetings I asked him to furnish me with a guide to 
Tebuk. He told me to visit the territory of his tribe and 
then to travel to Tebtk from Zbe’. I thanked him for his 
kind invitation and promised him that I would be sure to 
visit their territory, but not for about a fortnight. The 
scientific investigation of the territory of the Hwetat at- 
Tihama demanded at least twenty days, and our supplies 
were not sufficient for that length of time. When leaving 
Ma‘an, I had taken supplies for only fifteen to twenty days, 
for I had supposed that I should be able to survey the 
region lying east of the railway and within the allotted time 
reach Tebutk, to which place I had arranged that all my supplies 


128 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


should be transported by railway. But the war between the 
Hwetat and Beni ‘Atijje on one side, and the Beni Sahr and 
Sararat on the other, had prevented me from traveling to 
the east of the railway. Consequently, I had proceeded west- 
ward to al-‘Akaba, and had already been on the road for 
eighteen days. The uninvited guests had partly helped us to 
diminish our supplies so that not even the additional flour 
which we purchased was adequate, and there was no other 
food to be had. In addition to that, I needed photographic 
plates and gifts for the head chief of the Hwétat at-Tihama 
and his relations; our camels were tired and hungry, and we 
learnt from ‘Afnan that in the whole territory of his tribe 
there was absolutely no pasturage; in fact, his father had 
sent his horses to Egypt and had entrusted his camels to 
the protection of Chief Abu Sama, who was encamped to the 
west of al-Hegr. It was therefore necessary for us to proceed 
to Tebtk to obtain the necessary supplies there and to give 
the camels a rest and good pasturage. I proposed that after 
a stay of about ten days at Tebtk we should return to the 
coast territory of the Hwetat at-Tihama, through which 
I intended to travel as far as al-We&h, where I could visit 
my old acquaintance Sliman eben Refade, the head chief of 
the Beli tribe. From al-Wegh we were to go to al-Hegr, to 
which place our supplies were likewise to be transported. 
When ‘Afnan heard that I intended to return to his 
territory, he promised that he would give me a guide who 
would conduct us as far as Tebtk and from Tebutk to Zbe’. 
When I asked him where I should find this guide, he an- 
swered that he was now sojourning in the oasis of Sarma 
and that he would send for him. I suggested that we should 
immediately set out for the oasis of Sarma, as our camels 
had no pasturage at al-Hrajbe. But neither ‘Afnan nor the 
commander, who meanwhile had joined us, wanted to let me 
leave al-Hrajbe at once, and it required a long time to obtain 
their consent. ‘Afnan declared that he would come with me 
and asked me to have the water bags filled. At al-Hrajbe 
there is plenty of water, for wherever a hole about four 
meters deep is dug water is found, but it is quite salt. For 
that reason drinking-water is brought from the oasis of ‘Ajntina. 
We filled one skin with salt water, while the officer had the 
other one filled for us with good water from ‘Ajntna, and 
when we left al-Hrajbe at 2.30 he accompanied us some distance. 


MADIAN TO THE OASIS OF SARMA 129 


THE HWETAT AT-TIHAMA AND THE TURKISH 
GOVERNMENT 


‘Afnan was riding on a very lean white camel, and his 
two negroes went on foot. His father, the head chief Abu 
Tkéka, generally resided in the settlement of Zbe’ where the 
muhdafez*® of the wali of the town of Jidda also dwelt. 

The tribe of the Hwétat at-Tihama** is composed of the 
following clans: 


al-“Emerat Selémijjin al-Gawahre 
al-Mesa‘id al-“Obejjat al-Kbézat 
ad-Dijabin al-Mawase al-Fahamin 
az-Zamahre al-MeSsahir al-Gerafin 
at-Tkeékat al-Kur‘an 


Until 3.40 we rode along the shore in an almost easterly 
direction and then turned southward. We met four men going 
to al-Hrajbe. They were farmers who tended ‘Afnan’s gardens 
at Sarma in return for a quarter of the net yield. They 
joined us. At 4.15 we rode into the broad, marshy lowland 
of Wadi Sarma. Here and there rise low, sandy drifts and 
cones, from which grow tonzob and rimt. Between them 
stand serried groups of sejdl trees. We saw, on the peninsula 
of Msajbet Sarma before us, a large ruined building and in 
front of it Ksér abu Tkéka, a large, roofless, four-cornered 
house with broken windows. Both buildings had been erected 
for the use of pilgrims by the chief Abu Tkéka, but as the 
number of pilgrims was growing smaller year by year, the 
houses were deserted and falling into decay. 

At 4.50 we encamped near a small hovel constructed of 
palm leaves, which also belongs to the family of Abu Tkéka, 
the members of which use it as a nocturnal lodging when 
they visit the oasis of Sarma. They are afraid of the oasis, 
because the ague is said to lurk there at night and to attack 
every stranger who ventures within its domain. The oasis 
itself appeared to us as a broad, dark strip lying towards 
the east-northeast. 

Sitting down with ‘Afnan about one hundred paces from 
the rest of the party, I asked him whether the inhabitants 
of the coast were satisfied with the Turkish Government. 
His reply was voluble: 


33 Vernacular equivalent of kdjmakdam. 
34 See Musil, Arabia Petraea, Vol. 3, pp. 48—49. 


130 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


“May Allah curse the Turkish Government! What do we 
get from it? They give us nothing and oppress us wherever 
they can. In every harbor they have placed a toll collector, 
but they pay no heed to the harbor itself, or to the buildings 
which are necessary for the storing of goods. All along the 
shore they have placed regular garrisons who do not protect, 
but harass and exploit us. I am sorry for the soldiers who 
die here or who are killed by our arms. They are destroyed 
by the climate, to which they are not accustomed, and they 
are destroyed by us when they steal our goats, sheep, and cows. 
They are supposed to protect us against our enemies, but they 
do not venture even so much as a gunshot beyond their bar- 
racks and indeed scarcely dare even to thrust their heads out- 
side the doors. It is a good thing that they let us have their 
ammunition and even their firearms by trade or sale. And these 
poor wretches are the representatives of the Turkish Govern- 
ment in our country! It is no wonder that we hate and de- 
spise the Turkish Government as we do. It never occurs to 
us to pay any attention to what is happening in Constanti- 
nople, but we are all interested by what is happening in Egypt 
or among the English. The Turkish soldiers and ourselves 
have Turkish money, it is true, but we fix its value accord- 
ing to Egyptian or English money. Our traders maintain 
trading relations only with the Egyptians and the English. 
They read Egyptian newspapers and tell us about everything 
that they learn. The poor people go to Egypt to find work 
and profit, and when they return home a few months later 
they proclaim the splendor of Egypt. We all want our coast 
to become a possession of England, or at least of Egypt. 
When the Viceroy of Egypt, the Hediwi, made a pilgrimage 
to Mecca this year, we supposed that he would become our 
master. But we were mistaken. If we belonged to the Egyp- 
tians or the English, all the settlements on our coast would 
flourish. Our oases would be capable of feeding thousands 
of people. Thou visitedst al-Bed*, Musa; thou sawest al-‘Efal 
and thou wilt see Sarma, so thou wilt believe it when I tell 
thee that at al-Bed‘ and al-‘Efal and in the Se‘ibdn situated 
to the east thousands and thousands could find nourishment. 
The whole of this region could be planted with palms and 
transformed into a garden. And ‘Ajntna, the coast by al- 
Hrajbe, the whole of the wudijdn of Sarma, Terim, and as-Surr, 
the neighborhood of Zbe’ and other places could be inhabited 


MADIAN TO THE OASIS OF SARMA 131 


by peasants, if the safety of our lives and property could 
be guaranteed. We are told about Paradise which we have 
not seen, but the whole of our coast could be made a single 
paradise and we could dwell in it.” 

“Who taught thee, ‘Afnan, to speak thus?” 

“My father, my uncles on my father’s side, and all with 
whom I meet. Betake thyself, O Musa, to al-Mwéleh or Zhe’ 
or Zahakan, and everywhere thou wilt hear the same thing 
that I, ‘Afnan, am telling thee.” 

We were disturbed in our conversation by three riders 
on camels arriving from the south. They were going on the 
Darb ar-Rakak road as far as the as-Sarma valley, where 
they had branched off to the oasis, and, having discovered 
that ‘Afnan was sojourning at al-Hrajbe, they had wished 
to go there to see him. But the slave, whom ‘Afnan had sent 
into the oasis for the sheep, had told them that ‘Afnan was 
to be found on the peninsula of al-Msajbe, and they had 
therefore journeyed to us. While ‘Afnan was discussing thing's 
with one of them, the other two drew in the sand for me 
a map of all the surrounding neighborhood from al-Geles 
to the sea, indicating the hills and mountains by means of 
small stones and cutting the courses of the various sevbdn. 
They were admirably acquainted with the whole region, espe- 
cially the elder, who, quite unabashed, declared that when he 
had been a young man he had been fond of going on maraud- 
ing expeditions and that he had spent months at a time in 
the ravines of the granite mountains which separate the 
coast valleys from the northern highlands. From his indi- 
cations we drew a map of the whole coast area and fixed 
the position of the mountains in sight, from Mount Ral in the 
south as far as Ornub in the east and az-Zihed in the north. 

Msajbet Sarma is actually the eastern extremity of a 
strip of dry land which formerly extended westward nearly 
as far as Ras al-Kasba. This strip was broken through by 
the sea in six places, and of it there remain six larger islets 
and several smaller ones. Between them and the northern 
mainland there is a bay about twenty kilometers broad and 
sixty-five kilometers long. During the reign of the Ptolemies 
these islets were explored, and detailed accounts of them and 
the coast have been preserved to us from the second century 
before Christ.*? 


35 See below, pp. 302—308. 


132 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


TOPOGRAPHY OF REGION BETWEEN SARMA AND BADA’ 


To the southeast of the peninsula of Msajbet Sarma rises the table- 
land of an-Nuhbar, and, to the south of the latter, Burka Krajkre, which 
passes eastward into al-Hamtim. Near Burka Krajkre the se%b of ar- 
Ratijje proceeds seawards, and farther on are Rowz al-“Abd; Terim; 
al-Wakzan; Swér, near the village of Sawra; Abu Seriha; al-Mrir abu 
HaSsim, separated by the elevation of as-Safra from al-Mrir abu Hajme; 
at-Twejjek; Umm Gejhile; al-Mestebek; az-Zawge, proceeding from the 
spring of Ammu Sjejle in the hills of al-Asajle; Smejr Gaber; al-Kamre; 
al-Fsér, which rises in al-Frejs; Abu Dijje; as-Surr; and al-Haggar, form- 
ing the northern border of the elevation of Lehjane, through which winds 
al-Mistah, which begins in the hills of al-Mawkre. Southeast of these, the 
jagged hillocks of as-Snejwijje, Twejjel al-Kibrit, al-Béza, and Hméra- 
l-Krajker approach near the shore. The separate river beds form deep 
seibdn with steep banks, They are: al-Harr, which terminates in the 
harbor of the same name; al-Kmajjes, which ends in the harbor Serm 
al-Hirke; al-Béza; al-Madsts, which, joining Abu Rarajer and al-Mradder, 
reaches the harbor of Gibbe; al-Manatt; al-Mu‘arras, which passes through 
the salt swamp as-Sabha; ad-Derre; and Abu Serira and al-Ral, which 
form the southern border of the hills of Hméra-l-Krajker. Farther to 
the southeast the undulating plain nearly reaches the sea, towards which 
it falls in a gradual slope. Through this plain pass the se‘ban of al- 
Mhassam, ‘Ejane, aS-Skik, al-Hasi, Zahakan, Zbe’, Sidre, and al-Kfafi, 
all of which come from the mountains of aS-Srejh and Abu Ris. Farther 
on are: as-Salmi, with the spring of al-Bedi’; al-Gawha; Abu Tiran; 
al-Bahara; ad-Dama; aS-Sbérem and al-Marr, penetrating the hillocks of 
an-Nusba; al-Aznam; Hrajmel; ad-Duhhan; ad-Dhéhin; Balaht; al-Marra; 
Krejdahha; and Sa‘af. 

The longest valleys are those of aS-Sarma, Terim, as-Surr, al-RAl, 
as-Salmi, al-Bahara, ad-Dama, and al-Aznam. They all rise in the 
mountain chain which extends over a distance of fifty to one hundred 
kilometers from the sea in a southeasterly direction, forming a contin- 
uation of the watershed between the valley of al-Abjaz and the low- 
land through which the Hegaz railway passes near the Pilgrim Route. 
The mountains of al-Mu‘affara, which have already been mentioned (see 
above, p. 123), also stretch toward the southeast, and the same direction 
is followed by al-Hejmri, al-‘Enejme, Dafdaf, ar-Rawa, as-Sik, Ornub, 
an-Na‘ejza, and ar-Rawjan. The mountains of al-Meljan and ad-Dwejme 
trend toward the east, while Tmarr — which is next to them — swing's 
off toward the northeast. Naf, Nwejfat, al-Ktejfe, an-Nawméan, al- 
Keraker, al-Muhteles, as-Sowt, and az-Zelfe again trend in a southeasterly 
direction. 

The continuous chain terminates to the south of az-Zelfe. Here 
separate mountains diverge somewhat to the southwest and form a lower 
watershed. Thus, the lower spur of az-Zarba runs from az-Zelfe to the 
southeast and is joined on the west by as-Sane‘, with the cones of 
Narar and Nurejjer; while to the southeast of as-Sane* are grouped: 
Abu Tine; Mwéreb; al-Wited; al-Wutejdat; al-Gowla; al-Mahaza; al-‘ESSs; 
Ammu Rumejs, with the pass of al-Knej; al-Klib; as-Sa‘ad; al-Libne; 
al-Hasif; Hamt at-Tjis; Sahbat at-Twejs; as-Sel‘; and Shejb al-Baim. 


MADIAN TO THE OASIS OF SARMA 135 


WaAdi Sarma, the middle part of which is called al-Rarr and the 
upper part Umm Karadi, starts near the well of an-Na‘emi, between 
as-Sik and Ornub. Into it, on the right-hand side, run the Sse‘ibdn of: 
Umm HaSsim; ‘Ajn Kir; Bir az-Zerb; Abu Turban; al-Htan; ‘Ajn abu 
Hréra; “‘Anstrijje, rising near the ruins of al-Merw; Umm as-Sarabit; 
and al-Mellah. On the left it receives the se‘ibdn of: Abu Hamata; “Alas 
with al-Medaik; Ornub with al-Mathane, al-Hatijje, and Garagra; an- 
Nahala; Drejm; Abu Takar; al-HraSe; and Zehijje with Umm Hesim. 

Wadi Terim begins under the name of al-Hambara on the eastern 
uplands behind the chain of granite mountains to the north of the Tmarr 
range. At first it trends toward the west-northwest, but near the granite 
chain it swings off to the southwest and runs through the deep gap of 
al-Malhaga, between the mountains of Ornub and an-Na‘ejza, to the coast 
lowland, where it is called al-Kahala; it then waters the oasis of Terim, 
from which it receives its name, and comes to an end at the seashore 
near some ruins which bear the same name. In the uplands it is joined 
on the right by the seibdn of: Abu-l-Kawasim; Retaéme; and Zwejbt 
as-Sktr, the last-named being joined by the se“ibdan of Obejjez abu Zukra 
and Obejjez at-Tarik. Lower down on the right Wadi Terim is joined by: 
al-Agza‘, running from the well of the same name; al-Wejmijje, which 
rises on the western slope of Mount Razi near the well of Dkét; Harhtra, 
at the upper end of which flows the spring of az-Zab‘ijje; Ammu-d-Dtd, 
with the well of the same name; and Abu Dél, which extends from the 
hills of al-Mufa’. Wadi Terim is joined on the left by al-Kwéra, al- 
Fras, and at-Tawar, as well as by the long se%b of Sadr, which begins 
under the name of as-Swéwin at the foot of the mountains of ar-Rawjan 
and Hrejtat ammu Rgtm. On the right hand Sadr receives only the se7ban 
of ‘Azaza, through which a road leads to the pass Nakb al-Bdejje, and 
an-Namra; but on the left there merge into it: as-Safra, Ajlan, Umm 
Leben, al-Mrajfek, Nakwa, Turban, al-Wéwi, Umm Za‘za‘, Zunnara, Umm 
‘Akab, an-Nahala, Umm Sijale, and Umm Rarejmin.*® 

Wadi as-Surr runs from the defile Nakb al-Hrejta, between the 
mountains of Hrejtat ammu Rgtim and al-Meljan, where the spring 
of al-Hama has its source. On the right it is joined by the se“wbdan of: 
al-KSabrijje, into which ad-Dara and al-Gidde merge; and by the se‘ibdn 
of ad-Dbejjeb, al-Ktajfe, al-Kwémra, Ammu Mzérikat, and Ammu Skaka; 
on the left by al-Meljan, Umm Harga (with Abu-t-Tanazeb), al-Makhial, 
al-Musab, and Abu Hawawit. é 

Wadi al-Ral rises on the northwestern slope of Mount as-Sar 
near the springs of al-Mléh and al-Bdejje and, running in a south- 
easterly direction, separates the high ridge of aS-Sar from the lower 
cone of al-Kwajem. After this wddi is joined by the se%~b of Umm Girma, 
which comes from Mount al-Ral, it swings off to the west. 

Wadi ad-Dama begins in the pass Nakb al-Keraker, between the 
mountains of aS-Sirt and al-Muhteles, near the springs of ad-Difla and 
al-Lowza. It extends through the plain of ar-Rahaba and is joined on the 


36 Jakut, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 1, p. 846; Vol. 2, p. 727; and al-Bekri, Mu‘gam 
(Wiistenfeld), p. 196, assert that Ibn as-Sikkit places the valley of Tirjam close to Madjan. — 

As according to al-Bekri, loc. cit., the poet Kutejjer also was acquainted with the form 
Terim, we may infer that Ibn as-Sikkit identifies the oasis of Terim with the place called 
Tirjam situated not far from Madjan. 

Jakit, op. cit., Vol. 3, p. 270, locates the place called Sarawa near Tirjam at Madjan. 


134 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


left by the sewbdn of: al-Gbejl, in which there is a well of the same 
name; al-Bed‘, in which there are also a well and the ruins of al- 
Kantara; aS-Subejée; ad-Dijar; al-Malaka, united with Ammu Nsal; 
al-Bedi‘; Swak, coming from the ruins of the same name near the oasis 
that lies between the mountains of as-Sane* on the north and al-Hasim 
on the south; al-Handaki; al-Ktan; and the se%b in which are the wells 
of al-Mzéhfe and Abu Salama. On the right ad-Dama is joined by the 
Se‘ibdn of: Sagarat al-‘Arajes; az-Zarb; at-Tlejh; and the great Se%b of 
Tmarr, which begins between the mountain range of the same name and 
the mountains of Ntf, Nwejfat, and at-Twejme. On the right hand the 
seib of Tmarr receives the seibdn of: “Affan, near the Kart al-Hamra; 
and Salfiwa, which is joined by Farrase, as-Slejsel,?7 Ratje and Dahal, and 
by al-Ktejfe, which comes from Harm al-Bedarijje; while on the left 
hand the Tmarr se‘7b is joined by al-Mrejtbe, al-Hgejl, and an-Namra. 

Wadi al-Aznam rises among the mountains of Mwéreb, al-Wited, 
and al-Wutejdat; not far from the ruins of Sarab#° it is joined by the 
Seib of al-Etle and farther to the west by the se%b of Ziklab, both 
of which come from the southeast. 

Still farther to the southeast lie: Wadi al-Manabb, with the branches 
of Shejjer and ‘Anka, proceeding from the mountains of al-Mahaza; al- 
Knej and al-Medhem, rising between the mountains of Ammu Rumejs 
and al-Klib, near the defile of Nakb al-Knej; as well as Wadi as-Srim, 


87 According to Ibn Ishak (768 A.D.) (Stra, as edit. by Ibn Hisam [Wiistenfeld], 
Vol. 1, pp. 984—985; al-Bekri, op. cit., p. 780) “Amr ibn al-‘As in 629—630 A.D. penetrated 
the territory of the Gudam as far as the well of Silsil, from which his expedition was then called 
razwat as-Saldsel (raid to as-Salasel).— Our Slejsel is a diminutive of Silsil, and the spring 
bearing the same name is on the western slope of this valley. 

Al-Mas‘tdi, Tanbih (De Goeje), p. 265, writes that Dat as-Salasel, from which the 
raid of ‘Amr ibn al-‘As in 629—680 is called, is situated ten days’ march from al-Medina to the 
north of the Wadi al-Kura’. — As al-Mas‘tdi fixes the distance between al-Medina and Tebak 
at twelve night halts (ibid., p. 270), the position of Slejsel tallies exactly with the distance 
of Dat as-Salasel, for our Slejsel is situated nearly ninety kilometers (i. e. two days’ march) 
to the south-southwest of Tebtik, and the road from al-Medina direct to Slejsel is not as trouble- 
some as that to Tebak. The Moslems proceeded along the old transport route from al-Medina 
to Palestine and Egypt through the territory of the Beli — with whom ‘Amr was related 
through his mother — wishing to surprise the camps of the Beni ‘Udra from the west. 


38 At-Tabari (died 923 A. D.), Ta’rih (De Goeje), Ser. 1, p.395, explains that the descendants 
of the Patriarch Jacob dwelt below the Palestinian territory of Hesma’ in the coast region 
of aS-Sarab, where there are many caves. Jacob was a nomad and possessed camels and 
sheep. — 

The territory of Hesma’ is nowhere reckoned as geographically part of Palestine but 
always as part of the Hegaz. That at-Tabari calls it Palestinian must be explained by the 
political administration which incorporated the northern Hegaz as far as latitude 27° 40' N. 
— this comprising nearly the whole of the territory of Hesma’ — into the Syrian political 
area of Sorar. 

Al-Istahri (951 A.D.), Masdlik (De Goeje), p. 27, writes that the Beni Merwan gave 
the settlement of Sarab as a fief to az-Zuhri, an expositor of the oral tradition (see Ibn 
Sa‘d [died 845 A.D.], Tabakdt [Sachau], Vol. 2, Part 2, pp. 185—136) and that he was also 
brought up there. i 

Jaktt, op. cit., Vol. 3, p. 302, locates Sarba’ in the territory of the ‘Udra tribe. Ibn 
as-Sikkit relates that the place contains a pulpit (mimbar) and a market, and that in the 
settlement of Bada’ there is likewise a pulpit. According to others, Sarba’ and Bada’ are 
situated between al-Medina and Ajla. The expositor az-Zuhri Muhammed ibn Sihab was brought 
up at Sarba’ in the Hegaz. Bada’ of the Patriarch Jacob is a day’s journey from Sarba’. — 

It is not certain whether in the thirteenth century the Beni ‘Udra were still en- 
camped to the west of al-Hegr. As early as the tenth century Sarba’, which is certainly 
identical with our Sarab, had become the property of the Beli tribe, to whom it still belongs. 
Az-Zuhri, the famous expositor of the law, died in_742 A.D. 

According to Haggi Halfa (died 1658 A. D.), Gihadn numa’ (Constantinople, 1145 A.H.), 
p. 525, Azlam (so written instead of Azlad) is a bare, salt territory, a day’s journey wide 
and surrounded with mountains. In it the senna plant flourishes. In the year 1504—1505 A. D. 
Sultan al-Malek al-ASraf Kansth al-Rawri caused the pilgrimage station, built by Sultan 
al-Malek an-Naser Muhammed ibn Kela’tin (1298—1308 A.D.), to be fortified and provided with 
a military garrison. 


MADIAN TO THE OASIS OF SARMA 135 


the beginning of which forms the Se%b of az-Za‘ame, near which is the 
oasis of Bada’.*? 

Between the chain of granite mountains described above as steeply 
enclosing the coast region and the uplands to the east, there are nu- 
merous high hills, mountains, and elevations which give the region a 
distinctive charm. Thus, from the ar-Rawa range on the northern side 
of the Sarma valley there stretch westward the mountains of Kir, as- 
Sati, al-Abjaz, ad-Dubba, Ummu Rgtim, and Umm as-Sarabit. 

The watershed between a&-Sarma and Terim is formed by Mount 
Razi and the elevations of al-Hamtim, Kos al-Hnane, an-Nuhbar, and 
Burka Krajkre. Between al-Kahala and as-Sadr.the huge black cone of 
Harb rises to a height of 2134 meters. Mount Debbar, southeast of Harb, 
is higher, rising to an elevation of 2347 meters, and, with its spurs 
Hejstmi, Tor (or Towr) al-WuSem, Srejf al-Hatab, al- Gimm, al- Kalb, 
Ammu Gdejl, Zunnara, Rarrtr, and Wabri, forms the border between the 
valleys of Terim and as- -Surr. To the southeast of Hejsimi stretch the 
elevations of as-Sahhara and Kalha. 

Between the upper part of Wadi as-Surr and Wadi al-Ral extends the 
narrow but lofty ridge of as-Sar, which in its northwestern spur, Ras 
al-Ksejb, attains a height of 2000 meters. Between the eastern part of 
this spur and Mount Umm al-Frat cuts the defile Nakb abu Sa‘ar. To 
the southwest, from the ridge of a&-Sar, projects the elevation of al- 
Kwajem with the springs of al-Malha, al-Bdejje, Umm Casr, al-Lehjane, 
Abu Raka, and al-Hwét; to the west are the hills of al-Kumma, al-Mej- 
Seri, al-Mawkre, and Lehjane. The southwestern extremity of tie as-Sar 
ridge — known as Abu Sendder — is connected with the mountains of 
Ral and Ab-al-Bared, between which the pass Nakb Hwejd leads to 
the head of the se%b of Saliwa which separates the mountain of al-Ma‘in 
from as-Sahta. 

From Mount al-Ral to the southeast extend the hills of al-HawaAni, 
al-Me‘tedan, Rajdan, Ziklab, Rurab, and Talba, from which the ridge of 
Naz‘an proceeds in a southwesterly direction. The branches of the Tmarr 
Seib run eastward from Ab-al-Bared, between the ridges of as-Slejsel, 


39 Ptolemy, Geography, VI, 7: 30, was acquainted with Badais to the south of Soaka, 
(Swak), which is certainly our Bada’. 

Stephen of Byzantium, Hthnica (Meineke), Vol. 1, p. 155, mentions the town of Badeos 
situated in Arabia Felix near the shore of the Red Sea. 

Al-Mukaddasi, Ahsan (De Goeje), p. 84, records that at his time Bada’ Ja‘kGb was 
inhabited and its environs were cultivated. 

Al-Bekri, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), p. 148, locates Bada’ between the road from Egypt 
and that from Syria to al-Medina. He quotes passages from the poet Kutejjer, who mentions 
Bada’ together with Sarab, and also from the poet Gumejl, who connects the valley of Bada’ 
with the region of Hesma’ and the oasis of Sarab. — All these particulars are accurate. 
Bada’ is situated to the east of the Egyptian, and to the west of the Syrian Pilgrim Route. 
From Bada’ a road leads in a northwesterly direction to the oasis of Sarab and then in 
a northerly direction to the region of Hesma’. 

Jakut, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 3, pp. 463—464, says that Dabba is a settlement 
near the coast in the Tihama still belonging to Syria. Opposite, seventy miles from it, is situated 
another settlement known as Bada’, through which a stream flowed and which belonged to 
the Patriarch Jacob. From this settlement Jacob proceeded on a journey to Egypt to his 

son Joseph. — Dabba is the modern Zbe’ on the coast. At a distance of 130 kilometers, or 
over seventy miles, to the southwest of it is situated our Bada’, watered by a stream which 
swells into a wild torrent after abundant rains. 

Elsewhere (ibid., Vol. 1, p. 523) Jakat states that Bada’ is a valley on the coast 
near the town of Ajla, or an oasis in one of the valleys of the Beni ‘Udra territory, or that 
it is located in Wadi al-Kura’. — The two last details are inaccurate. Both the territory of 
the Beni ‘Udra and al-Kura’ lie to the east and southeast of Bada’. 

Al-Kazwini (died 1283 A.D.), Atdr (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 2, p. 104, likewise recalls the 
oasis of Bada’. 


136 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Sawd al-Lehfid, Kart al-Hamra, al-Mhajnek, Sdejjed, ar-Rwejt, al- 
Mrejtbe, al--Emdén, Nezaha, an-Namra, and Ummu Rmejt. To the south 
of al-Mhajnek stretches the plain of Burajrig, connected on the south 
with the defiles Hrejm al-‘Asira and Harm al-Bedarijje, from which the 
pass Nakb al-Merwa leads across the ridge of al-Me‘tedan to the springs 
of ‘Emtid and Umm ‘Amel and farther on to Zhe’. 

South of the upper part of the valley of ad-Dama rise: the hills 
of Abu Snan enclosing the plain of ar-Rahaba on the south; Zlt‘ al- 
Humr; al-Fgejme; as-Sane® with the cones of Narar and Nurejjer; still 
farther on: al-HaSim; az-Zuma’, and Abu Tine, separated from Mount 
Rajdan by the setb of al- Handaki; and to the south of as-Sane*, Mwéreb, 
al-Wutejdat, Shaba’ Gamra, al- Haza, Shejb al-Bim, and al- Gebalas 

On the seashore near Wadi as-Surr is the shrine of the Sheikh 
(aS-Sejh) ‘Abdallah, and to the east of it the spring of az-Zahltta, 
while still farther eastward are the oases of an-Ngér and an-Negel. 
South of the wddi, on the shore itself, is located the settlement of al- 
Mwéleh beside the ruins of Lehjane. 

Farther to the southeast are clustered the huts of the village of 
Zahakan on the bay of the same name, and about five kilometers still 
farther south is the large settlement of Zbe’ 49 with fine palm gardens. 
Beyond this village is the shrine Kabr at-Twasi, and near it the well 
Bir as-Sultani. 

The island of an-Na‘m4n lies to the south of Zbe’ and almost west 
of Wadi ad-Dama, which forms the old frontier between the territories of 
the Hwétat at-Tihama and the Beli, to whom the rest of the coast with 
the settlement of al-Wegh belongs.?! 

There are two old trade routes leading along the coast to the 
southeast; they branch off from each other north of the oasis of ‘Ajntna. 
The eastern one is called Darb ar-Rasifijje; and the western, Darb al- 
Mellah. The latter leads via the oases of Sarma, Terim, and an-Nér, 
makes a crooked detour around the rugged elevations of as-Snejwijje 
and al-Béza, under the name of Darb al-Falak, then passes the settle- 


40 Aj-Mukaddasi, Ahsan (De Goeje), p. 58, records Dabba also among the settlements 
belonging to the Kurh area. 

Jakat, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 3, pp. 463—464, as we have already seen (see above, 
p. 135, note 39), says that Dabba is a settlement near the coast in the Tihama, still belonging 
to Syria. Opposite, seventy miles from it, is situated another settlement known as Bada’, 
through which a stream flowed and which belonged to the Patriarch Jacob. From this settle- 
ment Jacob proceeded on a journey to Egypt to his son Joseph. — Bada’ is an oasis on the 
Darb ar-Rakak road leading from Egypt to al-Medina. About 130 kilometers to the northwest 
of it, on the shore, is situated our settlement of Zbe’, which I identify with the Dabba of 
al-Mukaddasi and Jaktat. Al-Mukaddasi does not transcribe names accurately, and those who 
copied from him did not investigate the correctness of his lists. He mentions two places of 
the same name in the Hegaz and in the depression of Sirhan. Both are pronounced al-“Awnid 
by him, and Jakut follows his example, although the two places are actually called al-‘Wejned. 
He probably jotted down Daba’ and later transcribed it as Dabba’, while actually the name 
of this settlement was Zaba’, or, as it is now pronounced, Zba’ or Zhe’. 

This supposition is confirmed by al-Makrizi (died 1142 A.D.), Mawd‘iz (Wiet), Vol. 1, 
pp. 57—58, who says that to the east of the Kolzum Sea are situated the region of al-Hawra’, 
Dabba, and Nebk, the region of Madjan, and the region of Ajla. Some manuscripts have 
Tana’ and others Zaba’. The transcription Dabba, however, is certainly erroneous. It is obtained 
from Jakat and is due to an inaccurate etymology. The name of this settlement does not 
come from dabb, as Jaktt supposes, but from zaba@’ or daba’. Codex Vindobonensis has Kataja’, 
which suggests an original phrase fa Zaba@’ (and Zaba), that is our Zhe’. 





41 Al-Makrizi, Mawd‘iz (Codex Vindobonensis), Vol. 1, fol. 36 v., writes that the island 
of an-Na‘man is situated not far from at-Tar and that it is inhabited by Arabs. — The 
landing place of at-Tar is located 260 kilometers to the northwest of the island of an-Na‘man. 

Al-Makrizi, Mawd‘iz (Wiet), Vol. 1, p. 62, also records that in the Kolzum Sea there 
are fifteen islands, of which four are inhabited, among them the island of an-Na‘man. 


MADIAN TO THE OASIS OF SARMA 137 


ments of Zahakan and Zbe’, approaches the sea itself, crosses Wadi 
al-Aznam by the ruins of the halting place of al-“-Wejned, and again turns 
away from the marshy seashore.?? 

The eastern road, Darb ar-Rasifijje, seems to be the older. It 
crosses Wadi al-Rarr west of the spring of the same name; reaches 
Wadi Terim by way of the setb of Ammu-d-Did; leads along the 
western foot of the al-Gimm mountain range; passes round the ridge 
of as-Sar through a plain extending to the east of the upper part of 
the as-Surr wddi; then, under the name of Darb ar-Rakak, it crosses 
the elevations of Ab-al-Bared and al-Ma‘in; follows the se%b of Saltiwa’ 
past the point where the latter joins ad-Dama; runs through the se%7b 
of al-Handaki to the water and ruins of Sarab; and continues along the 
western slope of Shaba’ Gamra to the oasis and ruins of Bada’. 

From the coast it is possible to ascend the eastern uplands through 
numerous defiles. The road most often taken is the Darb al-Wabri, which 
runs from al-Mwéleh through the as-Surr valley and the pass Nakb 
al-Hrejta to the uplands, whence it leads by way of the well of al- 
Gdejjed to Radir abu ‘Azejne, Temilt ar-Radhe, and farther on to Tebtk. 
The settlement of al-Mwéleh serves as a harbor for Tebtk. 


TO SARMA 


I did not cease making my notes until it had grown 
completely dark and Taman called me to determine our lat- 
itude (temperature: 31.1°C). ‘Afnan was sitting beside me, 
smoking and groaning. Like myself, he had been tormented 
with recurrent ague and had no appetite. After supper, 
he got up, kissed my head, and thanked me for the kindness 
which I had shown him in accepting his hospitality. He went 
through the same ceremony with the rest of my friends, ex- 
cepting only the black Mhammad; him he did not kiss. 

On Tuesday, June 14, 1910, we set out at 4.29 A.M. for 
the oasis of Sarma (temperature: 25° C) across a flat plain 
which was covered with sejdl thickets. At 5.44 we reached 
the edge of the oasis where we were to wait for ‘Afnan. 
Our camels grazed around the water, while we, with the 


#2 Al-Mukaddasi, Ahsan (De Goeje), pp. 26, 84, was acquainted with two towns called 
an-Nabk and al-‘Awnid in the Heg&az, which he compares with the two halting places of the 
same name on the road through the desert to Tejma. He describes al-‘Awnid as the populated 
harbor of the town of Kurh, famous for its honey, and includes it among the main settlements 
(ummahat) of the Hegaz. — The reading al-‘Awnid is not accurate. The halting place of the 
same name, situated in the desert to the north of Tejma, is not called al-“Awnid, but al- 
“Wejned. Kurh is an older name for the modern oasis of al-‘Ela’. 

Al-Makrizi, Mawd‘izg (Codex Vindobonensis, Vol. 1, fols. 10 v., 36 v., 184 v., 316 v.; 
Wier, Vol. 1, p. 311), asserts that the vocalization should be al-‘Uwajnid and not al-“Awnid. 

Al-Idrisi (1154 A. D.), Nuzha (Rome, 1592), III, 5, likewise records al-‘Uwajnid as an 
anchorage where mariners take in a supply of water, situated opposite the island of an- 
Na‘man at a distance of ten miles. The nearest anchorage to the south is called at-Tanafijje. 

Jaktt, op. cit., Vol.:3, p. 748, allots al-“-Uwajnid to Egypt and says that it lies near 
Madjan and al-Hawra’. — This location is not very exact, for Madjan is nearly 200 kilo- 
meters away and al-Hawra’ more than 250 kilometers. 


138 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


guide, made a sketch map of the surrounding district. About 
an hour later ‘Afnan rode up accompanied by six men and 
asked us to proceed farther eastward. After riding for ten 
minutes through a dense palm forest, we arrived at a large 
vegetable garden and halted in front of a palm-leaf hut. As 
there was no pasturage in the vicinity, we tied up our camels. 
At ‘Afnan’s request the farmers brought the animals a lapful 
of green dates, but our camels, which were not accustomed 
to this food, did not touch it, while ‘Afnan’s camels consumed 
the dates with great relish. 


CHAPTER VI 
THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK BY WAY OF AL-RARR 


SARMA TO THE CREST OF THE AL-GELES RANGE 


Not wishing to let our starved and weakened camels 
suffer unnecessary hunger any longer, I asked ‘Afnan to 
allow us to depart and to give me the guide he had promised. 
The latter asked me to pay him twenty English pounds in 
advance and declared that he would go with me no farther 
than the first camp of the Beni ‘Atijje, as at Tebtak and in 
its vicinity there dwelt families hostile to him. ‘Afnan called 
upon his people, one after another, to accompany me, but 
they all refused. In the midst of our difficulties there 
arrived at the oasis a Bedouin about twenty years old, who 
was seeking work and profit. Scarcely had he heard of our 
quandary than he seized the edge of my cloak and begged 
me to take him, saying that as a shepherd he knew the 
whole region of the Hwétat at-Tihama from al-Bed‘ in the 
north to Wadi ad-Dama in the south, that he was also 
acquainted with the shepherds of the Beni ‘Atijje and could 
therefore obtain one of them as a new guide for me. Having 
come to an agreement with him, I gave ‘Afnan the presents 
intended for him and his servants, and at 8.04 A. M. we left 
the oasis. 

Our road led through dense palm thickets, across small, 
marshy, shallow streams. The oasis of Sarma is scarcely 
four hundred meters broad and is bordered on the north and 
south by low, steep, rocky slopes. Date palms thrive there 
admirably and their fruit ripens quite early in the year. Many 
dates had already attained a bright brown color, and ‘Afnan 
brought me a handful of the half ripe fruit.” 

At 8.45 we reached a large, dry hollow with a few palms, 
close to the spot, to the north, where the combined gullies 
of al-Mak‘ade and al-‘Efrija come to an end. Toward the east 

43 In the literature dealing with the pilgrims, the oasis of Sarma is called al-Kasab. 
Abu-l-Feda’, Muhtasar (Adler), Vol. 5, p. 334, made a pilgrimage with his master to Mecca 
in the year 1320 A. D., and he greeted the new moon of al-Muharram (Feb. 12) at the halting 
place of al-Kasab, about four days’ march from Ajla in the direction of Janba‘. 


139 


Bb 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


140 


{SOM OY} WOAf Liey-[e Jo Ao][VA oy} UL SW[eg—)G¢ ‘DI 





THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 141 


the hollow becomes tapering and is called Wudej. It is reached 
from the south by the se%b of Zehijje, which runs through 
the rocky hills of Umm HaSsim. After 9.15 the guide gave the 
name of al-Rarr to the valley through which we were pro- 
ceeding. On both left and right we saw numerous springs 
and groups of date and dtim palms (Fig. 57). From 9.55 to 
11.40 we rested in a marshy hollow filled with a growth of 
reeds, where our camels found pasturage. In places the rocky 
soil was so scorching hot that it was impossible to walk 
barefooted. Our rifle barrels were as hot as if they had been 
left in a fire. Towards noon a slight wind arose from the 
east and we were able to breathe more freely (temperature: 
38.2° C). At twelve o’clock we had on our left the copious 
spring of al-HraSe, which irrigates several gardens and forms 
a stream more than three hundred meters long. In the gardens 
there were crops of onions, melons, and tobacco. 

At 12.25 we saw the se%b of Umm as-Sarabit on the 
left and crossed the old Pilgrim Road of ar-Rasifijje leading 
southward to the hills of Kos al-Hnane, where spirits abide. 
Date palms were still growing in parts of the valley, so that 
the oasis of Sarma could be extended a full twenty-five 
kilometers to the east. 

At one o’clock the se%b of Ummu R&tim was on our 
left and Abu Takar on our right. At 1.40 on the northern 
edge of the valley we perceived the well Bir al-Rarr, near which 
some Arabs were watering some sheep and about ten camels. 
The Hwetat at-Tihama breed few camels, because the beasts 
do not thrive on the coast and in the moist oases. Instead 
of camels they keep cows on the coast and sheep and goats 
in the mountains. Eastward from the well Bir al-Rarr the 
valley through which we were riding is called Umm Karadi. 
It is covered with fine gravel, in which the rimt and sejdl 
grow only sparsely, and it is joined from the north by the 
seitb of ‘Anstrijje, near the beginning of which is situated 
a pile of old, ruined buildings, called al-Merw. The slopes of 
the valley are steep and barren of vegetation. From the rugged 
uplands project isolated peaks and obelisks. 

To the east, without any gradation, there rise precipitously 
from the uplands the huge granite mountains belonging to 
the chain that separates the coast from the eastern highland. 
In front of them towers Mount ad-Dubba, the curious shapes 
of which attracted our attention (Fig. 58). The northern 


A 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


og 


142 


{SOM OY} WOAT 


A MANE fe he 


quUNoW—8¢ ‘DIA 





THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 143 


peak resembles a tall man standing up and attired in a Roman 
toga; while on the right a young man appears to be leaning 
against him, and on the left there is a girl with dishevelled 
hair. The southern peak forms a group of six persons, all 
of whom are looking westward to the sea. South of this 
group yawns a narrow, deep gap, through which emerges 
the valley of al-Karadi. The camels grazed from 2.10 to 4.12 
P. M. while we drew a map of the distant surroundings from 
a high cone to which we had climbed with great difficulty 
(temperature: 39.8° C). 

Passing on between the granite mountains of ad-Dubba 
and Arejka we proceeded through a bare and dismal valley. 
On the right and left were high smooth walls, and between 
them a river bed about one hundred meters broad, which in 
places contained deep deposits of gravel, with no trace of 
vegetation. At 5.20 the guide drew my attention to the spring 
of Abu Swer on the left. This rises north of the entrance 
of the setb of Drejm which comes in from the south. At 
6.12 we reached the se%b of Turban, which, coming from 
Mount ad-Dubba, rises in a copious spring of the same name 
that waters an extensive grove of date palms. East of it we 
proceeded through another se%b covered in places with drifts 
of sand. 

At 6.55 we encamped (temperature: 37.2° C) beneath 
a high, isolated cone that stood in the midst of the valley. 
On its western and northern slopes were high drifts of sand 
in which we observed some bushes of luxuriant green arta, 
of which the camels are very fond. The inflammation in my 
right eye had disappeared, but the ague had not yet left me. 
The night was clear and comparatively cool. The granite giants 
rising to our right and left assumed bewitching shapes in the 
moonlight and seemed to stretch their huge limbs as if pre- 
paring for some weighty undertaking. From time to time 
slight but very agreeable sounds broke the clear calm of the 
silent night. I did not understand these sounds, although 
I listened intently. Mhammad said: “The moon is rousing 
these enchanted giants and trying to find out whether they 
are still alive and strong and is instructing them what they 
are to do. How good and sweet the moon is, O Musa, and 
how cruel and hot the sun!” 

On Wednesday, June 15, 1910, we started off at 4.54 A. M. 
(temperature: 31.6° C). On our right were a Se%b and the 


144 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


water of Umm Nahale on the slope of Mount Arejka, which 
is conspicuous because of its ocher color. At the southern foot 
of the mountain are the springs of Dkét and az-Zab‘ijje, 
which belong to the al-Kahala basin. At 5.30 we saw the 
Setb of al--Aguz on the left and to the southeast the high 
walls of the granite mountain range of an-Na‘ejza, through 
which lead the defiles of al--Arajjek and al-Bdejje. In front 
of these mountains to the east of us rose the black moun- 
tain of al-Ruraba, along the southeastern foot of which 
extends the setb of al-Mathane, which joins the Se%b of 
Ornub. At 6.15, entering an extensive hollow covered with 
a dense growth of sejdl, we observed under the trees a few 
wretched tents belonging to the Hwéetat. From 6.30 to 7.34 
we rested to the west of the se%b of al-Medaik, on the 
northern edge of the hollow near a deep gap which -contains 
the spring of az-Zrejb. Having unloaded our baggage, we 
led the camels to the water. After a while three women came 
up behind us driving three flocks of small goats, and behind 
them followed a young man with a flock of about ten sheep 
and two camels. I wished to hire him as a guide, but he could 
not leave his flock. Our previous guide was afraid that he 
might be seen by some of his enemies encamped on the uplands 
of Hesma, and he asked me therefore to let him return. 
According to ‘Afnan’s statements, we should find in the 
vicinity of the spring of az-Zrejb on the border of the Hwetat 
and the Beni ‘Atijje a camp of the latter, but both the women 
and the young man assured us that all the ‘Atawne had 
departed for the uplands of Hesma, where their flocks had 
abundant pasturage, while on the coast the flocks were perish- 
ing with hunger. 

At eight o’clock we rode round an ancient burial place. 
At 8.03 we observed on the left the se%b and spring of Kir, 
the source of which is high up on the steep slope of the granite 
mountains bearing the same name and is very difficult of access. 
Mount Kir is composed of a great quantity of granite ribs 
some of which project above its general level and from afar 
resemble black stalactites. At 9.40 we had the se%b of Umm 
HaSim on our left; at 9.50 the se%b of Abu Hamata and the 
spring of the same name were on our right. South of the latter 
seib begins the cleft of al-Meda‘ik, which joins the se%b of 
Ornub. Having passed the latter, we entered the narrow se%b 
of as-Sik, enclosed by high, rocky walls which seem to touch 


THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 145 


each other at the top. Here we vainly searched for pasturage 
for our camels. Only some isolated ratam and sih grew there 
and these plants were all dead. The walls enclosing this se%b 
are of black granite, which had absorbed the burning rays 
of the sun and was giving out an unbearable heat. As no 





Fic.59—The se%b of as-Sik. 


breath of air could penetrate the deep se%b, we felt as if we 
were passing through a fiery furnace. The road was very 
difficult, because the camels had to walk over piles of stones 
and sand which had drifted there. Our guide drew our attention 
to the fact that we were approaching even more difficult places 
and advised us to let our camels rest. We did so from 11.32 
to one o’clock (temperature: 35° C). Finding no pasturage 
the animals kneeled down and gazed sadly at us (Fig. 59). 
After 1.30 we reached the water of as-Sik, which fills a narrow 
fissure in the rock whence it does not flow out, as much of it 
evaporates. Behind the water rises a rocky wall, about fifteen 
meters high, which completely shuts off the se%b on the east. 
Only a narrow and scarcely distinguishable little path leads up- 
wards through a rocky cleft. Our camels were afraid to attempt 
this path. Leading my animal, which was urged on by Rif‘at, 


146 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


I endeavored to persuade it to enter the cleft. For a long 
time it refused and turned back, but at last it jumped on to 
the path and the rest of the camels followed, but only so 
long as they could see one another. As soon as the front 
camel disappeared around a bend the next animal stopped, 
and all the rest came to a halt behind it. We had to bring 
the leading camel back in order to persuade the others to 
continue the march. It was not only difficult but frequently 
even dangerous to turn round on the narrow and precipitous 
pathway. The baggage fell from the backs of two of the 
camels and slipped down on the tail of the third one, so that 
the beast knelt. The fallen baggage went rolling down the 
slope, and it was no-easy task to carry it up again and load 
it on the camel. Both men and animals found it almost 
impossible to breathe, and the sweat was pouring off.-us. 

At last we climbed on to a rocky wall and entered a narrow 
crevice known as az-Zjejke, through which we climbed comfort- 
ably after a few minutes. In two places the water had formed 
puddles, but they were full of leeches of various sizes, so that 
not even our camels could drink from them. Suddenly the 
crevice was barred by a steep wall over four hundred meters 
high, which prevented us from continuing our journey. Nowhere 
could we see a trace of any path. After afew minutes Mhammad 
discovered on the eastern slope, behind a clump of palms, 
a smooth strip leading steeply to a small spur. This was the 
path. The spur projected scarcely sixty meters above the 
crevice, but it took us more than an hour to mount it. The first 
third of the way consisted of high, steep, twisting steps. My 
camel jumped up to the first step, thence to the second; 
behind it came the camels of Rif‘at, Taman, and Isma‘in, 
and in a short time our mounts were all side by side on the 
spur, where we persuaded them to kneel down and tied up 
their feet. Not seeing the rest of my companions, I climbed 
downwards and saw two camels with baggage already standing 
on the steps, but the third was still in the cleft. Ordering 
Mhammad and Isma‘in to hold the two front camels, I hurried 
down into the ravine to persuade the stubborn animal to move 
forward. I led it away from the path until it could see the 
two camels higher up, then I drove it behind them and it 
actually jumped up to the first step. But at that moment 
a stone of no great size worked itself loose from the top of 
the slope, rolled down, and rebounded in front of the first 


THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 147 


camel carrying the baggage. At this the beast took fright, 
wheeled round and stampeded down to the crevice, dragging 
the two others with it. Isma‘tin’s camel broke its tether and 
likewise fled down from the spur. The frightened animals 
did not come to a halt in the ravine but fled back to the rocky 
wall on which we had climbed so laboriously through the gap, 
and did not stop until they reached the very edge of the 
precipice. My European companions, Rif‘at and Taman, held 
three camels fastened on the spur, while the natives uttered 
lamentations and curses, exclaiming that they would not move 
a finger. Paying no heed to them, I ran out on to the spur, 
unfastened my camel, and brought it down into the crevice 
again. The guide followed me. Having overtaken the fugitive 
animals, we chased them back to the path, where we let them 
rest for a few minutes. In the meanwhile, Tuman and Rif<at, 
having first of all tied up the remaining two camels also by 
their right forefeet, had collected the scattered baggage and 
carried it up to the spur. The natives, who were now ashamed, 
gave aid, so that all our baggage was carried up before long. 
At last I persuaded my camel to jump up to the steps again. 
The second one jumped up behind it and followed me as far 
as the spur. When it had been safely secured there, I returned 
to the ravine with my camel, to lead up the second and third 
animals. As I was starting back for the fourth one, my animal 
began to offer resistance. Jumping out on all fours it lost 
its balance, rolled over, and began to slip down the rocky 
slope, dragging me with it. Leaping and sliding, we both 
reached the crevice. The animal was lacerated, my hands and 
feet were bleeding, and I felt a severe pain in the upper part 
of my chest, for while falling I had knocked myself against 
a sharp stone. But I did not lose the camel and finally 
succeeded in bringing the last animal up to the spur. 


TO AN-NA‘EMI 


Having secured the luggage, we rode on and at four 
o’clock reached the summit. We had now completed the worst 
part of the journey. From four to 4.48 men and animals 
rested (temperature: 36.5° C). Then, having refreshed our- 
selves with strong coffee, we set out again. Toward the west 
we saw the high, black walls of the as-Sik range; to the east 
were the broken rocks of Ornub; to the southeast there yawned 


148 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


beneath us the unforgettable ravine of az-Zjejke; and before 
us extended a region of narrow sevwbdn and rocky knolls. 
At 5.30 we had reached the pools of the spring of an-Na‘emi 
in the setb of the same name. The water of an-Na‘emi is 
surrounded by steep rocky walls more than two hundred 
meters high. Beside the water we searched for a path that 
would lead to the south or to the east, but we could not find 
one. Proceeding downward through the se%b, we came to 
a standstill at the edge of a declivity more than twenty meters 
deep. Here we branched off into a gap leading eastward, but 
after half an hour we had to return again because steep 
rocks prevented us from going on. Serif then called out that 
we were being watched by two men on the hillside. They 
vanished, however, the moment they perceived that we had 
observed them. The sun had now set, and we did not know 
whether they were friends or enemies (temperature: 32.4° C). 

Having returned to the se%b of an-Na‘emi, we encamped 
in the middle of it, so that no stones could be rolled down 
upon us. Crawling upon my hands and knees I slipped out 
to the eastern slope to look round for any signs of a fire 
and to listen for voices from an encampment. Nothing could 
be seen from the slope, but about two hundred meters to the 
east there rose the black bulk of a knoll, to which I made my 
way. From it I saw, at some distance to the southeast of 
us, the glow of several fires, which I knew must belong to 
the camp of some clan of the Beni ‘Atijje. Were the two 
men, whom we had perceived, from this camp and had they 
returned there, or were they acting as scouts for robbers 
and watching the spring of an-Na‘emi to see whether they 
could water their animals and supply themselves with water 
there undisturbed? These questions I was unable to answer. 

I found the descent of the slope much more dangerous 
than the ascent, and when, in the morning, I observed the 
place where I had climbed, I could not understand how I had 
managed it. 

All night long we kept up a big fire and had our rifles 
loaded beside us, prepared to defend ourselves. None of us 
closed an eye, but the night was calm. 

On Thursday, June 16, 1910, at six o’clock we were drawing 
near to the water on a fresh search for a path leading to 
the east, when suddenly we saw two men mounted on camels 
galloping straight toward us. They waved their rifles and 


THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 149 


called upon us to surrender if we were enemies. They were 
shepherds tending the camels of the Beni ‘Atijje, and they 
had ridden up to ascertain whether the well of an-Na‘emi 
were safe or not. Having discovered that we were peaceful 
travelers, they greeted us and promised that they would 
lead us to the nearest camp as soon as they had let their 
camels drink. Jumping down from the saddle, they dug with 
their hands and sticks a pit about sixty centimeters deep 
in the sand of the river bed, and it soon filled with water. 
One man led up the camels; the other stepped into the pit, 
collected water in a wooden dish, and poured it into a large, 
deep copper plate, from which the camels drank. While doing 
this they sang in a monotone. Meantime two other shepherds 
had driven up two flocks, and I beckoned to my companions 
to help them dig a new pit and to water the flocks, so that 
we might depart as soon as possible. 

Accompanied by the elder of the shepherds and Taman, 
I climbed a knoll not far off and drew a sketch map of the 
surrounding district. 


Before us, to the east, extended a vast plain covered with hills, cones, 
horns, mutilated pyramids, and obelisks, just as we had viewed it from 
Mount as-Sera’ (see above, pp. 41, 43, 47—49). This was the upland of 
Hesma’. Northeast of us appeared the flat elevation of al-Rurtr, from which 
the se‘tb of al-Hadad extends eastward to the lowland of al-Mamlah, north- 
east of Tebtk. To the north of al-Rurtr is the white plain of ‘Elw ar-Rwa’, 
on the eastern edge of which is situated the cone of Ammu Zumejrine, 
while east of it, on the left-hand side of the se‘tb of al-Hadad, are the 
two knolls of al-Hwij, and farther to the northeast the al-Mzannad group 
with the Se%b of the same name, which joins al-Hadad east of the broad 
mutilated pyramid of ar-Rakeb and the peaks of Umm ‘Adame. Farther 
to the east, under the hill of Umm Geba’, al-Hadad is joined by the 
Seib of Ammu Rha’, which rises at the foot of Dafdaf between Ammu Darag 
and al-Balas. The se%b of az-Zamm runs out from the pass Nakb 
al-Makla. This Se%b begins near Sagara Mat‘ama, under the name of 
al-Hwejme, and forms the northern border of the cluster of cones known 
as al-Ahawat and Ammu Rzim. From the right it receives Ammu Stan, 
formed by the arms of Rakak, ar-Rkejb, and al-Mhawa, which collect 
the rain water from the eastern slopes of the mountains of ar-Raha, 
al-Mu‘affara, and al-Hejmri and twine around the rocks of Bejdwat and 
Abu ‘“Alejkat. Lower down az-Zamm is joined on the right by the Se‘ibdn 
of ‘Arejka and Umm Latje, which wind between the rocks of an-Ndérat, 
“Arejka, Abu Zejjer, al-Bared, and Abu Rzejlat; while it is joined on the 
left by the sevbdn of al-Mirgihem and al-Mharrak. Al-Mirgihem proceeds 
from the mountains of ar-Rass, Jabb, and Far‘tn; on the right it receives 
al-Heseb (which rises. near the pass Nakb al-Hegijje) and al-Hwejman 
(which begins in the mountains of al-Lowz, al-Makla, and at-Tléte); it 


150 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


is divided from al-Hwejme by the hills of Morr and Abu Darag. Near 
the latter al-Mirgihem is joined on the left by the se%b of al-Mahas, 
which begins on the eastern slope of the ad-Darabig elevation near the 
mountains of Abu Hirka. On the western edge of the depression of 
al-Mehteteb, the se%b of al-Mharrak, which extends from the hills of 
al-Amrar along the low table-shaped hillocks of al-Hawsal, terminates 
in the Se%b of az-Zamm. To the east of al-Amrar, the eastern part of the 
al-Hazza plain is entered by the se‘iban of al-Bezwa and al-Awzam, which 
rise west of the railway station of al-Hazm in the hills of at-Taff and 
Trar al-Awzam. 

On the right al-Hadad is joined by the se%b of ad-Drale, which 
begins east of the mountains of Ornub among the rocks of Abu Ksejme, 
al-Mhawwar, HaSm Nkejb, al-Kwara, al-Minh, Abu HaSaba, Abu Sdad, 
and as-Sikik; farther on it is joined by the se%b of Umm Nekadat, which 
separates the hills of al-Mhejmi and al-Kwejsi from Umm ‘Arejkib, Abu 
Tbejk, MSejjis al-Hamis, Muhassar al-Hazem and al-Mhejbel; and finally 
it is joined by the se%b of aS-Ska‘a. 

On our return we found that our companions had been 
approached by about ten men who eyed us in no very friendly 
manner. They suspected that we were disguised envoys of 
the Turkish Government and that it was our purpose to 
ascertain the number of their flocks in order that higher 
taxes might be imposed upon them. Not yet having obtained 
a guide from their tribe, we were without a protector among 
them. Then one of them said: “Let us get rid of these strangers 
and divide what they have.” When I heard this, I sprang 
toward him, seized him by the shoulder and called upon him 
to repeat his words. He was taken aback and said nothing; 
after a while he went away. I then asked the others to 
conduct us to the nearest camp and announced that I was 
placing myself under the protection of the chief of this camp, 
before whose countenance I would present myself. In this way 
I made clear that I recognized this chief, hitherto unknown 
to me, as being so powerful that he could protect me from 
his own people. I had accordingly shown him honor and he 
would have forfeited his honor if he had not actually shown, 
or at least attempted to show, that he was as powerful as 
I had conjectured him to be. It was certain that some of the 
men present would report our conversation and that it would 
therefore be heard of by the chief to whom I wished to be 
taken. All who could leave the flocks joined us and guided 
us to the camp. They were inquisitive as to what would 
happen to us. 


THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 151 


AN-NA‘EMI TO NAKA‘ KEMAJEM 


At 8.20 we left an-Na‘emi (temperature: 30.1° C) and 
proceeded in a southerly direction on a path which led through 
a deep gap to the uplands. We had not been able to find 
this path, because hitherto no flock had been watered at an- 
Na‘emi. The sand of the river bed had been worn perfectly 
smooth by the last trickling water, and the entrance to the 
path leading from the river bed to the gap was hidden by a 
high boulder. Between the boulder and the rocky wall beside 
it there remained a space only about one and five-tenths 
meters broad, which a short distance farther on was shut 
off by another boulder on the left, so that from the river 
bed it seemed as if there were no outlet to the winding path. 
Entering the upland, we found ourselves in the extensive 
hollow of Bath as-Sikara, running from north to south. On 
the west this hollow is shut in by the al-Rurtr mountain 
range; on the north by a spur of the same range known as 
HasSm Nkejb and by the rocks of al-Kwara, al-Minh, and Abu 
HaSaba; and on the south by the granite rocks of Abu Ksejme 
and al-Mhawwar. Our new guides would not answer a single 
question. Toward ten o’clock we perceived to the east the 
first cones, pyramids, knolls, horns, and other shapes, which 
are so characteristic of the upland of Hesma. The se%b broad- 
ened out, the separate elevations became flatter, the vege- 
tation more abundant. The various hollows were thickly over- 
grown with ratam among which tents appeared at intervals. 
It was not an enclosed camp; instead, the tents were scat- 
tered over an area of several square kilometers. 

At 10.40 A. M. we halted in front of the chief’s tent 
(temperature: 34.2°C). Upheld by a single middle pole, it was 
shabby and full of holes. An old man came out, greeted us, and 
assigned a place to us between three ratam bushes. There 
we deposited our baggage. The camels immediately began to 
graze near by. After a while we were greeted by a youth 
of about twenty, who welcomed us on behalf of his father, 
the chief, who was absent on a raid. The youth brought a 
tent cloth, the old man a few poles and ropes, and with 
the help of my native companions they set up a temporary 
tent above our baggage. At my request Serif boiled some 
coffee and served it to all who were present. The youth 
went off with his cousin to the spring of Djejb, where his 


152 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


goats were to be watered, in order to bring us back a kid. 

Our tent soon was full of people. The old man, the brother 
of the youth’s mother, cautiously enquired where we were 
going, why we had entered their territory, and what we in- 
tended to do afterwards. I replied that we were going direct 
to Tebtk, that we would visit Harb eben ‘Atijje, the head 
chief of all the Beni ‘Atijje, and that we would return under 
his protection to the upland of Hesma. With a sneer the old 
man remarked that the Beni ‘Atijje had no head chief. 

“Hvery chief is his own head chief, and without his per- 
mission no stranger may enter his territory, unless he is ac- 
companied by Harb eben ‘Atijje himself.” 

“What thou hast said is true. Every chief of the Beni 
‘Atijje is independent, none is ruled by Harb, but each of 
them would consider carefully before rebelling against him.” 

Isma‘in asked the old man whether he could not provide 
us with a guide to Tebtk. The old man described the dangers 
threatening the guide on the way there and back and said that 
we should have to be accompanied by at least ten armed men. 

I said: “If Allah allows us to be attacked by a strong 
band of enemies, your ten armed men will run away or sur- 
render just like a single guide. Therefore I will go from here 
to Tebtk either with one guide or with none.” 

The old man beckoned to Isma‘in and went out with him 
from the tent into the bushes. After a long time, when the 
youth had already returned with the kid, Isma‘in came up 
to me and announced that our host, the chief’s son, with his 
cousin would accompany us to Tebtk for a fee of ten English 
pounds. This amount I could not pay, and I declared that even 
ten megidijjat ($9.00) would be a great deal for this journey. 
Isma‘in pointed out the dangers by which we were threatened, 
as hitherto we had no protector among the Beni ‘Atijje, who 
were accustomed to cheat and rob the pilgrims and traders 
who passed through their territory. He therefore persuaded 
me to summon the youth and the old man and to discuss 
the matter with them. Sitting down about a hundred paces 
from the tent, we negotiated for a long time and finally 
agreed that the youth should accompany us for fifteen me- 
gjidijjat ($13.50), but only to within sight of Tebaik; as soon 
as Tebtuk came into view, he was to return. He was afraid that 
on his way back he might be attacked and robbed on the road 
through the bare plain between Tebtk and the western moun- 


THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 153 


tains. The greedy old man demanded two megidijjat ($1.80) 
for the kid and one megidijje (90 cents) for the fuel and the 
labor of preparing the meal. Yet we had scarcely tasted any of 
the kid’s flesh, for it was eaten up by the rest of those who 
were present, and we were given neither bread, rice, nor even 
milk. After the meal I went away with the youth and Taman 
to a cone not far off, in order that we might note down the 
position and direction of the various localities. Our camels were 
al ready prepared for departure, but the guide still lingered, 
his excuse being that his riding camel had not yet arrived. 
At last, losing patience, I jumped up into the saddle, my 
companions followed my example, and at 5.30 we rode out 
of the camp and did not trouble about a guide. As a parting 
word I told those present that, if he did not overtake us be- 
fore sunset, we would announce everywhere how faithfully 
the son of the chief of the Beni ‘Atijje had kept his word. 
That proved effective. Scarcely twenty minutes had elapsed 
before the young guide galloped up to us. 

We proceeded in a southeasterly direction through the 
rocky plain of Bath as-Sikara, from which numerous isolated 
rocks project. Where any quantity of mould had accumulated, 
various plants were growing, and the camels and goats grazed 
upon them. In the rays of the setting sun the region was 
filled with a riot of beautiful colors. The blackened surfaces 
of the sandstone, leveled down by wind and rain, elistened 
as 1f molten iron had been poured over them. The rich green 
stood out sharply against the ruddy background. The walls 
and slopes which were turned towards the sun glowed blood- 
red and their angles seemed to be lined with purple. Fire 
blazed from each edge. The northern and southern slopes 
were as if painted a dark blue. In the deep gaps between the 
various knolls and cones there were already displayed dense, 
violet-colored veils of mist, above which a golden-yellow fir- 
mament was arched. 

The road was good, being devoid of stones or débris. At 
eight o’clock we came upon a clear, white, bare, dry, clay 
surface. It was the dried-up rain pond Naka‘ Kemajem, the 
eastern extremity of which we reached at 8.20. From it to 
the east extends a broad, sandy drift, the northern slope of 
which falls off about fifteen meters. To the north there rises 
a rock, against which the west wind beats and scatters the 
sand southward, so that between the rock and the drift there 


154 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


remains a passage about twenty meters broad, covered only 
with a thin sandy layer in which ‘arfeg grows. In this passage 
we encamped at 8.30 P. M. Our camels grazed on the ‘arfeg, 
while in a rocky hollow we lit a cheerful fire and prepared 
an abundant supper. We were all hungry, for we had eaten 
scarcely anything throughout the day. The fire could not be 
seen from either side. 


NAKA‘ KEMAJEM TO BERKA’-D-DIMEZ 


On Friday, June 17, 1910, refreshed by a peaceful sleep, 
we left our camping place at 4.42 A. M. (temperature: 19° C) 
and proceeded in a southeasterly direction. Our guide led us 
to an isolated reddened knoll, behind which is the water of 
al-Ber. South of Naka‘ Kemajem project the rocks of Kal‘at 
az-Za‘ejter, Abu Zumméarin, al-Mlosoma, and Gimmed; and to 
the north are Abu HaSaba, Abu Sdad, as- Sikik, and Mhejmi. 
During the ride I asked the guide for news, and there was 
one thing I heard which distressed me very much. I had 
intended that from al-Mu‘azzam we should visit the oasis of 
Tejma, explore the region east of the railway, and meet the 
Weld ‘Ali and Weld Sliman, whose acquaintance I had 
made in the spring of 1909. But from the guide I learned 
that both the Weld ‘Ali and the Weld Sliman had fled away 
from the regions situated east of the railway and that the 
Turkish gendarmes had been driven from the oasis of Tejma. 

Zamel eben Subhan, guardian of Prince Sa‘ad eben Rasid, 
who was about ten years old, had undertaken a great mili- 
tary expedition against the above-mentioned tribes and the 
oasis of Tejma. The Weld ‘Ali were encamped by Medajen 
Saleh. On June 6 or 7 their shepherds announced the arrival 
of Eben RaSid. The Weld ‘Ali sent the women with the baggage 
into the fortress, drove the flocks into the western defiles, 
and occupied the heights which rise on the western side of the 
fortress. The army of Eben Rasid encamped to the northeast 
of Medajen Saleh, surrounded the Turkish fortress, and the 
troops watered their camels and horses from the wells be- 
longing to the Turkish soldiers. The Turkish garrison, shut 
up as they were in the fortress, could in no way hinder them. 
Wishing to entice the Weld ‘Ali from their advantageous 
position, Eben Subhan ordered the tents to be struck and 
began to retreat. He left only a small detachment by the 


THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 155 


wells, which was attacked and pursued by the Weld ‘Ali. But 
the pursuers were surrounded and defeated, losing eighty-six 
rifles and seventy riding camels. Eben Subhan proceeded to 
the oasis of Tejma, drove away the Turkish garrison, had 
the staunchest adherents of the Government beheaded, and 
set up his own deputy in the oasis. From Tejma Eben Subhan 
had intended to attack al-Gowf, but, learning that the Rwala 
had not yet left the depression of Sirhan, he turned to the 
southeast in order to subdue the Weld Sliman. No Arabs re- 
mained between the oasis of Tejma, Medajen Saleh, and al- 
Mu‘azzam. The Weld ‘Ali marched northwards, pressing on 
against their enemies the Beni ‘Atijje, who fled before them 
to Mount as-Sera’ or to the volcanic territory al-Harra or the 
uplands of Hesma. The father of our guide had gone on a 
marauding expedition against al-Ajde, a clan of the Weld 
“Ali, who were said to have encamped near the central part 
of the al-Ahzar valley. In the neighborhood of Tebtk there 
were no Arabs, we were told, because bands of marauders were 
continually passing that way and disturbing the flocks. 

This was sad news for us. The journey to Tejma east 
of the railway was out of the question, nor was it possible 
to send our exhausted and starving camels to recover in some 
camp in the vicinity of Tebak. We had intended to allow the 
camels ten to fourteen days’ rest with abundant pasture, and 
only then to start on the new journey. 

On our left hand we had the cones of al-Mahartka, az- 
Zebedijje, and the pyramid of Umm ‘Arejkib; on our right 
hand the huge pyramid of Kal‘at az-Za‘ejter. At 6.03 we 
reached the well of al-Bér and remained there until 6.28 
(temperature: 24.5° C). This well is situated at the north- 
western foot of the sandstone cone bearing the same name; 
it is two to three meters deep and contains only rain water. 
If there is no rain for two or three years, it dries up. On the 
surrounding sandstone walls we observed numerous carved 
images of camels, goats, ibexes, ostriches, and horses, but 
we found no inscriptions. A few men and women were water- 
ing long-haired goats, and from them I bought a goat, which 
Isma‘in immediately sacrificed in honor of the spirit that 
filled the well with water. 

The men asked our guide when his father would set out 
for the al-Kerak territory to fetch grain. It seems that in July 
every clan of the Beni ‘Atijje sends some men with a flock 


156 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


of camels to the regions of at-Tafile, al-Kerak, or Madaba, 
east of the Dead Sea, in order to sell the camels there and 
with the proceeds to purchase grain and particularly barley. 
Such an expedition for grain is known by the Beni ‘Atijje 
as hatar. The guide complained of the Government for levying 
tolls on every load of grain. 

Above the well some raham birds (Egyptian vultures) 
were wheeling, and the men shot at them. They would have 
liked to bring down at least one, in order to have the flesh 
for their comrade who had been bitten by a serpent. They 
suppose that there is no better remedy for the bite of a serpent 
than the flesh of these birds. The person bitten is allowed to 
eat only their flesh and must rub their fat into his wound. 

The well of al-Ber is hidden among countless isolated 
peaks, cones, obelisks, mutilated pyramids, and other forma- 
tions produced by the joint action of rain, wind, and sand. 
To the west rises the mutilated pyramid of al-Gimmed and 
to the southwest the peak of Ummu Rkejbe; south of Ummu 
Rkejbe is the hollow obelisk of Sa‘arat al-‘EfasS and farther 
on in the same direction the knoll of al-Melhem with the 
pyramid of al-Gemez to the east of it. Beyond are the rocks 
of Hejrab, Bhejran, al-‘Asi, AShab, and aS-Sa‘ara, and the 
mutilated cone of Belal to the north of the last-named. East 
of al-Ber projects the prism of Ab-al-Kutr, northwest of which 
is the obelisk of ‘Aker; and to the north of al-Bér rise the 
severed cone of al-Mahartka, the group of peaks known as 
az-Zebedijje, and Umm ‘Arejkib, behind which are seen the 
flattened knolls of the table-shaped rocks of Abu Tbejk and 
al-Mhejmi. 

At 7.20 we caught the first glimpse of the volcanic 
region Harrat ar-Rha’ to the southeast. A black rampart, as 
if heaped up by giants, rises to the east and fades from view 
far on the southern horizon. This rampart forms the southern 
frontier of the uplands of Hesma, 

We rode along the broad, rocky elevations, upon which 
are situated isolated remains of strata that have been carried 
away. These rocks, the last memorials of bygone mountains, 
display curious shapes, according to the manner in which 
the different strata have resisted erosion. Almost directly in 
front of us rose the crag of al-‘Uwéker, composed of three 
circular rocks of decreasing size set one upon the other. The 
heat increased, the air did not stir, and the sun was surrounded 


THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 157 


with a yellow disk. Between Abu Tbejk and Berka ‘Id the 
rocky plain is covered with coarse gravel, débris, and boulders, 
between which the camels could advance only with very great 
caution (Fig. 60). 

Isma‘in and Mhammad wished to leave me at Tebak and 
were already looking forward with pleasure to the reward 
which they would receive for services rendered. The nearer 
we approached to Tebtk, the more obliging and dutiful did 
they become, and Isma‘in even composed a poem in which 
he celebrated our journey and extolled my gratitude and 
lavishness. But his poem did not meet with the approval of 
Mhammad, who corrected various verses, replaced several 
words by more beautiful ones, and reproached Isma‘in with 
not knowing the poetical language and using expressions 
which no poet would employ. Isma‘in was annoyed at this 
and referred to the legend about the Beni Helal, from which 
he knew several poems by heart and in which the same words 
occurred. Mhammad laughed, because, as he was unable to 
read, he had never read the tales and poems about the Beni 
Helal. He said Isma‘in composed bad poems and that no Bedouin 
would express himself in such a way, though Isma‘in imitated 
the speech of the Bedouins. 

At nine o’clock, to the east we perceived the broad notch 
of al-Ftha (Fig. 61), which runs from west to east through 
the ridge of Umm Galad. The isolated rocks, so distinctively 
characteristic of Hesma, had vanished; and in their place 
appeared rugged elevations and plateaus between which there 
were neither gullies nor valleys but only level stretches of 
varying size, partly covered with sand, so that the water was 
lost in them. The plateaus are mostly flat, only here and 
there overlooked by dark, isolated knolls. 

At 9.55, on our right by the spur of Nedrat as-Sba‘, we 
found a winding path running through a growth of yellowish 
grass and luxuriant shrubs, amongst which we remained until 
12.13. The sweltering heat was unbearable, the air was filled 
with fine sand, and the sun could not be seen. At one o’clock 
to the east we saw the knoll of Halahel, to the north the dome 
of Ammu Fritz, and beyond it MSejS al-Hamis. Behind every 
shrub there glistened from west to east a sand drift, which 
fell away abruptly towards the east, showing that westerly 
winds prevail. At 2.50 we entered the broad notch of al-Ftiha 
bordered by high, steep walls (temperature: 35° C). At three 


158 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 





Fi1a. 60 





Fia. 61 
Fia.60—Ammu Fritz from the south (near Berka ‘Td). 


Fic. 61—The notch of al-Fiha from the west. 


THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 159 


o’clock we observed the tracks of about thirty riders on 
camels. These tracks were scarcely more than twenty-four 
hours old and were directed toward the east. We knew that 
a band of raiders was proceeding that way, but it was not 
certain whether they were friends or enemies, whether they 
were riding due east or had branched off and were encamping 
somewhere to the right or left of the road. 

Suddenly, from the southeast, a strong wind began to 
blow, raising and filling the air with sand and flinging it 
into our eyes. The sand was most dense in a layer up to 
a height of about two meters, above which it began to grow 
thinner. Finding it impossible to see where we were going, 
we covered our faces and did not attempt to guide the camels. 
Every ten minutes or so the wind wou!'d subside and the 
sand would sink down for two or three minutes, but even 
in these moments of peace it was impossible to see as far 
as four hundred meters. The grains of sand penetrated through 
our clothes and into our mouths, eyes, noses, ears, and skin, 
and caused us a curious nervous pain. After 3.30 the rocky 
gap grew wider and the onslaught of the sand became all 
the stronger. We sought a shelter in which to wait until the 
storm passed, but in vain. Not until after five o’clock did 
I perceive on our left, on the slope of Ammu Zrutk, a ravine, 
and with my weary camel I made my way towards it. The 
ravine led into a deep hollow where we descended at 5.18. 
Here in places was a growth of raza bushes, which our camels 
completely devoured after a few minutes and then vainly 
searched for more. The hollow was enclosed by walls about 
one hundred meters high, across which the sand was carried, 
so that only an insignificant amount of it fell on us. In a small 
cleft in the southeastern rocky wall we made a fire and 
prepared our supper. At eight o’clock we rode on. The storm 
still continued, but we had to proceed on our way if we 
wished to reach Tebak in time. We passed through a defile 
in the plateau of al-Medari& amid rugged and bare rocks 
until 10.18 P. M., when we encamped among the rocks Berka’- 
d-Dimez. 


BERKA’-D-DIMEZ TO TEBUK 


On Saturday, June 18, 1910, early in the morning I 
climbed with Mhammad to a neighboring rock to get a view 
of the surrounding district. To the northwest I saw the 


160 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


reddened rocks Berka’-d-Dimez, partly covered with sand; to 
the north of them were the yellow rocks of Ferdat al-Atras 
and in the angle formed by the two, on the right of the 
river bed of al-Hadad, the wells Kulban ad-Dimez; far to the 
north there were to be seen several black hills of al- “A sat, 
and to the southeast of them, a long ridge straggling to the 
southeast, the steep slope of the mountains of Birka Sarora, 
Ammu Rzejje, al-Rawanem, and az-Zufejjer.™ 

Between the slope of az-Zufejjer and the region of Hesma 
there extends an undulating plain which near al- “A SAt is known 
as al-‘Arajed,*” farther to the south as al-Hazza, to the north 
of the settlement of Tebtk as al-Mehteteb, and, to the south- 
east of this settlement, as al-Etéli. 

On our return we dismissed the guide. He had begged 
flour, salt, coffee, sugar, ammunition, etc. 

At 5.05 we proceeded eastward (temperature: 15. DG )s 
In front of us stretched a large plain, from which isolated 
heaps of rock projected here and there. Numerous drifts of 
sand extended from west to east, overgrown with high and 
massive raza bushes. Mhammad explained that before the 
railway was built it was impossible even to penetrate the raza 
thickets, but it could be seen that since then the woodcutters 
had been busy there. The wood of the raza is conveyed to 
Tebuak and from there sent by railway as fuel for the various 
garrisons guarding the railway. Also to the north and north- 
east of Tebtk there are extensive raza shrubberies, in which 
the inhabitants of Tebtk burn charcoal. 


44 According to Jaktt, Mu‘gam (Wistenfeld), Vol. 3, p. 475, Du Dafir is a mountain 
in Syria. He recalls a verse composed by the vice-governor and poet an-Na‘man ibn Basir, 
a contemporary of Caliph Moawiyah, in the camp of the Kajn tribe at al-Hafr in which 
mention is made of Du Dafir, Ra’is, and Maran. In Abu-l-Farag, Ardéni (Balak, 1285 A. H.), 
Vol. 14, pp. 124f., the verse runs differently. — 

Maran, about which Jakiat knew nothing, is probably a transcription from Ma‘an. 
Instead of al-Hafr I would read al-Gafr, and I would locate the camp of the Kajn tribe to 
the east of Ma‘an in the lowland of al-Gafar, where there is an abundance of water. 
I identify Du Dafir with our Zufejjer, and Ra’is with the well of ar-Rajes situated to the 
west of Zufajjer. 

Jakut, op. cit., Vol. 2, p. 745, calls Ra’is a well of the Beni Fezara — and at ar-RAajes, 
six kilometers to the south of Tebaik, there is an abundance of water. Whether this well 
ever belonged to the Fezara is doubtful, but it is possible that during the years of drought 
they encamped at ar-Rajes as guests and dug a well there. Even today we have wells named 
after clans whose pastures are situated hundreds of kilometers away. 


45 Mehmed Edib describes (Mendzil [Constantinople, 1232 A.H.], pp. 72—73) Ka‘ 
al- Busajt, which he also calls ‘Ara’id, Mehar, Ruhejbe, as well as Ka‘ as-Sarir. He asserts 
that it is situated thirteen hours from Dat al-Hagg in a sandy plain. At about the center 
of the plain there rises a high mountain called Saréra’. In the year of the Hegra 1121 
(1757—1758 A. D.) the pilgrims were attacked and robbed there. To the right of the halting 
place a mosque and a pulpit can be observed on the hill. Neither a stronghold nor a reservoir 
was built there, and therefore the military escort brings water from Dat al-Hagg. — 

The plain of al-“Arajed is enclosed to the east by Mount SarGéra’, the peak of which 
rises up like a pulpit and is therefore known as al-Mambar. It is probably identical with 
the pulpit to which Mehmed Edib refers. Nobody there at the present time knows of a mosque. 

Jakut, op. cit., Vol. 3, pp. 282 f., mentions Mount Saréra’ rising to the east of Tebtk. 


THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 161 


After six o’clock, having crossed the se%b of al-"Wejned, 
we perceived a dark strip in front of us: the palm gardens of 
Tebak. At 6.40 we rode through the broad se%b of al-Bakkar 
and to the south observed the garden of ar-Rajes, which be- 
longs to the chief, Harb eben ‘Atijje. Southeast of it appeared 
a small grove near which is situated the copious well of Ger- 
tama. Beyond the se%b of al-Mu‘ejsi, which we crossed at 7.10, 
the ground rises toward the east and forms a broad elevation 
about thirty meters high upon which the oasis of Tebtk is 
situated. To the south of it projects the isolated crag of al- 
Hsejb. North of the oasis could be seen the station building 
with a windmill which pumps water from the well at the rail- 
way station. At eight o’clock we reached the northern extrem- 
ity of the oasis where we induced our camels to kneel down 
by some etel trees. 


SOJOURN AT TEBUK 


My companions remained in the shadow of the trees 
while Isma‘in and I went to the station to look for Gwad, 
the clerk. Gwad had transported our supplies from the settle- 
ment of Ma‘an to the oasis of Tebtk where he was to deposit 
them in the house of Mr. Sarikakis, a trader who rented 
stores and inns at all the larger stations of the Pilgrim 
Road from Damascus to al-‘Ela’. We discovered Gwad in a 
spacious hut of unburnt brick, with a single apartment used 
by Mr. Sarikakis as an inn, a shop, a storehouse, and a dwelling. 
We returned with GwaAd to our friends, deposited the baggage 
under the etl trees where we pitched our tents, unsaddled 
the camels, and sent them with a hired shepherd to pasture. 
We then went off to the hut of Mr. Sarikakis in order to 
inspect our supplies and to provide ourselves with what was 
necessary. The baskets and bags containing our supplies lay 
in a narrow yard behind the hut. They had been gnawed by 
mice, and much of the food had gone mouldy. The ground 
and the air contained much moisture which penetrated partic- 
ularly into the dried vegetables and sugar. 

In the afternoon I went with Isma‘in to the mudir, or 
representative of the Turkish Government. He lived in the 
first story of a little, tumble-down fortress and was sitting 
on a tattered carpet, upon which I likewise sat down. The 
mudir was by no means pleased at my visit. He returned my 


162 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


greeting only with a nod of the head, my letters of recommen- 
dation he did not even want to look at, and he slowly went 
on copying out the Government orders word by word, taking 
no further notice of me. He offered me neither coffee nor 
cigarettes. After a while the little room was filled with settlers 





Fic. 62—Our encampment, Tebtk. 


from Tebtk, who all looked at me inquisitively. Neither the 
mudir nor the gendarmes had any great knowledge of Arabic. 
A young gendarme asked me where I came from, where 
I wanted to go, what my business was, what I thought of 
political affairs in the Hegaz, etc. As I did not answer some 
of the questions at all, and others only very curtly, he started 
a conversation with Isma‘tin, from whom he learnt a great 
deal — except that it was all invention. I told the mudir 
that after a few days I was leaving for Medajen Saleh and 
that I wanted him to let me have a reliable guide. The mudir 
wageged his head several times and groaned at the difficulties 
of his position. The young gendarme accompanied me to our 
encampment (Fig. 62), where he found out who Rif‘at and 
Taman were and why they were going with me, since there 
was nothing about them in my orders. From various hints 
I gathered that he was longing for gifts, both for himself 


THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 163 


and the mudir. I assured him that I would reward everyone 
who did me any favor, but only after it had been done and 
not before. He warned me not to encamp so far from the 
oasis, saying that it would be better if we were to pitch our 
tents in the garden near the fortress so that all could protect 
us. When I remarked that there were enough of us and that 
we had good firearms to repel any attack by robbers, should 
the gallant gendarmes not come to our assistance, he offered 
to remain with us and guard us. Knowing that he would 
only annoy us with his begging and that he would fleece us, 
I declined his offer with thanks, pointing out that the mudir 
would not be able to fulfil his onerous duties without him 
and that, far from wishing to cause the mudir any trouble, 
it was my desire rather to make things easier for him. The 
gendarme was not pleased at my attitude. He went away in 
vexation, remarking that he would at once send a report to 
Damascus that two disguised foreigners were traveling with 
me. After his departure we arranged the scientific material 
which we had collected. 

On Sunday, June 19, 1910, very early in the morning, 
assisted by Mhammad I drew a sketch map of the territory 
between the Pilgrim Road, the depression of Sirhan, and 
the desert of the Nefaid. At noon I was visited by ‘Abdarrah- 
man Effendi, the superintendent of the temporary quarantine 
station. He invited me to take up my quarters with him in 
the station, where he had prepared three rooms for me and 
my companions. I thanked him for his invitation and promised 
that we would perhaps make the move some day or other. 
Toward evening I paid Mhammad and Isma‘in their wages 
and added various gifts, such as cloaks and headcloths, and 
at midnight they departed by railway for Ma‘an. 

On Monday, June 20, 1910, Gwad brought to me an old 
man of the Beni ‘Atijje tribe, named Sbejh, who wished to 
accompany me. He had brought charcoal to Tebtk on his 
camel during the night and was to take away a supply of 
various wares to a peddler who happened to be sojourning 
among his clan. But the wares had not yet arrived from 
Damascus and therefore he did not wish to wait several days 
at Tebuk for nothing and would be glad of the opportunity 
of earning something extra. Wishing to ascertain the extent 
of his knowledge and his ability, I went with him to the 
top of a high sand drift to the west of the gardens of Tebtk 


164 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


and from his indications drew a sketch map of the surrounding 
district. Comparing his statements with the notes and the 
map which I had prepared previously, I found that he was 
well acquainted with the whole region from the se%b of 
al-Kena’ in the south to the se%b of az-Zejte in the north. 
I therefore hired him as a guide. 

Before noon Salem, the clerk and representative of the 
chief, Harb eben ‘Atijje, came to us. He greeted me very 
humbly, offered me his services, and assured me that he 
would rest neither by day or night until he had fulfilled my 
every desire. After a while he also began to ask who Rif‘at 
and Taman were, why they did not pray and did not speak 
either Arabic or Turkish. He explained to me that in recent 
years several foreigners had come to Tebutk, all of whom 
he had served willingly and faithfully, so that they had given 
him and his chief various precious things as_ keepsakes. 
I thanked him for his goodwill, overwhelmed him with pleasant 
words, and dismissed him with the assurance that I would 
satisfy everyone who satisfied me by aiding me materially 
to fulfil the task which Allah himself had imposed upon me. 

Soon after that there came to me a gendarme named 
Halil, an elderly Kurd, and warned me against Salem. He 
declared that in the whole of Tebtk and the distant sur- 
rounding area, where he had now been serving for fifteen 
years, there was no greater extortioner than Salem and that 
he fleeced not only the natives but also strangers. Thus 
recently, he said, two strangers had come to Tebtk and had 
wished to visit the ruins of Rwafa. Salem had promised that 
he would guide them there; he described the journey as being 
so distant and dangerous that he might lose his life on it, 
yet nevertheless he said that he would do all in his power 
to protect them from every danger, if they gave him sixty 
Turkish pounds ($270). The strangers actually gave him 
fifty-five pounds ($247). Of this sum he distributed twenty 
pounds ($90) between the mudir and the gendarmes and kept 
thirty-five ($ 157) for himself. Escorted by the gendarmes, 
he led the strangers toward Rwafa, but they actually visited 
only the small heaps of old ruins and tombs of R&im Sowhar 
situated about four hours south of Tebtk, and he returned 
with them on the same day. In the neighborhood of Ksejr 
at-Tamra the gendarmes said they had discovered the tracks 
of a hostile band, and they so frightened the strangers that 


THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 165 


they themselves asked that the journey be cut short and 
that they return to Tebtk. When the strangers later heard 
from their servant that they had been cheated, they wanted 
to set out on the journey afresh, but then nobody would 
accompany them. They asked to have their money returned 
to them but obtained nothing. 

Halil wished me to take him as a companion. He had 
a numerous family, and his income as a gendarme was not 
enough for food, let alone for clothing for his two wives and 
children. He admitted that he did not know the names of 
the localities, but on the other hand he was acquainted with 
the chiefs of the Beni ‘Atijje, as he had spent fifteen years 
in Tebtk and the neighborhood. He had been the commander 
of a Turkish garrison in the oasis of Tejma and had returned 
from there not long previously. What he had saved at Tejma 
had been taken from him by the Sammar of Eben Rasid, so 
that he and his family had arrived empty-handed. I liked 
him. I wanted to help him, and I knew that in return for 
such help I should win him over so that he would not cause 
me any difficulties on my journey. He was the best of all 
the gendarmes of Tebtak who had hitherto offered me their 
services, and accordingly I told him that he and nobody else 
should accompany me. But this caused him misgivings; he 
wished to have instructions from his superiors that he might 
come with me. He was surprised that no answer had yet 
arrived from Damascus to the telegraphic inquiry whether 
any gendarme was to accompany me or not. The telegraphic 
inquiry, he said, had been written by the young gendarme; 
it stated that I wished to proceed from Tebuk to Eben Rasid 
and to Eben Sa‘lan. I could not understand how a gendarme 
could send such an inquiry to Damascus, seeing that | had 
not said a word about my intentions of going to those two 
men. I had distinctly told the mudir that I wished to remain 
only in the region to the west of the railway between Tebtk 
and Medajen Saleh. 

Toward noon Gwad informed me that Salem would not 
allow Sbejh to accompany me, because the mudiv announced 
that I should obtain no guide and should not be allowed to 
leave Tebtk until an answer had arrived from Damascus. He 
had given the gendarmes instructions to watch me so that 
I should not leave without permission. Salem assured me that 
both he and the mudir were alarmed for my safety and that 


166 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


it was only from love of me and my parents that they would 
not allow me to proceed to certain death. The Beni ‘Atijje, 
he said, did not obey the Government, nor did the Hwétat at- 
Tihama, and their territories were frequented by gangs of 
robbers, so that we should assuredly perish if we were to leave 






AND ENVIRONS 


METERS 
100 200 300 400 500 600 700 809 


7 | 
eset TEBUK 


} 
} 
| 

















Fic. 683—Tebtk and environs. 


Tebtk without the necessary military escort. In addition to 
that, the mudiv must inform Damascus that I was accompanied 
by two other foreigners who knew neither Arabic nor Turkish 
and to whom there was no reference in my official docu- 
ments. I knew that the journey among the fanatical population 
of the Hegaz involved great danger, but I also knew that both 
the mudir and Salem were purposely exaggerating the danger 
in order to extort gold and other gifts. I sent a message by 
Gwad to both of them that I relied upon Allah and his pro- 
tection and that I would not yield until I had fully carried 
out my task; that if they would support me effectively, then 
I would reward their assistance with gold and other gifts; that 
Taman and Rif‘at were my servants, that I could take whom 


THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 167 


I wanted as my servants, and that neither the mudir nor Salem 
nor the Governor at Damascus could prohibit my doing so. 

In the afternoon, accompanied by ‘Abdarrahman Effendi, 
we proceeded with Taman on an excursion through Tebtk and 
its environs in order to draw a sketch map of this settlement. 





Fic. 64—Around the spring, Tebtk. 


TEBUK 


Tebak is situated on a vast rise, which is especially 
conspicuous from the south and west but which sinks grad- 
ually to the north and east down to the surrounding lowlands 
(Fig. 63). Somewhere in the center of this elevation there 
is a spring which is so abundant that the water penetrates 
the sand drifts and flows over the surrounding district. 
The water has a temperature of 26° C and is yellowish in 
color. Around the spring there are three cement reservoirs 
(Fig. 64), set up, not on the hard soil, but on the drifted 
sand. From the reservoirs, in which it attains a depth of 
one and a half to three meters, the water is conducted by arti- 
ficial canals into the surrounding gardens, where date palms, 
fig trees, pomegranates, and various vegetables thrive. Not 
long ago the whole area around the spring formed a single 
palm grove, but the central part of the grove was cut away 
in order that the west wind might have free access to the 
stronghold and settlement and disperse the malaria from which 
the inhabitants were suffering severely. To the west of the 


168 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


spring the chief Harb eben ‘Atijje had fenced off a part of 
the ground with a wall of unburnt brick and had established 
a new garden, in which he had planted date palms, pome- 
eranates, and a few fig trees, and his gardener cultivated 
vegetables there. But the artificial wall of this garden aroused 
the wrath of the wind, which deposited sand against it; the 
drift increased in size, surmounted the wall, and the sand 
was scattered into the garden. The gardens of Tebuk form 
the shape of a horseshoe open towards the northeast, and 
they enfold the stronghold and the settlement. The stronghold, 
which rises a few meters to the northeast of the spring, is 
a rectangular stone building of no great height, without side 
towers, and recalls the medieval structures on the Pilgrim 
Route. A narrow gate leads into a courtyard, around which 
dwelling places, storerooms, and stables flank the walls. An 
open staircase leads to the first floor, which is built along 
two sides of the wall. In the courtyard there is a well about 
four meters deep, with good water. From the stronghold 
a short road of no great width runs nearly due east between 
huts built of sun-dried brick and broken stone. Of these there 
are fewer than forty. By the northeastern extremity of the 
village, near a small mosque built by Italian masons, there is 
a well about six meters deep. Still farther to the northeast 
there are wells here and there, which become deeper and 
deeper the farther one goes; the well by the railway station, 
from which water is obtained for the engines, is twenty-four 
meters deep. By the eastern (Fig. 65) and northern extrem- 
ities of the gardens the sandy soil is sown with barley after 
abundant rains. In years when there is little rain the barley is 
not sown, and even when there has been ample rain the ground 
has to be carefully watered from the neighboring wells, as 
otherwise it would dry up. About two hundred paces to the 
east of the eastern extremity of the gardens some huts have 
been built for the soldiers, and to the northeast of them a 
large quarantine station has been established for the pilgrims. 
To the south of this station rise the two isolated crags of 
al-Hsejb where the stone is hewn for the buildings of Tebuk. 

About fifteen families, constituting the original in- 
habitants of Tebtk, are descended from the Hamajde 
tribe and are called al-Hmejdat. They have a chief from 
the family of the ‘Awad. The rest are immigrant rail- 
road workmen who have no gardens. The chief Harb eben 


THE OASIS OF SARMA TO TEBUK 169 


‘Atijje set up two huts and planted a garden in Tebuk. 

When we returned, we found our camels already in the 
encampment. They were hungry, for in the sev%b of ‘Arejkeén, 
below Tebtk to the southeast, there was very little vegetation, 
and we could not drive them elsewhere for fear of robbers. 





Fic. 65—The eastern extremity of the oasis of Teb0k from the north. 


Gwad drew my attention to their feet, which were in a bad 
state from walking on the sharp stones of the rocky Hegaz. 
Two of the camels had the skin of the soles of their forefeet 
already torn away in places. A sharp stone could have pene- 
trated them. On the advice of Gwad we bought naphtha, 
saltpeter, and sulphur, and rubbed their feet with this mixture. 
In the evening we determined our geographical latitude. 

On Tuesday, June 21, 1910, in the morning, we drew 
a Sketch map of the region through which we were to travel 
with our guide Sbejh. Before noon Salem, the representative 
of the chief Harb, came to us with the chief Da‘san al Zel’, 
of the Rawazin family of the Sbut clan, likewise belonging to 
the Beni ‘Atijje. The latter had arrived at Tebtk in the night 
with several camel riders for salt and clothing material. His 
attitude towards me was very friendly, but he warned me 


170 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


against traveling to the south, because, he said, many maraud- 
ing gangs, both large and small, were wandering about there. 
Seeing that I did not intend to abandon my plan, he offered 
to accompany me himself as far as his encampment near the 
spring of ar-Rawjan, and he said that there he would find 
me a reliable guide to the territory of the Hwétat and Beli. 
In the further course of the conversation I gathered that 
he would not allow me to pass through his territory without 
his permission, because several times he remarked that the 
Sultan ruled in Constantinople, but that he was the one who 
ruled on his own pastures and that Harb eben ‘Atijje and 
the mudir from Tebtk were still more insignificant in his 
eyes than the Sultan. To my question as to when I could 
start he replied that I should make all preparations for 
departure, that he would go with his people for salt to the 
salt marsh of al-Mamlah northeast of Tebtk, and that on the 
next day he would return and take me with him. About his 
pay he said nothing. When he was leaving, I told Gwad to 
go with him and ask him how much he would expect me to 
give. Gwad returned with the sad news that Da‘san demanded 
fifty Turkish pounds ($ 225) and had declared that if he did 
not get as much as he wanted he would not take me with 
him and would not allow me to pass through his territory. 
As his territory bordered on the northern edge of the harra 
(tract of country covered with lava), I could not reach the 
territory of the Hwétat and the Beli by any other way. 
It was accordingly necessary for me either to fulfil his 
desire and to go with him or else to cross the frontier 
of his territory before he returned to his camp. From 
Tebtk it would take us at the most two days to reach 
the spring of ar-Rawjan in the vicinity of which Da‘san’s 
clan was encamped and for this journey Da‘san demanded 
fifty Turkish pounds! In his camp I should have been com- 
pletely dependent upon him, and I feared that he would have 
demanded fresh money both for himself and for the new 
guide and would thus have rendered it impossible for me to 
continue my journey. The craving for gold and for profit 
was already aroused both in the mudir, the representative 
of the chief Harb eben ‘Atijje, and in Da‘san, and it was 
therefore necessary for me to get away as quickly as possible. 
I sent each of these three persons a trifling gift as a bait 
and prepared to shift my quarters to the quarantine. 


Ceb ASPs ry Vols 


TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL BY WAY OF RWAFA 


DEPARTURE FROM TEBUK 


On Wednesday, June 22, 1910, I had all our baggage 
deposited under the trees and gave orders for the tents to 
be struck and rolled up. ‘Abdarrahman Effendi sent two 
assistants who were to move our effects to the quarantine. 
The mudir and Salem were glad that I was remaining for a 
long time at Tebtak and that they would be able to go on 
fleecing me comfortably. While my companions were busy 
arranging our baggage, aided by the guide Sbejh I sketched 
all the roads with which he was familiar. 

At one o’clock the shepherd Mutallek drove up the 
camels upon which our baggage was to be transported to 
the quarantine. I then sent Gwad for the gendarme Halil, to 
whom I handed two telegrams, one to the Minister of the 
Interior at Constantinople and the other to the Commander 
of the Gendarmerie at Damascus, informing both of them that 
I was just leaving Tebtk for Medajen Saleh, accompanied by 
the gendarme Halil. Gwad read them to Halil and went with 
him to hand them in at the Telegraph Office. I instructed 
Halil to join us before two o’clock, as we were leaving at two. 
If he should be late or if he refused to accompany me, then 
let him tremble before his Commander at Damascus! The un- 
fortunate Halil was so astonished at these proceedings that 
he trembled from head to foot. After a while Gwad return- 
ed and announced that Halil had handed in the two telegrams 
and had gone to the mudir to ask for his advice. The mudir 
was asleep, just as everybody else was at Tebtk during the 
heat of noon. When Halil disturbed him from his slumbers 
and brought him such an unpleasant piece of news, the angry 
mudir told him to go to the devil. Halil departed, taking 
his arms and his saddle sack, and came to me. 

At two o’clock we left Tebtak. Except for two guards 
from the quarantine and one small boy, nobody took any 
notice of us. All the rest of the inhabitants of Tebtk were 


171 


172 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


asleep. We made our way towards the southwest, because 
Salem and Da‘san had recommended to me the road leading 
around the gardens of ar-Rajes to the se%b of al-Kena’ as the 
best, and Sbejh had sent a message by one of the guards, whom 
he knew at Tebtk, that we should spend the night either at 
ar-Rajes or at Gerttima. I had expected for a certainty that 
both the mudir and Salem would send gendarmes after us to 
hinder our journey, so we had to outwit them. At 2.52 there- 
fore, we turned off directly to the west into a rocky area where 
our tracks could not be discovered. Towards the south we 
saw the gardens of ar-Rajes, which belong to the chief Harb 
eben ‘Atijje, and to the south of them the well of Gerttima. 
Both ar-Rajes and Gerttiima are situated by the Se%b of “Arej- 
kén, which is connected with Zab‘an and Abu NSejfe; the latter 
is known in its upper part as Abu ‘Agejgat and terminates 
by the salt marsh of al-Mamlah. To the west of ar-Rajes 
extends the se%b of al-Mu‘ejsi, which runs from the southern 
Slope of the black rock of al-Rmejjem, winding along the 
western foot of the elevation of Tebtk and likewise coming 
to an end at al-Mamlah. 

We rode cautiously, continually watching for hiding places 
behind the dark sandstone rocks of Ammu ‘Wejkile, and at 
four o’clock we crossed the broad se%b of al-Bakkar. 


This se%b begins in the south at Mount Naf and extends among the 
hills of Wa‘al, Halawi, “Asejfir, al-“Ajrén, and “Aséra on the east, and 
among al-Hambara, ad-DwejmezZ,, Gedirt as-Sefi, al-Hsejra, Hlej al-Hmédi, 
Zhejlil, al-Mizwar, Hamra’-S-Swarbi, al-Mu‘ezz, al-Brejt, and Berka-s-Smej- 
han on the west. In the upper part it is called Dejjer, and in the elevation 
of al-Hambara it is known as Dellem; from the well Bir al-Kena’ it keeps 
the name al-Kena’ as far as the hills of Umm Hrejman, whence it is called 
al-Bakkar. On the west it is joined by the sevban of al-Bahit; Hulful; al- 
Wdej; al-Kejsim; al-Grejs, which extends between al-Mu‘ezz on the west 
and Umm Hangtr on the east; and finally by Umm Tibb. On the east 
there merge with al-Bakkar the sevbén Ammu Rzej; Ammu Nsejb—wind- 
ing between Trejf al-Bam, MSejs al-‘Abd and Klejb Mardtd; and, farther 
on: al-Hawij; Umm Gerid; al-‘Asftra; ar-Rkejk (or ar-Rkejjek); and 
al-Medra’, the last-named descending from the mountains of ‘ASéra and 
al-‘Ajrén. 

From 4.30 to 7.08 P. M. the camels grazed on the arta 
and raza in a small, deep hollow (temperature: 38° C). The 
gendarme Halil collected fuel, boiled coffee, and promised that 
he would help us in everything, if only I would declare before 
witnesses that he was not responsible either for me or my 
property and that I would protect him against the mudir in 


PEBUKELOSWADI AL-GIZEL 173 


Tebak and the Commander in Damascus. Serif laughed at the 
guide Sbejh, because he could not satisfy his hunger. According 
to what Serif said, he had received more than one and one-half 
rotol (three and one-half kilograms) of rice, and he was still 
complaining that his stomach was half-empty. After supper 





Fic. 66—A1l-Medarig. 


we proceeded through the uplands of al-Medarig (Fig. 66) 
and at 7.20 crossed numerous paths leading to the well of 
ad-Dimez. 

A violent, cold, west wind arose and drove the sand into our 
eyes. After nine o’clock we searched in the se%b of al--Wejned 
for a place with abundant pasture for the camels, but in vain. 
The setb and also the surrounding district were entirely 
parched. Sbejh declared that there had been no rains in these 
regions for years. At 9.50 we encamped behind a low, isolat- 
ed knoll. 


AL-“WEJNED TO AS-SEJJER 


On Thursday, June 23, 1910, we all complained of the 
cold. Having left the camping place at 4.26 A. M., we went 
on foot in the se%b of al-‘Wejned to warm ourselves. On the 


174 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


right we had the two violet-colored, tabular hills of al-Hukuk, 
between which projected a high peak. There were no signs 
of vegetation, everything being quite bare and parched. To 
the east of the sev?%b there rise the numerous low hills of 
Berka-s-Smejhan, half-covered with sand, and to the south 
extends the high, table ridge of Umm Hrejman. North of 
the latter rises the three-peaked mountain of Umm Hangur, 
in front of which is the high cone of al-Brejt. To the south 
of these mountains and to the west of the well of al-Kena’ 
extends the long ridge of at-Tmejjem, terminating in a steep 
slope. At 5.25 we saw in front of us the black sides of the 
table-shaped hill of al-Mu‘ezz (temperature at 5.00 A. M.: 
PAV ACH 

The configuration of the whole region is uniform: table- 
shaped hills with precipitous sides; deep, broad se%bdn; and 
extensive plains, upon which are situated low knolls, cones, 
and peaks. The se%bdn contain much sand in which the raza 
and ‘dder grow. Here and there isolated ratam bushes and 
talh trees are found. The guide explained that the talh trees 
are very useful. If the bark is cut, fragrant resin, called 
samar, gushes out. This resin in a hardened form is collected 
and sold at Zbe’ and al-Wegh for from one to one and a half 
megidijjat ($0.90 to $1.85) the rotol (2.56 kilograms), accord- 
ing to the demand. In 1909 the Egyptian traders at Zbe’ paid 
as much as one English pound for one rotol. Resin is also 
collected from the sej7dl, but this is not as fragrant and does 
not fetch as high a price. 

At 5.38 we saw the hills of Rdejhat al-Hamz and behind 
them the rocks of Hamra’-S-Swarbi. At six o’clock the guide 
pointed out to me a couple of dark cones between which (bén 
ha-s-samraweén, between both of these blackish cones) begins 
the setb of Umm Tibb, which joins al-Kena’. 

Our camel driver Mutallek explained that there were no 
greater rogues than the fellow tribesmen of our guide Sbejh. 
They have no regard either for hospitality, protection, coun- 
tenance (wagh), or shelter. Sbejh grew very angry and threat- 
ened to strike Mutallek and indeed to kill him if he spoke 
about the Beni ‘Atijje in such a manner. Mutallek hailed from 
the oasis of Tejma but had been living at Tebtk for several 
years. In the spring he went to Ma‘an to earn money. Re- 
turning from Ma‘an he met with the chiefs Hamed and Ahmed 
eben Der’, who had been driven out from the oasis of al- 


TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL 175 


Gowf. Going on foot from camp to camp, they had reached 
the camp of the Gmé‘anijjin clan, belonging to the Beni 
‘Atijje, near the railway station of al-Mdawwara. They gave 
a greeting, their greeting was returned, and yet they were 
surrounded by some shepherds and completely robbed. Their 
good clothes were taken from them and old ones thrown at 
them in return. They fled to the chief, Matlak eben Rbejje‘, 
asking him for his protection and the recovery of their stolen 
property. But Matlak declared that he did not know the cul- 
prits, that he must first search for them; and yet they were 
pointed out to him sitting in front of his tent. Sbejh declared 
that this was not true, that Mutallek was lying, and that if 
he thought that he had been badly treated he should go to 
Tejma, bring out his kinsmen thence, and let them punish 
the rapacious Beni ‘Atijje. The inhabitants of the oasis of 
Tejma had, in the last few years, been robbed several times 
both by the Beni ‘Atijje and by the Ajde and Fukara’, 
belonging to the Weld ‘Ali, and even by several clans of the 
Sammar. The gendarme Halil said that he had been at Tejma 
for three months. Many houses there had been ruined, many 
gardens laid waste, and many warriors had perished. When 
Zamel eben Subhan marched into Tejma, he had all the ad- 
herents of the Turkish Government, nine in all, beheaded in 
front of the gendarmes. 

At 7.06 we rode between the mountains of al-Mu‘ezz and 
Rdejhat al-Hamz. To the east rose the dome of Hangur, to 
the south Hamra’-S-Swarbi, with which elevation the huge 
mountain of al-Mizwar is connected. In these mountains there 
are many ibexes and beasts of prey, especially nimr (leopard) 
and fahad (a leopard-like cat, smaller than a nimr). In the 
sand we perceived the fresh tracks of a nimr and of a 
gazelle, which it had dragged into a talh thicket and devoured 
there. Only a few fragments of the legs remained. The nimr, 
it seems, is larger than the fahad and so strong that it can 
drag away a young camel; it therefore often attacks camels. 
Before the railway was built the antelopes are said to have 
come into the region of Hesma, but now they are afraid of 
the railway line and remain to the east. 

At 7.20 we had on our left the se%b of Zhejlil, which 
comes from the mountain of the same name, the peak of 
which projects far above the table-land. At 7.30 we at last 
found some fresh arta shrubs, a proof that we had already 


176 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


emerged from the region in which there had been no rain 
for four years. Our camels grazed until 9.08. Not far from 
us there was an ancient burial place. The graves had been 
built above the earth, each one consisting of large stones 
bordered by a circular wall of small stones (Fig. 67). At 9.16 
we left the Se%b of al-Haraze on the south and reached the 
black crags of Ammu Rtejmat, among which the se%b of al- 
‘Wejned is transformed into an impassable ravine. This se%b 
descends from the west from the 
northern extremity of the ridge of 
Berka ‘Id and, after joining the 
se%ib of al-Haraze, winds round the 
northern spur of the volcanic terri- 
tory, first in a northerly and later 
Fic.67—Ancient grave near in a northeasterly direction. On 
the Se%b of Zhejlil. the right it is joined by the seib- 
an of Dbejsuwat and al-Hsejra 
—the latter being formed by the branches of as-Sefi and 
Salil — and also by al-Krejwet. Branching off to the west, we 
slowly penetrated the black rocks on the north side of the 
Seib. In front of us we had the black cone of al-‘Abd, from 
which the Se%b of Selim descends; on the left beneath us was 
the ravine of al-"‘Wejned, the bed of which is covered with 
pink sand, from which the green ratam shrubs stand out 
conspicuously. At 9.55 we crossed Wdej ‘Amri. In the rocks 
on the right and left sides of it a ghost, rola, is said to have 
its abode. The ghost resembles a large eagle but sighs and 
weeps like a human being. 

At ten o’clock we mounted to the elevation, and from 
10.08 to 11.55 we rested in a shallow hollow, where we found 
pasturage for our camels (temperature: 34° C). At the eastern 
border of the hollow there was a rain well, msas, but without 
water. On the boulders could be seen numerous carvings of 
gazelles, camels, and horses, cut out to no great depth; but 
there were no inscriptions. To the northwest, behind the 
knolls of Ammu Fruz, appeared the hill of al-Hamis and east 
of it the ridge of a&-Ska‘a, with al- Mhejbel and az-Zor still 
farther north. On the south, to our left, extended a black 
plain with the dark gaps which marked the Se‘ibdn of al-Krej wet, 
al-Hséra, and as-Sefi. 

At 1.80 we crossed the se%?b of Abu Sor, which descends 
from Nedrat as-Sba° and joins al-"-Wejned. At two o’clock we 











TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL nb 


entered the splendid rocky se%b of Umm Butum with high 
steep sides, through which we again reached al-“‘Wejned 
(Fig. 68). The latter se%b is scarcely ten meters broad; its 
bed is covered with sand to a considerable depth and is 
bordered by precipitous rocks. On the rocks are carved various 





Fic. 68—The setb of al--Wejned. 


tribal signs, numerous primitive drawings, and also a few brief 
inscriptions. We remained among the rocks from 2.30 to 2.46. 
Not far away there was a rain well, but it had dried up. 

From 3.05 to 3.40 we halted by the rain well of ar-Radhe, 
which contained water, so that we were able to fill one water 
bag. Thence we continued our journey across smooth rocks, 
which rose like a staircase and were so steep that we had 
to lead our camels. At 4.15 we climbed an elevation and saw 
extended before us the curious rock formations so typical of 
the uplands of Hesma (temperature: 35° C). 

At 4.45 we dismounted by the cluster of rocks called 
Dbejsuwat, on the eastern spur of which there is a sand 
drift more than two meters deep and covered with arta and 
raza, so that our camels were able to eat their fill. I ordered 


173 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Mutallek to drive the animals from our encampment to a place 
where the arta grew most abundantly and to guard them 
carefully, because the proximity of water is always dangerous. 
Though shaken by an ague I had to climb with Taman and 
the guide to a knoll and from there draw a sketch map of 
the region. We were just setting about our work when we 
saw the keeper of our camels driving them back to the fire. 
I shouted and beckoned to him, Sbejh and Titman did the 
same, but Mutallek did not want to see and, when he saw, 
did not want to understand. There was nothing for it but 
for me to climb down and drive Mutallek and the camels 
with him back to the pasturage. 

Having eaten our supper, we set out again at 7.10 (temper- 
ature: 30.8° C). The smoke from our fire was visible a long 
way off and might have attracted the attention of robbers, 
who would attack us in the night. Accordingly we had to 
seek another place in which to camp. Moreover, to the north 
of the hills of al-Mkejmen we perceived some herds of camels, 
and Sbejh declared that they belonged to the kindred of 
Rawazin who formed part of the Sbut clan, the chief of which 
was Da‘san eben Rbejje’. He had threatened that he would 
not allow me to cross his territory without his permission, 
and therefore I wanted to get out of his territory as quickly 
as possible, or at least to obtain some Arab to protect us. 
Sbejh praised Da‘san and declared that among all the Beni 
“Atijje there was nobody so noble, rich, and bountiful as he. 
He owned two large herds of camels and was called the father 
of the poor, abu-z-zu‘afa’. 

We rode through the sandy plain of Ab-al-Ketin, covered 
with an abundant growth of grass and perennials, and at 8.45 
halted not far from the se%b of as-Sejjer. To the southwest 
of us some shepherds with large herds of camels were spend- 
ing the night. As the night was quite clear and the region 
safe, our camels could graze freely, and not until after midnight 
did we drive them up to our encampment and make them kneel 
down. Sbejh’s camel still went on grazing. 


AS-SEJJER TO HARM AL-FAHAM 


On Friday, June 24, 1910, immediately after midnight, 
I sent the guide Sbejh to the shepherds to find out whether 
Da‘san had already returned or not. At the same time he 


TRB UKLOsWADIOCAL-GIZEL 179 


was to find for us a guide acquainted with the volcanic 
territory al-Harra as well as with the coast regions belong- 
ing to the Hwétat at-Tihama. If he did not find such a guide 
among the shepherds and Da‘san had not yet returned, then 
he was to go down to Da‘san’s camp. I waited a long time 
for Sbejh and finally at 4.55 A. M. we started without him 
(temperature: 19.5° C). ‘Arfeg and etmdn, together with 
some isolated arta and ratam, grew on the plain. Having 
crossed the se%b of Obejjez at-Tarik at 5.40, we rode round 
the hill of al-Mkejmen and ascended a rise from which we 
obtained a fine view: to the south and west. On the pale 
yellow plain are innumerable white, pink, and blood-red knolls, 
cones, peaks, and obelisks, and in front of them, nearer to 
us, could be seen about fifty black tents. On the western 
horizon there rose the huge battlements of the rugged mountain 
range of Razi, steeped in violet vapors; to the southwest we 
saw the rocky slopes of al-Hnejfse, composed of black and 
red strata, and between the two there towered up above the 
vapors the high, dark peak of Harb and the majestic Debbar, 
reaching to the clouds. 

From 6.55 to 7.20 we remained in the se%tb of Zwejbt 
as-Skur by the rocks of AShab, where we were overtaken 
by Sbejh. The chief Da‘san had not yet returned, but they 
were expecting him every moment. In the encampment Sbejh 
had found a man hailing from the Beli tribe, who was willing 
to act as our guide. Having arrived at an agreement with 
him, I asked him to bring up his camel and to proceed with 
us at once. He promised to do so but asked us to wait for 
him a short while, as his camel was in the pasture. In the 
meantime Da‘san’s uncle came up to us and invited me to 
remain in the camp as his guest. I thanked him for his 
invitation but regretted that I could not accept it, because 
our camels were thirsty and we were anxious to water them 
at the well of ar-Rawjan. He offered to water our camels 
at the well, msds, of Abu Nmar and said that in the meanwhile 
we could rest in his tent. He at once began to question us 
about our journey, warning both us and our new guide against 
the dangers by which we were threatened. He asked whether 
I had spoken with the chief Da‘san and why we were coming 
that way, since we were neither buying nor selling anything. 
Knowing the disastrous consequences of such conversations, 
I beckoned to Sbejh, went with him to my saddle to put 


180 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


something in order there, telling him in the meanwhile to 
ask the new guide to make haste and to say that we would 
wait for him by the rocks of al-Kwejmi. Thereupon I swung 
myself into the saddle and, saluting all those present, rode 
off to the south. My companions were glad to get away from 
the camp of the Raw4azin, for they were afraid that they 
might make us prisoners, rob us, and send us back to Tebuk. 

To the southeast of AShab rise the two low, white knolls 
of at-Twérén, to the south of them the cone of ar-Rhejmi, 
and to the west of the latter the isolated knoll al-Batra. 
Al-Batra is said to have shifted to its present position from 
the east and to have brought flints with it, for only upon 
it and upon about fifty tiny hills situated to the north of 
it can flints be found. There are none anywhere else in the 
uplands of Hesma. The small, low hills with the flints are 
called the “baggage of Batra,” Hellet al-Batra. To the north- 
west of al-Batra stands a solitary talh tree, and near it is 
the msas of Beni ‘Okba. Another well of the same name is 
situated on the southern border of the plain of az-Zawije 
southwest of the hill Glejf as-Semen. The plain of az-ZAwije 
extends from al-Mkejmen as far as the foot of the granite 
mountains of ar-Rawjan and al-Meljan and is bordered to the 
east by the volcanic wall of Gedirt as-Sefi with its south- 
western spur al-Lehjane. The chain of granite mountains 
dividing the coast, known as at-Tihama, from the uplands 
of Hesma forms a ridge, which, with the eastern spurs, is 
five to ten kilometers broad and is known as as-Sefa’. The 
inhabitants of the Tihama coast give the name of al-Geles (the 
rocky plain) to the eastern uplands, because they are composed 
of rocky plains. 

At 8.54 we crossed the river bed of al-Hambara, in which 
there grows a great deal of talh. To the west of us Sbejh 
pointed out in a channel the rain well, msds, of al-MaSkah. 
By the gap through which the se%b of al-MaSkah finds its 
way to the west, on the north side, is the spring of as-Sidd 
and, on the south, that of a8-Sikri. Around the latter the 
road leads to the pass Nakb al-Malhage. This is a deep notch 
between high, rocky walls, black below and red above, from 
which a lower group of sandstone hills runs to the east. 

From 9.16 to 11.24 we waited for the new guide in a 
sheltered place among the rocks of al-Kwejmi. While we were 
drawing a map of the surrounding district we were joined 


TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL 181 


by two shepherds, who told us that smallpox had broken out 
in the encampment of the Hwétat at the head of the se%b 
of Tmarr and that therefore all the Beni ‘Atijje encamped 
in the Se%b of al-Hambara were fleeing to the north. This 
was bad news, because we wanted to proceed along the northern 
foot of the Tmarr mountain range to the southeast. The new 
cuide failed to turn up; either Da‘san had returned or Da‘san’s 
uncle had frightened him. Our guide Sbejh also wanted to 
leave us. Previously he had feared the Hweétat and the Beli; 
now he feared still more that he might catch the smallpox. 
His camel had remained in Da‘san’s camp, and the new guide 
was to have brought it to him. He asked me for his wages, 
because he said that he did not intend to lose his life. It 
took me a long time before I could persuade him to remain 
with us until we found another guide. 

Having left al-Kwejmi, we proceeded through the plain 
of az-Zawije farther to the south. At twelve o’clock we had 
on our right the pink-tinted elevation of at-Thi and at 12.20 
on our left the yellowish hill of al-Asejher with, near by in 
the shallow se%b of al-Kweéra, the hollow Radir abu ‘“Azejne 
and farther east Radir Abejter. On the east the plain is 
enclosed by the steep slopes of sandstone hills about sixty 
meters high, upon which lies a horizontal stratum of lava. 
The seib of al-Hambara proceeds from a deep, broad gap, 
the sides of which are as upright as if they had been arti- 
ficially made with a T square. To the south we saw the 
blackened and rugged elevation of as-Swejwin. We rode through 
the numerous shallow, dry watercourses of as-Sa‘ejdat, which 
run in a northeasterly direction. Footpaths lead through them 
to the gap of al-Hrejta. 

At 1.55 P. M. we approached the rugged crags in which 
lies the rain well M8A8 al-Gdejjed. With our loaded rifles in 
our hands we scrutinized the crags to the right and left, for 
we feared that there might be robbers about. At 2.55 we 
went down to a well where we remained until 4.55. This well 
is situated in the bed of the rocky ravine nearly one hundred 
meters deep. The well itself, which was about three meters 
deep and half dried-up, contained only a little water. Halil 
climbed up to the southern slope to keep watch while Serif 
went down to the well and collected water with a dish into 
a canvas bucket. Mutallek drew out the filled bucket and 
poured out water for the camels, which had to drink two at 


182 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


a time. Rif‘at and Timan drove away the rest of the thirsty 
animals, which were thronging round the well. Going down 
with Sbejh through the se%b to look for more wells, we found 
a few half-covered in and likewise containing water, but 
it was not possible to lead the camels to them because the 
channel was littered with huge rugged boulders, among which 
it was very difficult to push forward. We also wished to fill 
at least one bag with water. Sbejh crawled to the well and 
with a bowl poured water into the bag, which I held suspended 
by a rope. We had filled the skin about half-way, when above 
us we heard a voice and a dull report, and a bullet struck 
the rock a few centimeters above my head. To this very day 
I feel ashamed to think that for a moment I was frightened. 
Pulling myself together, I held the rope with the water bag in 
my left hand, while with my right I drew out my Mannlicher 
pistol and fired it in the direction of the smoke. At that 
moment Sbejh crawled from the well, took his rifle, and 
shouted : 

“If you are ‘Atawne or Hwétat, show yourselves, but 
otherwise disappear, or we will shoot you all.” 

Somewhere about the middle of the left-hand slope we 
perceived two rifle barrels aimed at us. We did not see our 
assailants, who were hidden in a rocky crevice. In reply to 
Sbejh’s challenge, a voice was heard: “Who are you?” Sbejh 
gave a suitable reply; whereupon two men appeared and 
scrambled down to us in a zigzag. They belonged to the 
Hwetat at-Tihama and were guarding the approach to the 
various wells, because they said within the seiban of as- 
Sa‘ejdat there had appeared a band of robbers whom they 
wished to frighten away by preventing them from getting 
at the water. 

Having filled the water bag we returned to our compan- 
ions, who were awaiting our arrival in a state of alarm. 
They had heard the three shots, Taman had recognized the 
sound of my pistol, and they had not known whether to 
hasten to our assistance or to guard our baggage and the 
camels. The baggage had been loaded up and Mutallek said 
that the camels had drunk all the water they wanted. But 
Riffat’s camel began greedily licking the water bag which we 
had brought, showing that it was thirsty. As I supposed that 
only that camel had not drunk enough, I ordered water to 
be given it from the bag, but all the rest of the camels 


TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL 183 


pressed forward, lhkewise wishing to drink. At my command 
the baggage was again unloaded from the animals, and we 
once more doled out water among them (Fig. 69). As they 
were tired and had rarely been able to graze to their satis- 
faction, I decided that they should at least not suffer thirst 
(temperature: 36° C). 





Fic.69—At the rain well MSa§ al-Gdejjed. 


From al-Gdejjed we wished to proceed to the ruins of 
Rwafa. Sbejh declared that we should find no water there, 
but one of the two men who had attacked us assured us 
that the rain water well there contained water that year, but 
that it flowed slowly. I should have liked to take one of the 
Hwetat with me as a guide, but they would not accompany 
us, their excuse being that they were afraid of the bands 
of raiders and that they could not leave their post. Having 
returned to the plain, we branched off to the east-southeast. 
There was a complete absence of pasturage, for all the plains 
were dry. It was not until after six o’clock in the evening 
that we perceived near the western border of the narrow 
defile Harm al-Faham a fair-sized group of half-green ‘arfeg. 
We remained there from six o’clock to 8.20 (temperature: 


184 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


31.5°C) and at 9.04 encamped on the eastern edge of the plain 
of al-Faham, to the southeast of the rock Glejf as-Semen. 
Throughout the night we kept watch, as we were afraid that 
there might be robbers about, but we saw nobody. 


HARM AL-FAHAM TO THE SEB OF RETAME; RWAFA 


Starting at 4.28 A.M. on Saturday, June 25, 1910, we 
rode through the narrow passage Zjejkat al-Fahade, which 
is enclosed on the north by the dark slope of az-Zhejr and 
on the south by the sides of the mutilated cone of Ammu 
Rkejbe. After a while we perceived to the north the deep 
gap of Rwél al-Araneb and to the southeast the dark range 
of Umm Ratje. At 5.05 we found some fresh ‘arfeg, upon 
which our camels grazed until 5.28. The passage Zjejkat al- 
Fahade is more than five hundred meters broad and is shut 
in on the north and south by steep, red slopes, upon which 
there is a layer of scattered lava about thirty meters thick. 
At 6.44 we observed on the right the flat table hill of as- 
Shejme, south of it the al-Mesabe range, and at some distance 
to the northeast the long, high ridge of al-Henw, with the 
huge cone of al-MSakkar beyond. At 7.20 we changed our 
course somewhat more to the southeast and after about ten 
minutes reached the spacious basin of Zenkulla. The soil of 
this basin was covered with a growth of green shrubs from 
which the steep rocks rose up on all sides, red below, white 
in the middle, and black above. To the west were the red 
rocks of al-Mesabe, north of them the black crags of ar-Rha, 
and still farther north the ridge of al-Henw; to the east 
rose Abu Krutn (which is connected with the granite mountain 
range of Tmarr), with the huge dome of al-Hateb to the south- 
west, and to the south the spur of ad-Dwejme. On the western 
flank of the mountain range thus formed is the pass Nakb 
an-Netki. To the east of Abu Krtn appeared the oblong ridge 
of as-Sarawil, and behind it rose the isolated knolls of Nuf 
and Nuwejfat; then to the north of the latter the huge 
elevation of Amm Wa‘al. The western part of al-Henw is 
known as al-MSakkar. Its northwestern spurs, called Lehjane, 
are separated by the se%b of al-Henw from the hills of Hbejrat, 
Which are clustered together to the west of ar-Rha. 

On the southwestern slope of the basin of Zenkulla we 
Saw a wall more than four meters high and behind it the 


TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL 185 


ruins of an old building. These are the remains of the sanctuary 
of Rwafa, by which we dismounted at 7.35 A. M. (Figs. 70, 
71, 72). In front of the wall there is a caved-in well, behind 
the wall a large burial place on the old building site, and 
about five hundred meters farther to the southwest, at the 
foot of the rocks of al-Mesabe, a rain water well, msds, 
near which stood eight camels. A larger well, known as al- 
Lawi, is situated about five kilometers to the southwest of 
Rwafa. I ordered Serif, Sbejh, and Mutallek to lead our camels 
away immediately to the well and to give them plenty to 
drink there. Halil was to guard our baggage while I examined 
the ruins. I found it difficult to sketch their plan. Nothing 
was left except the above-mentioned wall; the rest of the 
foundation walls had been covered up by large stones, which 
we could not remove in order to draw a sketch plan. On the 
building site among some stones I discovered one stone with 
a Greek inscription and another with a Nabataean inscription. 
Among the building material I perceived a stone more than 
two meters long, which I regarded as an architrave. Surmising 
that there might be some inscriptions upon it, with the help 
of Taman I scraped away some of the smaller stones with 
which it was covered and endeavored to insert my hand beneath 
it. From under the stone a snake ran out; after thrusting 
my stick underneath to make sure that no more snakes were 
concealed there, I rummaged beneath its lower portion and 
by my sense of touch traced the cuttings of separate letters. 
When our comrades had come back from the well, we turned 
the stone over. On it was carved a long Nabataean and Greek 
inscription of which I prepared two molds. 

The spelling of the name of this building is uncertain. 
I recorded Rwafa and Rwafa; my companions, speaking the 
vernacular, said that it is generally known as Rwafa, but 
the old natives call the ruins Rwafa. According to the bilingual 
inscription, the sanctuary was built by the Thamudenoi tribe 
at the beginning of the second half of the second century 
of our era. 

We should have liked to have remained at least two days 
by these ruins and, with the help of the Hwetat camping 
not far away, to have cleared the débris, examined the separate 
stones, and drawn an accurate plan. Among the stones there 
are certainly many others with inscriptions, and possibly more 
records are buried beneath the building material. We were 


yy? 


GAT, 


THE NORTHERN HE 


186 


“"qsB9 


oY} Woy BJEMY FO 


sumny—0o), ‘DIq 





TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL Bly 


unable, however, to remain there. From the well a Hwéti 
came to us and rebuked us for damaging property not our 
own. When I asked him to stay with us he said that he was 
about to leave immediately with his camels, because the district 
round the Rwafa was infected with smallpox. Near the hill 





Fic. 71—Ruins of Rwafa from the northeast. 


of Abu Krtn, he said, there was a deserted tent with two 
men who had been taken ill with smallpox; his own health 
and that of his children was much more valuable to him 
than the wages which I offered him. My native companions 
were also afraid of infection and urged me to finish the work 
as quickly as possible and to leave Rwafa. Moreover, they 
supposed that the chief Da‘san might have returned and 
that he would take measures against us. The gendarme Halil 
then reminded me that the mudir and Salem, the representative 
of chief Harb, would certainly incite the “Atawne against us. 
There was nothing left for me but to get away from Rwafa. 

We wanted to proceed due southeast across the eastern 
flank of the Tmarr mountain range, but the Hwéti warned 
us against this region, which, he said, was infected with 
smallpox. He also informed me that the journey was extremely 


188 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


difficult and that our weary camels would perish after a few 
days. I had not intended to change the direction. I wished 
to make my way due southeast, but the guide Sbejh declared 
that he was unacquainted with this territory, and, as the 
Hwéti would not accompany us, I could not venture to enter 


[eh 0 


RWAFA AND ENVIRONS 


METERS 
200 300 





Fic.72—Rwafa and environs. 


the volcanic and almost impassable region without a guide. 
Then too, the journey would have been useless, because I should 
have been unable to note down the names of the places which 
I saw. Sbejh was willing to accompany us as far as the 
“great ruins” of al-Kena’, where he said we could certainly 
find the ‘Atawne, from whom we could then select a guide 
who would accompany us farther to the south. At these 
“oreat ruins,’ he said, there are gardens, aqueducts, and 
ruined houses; the Hweti confirmed this, and I had heard 
the same thing from Salem at Tebtk. I agreed that Sbejh 


TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL 189 


should guide us to al-Kena’, although this was a great detour 
from our original direction and we should thus arrive in the 
vicinity of Tebtk, exposing ourselves to the danger of being 
overtaken by the gendarmes of the mudir. 

At 11.28 we left the ruins of Rwafa and proceeded in 





Fic. 73—Bir (well of) al-Madktr. 


a northerly direction (temperature: 34.5° C). I was extremely 
sorry at being compelled to leave this important place without 
having thoroughly investigated it. I made up my mind that, 
as soon as ever I could, I would go to Rwafa for a week’s 
sojourn and carry out excavations there. At 12.50 P. M. we 
reached the foot of the al-Henw ridge, where we saw clusters 
of talh trees with green shoots, upon which our camels fed 
with enjoyment. We remained there until 1.10 (temperature: 
36.2° C). Then we ascended the ridge, leading the camels by 
the rein, and on reaching the top climbed down again along 
a steep path into the se%b of Lebid, bordered on the west 
by the high, rocky slope of Lehjane and on the east by the 
still higher slope of Dejtan. At three o’clock we halted by 
the well of al-Madktr (Fig. 73), situated in the Se%b just 
mentioned (temperature: 36.8° C), where we found two women 


190 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


watering a large flock of black goats. One of the women was 
the sister of the chief Harb eben ‘Atijje, to whose kindred 
the camp situated to the north of the se%b belonged. Halil 
and Sbejh asked her to send us a guide from her camp, who 
could overtake us either at the crossing of ad-Dwejmez or the 
next morning by the water of al-Kena’. We could not enter 
her camp because it was pitched in an almost inaccessible rocky 
ravine. The woman inquired about her brother and his camp 
and promised that she would fulfil our wish. At 3.16 we left 
the seib of Lebid to the east of the pool Radir Abejter, 
crossed an elevation from which there was a wide view west- 
ward, and at 3.42 descended again into the se%b of ar-Retame, 
where we remained by some blossoming talh trees from 3.55 
to 6.20. The camels did not find much pasture, for there was 
no vegetation in the se%b except the falh trees and a few 
yellowish vimt bushes. The river bed was gray, the rocky 
walls white below, black above, and overhead hovered an ash- 
colored veil of air which blazed with the glowing heat. I trembled 
with ague, Rif‘at complained that he had a severe headache, 
Tuman’s eyes were inflamed, red and swollen, the guide Sbejh 
asked for his wages and announced that he would leave us 
immediately; two of the camels had their backs lacerated and 
bleeding; all were tired and hungry, and we had to press on. 

Following a path about thirty centimeters broad which 
wound among the sharp lava stones, we reached a narrow, 
rocky defile, from which there seemed to be no way out. We 
could not go back, nor was it possible to branch off to one 
side; we had to move forward, for Sbejh declared that this 
defile led to the crossing of ad-Dwejmez. I led the way forward 
with my camel. In places we laid lava stones one upon another 
in order to form steps upon which our camels could mount. 
After an hour’s wearisome march we reached the summit. 
It proved to be an endless plain covered with black lava, 
from which projected only shghtly to the left the elevation 
of al-Harka and to the right the elevation of Dbejjeb. We 
again found the small path about thirty centimeters wide, 
trodden by the camels among the sharp lava stones. From 
this path it was impossible to move aside either to the right 
or to the left. At 7.35 P. M. we found a bare surface measur- 
ing about fifteen meters in diameter, from which the lava 
had been removed, and here we encamped at a height of 
1451 meters (temperature: 28° C). Not knowing whether the 


THBUKSTOLWADE AL-GIZEL 191 


‘Atawne were pursuing us or not, we kept guard over our 
property during the night. 


RETAME TO AR-RKEJK 


On Sunday, June 26, 1910, we were on the march as 
early as 4.25 A.M. The pathway led in a direction which was 
inconvenient for us because we were obliged to move due east 
across the sharp lava. The march was very difficult and 
painful for our camels. The poor animals had to pick their 
way forward through fragments of lava, cautiously stepping 
between them. After only a quarter of an hour, all the camels 
were bleeding from the hocks and joints of their feet, but 
the guide Sbejh assured me that it did them no harm. It 
would be a bad thing, he said, when the soles of their hoofs 
began to bleed. 

At 5.15 we observed to the southeast two isolated knolls, 
the highest peaks of Mounts Naf and Nuwejfat. From them 
there proceeds to the northwest the deep rift of the se%b 
of Abu-l-Kawasim, the lower part of which is known as 
Retame. To the west we could see on the Sinai peninsula 
not only the mountains of the southern part of the peninsula 
but also the plain extending to the north of these mountains. 
Nearer to us towered the steep peaks of Harb and Debbar, 
and to the south we had a view of the greater part of the 
at-Tihama shore. We were traveling at a height of about 
1460 meters. Around us extended a black, lifeless, slightly 
undulating plain that stretched beyond the lmits of our 
vision. The deep, narrow ravines seemed to be blacker than 
the plain itself. 

Before seven o’clock we came to the difficult descent 
into the ravine of al-Kena’ and at 7.33 we had reached the 
channel below. The ravine gradually grew wider, and at 7.40 
on our right we saw a clump of hamdt (wild fig trees) and 
a few fine fig trees, by which we halted at 7.54 (temperature: 
28.5° C). These trees are situated about athird of the way down 
the eastern slope and give shade to a copious spring which fills 
a pool of no great size about fifty meters distant, to which the 
water is conveyed by a trench. Near by were to be seen the 
remains of foundation walls, piles of unhewn stone, and the 
level sites of old gardens, a proof that a village had once 
been situated here. By the spring a number of women were 


192 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


watering some long-haired sheep, and five men were attending 
to about twenty camels. As the sister of Harb had not sent 
us a guide, I should have liked to have hired a guide from 
among the men present, but they all excused themselves, 
saying that their camp was a long way to the northeast and 
that they were on the point of moving northwards for fear 
of the smallpox, which had broken out in the upper part of 
the se%ib of al-Kena’. They told us that we should find an 
Arab camp by the fountain of al-Hadara, situated to the 
south of al-Kena’ in the Se%b of the same name. I asked 
Sbejh to accompany us that far and not to leave us until we 
had another guide. 

At 8.25 we left the spring and proceeded in a north- 
easterly direction. On our left we observed a herd of camels 
going down to drink. It was curious to watch how these 
animals found their way downwards over the steep rocky 
wall. About half-way down the slope projected a narrow, 
horizontal rib, in front of which the camels came to a stand- 
still; the leading animal groped about in front of this rib, 
crawled over it cautiously, but returned and waited until 
all the rest of the beasts had climbed down; only then did 
it follow. 

At 8.40 we branched off eastward by the Se%b of al-Hulful, 
crossed the broad Se?b of Dellem, which is connected with 
the shorter ravines of Dejjer and al-Bahit. At 9.10 we rode 
through the ravine of Ammu Rzej, which merges with 
at-Twejmer; at 9.50 we left al-Kena’, turning almost due 
north, and after crossing the low ridge of Trejf al-BUm we 
made our way into the se%b of Ammu Nsejb, where we 
remained from 10.20 to 12.10 P. M. (temperature: 36° C). 
The camels grazed on fresh Sa‘rdn and rimt. The sun was 
scorching, the rocks and sand so hot that it was painful to 
touch them with the bare hand or foot. The camels, having 
drunk their fill at al-Kena’, were craving for pasture, but 
there was none in the se%b of Ammu Nsejb. I climbed up 
the slope and in a rather small hollow discovered a fairly 
extensive space with a growth of fresh Ssa‘ran, but our camels 
were so tired that they could not get up the steep declivity. 
After several vain attempts one camel after the other knelt 
down in order at least to rest, if it could not satisfy its 
hunger. Nevertheless, we had to urge the tired and hungry 
animals to a further march. 


TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL 193 


We rode through a se%b toward the south-southeast un- 
til we reached the cleft of aS-Seltl, which contains a tiny 
spring. From there we turned eastward at one o’clock. We 
had lost the path. From 2.10 to three o’clock the camels 
grazed on a strip of fresh etmdn, which we found in a ravine 
of no great size. I had sent Sbejh to look for the path, but 
he had not returned. Finally we found him on the height, 
reposing under a crag, cursing the day on which he had al- 
lowed himself to be hired as our guide, complaining of his 
weariness, and consigning us, together with our wages, to the 
nethermost hell. Halil and especially Serif grew so angry that 
they threatened to beat him, but this I would not permit. 
Sbejh was unwilling to go any farther with us. He wanted 
to get back. I should have dismissed him without further 
ado, but this was not possible until we had secured another 
member of the Beni ‘Atijje tribe as guide, and hence also as 
protector, for otherwise they would certainly have robbed 
and possibly even killed us. I sat down by the side of Sbejh, 
gave him medicine which refreshed him somewhat, and asked 
him not to leave us and at least to show us the direction 
in which we could reach the spring of al-Hadara. At last he 
got up and led the way through a plain covered with lava 
to the northwestern slope of the elevation of al-Halawi. There 
he lay down again and asked us to pay no heed to him, but 
to go our way. We were standing on a horizontal ridge some- 
where in the middle of the slope. On our left there rose a 
steep rock, on the right yawned a ravine about one hundred 
and fifty meters deep; ahead of us appeared a semicircular 
rocky rift. Halil and Serif looked for the path, but in vain. 
Leading our camels into the rift, we searched about to see 
whether we could descend by its right-hand slope, which form- 
ed a narrow, precipitous spur. Up this spur we could lead 
the camels in zigzags part of the way, but this was possible 
only here and there. In places we had to form steps by means 
of the stones and elsewhere to roll the stones away. Having 
reached the top, we found in front of us still another ravine, 
where we discovered a path leading to the rocky plain, in 
which it was lost once more. I scrambled out on to the sum- 
mit no great distance away and inspected the region. South- 
ward I looked over red, high, billowing crags amongst which 
the se%tb wound. East and west the view was shut off by 
heights. Somewhere about the middle of the southern slope 


194 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


of the eastern height, I perceived a shining strip, a path, to 
which we directed our footsteps. Sbejh came on behind us, 
continually complaining. After six o’clock we saw on the 
northwest the Klejb Mardtd, on the east the ridge of “Asejfir, 
and we then caught sight of the deep basin of ar-Rkejk. 
The slope now became somewhat more steep and we went 
down in zigzags along the path. We were very glad when to 
one side we saw a number of goats and on the southeastern 
edge of the basin three small tents. At 6.30 we were in the 
basin and at 6.385 we encamped about five hundred meters 
north of the tents (temperature: 32.2° C). 

Halil immediately entered the largest tent and after a 
while returned with a lame man about forty years of age, 
who was willing to act as our guide. Halil apologized for hav- 
ing brought us a lame guide (Fig. 74), but he said that this 
was the only adult male in the tents. All the rest of the men 
and youths were away on a raid. The new guide explained 
that while he was still a lad a large stone had fallen on his 
right foot and had crushed it. Since then he could only walk 
with a crutch and lived on the generosity of others. “My 
property consists of a two-year old camel, ka‘ajjed, ten small 
goats, and four little girls.” The tent in which he lived did not 
belong to him but to the chief, his relative, who was not there. 
Sbejh recovered as soon as he had obtained his wages, and was 
quite satisfied because he had obtained more than he had 
expected. The night was peaceful and we were able to rest. 


BASIN OF AR-RKEJK TO AZ-ZURBA 


On Monday, June 27, 1910, we left our encampment at 
five o’clock in the morning (temperature: 24° C), proceeding 
through the se%b in a southerly direction. On the surround- 
ing rocks Tamud inscriptions could be seen here and there. 
My camel went lame in its left forefoot and about every two 
minutes limped so much that it sank down on its knees. 
Jumping down from the saddle, I examined its foot and in 
the sole found a sharp stone about the size of a hazel-nut. 
I extracted the stone and stopped up the wound with cotton 
wool, which, however, immediately fell out. Sand penetrated 
into the wound, and whenever the animal stepped on a sharp 
stone it nearly sank down to its knees, but nevertheless I had 
to move forward. 


THB KeLORWADI AT -CIZEI 195 


Having left the river bed we proceeded after six o’clock 
along the side of the ridge of al-Rmejjem, which runs in 
a southerly direction. On the surrounding boulders Tamtd 
inscriptions could likewise be seen. The path was covered 
with coarse gravel, and my camel could make no headway. 





Fic. 74—Our guide at ar-Rkejk. 


The guide jadvised us to bind up the left foot with a piece 
of skin. Accordingly, from a skin water bucket, known as 
mattdra or zemzemijzje, we cut out a piece of skin the size 
of a camel’s hoof, which we tied firmly above its ankles, but 
the animal had not gone ten paces before this artificial sole 
fell off. We then unsaddled the camel, made it kneel down, 
tied up its legs, rolled it over, and sewed the skin on to its 


196 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


sole. It was a laborious task which took until eight o’clock 
but proved successful. The skin kept on the whole day, the 
camel did not stumble, and the wound closed up somewhat. 

At 8.10 we entered the Se%b of al-Hadara, which extends 
to the northeast, merges with the se%b of as-Sdér, and forms 





Fic. 75—Umm Leben. 


the se%b of al-Etel, terminating in al-Mehteteb, northeast of 
Tebuk. At 8.40 on our left we perceived the high, black wall 
of Umm Leben (Fig. 75) and at 10.20 reached the well of 
al-Hadara. This well is about two meters deep and always 
contains water. The dry watercourse is covered with fluvial 
deposits and débris of rocks, and there were no plants in it. 
At 9.46 we turned northeast through a gap between the ridge 
of al-Maw‘ada and Umm Leben to the wells of an-Nwéb‘e, 
where we remained from 10.20 to 12.50 P. M. These wells 
are situated in a deep se?%b enclosed by bare rocks. There 
are eight wells still active, varying in depth from three to 
four meters and filled with clear, fresh water to a depth of 
six-tenths of a meter. Unfortunately there were no pastures 
in the vicinity. On leaving the wells we rode for five minutes 
through a se%b in which, about two kilometers farther to 


TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL 197 


the northeast, there is the smaller well of al-Ferri. We climbed 
the right-hand slope of the se%b to the east and from the 
top at 1.24 perceived the dark rocks of Sawda’ Hamde and 
farther to the northeast the red hills of ad-Dahahir. At two 
o’clock we proceeded along the height Srejf ab-al-Biz, from 
which we had an unobstructed view of the mutilated cone 
of al-Watar to the southeast and of a large clump of talh 
trees near the water of al-Bed*. 

The character of the landscape gradually altered. The 
black lava receded in places, and red elevations began to appear, 
with isolated brownish cones and cupolas upon them. But the 
region was bare and parched, because there had been no rain 
for four years. Through the se%b of Abu Nmar we reached 
the broad and deep Se%b of al-Basiri, where we entered an 
ancient road running north and south. On all the more con- 
spicuous points to the right and left of the road there were 
small circular towers about two meters high and from two 
to ten meters in diameter. Most of these towers were built 
of stones without mortar, and some were quite empty inside. 
Our guide told us that they are landmarks for the wayfarer, 
pointing out the way in the midst of these craggy hills. They 
are probably the ancient dram (stone landmarks). At 3.30 
there hovered before us the oblong mountain of az-Zurba, in 
front of which glistened the broad plain of al-Bedi‘, surrounded 
by red hills. We moved forward between the low elevations 
of al-Manaher. At four o’clock we descended into the Seb 
of al-Bedi’ where we remained by a palm grove from 4.40 
to 4.58 (temperature: 39.2° C). The palm trees belonged to 
the chief ‘Alejjan eben Sadfan, of the clan of the Sa‘ejdanijjin, 
who encamps there when the dates ripen. Northeast of the 
palm trees there were ten wells, each about three meters 
deep, artificially walled in or hewn from the rock. They always 
contain water and could be used to irrigate a large palm grove. 

After filling one water bag, we rode to the southeast 
past numerous goat folds. Entering a small se%b we ascended 
its left-hand slope, where we found a large burial place. The 
tombs were not raised up but were level even with the ground 
and surrounded by a low, circular wall measuring about one 
hundred and eighty centimeters in diameter (Figs. 76, 77, 78). In 
the middle there are stone slabs; in each case two are inserted 
in the ground and a third laid across them, or else all three 
or even four are propped up against one another. The stone 


198 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 














Fic. 76 

| see 
ag es 
eee 
eye eae 
pee: 
§on,2, 98% 

KIGwa tf 





Fia. 78 
Fic. 76, 77, 783—Graves at al-Bedi. 


wall of some tombs is semicircular, 
and in front of some there is a hollow 
bordered with stones and measuring 
about forty centimeters in diameter. 
The Arabs place small green ratam 
twigs upon the slabs and pour water 
into the hollow, this being their 
manner of honoring the dead. 

Not far beyond the burial place, 
in a Se%b enclosed on all sides, at 
the foot of the north side of az- 
Zurba (Fig. 79) we found a fairly 
good pasture, where, consequently, 
we encamped at 5.10. In the even- 
ing we ascertained the latitude 
(temperature: 30.2° C). 


AZ-ZURBA TO ABU SAWRA 


On Tuesday, June 28, 1910, we 
left our camping place at 4.30 A.M. 
(temperature: 16.5° C) and at five 
o’clock mounted a 
height from which 
we had a delightful 
view to the south. 
The region is only 
Slightly undulating 
and is covered with 
yellowish ratam and 
coffee-colored sth 
which appeared to 
have a dark-blue veil 
over it. In the back- 
ground hovered the 
isolated broken cone 
of al-Watar, from 


which what seemed to be small clouds of smoke were being 
carried eastward by the wind. In front of al-Watar towered 
the cone of al-Laja, and to the north of both of these moun- 
tains lay the brilliant uplands of Gdejdilat, an-Na‘ame, an- 
Nimrijjat, and an-Na‘ajem. The first rays of the rising sun 


TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL 199 


caressed the hills and the shrubs. At 5.26 we passed by an- 
other ancient burial place similar to the one described above. 
On three slabs could be seen numerous carved tribal tokens. 
From 5.50 to seven o’clock we stopped to draw a sketch map 
of the surrounding district. Thence the road led us through 


























Fic. 79—Mount az-Zurba. 


the basalt rocks of al-Ktejjat, the highest of which towered 
above the neighboring country to a height of one hundred 
and fifty meters with perfectly vertical sides. At 7.26 we had 
the well of al-Ktejje on our left; then we crossed various small 
ravines and at 9.30 reached the valley of ar-Rumaza, which 
forms the border between the Beni ‘Atijje and the Beli. From 
10.15 to 11.55 we rested on the western slope of the black 
basalt mountain of al-Laja (Figs. 80, 81). It was an unpleasant 
halt, for the sun blazed, the barrels of our rifles were so hot 
that we did not venture to touch them with our bare hands, 
and the camels were tired and hungry, having found no 
pasture. 

At 12.80 P.M. we had the head of the deep Se%b of ar- 
Retame on our left, to the south the beginning of the basalt 
rocks of ad-Dére‘, and to the east the table mountain of al- 
Watar, which is visible from Tebtk. Al-Watar is composed of 
five strata placed horizontally one on the other. Upon the 
fourth stratum from below, which has the appearance of being 
artificially cut out on the slopes, lies the fifth like a flat 
hat. At 1.35 we entered the eastern upland of an-Na‘ajem. 
This consists of numerous low, flat, black knolls separated 
by deep ravines, to the north of which rose the red groups 
of the an-Nimrijjat hills. On the right and left of the road 
could be seen piles of tiny stones in addition to the small, 
round towers which we have already mentioned. The guide 
explained that the clefts near by were inhabited by an evil 
female spirit, who, he said, was fond of enticing lonely travelers 


200 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 





Fia. 80 





Fia. 81 


Fic. 80—Mount al-Laja from the east. 
Fic.81—From base of Mount al-Laja looking south. 


TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL 201 


from the road and then destroying them. Wishing to overcome 
her temptations, the travelers pick up the small stones, place 
them on the boulders and think of their relatives, who would 
mourn for them if they knew that they had gone astray and 
perished of hunger. 

On our right we had the black cone of Ab-ad-Dahab, 
covered here and there with a growth of yellow moss (tem- 
perature: 35° C). 

From 2.48 to 3.15 the camels grazed in the Seib of Sem‘ 
which proceeds from the huge mountain of Sejban, towering 
up to the southwest. In the northern part of Sejban are the 
wells of Ghajjer and al-Geba’. At 3.32 we crossed the Se%b of 
al--Atane, more than four hundred meters broad and containing 
a growth of sth, baejtran, kejstim, and ratam. To the north- 
east, not far from our road, al-“Atane is joined by the Se%b 
of Zrab.*® 

The country now becomes rolling; the sevbdn are broad, 
the slopes less abrupt but more stony. At 4.08 we turned 
to the south toward Mount Sejban with its innumerable 
clusters of knolls and mutilated cones. In front of us 
towered the black spur of ad-Dara. At 4.46 we were near 
the water of al-Embate, where we found a large herd of camels 
being driven by armed men to Mount Sejban. The camels 
belonged to the Huzara’ clan of the Beni ‘Atijje. The men 
in charge of them said that al-Ajde were preparing a warlike 
expedition against them. An ‘Atiwi, or member of the Beni 
“Atijje, who had served among the Ajde as a shepherd, having 
heard about this raid, had escaped and warned his kinsmen 
of the danger by which they were threatened. The Huzara’ 
and al-Masabhe had then occupied the crossings at al-Lwij, 
La‘aban, and al-Kné‘er, leading from the southeast into their 
territory, and had sent herds of camels to Mount Sejban to 
hide them there. The flocks of goats had remained near the 
tents which they had erected in hidden ravines. 

We were rather exhausted before we found one of these 
small encampments of the Huzara’ in the narrow, stony se%b 
of Abu Sawra, where we halted at 5.58 (temperature: 29° C). 


Abu Sawra is the head of Wadi al-Ahzar (or al-Hazar), which stretches 
in anorth-northeasterly direction, then swings off to the northwest by the 


16 Jakat, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 3, p. 614, mentions ‘Etal as a defile and valley in 
the land of the Gudam. — Our “Atane (n interchanged with!) is a valley and a defile, as a 
road leads through it from the west to the valley of al-Gizel and to the plains near Tebuk, 
traversing a nearly impassable volcanic region which formerly belonged to the Gudam., 


202 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


railway station of al-Ahzar, and terminates in al-Mehteteb. On the left 
al-Ahzar is joined by the seibdn of an-Na‘ame, ad-Delw, and ad-Da‘ég, 
which descend from the cone of Hirk farther on by ad-Datg and 
al-‘Omejdén , which rise among the rocks of Mejstra; then by Abu Tarfa’, 
between which and the lower course of al-‘Omejdén stands the cone al- 
Kné‘er; then follow the se“bdn of Sk@ijje, Abu Halfa, Di Tin, al-Wu- 
zerijjet al-Béza’, at-TUlijje, al-Geleb, Ummu Kwe’, al-Hazra, ad-Dréka, 
al-Mustabra, al-Worob, and Ummu Rkébe. The valley is joined on the 
right by the seibdn of ar-Rasde, with al-La‘aban; and by al-Fhejl, as- 
Samake, al-WuZerijjet as-Samra’, al-Hmejda, Soman, al-Mehtebi, Ammu 
Rtejmat, as-Stik, Erdéht ‘Aneze, Ammu Kanatel, Umm Safa’, al-Béza, and 
Umm Tina. 

In the ten tents of the camp near which we halted there 
was only one man and he was mad, magnun. Having heard 
of another encampment about a kilometer farther on to the 
northeast, I sent Halil there to bring us a new guide, because 
our lame one was no longer familiar with the country. In this 
second camp there were five men, all of whom came to us 
with Halil. I took as guide a young man who answered all my 


questions accurately. In the night I again suffered with ague. 


THE SETB OF ABU SAWRA TO RIGM AL-FASED 


On Wednesday, June 29, 1910, we started off at 4.10 
A. M. (temperature: 15° C) while it was still dark. The guide 
was to catch up with us. The se%b of Abu Sawra is narrow, 
and we had to go round the camp, frequently knocking against 
the ropes of the tents and thus disturbing all the dogs, who 
pursued us a long way. After about twenty minutes the new 
guide overtook us. The mad old man likewise joined us and 
kept on shouting that Allah might make the road smooth for 
us. Having left the setb of Abu Sawra at 5.30 by way of 
a rocky ridge, we reached the broad Se%b of al-Béza, here 
¢ ered with a growth of reeds. Here and there could be seen 
SmMiill pools of dark brown water which gave off a very 
unpleasant smell. At six o’clock we halted on the southwestern 
Slope of these pools, where our camels drank and we took in 
a supply of water (Fig. 82). From all sides camel riders were 
coming up to the wells, fully armed to repel the expected 
attack of the Ajde. The water near al-Béza is sufficient to 
irrigate large gardens or fields. That the whole surrounding 
district was once cultivated is proved by the remains of old 
garden walls and piles of stones on the gentle slopes where 
vines once grew. These piles of stones are particularly numerous 


TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL 203 


on the southeastern slope of ad-Dara, which runs northeast 
and southwest. Behind ad-Dara rises the southern peak of 
Mount Sejban, known as as- -Sirt, from near which, to the 
south, flow the copious springs of al-Lowza and ad-Difla. 
South of ad-Dara extends the low ridge of Abu Karnejn, 





Fic. 82—The se%b of al-Béza. 


upon which are two peaks, and to the southeast of Abu 
Karnejn appears the broad elevation of al-Muhteles. 

Upon leaving the water of al-Béza at 6.23 we rode in 
a southerly direction through a plain covered with coarse 
gravel. Our guide told us that he had been on his wa; to 
al-Kerak for grain and he complained that the railway ca’ ses 
very high prices throughout the country. Before the railway 
was built the grain at al-Kerak and al-Belka’ was much cheaper. 
Now a camel load (one hundred and fifty kilograms) of barley 
costs five megidijjat (about $4.50) at Kerak, and a load of 
rice at al-Wegh costs fourteen megidij7dt and a half (about 
$13.05). The rice is bought by the chiefs alone and they give 
it only to specially honored guests. The rest of the Beni 
‘Atijje are glad if they can sometimes bake a single loaf. If 
the semh thrives, they mix the flour made from it with 


is" 


204 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


barley flour. The guide mentioned with delight that in that 
year the great areas between Tubejz and Hesma were covered 
with semh, so that every family would have a few bags of 
semh seed. From 7.30 to 7.50 our camels grazed. On the 
southwest appeared the cones of Abu Snan.**7 

At eight o’clock we came upon fourteen small piles of 
stones, which had been set up as a memorial to the fact 
that upon this place the chief Twéle® al-Hozri saved fourteen 
starving warriors. The latter had gone on a raid but had 
been surrounded and overpowered and were obliged to give 
up their arms, camels, and all their supplies, including even 
their clothing, and then had to return home on foot. For 
eight days they lived on various herbs, but on the ninth they 
became so weak that they could go no farther. For two nights 
and one day they remained in the same place, listening to 
the wild animals howling around them at night and in the 
daytime watching the birds of prey wheeling over them. Thus 
they awaited death. At last Allah had pity on them and sent 
the chief Twéle*, who saved them. 

At 8.20, to the east, we perceived the extinct volcanic 
cone of Hebran and nearer to us the broad ravine of Gemim, 
which joins with the se%b of ar-RaSde, which in turn merges 
into the valley of al-Ahzar. On the broad elevation of Umm 
Birka, where we found good pasturage, we remained from 
9.05 to 10.50 (temperature: 39° C). Having unloaded the 
baggage I proceeded with the guide and Taman to a cone 
not far away, whence we drew a sketch of the surrounding 
district. The ascent was difficult because we had to cross 
fragments of lava, continually avoiding large basalt boulders. 

The table mountain of Umm Birka, covered with basalt, is situated 


on the watershed of the valleys of Gizel and al-Ahzar. On the southeast 
Umm Birka is connected with Mount as-Sbah, from which ar-Rigm ex- 


47 Ibn Hisam, Sira (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 1, p. 975, relates that Dihja ibn Halifa of the 
Kalb tribe was sent by the Prophet Mohammed to the Byzantine Emperor. On his return 
he was attacked in the valley of Sinar by al-Hunajd ibn ‘Us of the Zulaj° clan of the 
Gudam tribe and robbed of the gifts and various wares which he was bringing from the 
Emper or. 

Jakut, op. cit., Vol. 3, p. 325, calls the valley in which Dihja ibn Halifa was attacked 
Sinan and locates it in Syria. At the command of the Prophet, Zejd ibn Hareta undertook 
a punitive expedition_against the Gudam, who had attacked Dihja. — 

The valley of Sinar or Sinan may be identical with one of the Se%ibén surrounding 
Mount Abu Snan. From Syria a road led by way of Ajla_to al-Medina around this mountain 
through the valley of al-Gizel. Jakit’s statement that Sinan is situated in Syria is not 
accurate and is due either to the fact that Dihja of the Kalb tribe hailed from Syria or 
that under the Moslems a part of the northern He&4z was for several centuries politically 
administered from the town of Sorar at the southern end of the Dead Sea. Mount Abu 
Snan is situated in the former territory of the Gudam, which extended as far as latitude 
27° 20’ N., thus tallying with the statement of Ibn HiSam that the valley of Sinar belonged to 
the Gudam tribe. 


TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL 205 


tends eastward. Still farther to the east rise the volcanic cones of Dabba, 
Mlejsa, Hebran, as-Sham, Nezth, Abu MarAadif, and as-Sbawi. South of 
the latter appear the cones of ar-Rhajje, with the pyramid of Najef and 
the volcanoes of Ferdan and Ri‘ still farther south; southeast of Ferdan 
and Ri* is the table mountain of Hazma with the spring ‘Ajn Lala on 
its western slope, and south of Lala the hill of at-Tlah, with, to the north- 























Fic. 88—The se%b of an-Nezib. 


west, the voleano of ‘Omejris and the broad ridge of Semne.‘® Upon 
Semne is situated the cupola of ‘A¢ba. 

To the south of Semne extends the black volcanic upland of “Atka, 
with which are connected the ridges of Kté‘at Dijabe, al-MSakkar, and 
Swejd an-Niswan. Looking westward we saw the upland of as-Sowt, 
covered with lava, and to the southwest az-Zelfe, from which the passes 
Nakb Eb‘ejd and Nakb az-Zarba lead to at-Tihama. 


Proceeding through the se%tb of an-Nezib (Fig. 83) to 
the southeast, at 11.32 we crossed several beaten tracks 
leading to the well of al-MSejjid. The region becomes gradually 
more mountainous. At 12.35 we had on our right the high 
hillocks of az-Zelfe, on our left the broad eminence of as-Sbah 
with the well Bir Rzéhan at its southwestern foot. At 1.45 
we perceived before us the high, red wall Kat‘at al-“Egejbi, 
behind it the broad gap formed by the Se%b of an-Nezib, and 
on the southern horizon the lofty mountains of al-Wited and 
al-Gawla. The Se%b of an-NeZzib, which contains numerous talh 
trees, is stony and is enclosed by high rocky walls. Leading 
our camels, we descended into the dry watercourse at a point 
where it is joined by the se%b of al-MSejjid, which descends 
from the northwest. From 3.10 to 5.15 the camels grazed by 
the rain water wells Temajel an-Nezib (temperature: 34.8° C) 
(Fig. 84). At 5.380 we reached the se%b of at-Twejrijje, which 

48 Jakat, op. cit., Vol. 3, p. 146, gives the name of Sumna to the water near the 
valley of al-Kura’ between al-Medina and Syria. — As the vicinity of the Semne ridge contains 
several sources, we might identify one of them as the water of Sumna mentioned by Jakat, 


all the more so because the valley of al-Gizel is connected with the valley of al-Kura’, and 
the road from al-Medina to Syria leads across the foot of the western spur of as-Semne. 


206 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


contains six wells each about two meters deep, with good 
water (Fig. 85) and known as Bjérat Dabbarat. At six 
o’clock we had in front of us the broad ridge of ‘Atka, 
enclosing on the southeast the low elevations Matent al-Merw 
and Matent al-Fle’, said to have been the camping place of 
the Beni Helal on their march from south to north. At seven 
we saw on the right a high pile of stones, Rigm al-Fased, 
and behind it the rocky slope of Kat‘at al-‘Egejbi, with 
kKtée‘at Dijabe to the south. On the southern foot of Kat‘at 
al--Egejbi is the spring of al-‘Akejrbe at the head of the 
Seib of al-Hallas, which merges into the broad se%b of 
al-Farra’. At 7.25 we encamped. The night was warm and 
quite peaceful. 


RIGM AL-FASED TO WADI AL-GIZEL; ATTACKED BY THE BELI 


On Thursday, June 30, 1910, we started off at 4.17 A. M. 
To the east yawned the gap made by the deep se%b of al-Hzejb, 
with low, red crags in front and high, rocky walls behind. 
Before us in the se%b of an-Nezib we saw innumerable red crags 
enclosed by steep, basalt slopes. At 5.10 we had on our left 
the setb of as-Snanijje, on the right Rafwan, and farther 
to the left Ammu-l-GejS. The Se%b of an-Nezib grows steadily 
narrower, and the dry channel winds between the isolated 
knolls and cones of Kté‘at Dijabe, which recall the forma- 
tions of the region of Hesma. At 7.15 on our right we saw 
the red mountain of HaSm Limme, with, to the south, the 
blood-red isolated cupolas of al-Bezi*; between the two runs 
the broad valley of al-Farra‘a. This valley begins near Nakb 
az-Zarba and extends eastward; it is joined on the north 
by the seiban of al-Hallas, Ratje, and al-Rajbe, the last- 
named being connected with as-Sulba; and on the south by 
‘Onejbeé, Hawra, Erzén, at-Twejje, and al-Zdejje. At its 
junction with an-Nezib it forms the valley of al-Gizel. 

To the west appeared the peaks of Nurejjer and Narar 
in the mountain range of as-Sane‘; to the southeast of them 
Abu Tine, al-Wited, the three peaks of Mount Gawla, and 
a butte situated on the ridge of al-Mahaza, with, still farther 
to the southeast, the furrowed mountain of al-‘Ess, Ammu 
Rumejs with its broad saddles, and the pointed as-Sa‘ad. 

At 7.25 we reached the summit of the slope of al-Msejlke, 
Where we remained until 9.20 in order to draw a sketch map 


TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL 207 





Figs 8b 


Fic. 84—Temajel (rain wells of) an-Nezib. 
Fic. 85—The setb of at-Twejrijje. 


208 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


of the surrounding neighborhood (temperature: 34° C). At 
9.50, at the place where the Seibdn of al-Mrallan and al-Roson 
approach the se%b of an-Nezib, we entered a low-lying country 
through which the se%b of al-Farra‘a makes its way. 

The united sevibdn of al-Farra‘a and an-Nezib, as has 
already been stated, form WaAdi al-Gizel. The bed of the latter 
is in places as much as one kilometer broad, covered with 
coarse gravel, but nevertheless showing vegetation. At 11.30 
we crossed the se%b of Rubata, which comes from the east, 
and at 12.05 had on our right the se%b of Zrejs, which forms 
a fairly broad plain covered with sand drifts. 

In the plain of Zrejs we saw the first shepherd of the 
Beli tribe. He rode up to us at a gallop on his camel and 
brandished his rifle. Our guide rode off towards him, not 
wanting him to meet us, for the guide was afraid that if the 
shepherd discovered we were foreigners he might incite his 
friends to rob and even kill us. We were in the territory of the 
Beli and we had no Belawi as a guide and protector. The clans 
of al-Mwahib, as-Shama’, and al-Fré‘at, encamping in the 
valley of al-Gizel and the voleanic regions of ar-Rha’ and 
al--Awérez, are notorious for their rapacity and treachery. 
Our guide told us that they respect neither the right of 
hospitality nor the right of refuge but are continually waging 
war among themselves and obey nobody, not even the head 
chief Sliman eben Refade, who dwells at al-Wegh. Our plan 
was to endeavor unobserved to reach the tent of some family 
or other and, entering the tent, to win over the owner as 
a guide to the nearest camp. Our guide, an ‘Atiwi, thought 
that we should not succeed in doing so and that we should 
only be attacked by the Beli; but trusting in Allah we wished 
at least to make the attempt. 

Having learnt from the guide that the Beli were encamped 
due south, we branched off southward at 12.10 P. M. from 
the valley of al-Gizel by the Se%b of al-Mléha. We proceeded 
through a gray, parched plain covered in places with fine, 
black lava gravel. At 1.05 we caught the first sight of the 
extinct voleano al-“Enaz, far away on the eastern horizon. Soon 
afterwards, at the Se%b of al-Giden, we found the fresh tracks 
of camels coming from the southeast. Following them we 
went up the slope of Mount as-Sa‘ad, rode through a narrow 
defile, and at a distance of scarcely fifty meters in front 
of us perceived about twenty small tents. Before the surprised 


THBUKELOAWADIO AL-GIZED 209 


occupants were aware of it, I ordered my companions to urge 
their camels to kneel down in front of the largest tent, the 
one which was nearest to us. I greeted its owner, he returned 
my greeting, and I was able to enter his tent. If he had not 
returned my greeting, not even his tent would have protected 
us. Seating myself in the tent, I saw about a meter in front 
of me a wooden dish filled with water. I could easily have 
reached it and drunk from it, but I wanted the owner, who 
was silently sitting beside me, to give me a fresh proof that 
he was well-disposed toward me. I therefore asked: “Wilt thou 
not give water to the thirsty ?”’ The owner handed me the dish 
without saying a word, and I drank from it. He still held 
his peace, and the assembled men watched us in an inquisitive 
and hostile manner. Wishing to win them over, I again asked: 
“Hast thou no pots for boiling coffee?” “By Allah, I have,” 
said the owner joyfully, and the others regarded us more 
pleasantly. They brought the pots, kindled a small fire, Serif 
gave them coffee beans, and a kinsman of the owner set 
about preparing the coffee. In the meanwhile I questioned the 
owner about various matters, and he replied briefly. A young 
man then entered the tent, looked at the gendarme Halil, 
and exclaimed: “This is that dog of a Government servant 
who knocked me about at al-Mu‘azzam.” Halil vowed that 
it was not true and that neither by day or night had he 
seen the station of al-Mu‘azzam, and he asked his accuser 
to produce eyewitnesses. But those present were more inclined 
to believe the young man, and the danger which threatened 
us was increasing. The owner then poured about twenty drops 
of freshly boiled coffee for me into his coffee cup, and his kins- 
man poured out some for the rest. The quarrel between the 
young man and Halil ceased for a while. Having drunk the coffee, 
I pointed to my tongue, saying: ‘Behold, thy salt is resting on 
my tongue”; that is to say: “I have become thy guest and ask 
thee to treat me as is demanded by the rights of hospitality.” 
He asked me what I wanted of him. I demanded that he should 
accompany me to al-Hegr, as the Bedouins call Medajen Saleh. 

“The journey to al-Hegr takes more than three days 
and a third. It leads through territory belonging to clans 
with whom we are at war, and I cannot accompany thee 
as far as al-Hegr,” he said. 

“Then accompany me to the nearest clan, and Allah will 
provide for the rest,” I replied. 


210 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Wishing to win him over, I promised him a fitting reward 
and went to my camel. I paid the old guide his wages and 
dismissed him. 

At 3.15 we departed with the new guide, leading our 
camels. Scarcely had we reached the valley when a war cry 
resounded behind us. Turning round, I perceived a crowd of 
savage forms, men and women, running after us with rifles, 
spears, and bludgeons. On the right there was a smaller 
encampment, and from this also various people were hurrying 
against us. After a while we were surrounded. The men and 
women flung themselves on us like wild beasts. 

“You Christians! accursed Christians! we must slay you,” 
they shouted, striking us with the butts of their rifles and 
attacking our camels with sticks and spears, so that some 
of the beasts ran away. What followed cannot easily be 
described, and, even if I were to attempt it, such a description 
would seem improbable to many and would not do justice to 
the danger in which we were. They dragged us off to the 
smaller camp; Rif‘at and Taman they condemned to death 
as Christians and threatened to kill them at once. The rest 
of us were to suffer a similar fate, because the rapacious 
Beli wished to remove all witnesses of their crime. Surrounded 
by a pack of infuriated men and women, abused, ridiculed, 
and even beaten, we did not close an eye all night. 

On Friday, July 1, 1910, early in the morning, a large 
troop of the Shama’ clan arrived at our camp and, after an 
agitated and wordy warfare, compelled our tormentors to 
deliver us up and dragged us off to their camp, which was 
pitched by the spring of Abu RAaka in the valley of al-Gizel. 
Our sufferings continued, but we were helped by the fact 
that at the very beginning I had cried out that I was traveling 
to Sliman eben Refade, the head chief of all the Beli, that 
I was journeying therefore before his countenance and under 
his protection, and that I called upon each one of those 
present to report to him how the Beli were infringing his 
protection. Toward noon there rode into the camp at Abu 
Raka a negro serving under Sliman eben Refade; he threatened, 
if they would not release us, to tell his master how his name 
had been reviled by our tormentors. The negro took our part 
because I had gained his favor by a considerable gift. Negotia- 
tions went on for a very long time before we won our case. 
Our photographic appliances were knocked about, the plants 


TEBUK TO WADI AL-GIZEL PIT 


were crushed, and my notebook with various inscriptions 
disappeared. Finally, at six o’clock in the evening, we were 
able to leave the camp of the Shama’, who gave us a young 
man as a guide. He was to accompany us to the nearest 
camp of the Beli on the road to al-Hegr. 

The ancient tribe of the Beli*”? encamps to the south of 
the Hwetat at-Tihama. To the east its territory extends as far 
as the railway station of Dar al-Hamra’. Its chief clans are: 


al-Ma‘akle al-Wabse 
ar-Rmut al-Mwahib 
al-Fawazle al-Hruf 
az-Zabbale al-WahSe 
as-Shama’ al-“Aradat 


The family of the great chief Eben Refade is a scion of 
the clan of al-Ma‘akle and dwells at the harbor of al-Wegh. 
The oases of Bada’ and Sarab belong to the clan of the 
Wa4bse. 


WADI AL-GIZEL 


At 6.30 P. M. we left the valley of al-Gizel.°° 


On the east of al-Gizel the hills of al-Ma‘ékel separate the Se ib of 
al-Roson from the se%b of Rubata with the Radir al-Lawi. Farther to the 
east the rocks of al-Htan and al--Amara are penetrated by the Sewbdan 
of Halfa and Enké‘, the latter of which contains the springs al-A‘al and 
al-Asfal, and also by the se%b of az-Zuma’. Below the latter the valley of 
al-Gizel is joined on the east by the Se‘ibdn of EnSejfe and al-Gife, which 
come down from the slope of aS-Smejhta near the voleano of an-Negme and 


49 See Musil, Arabia Petraea, Vol. 3, pp. 50f. 


50 Al-Hamdani, Sifa (Miiller), p. 170, says that the territory of the Beli contains the 
places HagaSan, al-Gazl, as-Sukja’, ar-Ruhba, Ma‘den Faran, as well as the settlements 
of Sarb and Bada’ between the oasis of Tejma and al-Medina. On the coast the station of Nabk 
forms the frontier between the Beli and the Gudam. — 

According to these particulars, an-Nabk, situated in the valley of as-Sa‘af, was the 
first halting place in the Beli territory on the Pilgrim Route from Egypt to al-Medina. The 
settlement of Sarb belonged to the Beli tribe, as did also a part of the plain of ar-Rahaba 
and the whole of the valley of al-Gizel, which I identify with the ancient al-Gazl. In the 
time of al-Hamdani the valley of ad-Dama would then have formed the actual frontier 
between the Gudam, who guarded the halting places of al-“Wejned, and the Beli, who 
protected Nabk. This frontier still exists between the Beli and the Hwétat at-Tihama, and, 
just as in the time of al-Hamdani, the valley of al-Gizel as well as Sarb, Bada’, and Sukja’, 
belong to the Beli. Ar-Ruhba, or ar-Rahaba, in the upper part of Wadi ad-Dama belongs 
to both. 

Ibn Habib (al-Bekri, Mu‘gam [Wiistenfeld], p. 789; Jakat, Mu‘gam [Wiistenfeld], 
Vol. 4, pp. 702f.) lceates the boise Majaser, which is mentioned by the poet Kutejjer, 
between ar-Ruhba and Sukja’-I- Gazl, not far from the valley of al- Kura’. 

This Sukja’ -l-Gazl must be distinguished from the settlement of as-Sukja’ situated 
near al- Guhfa, to the southwest of al-Medina. It was in Sukja’-l-Gazl, according to Jakiat, 
that the singer Twejs died, but according to Abu-l-Farag (Ardni [Bulak, 1285 A. H.], Vol. 2, 
p. 172), he died under Caliph al-Walid ibn ‘Abdalmalek at as- Swejda, two night halts from 
al-Medina on the road to Syria. — As the valley of al- Gizel joins the valley of al-Kura’, 
the settlement of Sukja’ -l-Gazl can be included among the settlements in the latter. It 
seems, moreover, that Sukja’-]- Gazl is identical with Sukja Jazid, referred to by al-Mukad- 
dassi, Ahsan (De Goeje), p. 84. 


Thee THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


pass through the plain of Fars Dmeza; lower down al-Gizel is joined by 
Amtar, which descends from the volcano of al-‘Asi; by ar-Raraj and 
ar-Rahama, near which is situated the volcano of ad-Dal; and farther 
south by al-Horb, which flows down from Sihbet ar-Regé*; by at-Tefihe; 
ar-Rusafa; and al-Aharr, all three of which proceed from Sihbet at-Tefihe 
and the volcano al-AShab; and still farther south by ‘Awérez; by Za‘, at 
the head of which towers the voleano Hala’-l-‘Araf; and finally by Gajle. 
On the west al-Gizel is joined below the rocks of al-‘Akaba by the deep 
Seib of Zamr; then by al-Béz and al-Awan, the latter containing a settle- 
ment of the same name; by Sdi‘, winding from the precipitous walls of 
Hamt at-Tjis; by as- Sites al-Mwejzi ; al-Hwejmer; Ammu-z-Zba‘; al-Hon- 
sera; al-Hatta; Rorobin, “pata rises between as-Sikara, as- Sel‘, Gamltid 
Gidel, and al-Mharraka; farther on by al-Mah4za; Jerde; and the fone valley 
of Negd, which extends through the lowland bordered by as-Sel* and al- 
Mhaddes on the north and by Shejb al-Bim and al-Gebala on the south. 
Between the Se‘ibdn of al-Mahaza and Jerde, near the valley of al-Gizel, 
are situated the ruins of the settlement of Balata.®! 


*t Jakut, op. cit., Vol. 2, p. 784, calls Resafat al-Hegaz a spring which, epeomding 
to Abu ‘Abdallah al- Gumahi, is located not far from an-Negal. — The Se‘ibdn of ar-Rusafa 
and Gajle merge into the valley of al-Gizel. By the se%b of ar-Rusafa are the ruins of 
Balata. As this name also recalls Resafa (the paved place), we may identify it with Resafat 
al-Hegaz. 


CHAPTER VIII 


RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK BY WAY 
OF AL-MU‘AZZAM 


THROUGH AL-GAW INTO THE HARRAT AL-‘AWEREZ 


On leaving Wadi al-Gizel we had on the right the Seb 
of ar-Ratijje, which comes from the cone of Slej‘. 

Wadi abu Hamata, through which we now rode, is enclosed 
by high sandstone rocks covered with a stratum of lava. It 
erows broader towards the east. Its channel is more than 
thirty meters broad, four meters deep, and covered with 
a layer of fine sand. On its sides there are numerous talh 
trees and ratam and rimt bushes. Our camels were showing 
signs of great weariness. Mine was limping, and all of the 
animals had such lacerated soles that they walked very 
cautiously. I should have liked to go from Abu Raka direct 
to al-Hegr, but in the volcanic Harrat al-“Awérez our camels 
would certainly have perished. Moreover, I was afraid that 
one guide would hand us over to another and that new 
difficulties and fresh extortions would arise in every camp. 
I therefore intended to proceed through Wadi abu Hamata, 
which is not covered with lava, and thence to the station of 
Dar al-Hamra’. Whether we went south or north from there 
depended on the condition of the camels. As I did not trust 
the guide, for the time being I said nothing to him about 
my intention, not knowing whether his fellow tribesmen would 
attack our encampment during the night. At 7.32 we encamped 
by the dry channel beyond the se%b of Hrejmel. We did not 
light a fire, and nobody ventured to talk aloud. We took the 
guide, along with Serif, into our midst and kept guard over 
him all night. 

On Saturday, July 2, 1910, quite early in the morning, 
I made an attempt to secure the guide for my plan. Halil 
supported me and pointed out to the Belawi the great reward 
he would receive if he accompanied us to Dar al-Hamra’ and 
if he did not share it with anybody. The guide understood 
that he would be rewarded only if he avoided every other 


213 


214 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


encampment, and he promised to guide us so that we should 
not encounter the Beli. Having settled the payment which he 
was to receive for guiding us, he demanded an extra fee for 
giving the topographical names, threatening that otherwise 
he would merely guide us and not tell us the names of the 
various places. On disposing of this matter also to his satis- 
faction, we started off at 4.30. A M. (temperature: 17° C). 

The valley broadens out into a basin enclosed on all sides 
by low, but steep, slopes, and known as al-Gaw (the watering 
place) because it contains many mSsdSe, or rain water wells. 
The plain is covered with a fairly deep layer of clay in which 
various plants thrive luxuriantly, and it therefore forms the 
best winter encampment of the Beli. The guide proudly pointed 
out to us the abundant withered pasturage through which 
we were passing and asked whether throughout our journey 
from Tebtak we had seen so many and such various plants. 
The annuals were yellowish, while the shrubs were a brilliant 
green. At 4.45 we observed the se%b of Derwa on our left. 
To the east of it, Wadi abu Hamata is joined by, the setb 
of as- Sekk, which contains the well of Makran as- Sekk. The 
msds of az-Zennadijje lies to the northeast. Derwa starts from 
the hill of at-Tlah and divides the table mountains of al- 
MSsakkar, Swejd an-Niswan, and al-“Amara on the west from 
the similar mountain of Tadra on the east. In the upper 
part of this Se%b are the rain water wells MSas al-Bli. The 
knoll of Tor Hamde overlooks its mid-course from the west. 
From the east Derwa is joined by the se%b of an-Negili, which 
begins under the name of al-Mrejra to the north of Tadra near 
the wells Kulban Hzer and divides this mountain from al- 
Kafha on the east. Upon the eastern slope of the gray table 
mountain of Tadra is situated the black volcano Hala’-l-Bedr. 
On the western slope there used to flow a spring now said 
to have been clogged up by the collapse of a rock. Southwest 
of Tadra the plain is overlooked by Tor Hamde. To the 
southeast we perceived the hill of Slej‘ and still farther in 
that direction the voleano of al-“Asi, in which are the Morajer 
“Abid Masa, “the caves of the servants of Moses.” Our guide 
explained that the servants of Moses sojourned in them when 
their master was abiding with Allah. Another sacred spot 
is situated by the well of al-Hzér. It is called al-Manhal, and 
upon it are twelve stones known as al-Madbah, where the 
Beli still offer up sacrifices when they are encamped close by. 


RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK 215 


Tadra and the entire surrounding district is associated 
with various legends. The volcano of al-Bedr is said once 
to have vomited fire and stones, destroying many Bedouins 
and their camels and sheep. Since then the Bedouins have 
been afraid to ascend this volcano and they drive away their 
animals, not allowing them to graze upon the slopes or upon 
the gray ridge of Tadra. Beneath the volcano of al-Bedr 
there was once encamped a Bedouin, ‘belonging to the men 
of vision, ahl as-sirr,” 1. e. acquainted with what is a secret 
to others. This Bedouin had intercourse with heavenly spirits. 
When his tribe wished to migrate and to seek better territory 
for their flocks, he dissuaded them, prophesying that they 
would have to face many contests and obstacles in which 
very many of them would perish. But his fellow tribesmen 
would not listen to him. They departed, and the man of 
vision was left deserted with his daughter Hamda near the 
holy voleano of al-Bedr. He used to sit on the summit of the 
voleano and his daughter upon its spur, which was named 
Tor Hamde after her. Every day Allah sent them an eagle, 
which gave half a loaf to the man of vision and half a loaf 
to his daughter. This continued for twenty years. Then at 
last the remnants of his tribe, which had once been so 
powerful, returned to their original settlements. They found 
the man of vision and his daughter, acted in accordance 
with his counsel, and within a short time, with the help of 
Allah, they prospered so much that they recovered their lost 
happiness. 

The plain of al-Gaw forms the frontier between the 
voleanic territory Harrat ar-Rha in the north and Harrat 
al--Awérez in the south. A significant reminder of the latter 
volcanic territory, the huge volcano of al-“Enaz, was perpetually 
in sight to the east. South of al-“Enaz are situated almost 
in a straight line the volcanoes of al-Far, al-Mabna’, Zob‘an, 
Sa‘ede, Sa‘éda, as-Shejb, ar-Rhajje, al-AShab, and al-‘Araf. 
From ar-Rhajje to the northeast descends the Se%b of al- 
Mnakka; from as-Shejb, the short Sse%b of Tarbe, with the water 
of the same name, and al-Hawza; from Sa‘éda, the se?b of 
‘Alija; while from Zob‘an descends al-Mizze. To the east of 
al--Enaz can be seen the volcanoes of Gwejfle, Hala’ Bedr, 
and al-Hrejz, near which is the water of Rareb. Ascending 
gradually toward the northeast we perceived at 7.10 A. M. 
on our right the hills of al-"Omejjed; to the south of them, as- 


216 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Smejhta; and to the east, the volcano of Abu Hasareb. Below 
al-“Omejjed the se‘iban of Hmejjet and at-Tarfaje merge. 

At 7.50 we reached a narrow ravine, the rocky bed of 
which was worn away in places to a depth of one hundred 
meters, thus forming natural reservoirs. The northernmost 
of these reservoirs, surrounded by smooth and almost vertical 
walls, is known as al-Mutawwaha, and here we halted at 
eight o’clock. Camels cannot descend to it, and therefore the 
water remains fresh and pure throughout the year. We drove 
the camels farther to the south to another cavity, full of 
water, which, however, had been polluted with refuse. When 
the animals had drunk, three of them refused to graze. They 
knelt down, and neither kindness nor severity would induce 
them to get up. They were already quite emaciated, and our 
guide asserted that they had no marrow in their bones. 

At 10.30 we left al-Mutawwaha, passing through the 
sandy se?ib of Hmejjet between the rise of al-Kafha and 
the volcanic spurs of as-Sktr and Rubejje. To the northeast 
we saw the volcanoes of Tidnek, Gamlid, and Hala’ Hmejjet; 
at 12.10 P. M. we crossed the se%b of Abu Slejlat and drew 
near to a lava flow which comes from the volcano of Hawmal. 
This voleano towers in complete isolation in the plain. The 
well-formed crater crumbles away toward the west. Northeast 
of it is the smaller volcano of Hwejmel. At 12.18 to the 
northwest of Hawmal we caught sight of Ri° and Ferdan, 
as well as the hill of Najef. 

At 12.36 the volcano of al-Bedr presented a fine view, 
rising as it does above the gray table mountain of Tadra, 
which stands in the midst of the fertile, pale green basin 
of al-Gaw. Behind it, far away to the west, rise red and 
white slopes. I wanted to return to it in order to view the 
surrounding district, especially the sacred place of al-Manhal, 
where various signs and inscriptions are said to be carved 
on sacrificial boulders. But our guide would not accompany 
us there. He reminded me that we might encounter the Beli 
and that our camels were in need of rest. Serif and Halil 
likewise persuaded me not to return there, because it was 
not certain that the Beli might not rob us. 

From 1.45 to 3.05 we halted and drew a map of the 
surrounding district (temperature: 36° C). The camels grazed 
on the luxuriant vegetation. The guide told us that the basin 
of al-Gaw is frequented by the rapacious bands of all the 


RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK 217 


tribes who wage war with the Beli. In former times the Beli 
suffered most from the Sammar, under Eben Rasid, whom 
they defeated several times in al-Gaw. But ten years previously 
Eben RaSsid sent the chief Eben Refade a valuable sword 
and ten camels. Eben Refade received the sword and had 
the ten camels loaded with twenty bags of the best rice and 
sent them back to Eben Rasid. Since that time there has 
been peace between the Sammar and the Beli. The Pilgrim 
Road forms the border between the two. When I asked the 
guide whether he knew of any ruins in the territory of the 
Beli, he said that to the south of the road leading from 
al-‘Ela’ to al-We&h he had seen some ruined settlements. 
North of this road and in the valley of al-Gizel there are 
the ruins of at-Tefihe, Balata, and ‘Awérez, the largest of 
which is Balata. The ruins of Dajdan are situated on the 
northern edge of the gardens of al-‘Ela’, and the guide said 
that the inhabitants of this oasis call them al-Hrajba.”* 


52 According to Gen., 10: 7, Dedan was related to Seba’ (Sheba), for like the latter he 
was a descendant of KGS (Kush) through Ra‘ama. Gen., 25: 3, makes Dedan also a descendant 
of Abraham by Keturah and calls him, as well as Seba’, a son of JokSan. 

From both sources it may be inferred that Dedan maintained close relations with the 
descendants of K&S residing in southwestern Arabia as well as with the descendants of 
Abraham by Ketura, who dwelt in the northwestern corner of Arabia proper. And such was 
actually the case, for the oasis of al-‘Ela’, which belonged to the Dedan, is situated in the 
northwestern corner of Arabia on the important transport route joining the northern country 
with the fertile southwestern part of the peninsula. 

_ That Dedan was in touch with the Sabaeans is proved by Ezek., 38: 13, where it is stated 
that Seba’ and Dedan bought spoil from the conquerors. Dedan hence was engaged in trade 
relations and according to Ezek., 27: 20, sold coverings for saddles to the people of Tyre. 

In Is., 21: 13—15, the trade caravans of Dedan are threatened with the same destruction 
which overtook those of Edom. Isaiah therefore calls upon them to spend the night in the 
plain, in the wood, and the inhabitants of the land of Téma are to bring water and bread 
to the thirsty because they are fleeing from the sharpened sword, the stretched bow, and the 
onslaught of war. — We may interpret this to mean that they are to hide in the thickets 
formed by the raza’, sidr, sejdl, talh, and by the bushes growing in certain se‘ibdm near the 
oasis of Tejma. 

A similar threat is repeated by Jer., 25: 23f., also against the inhabitants of Téma 
and Buz and all those with a shaven head, all the kings of Arabia, and all the kings of the 
Arabs dwelling in the wilderness. — 

Téma and Biz are two oases to the northeast of the oasis of Dedan (al-“Ela’) whose 
settlers likewise were actively engaged in trade. The inhabitants with a shaven head are the 
nomads hiring their camels for transport purposes to the settlers in the oases. The kings of 
Arabia are the chiefs of the separate oases; the kings of the Arabs dwelling in the wilderness 
are the chiefs of the Bedouins wandering with tents. 

Jer., 49: 8, threatens Edom and Téman with destruction, and therefore the inhabitants 
of Dedan are told to flee and hide in deep basins. 

Edom, and the territory of Tém4an in particular, were traversed by the most ereereant 
trade route from Dedan northwards. The enemy threatening Edom and Téman could also 
easily surprise and rob a Dedan trade caravan; for which reason the latter is told to flee 
and hide itself in the inaccessible basins. 

Ezek., 25: 13, likewise repeats that in Edom the people and the animals will be destroyed 
and that the land will be laid waste from Téman to Dedan. — Here Tém&an forms the northern 
border of Edom, while Dedan borders on Edom to the south. 

The oasis of Dedan with the distant surroundings were subject to the kings of south- 
western Arabia, who maintained there a political regent, known as kebir. Many inscriptions 
preserved at Dedan are dated from the rule of this regent. 

It seems that Jaktt was still acquainted with the ancient name of Dejdan, as it is 
always found in the Septuagint, for he recounts (Mu‘gam [Wistenfeld], Vol. 2, p. 639), 
that ad-Dajdan was once a fair city on the road leading from al-Belka’ to the Hegaz but 
that in his time it was ruined: 

He also asserts (ibid., Vol. 4, p. 53), that according to old sources Kurh is the 
market place of the valley of al- Kura’. He records the report that the people of °Ad, subject to 


218 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


At 5.10 we saw in the east the two volcanoes of ‘Ajr, 
which have in their midst the water Gebw ‘Ajr; farther on 
were Hlewwat, Arta, Abhak, the Amhar group with four 
voleanoes, and to the west of them Umm ‘Urf. At 5.35 one 
of our draft camels knelt down and would not get up again, 
so that we had to camp. The camels grazed near by, while, with 
the guide’s assistance I drew a sketch map of the territory 
of ar-Rha’ and al-“Awérez with which he was familiar”’ 
(temperature: 30° C). 





the Prophet Hid, were destroyed there. This report is probably associated with the rock 
tombs near ancient Dajdan (Dedan; the modern al-Hrajba near the oasis of al-“Ela’). The 
name Kurh superseded the old name ad-Dajdan, and even before Jakit’s time it had been 
replaced by the name of the neighboring settlement al-‘Ela’. 

Jakit, op. cit., Vol. 3, p. 709, states that al-‘Ela’ is a place belonging to the district of 
the valley of al-Kura’, situated between it and Syria. On his expedition to Tebik the Prophet 
Mohammed stayed at al-‘Ela’, and a mosque was constructed on the spot where he prayed. 

Abu-l-Fada’il, Mardsid (Juynboll), Vol. 2, p. 273, defines the position of the settle- 
ment of al-‘Ela’ much more precisely, saying that it is situated in the district of the valley 
of al-Kura’ beyond the region of the Tamtd, on the way to al-Medina, and accordingly to 
the south of al-Hegr. 

Ibn Battita (died 1877 A.D.) relates (Tuhfa [Defrémery and Sanguinetti], Vol. 1, 
pp. 260f.) that it is less than half a day’s journey from al-Heégr to al-‘Ela’. At the time 
of his visit (at the end of 1326 A.D.) al-‘Ela’ was a large and beautiful settlement with 
palm gardens and well water. The inhabitants kept the peace. In the settlement dwelt Christian 
traders from Syria, from whom the pilgrims, who spent four days there, bought various 
wares. Nobody didany harm to these Christian traders. 

According to Haggi Halfa, Gihadn numa’ (Constantinople, 1145 A.H.), p. 522, the 
settlement of al-‘Ela’ is situated a half day’s journey south of the region of the Tamitd and 
therefore the same distance south of al-Hegr, among the mountains, and it has vineyards and 
flowing water. The stronghold there was restored by Sultan Suleiman. ‘Isa Pasha, governor 
of Damascus, fortified this settlement in order to protect its inhabitants against the marauding 
Arabs, but he increased the tax on each date palm from one dirhem to forty, and refused 
to reduce it. 

Mehmed Edib, Mendzil (Constantinople, 1232 A.H.), p. 80, records that the flourishing 
settlement of al-‘Ela’ is situated nine hours from Medajen Saleh between two mountain 
ranges. This place also belongs to the region of the Tamtd. It is a settlement between 
mountains and possesses the advantages of flowing water, vineyards, and date palms. In it 
there is an abundance of sweetish oranges, and sweet and bitter lemons. Watermelons, 
cucumbers, and several other fruits also thrive there. Many acacias grow as far as Bijar 
Ranem. During the rule of Sultan Suleiman Khan a fortress was built at al-“Ela’, where 
the valley of MuSfek is situated. 





53 T identify the voleanic territory of ar-Rha’ and al-“Awérezg with Harrat an-Nar of 
the Arabic authors. 

Al-Hamdani, Sifa (Miiller), p. 180, says that al-Lasaf and Harrat an-Nar belong to 
the Beni Murra. 

Jakat, op. cit., Vol. 2, p. 252, following various sources, writes that in Harrat an-Nar 
were encamped the Gudam, Beli, Balkejn, and ‘Udra. Abu-l-Fath Nasr al-Iskandari mentions 
that Harrat an-Nar extends between the valley of al-Kura’ and Tejma and that it belonged 
to the territory of the Ratafan. At the time of Jaktt the “‘Aneze were already encamped in 
Harrat an-N&ar, which is several days’ march long. Borax was obtained there. — 

Nasr, who died in 1164 or 1165 A.D., locates Harrat an-Nar between the valley of al- 
Kura’ in the south and Tejma in the north. The center of the valley of al-Kura’ was only 
a very few kilometers to the south of al-‘Ela’, for this oasis, under the name of Kurh, 
formed its headquarters; the whole of the modern Harrat al-“Awérez and Harrat ar-Rha’ 
belonged to the voleanic territory of an-Nar. Nasr probably derived his information about 
the tribes from older sources, for the Ratafan had already migrated from Harrat an-Nar 
to the southeast in the seventh and eighth centuries. Only their clans, the Beni Murra and 
the Beni Fezara, were encamped in the northeastern part of Harrat an-Nar. In the south- 
western part dwelt the Beli, in the southeastern the Beni ‘Udra, in the northwestern the 
Gudam, and to the northern parts the Balkejn perhaps sometimes paid visits. At the time 
of Jakat — that is at the beginning of the thirteenth century — the Beni ‘Udra were driven 
by the ‘Aneze from the southeastern part of Harrat an-Nar. In this Harrat an-Nar some 
volcanoes were still active in the eighth century, as is shown by the poet ‘Antar, who refers 
to the smoke arising from the volcanic crater which was visible from the region of Hesma’. 

Abu-l-Feda’, Muhtasar (Adler), Vol. 4, p. 550, mentions that in 1256 or 1257 A.D. there 
was a volcanic eruption in the territory of al-Medina and at night its flames were visible 
a great distance off. 


RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK 219 


In the evening my camel got lost. We all searched for 
it, but in the darkness of the night its track could not be 
found. As there are numerous fahad and nimr in the voleanic 
region and the camel was exhausted, I was afraid that it 
might have become their prey, and I therefore listened to 
every sound. But I heard nothing unusual. Shortly before 
midnight a dark moving shape appeared to the east; it drew 
near and turned out to be the camel coming back to us. 


THROUGH HARRAT AL-“AWEREZ TO THE RAILWAY 


On Sunday, July 3, 1910, we let the camels out to graze 
before three o’clock in the morning. The animal belonging 
to our guide strayed away somewhere, so that it was 4.15 
before we could start (temperature: 17.5° C). The dark red 
eravel lacerated the soles of our poor beasts. At 4.40 the region 
opened out on all sides. In the north appeared the volcano 
of al-Hazra, to the northwest of it al-Hasnawen; on the eastern 
horizon rose the sharp peak of ad-Dabbe, near which the 
seib of Hasat al-Kanis begins; nearer to us was the huge 
voleano of Baktr, with the smaller volcano of al-Mtawwak 
to the northwest of it. On the right hand, to the south, we 
observed the two almost circular volcanoes of ‘Ajr, between 
which is the rain water well Gebw ‘Ajr; and to the north 
of them the volcano of Umm Arta, near which begins the 
seib of the same name. 

The road which we had followed hitherto led in a north- 
easterly direction to the station of al-Mu‘azzam, and, as we 
wished to reach the station of Dar al-Hamra’, we had to 
branch off eastward on rocky ground. The ground consists 
of hard sandstone, which the sun has baked to a dark brown 
color, and forms innumerable small basin-like hollows with 
sharp edges. At 6.30 we had to the north-northeast the low, 
rugged mountain range of Hlejlat abu Tarfa’, and we arrived 
at the uneven rocky tract between the volcanoes of al-Hmam”' 
and Umm al-Gerad. 

To the southeast of Umm al-Gerad are grouped the reddish 
hillocks of Abrak al-‘Asar. To the east are the hills of ‘Afejz 
al-Asmar and as-Swéwine, forming the watershed between 

*t According to Jaktat, Mu‘gam (Wistenfeld), Vol. 2, p. 469, Himan is the name of 
the mountains in the territory of the Kuda‘a on the road to Syria. — Our extinct volcanoes. 
of Hmam (n is frequently interchanged with m at the beginning and end of words) are 


situated by the road Darb al-Bakra leading from Wadi al-Kura’ through the former territory 
of the Kuda‘a. We may therefore identify them with the Himan mountains mentioned by Jakuat 


220 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Abu Gnéb, which runs almost due north, and al-Gaiba which 
extends to the south. To the west as-Swéwine adjoins the 
plain of MafareS ar-Ruzz, through which leads the Pilgrim 
Route as well as the railway line, and in which is also situated 
the station of Dar al-Hamra’.” 


To the east of Dar al-Hamra’ appear the limestone hills Raramil 
ar-Rwala, and to the north rise the slopes of Hibt at-Tematil, al-“Aféz, 
and Abu Hlejje. The Se%b of Abu Gnéb, beginning near as-Swéwine, 
is joined on the east by the united sewbdn of al-Hemmaza, Umm 
Arta, and al-Mséfre; farther on by al-Miswal; and near the station of 
al-Mu‘azzam by the se%b of al-Mekbel, which contains the water of al- 
‘Akejla. On the west, not far from the station of HaSm Sana‘, the seb 
of al-Genfid merges with Abu Gnéb. To the south of the fables shaped 
hills of as-Swéwine appears the crag of Sokb al-“Aguaz, through which 
the railway line passes. Below it, on the southeastern side of the seth 
of al-Gtiba, is the water of al-Akra‘. 5° 

Along the eastern side of the Se%b of al-Giba extends southward 
the oblong HasSm Marttim, near which, to the east, rise the flat hills 
of al-‘Arejf and Abu Taka. Above the latter towers the steep crest of 
as-Sicé with the well of the same name on the northwestern slope. To 
the south of these hills extends the basin of Ka&a* ab-al-‘Azam enclosed 
on the east by the rugged hills of al- Ganah, on the south by the elevation 
of Hlewijjet an-Naka,*’ and on the west by the volcanic region of al-Eséhed. 

Hlewijjet an-Naka is connected in the south with the hills of al- 
Mzelze, Umm Gerfan, Abu Hamata, Etleb, and al-Hwara, which enclose 
the basin Hor al-Hamar. From this basin there rises to the west the 
mesa of az-Ziblijjat, upon which are grouped the volcanoes of al-Eséhed. 
The former town of al-Hegr, now only a four-cornered stronghold and 
station, is situated in the lower half of the basin Hor al-Hamar, where good 
water may be obtained on all sides by digging to a depth of eight or 
ten meters. In some of the hollows the water rises nearly to the sur- 
face, but it is brackish and hence not good. There are said to be very 
many old wells there, but they are entirely or partly clogged up. If they 
were cleaned out, the vicinity of the stronghold could be transformed 
into a large oasis, for the water never dries up there. 


55 Mehmed Edib, Menazil (Constantinople, 1232 A.H.), pp. 76f., asserts that this 
station is called not only Dar al-Hamra’ but also MafareS ar-Ruzz (not MarariS az-Zir as 
printed), Akra‘* (not Akrah as printed), Sikk al-“Agtz, Makbara, and Dar al-Hagar. It is 
eighteen hours distant from al-Mu‘azzam. In the year 1167 A.H. (1753—1754 A.D.) Othman 
Pasha built a stronghold there and in the following year a reservoir. The pilgrims collect 
small stones there, which they place in signet rings. The surrounding neighborhood is rocky. 
Beyond this station the pilgrims bound south turn off to the east and descend through 
a ravine into a sandy plain, on the right of which are situated the hills of at-Taf, an-Nuttak, 
Mazham, Sanwa’, and Mabrak an-Naka. It was at Mabrak an-Naka that the camel of the 
Prophet Saleh appeared. It came forth from the rock of Katibe and disappeared in the crag 
of an isolated table-shaped hill (kara). The pilgrims ride around this hill as rapidly as possible 
amid shouting, uproar, and the firing of pistols, in order that their camels may not hear the 
voice of the Prophet’s camel, for, if they hear it, they sink down on their knees and cannot get 
up again. 

56 Hagsi Halfa, Gihdn numa (Constantinople, 1145 A. H.), p. 521, writes that 
MafareS ar-Ruzz (thus, instead of the printed MarariS az-Zir) is also called Akra‘ and 
lies a half day’s_ journey from al-Hegr near Gebel at-Tak, where Saleh’s camel was slain at 
al-Mazham. — Gebel at-Tak is the modern Abu Taka. 


57 Al-Bekri, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), p. 466, states that in the territory of the Tamiad 
is to be seen the isolated table-shaped hill of Kebaba, referred to in the narrative concerning 
the camel of the Prophet Saleh. — This is probably the modern Hlewijjet an-Naka. 


RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK > _ 221 


The railway line and the Pilgrim Route lead through the se%b of 
al-Musab from the crag Sokb al-‘Agtz and the station of al-Mutalla‘ 
along the western slope of Hasm Marttm, where the station of Bwézre 
is situated in the basin of al-Gtiba. Below it on the west the se%b is 
joined by the double se%b of as-Sadr and as-Srajjed and a little farther 
on by the se%b of al-Hawza, which begins under the name of al-Mizze 
near the voleano of Zob‘an and is joined on the right by the seiban 
of ‘Alija and al-Mnakka. 

At eight o’clock we crossed the large road, Darb al- 
Bakra — this being the name of the southern part of the 
road, Darb al-MSejtijje, which connects Syria with al-Medina. 
The Bedouins prefer to take this route rather than the Pil- 
grim Road. It leads from the fountain of al-Mratijje to the 
waters of ad-Dimez, Gertiima, al-Rzej, al-Harim, Radir al- 
Hsan, al-“ESze, and farther to the southeast. After a while, 
on the dark red gravel, we observed pink blood stains, 
a mournful sign that the soles of our camels were already 
lacerated and bleeding. The camel bearing the water bags 
was bleeding from both hind feet and my camel from its 
left forefoot. If the animal lost a drop of blood at every 
step, how long would it hold out on this journey ? We could 
not reach al-Hegr in less than three days, but neither in 
al-Hegr nor in the surrounding district were any Bedouins 
encamped, from whom we could have bought fresh animals, 
and it was not possible to undertake a new journey with our 
exhausted and wounded camels. We had not intended to work 
at Medajen Saleh (al-Hegr), our wish being to proceed west- 
ward; and at Medajen Saleh there were Turkish gendarmes, 
whom I should have preferred to avoid. They had certainly 
been informed of the way in which we had been treated by 
the mudir at Tebtk and possibly the mudir had received 
replies to his telegraphic enquiries, replies which were not 
favorable to us. Our guide told me that he could not go with 
us along the railway except as far as the station of Dar 
al-Hamra’, which belonged half to the Fukara’ and half to 
the Beli; al-Hegr belonged only to the Fukara’, and the 
Fukara’ were the enemies of his clan. I doubted whether 
we should find a reliable guide at Dar al-Hamra’, because 
both the Fukara’ and the Ajde had departed from there for 
fear of the attacks of Eben Rasid. 

At nine o’clock our camels knelt down; when we forcibly 
urged them to get up and led them to good pasturage, they 
knelt down again. The heat was unbearable and the air full 


222 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


of dense sandy clouds. Rif‘at and Taman complained that 
their eyes were hurting them and that they were physi- 
cally worn out. Accordingly I decided that we would not go 
either to al-Hegr or to Dar al-Hamra’ but turn direct to the 
station of al-Mu‘azzam. I hoped that somewhere to the north 
of this station I should find a camp of the Ajde or the 
Fukara’, where we could exchange our camels, and that after 
recuperating we could proceed either to the south or to the 
east. My companions were in full accord with this plan. 

Mounting a high rock not far away, we drew a sketch 
map of the surrounding district. 


To the southeast could be seen the black hills of Abrak al-‘Asar, 
partly covered with sand. From them descend the se‘“bdn of as-Sadr and 
as-Srajjed in a southeasterly direction. To the east loomed _up the black 
rocks of “Afejz al-Asmar, penetrated by the Sse‘tb of al-Gentd, which 
joins the ge%b of Abu Gnéb to the south of the station of HaSm Sana‘. 
To the northeast, through a black undulating plain, extended the gray 
strip of the se%b of al-“Ess, to the north the long se%b of al-Haka. This 
Seib begins by Mount Najef, under the name of Mdejsis, and on the 
right is joined by the se%b of al-Hmejjete, descending from the volcano 
of al-Hmam; on the left by al-Mgejnin, al-Hasnawén, and al-Mutawwak. 
Al-Haka also merges into the ge%b of Abu Gnéb.°8 

From the elevation of ar-Rhajje descends the se%b of al-M4alha, 
which, after joining the sevban of Radir al-Hsan, Rwésde, and al-Lwij, 
merges into the se%tb of Ammu Weézrat between Hala’ umm “Awader 
and Dir’. The latter se%b starts from the volcanoes of al-Hasnawén and 
Hlej as-Semeh and forms the Se%b of ad-Dir‘, which terminates by the 
station of al-Mu‘azzam. To the east and northeast appeared the gray 
Se%b of al-Msahh which is traversed by the Pilgrim Road and the rail- 
way. Behind it, to the east, rise gray, table-shaped hills, in which can 
be clearly seen the gap formed by the se%b of al-Hammaza, which on 
the right is joined by the Se‘ibdn of Umm Arta and al-Mséfre and merges 
into the se%b of Abu Gnéb. 


At 11.10 we turned off to the north (temperature: 33.5° C). 
After a short time we observed far away on the horizon 
Mount al-Farwal and nearer to us HaSm Hibt at-Tematil 
with the railway station of HaSm Sana‘. At first we rode 
through a bare plain covered with coarse gravel. After 12.45 
we reached deep, narrow ravines, round which it became 
necessary to make a detour. The sides of the ravines are 
twenty to one hundred meters high and so steep that it is 
impossible to crawl along them. The beds are covered with 

 Jakat, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 2, p. 187, refers to the valley of al-Haka in the 
territory of the Beni ‘Udra and recalls the battle which once raged there. — As our Se%b 


of al-Haka traverses the former territory of the Beni ‘Udra, we may identify it with the 
valley of al-Haka mentioned by Jaktat. 


RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK — 223 


large, rugged boulders, often ten to twenty meters high. After 
abundant cloud-bursts, foaming cataracts are formed in these 
beds. Nowhere did we see any water, nor any vegetation 
except falh trees and rimt bushes. 

At 1.80 we had the voleano of Baktr on our left, and 
at 1.52 to the northeast we saw the black volcano of Salim 
standing out conspicuously from its gray surroundings; to the 
west of it were the elevations of Abu Tor (or Towr) and to the 
northwest the eminence of ar-Rmémijje. With difficulty we 
drove the camels forward, while we ourselves all went on foot. 
Finally, at 3.46, we entered the se%b of al-“ESS, the bed of 
which is covered with sand, so that our camels were able to 
get along more easily. In the sand we observed numerous 
traces of rodents, wabrdan, hiding on the rocky slopes. We 
should have liked to have halted, but nowhere could we find 
any pasturage. At last, at 4.40 (temperature: 36° C), we 
reached some blossoming talh trees, on the blossoms and 
shoots of which our hungry animals grazed until 6.52. 

The Se%tb of al--ESS gradually opens out into a gray, 
undulating plain connected with the lowland of al-Msahh 
through which wind the railway and the Pilgrim Road. 

At 7.08 we rode around some ruined huts once inhabited 
by workmen engaged upon the construction of the railway. 
Then, on the right, could be seen the flat elevation Matent 
al-Habwa extending from south to north. On the eastern 
spur of the elevations of Hlejlat abu Tarfa we perceived the 
glow of a small fire. As this region is continually frequented 
by marauding bands and we had heard of the warlike ex- 
pedition of the Ajde and Fukara’, we were afraid that we 
might be attacked. With loaded rifles we hastened northward. 
The animals, who had scarcely crawled during the night, 
suddenly started off at a swift and regular trot. Listening 
carefully to every movement and sound, we rode round the 
fire, reached the railway, and encamped in a dense talh 
thicket in the channel of al-Haka at 8.50. Throughout all this 
time the camels made no noise whatever. Amid deep silence 
we unloaded our baggage, arranged the beasts in a circle, lay 
down around them, and kept watch all night, not knowing 
whether we had been observed. 


224 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


THE SE‘IB OF AL-HAKA TO AL-HAMIS 


On=Monday July tae SO eat 3.532 Al OM awemlelpetle 
channel of al-Haka — here crossed by the railway on an 
embankment of no great height although it is provided with 
eighty culverts. To the southwest rose the isolated hill 
Twejjel Sa‘id, near which is the well of the same name. 
On the east extend the low hills of al-Rwérat, from which 
proceeds the se%b of al-Miswal. This se%b merges into the 
short se%ib of al-Mekbel by the station of al-Mu‘azzam and 
joins the se%tb of Abu Hlejje. It thus forms a broad valley 
covered with coarse gravel, gradually narrowing towards the 
north. On the east it is bordered by the elevation of al- 
Maradd, on the west by the rocky slope of as-Srejf, so that 
the Se%b is only about four hundred meters broad. Before it 
narrows in this way, it is joined by the broad Se%b of ad-Dir“. 
On the southeastern spur of aS-Srejf is a large rain water 
pond, or habra’, the north and east sides of which are en- 
closed by a long, artificial, stone wall, in order that more 
water may be held; but this wall is now broken down in 
places. The whole pond is fringed by a broad strip of luxu- 
riant vegetation. On its northwestern edge and on the south- 
western foot of aS-Srejf stands the fortress of al-Mu‘azzam, 
in which three gendarmes reside. At every corner the fortress 
has circular projecting towers connected with the rectangular 
wall only at the angles. Around the courtyard are constructed 
stables, storerooms, and dwellings, and in the center a well 
is hollowed out. A few paces farther to the north there is 
a tiny house belonging at the time of my visit to the manager 
of the Royal Telegraph Office. Alongside the railway there 
were two telegraph lines, one being royal property, the other 
belonging to the railway administration.” 

The railway station of al-Mu‘azzam is situated to the 
east of the rain pond at the foot of al-Maradd. In front of 
the railway station there is a large well, a reservoir, and 


°° Hagsi Halfa, Gihdn numa’ (Constantinople, 1145 A. H.), p. 523, writes that al- 
Malek al-Mu‘azzam ‘Isa had a reservoir for rain water built at this place known as Birket 
al-Mu‘azzam. 

Mehmed Edib, Mendzil (Constantinople, 1232 A.H.), p. 76, calls this station Birket 
al-Mu‘azzam or Wadi al-Asad and says that it is seventeen hours distant from al-Uhajder. 
During abundant rains there are torrents flowing near it. The reservoir was built in the 
year 600 A. H. (1208—1204 A.D.) by al-Malek al-Mu‘azzam ‘Isa of the Beni Ajjab. It is three 
thousand cubits square, but at the end of the seventeenth century it was broken up. If it 
contains no rain water, the pilgrims obtain their supplies at al-Uhajder. The stronghold of 
Birket al-Mu‘azzam is called Abu Gnejb. In the surrounding neighborhood grow many 
acacias (talh). 


RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK 225 


a small barrack for soldiers, where fifteen men were quartered. 
Halting at 5.48 in front of the railway station, we wished 
to water our camels, but the well was locked up, the station 
master was asleep, and none of the soldiers ventured to go 
and wake him. The soldiers filled one of our bags from their 
own water supply, and at 6.10 we left (temperature: 32° C). 

Halil urged me to give the guide only a third of his 
wages; otherwise, he said, he would drive him away before 
he received anything. The reason, he stated, was that the 
Beli had extorted large gifts from us and had ill-treated us 
and that he would therefore like to avenge himself on one 
of them. Together with Serif he was preparing to knock 
the guide about, but I would not permit them to harm him 
in word or deed, and I paid him all his wages. He at once 
disappeared among the crags to the west, afraid that after 
our departure the soldiers or the gendarmes would rob him. 
I should have liked to proceed to some encampment of the 
Ajde or the Fukara’, but nobody at al-Mu‘azzam knew for 
certain where they were encamped. I was told that all their 
clans had gone at first northward but that some had now 
joined the Mwahib and had fled to the volcanic territory 
west of Medajen Saleh. The Weld Slejman, with whom I was 
likewise acquainted, were encamped in the volcanic territory 
extending to the south of al-Bird. 

As our camels were so tired that they could not have 
endured the journey to the southern camps, I proposed that 
we should proceed to the north, hoping soon to discover 
where the clans were encamped who had departed in that 
direction. 

We had not gone one kilometer from al-Mu‘azzam, when 
we were overtaken by a non-commissioned officer of the 
gendarmes, who handed Halil a written order to return with 
me immediately to Tebtk. If I refused to obey or wished 
to branch off to the right or left of the Pilgrim Road, he 
was to inform me and my native guide that the Government 
would no longer protect me and would assume no further 
responsibility for the safety of my life or property. Things 
had thus turned out as I had expected. I could go where 
I liked, but I should have had no protector, and anybody 
could have robbed or killed me. The marauding tribes en- 
camped along the railway would certainly have made away 
with us all, if they had found out that the Government was 


226 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


no longer protecting me; and it was not possible for me to 
get from Turkish territory to the great tribes of the Weld 
Slejman or the Sammar. Accordingly, there was nothing left 
for us but to make our way to Tebdk. 

At 6.55 our camels found a pasture of no great size in 
the valley of Ummu Rmam, and we remained there until 
nine o’clock. The valley is covered with a deep layer of sand, 
in which talh, rimt, and ‘arfeg grow. 

On the east Wadi Ummu Rmam, through which the Pilgrim Route 
passes, is joined by the ravine of al-Mkébel, separated by the ridge of 
al-Mzéb‘e from the seth Ammu ‘Awader. Beyond this se%tb Wadi Ummu 
Rmam is joined by al-Msas, Ammu Zrtb, Rdéhat as-Sféra, Dbejjeb al- 
Msa’, Salam, Umm Hanzal, al-Mezajin, Abu Sdéra, al-Mhejr, al-Mohr, 
ar-Rwéha, al-Fajde, Ammu Rzejje, al-Mhejdi, Ammu Tu‘ts, Erdéht ‘Aneze, 
Ammu Kanatel, and by Umm Safa’, which descends from the foot of the 
al-Razwan slope at the water Temilt at-Tras; still farther it is joined 
by al-Béza and Umm Tina. On the left near the Pilgrim Road terminate 
the sewbdan of ar-Radi; Umm Hawajez; Wudej Selit, with al-Mutallak, 
near which rises the volcano of at-Torra; al-Mu‘akkar, which is joined 
on the right by the sevban of Umm Hasim and Umm Hanzal, and on 
the left by al-Habra and Abu Nmar. Farther down, on the left, end 
the se7bdn of Wudej al-Kahwa; as-Sinfe, near which is situated the hill 
of al-Kdfd; al-Fwazle; ‘Agirt al-Helw; al-Hamas, with ar-Radha and Abu 
Tobok; al-Mdejsis; al-Hawwar; and finally Maksadet al-Kasja’ and 
Maksadet ad-Dunja’. Al-Hawwar rises as Tel‘et az-Zih to the north of 
the hills of Nezth and is joined on the right by the se7bdn of al-Mzérid 
and Umm Zamran and on the left by Ummu Rzim, Sbejhuwat, Zaram, 
and Ammu Rtejmat. 

Proceeding through Wadi Ummu Rman to the northwest, 
we passed by the two dark hills of al-Katawén, between 
which and the ridge of Ammu-z-Zrtb the valley of Ummu 
Rmam terminates. At 10.02 we again entered a broad valley, 
known as ar-Rwéha, and from eleven to 11.40 the camels 
grazed here. At 11.50 we reached the end of this valley; it 
becomes a ravine, its bed being wedged between the steep 
slopes of Ammu Zrub and Umm Hawajez. We there observed 
some railway sleepers which had been carried away by the 
water. 

The railway line is very superficially constructed: the 
banks are almost vertical, so that the stones which are heaped 
up gradually fall out from under the sleepers and holes are 
formed everywhere in the embankments. The culverts built 
in the embankments for letting the rain water flow off from 
one side to the other are very narrow and low, in consequence 
of which the sand clogs them up and they continually have 


RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK 227 


to be cleaned out by the soldiers. If a rainstorm sweeps to 
the southwest and the foaming water rushes down, it fills 
the culverts with a deposit, comes to a standstill, breaks 
through the embankment, and carries away the sleepers. 
This had happened the previous winter, and the sleepers 
were still lying in the river bed. At 12.08 P. M. and again at 
12.15 we saw on our right a number of culverts which were 
completely clogged up with sand. 

The valley through which we proceeded is called Han- 
zira. It is of such a rugged nature that the construction 
of the railway line there demanded considerable labor. At 
12.23 we rode past some ruined culverts, at 12.35 past a 
bridge whose pillars were entirely covered up with a deposit 
of stone and sand; at 12.40 we saw a part of the railway 
embankment in ruins. At one o’clock we arrived at a bridge 
which had recently been built afresh but had already been 
damaged again by water. To the right Halil pointed out two 
large boulders saying that they were two petrified pigs. Why 
these wretched animals had been changed into rocky boulders 
here in the inhospitable desert, neither he nor the shepherd 
Mutallek could say, although the latter hailed from Tejma 
and had often accompanied caravans from al-Mu‘azzam to 
Tebuk. 

At 1.08 we passed the small railway station of Makass 
al-As‘ad. To the east-northeast of the station in the valley is 
situated a large boulder known as Hagar al-Bint. A maiden 
(bint al-bejt) of the Swéfle clan had been compelled by her 
father to marry an old man. On the eve of the wedding day 
she had escaped from the tent and had sat down on this 
boulder, saying: ‘Never will I marry that old man full of 
wrinkles, but you, O stone, shall become my husband.” And 
by a miracle her wish was fulfilled. Her father, who was 
told of her escape, went to look for her and found her lying 
on this stone. Noticing some blood, he searched in the sand 
for the tracks of a man, but found no tracks except those 
of his daughter. So awed was he by this portent that he 
did not compel his daughter to return to the old man’s tent 
but allowed her to marry the man she loved. Since then the 
girls of the Swéfle, if they have to marry a man whom they 
do not like, threaten to make a journey to Hagar al-Bint. 

At 1.25 we observed in the railway embankment a wash- 
out a few meters in length, another proof of the hasty 


228 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


construction of the line. To the west, above the low hills, 
projected the cone of al-Kdtd. The valley grew narrower and 
narrower, and at two o’clock we reached a defile enclosed on 
both sides by high lava crags. In the dry river bed was the 
large natural hollow of Lussan. At 2.30 we crossed the se%b 
of al-Fawazle and reached a broad basin covered with sand 
and a growth of talh trees, where we rested from 2.38 to 
5.08. To the west the se%b is bordered by the dark walls of 
al-Kdtd; to the east by the rocks of Lussan, upon which 
rests a stratum of lava. At 5.88 the embankment was again 
blocked up, and at 5.42 we saw that it was constructed only 
of sand and clay and that it dropped off, so that the sleepers 
projected freely on both sides. At six o’clock we reached the 
broad valley of Genajen al-Kazi, where an Italian railway 
workman is buried under a falh tree. Halil drew my attention 
to the fact that the talh, rimt, and ‘awsegy growing in Ge- 
najen al-Kazi have much larger leaves and needles than 
those growing elsewhere. He said that they are not talh, 
rimt, and ‘awseg but in reality plum trees, almond trees, 
and orange trees; but I saw no difference between the 
shrubs here and those growing anywhere else. 

On our right yawned the seiban of Abu Sdéra and al- 
Mhejr. Near the se%b of Abu Sdéra looms the huge dark 
hill Burka Sdéra, half-covered with whitish sand.*° 

At 6.15 to the west of the embankment we saw a large 
stretch of low-lying land covered with yellow clay, a sign 
that the culverts were clogged up and that the rain water 
had formed a pool around the embankment. At 6.26 we passed 
by the embankment, here constructed only of clay and pro- 
tected against storms by means of deep trenches. At 6.45 
we crossed the elevation of Srejf at-Ta‘am and rode into the 
valley of al-Ma‘w. Before 8.30 we saw in front of us the 
light of the station of al-Hamis, situated opposite the se7ib 
of al-Hamas. The soldiers guarding the various stations of 
the Hegaz railway are afraid of the Bedouins, and they im- 


60 I identify it with Burka Sader, which is referred to by the poet Nabira (Diwdn, 
[Derenbourg], p. 292). The Beni Hunn of the Beni ‘Udra tribe opposed the supremacy of 
the Ghassanian (Rassan) tribe. Near al-Hegr they attacked some members of the Tajj tribe, 
to whom the water of Buzaha belonged. No‘man, the brother of ‘Amr, made an expedition 
against them, and Nabira met him near Burka Sader. — No‘man, the brother of ‘Amr, was the 
head chief of the Rassin tribe about 604 A. D. (see Musil, Kusejr ‘Amra, Vol. 1, p. 188). 
The Beni “‘Udra were encamped to the south of the modern station of al-Mu‘azzam, and it 
is therefore very probable that No‘man marched with his army along the great transport 
route and rested in Genajen al-Kazi, where there was plenty of fuel and in the surrounding 
neighborhood an abundance of pasture for the camels. The poet an-Nabira may have met 
him near our hill of Burka Sdéra. 


RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK = 229 


mediately fire at anybody who comes near them. Apprehensive 
lest they might begin shooting at us, I therefore halted and 
sent Halil on in front. He kept on calling in the Kurdish 
language for a soldier whom he knew, and, when the latter 
appeared and he had told him who we were, we were able 
to ride on. At 8.40 we encamped by the side of the station. 
The officials and soldiers asked us how we were and invited 
us to take part in their amusement. They were exhilarated 
with tea and ‘arak brandy and were dancing and singing. Halil 
and Serif joined them, but the rest of us lay down beside 
our camels, for we were tired and needed rest. 


AL-HAMIS TO HSEM BIRK 


On Tuesday, July 5, 1910, we were in our saddles again 
at 4.02 A.M. At 4.20 we mounted a rise of no great height 
and ten minutes later were enjoying a beautiful view: in 
front of us wound the sev%b of al-Hawwar bordered to the 
north by dark heights; to the northeast appeared the low 
cones of Brék al-Mhamli; to the north the cones of al-MSsérif 
stood out, while in the east hovered the bluish slopes of al- 
Razwan and al-Edére®. From 5.15 to 6.06 our camels grazed 
on fresh arta in the se%b of al-Mdejsis. At 6.38 we crossed 
the sevban of al-Hawwar and Ammu Rtejmat; at 7.16 Mak- 
sadet al-Kasja’; at 7.52 Maksadet ad-Dunja’, where we were 
overtaken by a member of the Huzara clan of the Beni ‘Atijje, 
who had been appointed gendarme at al-Ahzar. He rode with 
us to his post and described the whole of the surrounding 
district. 

At 8.34 we reached the reservoir of the station of al- 
Ahzar. The station is built on the right-hand side of the 
valley of the same name and is a rectangular stone strong- 
hold without towers. On the north and east are six deep res- 
ervoirs, the water for which used to be obtained from a 
well about ten meters deep and more than two meters broad, 
hollowed out in the courtyard of the stronghold. The water 
is now conducted into a large cistern excavated in the rocky 
southern slope, whence it is conveyed to the railway water 
tower constructed by the side of the embankment.*! 

61 According to Ibn His&ém, Sira (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 1, Part 2, p. 905, and al-Bekri, 
Mu‘gam (Wistenfeld), p. 802, Abu Ruhm KultGm ibn Husejn al-Rifari accompanied the 
Prophet Mohammed on his expedition to Tebauk. When during the night they reached al-Ahdar, 


he fell asleep and his camel collided with the camel of the Prophet; whereupon the latter 
woke him up telling him to mind what he was about. 


230 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Having watered our camels, at 9.20 we rode on, because 
we found no pasture in the neighborhood. About four kilo- 
meters to the west, in the river bed of al-Ahzar, are several 
springs, near which it is said that the ruins of small ancient 
buildings and garden walls may be seen. Having discovered 
pasture, we allowed the camels to rest from 9.45 to 11.35, 
while Taman and I mounted the western slope and drew a 
sketch of the surrounding district. On our return we were 
informed by Serif that the camel carrying the water would 
not graze any more and that it remained kneeling. Two other 
animals did the same. A gendarme who came to us from al- 
Ahzar explained that they had received orders to search for 
me and to compel me to return to Tebtk. It was fortunate 
for us that in consequence of the threatened raid by the 
Ajde against the Beni ‘Atijje, none of the latter had recently 
come to the fortress of al-Ahzar or discovered that the gen- 
darmes were to search for me. This news would have spread 
throughout the camps of the Beni ‘Atijje, who would certainly 
have robbed us before we could get away from their territory. 

At 11.50 we heard a piercing shout and immediately 
afterwards the sound of a shot. On the western foot of the 





Al-Bekri, op. cit., p. 79, states that al-Ahdar is four days’ march distant from Tebuk 
and contains a mosque of the Prophet. — As it is not quite seventy kilometers from Tebtk 
to al-Ahzar, the statement of al-Bekri is not correct. 

Jaktt, Mu'gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 1, p. 164, writes that the pilgrims’ halting place 
of al-Ahdar is situated near Tebk in the direction of the valley of al-Kura’ and that in 
the mosque there a spot is pointed out upon which the Prophet prayed on his expedition 
to Tebtk. 

According to Hagsi Halfa, Gihédn numa’ (Constantinople, 1145 A. H.), p. 523, the 
well and stronghold of al-Uhajder were constructed at the beginning of the reign of Sultan 
Suleiman under the supervision of the Syrian Governor Mustapha Pasha, the building having 
been carried out by Turban ibn Farrag, the chief of the Syrian al-Hareta. There were twenty 
soldiers from Damascus guarding this important and frequently visited station among the 
mountains between Damascus and Mecea. It was harassed by the unruly tribes of the Beni 
Lam and Beni ‘Okba. They clogged up the well and emptied the three reservoirs in front 
of the gateway. It was likewise the custom of the Beni Lam to barricade with boulders the 
pass Nakb al-Uhajder, not far off. 

According to Mehmed Edib, Mendzil (Constantinople, 1232 A.H.), pp. 75 f., the station 
of al-Uhajder is also known as al-Hajdar. It is twelve hours distant from Morajer, is one 
of the Prophet’s camps, and contains a mosque. During the reign of Suleiman Khan a strong- 
hold and five reservoirs were built there. In the stronghold is a large well, from which 
is obtained water with which the reservoirs are filled. The water from this well is so very 
pleasant to the taste that many pilgrims carry it several halting places farther on. There 
is a tradition that Job washed in it, during which process the worms fell from his body and 
were turned to stone, so that it was possible to collect them. The Prophet Hidr is reputed 
to have dwelt there. In the stronghold is the grave of Hajdar Baba, to which pilgrimages are 
made. There are twenty Syrian soldiers guarding the fortress, which was built during the reign 
of the above-mentioned Sultan in 9388 A.H. (1531-1532 A. D.) by Turban ibn Farrag, the 
Prince of the Arabs al-Hareta, at the command of the Syrian Governor Mustapha Pasha 
and the Sultan already named, because the Beni Lam rebelled against the soldiers and clogged 
up the well. Opposite the stronghold rises a tower, and on all four sides there are high 
mountains. Part of the region is stony, part flat and sandy. The pass Nakb al-Uhajder (not 
takab, as printed) is situated here. The water carriers near it give ‘‘sherbet’’? (lemonade) to 
the pilgrims. The tribes of the Beni Lam encamp here and often barricade this pass. The 
station of al-Uhajder is situated half-way between Damascus and Mecca the Sublime. In 
the region from which Birket al-Mu‘azzame may be reached, is situated the spot well known 
as the Gardens of the Kadi. Beyond the defile of al-Uhajder there opens out an extensive plain, 
on which may be seen here and there snow-white sand drifts. 


RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK 231 


slope we perceived a Turkish soldier, who was aiming at us 
and shouting at the top of his voice. Soon after that we saw 
about twenty soldiers who had been detailed to repair the 
embankment and were resting in the culverts. Disturbed by 
the shout and the sound of firing, they had seized their arms, 
posted themselves behind the embankment, and were aiming 
at us. We halted and sent Serif to them. As they saw that 
he was on foot and without firearms, they allowed him to 
approach them and he told them who we were and where 
we were going. We were then able to ride on. At twelve 
o’clock we had the railway station of al-Ahzar on our left 
hand. On a knoll situated on the eastern slope to the left 
of the setb of an-Naka we perceived a dummy soldier made 
of a pole and some tattered clothing. This scarecrow was 
hidden behind a large pile of stones and was looking toward 
the south. 

At the station of al-Ahzar the broad basin terminates, 
for the valley swings off nearly due north and between the 
rocks of Brék al-Mhamli becomes so narrow that during the 
time of rain it is impossible to pass through it. The Pilgrim 
Road therefore leads through the gap an-Nkejb on to the 
western upland and then along it farther to the north, while 
the railway winds through the Se%b. Both the engineers 
and the workmen had considerable labor before they succeeded 
in constructing a railway in these places. The crags consist 
of small stones, hard and soft, which are cross-bedded in 
narrow layers. The gap of an-Nkejb is in places scarcely 
three meters broad and is enclosed on the right and left by 
high rocky walls; in it the Bedouins are fond of lying in 
wait for the caravans, which they rush upon and rob. The 
Bedouins have also several times damaged the railway em- 
bankment and the track. The railway stations here are there- 
fore placed much closer together and are provided with strong 
garrisons. 

At one o’clock to the east we saw the station of al-Mustabra, 
in a district more forlorn and barren than any other I have 
seen in the Orient. Around the station are nothing but bare 
rugged rocks, gray or brown parched slopes, and above them 
a narrow, gray strip of sky. At 1.80 we crossed the se%b 
of al-Worob, which joins with the ravine of al-Mustabra and 
terminates in the Se%b of al-Habbini. At 2.25 we had a delight- 
ful view: on the left to the southwest, immediately before 


132 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


us, extended the hills of Zahr al-Mohr; behind them could 
be seen many separate mesas, buttes, and cones of the 
an-Na‘ajem, an-Nimrijjat, an-Na‘ame, and Gdejdilat ranges, 
all of which are overtopped far to the southwest by the 
mutilated cone of al-Watar and the huge pink range of Sejban. 
To the northwest appeared the bare plateaus of HSém Birk 
and al-Mowreda with steep black slopes covered with sand 
on the southeastern side. To the east of them and to the 
north of us we saw Umm Zambth and Krenat al-Razal, a 
confusion of diverse crags resembling a petrified stormy 
sea. Behind them to the northwest was an interminable 
plain bordered on the horizon by the peak of al-Mambar, an 
indication of the proximity of Tebtk. At 3.08 we reached 
the station of Zahr al-Hagg, which is constructed in a rocky 
basin.* | 

From the station of al-Ahzar onward we did not find 
a single plant. We were now able to ride on two of the 
camels only, as all the rest were bleeding from their feet. 
Serif, Halil, and Mutallek, who for two days had gone entirely 
on foot, were complaining of weariness and wanted to rest, 
but this was not possible, because there was no pasturage 
for the camels. At 4.10 we entered the plain of al-Etéli, 
covered with coarse gravel, enclosed to the west by the steep 
spurs of Hsem Birk, al-Mowreda, Ammu Gu‘ejb, ‘ASéra, and 
extending eastward as far as the slopes of az-Zufejjer. At 
4.50, in a shallow gully, we found a strip of soil covered 
with a growth of nasi, on which our camels grazed until 6.52. 
Our cameleer complained that he was dying of fatigue; he 
lay down by the fire, and Taman and I had to guard the 
camels while at the same time we drew a sketch of the 
surrounding district. We could not spend the night at the place 
where we had prepared our supper, because the smoke and 
flame of our fire could be seen from afar. At 7.55 we traversed 
an undulating plain to the railway station of HsSém Birk 
and there we encamped. 


62 Mehmed Edib, Mendzil (Constantinople, 1232 A. H.), pp. 74 f., calls Zahr al-Hagg 
Morajer al-Kalenderijje, ‘Akabat Hajdar, Dar al-Radir, and al-Birke and says that it is 
situated thirteen hours from ‘Asi Hurma or Tebak. Othman Pasha set up a stronghold and 
a reservoir there, but, as there is no spring, water is often conveyed thither under mili- 
tary escort. In the neighborhood there are numerous caves. The hills are black as if covered 
with coal. At a distance of three hours’ journey before the station of al-Uhajder is reached 
from the north there is a defile through which only two camels can proceed side by side. 
The soldiers surround this defile and guard it, and the Pasha, the leader of the pilgrims, 
sits under a sunshade and watches the pilgrims pass by. On the road can be seen small, thin, 
oval, black and white stones, which the people say are the petrified worms that fell from 
the body of Job. 


RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK 233 


HSEM BIRK TO TEBUK 


On Wednesday, July 6, 1910, we started off at 3.17 A. M. 
and from 4.16 to 5.22 halted in the river bed of al-Rzej, 
where the camels grazed on nasi. To the northwest in the 
rays of the rising sun the slopes of the mesa of ‘ASéra 
glistened before us, red below and white above and capped 
with lava. Far to the north the horizon was enclosed by the 
tablelands of Sarora’, while to the east appeared the heights 
of al-Razwan and al-Lemleme only slightly higher than the 
elevations to the west. From 7.00 to 7.30 we again rested, 
because our camels could not proceed. Five animals were 
bleeding from the feet, the worst of them being the camel 
carrying our water. At 7.53 we crossed the broad valley 
of al-Etel which was covered with a dense growth of tarfa. 
The railway crosses the valley near a station of the same 
name by means of a bridge that has frequently been broken 
down and rebuilt. If a considerable quantity of rain were to 
fall in the vicinity of the mountains of Sejban and ad-Dahahir, 
the water would certainly carry away the whole of this bridge 
and with it also a great part of the railway line, which 
was very rapidly constructed in the plain. Beyond the bridge 
we observed the tracks of about fifty camel riders who had 
passed that way the previous night. They had ridden from 
the north and branched off to the south-southeast and 
were certainly a troop of raiders. We were not very much 
concerned about them, however. All my companions were 
complaining of fatigue and fever, but the camels hurried 
forward as if they knew that rest was awaiting them in 
Tebuk, near at hand. They were so emaciated that, as Halil 
declared, all their bones could be counted. 

From 9.55 to 10.53 we rested in the stony Se%b of al- 
Krén. None of the camels would graze, but all knelt down 
and refused to get up again. We all shouted “‘al-hamdu lillah!” 
when at twelve o’clock we caught sight of the oasis of Tebdak. 
If we had been obliged to travel for another two days, we 
should certainly have lost three of the animals. The road led 
us through a parched plain covered with coarse gravel and 
in places with sand drifts. At 1.18 P. M. we crossed the se%ib 
of abu Nsejfe, which proceeds from the rocks of “Aséra. At its 
head is situated the ancient burial place of R&Gm Sowhar, to 
the southwest of which stands the ruined fortress Ksejr at- 


234 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Tamra, and to the northwest gushes the spring ‘Ajn abu 
‘Agejgat. At 1.42 we crossed through the Se%b of Zab‘an, at 
two o’clock we traversed the broad river bed of ‘Arejkén, 
and at 2.05 we dismounted in front of the quarantine. 


AT TEBUK; THE BENI ‘ATIJJE 


‘Abdarrahman Effendi, the director of the quarantine, 
ereeted us with great joy, for the news had spread at Tebtk 
that we had been attacked and murdered. In the last two 
days Tebtk had been surrounded by a marauding band of 
al-Ajde, numbering more than fifty warriors, and the foot 
soldiers had been unable to do anything against the mounted 
attackers. The raiders had stolen the camels belonging to 
the soldiers, as well as two large flocks of goats and sheep, 
which had been intended as food for the officials and soldiers 
at Tebtk. They had driven their booty to the gardens of ar- 
Rajes, where they had killed and cooked some of the animals. 
The rest they had then driven away to the southeast before 
evening on the previous day. If the Bedouins had actually 
attacked Tebtk, not a single soldier or official would have 
escaped. The soldiers and officials live a long distance from 
each other, their homes are neither fenced in nor fortified, 
and they have no cisterns, so that after two days they would 
be compelled to surrender by thirst and hunger. And all the 
tribes, the Beni ‘Atijje, the Hwetat, and the Weld ‘Ali complain 
of the Turkish garrisons and curse them. 

From Gwad, who throughout the period of our journey 
had remained in the infirmary, I learnt that the mudir as 
well as Salem, the deputy of Harb eben ‘Atijje, had been in 
a rage when they had discovered that I had departed without 
their consent. Immediately after my departure an order had 
arrived from Damascus that I should not be allowed to leave 
Tebauk except by railway. That is why the mudir had sent 
two gendarmes and Salem three Bedouins to follow us and 
bring us back. But after two days they had returned report- 
ing that they had been unable to find us, because, they said, 
we had gone through the defile of al-Hrejta to the coast. 

In the immediate vicinity of Tebtk there was scarcely 
any pasture for our camels, and they could not graze at 
a greater distance because they might have been stolen. 


RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK = 235 


Gwad explained that the Beni “Atijje were encamped near 
Bir al-Msallam on the eastern side of Mount az-Zejte. I very 
much desired to go to them. In their camp we could have 
exchanged our worn-out camels for sound animals and could 
also have made a more thorough topographical survey of 
the northern half of the region of Hesma; but a few days 
previously two men from this camp had been in Tebuk and 
had learnt from the mudir and Salem that the Government 
was no longer protecting us. It was therefore uncertain whether 
they might not have adopted a hostile attitude towards us; 
as, however, the Beni ‘Atijje were moving northward to the 
territory of the Hwétat and knew that I was friendly with 
the chief ‘Awde abu Tajeh, I conjectured that they would 
sooner esteem me as a friend of the chief ‘Awde than hate 
me as a man deserted by the Government. I therefore made 
up my mind after all to go to them. 

The tribe of the Beni ‘Atijje, which is known also as 
al-Ma“aze, or contemptuously as al-“Atawne, is composed of 
the following clans: 

al-“Atjat ; chief, Harb eben ‘Atijje 


as-Sbutt ; » Hamtd eben Farhan 
Gmé‘anijjin; ,, Mutlek al-Mu‘azzam 
ar-Rbej1at ; » Hamed 

al-“Akejlat ; »  Hlejjel eben Hirmas 
al-Mrakin ; » Muhammad eben ‘Emran 
al-Hamajse; 5» Nigm az-Zjtfi 

Slejmat ; »  Msellem al-‘Ezejdi 
as-Sa‘édanijjin; ,, Salem eben Sakr 
ar-Rawazin ; ,»  Da‘san eben Zel< 
al-Wkala’ ; » salem al-Wakli 


al-Masabhe ; » Muhammad eben Mes‘ed 
Of the families I noted down: 


al-Madamje__ al-Kur‘an an-Nwabte al-Hmudat 
al-Humran —az-Zlt‘ al-Rnejmat Awlad Selim 
al-Furgan as-Swerhijjin al-Hramse Awlad ‘Emran 
al-Ghas ad-Dijabe ar-Rsid al-Hlebat 
ar-Rwajat al“Ergan al-Jasajse az-Zfufijje 
ad-Dahhalin as-Sa‘éedat al-“EHsejfat al-“Ajjaba 
al-Brejkat as-Sa‘ud al-Fursat al-Hlolat 
al-Mera‘ijje ad-Dbawijjin al-Hsajme as-Swéfle 


ar-Rwe‘at al-Hwamde al-Graj‘e al-Huzara 


236 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


The clans of the Beni ‘Atijje possess the territory from 
the aS-Sera range in the north to'the station of HaSm Sana‘ 
in the south and from the mountains of al-Galad, or al- 
Geles, in the west to the table mountains bordering the Pil- 
crim Route in the east. The great chief is of the clan of 
the ‘Atjat, after whom the whole tribe is really named, 
although some clans, such as the Sbut, for example, are of 
a different origin. They assert that they have dwelt from 
time immemorial in the various halting places by the Pil- 
grim Route and that these are their property, although to- 
day they are nomads. Concerning the various families, their 
connections, property, and traditions, I had detailed records 
in the notebook which disappeared when we were attacked 
and robbed by the Beli.®* I should have liked to replace 
what was lost, but on the journey from WaAdi al-Gizel to 
Tebtuk we did not meet with the Beni ‘Atijje, and at Tebuk 
I learnt only what I have here reproduced. 

On Thursday, July 7, 1910, I spent the whole day drawing 
maps of the environs of Tebtk in accordance with statements 
made by various Bedouins who had resided for some time 
in the settlement. My companions overhauled the baggage. 
Gwad made enquiries in the village as to whether some 
member of the Beni ‘Atijje had not arrived from the north, 
or whether anybody would be going in that direction, but he 
discovered that telegraphic news had arrived from the station 
of al-Mdawwara concerning a great band of Sammar raiders 
which had crossed the railway line to the south of al-Mdawwara 
and was making its way to the southwest. As the Sammar 
are the enemies of the Beni ‘Atijje, it was certain that they 
were looking for the camps and flocks of the latter. Accord- 
ingly it was not to be expected that any ‘Atiwi would in the 
next few days proceed from the northwest to the southeast, 
or vice versa. 

Neither the mudir nor Salem visited us in the infirmary. 
The gendarme Halil came to me with the request that I protect 
him from the mudir, who had threatened to have him im- 
prisoned for having left Tebtuk with me without his consent. 
He had referred to the telegraphic order received from the 
commander of the gendarmes at Damascus, in accordance 
with which I was to be strictly watched and not allowed to 
speak with the Bedouins, because I was to be permitted to 


63 See above, pp. 210—211. 


RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK 237 


travel only by railway and not to go east or west of the 
railway line. 

On Friday, July 8, 1910, the mudir sent two gendarmes 
to the infirmary to prevent my speaking with anybody. As 
the infirmary belonged to the International Board of Health at 





Fic. 86—Railway station, Tebtk. 


Constantinople, I ordered the gendarmes to leave these inter- 
national premises immediately and threatened to have them 
fired at if they came near. But at the same time I promised 
them half a megidij7e (45 cents) each and three cups of tea 
daily, if they would retire to the inn of Mr. Sarikakis about one 
kilometer away from the infirmary. This promise was more 
effective than the orders of the mudir, and they immediately 
went off to the inn, where they remained the whole day. 


RETURN TO MA‘AN 


We could not remain any longer at Tebtuk; the camels 
were weak with hunger; we did not know whether the Beni 
“Atijje, in fear of the Sammar, were moving rapidly to the 


238 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


north or not, and it was likewise uncertain how they would 
receive us and whether the mudir would allow us to leave 
Tebak without interference. I therefore decided to depart for 
Ma‘an, transporting the wearied camels by railway (Fig. 86), 
and from Ma‘an to proceed to one of the camps of the Hwétat 
and rest there. But it was not easy to get the camels into 
a railway van. In Tebak there was no gangway on which 
the animals could have entered the van, and, as they had 
to jump, they became much frightened. It took more than 
three hours before we got them in by force and tied them 
up there. 

Having reached Ma‘an on Saturday, July 9, 1910, at noon, 
we immediately departed westward to the ridge of as-Semne, 
where we found pasturage and from where we could make 
sketch maps of the western region. But now the results of 
our fatigue manifested themselves. Rif‘at, Taman, and Serif 
fell ill and declared that they could not move. The camels 
ran away, three lost their saddles, and it took a long time 
before I found them with the aid of the guide and drove 
them up to the fire. The guide guarded the animals while 
I went to look for the lost saddles. 

On Sunday, July 10, 1910, my European companions could 
not get up, and there was nothing for us to do but to help 
them on to the camels and to return with them to the station 
of Ma‘an, where they lay down at the inn of Mr. Sarikakis. 

Accompanied by Gwad, I proceeded on Monday, July 11, 
to the town of Ma‘an to the kdjmakadm. He also informed 
me that he had received from Damascus a telegraphic order 
not to permit me to leave the railway line. To my question 
whether he knew where the Hwetat were encamped, he re- 
plied that they had all left the region west of the railway 
and that they were threatening the Government with revolt 
if they were not paid the money that was due them. He 
added that he would be glad to pay them the amount to 
which they were entitled but that the wali had sent no money 
from Damascus. While I was talking with him, we heard 
three shots and after that a cry of pain. The frightened 
soldiers and gendarmes scrambled into the Government build- 
ing and began to close the heavy gate, declaring that a re- 
volt had broken out at Ma‘an. After a while they brought 
a severely wounded gendarme to the gate and asked me to 
examine his wound. A bullet had passed through the right 


RETURN FROM WADI AL-GIZEL TO TEBUK 239 


side of his lungs and had embedded itself somewhere be- 
neath the shoulder blade. Quickly tying up his wound, I pro- 
mised the kajmakam to bring the necessary medicines for 
the wounded man from my baggage, but it was not possible 
to leave the Government building, because firing could be 
heard everywhere in the settlement. After about an hour 
the disturbance abated somewhat, and two gendarmes brought 
me a horse and accompanied me by the shortest road from 
the settlement to the railway station. From them I learnt 
that neither the native population nor the Bedouins had re- 
volted, but the gendarmes and soldiers had begun to fire at 
each other. 

I returned with the medicines to Ma‘an and went to the 
severely wounded gendarme in his quarters. While he was 
being moved his bandage had slipped down, the wound had 
begun to bleed profusely again, and it was certain that he 
would not live till midnight. His friends overwhelmed me 
with questions as to whether I thought he would recover 
and, gnashing their teeth, vowed vengeance upon the soldiers, 
if he died. 

Seeing that at Ma‘an and in the surrounding area every- 
thing was being prepared for a revolt, I proposed to return to 
Damascus. Rif‘at and Timan were much pleased with my 
decision and said that it had brought them instant relief. 
Serif and Isma‘in, who again visited us, were to accompany 
the camels along the railway line as far as Damascus, while 
we intended to take all the baggage with us by rail. 

On Tuesday, July 12, 1910, we loaded the baggage into 
a cattle truck, sat down beside it, and during the journey 
drew sketches of the country around the railway. We reached 
Damascus without any mishap. The wdli excused himself 
for having sent to Ma‘an and Tebtk orders which were so 
unfavorable to me but said that it had been done in con- 
Sequence of a direct order from Constantinople. He himself, 
likewise alarmed about a revolt not only in the environs of 
Ma‘an but also inthe Hawran, asked me to act as intermediary 
between him and my friend, Prince an-Nutri eben Sa‘lan. 





ACP EEN TEXeES 


ae - 


- | 
| het 
7 


~ 





ve Lee 


: i DAbT fied 
: “J ae 














‘ x= 
» % ¢ 
.. et | 
a 
‘ 5 4 . 
; ~ f yt +% 
P _ . rr T ‘ 
‘ oh at Fe 
¢ a2), ‘ 4 
® ¥ i ip ~ = 
P ii ia y 
ay! Pu rd “ZY 
“4 
+ ee | - am # 
‘ a hie 
ae i 
2 ae teu ie are 
er A L 
sa 
’ ‘ a 
3° 5 
ag? a” 
, y 





Rit ‘ 
‘ 
i 4 
4 
fom . 
oa 
* 
o4 
’ 
. k 
* 
’ 
nce) 
; 
a 
a ae 
’ 
. 
- * 
< 
ha” > = 
a" "y 
H . . i 
a % 
y en 





i 
‘io 


‘ el Pair , 
a ¢ 


APPENDIX I 
MA‘AN AND MA‘ON 


Throughout almost the whole of the last millenium before Christ 
the international trade of Arabia was in the hands of the Seba’ (Sabaeans) 
and Ma‘in (Minaeans), the rulers of southwestern Arabia. The Seba’ and 
Ma‘in were blood relations and struggled for supremacy, not only in their 
own country but also in the oases through which the great trade routes 
passed. In every oasis of any importance there was a southern Arabian 
colony with a southern Arabian resident, who acted as an overseer over 
the native kings and chiefs, keeping watch lest they should do anything 
detrimental to the interests of his master, the Sabaean or Minaean king, 
accordingly as one or the other of the clans of Seba’ or Ma‘in happened 
to be at the head of the feudal states of southern Arabia. We have 
reliable evidence about this arrangement in the oasis of Dajdan near the 
present settlement of al-‘Ela’. The remoter rulers of Syria and Assyria 
did not concern themselves with the political organization of the separate 
oases on the great trade routes; nor did they negotiate with the native 
kings and chiefs, but rather with the residents of the southern Arabian 
kings, whom they designated by the names of the latter. This explains 
why the Assyrian and Biblical records refer to the Sabaeans as being 
located southeast of the Dead Sea and either do not mention the large 
oases in that region at all or else mention them but rarely. In the second 
half of the eighth century before Christ an Assyrian army penetrated the 
environs of the oasis of Ma‘an and even went far to the south; the Assyrian 
records, however, do not refer to the oasis at all. We may best explain 
this circumstance on the supposition that the oasis belonged to the 
masters of the great transport route, the Sabaeans of southern Arabia, 
as did the large oasis of Dajdan, to which also no reference has hitherto 
been found in the Assyrian records; and that both oases were included 
under the name of Seba’, because the Sabaean residents administered 
their affairs. 


ME‘UN AND MA‘ON OF THE BIBLE 


In the Bible a number of references to the tribe of Ma‘on have been 
preserved, as well as to the inhabitants of Me‘Gn, which name we can 
also easily read in the Hebrew text as Ma‘on. These references are 
apparently derived from detailed and accurate sources, because, although 
they contain allusions to places mentioned nowhere else in the Bible, they 
nevertheless are in entire agreement with the topography. I hold the 
view that both “Ma‘on” and “Me‘in” designate the inhabitants of the 
oasis of Ma‘an and its environs. Whether the name Ma‘6n arose from 
Ma‘in or not, I cannot decide, because both are purely Semitic and both 
are frequently met with in northwestern Arabia. 


243 


244 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


In Judges, 10: 12, it is stated that the Israelites were oppressed by 
the Amalekites and Maonites. The tribe of Amalek, or the Amalekites, 
had their camps south of Judaea proper. Their territory was traversed 
by the great transport route leading from the oasis of Ma‘an through 
the pass of an-Namala to Gaza and Egypt, and hence it is evident that 
they must have had economic and political relations with the inhabitants 
of the oasis of Ma‘an, with whom they could ally themselves in an expe- 
dition against the southern tribes of Israel, who perhaps had disturbed 
the merchant caravans. The Septuagint, confusing Ma‘on with Madian, 
refers to the country southeast of the Dead Sea as their home. 

The most important record for us in this connection is that in 
2 Chronicles, 20:1, 10,22f. Joshaphat (Jehoshaphat), the king of Judea 
(873—849 B. C.), waged war against the Moabites, the Ammonites, and 
the people of Me‘in, who marched against him along the southern shore 
of the Dead Sea. The report, however, also refers to the people of Me‘tn 
as hailing from the Se‘ir mountain range, which tallies with the situation 
of the oasis of Ma‘an. This oasis is situated at the eastern extremity 
of the Se‘ir mountain range, through which two important branches of 
the transport routes used to lead. It is therefore highly probable that 
the people of Metin maintained friendly relations with the inhabitants 
of the Se‘ir mountains and assisted them in their war against Joshaphat. 
Moreover, Joshaphat was endeavoring to renew the maritime trade of 
the harbor of ‘Esjongeber at the northern end of the narrow arm of the 
present Gulf of al-“Akaba to the north of the town of Elath. When 
‘Esjongeber belonged to him, he must also have been in possession of 
the territory which was traversed by the branch transport route from 
Ma‘an to Gaza, and thus his interests must have conflicted with those 
of the people of Me‘ain. 

According to 2 Chronicles, 26: 7, King Uzziah (779—740 B. C.) 
destroyed the Arabs that dwelt in Gtr Ba‘al, and the people of Me‘tn. 
The Bible refers to the Arabs as dwelling south and southeast of the 
Dead Sea, and it is in these regions that our oasis of Ma‘an is located. 
The records of the political and economic affairs of the time of Uzziah 
point in the same direction. Uzziah’s father, Amaziah, subjugated the 
people of Edom and Se‘ir (2 Chron., 25: 14). Uzziah took advantage 
of this victory and established sway over the harbor of Elath, the present- 
day al-‘Akaba. This circumstance would seem to show that he was the 
ruler of all the eastern half of the peninsula of Sinai with the rift 
valley of al-‘Araba as far as the actual frontier of Edom along the foot 
of the Se‘ir mountain range; for only thus could the communication 
with Elath be insured. 

Having firmly occupied the eastern part of the peninsula of Sinai 
and the harbor town of Elath, Uzziah held sway over two important 
branches of the international trade route from southwestern Arabia to 
Syria and, just as his predecessor Joshaphat had done, came into contact, 
either on good or bad terms, with the rulers of the oasis of Ma‘6n, 
whence branch roads led to Gaza and Elath respectively. It was easier 
for Uzziah to maintain authority over the branch road to Gaza than over 
that to the harbor of Elath. The latter was perhaps more important than 
the former to the people of Me‘iin, because it connected them with Egypt 
and gave them an opportunity of avoiding the territory of Judea and 


MA‘SAN AND MASON 245 


of reaching Gaza of the Philistines either from the south or the south- 
west. When Solomon and Uzziah established maritime trade at Elath, 
the masters of southwestern Arabia certainly also had [trade relations 
there. Goods conveyed by sea were dispatched from there partly to Egypt 
and partly to Syria. The main trade center for Damascus and the great 
Syrian harbors could only be the oasis of Ma‘an, to which place a trans- 
port route leads from Elath through the valley of al-Jitm. This route 
runs to the foot of the aS-Sera’ mountain range, ascends the latter through 
the Star pass, proceeds to the east of the formerly inhabited territory, 
and so reaches Ma‘an. As long as Uzziah did not control this route, he 
was not master of the trade of Elath, because ships could land at the 
Gulf of al-“Akaba, and from there the goods could be conveyed to the 
main transport route, and so to Ma‘an. Having obtained control over 
the branch route from Elath to Ma‘an, Uzziah could interfere with the 
communication between Ma‘an and the south and thus force the people 
of Me‘tn to come to an agreement. 

According to our interpretation of the report quoted, Uzziah en- 
deavored to gain authority over the branch route from Elath to Ma‘an. 
He therefore waged war against the people of Metin and the Arabs at 
Gtr Ba‘al (Codex Amiatinus [C. de Tischendorf], loco collato, has Ttr 
Ba‘al). Many would prefer to read Str Ba‘al, but since the Septuagint 
has éat tij¢ aéteac, which in our opinion is entirely correct, I prefer the 
reading Gtr Ba‘al for the following reasons. The word Gur I take to be the 
Hebrew transcription of the Arabic ki, which designates isolated rocks 
of tabular form with steep sides. There is an abundance of these east, 
northeast, and southeast of Elath as far as the foot of the a%-Sera’ 
mountains, while to the north and northwest this configuration is unknown. 
Not far from the branch route between Elath and Ma‘an there rises among 
other rocks the kur of Mount Iram. In Islam this is associated with 
legends supplying evidence that on it, or near it, the surrounding population 
had a temple of Ba‘al, which would account for the name Gtr Ba‘al. 
Biblical report assigns the locality or region of Gtr Ba‘al to the Arabs, 
and this tallies with its situation to the east and northeast of Elath, 
because for the most part the Biblical accounts locate the Arabs east 
and south of ancient Edom. 

The most detailed Biblical report about the people of Metin is 
contained in 1 Chronicles, 4: 89—43. Under Hezekiah, king of Judea 
(727—699 B. C.), several clans of the tribe of Simeon migrated and 
proceeded to a place from which Gedor can be reached, seeking pastures 
for their flocks as far as east of Gai’. They found rich and fat pastures, 
and on both sides the region was wide, peaceful, and safe. It had formerly 
been inhabited by the Hamites. The men of Simeon destroyed their tents, 
as well as those of the people of Me‘Gn who were there, and settled in 
their place. There were five hundred of the men of Simeon who proceeded 
to the Se‘ir mountain range, slew the last remnants of the Amalekites, 
and remained there. The Septuagint does not read Gedor but Gerar; 
Gai’ is translated as if it were the common appellation of a valley. The 
whole report is generally interpreted as meaning that the men of Simeon 
migrated westward to a place from which Gerar could be reached and 
that they arrived at the east of the valley hag-Gai’, i.e. the border 
valley between the Promised Land and Egypt, which formerly belonged 


246 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


to the Hamites. The phrase “from which Gerar can be reached” does not 
seem appropriate in this interpretation, because the territory of the men 
of Simeon was also traversed by a road leading to Gerar. Their dwelling 
places were located to the east of the border valley, which, furthermore, 
was generally known as “Nahal,” not “Gai.” For a distance of seventy 
kilometers eastward from the border valley the bulk of the region is 
covered with sand and contains but scanty water or pasture. It is difficult, 
therefore, to understand why the men of Simeon should have migrated 
to so poor a country. Moreover, according to this interpretation a part 
of the men of Simeon left their new dwelling place near the border valley 
and proceeded to the Se‘ir mountain range, which is at least two hundred 
kilometers to the southeast, although from the context it would appear 
that Se‘ir was near the new settlements of the men of Simeon. 

The Hebrew text of the Septuagint translators had also Gedor, but, 
as frequently elsewhere, they read r instead of d. The Hebrew text contains 
the place names Gedor, Gai’, and Se‘ir. Gedor I propose to identify with 
the Arabic Kedar (al-Mas‘tdi, Tanbih [De Goeje], p. 338), the modern 
Kdtr. (The Arabic k is often transliterated in Hebrew as g.) This is 
the name of the southeastern portion of the as-Sera’ mountain range, 
the ancient Se‘ir, and also of the ruins of al-Mrejjera. Thus, accord- 
ing to our interpretation, Gedor borders on Se‘ir or is located in its 
southeastern portion. I connect the place name Gai’ with the reference 
in Ptolemy’s Geography, VI, 7: 29, where the place is recorded as Gaia. 
Ptolemy locates it, however, in Arabia Felix instead of in Arabia Petraea; 
but this is not the only occasion on which he confuses the two Arabias. 
The territory to the north of Tejma, where Ptolemy places the town of 
Gaia, is a complete wilderness in which no town was ever built. Glaucus 
in his Arabic Antiquities refers to the town of Gea as being near Petra 
in Arabia (Stephen of Byzantium, Ethnica [Meineke], Vol. 1, p. 200). 
Thus both Ptolemy and Glaucus would seem to bring us to the southern 
half of the Se‘ir mountain range, where, amid the very ruins of the 
town of Petra, has been preserved the settlement of al-Gi, which must 
be identical with the Biblical Gai’. At a distance of twenty-seven kilo- 
meters east of al-Gi is the oasis of Ma‘an, the inhabitants of which we 
identify with the people of Me‘tn, and which tallies exactly with the 
situation of the other localities mentioned. 

Our view is corroborated also by the interpretation of an Assyrian 
inscription which has been preserved. During the reign of King Hezekiah 
an attempt was made by the great Assyrian king Sargon II to subdue 
Egypt. Frequent battles ensued in the neighborhood of Gerar and the 
Egyptian border valley. Consequently the men of Simeon who migrated 
could not have found any safe and peaceful dwelling places there. 
A different state of affairs prevailed in southern Se‘ir and in the Gedor 
region. In the year 715 B. C. Sargon II had dispatched his army into 
southern Se‘ir and thence to the south along the great transport route 
leading from Syria to southwestern Arabia (Cyl. Inser. [Rawlinson, Cune?- 
form, Vol. 1, pl. 36], 1. 20; Lyon, Keilschrift., p. 4; Peiser in: Schrader, 
Keilinschr. Bib.,Vol. 2, p. 42). The army destroyed the camps and settlements 
of the tribes there, took many of the people prisoners, and transported 
them to Samaria. Many settlements and territories lost all their inhabitants. 
It is certain that the men of Simeon heard about this and for that reason 


MA‘AN AND MA‘ON 247 


set out thither after the departure of the Assyrian army. They marched 
“as far as the place from which Gedor is reached, seeking pastures for 
their flocks as far as east of Gai’” (1 Chron., 4: 39f.). According to this the 
road to Gedor passes through Gai’. Gedor must therefore be sought in 
the same direction as Gai’. But Gai’ is situated by the branch road leading 
from Gaza (not far from the former settlements of the men of Simeon) 
through the pass of an-Namala to the oasis of Ma‘an and to the main 
transport route from Arabia to Syria. The men of Simeon, therefore, 
must have passed along this branch road, journeying on it as far as 
a point east of Gai’, or the modern al-Gi; here they must have left it 
and proceeded more to the south on a road leading to Gedor (or the 
modern al-Kdtr) and the ruins of al-Mrejjera. 

The Biblical record relates that the Hamites had lived there before 
them. The Hamites are of the same kindred as the Kushites, akin to the 
Sabaeans, and the Bible mentions the Kushites as masters of the main 
transport route as well as of the separate oases situated upon it. At the 
end of the eighth century the Sabaeans were the masters. Their resident 
dwelt at Dajdan and directed the political affairs not only of the Sabaean 
settlements in the separate oases but also of the tribes encamped by the 
transport route. The southern Arabian colonists dwelt both in fixed 
abodes and in movable tents, because they had to look after the camels 
which they needed for the transport of goods. On the road to Gedor the 
men of Simeon destroyed some of these southern Arabian encampments, 
which must have belonged to the Kushites (or Hamites), and they met 
with the settlers from the oasis of Ma‘an, or people of Me‘tn, who defended 
their kinsmen. But both the people of Metin and the tribes encamped 
along the transport route had been weakened by the recent inroad of the 
Assyrian army and consequently had to retreat before the men of Simeon, 
who then settled down in the deserted dwelling places to the southwest 
of the modern oasis of Ma‘an. Some of the men of Simeon then proceeded 
to the southwestern spur of the Se‘ir mountain range, where they destroyed 
the last remnants of the Amalekites. Thus, this Biblical record would 
seem also to justify our identification of the tribe of Ma‘dn and the 
people of Me‘Gn with the inhabitants of the oasis of Ma‘an. 


ARABIC AUTHORS ON MA‘AN 


The classical authors do not allude to Ma‘an, for in their time all 
trade was concentrated in the town of Petra. Among the Arabic authors, 
it is referred to by al-Istahri, Masdlik (De Goeje), p. 65, who states that 
Ma‘an is a township and stronghold in the district of aS-Sara’ and that 
it is inhabited by the Omayyads and their clients. 

Ibn Hawkal, Masdlik (De Goeje), p. 124, states that Ma‘an is a 
township on the edge of the desert, inhabited by the Omayyads, from 
whom wayfarers can obtain supplies. 

Al-Bekri, Mu‘gam (Wustenfeld), pp. 501, 549, records that Ma‘an is 
a large stronghold in Palestine, five days from Damascus on the road 
to Mecca. He relates that Farwa ibn ‘Amr, of the tribe of al-Gudam, was 
governor in the stronghold of Ma‘an and its environs in the Byzantine 
period. Having become.a Moslem, he sent the Prophet a white she-mule. 
When the Byzantines heard about this, they captured and imprisoned 


248 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


him and then killed him by nailing him to a cross. — The territory of 
the tribe of al-Gudam extended from the present position of the railway 
station of al-Mu‘azzam on the south as far as Ma‘an on the north, and 
it would be possible for the chief of this tribe to be the governor of the 
frontier stronghold of Ma‘an situated in the province Palestina Tertia. 

Haggi Halfa, Gihan numa (Constantinople, 1145 A.H.), p. 539, relates 
that the stronghold of Ma‘an belongs to the district of aS-Sera’ and was 
built and provided with an aqueduct at the command of Sultan Suleiman, 
but that there is no good water there. 

According to Mehmed Edib, Mendzil (Constantinople, 1232 A. H.), 
pp. 70f., Ma‘an was originally called Ma‘al and belongs to the district 
of as-Sera’. This prosperous settlement has two strongholds, of which 
one was built during the reign of Sultan Suleiman. To the southeast of 
Ma‘an there are several thorny trees known as wmm ‘Ajjds. This kind 
of tree does not thrive north of Ma‘an. Besides them nothing grows there, 
and therefore all articles are made from a wood similar to that of the 
acacia. — Mehmed Edib was perhaps thinking of the talh trees, which 
grow in every valley of any size southeast of Ma‘an; whereas nothing 
is to be seen of them to the northeast. . 


APPENDIX UI 
THE LAND OF ‘US 


According to Genesis, 10: 23; 22: 21, the clan of ‘Us belonged to the 
Aramaic clans related to Abraham. We might look for the land of ‘Us 
to the north of Palestine, but in Genesis, 36: 28, and 1 Chronicles, 1: 42, 
it is recorded that Us was related also to the Se‘ir clan of DiSan and is 
located in Edom. In Lamentations, 4: 21, the poet invites the daughter 
of Edom living in the land of ‘Us to exult. 

It seems that separate Aramaic clans settled to the east and south- 
east of the Dead Sea among their kindred, the people of Moab and Edom, 
who likewise were descended from the Aramaic kinsmen of Abraham. 
We may therefore locate Job’s land of ‘Us in Edom. This is borne out 
by the friends who visited Job as well as by his manner of life. 

Job was the most important man among all the Bene Kedem (‘‘men 
of the east’) (Job, 1: 3). He was engaged in agriculture, but he also 
bred cattle, including not only oxen, but also sheep, asses, and even 
camels. He thus dwelt upon the borders between the tilled land and the 
desert, in which his camels grazed. The camels were fallen upon and 
stolen by the Chaldaeans (Job, 1: 17). 

These Chaldaeans dwelt or camped for the greater part in Babylonia 
itself, whence they could undertake raids to the east and southeast of 
the Dead Sea, just as various nomadic tribes in modern Irak do at the 
present day. Moreover, according to Jeremiah, 25: 9, 20, destruction at 
the hands of the “king of Babylon” is threatened to all the Arabs and 


THE LAND OF ‘US 249 


all the kings of the land of ‘Us. Hence the land of ‘Us must have been 
adjacent to the area of the nomads. 

In his illness Job is visited by four friends, Eliphaz the Temanite, 
Bildad the Shuhite, Zophar the Naamathite (Job, 2: 11 f.), and Elihu the 
Buzite (Job, 32: 2, 6). 


TEMAN 

The Septuagint designates Eliphaz as the king of Téman, in agree- 
ment with Genesis, 86: 15, 42, where it is stated that Téman was 
a duke, belonging to the clan of Eliphaz through the descendants of 
Esau (Gen., 86: 11). In Genesis, 36: 34, there is a reference to Husham, 
king of Edom, from the land of Téman. From this it is clear that Téman 
must be located in Edom, where so many scattered clans settled down. 

References are quite frequently made in the Bible to the Téman 
settlements which connected the settlements with Bosra, a city of Edom. 
Hence it would appear that they were situated in the northern part of 
eastern Edom. For instance: 

Amos, 1: 12, threatens that the Lord will send a fire upon Téman, 
which shall devour the palaces of Bosra. 

Jeremiah, 49: 20, exhorts all to hear the counsel of the Lord, which 
he had taken against Edom and his purposes against the inhabitants of 
Téman. In verse 22 he describes an eagle rising, soaring, and spreading 
its wings over Bosra, so that the hearts of the mighty men of Edom 
tremble with fear. . 

The men of Téman held sway over the rest of the inhabitants of 
Edom, both by their sagacity and by their heroism. Nevertheless, Oba- 
diah, 1: 8—9, threatens that the Lord will “destroy the wise men out 
of Edom, and understanding out of the mount of Esau’’ and that the 
mighty men of Téman “shall be dismayed to the end that everyone of 
the mount of Esau may be cut off by slaughter.’”’ The same threat also 
occurs in Jeremiah, 49: 7, in the form of a question: “Is wisdom no more 
in Téman?,” the reply being: ‘Counsel is perished from the prudent, 
their wisdom is vanished.” And there follows an exhortation: ‘‘Flee ye, 
turn back, hide in deep basins, O inhabitants of Dedan; for I will bring 
the calamity of Esau upon him, the time that I will visit him.” 

It is interesting that the same fate which threatens the men of 
Téman is to befall Dedan as well. The dwelling place of the men of 
Dedan was the oasis of the same name, the modern al-‘Ela’, situated 
425 kilometers south of the extreme border of Edom, whereas the men 
of Téman owned the northern border of Edom and were thus at least 
525 kilometers away from Dedan. It cannot be supposed that the enemy 
who subdued Téman would undertake an expedition across five hundred 
kilometers of desert in order to gain possession of Dedan also; nor in 
the sources hitherto discovered is there the slightest reference to any 
such martial achievement. We must therefore assume that the men of 
Dedan were in direct touch with the men of Téman and that this was 
the result of their trade journeys. The settlement of Dedan was situated 
on the great transport route connecting southwestern Arabia with Egypt 
and Syria. It was the residence of the representative of the south Arabian 
merchants, who equipped the trade caravans which set out from there 


250 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


These were the caravans from Dedan which, according to Jeremiah, 49: 
7, were threatened with destruction by the enemies of Téman. We may 
therefore infer that the great transport route from Dedan to Syria 
traversed the territory of the people of Téman and that the latter acted 
as sureties for the safety of the trade caravans. If this is the case, we 
must locate the people of Téman in the eastern part of northern Edom, 
whence led and still lead the main routes connecting north and south, 
avoiding the deep gorges and ravines in the western part of northern 
Edom. When the people of Téman were destroyed, the caravans of Dedan 
were without protection and could easily be plundered by the common 
enemy. Ezekiel, 25: 13, refers to the same thing when he threatens that 
the Lord will stretch out his hand upon Edom and will cut off man and 
beast from it, that he will make it desolate from Téman, and that they 
of Dedan shall fall by the sword. Téman here designates the whole of 
Edom, and Dedan all the territory ruled by the master of the oasis of 
that name which bordered on Edom to the south. 

In Habakkuk, 3: 3, there is evidence that a great transport route 
passed through Téman, for in this passage it is stated that God came 
from Téman and the Holy One from Mount Paran. After leaving Madian, 
which bordered on Edom to the south, the Israelites passed along the 
eastern side of the rift valley of al-‘Araba, or the ancient Paran, halted 
at the latitude of what was later the city of Petra, turned southward, 
entered the southwestern spur of the Se‘ir mountain range, and reached 
the southeastern extremity of Moab by way of the transport route. 
Hence they proceeded along the eastern border of Edom, where we locate 
Téman’; and thus Habbakuk could say God came from Téman and the 
Holy One from Mount Paran. 

Téman is located in these regions also by Eusebius, who in the 
Onomasticon (Klostermann), p. 96, says that Teman is the land of the 
princes of Edom in the country of Gebal and that the settlement of 
Taiman is still there, at 15,000 paces (according to Jerome, 5000 paces) 
distant from the city of Petra and with a Roman military garrison. 
Thence came Eliphaz, king of Teman, and also one of the sons of Ishmael 
whose name was Taiman. — The distances given by Eusebius and Jerome 
should not be taken into account, as the latter does not agree with the 
former. Jerome must have used a different source. In any case it is 
difficult to decide which of them is accurate, especially when we see that 
the statements in the Onomasticon concerning eastern Edom are often 
at variance with the real facts. Thus, we know with absolute certainty 
the situation of the Biblical Dedan; nevertheless, contrary to the Bible 
and to the facts, the Onomasticon locates it in northern Edom, stating that 
it is situated 4000 paces to the north of Fénan in Edom (ibid., p. 81). 

The eastern environs of Petra have been thoroughly explored to 
a distance of 10,000 paces. They contain no settlement with a name 
resembling Téman nor the remains of the Roman camp which existed 
there according to the Onomasticon. Teman of the Onomasticon, there- 
fore, must have been situated more in the southern half of Edom at 
some distance from the main caravan route; whereas, according to the 
Bible, it must be sought in the northern half and upon that route. We 
may therefore suppose that at the time of Eusebius there was a set- 
tlement in Gebal located on the Roman road and known as Teman or 


THE LAND OF ‘US 251 


something similar; that it contained a Roman garrison; and that the 
informant of Eusebius knew it to be 51,000 paces from Petra. By an 
error in transcription the accurate figure 51 was transformed into an 
incorrect 15 and, in the case of Jerome, into a still more incorrect 5. 

Pliny, Naturalis historia, VI, 157, mentions the Timaneans among 
the tribes in the interior of Nabataea and says that in his time they 
were called Taveni. According to Pliny, therefore, the old name 
Timanei had been replaced by a more modern Taveni, a name which, in 
our opinion, has been preserved in that of the ruins of Tawane (pro- 
nounced also Twane). The settlement of at-Twane, fifty-six kilometers to 
the north of Ma‘an (see Musil, Karte von Arabia Petraea), lies in the 
eastern region of northern Edom on the great transport route connecting 
north with south, contains the remnants of a Roman camp, and tallies 
both with the Biblical statements and with the Onomasticon. We may 
therefore identify it with the main dwelling place of the Biblical tribe 
of Téman, of which Eliphaz, the friend of Job, was a native. 


SUAH, NATAMA, AND BUZ 


Bildad, the second friend of Job, belonged to the clan of Stiah, 
which is mentioned in Genesis, 25: 2, among the descendants of Abraham 
and Keturah, and thus among the Madianites, who possessed the territory 
along the transport route from Dedan through Edom to Syria. Thus this 
friend of Job also dwelt in the closest proximity to Edom. 

Zophar, the third friend of Job, who hailed from the Na‘ama, came 
from the southern part of Edom. There is no other mention of the tribe 
of Na‘ama in the Bible. The Septuagint replaces Na‘ama by ‘‘Meinaion,”’ 
thus allotting the Na‘ama to the Minaeans. The process by which the 
Greek connected the Minaeans and Na‘ama will perhaps be clearer if we 
remember that Na‘ama was transcribed from Ra‘ama (Gen., 10: 7) and 
that the clan of Ra‘ama was akin both to the Sabaeans and to the people 
of Dedan, thus belonging, in the Biblical view, to the Minaeans. 

The fourth friend who visited Job (Job, 32: 2, 6) was Elihu of the 
tribe of Biz. According to Genesis, 22: 21, this Biz was of the same 
origin as ‘Us. If we take the Assyrian records as a basis, we shall expect 
to find its headquarters in the depression of Sirhan, where its name has 
been preserved in the local appellation of Biz, or Bid, near which various 
settlements were and still are situated. Through the territory of the tribe 
of Buz led the great transport route uniting Babylonia and the Persian 
Gulf with Syria and Egypt. We therefore understand why, according to 
Jeremiah, 25: 9, 23ff., Baz is threatened with destruction at the hands 
of the Babylonians just as are the inhabitants of Dedan and Téman. 

As, therefore, some of the friends of Job came from Edom and 
some from the closer and remoter surrounding districts — that is from 
territory situated to the east and south of the Dead Sea — we must seek 
the country of Job, the land of ‘Us, in the same direction. This is where 
it is located also by the Septuagint, which completes the Biblical Book 
of Job (42: 17b) with the observation that Job, whose real name was 
Jobab, dwelt in Ausitis, on the mountain range of Idumea and Arabia. 
This passage (42: 17d in the Septuagint) identifies Jobab, known as Job, 
with the king Jobab of Genesis, 36: 33. 


252 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


The mountain range of Idumea was later known as Gebalene, and 
thus the Septuagint places Job’s land of ‘Us in the same region in which 
Eusebius locates Teman (Téman), i. e. in the northern part of eastern 
Edom. Geographically this region can be divided into two halves: the 
eastern, which is flat, and the western, which is uneven. The center of 
the eastern half was the ancient city of at-Twane (Téman), while the 
western half is dominated today by the large settlement of at-Tefile, 
fifteen kilometers northwest of at-Twane (see Musil, op. cit.). At 
a distance of three kilometers south-southeast of this settlement extends 
a heap of ruins known as ‘Is. We may regard the word ‘Is as equivalent 
to the Hebrew ‘Us (just as Fénan, which is not far off, is the Hebrew 
Pinon), and we may therefore say that this was the center of the 
Biblical land of ‘Us, from which Job came. 


be Ee oe Lele LLL 


SE‘IR, AS-SERA’, AND THE NORTHERN FRONTIER OF THE HEGAZ 
SEIR AND AS-SERA’ 


A&S-Sera’ forms the southern half of the mountain range and region 
of Se‘ir, to which the Bible frequently refers. 

The allied kings of Babylon marched eastward from the Dead Sea 
to the south (Gen., 14: 6), slew the Horites in their mountains of Se‘ir, 
and reached E] Paran. 

El Paran is identical with the later harbor of Elath, or the present 
settlement of al-‘Akaba, at the northern extremity of the Gulf of al- 
‘Akaba of the Red Sea. It is thus obvious that we must expect to find 
Se‘ir to the south or southeast of the Dead Sea. But even if we did not 
identify El Paran as Elath, it would be extremely probable that the 
Se‘ir mountain range stretched to the south of Moab and thus to the 
south-southeast of the Dead Sea. 

We are brought to the same regions in Genesis, 32: 4, where it is 
narrated that Jacob, returning southward from Laban and while still 
north of the River Jabbok, ‘‘sent messengers to Esau his brother unto 
the land of Se‘ir, the country of Edom.” Esau had already heard of 
Jacob’s return, was marching against him, and met him east of the 
Jordan (Gen., 32:23). Having become reconciled with him, Esau returned 
to Se‘ir (Gen., 33:16), while Jacob proceeded in a westerly direction, reach- 
ing Sukkot and crossing the Jordan. 

From the context it is clear that Esau dwelt to the south or south- 
east of the Dead Sea and that he marched against his brother along the 
transport route leading from Arabia in the south to Damascus in the 
north. If we were to locate his dwelling place southwest of the Dead Sea 
and south of Palestine, we should also have to discover the reason why 
Jacob sent his messengers to him when he was still far to the east of 
Jordan and to the north of the Jabbok, and why the reconciled brothers 


SETR AND AS-SERA’ 253 


did not march together, seeing that Jacob also was proceeding toward 
the south of Palestine and southwest of the Dead Sea. 

Se‘ir is also placed to the southeast of the Dead Sea according to 
the narrative given in ? Chronicles, 20, about the campaign undertaken 
by the Moabites, Ammonites, and some of the people of Me‘tin against 
Joshaphat. According to the account in 2 Chronicles, 20: 2, messengers 
reported to Joshaphat that the enemy were marching from the east of 
the Dead Sea, from Edom, and that they were already near Haseson 
Tamar, which is Engadi. There it is recorded (2 Chron., 20: 23) that the Mo- 
abites and Ammonites quarreled with the inhabitants of the Se‘ir mountain 
range and slew them. — 

In my judgment, as we have already seen (see above, p. 243), the 
Me‘tnites were identical with the Ma‘dnites, who held sway over the great 
transport route and owed allegiance to the southern Arabian king's. Their 
center was the present settlement of Ma‘an. The Edomites inhabiting 
Se‘ir likewise acknowledged the authority of the southern Arabian kings, 
whose trade caravans passed through their territory and brought them 
considerable profit. At the instigation of the Me‘tnites they therefore 
gladly took part in an expedition against their remoter neighbors in 
Judea with whom they were continually quarreling. The Ammonites, 
Moabites, and Me‘finites dwelt to the northeast, east, and southeast of 
the Dead Sea, and, as the inhabitants of Se‘ir are substituted for the 
Me‘tnites (2 Chron., 20: 23), the Se‘ir mountain range must likewise be 
located to the south of the Dead Sea. 

In 2 Chronicles, 25:11, it is narrated that Amaziah, king of Judea, 
marched with his men to the Valley of Salt where he defeated the people 
of Se‘ir. — According to this account we may also locate Se‘ir to the south- 
southeast of the Dead Sea. To the south of Palestine, especially to the 
south of the ruins of ‘Abde, there are numerous elevations containing 
layers of salt, but I doubt whether it is there that we should expect to 
find the Valley of Salt, or Gé’ ham-Melah, which certainly borders on the 
Salt Sea, as the Dead Sea was also called. In summer the southern part 
of the sea evaporates, leaving extensive marshes from which the in- 
habitants of all the surrounding regions obtain their salt and which 
may be identified with Gé’ ham-Melah. The people of Se‘ir had heard 
about the warlike preparations made by those in Judea and therefore 
marched to meet the latter, encountering them on the frontiers of their 
country, south of the Dead Sea. As the men of Judea marched from 
the northwest, it must be supposed that the men of Se‘ir arrived from 
the east or southeast. 

In 1 Chronicles, 4: 89—48, there is an account of new settlements 
made by a part of the tribe of Simeon, who migrated from the southern 
regions of Judea to Gai’. From there a few of them proceeded to the 
Se‘ir mountain range, where they slew the last remnants of the Ama- 
lekites and settled down. — Gai’ I identify with the classical settle- 
ment of Gea, the modern al-Gi, to the east of Petra (see above, pp. 245 
—247). We must, therefore, expect to find the Se‘ir mountain range in 
the same direction, and this would also bring us to the south-southeast 
of the Dead Sea. 

Our view about the situation of the Se‘Ir mountain range to the 
south or south-southeast of the Dead Sea is not at all contradictory to 


254 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


the Biblical account of the route taken by the children of Israel in their 
wanderings. Deuteronomy, 2: 1, states that they proceeded from Kades 
into the desert in the direction of the Red Sea (Sea of Reeds), making 
a great detour round the Se‘ir mountain range, until finally they pro- 
ceeded northward. Deuteronomy, 2: 8, amplifies this with the remark that 
they went along the road of ‘Araba, marching from Elath and ‘Esjon- 
geber and passing through Se‘ir. — 

I locate KadeS in the neighborhood of the later town of Petra and 
hence to the south-southeast of the Dead Sea. They thus must have 
turned toward the south, either through the deep rift valley connecting 
the Dead Sea with the Red Sea, or by way of the road leading from 
Petra southward along the western foot of the aS-Sera’ mountain range, 
or the ancient Seir. The latter is a transport route of very great antiq- 
uity, upon which the caravans conveyed various goods from southern 
Arabia to Petra. Marching along one or the other of these roads south- 
ward, they went past the Se‘ir mountain range leaving it to the east 
and north, until finally they turned back toward the north, according to 
Deuteronomy, 2: 8, on the road of ‘Araba, proceeding from Elath and 
‘Esjongeber and passing through Se'ir. 

Elath and “Esjongeber are harbors well known from the period of 
the kings. From them important transport routes ran in a westerly 
direction to Egypt, in a northwesterly direction to Gaza, and in a north- 
erly, or rather northeasterly, direction to Damascus and Phoenicia. As 
the Israelites in their wanderings arrived to the east of Moab, it is 
certain that they chose the road leading from the above-mentioned har- 
bors to Damascus. From the context it by no means follows that the 
Israelites encamped at Elath and ‘Esjongeber, but it is clear that, pass- 
ing through Seir, they turned off upon that road to the north. The 
road was called “‘Araba. Al-‘Araba is today the name of the deep rift 
valley situated between Ajla (Elath) and the Dead Sea, but it is certain 
that the Israelites did not go by way of al--Araba, as they would have 
been obliged not only to make the steep ascent to the eastern plateau, 
but they would have had to go past Seir again; whereas according to 
Deuteronomy, 2: 8, they passed through Se‘ir. The rift valley of al-“Araba 
was never traversed by the large transport route connecting Elath with 
Moab and Damascus. During the dry season many animals and human 
beings would have perished from the heat there, nor would it have been 
possible to avoid the steep ascent. The transport routes of antiquity pass 
only through places which offer a minimum of obstacles, and this applies 
to the transport route from Elath northeastward through Wadi al-Jitm 
to Ma‘an, the ancient Ma‘on. If the latter settlement is identical with 
the main dwelling place of the Ma‘Onites — and there is no argument 
against this assumption — the Ma‘onites certainly exerted themselves in 
every way in order that all the big caravans might pass through their 
territory. 

The ancient transport route from Ajla via Ma‘an to the north leads 
along the border between the settlers and the nomads; and as, according 
to the Assyrian and Biblical sources, the nomads were called Arubi, or 
Arabs, and their land was given the same name, we must suppose that 
this road was called the Arabian road, because it led along the western 
border of Arubi, or Aribi, i.e. Arabia. The Israelites joined this road 


NORTHERN FRONTIER OF THE HEGAZ 255 


somewhere near the present station of al-Kwéra, and upon it they turned 
off to the north. They certainly passed through the Se‘ir mountain range, 
but upon its eastern edge where numerous other nomad tribes used to 
betake themselves. As they did not plunder, the inhabitants of Se‘ir did 
not resist their passage but merely guarded their border. 

This march through Se‘ir is recalled by Deborah (Judg., 5: 4), ex- 
tolling Jehovah who went out of Sedr and marched from the fields of 
Edom. There is an analogous statement in Deuteronomy, 338: 2, to the 
effect that Jehovah came from Sinai and showed the people his radiance 
from Se‘ir. He shone from Mount Paran and came from Meribat Kades. 

By locating Kades on the western border of Se‘ir, I can understand 
Deuteronomy, 1: 44, where it is narrated that the Amorites pursued the 
Israelites, who had departed from Kades against the will of Moses, and 
destroyed them in Se‘ir as far as Horma. The defeated Israelites certainly 
fled to the western border of Se‘ir, where they had their headquarters. 
There the Amorites went after them and thus likewise reached the border 
of Se‘ir, where they attacked the encampments and flocks of the sepa- 
rate clans who were dwelling at a distance from the headquarters. 

All the passages quoted hitherto require, or at least permit, us to 
locate Se‘ir to the south-southeast of the Dead Sea. Difficulties are pre- 
sented, however, by Joshua, 11: 17; but they can be disposed of. It is 
there stated that Joshua held sway over all the land from Mount Halak 
going up toward Se‘ir as far as Baal-Gad in the depression of Lebanon. 
As we cannot precisely define the position of Baal-Gad, likewise we cannot 
identify Mount Halak. I think, however, that it is the mountainous knot 
rising in the environs of ‘Abde, south of Beersheba and west of Petra 
(see Musil, Karte von Arabia Petraea), where we locate Kades. This 
mountainous knot actually rises opposite our Se‘ir, being separated from 
it by the rift valley today known as al-‘Araba. Thus interpreted, it not 
only does not contradict our identification but actually corroborates it. 


THE NORTHERN FRONTIER OF THE HEGAZ 


According to Ptolemy, Geography, VI, 7: 2, 27, the northern 
frontier of Arabia Felix, leaving the shore of the Red Sea between the 
settlements of Ajla and Hakl, swung off in a northeasterly direction to 
the as-Sera’ mountain range, the southern slope of which separated 
Arabia Felix from Arabia Petraea. — Ptolemy is concerned with the geo- 
graphical rather than the political frontiers. 

The southern ridge of aS-Sera’ appears to have formed also the 
frontier of the provinces of Arabia and Palestina Tertia, for Eusebius, 
Onomasticon (Klostermann), p. 124, writes that the town of Madiam is 
situated beyond Arabia to the south in the Saracen desert east of the 
Red Sea. — According to this it would be necessary to locate the frontier of 
the province of Arabia, and hence also of Syria, to the north of Madiam. 

The same statement is repeated by Jerome, Comment. in Isaiam 
(Migne), 60: 6. 

According to Procopius, De bello persico, I, 19, it must be inferred 
that the islet of Taran belonged to the province of Palestina Tertia, 
although the adjacent coast did not. The southern frontier of Palestina 
Tertia coincided with the northern frontier of Arabia Felix. 


256 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


The Arabic authors call the northwestern part of Arabia Felix the 
Hegaz and place the border of the Hegaz where the boundary of the 
former was situated, coinciding with the physiographical frontier. 

Abu Hudajfa says (Jakat, Mu‘gam [Wistenfeld], Vol. 3, p. 86) that 
Abu ‘Obejda with the Moslem army reached Sarr, or the modern Sorar, 
and from there marched into Syria. — It is obvious, therefore, that the 
frontier of Syria lay to the north of Sorar at the former position of the 
northern frontier of Arabia Felix and where the Hegaz is divided from 
Syria by the steep slope of the aS-Sera’ mountain range. 

Ibn al-Fakih, Bulddn (De Goeje), p. 92, records that Ajla is situated 
on the southern border of Syria. 

According to Ibn Hawkal, Masalik (De Goeje), p. 19, and to Abu-l- 
Feda’, Takwim (Reinaud and De Slane), p. 80, the southern border of 
Syria is formed by a straight line leading from the Red Sea near the 
harbor of Ajla along the edge of the administrative area of Tebtik — thus 
along the southern foot of the a3-Sera’ mountain range — to the east. 

Jakit, op. cit., Vol. 8, p. 259, states that the pass of Sitar is situated 
in the as-Sera’ mountain range between the regions of al-Belka’ and al- 
Medina. — As this pass is in the southwestern part of aS-Sera’ near the 
frontiers of the administrative districts of al-Belka’ (Syria) and al-Medina 
(HeZaz), according to Jakit also the aS-Sera’ mountain range must 
form the border between the Hegaz and Syria. 

Al-Idrisi, Nuzha, III, 5, writes that Tebtik is four days’ march 
distant from the Syrian frontier — which would place the northern frontier 
of the Hegaz on the southern foot of the aS-Sera’ mountain range. This 
can be reached from Tebtk in four marches, each of forty-five kilometers. 

Abu Zejd al-Ansari (Jaktt, op. cit., Vol. 1, p. 825) locates Tebtk 
between al-Hegr, four marches away, and the frontier of Syria — thus 
about midway between al-Hegr and the frontier. 

Muhammad ibn Misa al-Hazemi says (Jaktt, op. cit., Vol. 4, p. 451) 
that Madjan is located between the valley of al-Kura’ and Syria and is 
thus within the territory of the Hegaz. 

With different political administrations the political frontiers of the 
Hegaz were shifted, but the old physiographical frontiers did not change. 
This is clearly shown by al-Mukaddasi; for in one passage (Ahsan [De 
Goeje], p. 155) he refers to Madjan as being in the Syrian administrative 
district of aS-Sera’, but in another (ibid., p. 178) he states that Madjan 
is situated in the Hegaz near its northern frontier. The incorporation 
of a number of places in Syria is of just as little importance as regards 
the actual northern frontiers of the Hegaz as their incorporation in Egypt, 
as is the case in Jaktt, op. cit., Vol. 3, p. 748, with al-‘Wejned, and in al- 
Makrizi’s Mawd‘iz (Wiet) Vol. 1, p. 311, with Bada’, Sarab, and other 
places. 

Al-Asma‘i (Jaktat, op. cit., Vol. 2, p. 205) assigns the volcanic terri- 
tory Harra Lajla, as well as the settlements of Sarab and Bada’, to the 
Hegaz. Ibrahim al-Harbi (7bid.) conjectures that Tebtik and even part 
of Palestine form a part of the Hegaz. This conjecture of Ibrahim, however, 
is entirely isolated. It was probably due to the circumstance of the north- 
ern part of the Hegaz having belonged to the political administration 
of southern Palestine. Unwilling to admit that the sacred Hegaz was 
dependent on Palestine, Ibrahim al-Harbi included with the Hegaz southern 


NORTHERN FRONTIER OF THE HEGAZ 257 


Palestine as far as the town of Sorar at the southern extremity of the 
Dead Sea. 

Al-Istahri, Masdlik (De Goeje), pp. 12 and 14, states that the 
Hegaz extends somewhere between Madjan by the Red Sea and as-Sirrin 
on the Persian Gulf, as well as between al-Hegr and the two mountains 
of the Tajj tribe. — According to him, we may assume that the northern 
frontier of the Hegaz runs close to Madjan and north of it; the eastern 
frontier is near the mountains of Ega’ and Salma, while the western is 
formed by the Red Sea. As the ancient Madian was situated near the 
present oasis of al-Bed‘, we must locate al-Istahri’s northern frontier 
of the Hegaz between this oasis and the settlement of al-“Akaba on the 
northern extremity of the gulf bearing the latter name. The mountains 
of the Tajj tribe are included by al-Istahri in the Hegaz because politi- 
cally they belonged to Mecca and because the governor of the Pilgrim 
Route, who was sent from Mecca, resided in the settlement of Fejd situated 
at the northeastern foot of Mount Salma. 

Al-Idrisi, Nuzha, III, 5, states that the western frontier of the 
Hegaz leads from the waterless harbor of Ras abi Muhammed at the 
entrance to the gulf of “‘Akabat Ajla as far as the harbor of al-‘Uwajnid, 
ten miles distant from and opposite the island of an-Na‘m4an, and far- 
ther on towards Tena’ and ‘Uttf. — Ras abi Muhammed is identical with 
Ras Muhammed on the southern spur of the peninsula of Sinai. The 
name of al--Uwajnid (al--Wejned) has been retained in the pilgrims’ 
station of the same name southeast of the island of an-Na‘man. Tena’ 
must be corrected to Zeba’, from which it has been transcribed, but Zaba’ 
(or Zbe’) is situated to the north and not to the south of the island of 
an-Na‘man, “Uttf is unknown to me. 

According to Jaktt, op. cit., Vol. 2, p. 77, the name Hegaz (barrier) 
is derived from the fact that this territory separates the seashore al-Rawr 
from the upland of Negd. Al-Hegaz extends, he says, from al-Medina to the 
environs of the oasis of Fejd and the two mountains Ega’ and Salma. — 
Jaktit here copies from Istahri and indicates the then existing political 
area of the Hegaz. Physiographically the eastern frontier of the Hegaz is 
formed by the eastern edge of the jagged mountain range extending 
from near Tejma southward. 

Ibn al-Fakih, op. cit., p. 27, defines the beginning of Negd as where 
the rada shrub grows. In the Hegaz, he says, there is no rada, but only 
talh, samur, and asal. — This, however, is not the case, for in the Hegaz 
itself there are extensive areas covered with an abundance of rada: for 
example, the lowland of al-Mehteteb to the north, northeast, and west 
of Tebtik, and the valley of al-Gizel. 

Al-Mukaddasi, Ahsan (De Goeje), p. 53, includes the places al-Hagr, 
al-‘Awnid, Bada’ Ja‘ktb, Dabba, and Nabk within the administrative area 
of Kurh, as the main settlement of Wadi al-Kura’ is called. — Al-’Awnid, 
the harbor of this area, is identical with al-"Wejned; Bada’ Ja‘ktb is the 
small oasis of Bada’; Nebk must be located near the Se%b of a3-Sa‘af; 
Dabba, or more correctly Zaba’, is the modern Zbe’. The frontier between 
the Syrian administrative area of Sorar and the Hegaz area of Kurh 
led from al-Mwéleh on the shore to al-Mu‘azzam, or, as it was then 
called, al-Muhdata, on the Pilgrim Route; thus at latitude 27° 40’ N. 

Henri Lammens (L’ancienne frontiére entre la Syrie et le Hidjdz 


258 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


[Notes de géographie historique], reprinted from Bulletin de Vl’ Institut 
Francais d’ Archéologie Orientale, Vol. 15, pp. 69 ff.) locates the frontier 
between Syria and the Hegaz somewhere below the oasis of al-‘Ela’. This 
essay is brilliant as regards its equipment of learning, but on a more 
detailed investigation of the sources quoted it is obvious that the author 
has arrived at results which are scientifically inaccurate. He does not 
distinguish the physiographical from the administrative frontiers, pays 
no attention to classical reports, and does not interpret the Arabic authors 
faithfully. 

From the oldest times the southern slope of the a&S-Sera’ range 
formed the frontier between the settlers and the nomads. This is clear 
both from the Bible and from the Assyrian records. The classical authors 
took over these native frontiers and gave the separate regions new names; 
the Arabic authors changed nothing in this natural limitation of frontiers 
except the names. The southern frontier of Syria coincided with the 
southern frontier of Arabia Petraea (later of Palestina Tertia, or Pales- 
tina Salutaris) which led from the Red Sea across the mountains of Iram 
(Ramm) to the southern slope of the aS-Sera’ range. 

On the border of Arabia the Roman imperiwm had a twofold limes, 
an internal and an external one. The internal limes followed the edge 
of the settled and cultivated territory, while the external one led through 
the frontiers of the territory of the nomads, to whom the Romans paid 
annual salaria. The internal limes was permanent and therefore strongly 
fortified; the external limes, on the other hand, was not fixed; it contained 
no permanent Roman garrisons and therefore no fortified camps. North 
of Iram (Ramm) and in the aS-Sera’ range there is an abundance of 
remains of Roman strongholds and fortified camps which would seem 
to confirm the information given in the Notitia dignitatum. South of 
the a&-Sera’ range, however, I did not find a single Roman remain; 
nevertheless the settlements of Madiama (al-Bed‘), Onne (“Ajntna), Bada’, 
and especially Hegra (al-Hegr) were known to the classical writers, who 
would certainly have mentioned it had there been Roman garrisons in 
them, or if the remains of Roman encampments had been preserved there. 
But we search in vain for such references in the classical writers and 
for Roman camps in the northern Hegaz. From this it is clear that both 
Madiama and the other oases mentioned above were situated, as Eusebius 
correctly states, trans Arabiam, and that they did not belong to the political 
administration of the province of Palestina Tertia, or Palestina Salutaris. 
It does not follow from this that they were not situated in an area enclosed 
by the external limes. This is obvious from the inscription at Rwafa, 
where the tribe of the Thamudenoi built a temple in honor of the Emperors 
Marcus Aurelius Antoninus and Lucius Aurelius Verus (see above, p. 185). 
The Thamudenoi bordered on what was then Arabia Petraea and later 
Palestina Salutaris, whence they received salaria for acknowledging the 
supremacy of the Roman and Byzantine emperors into whose service they 
let themselves be hired. Indeed, they were even appointed as Roman or 
Byzantine officials. This is a usage for which there is evidence in the 
Assyrian records, and it has continued until now, but we cannot infer 
from it that the territory of the Thamudenoi, or of the Gudam tribe 
after them, formed a permanent part of the Roman Empire and belonged 
to Syria. As soon as a chief, who was at the same time a Roman official 


THE AMALEKITES 259 


or ally, no longer received his salaria, he departed in exteriorem limitem 
and made incursions against the Romans, as if they were his enemies. 
There is abundant evidence to support this in the classical and Syrian 
records. 

When the Romans or Byzantines succeeded in winning over an 
important chief, the external limes was shifted to the border of his 
political influence. At the time of the chief and phylarch Amorkesos 
the external limes extended to the south certainly as far as the environs 
of al-Medina; and the same holds good also for the time of the powerful 
kings of the Ghassanian tribe, who made punitive raids as far south as 
the oases of al-‘Ela’, Hajbar, and Hajel. The traces of such temporary 
influence extending as far as the Holy Cities were preserved even in 
Moslem traditions. Zubejr ibn Bakkar relates that ‘Otman Huwéret was 
appointed king of Mecca by the Byzantine emperor (Zobayr ibn Bakkar 
Sohayly, Manuscript of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, p. 161; A. Sprenger 
Das Leben und die Lehre des Muhammad, Vol. 1, Berlin, 1869, p. 89). 
The actual permanent Byzantine influence did not extend beyond the 
fortified internal limes, which passed along the southern foot of aS-Sera’. 
This was also known to the more important Arabic authors and explains 
why they place the northern frontier of the Hegaz where it is indicated 
by the classical writers and distinguish between the physiographical and 
the political or administrative frontiers. We can thus easily explain why 
some of them refer to the Syrian Hegaz, that is the Hegaz politically 
dependent upon Syria, and why there is variance in their statements 
about the frontier. A strong ruler of Syria has often exerted and will 
exert influence as far as the Holy Cities of the Hegaz; but he may not 
shift the geographical frontiers by one inch. 


AS EP NGL Xe LV, 
THE AMALEKITES 


The Amalekites dwelt to the south of Palestine. They are mentioned 
as living there in Genesis, 14: 7. In this connection we are told that 
the Babylonian kings marched along the transport route east of the Dead 
Sea and through Mount Se‘ir, inhabited by the Horites, as far as El] Paran 
situated by the desert, where they turned back (Gen., 14: 7-—8) and, arriving 
at ‘En Mispat, which is Kades, smote the whole of the land of the 
Amalekites, including also the Amorites dwelling in Hasason Tamar, and 
attacked the allied kings in the lowland of Siddim. 

We identify El Paran with the harbor of Elath, or the modern 
al-‘Akaba, and we locate ‘En MiSpat, or Kades, north of it in the 
environs of the ancient city of Petra. As the reference to the destruction 
of the Amalekites occurs after that to ‘En MiSpat, it is clear from our 
report that the Amalekites dwelt to the west or northwest of Petra and 


260 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


thus in the southernmost parts of Palestine as well as in the territory 
extending to the south. 

According to Numbers, 24: 20, Amalek is the first of the nations, 
— perhaps because they were the first with whom the Israelites came into 
conflict when migrating to the Promised Land. 

In Genesis, 36: 12, it is stated that the concubine of Eliphaz gave 
birth to Amalek. But Eliphaz was the son of Esau, and Esau the grandson 
of Abraham; nevertheless, even in the time of Abraham Amalek was 
living to the south of the Promised Land. — From this it is clear that 
this passage in Genesis cannot indicate the true origin of the Amalekites; 
it shows, however, that in time they became related to the sons of Esau, 
in whose neighborhood they were therefore encamped and with whom 
they also contracted marriages. 

The territory of Amalek to the south of Palestine marched on the 
east with the territory of the sons of Esau, so that conditions were 
favorable for establishing contact. Moreover, it was quite possible for 
Amalek to secure authority even over the sons of Esau for a period, 
as is stated in Genesis, 36: 16. 

Numbers, 13: 29, mentions that the Amalekites dwelt in the southern 
part of Palestine in the time of Moses, also, and were a source of much 
trouble to the Israelites as long as they were encamped in the environs 
of Kades (Num., 14:43). According to Deuteronomy, 25: 17ff., the Amalek- 
ites attacked the weakened Israelites on their march from Egypt and captured 
all their stragglers. Exodus, 17: 8, relates that the Amalekites marched 
against the Israelites at Refidim, where, according to Exodus, 17: 6f., 
Moses obtained water from the rock by smiting it with his rod. Refidim, 
which for that reason was also called Massa (temptation) and Meriba 
(altercation), was situated (Num., 20: 1—138) near Kades. 

We locate Kades and Meriba in the environs of Petra and thus in the 
closest proximity to the land of the Amalekites, who might easily attack the 
Israelites migrating from one camp to another and capture their stragglers. 
But the Amalekites also assisted other enemies of the Israelites. 

In Judges, 3: 18, it is stated that the Amalekites united with Eglon, 
the king of Moab, who took the City of Palms (i. e. Jericho) from the 
Israelites. — In order that the Amalekites should reach Jericho it was 
not necessary for them to cross over into Moab and from thence to go 
down to the Jordan, but they could easily pass along the eastern shore 
of the Dead Sea and thus unite with Eglon. 

Judges, 6: 38ff., mentions the Amalekites as the allies of the 
Madianites and Bene Kedem, with whom they were encamped in the plain 
of Jezreel. They plundered the land of Israel as far as Gaza. — The 
Amalekites could join the Madianites and Bene Kedem either at the Jordan 
valley after passing by the Dead Sea or on the southern frontiers of 
Palestine, where the Madianites had plundered also the environs of Gaza. 
After Gideon’s victory in the plain of Jezreel the Madianites and the Bene 
Kedem fled to the east, but there is no mention of the Amalekites. They 
probably saved themselves by passing along the shore of the Dead Sea 
to their own country. 

The Israelites were greatly harassed by the raids of the Amalekites, 
upon whom they therefore vowed vengeance. It was Saul, their first king, 
who marched against the Amalekites. 


THE AMALEKITES 261 


In 1 Samuel, 15: 3, the Lord tells Saul to go and smite Amalek and 
utterly destroy all that they have, including ox and sheep, camel and ass. 
Hence the Amalekites must have been in possession of several settlements 
and must have tilled the soil and engaged in the breeding of cattle. 

Having assembled his men, Saul started on his military expedition 
from Telam on the southern frontier of Judea. Arriving in front of the 
main city of the Amalekites, he set his rear guard as an outpost down 
by a nahal, or valley with a river. — The name of the main city of the 
Amalekites is not given, nor do we know the name of the river, nahal, 
by which the rear guard was set. It is therefore not possible for us to 
determine exactly where the main dwelling place of Amalek was situated. 
It was either on the southern border of Judea, to the east or southeast 
of Beersheba, or else farther to the south near as-Sbejta. 

Saul defeated the Amalekites and according to 1 Samuel, 15: 7, 
plundered their camps from Hawila to Stir “that is over against Egypt.” — 
Hawila is identical with the classical Arabia Felix, or the modern Negd, 
and its northern frontier is formed by a line from the northern half of 
the Gulf of al-“Akaba as far as Babylon. If Saul smote the Amalekites 
from Hawila to Str (the western part of the Sinai Peninsula bordering on 
Egypt proper) it must be supposed that they had control of the transport 
route leading from southwestern Arabia by way of Elath (al-‘Akaba) 
to Gaza and Egypt and that their power certainly extended also to the 
southeast of Elath as far as Hawila. 

We very often find instances of a small tribe, or indeed of a clan, in 
Arabia with a similarly wide area of authority. For several centuries the 
family of Abu Ris, which encamped south and southwest of Aleppo (Haleb), 
controlled the great transport route leading from Aleppo through north- 
eastern Arabia as far as Babylonia, and members of it were stationed 
at various points along that route. 

The trade relations of Gaza and Egypt with southwestern Arabia 
were very brisk, and the trade caravans proceeding from Elath (al-“Akaba) 
to Gaza were at the mercy of the Amalekites, through whose territory 
they passed. It was therefore likely that these caravans also acknowledged 
their authority on the road leading from Elath westward to Egypt as 
well as on that leading southeastward, or at least where the road skirted 
the seashore. 

Saul’s army, especially that part of it which came from southern 
Judea where the settlements had long been afflicted by the Amalekites, 
was certainly eager for revenge; and therefore, not satisfied with 
defeating the king, it made an inroad upon other camps and flocks as 
far as the shore of the Red Sea. The nahal in which Saul set his outpost 
is perhaps identical with the head of the valley forming the Egyptian 
border, and the duty of this outpost was to frustrate any attempt at 
flight into Egypt. 

Saul did not destroy all the Amalekites. In 1 Samuel, 30: 1ff., there 
is an account of their raids against various settlements in Judea, finally 
reaching as far as Ziklag, belonging to David, which they plundered, 
capturing the women and children there. David, having heard of this, 
pursued them across the stream Nahal Besor and overtook them in the 
plain (1 Sam., 30: 17). He released the prisoners and slew the Amalekites, 
so that only four hundred of their young men escaped on camels. — This 


262 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


narrative also shows that the Amalekites were still dwelling to the south 
of Palestine proper. David also waged war against them when king 
(1 Chron., 18: 11) and slew many of them. 

When Joab slaughtered the Edomites in Se‘tr and made safe the 
road to the harbor of Elath, in which Solomon later equipped a mercantile 
fleet, he certainly destroyed very many Amalekites, partly those who 
were helping their kinsmen the Edomites and partly those who were 
defending their territory (reaching as it did as far as Elath) against 
their enemies from Judea. It seems that they were completely driven 
out of their original settlements and that the last remnants of them 
were preserved in the southern part of Mount Se‘ir, where, according to 
1 Chronicles, 4: 48, they were encountered by the migrating Simeonites, 
who killed them and occupied their settlements. From that time onward 
there is no further mention of the Amalekites. 


APPENDIX V 
THE SITE OF KADES 


The first mention of KadesS is in Genesis, 14: 7, where there is 
a description of the march of the allied Babylonian kings. The kings went 
from north to south along the fields east of the Dead Sea, then through 
the Se‘ir range as far as El Paran, and, passing around ‘En Mispat 
(i. e. KadeS), reached the deep-set lowland of Siddim, where they defeated 
the allied kings of the settlements situated by the Dead Sea. We identify 
the lowland of Siddim with the southern border of the Dead Sea, and 
Kk] Paran with the later Elath and the present settlement of al-“Akaba, 
at the northern end of the Gulf of al-‘Akaba. There is no reason why 
the kings, having reached El] Paran (al-“-Akaba) in the rift valley of 
al-‘Araba, should have entered afresh the high western plateau, thence 
to descend with difficulty to the southern extremity of the Dead Sea. 
They could have taken the open road northward through al-‘Araba, for 
they must have known that both in the rift valley and on its south- 
eastern and western borders they would find the numerous encamp- 
ments of refugees from the Se‘ir range and herdsmen with goats and 
sheep from the western range; for, during the rainy season, the latter 
are very prone to linger with their flocks in this warm and well watered 
region. Thence the kings could easily have dispatched smaller bands 
to the western range against the Amalekites and Amorites, while they 
themselves with the main body of their army could have approached 
the settlements near the Dead Sea, whose owners refused them tribute. 
After a victorious battle they did not enter either the western or the 
eastern plateau but, passing round the Dead Sea, hastened with their 
booty and prisoners northward along the Jordan and did not turn aside 
until they were beyond the Lake of Tiberias. Thence they proceeded in 
a northeasterly direction to Damascus. We know the location of Siddim, 


THE SITE OF KADES 263 


toward which the kings proceeded: it is at the northern extremity of 
al-‘Araba. We identify El Paran, which they reached, with the settlement 
of al--Akaba at the southern extremity of the same rift valley, and we 
are not aware of any reason why the kings should have left this valley. 
We must therefore suppose that they proceeded from El Paran (al- 
‘Akaba) northward to the southern extremity of the Dead Sea. Along this 
road they reached ‘En MiSpat (i. e. Kade), and therefore we must locate 
‘En MiSpat near al-‘Araba between E] Paran and the lowland of Siddim. 

According to Numbers, 13: 17, Moses sent out spies to view the 
Promised Land. Starting from Paran they searched the land from the 
wilderness of Sin as far as Rehob and finally returned (Num., 13: 21, 26) 
to the wilderness of Paran and Kades. From this it would seem that 
KadeS must have been situated on the borders, or at least near the 
borders, of the wildernesses of Paran and Sin. As we know from other 
passages that the wilderness of Paran extended as far as the northern 
extremity of the Gulf of al-“Akaba and that the wilderness of Sin extended 
along the southern border of the Promised Land (which, according to 
Joshua, 11: 17, stretched as far as the Halak mountain) we must locate 
Kades eastward of the Halak mountain near the rift valley of al-“Araba. 
We thus arrive near the ruins of Petra on the watershed of the Dead Sea 
and Gulf of al-“-Akaba. We identify the wilderness of Paran with the 
southern portion of al-‘Araba, through which water flows into the Gulf 
of al-‘-Akaba, while we assign the northern part, through which water 
flows into the Dead Sea, to the wilderness of Sin, placing Kades on the 
border line of these two wildernesses near Petra. 

Deuteronomy, 1: 2, refers to the transport route leading from Horeb 
to KadeS Barne‘a; it is there designated as the road to Se‘ir, and the 
journey along it from Horeb to Kades Barne a is said to take eleven days. 

Deuteronomy, 1: 19, mentions the same road as the road to the 
mountains of the Amorites, and it is there said to lead through a “great 
and terrible wilderness.”’ 

These two statements are of importance to us, because, knowing the 
exact situation of the mountains of the Amorites to the southwest of the 
Dead Sea and of Se‘ir to the south-southeast of the same sea, we may, from 
the mountains of the Amorites by way of Se‘ir, define the direction in 
which we must seek KadesS Barne‘a. The ruins of Petra, in the neighbor- 
hood of which we locate KadesS Barne‘a, are situated precisely on the 
route from the Amorite mountains by way of Se‘ir to the south-southeast. 

The road to Seir, or the road to the Amorite mountains, passed 
through a “great and terrible wilderness” and thus could not have entered 
the populated mountain range but must have passed round it at its western 
foot between it and the wilderness of Paran to the west. Along the western 
foot, of the aS-Sera’ range there actually leads an ancient transport route 
from south to north via Petra through the an-Namala pass (about twenty 
kilometers north of Petra [Wadi Misa]; see Musil, Karte von Arabia 
Petraea) into the ‘Araba and farther in a north-northwesterly direction 
to the Amorite mountains. From Mount Horeb along this road to Kades 
Barne‘a is eleven days’ march. We locate Mount Horeb by the se%b of 
al-Hrob in the northeastern part of the al-Hrajbe table-land, and place 
KadeS in the vicinity of the ruins of Petra. From the se%b of al-Hrob 
to Petra is nearly two hundred and twenty kilometers, so that one day’s 


264 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


march would amount to about twenty-two kilometers. That is the distance 
covered in one day by the caravans with merchandise and by the migrating 
tribes during a lengthy journey. 

From Kades, Moses (Num., 20: 14) sent messengers to the king of 
Edom, who were to tell him (Num., 20: 16f.): ‘Behold, we are in Kades, 
a city in the uttermost of thy border. Let us pass, I pray thee, through 
thy country ... We will go by the king’s highway ... until we have passed 
thy borders.’? When he refused, the messengers said: ‘We will go by 
the highway: and if I and my cattle drink of thy water, then I will pay 
for it”? (Num., 20: 19). But the king of Edom would not let them pass and 
threatened them with violence. — 

According to this account, KadeS was a city on the borders of Edom, 
from which it was easy to reach the royal highway passing through the 
land of Edom from south to north. This tallies with the vicinity of Petra, 
which is at the western slope of the Se‘ir range and thus on the western 
border of Edom. Through Petra leads a convenient transport route from 
south to north, and by way of the an-Namala pass there is another route 
to the west and northwest. This pass was and still is connected by means 
of the ancient transport route with the settlement of Ma‘an, situated on 
the great trade route from southwestern Arabia northward to Phoenicia 
and Damascus. The connecting road crossed and still crosses near the 
ruins of al-Basta (seventeen kilometers southeast of Petra; see Musil, 
op. cit.) the royal highroad leading from the ruins of Ab-al-Lesel near 
Nakb a8-Star via as-Sadaka and at-TwAne northward. It was upon this road 
that the Israelites wished to proceed on their march. (See below, p. 271.) 

Leaving Kades, they encamped near Mount Hor, where Aaron died 
and was buried, whereupon (Num., 21: 4) they went along the road to 
the Red Sea (Sea of Reeds) so as to pass around the land of Edom. — 

The Sea of Reeds here designates the Gulf of al-“Akaba. The Israelites, 
being unable to penetrate to the northwest into the Amorite mountains and 
not having obtained permission from the king of Edom to pass through 
his country on the royal highroad to the northeast, turned to the south, 
skirting around the western foot of the range of Se‘ir (Deut., 2: 1) for 
a long time, until finally (Deut., 2: 4) Jehovah ordered them to proceed 
in a northerly direction through the land of the sons of Esau dwelling 
in Se‘tr. Accordingly they passed through the land of the sons of Esau 
(Deut., 2: 8) along the highroad of ‘Araba, leading from Elath and 
“Esjongeber. 

The Israelites thus journeyed along the western border of Se‘ir and 
the northern part of the region of Hesma. The whole of the latter region 
belonged to the Madianites. From Hesma they followed the road leading 
from the harbors of Elath and ‘Esjongeber to the north-northeast, 
ascended the Se‘ir range by Nakb aS-Star, passed over its southwestern 
corner, and reached at Ma‘an the above-mentioned great transport route 
from southwestern Arabia. Here they branched off (Deut., 2: 8) due north 
and made their way along the eastern border of Téman to the wilderness 
of Moab, whereupon they crossed the brook of Zared. According to 
Deuteronomy, 2: 14, it took them thirty-eight years to reach the stream 
Zared from Kades Barne‘a. (See below, p. 272.) 

We identify Mount Hor, where Aaron died and was buried, with 
Mount Hardin to the south of Petra (see Musil, Umgebungskarte von 


THE SITE OF KADES 265 


Wddi Misa, Petra). The accounts quoted above concerning the journey 
along Mount Se‘ir from Kades southward to the Sea of Reeds and thence 
along the “‘Araba highroad across the southwestern corner of Se‘ir to 
the northeast and north, agree entirely with the present routes. They 
thus corroborate our supposition that KadeS must be located in the 
vicinity of Petra. 

Numbers, 20: 1, records that the Israelites reached the wilderness 
of Sin and encamped at Kades, where Miriam died and was _ buried. 
Having no water, they murmured; whereupon Moses struck a rock with 
his rod (Num., 20: 11) and obtained an abundance of water, which was 
therefore known as Mé Meriba (Num., 20: 18). — 

This would seem to show that the wilderness of Sin borders on 
the environs of KadeS and is entirely in agreement with the position of 
the remoter environs of the ruins of Petra, which are situated near the 
watershed of the Dead and Red Seas. 

Having reached KadesS Barne‘a with the Israelites, Moses said to 
them (Deut., 1: 20) : “Ye are come unto the mountains of the Amorites.”’ 
That does not mean that KadeS was situated actually at the mountains 
of the Amorites, but that it was not far from there to this range. From 
the environs of Petra the mountains of the Amorites are easily visible, 
and by descending through the an-Namala pass into the northern part of 
the rift valley of al-‘Araba, or the ancient Sin, it is possible in a short 
time to reach the land of the Amorites. 

According to Numbers, 34:3 ff., the southern frontier of the Promised 
Land is to be formed by the wilderness of Sin along Edom; in the east 
it is to proceed from the extremity of the Salt Sea, to extend in 
a southerly direction from the ascent of ‘Akrabim as far as Sin, and to 
end to the south of KadeS Barne‘a. From there it is to lead to Hazar 
Adar and farther as far as the valley of Egypt. 

Kades, although it is mentioned so many times in the Pentateuch, 
is never included among the localities or cities of Palestine. The account 
just cited shows that the city of Kades lay on the very borders of the 
Promised Land and of Edom and, as we know from other records, at 
the western foot of Mount Se‘ir, which, as has frequently been stated 
already, extended to the south-southeast of the Dead Sea. We must not, 
therefore, locate KadeS either to the southwest or south but to the south- 
east of the Promised Land; this, moreover, tallies with the situation in 
the environs of Petra which we have suggested. To the west of the latter 
is the watershed of al-‘Araba, and near it the frontier of Palestine prob- 
ably passed westward to the valley of Egypt and the Mediterranean Sea. 
The border of the Promised Land led along the western side of al-"Araba, 
which at its northern extremity belonged to Moab, and farther south 
to Edom. 

Genesis, 16: 7, relates that Hagar, when driven out, came to a well 
on the road to Str. According to Genesis, 16: 14, this well was situated 
between KadeS and Bered, its name being Be’ér Lahaj Ro’i. — If the 
well was located on the transport route to Str between Kades and Bered, 
we must suppose that this road led from KadeS to Str by way of Bered, 
Stir, which marked the frontier of Egypt proper was protected by strong 
walls against the inroads of Asiatic nomads. Str was thus to the west, 
Kades to the east of the encampments of Abraham in a position which 


266 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


tallies with our suggestion that KadeS was situated near Petra. That 
there were the crossroads of important transport routes in the neigh- 
borhood of KadeS may be inferred from the various reports already 
quoted, and it is more than=probable that an important transport route 
led thence to Egypt through the northern part of the region of Sar. 
This transport route descended through the an-Namala pass into al- 
“Araba and led in a west-northwesterly direction by way of ‘Abde and 
al-‘Awga’ to Egypt. Bered must be located on the high table-land west- 
ward from al-Araba, perhaps in the ruins known as al-‘Awga’ (the 
Crooked), because of the appearance which they present from afar. At 
that spot there are deep wells with good, cold water, from which the 
name Bered might have been derived, and it forms the last station on 
the road from the inhabited area to the wilderness of Stir. Kade and 
Bered must have been important trading stations, otherwise the position 
would not have been defined with reference to them. The well of Lahaj 
RO’i, which the angel pointed out to Hagar, could not have been visited 
often, or Hagar would easily have found it from the footprints. It was 
more likely a small well in a dry river bed, into which flowed the re- 
mainder of the rain water which the gravel had protected from rapid 
evaporation. Such a well may be recognized by a dark patch of moist 
sand or gravel. If a small pit is dug in the patch, water gushes into it. 
Hagar could not have drunk from the deep well, as there was neither 
a rope nor a bucket. Possibly Lahaj R0’i is identical with Ammu Temile 
(twenty-three kilometers east of al-“Awga’; see Musil, Karte von Arabia 
Petraea), on the junction of the roads from “Abde to al--Awga’ and from 
Bir as-Saba’ (Beersheba) to the south. 

According to Genesis, 20: 1, the transport route from Kade& to Str 
was crossed also by Abraham, when he was wandering between Kades 
and Str and abode at Gerar. — From this passage, as well as from 
others, it is obvious that Gerar must not be located, as is often done, 
to the southeast of Gaza on the right bank of the stream an-Nahr in 
the ruins of Umm al-Gerar, but much farther to the south, as the 
southern environs of Gaza did not belong to Str. 

Besides the passages quoted — together with Judges, 11:16 f., where 
there is a brief reference to the march of the Israelites from Egypt, 
and Psalms, 29: 8, where the wilderness of KadeS is mentioned — there 
is no other reference to Kades in the Old Testament. From the accounts 
upon which we have commented it is clear that KadeS indicates the 
wilderness or region of Kades, the city of KadesS, and even the well 
of Kades. It must therefore have been an extensive area, which was 
fertile and therefore irrigated in some parts but barren in others where 
there was no water. In this way we may explain the various statements 
which are associated with KadeS in the Bible. Reference is made to the 
wilderness of Paran in which Kades is situated; to the wilderness of Sin, 
in which Kades is also located; to Kades Barne‘a; to Meribat Kades or 
Mé Meriba, which is also KadeS. All these designations may be ex- 
plained, if we place Kades in the neighborhood of the ruins of Petra. The 
eastern part of this neighborhood is fertile and irrigated; the western part 
rocky, barren, and almost devoid of water. 


AYP. PENDIX- VI 


THE ROUTE OF THE EXODUS 


FROM EGYPT TO MOUNT SINAI, OR HOREB 


When the Israelites fled from Egypt they endeavored as soon as 
possible to escape from the reach of Egyptian political influence. They 
found a refuge in a country which afforded them not only safety but 
also the necessary food supplies. This country must have had an abun- 
dance of water with rich pastures and must have been situated near 
large transport routes so that they could purchase what they needed 
from the trade caravans. Moses knew such a country, the land of Madian, 
where he himself had found a refuge and where, in the person of his 
father-in-law, the priest of Madian, he had a powerful protector not only 
for himself but also for his kindred of Israel. He therefore led the 
Israelites direct from Egypt into Madian to the mountain of God, where 
Jehovah appeared to him. 

The land of Madian, where Moses passed many years as a refugee, is 
situated, in our judgment, to the southeast of the present settlement of 
al-‘Akaba. This is indicated by the halting places recorded on the march 
of the Israelites. These camps are scattered in various groups, which 
unfortunately do not supplement each other; in fact, a connected list of 
them, such as we read in Numbers, 33, is at variance with several state- 
ments made elsewhere. 

According to Exodus, 15: 22, the Israelites left Egypt proper by the 
Red Sea (Sea of Reeds), in which Pharaoh perished, and proceeded through 
the wilderness of Stir for three days without finding water, until at last 
(Ex., 15: 28) they reached Mara’, where there was water, which, how- 
ever, was bitter. 

If any great tribe today flees from the government and the army ofa 
civilized state, it proceeds rapidly along the most convenient and most direct 
transport route, if only to escape as soon as possible from the territory 
and jurisdiction of the military power. Such also was the case in the 
fifteenth century before Christ, when the Israelites migrated from 
Egypt. The peninsula of Sinai at that time contained Egyptian garrisons. 
The tribes living there were more or less dependent upon Egypt and 
would have received orders to attack the Israelites with their garrisons 
and thus force them to return. The Israelites were therefore obliged to 
hasten so as to traverse the peninsula of Sinai before the garrisons were 
strengthened and the nomads incited against them. For strengthening 
the garrisons and mustering the nomads at least a month would have 
been necessary, and in this time the Israelites had to escape from the 
peninsula of Sinai. On the first day they had to hasten so as to avoid 
being surrounded by the army dispatched against them from the border 
places by the Sea of Reeds; on the second and the subsequent days they 
could proceed slowly. They had to water their cattle and give them time 


267 


268 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


for pasture, supply themselves with water, and wait for flocks of goats 
and sheep which were always behind. The quickest and most convenient 
way for them to get away from the sphere of Egyptian authority was 
upon the transport route leading from Egypt to the northern extremity 
of the Gulf of al-‘Akaba. Upon this route the leader proceeded with his 
retinue, while the remainder of the Israelites marched with their flocks 
to the right and left of the route but parallel with it. 

If today a tribe numbering five thousand famil’es migrates with 
its flocks, it forms a column at least twenty kilometers wide and five 
kilometers deep. The wider the line is, the more pasture the flocks will 
find, but the more will they lag behind and run the risk of being cut 
off on their flanks; the deeper it is, the less pasture will remain for the 
flocks in the rear, the more confusion and disorder there will be, but 
all the greater will be the facility of repelling a hostile attack. 

If the Israelites migrated from Egypt in the month of March and if 
there had been an abundance of rain on the peninsula of Sinai that year 
they would have found rain pools of various sizes in all the cavities and 
in all the hollows of the various river beds, and they could comfortably 
have replenished their water bags and watered their flocks. Where they 
had to depend only on wells or deep cisterns, the filling of the water bags 
and the watering of the cattle would have occasioned them much labor. 

We do not know the location of the spot which, because of its bitter 
water, the Israelites called Mara’ (Bitter). 

From Mara’ they reached Elim (Ex., 15: 27), where there were 
twelve springs and seventy palm trees. 

If we admit that the Israelites proceeded on the great transport 
route, we must locate Elim in the immediate vicinity of the modern 
settlement of al--Akaba, where there are countless springs, where at 
every spot it is possible to obtain water by digging to a depth of one- 
half a meter to two meters, and where there are numerous palm trees. 
I identify this Elim with El Paran (Gen., 14: 6) and with the later city 
of Eloth or Elath (1 Kings, 9: 26; 2 Kings, 14: 22). It is not necessary 
to locate the camp of the Israelites in the settlement itself, which at 
that time certainly stood at the same important spot; but, rather, two 
or three kilometers to the west of the settlement, where even today 
there are several palm groves and where there used to be a ford across 
the narrow arm of the sea extending as far as “Esjéngeber (Radjan and 
al-Gbél). 

According to Exodus, 16: 1, the Israelites went from Egypt to Elim 
within a month. This, of course, is only an approximate statement, as 
we do not know how long they were in passing through Egypt proper 
and how many weeks their march through the peninsula of Sinai lasted. 
From Elim (Ex., 16: 1) they entered the wilderness of Sin, “‘which is 
between Elim and Sinai.” 

Knowing the situation of the land of Madian, in which rises Mount 
Horeb, we know also the direction in which the Israelites departed from 
Elim. They still remained on the great transport route and moved in a 
southeasterly direction, at first along the shore itself and later at a 
distance of twenty-five kilometers from the shore of the Gulf of al- 
‘Akaba. According to this interpretation Sin denotes the mountain range 
to the east of the Gulf of al-‘Akaba. This tallies with Judges, 11: 16, 


THE ROUTE OF THE EXODUS 269 


where it is stated that the Israelites, when passing from Egypt, went 
through the wilderness as far as the Sea of Reeds. 

Exodus, 17: 1—18, relates how the Israelites went from the wilderness 
of Sin to Refidim, where there was no water; how Moses obtained water 
from the rock near Horeb with his rod; how that place was therefore 
called Massa and Meriba; and how the Amalekites attacked the Israel- 
ites there. 

According to all our sources of information Horeb was situated in 
the land of Madian. 

The Israelites were thus under the protection of the Madianites 
there. It is certainly possible that the Amalekites made inroads upon 
them as far as the land of Madian, but it is not really probable. Nor is 
it very probable that Moses would have led the Israelites to Mount Horeb 
if he had known that there was no water close at hand. Moreover, we 
know from other passages (Num., 20: 13) that Meriba was situated near 
Kades eleven days distant from Horeb, where Moses also obtained water 
from the rock by means of his rod, when the multitude began to murmur. 
We must therefore identify this miraculous obtaining of water at Horeb 
with that at KadeS and regard Refidim only as a halting place on the 
march from Elim to Mount Horeb. About one hundred kilometers to the 
south of al--Akaba (Elim) there is a basin in the mountain range of 
ar-Rafid, which I take to be Refidim. About twenty kilometers southeast 
of this is the oasis of al-Bed‘, or the ancient Madian, to which the Israelites 
hastened. This tallies with Exodus, 19: 2, according to which they went 
from Refidim to the wilderness of Sinai, where they encamped opposite 
the mountain. There, according to another source (Ex., 18: 5), Jethro, 
the priest of Madian, came to Moses in the wilderness, where he was 
encamped by the mountain of God and, having conferred with him, returned 
to his own country (Ex., 18: 27). The main camp of the Israelites was 
thus not pitched by the settlement in which Jethro dwelt. The latter 
must be sought, according to the configuration of the ground, to the 
south of al-Bed’, perhaps in the oasis of ‘Ajnina at a distance of fifty 
kilometers, and the main camp of the Israelites by the se‘tb of al-Hrob, 
twenty kilometers to the north of ‘Ajntina. 


FROM MOUNT SINAI TO THE STREAM ZARED 


From Mount Sinai, or Horeb, the Israelites wished to proceed to 
the wilderness of Paran (Num., 10: 12). They were to be accompanied 
by Hobab, the son of Ra‘uél (Num., 10: 29), a Madianite, as a guide to 
find out for them the most suitable places for obtaining water and for 
encamping. According to the Bible, he was to be their ‘ayn. 

‘Ajn (plural ‘ujuin) denotes a scout who rides in front of a tribe 
on a warlike expedition and searches for safe places where they may 
encamp and obtain water. Even when a tribe migrates, it also has such 
a scout, but he is then known as kalldt. From the name ‘ajn, which 
was to be applied to Hobab, it may therefore be supposed that the 
ancient writers regarded the march of the Israelites from Sinai as 
a warlike expedition; this certainly agrees with what actually occurred, 
as they wished to acquire new settlements. The wilderness of Paran, to 
which the Israelites proceeded from the wilderness of Sinai, we identify 


270 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


with the southern half of the rift valley of al-‘Araba and its immediate 
mountainous neighborhood. The Israelites therefore went from Sinai in 
a north-northwesterly direction. 

Whether the Israelites took the same road as the one upon which 
they reached Sinai, or whether they chose another road, cannot be exactly 
determined from the account given in Numbers, but it seems as if the 
description there refers to another road, because there is no mention of 
Elim, and it is stated (Num., 10: 33) that after three marches from the 
mountain of God the Israelites fared ill. We may suppose that at the 
head of the al-Abjaz valley they reached the present shrine of Sam ‘dl, 
where the broken country begins. The people murmured, the camp was 
set on fire, and they therefore called the place Tab‘éra (burnt-out 
encampment) (Num., 11: 3). 

They continued their march, and many perished as a punishment 
for having consumed meat; they therefore called that place Kibrot 
hat-Ta’awa (dust graves) (Num., 11: 34). Thence they passed to Hasérot 
(Num., 11: 35). I look for this halting place near the ruins of al-Homejma, 
where there is a small se7%b called al-Hazra. They then reached the wild- 
erness of Paran (Num., 12:16), which they entered near theruins of Hammad, 
about seventy kilometers north-northeast of al-‘Akaba, where the rocks 
forming the eastern border of al-‘Araba approach the foot of aS-Sera’. 
The spies sent from Paran to the Promised Land (Num, 18:3), after having 
inspected the whole country, returned to the wilderness of Paran (i. e. 
Kades). From this it is clear that KadesS must be located in the wilderness 
of Paran and thus near al-‘Araba, not far from the real frontier of the 
Promised Land. 

The account given in Deuteronomy, 1: 2, fixes the distance from 
Horeb to Kades Barne‘a by way of Mount Se‘ir at eleven days’ march. 
For our purposes there is a more important fact than the fixing of this 
distance: that is that the journey from Horeb to KadeS was made by 
the road of Mount Se‘ir. The account thus refers to the transport route 
which leads to Mount Se‘ir but does not pass through it. The same route 
is indicated in Deuteronomy, 1: 19, where it is stated that the Israelites, 
after departing from Horeb, passed, by the road of the mountain of the 
Amorites, through a “great and terrible wilderness.” The road of Mount 
Se‘ir and the road to the mountain of the Amorites may be the same, 
for the mountain of the Amorites rises to the northwest of Se‘ir, so that 
the road leading to it is only a continuation of the road leading to Se‘ir. 
This road passes through a great and terrible wilderness; but Mount 
Se‘ir was cultivated and inhabited, and it must therefore be supposed 
that the road in question passed along its western foot on the border 
between Se‘ir and Paran. In that district there is actually an ancient 
transport route leading from Madian through the valley of al-Abjaz past 
Mount Iram (Ramm) and the ruins of al-Homejma northward to the 
ruins of Petra, then farther through the convenient an-Namala pass to 
the rift valley of al-‘Araba, and in a northwesterly direction to Hebron 
or in a west-northwesterly direction to Gaza. This road, upon which in 
the Nabataean period the main import trade from the south to Petra and 
Gaza was concentrated, may thus be identified with the road to Mount 
Se‘ir and the road to the mountain of the Amorites. If the Israelites passed 
along it, then they reached the actual wilderness of Paran via the modern 


THE ROUTE OF THE EXODUS 271 


ruins of al-Homejma. We must therefore seek KadeS in the neighborhood 
of Petra. From there could be seen the mountain of the Amorites and 
the Promised Land, a circumstance which explains why the spies were 
sent out to report as to the manner in which the Israelites could obtain 
possession of the latter. (See above, pp. 268—264.) 

From Paran (i. e. KadeS) the warriors departed to conquer the 
land, against the will of Moses (Num., 14: 44). 

According to Numbers, 21: 1, the king of Arad learnt that the 
Israelites were approaching on the road ha-Atarim and marched against 
them. I consider ha-Atarim to be an incorrect transcription of ha- Amorim, 
the road of the Amorites (Deut., 1: 19). The king of Arad allied himself 
with the Canaanites and Amalekites, defeated the Israelites, and scattered 
them as far as Horma. 

Numbers, 20: 1, records that the Israelites came to the wilderness 
of Sin and encamped at Kades, where Miriam died. — From this it follows 
that KadeS must be located on the border of the wildernesses of Paran 
and Sin. If the headquarters of the Israelites with the sanctuary continued 
to be at Kades, the remainder could encamp round about, especially to 
the west and northwest of Kades in al-‘Araba, the northern half of which 
bordered on the wilderness of Sin and perhaps even formed part of it. 

Having ascertained that they could not enter the Promised Land 
in a northwesterly direction because both the Amalekites and the Canaanites 
were making preparations against them there, the Israelites wished to 
penetrate north of the Dead Sea. They therefore sent messengers to the 
king of Edom (Num., 20: 16), asking him to let them march through 
his land from Kades, a city on the frontiers of Edom, along the “‘king’s 
highway” (Num., 20: 17) or along “‘the highway” (Num., 20: 19).— From 
this it may be inferred that Kades was situated at the junction of important 
transport routes, or that at least it was possible from there easily to reach 
the king’s highway which led through the land of Edom northward. 

The king’s highway doubtless might have been the name only of 
that route which passed through the cultivated territory and was convenient, 
suitable for transit, and artificially constructed. There is only one such 
road in Se‘ir. It begins at Mount Se‘ir just north of the pass Nakb 
as-Star by the ruins of Aba-l-Lesel and leads past the settlements of 
as-Sadaka and at-Twane through the cultivated territory northwards. 
By the ruins of al-Basta two branch roads divide off from it. One leads 
eastward to the settlement of Ma‘an, and the second westward to the 
ruins of Wadi Misa (Petra), where it joins the road described immediately 
above (p. 270), which leads to Mount Se‘ir or to the mountain of the 
Amorites. I identify the road leading from Ab-al-Lesel via as-Sadaka to 
at-Twane with the king’s highway, upon which the Israelites wished to 
branch off from Kades. The king of Edom did not permit them to do so, 
because he was afraid that they might settle in his country. He knew that 
they were on a warlike expedition and that they were seeking new 
settlements. Thus, having the hostile Amalekites and Amorites to the 
northwest, they did not wish to arouse the hostility of the Edomites as 
well, and consequently they changed their intention and passed round 
Mount Seiir. 

Having left Kades (Num., 20: 22), they reached Mount Hor on the 
border of Edom, where Aaron died and was buried. — I identify this Mount 


272 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Hor with the modern Mount Hardin to the south of the ruins of Petra. 

From Mount Hor they proceeded (Num., 21: 4) toward the Sea of 
Reeds in order to pass round the land of Edom. The same account is 
given in Deuteronomy, 2: 1, where it is stated that they turned towards 
the Sea of Reeds and passed round Mount Se‘ir. — 

The direction is thus indicated. As far as KadesS they had gone in 
a north-northwesterly direction from Horeb. Being unable to penetrate 
the mountains of the Amorites, they had wished to proceed to the north- 
northeast through the mountains of the Edomites. Refused access this 
way, they turned in a southerly direction back toward the Sea of Reeds 
from the direction of which they had started. If we agree that the modern 
Mount Hartn is identical with the Biblical Mount Hor, it necessarily 
follows that they proceeded to the south past Mount Se‘ir along the 
same road by which they had reached Kades, until they drew near the 
northern extremity of the Gulf of al-‘Akaba: that is until they were 
at no great distance from the Sea of Reeds; then, going into the region 
of Hesma, they turned toward the northeast and proceeded thence through 
the southern a3-Sera range (the ancient Edom) to Ma‘an and farther 
to the north (Deut., 2: 4). 

According to the account given in Deuteronomy, 2: 8, the Israelites 
passed through the land of the sons of Esau, who dwelt in Se‘ir, along 
the road of ‘Araba from Elath and ‘Esjongeber and then turned aside 
and proceeded in the direction of the wilderness of Moab. — 

The Bible does not state that the Israelites arrived at Elath and 
‘Esjongeber but only mentions that they passed along the road of “Araba 
leading from Elath and “Esjongeber through the land of the sons of Esau, 
who dwelt in Se‘ir. This road starts from the rift valley of al-‘Araba, 
in which the harbors of Elath and ‘Esjongeber were situated, runs 
through the valley of al-Jitm to the region of Hesma, thence through 
the pass of aS-Star in the ag-Sera’ range, and farther in a northeasterly 
direction to Ma‘an, where it joins with the main transport route passing 
from south to north. This road was used by the nomads encamping east 
of Edom when they journeyed to the harbors of Elath and “‘Esjongeber. 
From Ma‘an northward this road remains on the border between the 
settlers and the nomads, between the cultivated land and the wilderness; 
it therefore could be called the road of ‘Araba, or the road leading along the 
borders of Arabia, for the Assyrian sources give the name of Arubi, Aribi, 
partly to the nomads and partly to the wilderness which they frequent. 
According to Numbers, 21: 10, it was by this road that the Israelites 
reached Obot and, farther on, ‘Ijjé ha-“Abarim in the wilderness which 
borders with Moab on the east, and, finally (Num., 21: 12), the stream 
Zared, which forms the eastern border of Moab. These particulars agree 
entirely, if we concede that the road of ‘Araba leading from Elath and 
‘Esjongeber is identical with the modern Pilgrim Route extending along 
the eastern border of Moab and Edom, a branch of which passes from 
Ma‘an through the valley of al-Jitm to al--Akaba, the ancient Elath. 


APP. PaeN DL) TEX> AV. LI 
MOUNT IRAM AND THE ARABS OF THE BIBLE 


Ptolemy, Geography, VI, 7: 27, refers to Aramaua, the first locality 
in Arabia Felix, not far from the Red Sea. It is identical with the Iram 
or Aram mountain range (now Ramm), which likewise formed the northern 
frontier of the Hegaz. 

The poet Lebid, Diwdn (al-Chalidi), p. 25, speaks of the tribes of 
Iram, ‘Ad and Tamitid, who vexed Allah and were destroyed by him as 
a punishment. Lebid saw their mummies in old graves, and he says of 
them that they had covered themselves up and were thus resting in the 
anterooms of the houses. 

Abu Sama, Rawdatejn (Cairo, 1287—1288 A.H.), Vol. 2, p. 7, states 
that as long as the Crusaders had al-Kerak and as-Sowbak in their 
power the Egyptian army, during the march of the pilgrims from Ajla 
to Mecca, encamped by Iram and in the vicinity. — The Egyptian army 
had to beat off the attacks made by the Crusaders on the pilgrims through 
the valleys of al-Jitm and al-Mabrak, through which the roads to the 
Pilgrim Route from Ajla to al-Medina led past Mount Iram. 

Jakat, Mu'gam (Wustenfeld), Vol. 1, p. 212, records that the Prophet 
Mohammed gave the Iram mountain range in fief to the clan of Gi‘al 
of the Gudam tribe and confirmed this for them in a document. According 
to Jakit, this high mountain range rises between Ajla and the desert 
of Tih of the sons of Israel and forms a part of the mountains of the 
Hesma region in the territory of the Gudam. The inhabitants of the 
wilderness stated that in Iram there were vineyards and pine trees. — 

Jakat continually confuses the regions west of the Gulf of al-“-Akaba 
and the rift valley of al-“Araba with the regions situated to the east. 
He therefore locates the desert of Tih to the east of Ajla. The vicinity 
of Iram can be cultivated, and both grapes and pine trees would flourish 
admirably there. It is thus possible that the Arabian nomads saw the 
remains of old vineyards and pine groves in that locality. 

Al-Kazwini, ‘Ag@ib (Cairo, 1821 A. H.), Vol. 1, p. 224, states that the 
members of the ‘Ad tribe had their houses on the peak of Mount Gajs 
Iram in the territory of the Tajj tribe. It is said that statues wrought of 
stone are to be found there. The houses and the statues are weathered 
by wind-blown sand, by heat, and by frost; and many of them can be seen 
in the vicinity of Mount Iram. — In the thirteenth century the great 
chiefs of the Tajj tribe held sway over all the smaller tribes and clans 
from the Dead Sea to the Red Sea. 

In the vicinity of Mount Iram I locate the Biblical Gtr Ba‘al, which 
belonged to the Arabs. Both the Assyrian monuments and the Bible use 
the word “Arab, ‘Arabi, to denote nomad. 

In 2 Chronicles, 9: 14, it is recorded that all the kings of the Arabs 
breught Solomon gold and silver. — Gold and silver were conveyed only 
by the trade caravans, especially those arriving from southwestern Arabia, 


278 


274 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


so that we should expect to find these kings of the Arabs to the south 
of Palestine and to the southeast of the harbor of Elath, which belonged 
to Solomon even after Edom was separated from his kingdom. 

According to 2 Chronicles, 17: 11, the Arabs brought 7700 rams 
and 7700 goats to Joshaphat, king of Judea (873-849 B. C.). Joshaphat 
still held sway over the harbor of Elath and the trade route leading thence 
to the northwest and west. It is therefore probable that annual gifts were 
sent to him by the tribes passing along that route in the trade caravans. 
His son and successor Jehoram (849—842 B. C.) lost Elath and according 
to 2 Chronicles, 21: 16; 22: 1, had to fight against the Philistines and 
Arabs dwelling near the Kushites, who made inroads as far as Judea 
and plundered it. 

The Edomites then gained possession of Elath (2 Chronicles, 21: 
8—10), and the Arab tribes encamped on the peninsula of Sinai were 
certainly incited both by them and the Philistines against Judea. The 
Assyrian records also refer to kings of the Arabs on the peninsula of 
Sinai (Rawlinson, Cuneiform, Vol. 3, pl. 35, no. 4, rev., 1.2; Winckler, Text- 
buch, p. 54.) The Arabs dwelling near the Kushites may be those who 
encamped on the Egyptian border in the western part of the Sinai penin- 
sula; but according to the Biblical view they were also those who en- 
camped with the tribes of southern Arabia near the transport route which 
runs from southwestern Arabia northward, with one branch leading to 
Syria and another to Egypt. This road was guarded by South Arabian 
garrisons. The Arabs are to be sought at the southeastern frontier of the 
Sinai peninsula in the vicinity of Elath. 

This view is upheld by 2 Chronicles, 26: 7, according to which God 
helped Uzziah against the Philistines, against the Arabs dwelling in Gar 
Ba‘al, and against the Me‘tinites. Uzziah (779—740 B. C.) reconquered 
Elath and in consequence became involved in dispute with the Philistines 
and the Me‘tinites. The Philistines owned Gaza, a city to which the trade 
caravans from southwestern Arabia conveyed their goods. The transport 
routes to Gaza led from Elath and the oasis of Ma‘an or Ma‘én. The 
term Me‘tnites denotes partly the inhabitants of the settlement of Ma‘6n 
and partly also the garrisons dependent upon this settlement. The latter 
certainly extended as far as the harbor of Elath, to which an important 
branch road led from Ma‘on. As soon as Uzziah was in possession of 
Elath he had control over both roads to Gaza, and he necessarily endeav- 
ored, either in an amicable or a hostile manner, to gain the favor of 
the Me‘tnites and their allies the Arabs to the south and southwest of 
Ma‘on. I identify Gar Ba‘al with the northwestern corner of the territory 
of Hesma. Two old transport routes lead through it, and the whole region 
is covered with isolated mesas known as kur (singular kdra). 

The Bible also refers to the Arabs and consequently to the nomads 
on the northeast and east of Edom. Jeremiah, 25: 23f., threatens destruction 
upon Dedan, Téma, Biz, and all those with shaven heads; and in the 
following verse it is added that all the kings of Arabia and all the king's 
of the Arabs shall perish. 

According to the context the kings of Arabia are the kings of the 
Arabian oases of Dajdan, Tejma, and Biz, while the kings of the Arabs 
denote all the nomads with shaven heads. Even to the present day nearly 


EL PARAN AND PARAN 275 


all the nomads have their heads shaved and leave only a tuft, varying 
in size, at the crown. 

After the Babylonian Captivity the Arabs encamped near the eastern 
border of Judea, for Nehemiah, 4: 1, relates that they, together with 
the Ammonites, prevented the Jews from completing the building of the 
walls of Jerusalem. 

In Isaiah, 13: 20, it is noted that on the site of former Babylon not 
even an Arab (‘arabi) — that is, a nomad satisfied with the worst kind 
of soil — will venture to encamp. 

From the above-mentioned account in 2 Chronicles, 17: 11, as well 
as from Ezekiel, 27: 21, we learn that the Arabs used to breed sheep 
and goats, which they sold to the surrounding settlers. But according to 
Jeremiah, 3: 2, they also engaged in robbery, lying in wait by the roadside 
and watching for anyone whom they could attack and plunder. 


APPENDIX VIII 
EL PARAN AND PARAN 


According to Genesis, 14: 6f., the Babylonian kings destroyed the 
men of Hér in Mount Se‘ir as far.as El Paran, which is situated in the 
desert. They then turned and came to ‘En Mispat, which is Kades, and 
laid waste the whole of the land of the Amalekites and of the Amorites 
dwelling in Hasasoén Tamar, whereupon they encountered the allied kings 
in the lowland of Siddim. — 

The Babylonian kings must have proceeded southward along the 
eastern side of Moab and Edom as far as El Paran, where they turned 
back in a northerly direction and reached the lowland of Siddim by the 
Dead Sea. They certainly followed the great transport route leading from 
Damascus southward, and from it they made raids on the separate set- 
tlements and encampments. This transport route leads through the eastern 
part of Moab and Se‘ir. Through the southern half of the latter a branch 
road leads to the harbor of al-’Akaba, at the northern extremity of the 
gulf of the same name. 

Near al-’'Akaba are situated the ruins of the city of Ajla (Elath) 
which I identify with El Paran of our account. Of El Paran it is stated 
that it lies in the wilderness, or near the wilderness, and this would tally 
with the situation of Elath. At the halting places on the trade route 
and at the harbor of El Paran the kings certainly expected to find an 
abundance of spoil, and, descending by the convenient transport route as 
far as El] Paran, they avoided the troublesome march through the diffi- 
cult passes leading from Mount Se‘ir westward to the territory of the 
Amalekites and Amorites. From the context we may infer that they 
passed through the whole of Mount Seir, turning back near El Paran, 
beyond the borders of this mountain; we may also suppose that El Paran 
did not lie within Mount Se‘ir proper. Proceeding from El Paran toward 


276 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


the north they likewise followed a convenient road, along which, if it 
was the rainy season, they found plenty of pasture for their animals and 
perhaps also numerous flocks belonging to the native population, who 
like to stay in this hot rift valley during the cold season. From al-‘Araba 
the kings could make raids on the separate encampments to the east or 
west, both to ‘En MiSpat, or Kade3, which I locate in the vicinity of 
Petra, as well as to the territory of the Amalekites and Amorites west 
and northwest of ‘En MiSpat. 

The suggestion that we should identify El Paran with the later 
Elath is supported also by the account given in 1 Kings, 11:18. Joab, 
David’s captain, conquered Edom and had every member of the king’s 
family murdered. The royal servants protected Hadad, one of the sons 
of the king of Edom, and, wishing to escape with him to Egypt, departed 
from Madian and reached Paran. Taking people with them from Paran, 
they arrived in Egypt. 

From the context it may be supposed that the servants were seek- 
ing a refuge for Hadad in Madian but that they did not stay long there. 
The ruler of Madian could not protect Hadad if he did not wish to lose 
the profit he derived from accompanying the trade caravans, which had 
either to pass through Edom or at least to go round it. The same was 
the case with the other tribes encamping on the borders of Edom and 
even with the southern Arabian commanders guarding the separate stop- 
ping places on the great transport route. This was known to the pro- 
tectors of Hadad, and they therefore fled with him to Egypt, the only 
land where he could obtain not only complete safety but also help in re- 
covering his father’s inheritance. In order not to attract attention to 
themselves, they did not join any of the large trade caravans but fled 
alone with Hadad. They certainly passed along the transport route, upon 
which there were wells and where, because it was the usual route, they 
were not so conspicuous. From 2 King's, 16: 6 and 2 Chronicles, 28: 17, it 
appears that Edom proper lay to the east of al--Araba. The later kings 
of Judea held Elath, although Edom did not belong to them; the people 
of Edom, however, finally took Elath itself away from them, though 
they were unable to gain possession of the territory to the south of 
Judea and to the west of al-‘Araba. We must therefore locate the center 
of the Madianites beyond the reach of Joab’s army, i. e. not to the west 
but to the southeast of Elath. 

Through this center passed a branch road of the main transport 
route from southern Arabia to Egypt, running thence to the present 
settlement of al-‘Akaba (the ancient Ajla or Elath). Proceeding along 
it, the king’s servants crossed the rift valley of al-‘Araba at Elath. They 
certainly did not cross farther to the north, because they would then 
have reached Edom (Se‘ir), which extended as far as the ridge of Mount 
Se‘ir. They would have naturally avoided such a northerly route, not 
wishing again to incur the danger of being caught by Joab’s spies. If 
we grant that they crossed al-’Araba at the present settlement of al- 
‘Akaba, then we may, and in fact must, locate Paran there also. And even 
if this Paran is not exactly identical with Elath, it lay at any rate in the 
closest vicinity to it or in any case in the southern part of al-‘Araba. 

From there the fugitives took guides as well as protectors against 
the tribes encamping between Edom and Egypt. — In a settlement through 


EL PARAN AND PARAN 277 


which, or in the immediate neighborhood of which, the caravans passed, 
such guides were and still are easier to find than at a distance in the 
desert. 

From the context it cannot be decided whether Madian denotes the 
settlement, the tribe, or the territory of the tribe. All these interpreta- 
tions are possible, and none of them can be wholly rejected. But, what- 
ever it may denote, Madian must be located outside Edom and to the 
south of it, as we cannot suppose that the servants would have ventured, 
accompanied as they were by the king’s son, to penetrate to Paran 
through Edom, which was occupied by Joab’s army. Paran was situated 
between Egypt and Edom and thus to the west of Edom proper. Further- 
more, Paran may have been not only a settlement but also a territory 
which did not belong, however, to Edom and was as yet unoccupied 
by Joab. 

The harbor of Elath, with which I identify El Paran, or Paran, is 
not situated in Edom proper and certainly never belonged exclusively 
to it. The inhabitants of the port, as well as those in charge of the 
transport routes, whether southern Arabians or others dwelling and en- 
camping to the southeast, east, west, and northwest of Elath, took care 
that the garrison of Edom should not fortify itself there and that the 
Edomite officials should not retain the payments which they themselves 
received. From the Biblical accounts we see that the Edomites held 
authority in Elath only temporarily. At the time when Joab occupied 
Elath he controlled al-‘Araba as far as the Red Sea, and a secret journey 
from east to west to Egypt would therefore have been very dangerous 
and even impossible. Hence, it must be supposed that the servants saved 
Hadad before the army of Judea had reached the Red Sea. If we judge 
Paran to be a locality, then we must identify it with El] Paran and 
Elath; but if we decide that in our account it denotes a larger territory, 
then we must locate it in al--Araba and must locate the place where 
the servants crossed the rift valley with Hadad on the transport route 
not far from Elath. 

In 1 Samuel, 25: 1f., it is stated that David ascended from Engadi 
into the mountains; whereupon he went down into the wilderness of Paran, 
whence he sent messengers to Nabal, the husband of Abigail, at Maon. 

The positions of Engadi on the western shore of the Dead Sea, and 
of Maon to the southwest of it, are known. The rift valley of al-“Araba, 
the southern part of which we identify with the Biblical territory of 
Paran, extends from the Red Sea to the Dead Sea, so that we might lo- 
cate the wilderness of Paran, where David stayed with his men, in this 
lowland. But it would seem that the word Paran found its way into this 
account owing to an inaccurate transcription of the word Maon. This 
might very easily happen because of the great similarity of the two first 
consonants in the ancient script. Even if, however, we insist upon Paran, 
it is not necessary for us to extend the wilderness of Paran to the Dead 
Sea itself: we may admit that the shepherds in charge of Nabal’s flocks 
remained during the rainy season in the rift valley of al-“Araba at some 
distance from Maon and that David protected them from the raids of 
various nomads. Although we should thus not gain absolute certainty as 
to where the Paran of this account should be located, yet we see that 
we are led by it into al-’Araba or at least to its border. 


278 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


This is also where we arrive by considering the early encampments 
of Ishmael, who, according to Genesis, ‘21: 21, settled in the wilderness 
of Paran. According to the Assyrian and Biblical accounts, Ishmael’s 
descendants encamped from the Egyptian frontiers and the northern gulf 
of the Red Sea as far as Dfiimat al-Gandal, and al-‘Araba, or Paran, 
formed a kind of center from which they spread both to the west and 
to the east. 

In the accounts of the migrations of the Israelites from Mount 
Sinai to the Promised Land there are references to Paran, and not a 
single one of them is at variance with our identification. 

According to Numbers, 10: 12, the Israelites, having departed from 
the wilderness of Sinai, encamped in the wilderness of Paran; according 
to Numbers, 18: 8, Moses sent spies from there to the Promised Land. 
These proceeded from Paran to Sin and returned (Num., 13: 26) to “the 
wilderness of Paran, which is Kades.”’ — 

The wilderness of Sin is the name of the territory extending west- 
ward from northern Se‘ir and southward from Palestine. The spies, 
wishing to become acquainted with the Promised Land (that is Palestine 
proper) proceeded from Paran to Sin. This is entirely possible if we 
identify Paran with the southern half of al--Araba. The spies proceeded 
to the northwest and came to the Biblical wilderness of Sin and, farther, to 
the southern part of Palestine and the mountain of the Amorites. Return- 
ing, they came back to the wilderness of Paran, or Kades, which we 
locate in the vicinity of Petra, on the borders of Paran and Sin. 

The sojourn of the Israelites in Paran is mentioned in Deuteronomy, 
33: 2, where it is recorded that Jehovah came from Sinai and shone upon 
his people from Seir, gleaming from Mount Paran, coming from Meribat 
Kades. This repeats in other words Habakkuk, 3: 3, where it is stated 
that God came from Tém4an and the Holy One from Mount Paran. — 

Mount Paran here denotes the broken plateau enclosing al-“Araba 
on the east and extending as far as the foot of Mount Seiir. 


ASPEN: DED ear 


THE CITY OF MADIAN, THE MADIANITES, 
AND THE MOUNTAIN OF GOD 


THE CITY OF MADIAN 


Flavius Josephus, Avchaeologia (Naber), II, 257, writes that Moses 
fled to the city of Madiana opposite the Red Sea. — This shows that 
in the first century of our era the city of Madian was commonly known. 
The old Madianite settlement of Hawra near the oasis of al-Bed° was not 
enlarged and fortified by the Nabataeans until about the first century 
before Christ. Thus we can understand why it is that the older writers are 
silent about it, although they are well acquainted with the region in which 
Madian is situated. 


THE CITY OF MADIAN 279 


Ptolemy, Geography, VI, 7: 27, records on the northwestern border 
of Arabia Felix a settlement Madiama, which I identify with Madian. 

Eusebius, Onomasticon (Klostermann), p. 124, notes that Madiam, 
a town called after one of the sons of Abraham by Keturah, is situated 
beyond Arabia in the south, in the desert of the Saracens to the east 
of the Red Sea. — Eusebius and Jerome (see op. cit., p. 125) locate the 
city of Madian beyond the border of the province of Arabia, the fixed 
southern frontier of which would correspond approximately with the 
northern border of Arabia Felix and the southern foot of the aS-Sera’ 
range. 

According to the Koran, 11: 85; 22: 43; 29:35 f.; 50: 18, the preacher 
Su‘ejb came to the inhabitants of Madjan or the inhabitants of the 
woods (ahl al-ajka), and rebuked them for their idolatry and for various 
social shortcomings. As they would not listen to him, they were struck 
by a sudden blow, so that they all fell dead in their houses. 

Some traditions say (at-Tabari, Ta’rih, [De Goeje], Ser. 1, p. 458) 
that Moses departed from Egypt to Madjan, a distance of nine night, 
encampments, or, as it was said, about as far as from al-Kifa to al-Basra. 
Having no food, he lived on the leaves of perennials and journeyed bare- 
footed, so that he reached Madjan with lacerated feet. 

Ibn Hisam, Siva, (Wustenfeld), Vol. 1, p. 994, records that after the 
expedition against the Gudam in Hesma, Zejd ibn Hareta, at the order 
of Mohammed, made an inroad in the direction of Madjan and returned 
with numerous prisoners from the harbor situated on the inhabited shore. 
— The account does not state whether Zejd reached the city of Madjan ; 
but, since reference is made to the harbor in connection with Madjan, 
we must suppose that Zejd gained possession of the harbor of that place, 
though, it is true, the latter was situated nearly forty-three kilometers 
from the city, perhaps near the mouth of the al-Kijal valley. The shore 
of the Gulf of al-‘Akaba is much nearer, scarcely twenty-five kilometers 
distant from the city, but the journey thither is difficult whether by land 
or sea. The sea passage is dangerous on account of the rocks restricting 
access from the Red Sea into the gulf, in which there is neither safe 
landing place nor anchorage. Ptolemy, Geography, VI, 7: 2, refers to the 
harbor of Madian south of the city of Madian and thus beyond the Gulf 
of al--Akaba. 

Ibn Hordadbeh, Masdlik (De Goeje), p. 129, and Ibn Roste, A‘lak 
(De Goeje), p. 177, mention among the districts belonging to the city 
of al-Medina the areas of al-Fur’, Du-l-Marwa, Wadi al-Kura’, Madjan, 
and Hajbar. 

At the time of al-Ja‘ktbi (Bulddn [De Goeje], p. 341) there were 
living in the ancient town of Madjan people of various tribes, who 
cultivated gardens and date palms irrigated by numerous wells and streams 
with fairly good water. 

Al-Hamdani, Sifa (Miller), p. 129, refers to Madjan in the territory 
of the Gudam tribe. 

Al-Mukaddasi, Ahsan (De Goeje), p. 155, does not reckon Madjan 
among the districts of al-Medina but assigns it to the Syrian district 
of aS-Sera’ with the principal city of Sorar, to which belong also Moab, 
ar-Rabba, Ma‘an, Tebtk, Adruh, Wajla (Ajla). Elsewhere (ibid., p. 178) he 
states that Madjan actually forms the borderland of the Hegaz, as all 


280 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


the places enclosed by the sea belong to the peninsula of Arabia. In his 
time they exhibited a stone at Madjan, which Moses lifted when he wished 
to water the flocks of sheep and goats belonging to Su‘ejb. Plenty of 
water was found there. The inhabitants used Syrian weights and measures. — 
Thus, according to al-Mukaddasi, the district of as-Sera’ extended from 
the stream of al-Mégeb, the northern frontier of Moab, in the north, 
to south of Tebik. The effect of incorporating Tebtik and Madjan in the 
administrative district of Syria was that both places were regarded as 
part of Syria. The northern frontier of the Hegaz was thus often changed, 
the determining criterion sometimes being the natural and sometimes the 
administrative border. 

Al-Bekri, Mu‘gam (Wistenfeld), p. 516, assigns to Syria the settle- 
ment of Madjan on the highroad leading to Gaza. It is said that the 
Prophet despatched an expedition against Madjan, which was led by Zejd 
ibn Hareta. Zejd returned with numerous prisoners from the harbor 
(mina) —- for according to Ibn Ishak mina denotes shore. 

According to Ibn “Abbas (al-Bekri, op. cit., p. 185; see az-Zabidi, 
Tag al-artis [Balak, 1807—1308 A. H.], Vol. 7, pp. 104f.; Ibn Manzftr, 
Lisdén al-“Arab [Btilak, 1800—1307 A. H.], Vol. 12, pp. 274 f.) the woods 
of al-Ajka mentioned in the Koran, in which the kinsmen of Su‘ejb 
encamped, extended either between Madjan, Sarab, and Bada’ or between 
Madjan and the shore. It was formed of low, luxuriant dim palms. 

Down to the present day the whole valley between al-Bed* and the 
sea is covered with thickets, from which project numerous dim palms. 
But the road from Madjan to Bada’ also leads through several oases 
which are well watered and thus well provided with vegetation ; formerly 
these also belonged to the people of Madjan. There is an interesting 
statement (Ibn Manzitr, Lisdn al-‘Arab, loc. cit.) to the effect that the 
word al-Ajka means thicket and Lajka a neighboring settlement. Lajka 
recalls the Greek lewke (Aevx,), meaning white; and the part of the ruins 
of Madian bordering on the thickets is still called Hawra, which also 
means white. 

Al-Idrisi, Nuzha, III, 5, following al-Balhi, states that the distance 
between the towns of Madjan and Ajla was five days’ march and between 
Madjan and Tebtk, situated to the eastward, six days’ march. In his 
time (1154 A. D.) the town of Madjan was greater than Tebtk; a well 
was exhibited there from which Moses watered the cattle. — According 
to this, it appears that there were two highroads which crossed at Madjan, 
the first running from Palestine and Egypt by way of Ajla along the 
seashore southward with branch roads to al-Medina and Mecca, and the 
second running eastward to Tebtak and thence to Tejma, or al-Hegr. — 
From Madjan to Ajla is about 125, and to Tebik about 140 kilometers, 
so that al-Balhi gives distances both as traversed by trade caravans 
and by travelers proceeding at a slow pace. 

Jakat, Mu'gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 4, p. 451, records various reports 
about Madjan. He writes that according to Abu Zejd al-Balhi (died 931 
A. D.) Madjan is situated by the Kolzum Sea opposite Tebtk, at a distance 
of six days’ march. It is larger than Tebak and contains a well from 
which Moses watered the flocks of Su‘ejb. Al-Balhi himself inspected 
this well, above which a house had been built. The inhabitants of Madjan 
obtained water from the well. Madjan originally was the name of the 


THE CITY OF MADIAN 281 


tribe to which belonged Su‘ejb’s fellow countrymen, who asserted that 
they were descended from Madjan, the son of Abraham. Muhammed ibn 
Salama ibn Ga‘far al-Kuda‘i (died 1062 A. D.) reckoned Madjan with its 
environs among the districts of*southern Egypt. Muhammed ibn Misa 
al-Hazimi (died 1188 A. D.) said that Madjan was situated between Wadi 
al-Kura’ and Syria. The poet Kutejjer mentions the monks in Madjan. 

Al-Kazwini, “Ag@ib (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 2, p. 178, calls the town of 
Madjan the trade center for Tebtik between al-Medina and Syria. It 
contained a well from which Moses watered Su‘ejb’s sheep. He was told 
that this well had been covered and a house built above it, to which the 
pilgrims used to go. — According to this report it appears that the trade 
caravans proceeded along the road by the sea, and the inhabitants of 
the town of Tebtk obtained their supplies in Madjan, situated on the 
second highroad mentioned by al-Idrisi (loc. cit.). 

Ahmed al-Makrizi made two pilgrimages to Mecca and thus visited 
Madjan. In the work entitled al-Mawdiz (Codex Vindobonensis, No. 908 
[A.F.69], Vol. 1, fol.10v., 36v., 184v.; Wiet’s edit., Vol.1, p.811) he includes 
in the Egyptian province of al-Kible the following districts of the Hegaz: 
at-Tir, Faran, Ajla, Madjan, al-‘Uwajnid, al-Hawra, Bada’, and Sarab. 
According to him the settlement of Madjan is situated by the Gulf of 
Kolzum, five days’ march from Ajla. It affords its inhabitants only a 
modest livelihood, and trade does not prosper. Various strange memorials 
and huge buildings were exhibited there. — 

It is interesting that even the districts of at-Tar and Faran, though 
situated on the peninsula of Sinai, are here officially reckoned with the 
Hegaz. Faran is identical with the town of Taran referred to on page 61 
of Wiet’s edition ; Taran is here an error, the correct spelling being Medine 
Faran, inasmuch as the island of Taran is out of the question. In the 
Codex Vindobonensis, fol. 10 v., occurs a passage to the effect that the town 
of Faran is situated between the towns of al-Kolzum and Ajla. Equally 
incorrect is the spelling in Wiet’s edition al--Awnid for al--Uwajnid, as 
is shown by a note in the manuscript L 38 (in the library of the University 
of Leiden, sig. 828; see note 21 in Wiet’s edition, Vol. 1, p. 311) where 
the first consonant is provided with the vowel wu, indicating a diminutive ; 
furthermore, the natives say al--Uwejned or “Wejned. 

At the beginning of the fifteenth century, therefore, the once 
renowned town of Madian survived merely as a wretched settlement. The 
huge buildings which al-Makrizi mentions are perhaps the Nabataean 
burial places cut out from the surrounding rocks. 

Haggi Halfa, Gihadn numa (Constantinople, 1145 A. H.), p. 525, 
describes Madjan as a ruined town on the shore, situated six days’ march 
to the west of Tebtik. Not far away the people exhibited a rock from 
which water gushed forth at the command of Moses. Many etel and mukl 
trees grew there, together with date palms. In the valley there were 
ruined walls and also stone slabs, upon which were cut the names of 
various kings. — 

The statement about the rock from which water gushed forth at 
the command of Moses is of late origin, for in the earlier centuries this 
rock had been exhibited near Petra. The boulder in question is situated 
to the west of the burial place, but no water flows from it or near it. 
The stone slabs with the inscriptions on them referred to by Haggi Halfa 


282 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


are possibly the smoothly cut rocky walls of the separate graves, upon 
which here and there the remains of Nabataean inscriptions are visible. It is 
perhaps possible, however, that at the time of Haggi Halfa there were 
actually exhibited at Madian stone slabs*with ancient inscriptions covering 
the separate tombs. The present natives have no knowledge of such slabs 
and are not aware of any place which contained stones and inscriptions. 

The halting place of al-Bed‘ is called Mordjer Su‘ejb, because the 
Prophet Su‘ejb is said to have lived there in caves, in one of which he 
worshiped God upon a large, flat stone. Somebody who had been there 
explained to “Abdalrani that he noticed a pleasant fragrance, which led 
him to a cave where he found a coffin with a corpse swathed in linen. 
The corpse emitted a pleasant odor and radiated a luster which aroused 
reverence (‘Abdalrani an-Nabulusi [1698], Hakika, Codex Vindobonensis, 
Nos 2695 UMxt-. CL2 | eVGLe2 tole 2a s). 


THE TRIBE OF MADIAN 


In the environs of the oasis of al-Bed’ I locate the settlements of 
the tribe of Madian. According to the Bible the Madianites belonged to 
the descendants of Abraham by Keturah. Reference to these descendants 
is also made in the Assyrian records, but there are not enough particulars 
given in these records to enable us precisely to fix the limits of the area they 
occupied in the south and east. The Assyrian and Biblical records place 
their camps and settlements to the south and southwest of Ma‘on (Ma‘an) 
as well as to the east and southeast of the Gulf of al-“Akaba. The south- 
ernmost of their settlements hitherto known was the oasis of Dedan, 
or the modern al-‘Ela’. Their main group, those known as Madianites, 
were encamped in the region of Hesma and in the neighboring territories ; 
that is to say, where the classical writers also located the Madianites. 

There is an interesting remark in Genesis, 25:6, that the descendants 
of Abraham by Keturah during Abraham’s lifetime went ‘eastward into the 
land of Kedem (eastern land).’’ As Abraham and Isaac dwelt in southern 
Palestine and in the northern part of the Sinai peninsula, the descendants 
in question left the Sinai peninsula and went ‘‘eastward into the eastern 
land.”’ This phrase is still used by the present-day camel breeders. Among 
the Bedouins Sevk denotes the interior of the desert as well as the east. 
If at the end of August they leave the border of the inhabited territory, 
“they go eastward into the eastern land, sarrakaw,” irrespective of the 
direction they take. If the Rwala go “eastward into the eastern land,” 
they usually proceed in a southerly or southeasterly direction; while the 
‘Amarat, camping westward of Babylon, go “eastward into the eastern 
land” but in reality make their way to the west. Similarly the Hebrew 
kedem must not always be translated by the word “east,” because it 
frequently denotes also the interior of the desert. Thus the meaning of 
Genesis, 25: 6, is that the descendants of Abraham by Keturah left the 
Sinai peninsula and proceeded into the interior of the desert, kedem. We 
cannot seek their camps and settlements west of the rift valley of al- 
“Araba. 

The Bible refers to Madianites in two regions completely separated 
and at some distance from each other. The first one may be defined 
fairly closely. It is situated to the east and northeast of the Dead Sea. 


THE TRIBE OF MADIAN 283 


Although the position of the second cannot certainly be recognized from 
the Biblical account, it undoubtedly must be placed to the south and 
southeast of Edom, to which region Assyrian and classical indications point. 

Genesis, 387: 25, relates that Ishmaelite merchants came from Gilead 
on camels, bringing various fragrant spices to Egypt, and arrived at the 
well into which the sons of Jacob had cast their brother Joseph. According 
to Genesis, 37: 28, the Madianite merchants drew him out, bought him, 
and took him to Egypt. The names Madianite and Ishmaelite would here 
seem to be used interchangeably. The trade caravan bearing fragrant 
spices to Egypt had perhaps branched off through Gilead from the main 
transport route leading from southern Arabia to Phoenicia and Damascus. 
It is impossible therefore to say with certainty that it proceeded from 
Gilead and that the Madianites encamped there. If the trade caravan had 
branched off from the transport route connecting the south with the 
north, there might have been both Ishmaelites and Madianites in it. 
Whether the fragrant spices belonged to these Madianite and Ishmaelite 
merchants or to a south Arabian wholesale trader, the Bible does not say. 
We do not know what fragrant spices are here meant, for the Ishmaelites 
and Madianites could have collected fragrant resin from terebinth and 
various species of acacia, which likewise were sold and still are sold 
in Egypt. Instead of Madianite merchants, we might have expected Sabaeans 
or else Ma‘onites, or Me‘tnites (to give the variant form of the name of 
the inhabitants of the south Arabian halting place of Ma‘6n). It is impossible 
to say precisely whence these Madianites came, whether from the region 
to the northeast of the Dead Sea or from that to the south of Edom, 
since they might have rented their camels to the caravans in whichever 
region they were encamped. 

In Numbers, 22: 4, 7, it is stated that the elders of the Madianites 
made an agreement in northern Moab with the king of Moab against 
Moses and the Israelites. According to Numbers, 25: 17f., the latter are 
urged to wage war upon the former, because the daughters of Madian 
led the Israelites astray at Sittim by Jordan. 

By the orders of Moses (Num., 31: 1—12) the Israelites made an 
expedition against the Madianites, killed four of their kings, captured 
their beasts of burden and their flocks as booty, and set fire to all the 
settlements in their territory and all their encampments. 

According to Joshua, 13: 21, these kings of the Madianites dwelt in 
the land of Sihon, king of Heshbon. — Sihon of Heshbon was not a Moabite 
but a foreigner who had deprived the Moabites of their territory north 
of the Arnon and had settled in the town of Heshbon. It is hence possible 
and extremely probable that the Madianites accompanied him from his 
original country and encamped in the land which they helped him to 
obtain. Nowhere is it stated that they dwelt in towns and settlements 
or that they were engaged in agriculture or handicrafts. The towns which 
they owned were settlements paying them tribute, and the inhabitants 
tilled the soil for them in return for one-half or two-thirds of the 
total yield. 

The Israelites under Moses defeated the Madianites but did not 
- destroy them, for in Judges, 6, there is an account of the fresh sufferings 
which the Israelites endured from the Madianites. The Madianites allied 
themselves with the Amalekites and the Bene Kedem and came with 


284 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


their camels into the Promised Land, ravaging the fields and gardens, 
plundering the sheep, cattle, and asses throughout the country as far as 
Gaza. According to Judges, 6: 38, the Madianites came across the Jordan; 
and according to 7: 24, they fled back across that stream. 

In Judges, 8: 10ff., it is related how two chiefs of the Madianites, 
during their retreat eastward, came from Jordan to Karkor and how 
Gideon pursued them with his men on the “Road of the Nomads” eastward 
from Nobah and Jogbeha. Having taken their camp by surprise, Gideon 
captured the two chiefs, scattered their troops, and (Judg., 8: 13) returned 
home again by the Ascent of Heres. 

This account clearly indicates that it was not only the Madianites 
who harassed the Israelites but that the chiefs of the Madianites were 
leaders of various Bedouin tribes, for Bene Kedem was a current expression 
for camel breeders. When, therefore, these allied tribes ravaged and 
plundered the Promised Land as far as Gaza, it was easy for the Amalek- 
ites to join them. 

The Madianites and the Bene Kedem, to whom, according to the 
Bible, belonged various Ishmaelite tribes encamped to the east of Moab 
and Ammon, came from the east across the Jordan and fled to the east. 
Gideon pursued them upon the “Road of the Nomads.” If a similar 
occurrence were narrated at the present time, I should not hesitate to 
define this “Road of the Nomads.” The territory of an-Nukra extends 
from Damascus as far as the ancient Jabbok, the present stream of 
az-Zerka. To the east it is bordered by the Hawran mountain range and 
volcanic territory which is very difficult of access. To the east of Da- 
mascus, between this volcanic territory and the chain of mountains 
extending from the Antilebanon to the Euphrates, there remains a passage, 
in places only six hundred meters broad, through which it is possible to 
pass easily from the desert to the territory of an-Nukra. A _ similar 
natural gateway affords an opening southeast of Der‘at between the 
southeastern spurs of the Hawran and the broken hills in which az-Zerka 
has its source. Through these two gateways the camel breeders enter 
the territory of an-Nukra from the desert at the end of June, and through 
them at the end of August they return to their desert. The roads leading 
through these gateways (see Jaktt, Mu'gam [ Wiistenfeld], Vol. 2, p. 46; 
Vol. 4, p. 669) used to be and still are called the “Roads of the Nomads.” 
We may therefore locate the Road of the Nomads referred to in Judges, 
8: 11, southeast of Der‘at, to which country the settlements of Nobah 
and Jogbeha also point. The defeated chiefs of the Madianites together 
with their allies, the Bene Kedem, certainly fled along the road leading 
into the depression of Sirhan, in which they found both pasturage and 
water. Knowing that Gideon was pursuing them, they fled a considerable 
distance and encamped by Karkor (which I identify with the modern 
Karkar or Keraker), at the junction of important routes. Here they 
supposed that they had gone far enough and that Gideon would not 
follow them. 

The wells of Keraker are situated in a capacious basin surrounded 
by almost impassable limestone hills, from which only a single, convenient, 
but not very broad, outlet, leads to the depression of Sirhan. Gideon, on 
coming up, stationed some of his men at this outlet, while with the 
others he climbed the hills surrounding the basin, took the camp by 


THE LAND OF MADIAN 285 


surprise, and defeated the enemy. He pursued them as far as the Ascent 
of Heres (which I locate at Darb al-Mnékka), whence he returned. 
Gideon’s companions took from the enemy many gold rings and other 
ornaments, 

The victory of Gideon over the Madianites is recalled in Isaiah, 9: 
3—4 and in Psalms, 83: 9—10. 

Concerning the battles of the Madianites with the Moabites on the 
Moabite plain there is a reference also in Genesis, 36: 35. 

It is difficult to determine who the Madianites were whom the Bible 
mentions as abiding to the east and northeast of the Dead Sea. In Genesis, 
37: 25, 28, the names Madianite and Ishmaelite are used interchangeably, 
and there is a similar confusion in Judges, 8: 24. From this it would 
seem that the Madianite clans may have joined the Ishmaelite clans and 
encamped by the latter’s camping grounds to the east of Moab and Ammon. 
We do not know where these Madianite clans came from, but we may 
suppose that they had migrated from the land of Madian along the great 
transport route running from south to north. They rented their camels 
to the southern Arabian traders, who also hired camels from the Ishmael- 
ites, the northern neighbors of the Madianites; thus they became acquainted 
and in common they harassed both the Moabites and the Israelites. 


THE LAND OF MADIAN 


Where was the land of Madian situated? The Bible refers to it 
for in Exodus, 2: 15, it is recorded that Moses sought a refuge from 
Pharaoh in the land of Madian, where he rested by a well at which the 
daughters of the priest of Madian were watering their flocks. 

We cannot, however, after the manner of the Bible, give the name 
of the land of Madian to the region in which some Madianite clan was 
encamped only from time to time or temporarily, but should apply it to 
the land which formed, as it were, the headquarters of this tribe and 
which had belonged to it from a very early period. 

According to the Biblical account, Moses, fostered by the daughter 
of Pharaoh, committed high treason by murdering an Egyptian official 
and thus setting an example of revolt to the immigrant Israelites. Knowing 
that he was threatened with death, he had to flee not only from Egypt 
proper but also from the bordering territory, to which Egyptian influence 
extended. 

If we acknowledge that the story of Moses has an historical foundation 
we must suppose that Moses fled from Egypt somewhere about the 
beginning of the fifteenth century before Christ. At that time the whole 
of Palestine and a large part of Syria belonged to Egypt. Egyptian 
garrisons guarded the important transport routes on the peninsula of 
Sinai, and the chiefs of all tribes encamped upon this peninsula had to 
obey the Egyptian commanders and officials if they wished to barter, 
sell, or buy anything in Egypt or in southern Palestine. If a political 
culprit were to settle down among them, this would soon be discovered 
by the commander of the nearest frontier garrison, who would order 
the guilty man to be brought immediately before him, if the garrison 
themselves did not wish to incur punishment. So it was at that time 
and so it is still done today. 


286 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


In 1910 I found two men on the southern border of the aS-Sera’ 
range. One was from al-‘AriS, where he had robbed an Egyptian soldier; 
the other from Kal‘at an-Nahl, where he had severely wounded another 
Egyptian soldier. Both of them were in fear of the English commanders 
of the respective garrisons and had fled to the nomads on the Sinai 
peninsula, first of all to the Tijaha, then to the Terabin and “Azzazme, 
and finally to the Héwat; but with no chief could they remain longer 
than three days and a third, the length of time accorded to the guest 
by the law of hospitality, for each chief excused himself for not being 
able to protect them any longer, saying that if he did so, the English 
officers would be angry with him and his tribe and would hinder them 
from trading with Egypt and Egyptian merchants. There was nothing 
left for the two culprits but to seek a refuge to the east of al-Araba, 
which they crossed at the watering place of Radjan. 

If Moses wished to save his life, he likewise had to escape beyond 
the range of Egyptian authority and thus beyond the rift valley of 
al-‘Araba. He did not flee alone through the desert; but, as he was 
disguised, he probably joined some trade caravan, with which he proceeded 
along the transport route eastward and thus reached the land of Madian. 
From what has been said, therefore, it is clear that we must locate the 
land of Madian beyond and to the southeast of al-“Araba. In this we are 
justified by other Biblical reports. 

Moses, when guarding the sheep of his father-in-law Jethro, priest 
of the Madianites, on one occasion (Ex., 8: 1) left the flock, when he came 
to the mountain of God, Horeb. The mountain of God is hence situated 
in the desert of the land of Madian. 

The daughter of Jethro, the wife of Moses, was a Madianite woman 
and yet she is also called a Kushite (Num., 12: 1). 

In Habakkuk, 3: 7, there is a description of how the tents of Kisan 
shook and the tent coverings of the land of Madian trembled. — From this 
it follows that Habakkuk thought of the Madianites as nomads living in 
tents near the Kushites. This tallies with the manner in which the Bible 
speaks of the Madianites, deriving several of their clans both from Abraham 
by Keturah and also from the descendants of Kush. We may assume 
that the camping grounds of the Madianites were in the vicinity of the 
southern Arabian clans, who hailed, according to the Bible, from Kush, 
and that they were also related to these clans. It is possible that the 
priest Jethro was also a member of some southern Arabian clan and had 
settled among the Madianites, who were politically dependent on the 
rulers of the main trading stations on the transport routes leading 
through the land of Madian. These rulers and their garrisons belonged 
to the southern Arabs. 

Moses returned from the land of Madian (Ex., 4: 19—20) on the 
transport route to Egypt, with his wife and sons riding on an ass. He 
likewise joined some caravan and, according to Exodus, 4: 27, met his 
brother Aaron by the mountain of God. Moses also led the Israelites 
into the land of Madian, knowing that they would find a safe refuge there. 

When setting out on the journey to the Promised Land, Moses asked 
Hobab (Num., 10: 29f.), the son of Ra‘uél, a Madianite, to guide the 
Israelites, but Hobab was unwilling to do so. He wished to return home 
to his kindred. 


THE MADIANITE CLANS 2987 


All these passages show that the land of Madian must be located 
beyond the rift valley of al-‘Araba and preferably to the east and south- 
east of the present settlement of al-“Akaba at the former harbor of Ajla 
(Elath), for thither passed the important transport routes guarded by 
the southern Arabian garrison, whose headquarters were the settlements 
of Dedan (al-‘Ela’) and Ma‘6n (Ma‘an). 

That this is the true situation of Madian is attested by 1 Kings, 
11: 18, where it is narrated that the guardians of Hadad, the prince of 
Edom, fled before Joab from Madian to Paran, where they took people 
with them to guide and protect them, and then proceeded to Egypt (see 
above, p. 276). Whether Madian denotes the territory of the tribe or the 
settlement, we cannot locate it elsewhere than to the south or southeast 
of Edom. The southern border of Edom is formed by the southern ridge 
of as-Sera’, or the ancient Se‘ir. Thence Joab was spreading havoc north- 
ward with his army. The servants, wishing to save Hadad, did not flee 
with him either to the northeast or east of Edom but only to the south, 
for they knew that thence alone could they reach Egypt in the quickest 
and safest manner by the route rounding the Gulf of al-‘Akaba. They 
therefore endeavored to reach that route and, hiring guides at Paran 
(which I identify either with El Paran (Elath) or with the rift valley in 
which this settlement is situated), hastened with them to Egypt. These 
considerations show that the Madianites must be located to the east, or 
rather to the southeast, of Paran (Elath), for at any distance north of 
Elath the servants could not have crossed al-'Araba, if they did not 
wish to fall into the hands of Joab’s soldiers. 


THE MADIANITE CLANS OF BIBLICAL AND ASSYRIAN RECORDS 


The Biblical and Assyrian accounts of the various Madianite clans, 
or at least of those related to the Madianites, point to their habitat to 
the south of Edom (Seir). 

Genesis, 25: 1—2, mentions among the descendants of Abraham by 
Keturah the names of Zimran, JokSan, Medan, Madian, Jisbak, and Sfiah. 
According to verse 3 of this chapter, the descendants of JokSan are 
Seba’ and Dedan. From the latter are descended ASStirim, LetiSim, and 
Le’ummim. In verse 4 it is stated that the sons of Madian are ‘Efa’, 
‘Efer, Hanok, Abida‘, and Elda‘a. Genesis, 10: 7, mentions Seba’ and Dedan 
also among the descendants of Kush, and in Genesis, 10: 28—29, Seba’ is 
mentioned, together with Hawila, among the Semitic sons of Joktan. 
From these statements we may suppose that Dedan and Seba’ were in 
touch not only with Kushite Eastern Africa — or the modern Somaliland, 
Abyssinia, and the northern Sidan — but also with northwestern Arabia 
and southern Syria, where Abraham’s kindred dwelt; and it may further 
be assumed that Seba’ exerted a considerable influence also in the 
interior of Arabia: the ancient Hawila or the modern Negd. 

This view is frequently corroborated both by the Biblical and the 
Assyrian accounts. In the second half of the eighth century before Christ 
the Assyrian kings endeavored to extend their sway to the great trade 
route leading through western Arabia from south to north towards Egypt, 
Damascus, and the Phoenician harbor towns. Tiglath Pileser IV subjugated 
the extensive surroundings of the modern Hawran, encroached also farther 


288 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


to the south, and in 733 B. C. his Annals (Layard, Inscriptions, pls. 66, 
72b; Rost, Keilschrifttexte, Vol. 2, pls: 23, 18), lines 218—226, 240 (see 
also Rost, op. cit., Vol. 1, pp. 36, 38, 40, 70), record that from the tribe 
of Mas’a, the city of Téma, and the tribes of Saba, Hajappa, Badana, 
Hatti, and Idiba’il dwelling in the regions of the lands of the west in 
distant settlements, he received as tribute gold, silver, male and female 
camels, and spices of various kinds. He appointed Idibi’il of the land 
of Arubu as resident (képu) to keep him informed about Egypt. He 
separated fifteen settlements in the neighborhood of Askalon from the 
land of Askalon and gave them to Idibi’il. 

In this account we meet with names which are familiar to us also 
from the Bible. The tribe Mas’a is probably identical with the Biblical 
tribe Massa (Gen., 25: 18—14). According to various reports this tribe 
had its encampments to the east or southeast of Moab and did not belong 
to the tribes of the Madianites but to the Ishmaelites. 

By the town of Téma the Assyrian annals mean the oasis of Tejma, 
which, according to the Bible (Gen., 25: 13 f.; Septuagint, 25: 3), belonged 
either to the Ishmaelite clans or else to the descendants of Abraham by 
Keturah. The inhabitants of Tejma were engaged in trading by caravan 
(Job, 6: 19), and they therefore had to send gifts to Tiglath Pileser IV, 
who had control of the trade route leading to the Mediterranean harbors. 


Seba’ or Saba; the Sabaeans 


The Saba are identical with the Biblical Seba’, whose caravans 
together with the caravans of Tejma are referred to in Job, 6: 19. This 
tribe must therefore be located near the oasis of Tejma. To the west of 
Tejma the great transport route leads from southern Arabia to Syria 
and Egypt. This route was at times in the possession of the Sabaeans 
and at times in that of their kinsmen the Minaeans, who shared with 
them the supremacy in southwestern Arabia and thus also the predom- 
inance in the regions through which their caravans journeyed. In all the 
oases on this great transport route the rulers of southwestern Arabia 
had their garrisons and trading centers. These posts were a source of 
gain to the native settlers and tribes camping in the vicinity, to whom 
they supplied both clothing and food and over whom they exercised some 
sort of supremacy. As the home of these important traders was in south- 
western Arabia, whence they had frequent relations with Kushite Africa, 
many Kushites settled among them; thus the Bible is able to attribute 
both them and their settlements on the route in northwestern Arabia 
partly to the descendants of Abraham by Keturah and partly to the 
descendants of Kush. I regard their colonies in northwestern Arabia as 
having been Dajdan, or the Biblical Dedan near the modern oasis of 
al-*Ela’, and also the oasis of Ma‘6n, or the modern Ma‘an. 

The center of the authority of the Sabaeans in northwestern Arabia 
was the oasis of Dajdan, and it is there that I locate the headquarters 
of their governor, kebir, Chief It’amara of the land of Saba, who before 
707 B. C. sent his tribute to King Sargon II (Great inscription of Khor- 
sabad [Botta and Flandin, Monument, Vol. 4, pl. 1452, line 3; Winckler, 
Die Keilschrifttexte Sargon’s, Vol. 2, pl. 65, line 27; see also Winckler, 


THE MADIANITE CLANS 289 


op. cit., Vol. 1, p. 100; Peiser in: Schrader, Keilinschriftliche Bibliothek, 
Vols ai De soa he 

Settled as they were in oases and carrying trade by caravans 
(Job, 6: 19), the Sabaeans were also engaged in breeding camels, goats, 
and sheep, and it was urgently necessary for them to camp in tents, at 
least from time to time. Both their flocks and their caravans were now 
and then attacked by remoter tribes and clans, and therefore they too, 
like all the inhabitants of the oases, were fond of setting out on warlike, 
plundering expeditions, partly to punish the troublesome tribes, partly 
also to satisfy their longing for adventures and to provide themselves 
with camels and other animals. There is an account of such a plundering 
expedition in Job, 1: 14—15. This narrative is entirely probable and shows 
not only that the writer was well acquainted with the habits and customs 
of the Sabaeans but also that we should locate the residence of Job 
near some Sabaean oasis and thus to the southeast of the Dead Sea, 
where their caravans passed. 

Other Biblical writers refer to the tribe of Saba only as traders. 
Ezekiel, 27: 22, records that the traders from Saba and Ra‘ama conveyed 
the best balsam, various precious stones, and gold to the market at Tyre. 

According to Joel, 4: 8, the Jews sold slaves to the Saba nation, 
dwelling afar off. Ezekiel, 38: 18, refers to the trade relations between 
the Saba and the merchants from Tarshish. Isaiah, 60: 6, promises that 
young camels shall come to Zion from Madian and ‘Efa’ bearing gold and 
incense of the Saba traders. From this reference it is clear that the great 
transport route from Saba proper, or southwestern Arabia, passed through 
the territory of the tribes of Madian and ‘Efa; for otherwise the latter 
could not have participated in the trade of Saba. This shows that the 
camping places of the tribes of Madian and ‘Efa must be located some- 
where near the oasis of Tejma. As the inhospitable desert of the Neftd, 
through which no great transport route led, extends to the east of the 
oasis of Tejma, it must further be supposed that these camping places 
were situated to the west of the oasis and thus in the territory through 
which the great transport route of Saba actually passed. 


Hajappa or ‘Bfa’ 


Friedrich Delitzsch, Wo lag das Paradies?, Leipzig, 1881, p. 304, 
identified the Hajappa tribe of the Assyrian annals quite accurately with 
the Biblical tribe of “Efa (Septuagint: Gafa(r) or Gajfa(r) of Isaiah, 60: 6). 
This tribe belonged to the descendants of Abraham who were the kinsmen 
of Saba and formed the first clan of the tribe of Madian (Gen., 25: 4). 
There is a reference to this kinship also in Isaiah, 60: 6. The name ‘Efa has 
still been preserved in the ruin of the ancient temple of Rwafa, as this name 
is pronounced by some clans of the Beni “Atijje, although others, as well 
as all the Hwétat at-Tihama, say Rwafa. The interchange of r and “ with 
r is fairly frequent. Sadar is said instead of sadar, azrak instead of 
azrak (azrak al-‘ajnén), sarrdta instead of sa“dta, takanta’ instead of 
takantar, etc. If the modern pronounciation Rwdfa is correct, we may 
conclude that the ‘Efa tribe had its camping grounds in the territory of 
Hesma. It is impossible to identify ‘Efa with Rajfe (Jakat, Mu‘gam 


290 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


[ Wistenfeld], Vol. 8, p. 829). This Rajfe is situated not far from Bilbejs 
in Egypt, and in the year 733 B.C. the authority of Tiglath Pileser IV 
did not extend at all to the southwest of the town of Gaza. There is not 
a single Biblical or Assyrian record which would imply with certainty 
that any of the tribes of Madian pitched their tents on the Sinai peninsula 
in the first half of the first millennium before Christ. 


Badana 


The tribe of Badana is not referred to elsewhere. The name itself 
recalls the tribe of Bdin, or Mdtin, whose camps are found in the highest 
mountains of the Hegaz to the southeast of the oasis of al-‘Ela’, or the 
former Dajdan. The surrounding tribes assert that these folk are of very 
ancient origin and are related to nobody. A clan of Bdtn, or Mditn, 
dwells near Petra. 

The name Badana is very similar to Badanatha (Pliny, Nat. hist., 
VI, 157), but the reading Badanatha is not certain. There is better 
authority for the form Baclanaza (in Detlefsen’s edition of the Naturalis 
historia, loc. cit). If the reading Badanatha were certain, we might sur- 
mise the inhabitants of the oasis of Bada’, which is to the west of al- 
‘Ela’ (Dajdan) and is mentioned also by Ptolemy, Geography, VI, 7: 30, 
as Badais, and by Stephen of Byzantium, E'thnica (Meineke), p. 155, as 
Badeos. In the whole territory of former Madian there are no ruins of 
a place called Beden, with which Badana was identified by F. P. Dhorme, 
Les pays bibliques et lV’ Assyrie, p. 196. Beden is an incorrect transcription 
of Bed‘, as the classical oasis of Madiama (Madian) is now called, and 
this cannot at the same time be identical with the classical oasis of 
Badanatha. 

The Assyrian name Badana is somewhat like the Hebrew Madan, 
as it is vocalized in the Septuagint version of Genesis, 25: 2. At the 
beginning of a word b is often interchanged with m. According to the 
Bible, Madan is related to the Madianites just as is ‘Efa’, the Assyrian 
Hajappa. The Assyrian record unites the last-named with Badana, thus 
justifying us in assigning Madan or Badana to the Biblical tribe of ‘Efa’ 
and in locating its camping place near the oasis of Tejma: that is to the 
southeast of the present settlement of al-"Akaba, or the ancient Elath. 

The southern Arabian inscriptions likewise record a settlement of 
Madan in northwestern Arabia (Glaser’s inscriptions [collated by Adolf 
Grohmann], National-Bibliothek, Vienna, No. 1288). 


Hatti 


I place the tribe of Hatti in the immediate vicinity of ancient Edom 
upon the basis of Genesis, 26: 34; 36: 2, where reference is made to the 
kinship of the Edomites with the Hatti. It seems that the Hatti, who in 
710 B. C. stirred up strife at Asdod against the Assyrians (Great In- 
scription of Khorsabad [Botta and Flandin, op. cit., Vol. 4, pl. 149, line 10; 
Winckler, op. cit., Vol. 2, pl. 70], lines 95 f.; see also Winckler, op. cit., 
Vol. 1, p. 115; Peiser in: Schrader, op. cit., Vol. 2, p. 64), likewise belonged 
to the same tribe. There is no reason for identifying these two Hatti, 
mentioned in the Bible and the Assyrian sources as dwelling or camping 


THE MADIANITE CLANS Pasbit 


to the south of Palestine, with the Hittites rather than with the Arab 
clan of the Hatti. 


Idiba’il or Adbe’él 


The tribe of Idiba’il and the Képu Idibi’il, to whom Tiglath Pileser IV 
assigned fifteen settlements in the territory of Askalon, are certainly 
the same. Idiba’il, or Idibi’il, was probably the name of the ruling family, 
and a tribe subordinate to it might well be designated by its name. 

The Assyrian Idiba’il is identical with the Biblical tribe Adbe’él, 
which Genesis, 25: 138, includes among the Ishmaelites. Its encampments 
were near and to the southwest of Gaza, near the actual Egyptian 
frontier, and it had to report to the great Assyrian king on whatever 
happened near the frontier. 


Tamudi 


To cite another Assyrian account, we find that Sargon II narrates 
(Cylinder Inscription [Rawlinson, Cuneiform Inscriptions, Vol. 1, pl. 36; 
Lyon, Sargon, p. 4], line 20; see also F. E. Peiser in: Schrader, op. cit., 
Vol. 2, p. 42) that in 715 B.C. he defeated the tribes of the Tamudi, Ibadidi, 
Marsimani, and Hajappa and settled their survivors in Samaria. 

The Tamudi are identical with the classical Thamudeni. Agathar- 
chides, Periplus (Photius’ version [Miuller, Geographi, Vol. 1]), p. 179, 
refers to a stony shore one hundred stades long lying behind the small 
islands situated near the long gulf of the Red Sea and belonging to the 
territory of the Thamudenoi Arabs. The same statement, with minor 
changes, is repeated by Diodorus, Bibliotheca historica, Ill, 44. 

Uranius, Arabica (Miller, Fragmenta, Vol. 4), p. 525, states that 
Thamuda borders upon the Arabian Nabataeans. 

Ptolemy, Geography, VI, 7: 4, mentions the Thamyditai and (op. cit., 
VI, 7: 21) the Thamydenoi in northwestern Arabia. 

According to the inscription on the temple at Rwafa, built between 
the end of the year 166 and the beginning of the year 169 A. D. by the 
“Thamudenon ethnos” or Thamudenic tribe, the Thamudeni owned the 
Harrat al--Awérez and the Harrat ar-Rha’ in the middle of the second 
century of our era. Their encampments were thus to the west of the oasis 
of Tejma near the great trade route leading from southwestern Arabia 
to Syria and Egypt. 

The Moslem tradition asserts (Koran, 7: 71; 26: 141; 54: 28; 91: 13) 
that the Tamtd tribe built rock dwellings in the oasis of al-Hegr. Saleh, 
the messenger of Allah, warned them not to be proud of their earthly 
possessions but to fear Allah. They did not believe him and wanted him 
to attest his message by miracle, but, instead of granting them a miracle, 
Saleh admonished them not to grudge their water to Allah’s camel and 
not to harm it. The people of Tamtd killed the camel at the instigation 
of a wicked man, and there arose a terrible storm which destroyed them 
all. — This tradition tallies with the classical accounts and with the 
inscription at Rwafa. The environs of the oasis of al-Hegr belonged to 
the people of Tamdd, and it is certain that the whole shore also belonged 
to them, for the tribes encamping on the shore had to acknowledge the 


292 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


supremacy of the tribe in whose territory the trade center of al-Hegr 
was situated and who ensured their trade relations. We see that the 
Tamtd tribe, which is mentioned in the Assyrian records, encamped in 
the same territory as the Hajappa, or the Biblical ‘Efa, the name of 
which, as we have seen, is preserved in that of Rwafa. The Bible makes 
no reference to the Tamid tribe. 


Ibadidi or Abida‘ 


I identify the Ibadidi with the Biblical Abida‘, who, according to 
Genesis, 25: 4, was descended from Abraham by Keturah. The second half 
of the word Ibadidi is formed by the name of the deity Dad. In the 
Bible this name, like similar names, was changed into Da‘ in order that 
any offence might thus be obviated. The Abida‘’, and hence also the 
Ibadidi, belonged to the Madianite tribes related to the ‘Efa, and we must 
locate their camping place by the great trade route to the southeast of 
Elath (al--Akaba). 


Marsimani 


The Assyrian record refers to a Marsimani tribe, which is not 
mentioned in the Bible. On the other hand, the classical authors knew 
of a tribe to the southeast of al--Akaba, the name of which recalls the 
Assyrian Marsimani. Agatharchides, Periplus (Photius’ version [Miller, 
Geographi, Vol. 1]), pp. 177—179, mentions a Batmizomaneis tribe on 
the shore to the southeast of the mouth of the Laeanitic Gulf or the 
modern Gulf of al-‘Akaba; and Diodorus, Bibliotheca, III, 48 f., records 
a Banizomaneis tribe in the same region. According to both these authors, 
the neighbors of this tribe on the southeast are the Thamudenoi, our 
people of Tamftd, a circumstance which justifies us not only in connecting 
the Tamtid of the Assyrian inscription with the classical Thamudenoi, 
but also the Marsimani with the Banizomaneis, as the name should be 
transcribed. The Arabic dialects often put z in place of s and inter- 
change b with m. Thus, they say rezdz, Zorar, instead of resds, Sorar; 
and Madh, Tereb, Heseb, instead of Badh, Terem, Hesem. The Assyrian 
Marsimani may therefore be read Barsimani. Furthermore, Bani and Bar 
mean the same thing. This view is confirmed also by Ptolemy, op. cit., 
VI, 7: 21, who mentions a Maisaimaneis tribe in the northwestern part 
of Arabia Felix in the interior of the country. But his statements, whether 
they refer to the interior or to the coast, are not accurate in the case 
of towns and are all the more likely to be erroneous in the case of tribes. 
Agatharchides and Diodorus locate the Thamudi on the coast, while 
Ptolemy places them in the interior of the country; nevertheless in the 
second century they certainly exercised supremacy over the coast. In 
Ptolemy’s spelling of Maisaimaneis, either an n was omitted between 
the first a and 7 or else the first 7 arose through a faulty transcription 
from r. At the beginning of words m is commonly interchanged with b. 
The Aramaic trader, from whom Ptolemy obtained his information about 
northwestern Arabia, might easily have interchanged the Arabic Bani 
with the Aramaic Bar. If we admit the identity of the Maisaimaneis 
and Banizomaneis with the Marsimani of the Assyrian records, we likewise 


THE MADIANITE CLANS 293 


arrive at the region west of the oasis of Tejma and west of the great 
transport route from southern Arabia to Syria and Egypt, and thus at 
the region where the classical writers locate the oasis of Madiama and 
where, according to the Bible, we seek the land of Madian. 

All four of the tribes mentioned by Sargon II in the year 715 B. C. 
may be associated with the Biblical tribes of the Madianites. The Hajappa, 
or ‘Efa, certainly belonged to them; the Ibadidi, or Abida‘, very probably; 
and we may include the Tamudi and Marsimani likewise, considering 
their camping places. According to this identification Sargon’s army made 
an expedition along the trade route southwards, attacked various camps 
and oases of the tribes mentioned, and settled the captured inhabitants 
in devastated Samaria. We cannot tell how deeply the army penetrated, 
but it did not reach either the oasis of Tejma or Dajdan; for, had it 
done so, the Assyrian annalist would certainly have recorded the fact. 
The inroad induced the Sabaean It’amara, whom I infer to have been 
the Sabaean resident at Dajdan, likewise to send gifts to Sargon. 


Other Madianite Tribes 


Concerning the Zimran and Jisbak tribes, among the descendants 
of Abraham by Keturah mentioned in Genesis, 25: 2, we have no other 
accounts either in the Bible or in other ancient records, as far as they 
have been published. 

Joksan is perhaps identical with the descendant of Sem called Joktan, 
from whom the Bible derives the tribes of Central Arabia. Bildad of the 
tribe of Stiah visited the great sufferer Job (Job, 2: 11; 8:1; 18:1; 25: 
tn425-0) ee thevlandvof ‘Us, where Job dwelt, I locate in the neighborhood 
of the modern town of at-Tefile in the northern part of Seir. We may 
therefore also place Bildad’s home, the camping place of the tribe of 
Stiah, on the southeastern or southern border of the Se‘ir mountain range, 
or the ancient Edom, and thus in the area of the Madianite tribes. 

Among the descendants of Madian (Gen., 25: 4) we know that the 
tribe of ‘Efa’, or the Assyrian Hajappa, camped to the west of the oasis 
of Tejma and near the above-mentioned transport route. The name of 
the ‘Efer tribe has perhaps been preserved in the name of the valley of 
al-‘Efar, or al-“Efal, which winds through the oasis of Madian, or the 
modern al-Bed*. We have identified the Abida® with the Assyrian Ibadidi, 
and we locate their camping place between the Tamudi, to whom the 
Harrat al-“Awérez belonged, and the Marsimani, who were masters of the 
oases on the coast to the northwest of al-Mwéleh. Hanok and Elda‘a are 
not mentioned anywhere else. 

We have already discussed Saba’. Concerning the clans of the 
Asstrim, Lettisim, and Le’ummim, the kinsmen of Dajdan, we know nothing. 


Dedan of Dajdan 


To Dedan belonged the oasis of the same name, the modern al-‘Ela’. 
The latter is situated on the great transport route uniting southwestern 
Arabia with Syria and Egypt. From this route another great route here 
branched off along the southern border of the sandy desert of Neftd 
to the interior of Arabia, the Persian Gulf, and Babylon. As we know 


294 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


from inscriptions which have been preserved in the oasis of Dajdan, the 
kings of southwestern Arabia held sway over these great transport routes. 
The population comprised natives and Sabaean emigrants from southern 
Arabia. This explains why the Bible thus derives Dedan, partly (as in 
Genesis, 10: 7) from the Kushites of southern Arabia and partly (as 
Genesis, 25: 1—4) from the Semitic descendants of Abraham by Keturah. 

No reference to Dedan has yet been found in the Assyrian inscriptions. 
It is extremely probable that during the Assyrian period the oasis of 
Dajdan was completely subordinate to the Sabaean kings and that where 
the Assyrian records speak of Saba they mean the Sabaean lord of the 
oasis of Dajdan and not the Sabaean king from southwestern Arabia. 
The Bible very often connects Dedan with Saba (Gen., 10: 7; 25: 3; Ezek., 
38: 18). The great prophets were acquainted with Dedan. In Isaiah, 21: 
13—15, there is a reference to the trade caravans of Dedan, who are 
urged to spend the night in the wilderness in the wood, and the inhabitants 
of the land of Téma are admonished to hasten to them with water and 
bread, because they are thirsty and hungry. — The context shows that 
a great danger threatened Edom and the people of Téman, through 
whose territories passed the transport route upon which the trade caravans 
of Dedan used to proceed. In order to escape the danger they had to 
flee into the wilderness and seek quarters for the night in the wood. 
Fugitive travelers, very sleepy in the nighttime, do not keep watch 
and can easily be attacked. They therefore gladly spend the night in 
the wood — i. e. in a valley or hollow covered with a growth of acacias 
and tamarisks, of which there are many to the southeast of Edom. The 
inhabitants of the land of Téma were to have mercy on the fugitives 
and to offer them water and bread. This is done even today by the 
inhabitants of the oases when they learn that a tribe with whom they 
are on friendly terms has been plundered and is escaping from its enemies. 

In Jeremiah, 25: 23, there is also a record of the danger by which 
Dedan, Téma, and Biz were threatened. The people of Dedan are urged 
to hide themselves in deep basins (Jer., 49: 8). Jeremiah is thinking of 
the basins in the volcanic territory which afford a safe refuge to all 
refugees, each one being generally elliptical in shape, strengthened by 
a natural rampart of lava boulders up to a height of fifty meters, and 
reached only by a narrow footpath, in places artificially made. The foot- 
path is enclosed by boulders, the lava rampart can be held by a few 
defenders, and the pursuing party must return baffled. The volcanic 
territory extends to within two hundred kilometers north of the oasis 
of Dajdan. 

In Ezekiel, 25: 138, Jehovah threatens that he will turn Edom into 
a wilderness from Téman as far as Dedan. Téman is the name of the 
settlement and territory on the northern border of Edom. The latter 
marched on the south with the territory of Dedan. The phrase “from 
Téman as far as Dedan” therefore denotes the whole of Edom from the 
valley of al-Hasa’ as far as the southern foot of the aS-Sera’ range. 

In Ezekiel, 27: 20, it is stated that Dedan sold to Tyre coverings 
for riding saddles. Such coverings are made to this day in the oases of 
al-‘Ela’, Hajbar, and Hajel. Goatskin with long, soft, black fur is tanned 
until it is quite soft and is then decorated and hemmed and placed on 
the saddles of either horses or camels. Before the War of 1914—1918 


THE MADIANITE CLANS 295 


a covering of this kind cost the equivalent of two to ten dollars according 
to quality. 

In southern Arabian inscriptions Dedan is often mentioned as a place 
from which temple servants were imported (Glaser’s inscriptions [collated 
by Adolf Grohmann], National-Bibliothek, Vienna, 942 = 1277, 944 = 1268, 
946 ==.12'7 0 9612.41 69968 =91243, 297457976 =21255), 1025: 

From the inscriptions discovered at Dedan (D. H. Miller, HE’ pigra- 
phische Denkmdler, pp. 1—96) we see that the people of Dedan had not 
only a king of their own but also a southern Arabian resident, who was 
called kebir. The native clan ruling in Dedan is called Lehjan on the 
inscriptions; whereas the residents exercised authority in the name of 
the kings of Ma‘in, or the Minaeans, but no longer in the name of the 
Sabaeans. From this it follows that the Dedan inscriptions are more recent 
than the Assyrian records concerning Saba and date from a period after 
the sixth century before Christ. This is also proved by the Septuagint, 
which frequently refers to the Minaeans. Although the Bible does not 
record the name Lehjan even once, the classical writers are familiar 
with it and from the time of Agatharchides call the Gulf of al--Akaba 
the Laeanitic Gulf. This name is a proof that the Lehjan, or Laeanites, 
held sway not only over the land trade route but also over the maritime 
route leading to Elath and that the Hellenic traders and sailors used 
to pay toll to the Lehjan collectors. This was perhaps the case in the 
fourth and third centuries before Christ, for Agatharchides, who wrote 
about the Red Sea in the second century, knew only the name Laeanitic 
Gulf but says nothing about a Lehjan ruling family. It seems that the 
Nabataeans supported the settlement of al-Hegr to the detriment of the 
southern Arabian colony of Dajdan and that the Lehjan kings from 
the time of their decline settled in al-Hegr. Only thus can we explain 
the record which has been preserved for us by Pliny, Nat. hist., VI, 156, 
who, writing about the town of Hagra, says that it is the royal seat 
of the Laeanites. This record is an extract from some older source now 
lost, for at the time of Pliny the Nabataean king's themselves held sway 
at Hagra. Concerning the native Lehjan kings the classical authors give 
no details. In one southern Arabic inscription (Glaser, 985 1264) the 
settlement of al-Hegr is likewise mentioned. 

Through the decay of the Lehjan the authority of the Tamudi and 
their oasis, al-Hegr, increased, and it would seem that by the action of 
the Nabataeans the transport route from this oasis southward changed 
its direction, passing about seven kilometers to the east of the old oasis 
of Dajdan and thus completing the ruin of that place. Even at the rise 
of Islam the transport and accordingly also the Pilgrim Route led east 
of the oasis of Dajdan, and the latter disappeared both from historical 
and geographical literature. The old town fell into ruins, and about three 
kilometers to the southwest of it another settlement was built, originally 
called Kurh and later al-‘Ela’. Only a few clans of the old Beli tribe 
are still aware that the ruins of al-Hrajbe to the northeast of al-‘Ela’ 
were formerly called Dajdan. This form of the name, recorded by the 
Septuagint instead of the Hebrew Dedan, is mentioned by Jaktit, Mu‘gam 
(Wustenfeld), Vol. 2, p. 689, where he writes that ad-Dajdan is the name 
of a town situated on the transport route from the territory of al-Hegaz 
to al-Belka’, once a place of fine buildings but now in ruins. 


296 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Summary 


The evidence in all the foregoing records, therefore, shows that we 
are justified in locating the camping places of the tribes descended from 
Abraham by Keturah to the south of the Edom range of Se‘ir, or the 
modern a&S-Sera’, and to the west of the sandy desert of Nefid. It is 
there that Flavius Josephus, Archaeologia, II, 257, locates the place Ma- 
diana; Ptolemy, Geography, VI, 7: 27, the settlement of Madiama; Euse- 
bius, Onomasticon (Klostermann), p. 124, the town of Madiam; and the 
Arabic tradition the center of the Madjan tribe. 

The Assyrian records mention the oasis of Téma together with the 
Biblical tribes of Madian. This, with the position of the oasis of Tejma 
to the southeast of the former Se‘ir, strengthens our supposition that 
the inhabitants of the oasis of Tejma likewise belonged to the tribes 
descended from Abraham by Keturah and not to the Ishmaelite tribes. 
The Hebrew text (Gen., 25:15) mentions Téma among the descendants 
of Ishmael, but the Septuagint has in this passage the tribe of Taiman, 
who, according to Biblical accounts, possessed the eastern half of northern 
Edom. In the enumeration of the sons of Abraham by Keturah the Septu- 
agint, in Genesis, 25: 38, records between the accusatives Saban and Daidan, 
also the accusative Taiman. I judge that the nominative of this form 
Taiman is Taima, just as in the case of the preceding Saban the nom- 
inative is Saba, and that in his Hebrew manuscript the translator found 
the tribe of Téma among the tribes of Saba and Dedan, to which they 
actually belong. 

According to this view, Moses sought and found a refuge in the 
land of Madian to the southeast of the harbor of Elath (al-‘Akaba) where 
also was the mountain of God, to which he led the Israelites. 


THE MOUNTAIN OF GOD 


The mountain of God, where the Commandments to the Israelites 
were issued is called both Horeb and Sinai. 

In Exodus, 3: 1, it is narrated that Moses, while guarding the sheep 
of Jethro, his father-in-law, the priest of the Madianites, once drove 
them across the desert and came to the mountain of God, to Horeb. — 
Mount Horeb is therefore situated in the land where the Madianites were 
encamped but at some distance from the place where Jethro dwelt. Know- 
ing that the land of the Madianites was situated to the southeast of the 
northern extremity of the Gulf of al--Akaba, we must locate Mount Horeb 
likewise there. 

According to Deuteronomy, 1: 2, it is possible from Mount Horeb 
to reach KadeS Barne‘a by way of Mount Seiir in eleven days. 

According to Deuteronomy, 1:19, the road to Mount Se‘ir is identical 
with the road to the mountain of the Amorites, upon which the Israelites 
after leaving Horeb passed through a great and terrible wilderness as 
far as Kades Barne‘a. (See above, pp. 263—264.) 

We locate Kades Barne‘a in the vicinity of the famous Petra, and 
we know that Mount Se'‘ir rises to the east of the rift valley of al-“Araba 
close to ruins of Petra, while the mountains of the Amorites extend to 
the northwest of it. The road in question went along the western foot 


THE MOUNTAIN OF GOD 297 


of Mount Se‘ir. But as this range extends from north to south, we know 
that the road must also go in a southerly and northerly direction, and 
this likewise brings us to the southeast of al-’Akaba. Here, therefore, 
we locate Horeb in the land of Madian. The Bible does not say that the 
road in question led through Mount Se‘ir but that it is the road to 
Mount Se‘ir; that is, in a direction towards Mount, Seir. From other 
passages we know that the Israelites, when passing along it, proceeded 
along the very border of Se‘ir, or Edom, but they did not encroach upon 
its cultivated and inhabited parts. Furthermore, this circumstance en- 
tirely tallies with the road leading through the al-Abjaz valley, along 
Mount Iram (Ramm), and by the ruins of al-Homejma to Petra and 
thence farther to the north-northwest. 

According to Deuteronomy, 1:2, from Horeb to Kades Barne‘a is 
eleven days’ march. If we locate Mount Horeb in the vicinity of the se7%b 
of al-Hrob, from there to Kades Barne‘a in the vicinity of Petra is about 
240 kilometers, which quite agrees with the eleven days’ march of goods 
caravans or of migrating nomads. 

It was to Mount Horeb that Elijah hastened when he was _ perse- 
cuted (1 Kings, 19: 8). From the neighborhood of the capital city of Sa- 
maria he proceeded to Beersheba and thence southward. On the day of 
his journey from Beersheba he was miraculously supplied with food and 
drink, and he journeyed for forty days and forty nights to Mount Horeb, 
where he spent the night in a cave. 

The round figure of forty days and forty nights shows that he 
journeyed for a very long time. The statement that he proceeded from 
Beersheba southward proves that he traveled in the direction of Elath, 
or the modern al-’Akaba, and that he thus went to the land of Madian. 
After he had been strengthened by the Lord, he was to return through 
the wilderness to Damascus (1 King's, 19: 15). He accordingly must have 
proceeded by caravan along the great transport route on the eastern 
frontiers of Edom and Moab northward, thus along the “Araba road, 
which the migrating Israelites reached near Ma‘an (Deut., 2: 8). 

These are the only Biblical records from which it is at all possible 
to determine the position of Horeb, the mountain of God. 

From the rock near Horeb Moses obtained water with his rod (Ex., 
17: 6) and upon Horeb the Lord gave him the Commandments for the 
Toracitess( Det 12 6784-010" 4s lene 2°mls 1G 2oeOo + Malachi o.ca)s 
Near Horeb the Israelites prepared the Golden Calf (Psalms, 106: 19), and, 
after they had been punished for that act, they laid aside their orna- 
ments by Mount Horeb (Ex., 33: 6). By Mount Horeb Moses placed the 
stone tablets of the Covenant in the ark (1 Kings, 8: 9). Besides these 
there is no other historical source referring to Horeb. 

It is nowhere stated that Mount Sinai lay in the land of Madian, 
but, if we locate the halting place of Elim (Ex., 16: 1) in El Paran 
(Elath) or in its vicinity in the oasis of ad-Dejr, we find ourselves with 
the migrating Israelites at the northern extremity of the Gulf of al- 
‘Akaba and thus nearly at the frontier of the land of Madian. We must 
accordingly locate Mount Sinai in the same region. 

Exodus, 16: 1, notes that the wilderness of Sin extends from Elim 
to Sinai, and it was through this wilderness that the Israelites proceeded 
to Sinai. From Egypt to Elim their journey had taken them a whole 


298 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


month (Ex., 16:1); from Elim to the camp opposite Mount Sinai it took 
at least sixteen days (Ex., 19: 1 ff.); but they were then advancing much 
more slowly, as they felt themselves in no danger. 

Around Mount Sinai visible bounds were to be set (Ex., 19:12), which 
the people were forbidden to cross under penalty of stoning and death. Sinai 
must, therefore, have been an isolated peak, presumably near the se%b of al- 
Hrob on the northeastern border of the undulating plain of al-Hrajbe. 

According to Exodus, 19: 16, thunder rumbled, lightning flashed, 
a heavy cloud rested on the mountain, and a loud voice of a trumpet 
was heard, so that the people trembled. Moses led the people out of the 
camp (Ex., 19: 17) and drew them up at the foot of the mountain. Mount 
Sinai was entirely wrapped in smoke (Ex., 19: 18) because Jehovah had 
descended upon it in fire, and the smoke from it arose as the smoke from 
a furnace. The cloud rested on the mountain for six days (Ex., 24: 16). — 
Many of these phenomena seem to indicate that Sinai was a volcano, but 
the description is fundamentally different from that of an active volcano. 
Moreover, it cannot be supposed that Moses would have encamped with 
the people in the vicinity of an active volcano. The land of Madian, the 
only place where we can locate Mount Sinai, has always been a notably 
voleanic region. In the southern half of Madian there is an abundance 
of voleanoes, many of which were active not only in the middle of the 
second millennium before Christ but as recently as four to six hundred 
years ago. The poetical description of the phenomena accompanying the 
descent of the Lord upon the mountain must have been taken from actual 
experience, and the punishment incurred by those who crossed the 
bounds and encroached upon the mountain was the usual one among 
the tribes guarding sacred places. Not wishing to touch the culprit, they 
would discharge arrows at him if he was some distance away or throw 
stones at him if he was near by. 

We have no other particulars indicating the position of Mount Sinai. 
In Deuteronomy, 33: 2, it is mentioned that Jehovah came from Sinai 
and shone to his people from Seiir; he gleamed from Mount Paran and 
came from Meribat Kades. — 

Concerning Seir, we know that it extends to the south-southeast 
of the Dead Sea. Paran is situated to the south of the Dead Sea, parallel 
with the southern part of Se‘ir. Meribat Kades is located on the north- 
ern border of Paran near Petra by Se‘ir. As, therefore, all the places 
through which Jehovah passed with the Israelites are situated to the 
south and southeast of the Dead Sea, we must look for Sinai also in the 
same direction, and this brings us to the land of Madian. 

According to Judges, 5: 4—5, Deborah praised Jehovah, who came 
out of Se‘iir and proceeded from the fields of Edom. The mountains 
trembled before Jehovah; even Sinai, before Jehovah, the God of Israel. 

“Even Sinai” is certainly a remark of the expositor. It was thence 
taken by Psalms, 68: 9; but in Psalms, 68: 18, it is directly stated that 
God came from Sinai, and in Nehemiah, 9: 18, it is noted that God des- 
cended upon Mount Sinai, where he gave the laws. — 

From this it is clear that one tradition calls the mountain of God 
Horeb, the other Sinai, but that in both the same place is meant. This 
place must be located in the land of Madian to the southeast of the 
modern settlement of al-‘Akaba. 


SPD HN DD Xe x: 
AL-HEGR 


Strabo, Geography, XVI, 4: 24, relates that Aelius Gallus on his 
march from southern Arabia came through a desert in which there were 
only a few wells to the settlement of Egra, situated in the territory of 
the Nabataean king, Obodas, near the sea. Thence he sailed across with 
his army to Myos Hormos in eleven days and near the town of Koptos 
reached the Nile, down which he sailed to Alexandria. 

Aelius Gallus certainly returned from southern Arabia upon the 
great transport route leading to Syria. Upon this highroad was situated 
the important Nabataean trading center of al-Hegr. Accordingly we 
infer that the Egra mentioned by Strabo is identical with al-Hegr. It is 
true that al-Hegr lies not by the sea, but inland; but near this town 
Aelius Gallus left the trade route and branched off to the coast, upon 
which the port of al-Hegr was situated. It is possible and indeed prob- 
able that this harbor was also called al-Hegr, just as the port of Madjan 
was likewise known as Madjan, and it is perhaps identical with the 
modern harbor of al-Wegh. Strabo nowhere mentions that the Roman 
army returned along the coast. The journey from al-Hegr to its port and 
thence across the Red Sea to the African harbor of Myos Hormos (lat. 
27° N.) could have taken eleven days. In southern Arabia the Romans 
were two days’ march distant from a region whence various spices were 
exported, and from there sixty days’ march brought them to the town 
of Egra. According to Strabo, op. cit., XVI, 4: 4, the trade caravans per- 
formed the journey with spices and incense from the region in question 
to the town of Aelana (or Aila), about 350 kilometers distant from al- 
Hegr, in seventy days. As the figures sixty and seventy are only ap- 
proximate and Aila is about ten days’ march from al-Hegr (Egra), these 
particulars confirm our surmise that Egra is identical with al-Hegr. 

Pliny, Nat. hist., VI, 156, calls Hagra (variants are Agra, Hagrat) 
the royal city of the Laeanites, from whom the gulf also received its 
name. The Laeanites are the Arabian Lehjan, whose name has been pre- 
served in various places of the northern Hegaz. They were the rulers 
of the land before, and perhaps for some time together with, the Naba- 
taeans. Their original center was the oasis of Dajdan, or Dedan, about 
twenty kilometers to the south of al-Hegr. At the beginning of the second 
century before Christ the power of the Nabataeans increased, and they 
spread from north to south, settling in al-Hegr, which gradually sup- 
planted the ancient Dajdan. The Nabataeans in al-Hegr were originally 
subject to the Lehjan, who certainly also resided in al-Hegr as well as 
in Dedan. From this it may be inferred that Hagra, the royal city of 
the Laeanites, is identical with al-Hegr. We cannot locate the capital 
of the Laeanites on the coast, because they were engaged in trading by 
land rather than by sea. Moreover, the great transport route did not 
lead along the coast, and none of the ancient authors, although they 


299 


300 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


were well acquainted with the coast, iieuyoned the royal city of the 
Laeanites as being by the sea. 

The same city is referred to by Pliny, op. cit., VI, 157, as Haegra 
(var., Hegra) in close connection with a reference to the Tamudaei, 
in whose territory al-Hegr was situated. I believe that the Arreni (var., 
Araceni, Arraceni, Anagemi), in whose city Pliny (loc. cit.) asserts 
that all the trade was concentrated, are also identical with the inhabi- 
tants of the city of Hagra or Hegra, or the modern al-Hegr. The work 
of Pliny is a compilation of extracts from various other works, and it is 
not surprising that various accounts are given there of the same city and 
that its name is written in various ways. The northwestern part of 
Arabia Felix, with which Pliny here deals, did not contain at his time 
any city, except al-Hegr, in which it would have been possible to say 
that all the trade was concentrated. 

Ptolemy, Geography, VI, 7: 29, lists the city of Egra between Soaka 
and Salma. Soaka is identical with the modern ruins and oasis of Swak 
140 kilometers to the west, and Salma is the modern Abu Salama, sixty 
kilometers still farther west. 

Stephen of Byzantium, Ethnica (Meineke), Vol. 1, p. 260, refers to 
the Arabian city of Egra by the Ailanitic Gulf. 

At-Tabari, Ta’rih (De Goeje), Ser. 1, p. 215, says that the Tamtd 
resided at al-Hegr and in its environs between the Hegaz and Syria as 
far as Wadi al-Kura’. 

Ibn al-Atir, Kamil (Tornberg), Vol. 2, pp. 3 f., relates a tradition 
concerning a priestess dwelling at al-Hegr, to whom the people journeyed 
from afar in order to ask her counsel in important matters. 

On his expedition to Tebtk, the Prophet Mohammed visited al-Hegr 
(at-Tabari, op. cit., Ser. 1, p. 1697; al-Wakedi, Muhammed [Wellhausen], 
p. 397; Ibn Hisam, Stra [Wistenfeld], Vol. 1, p. 898) and those accompany- 
ing him obtained water from the well there. When they continued their 
journey, the Prophet gave orders that nobody was to drink the water 
obtained at al-Hegr; nor were any ceremonial ablutions to be performed 
in it; and the bread, with the dough of which the water had been mixed, 
was not to be eaten; but the water was to be given to the camels to drink. 

Al-Istahri, Masdlik (De Goeje), p. 19, mentions al-Hegr as a small 
settlement with a few inhabitants, a day’s march distant from al-Kura’ 
in the midst of isolated rocks known as al-Ataleb, in which are the 
houses of the Tamid. 

At the time of al-Mukaddasi, 985 A. D., al-Hegr was a small fortified 
settlement with numerous wells and cultivated fields (Ahsan [De Goeje], 
p. 84). Not far away on a high, rocky level rose a mosque of the Prophet 
Saleh, hollowed out in a rock, and around it were various strange houses 
of the Tamid, the doors of which were adorned with images and inscriptions. 

Al-Bekri, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), p. 270, calls al-Hegr a city of the 
Tamtd located between Syria and the Hegaz. 

Al-Idrisi, Nuzha, III, 5, writes that the fortress of al-Hegr, frequented 
by spirits, is situated a day’s journey from the valley of al-Kura’ among 
rocks known by the natives as al-Ataleb. These rocks are entirely isolated, 
and in them are hollowed out the houses of the Tamtd. Not far away 
is a well. The surrounding region is one of rocks and sand, so that it 
is very difficult to cultivate anything there. From al-Hegr to Tejma is 


AL-HEGR 301 


four days’ march, and from Tejma to the oases of Hajbar, or Dtimat 
al-Gandal, likewise four days’ march. Tejma is three days’ march from 
the Syrian frontier. 

Jakit, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 3, p. 634, relates that Su‘ejb 
with his family dwelt in the land of Madjan; Saleh in the environs of 
al-Hegr; and Hfid, with his fellow-tribesmen the ‘Ad, at al-Ahkaf (in 
southern Arabia). According to Jaktit (op. cit., Vol. 2, p. 208) al-Hegr 
is the name of the houses of the Tamtid in Wadi al-Kura’ between al- 
Medina and Syria. 

Jaktt also gives the name of al-Ataleb to the rocks near al-Hegr, 
and he reckons al-Hegr as part of Wadi al-Kura’; according to others, 
however, it is a day’s journey distant from Wadi al-Kura’. 

Jaktt, op. cit., Vol. 1, p. 115, erroneously transcribes al-Ataleb as 
al-Atalet, as is clearly shown by his explanation that al-Ataleb are 
mountains in the territory of the Tamtid at al-Hegr not far from Wadi 
al-Kura’. 

Ibn Battita, Tuhfa (Defrémery and Sanguinetti), Vol. 1, pp. 259 f., 
at the end of the year 1826 A. D. visited a well with abundant water 
at al-Hegr of the Tamfd, and with admiration he describes the fine 
houses of the Tamtd, hollowed out in the red rocks and provided with 
steps. These houses were as well preserved as if they had been built 
quite recently. Inside the houses could be seen numerous remains of 
bones. Between two rocks he was shown the place where the camel of 
the Prophet Saleh knelt down, as well as the remains of the mosque 
where Saleh used to pray. 

Haggi Halfa, Gihdn numa (Constantinople, 1145 A. H.), p. 521, 
calls al-Hegr, or Keraja Saleh, a rocky, bare region covered with isolated 
hills called Ataleb. In this region sand drifts can be seen here and there. 
About half a day’s march from al-‘Ela’ is the mosque of Saleh, hollowed 
out in a crag, as well as numerous rock dwellings of the Tamtd. 

In Mehmed Edib, Mendzil (Constantinople, 1232 A. H.), p. 79, al- 
Hegr is already known as Medajen Saleh, Kura’ Saleh, or “Adal. It is 
here placed nineteen hours distant from Dar al-Hamra and stated to 
have once belonged to the Tamtd. The buildings at Medajen Saleh are 
large, hollow rocks, in which nobody dwells. At that place there is also 
a stronghold and a reservoir, which is filled from the large well dug in 
the stronghold. The water in the other wells is not fit to drink. Not 
far away rises the mountain called Enan, and on one elevation there is 
a mosque, which the Prophet Saleh hollowed out in the rock. Everywhere 
many fine ruined buildings of the Tamtd nation can be seen. The pilgrims 
at the time of Mehmed Edib (about 1773 A. D.) stayed a whole day there, 
paid the tent bearers their wages, and distributed gifts. 

Often the pilgrims proceeded from al-Hegr by another route (see 
above, p. 295) to avoid the halting place of al-‘Ela’. From Sahl al-Matran 
the stronghold of Zumrud can also be reached. This other road branched 
off from the old trade route at al-Hegr in a southeasterly direction 
through the hollow between the mountains of al-Hawra and al-Baza to 
the plain of al-Mu'‘tedel and through the defile of al--Akejb southward 
to the water of al-Bedaje’, where it rejoined the highroad leading 
to al-‘Ela’. 


APPENDIX XI 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ ACCORDING TO THE CLASSICAL 
AND ARABIC AUTHORS 


THE COAST AND ISLANDS OF THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


According to Agatharchides, Periplus (Photius’ version [Miuller, 
Vol. 1]), pp. 177—179, on leaving the Gulf of Heroopolis, one arrives at 
Nessa, a place so called from the ducks which are found there in large 
numbers. Nessa is situated near a spur of land covered with a thick growth 
of forest, which extends directly to Petra and Palestine, whither the Ger- 
yhaeans and Minaeans, as well as all the Arabs dwelling in the vicinity, 
convey incense. Farther on, the Laeanitic Gulf is reached, near which 
are situated numerous settlements of the Nabataean Arabs, who possess 
not only the coast but also many villages inland in a region well 
populated and incredibly rich in cattle. Beyond the Laeanitic Gulf follows 
the territory of the Bythemani. Extensive, level, and with an abundance 
of water, this region is low-lying and covered with grass, medic, and 
lotus clover, which attains the height of a man. Nothing else is cultivated 
there. In consequence, the country is full of wild camels, as well as of 
flocks of deer, gazelles, sheep, mules, and oxen. But this prosperous 
state of affairs has one disadvantage; the territory also attracts numerous 
lions, wolves, and panthers. From the coast near by a bay extends five 
hundred stades inland, and by it dwell the Batmizomaneis, who hunt land 
animals. Opposite the coast referred to there are three islands, the first 
dedicated to Isis, the second called Sukabya, the third Salydo. These 
islands are all uninhabited, but olives grow upon them, not like ours 
but of species peculiar to these regions. Behind the three islands, which 
are situated outside the bay, extends a long, stony coast belonging to 
the territory of the Thamudenoi Arabs. Along the coast navigation is 
very difficult, as it is more than a thousand stades in length and does 
not contain a single safe or easily accessible harbor nor any actual 
anchorages, protective bays, or islands such as mariners need for shelter. 

Nessa is merely a descriptive noun denoting ‘‘duck island,” and 
Agatharchides does not give the proper name of this place. According 
to other accounts it would seem to be an island identical with the modern 
island of Tiran or Taran. The name “‘Tiran” also denotes some sort of sea 
bird, so that the name “Nessa” is analogous to Tiran. Agatharchides’ spur 
of land extending close to this island is identical with the modern Ras 
al-Kasba, the last spur of the mountain range which encloses the Gulf of 
al-‘Akaba to the east and extends to Petra, the Nabataean capital, and 
farther as far as Palestine. A dense forest covers this mountain range 
in the northern half to as far north as the southern end of the Dead 
Sea. The southern half of the range is bare, except that in the valleys 
there can be seen extensive groves of acacias of various kinds and here 
and there on the slopes other trees, so that even today it could be 


302 


COASTS AND ISLANDS 303 


afforested. The Laeanitic Gulf, the present Gulf of al--Akaba, extends 
from the island of Nessa about one hundred and eighty kilometers to 
the north, and its average width is eighteen kilometers. Not much is left 
of the Nabataean villages once situated near it. Only the small palm 
groves on the coast, the valley dikes for irrigation, and the low garden 
walls inland show that peasants once worked there. The position of the 
territory of the Bythemani cannot be fixed precisely from the statements 
of Agatharchides. He would place it beyond the Laeanitic Gulf, and from 
all accounts it was close to the sea. It is probably identical with the 
lower part of the al-Abjaz valley known as al-‘Efal, or al-“Efar. This is 
a lowland more than fifty kilometers long by twenty kilometers broad 
and bordered on the north and east by high mountains and straggling 
hills. It contains a sufficiency of water, and on the banks of the channels 
of the separate valleys, especially of al-"Efal, there are spacious meadows 
covered with grass and various kinds of clover (nefel). It is not certain 
whether wild camels actually grazed there at one time. In the works of 
no writer using an independent source have I found any reference to 
wild camels in Arabia, and it cannot be believed that they existed in the 
territory of the Bythemani, surrounded as it was by Nabataean settle- 
ments. More probably they were herds of camels grazing freely but 
belonging to definite owners and guarded in the same way as cattle, 
The mules mentioned by Agatharchides might presuppose horses also, 
but there is no reference to them. By deer are perhaps meant white 
antelopes, which are to be seen in the region today also; whereas deer 
proper were and still are unknown. In these regions of Arabia lions are 
completely extinct. There are still many wolves and panthers. The bay 
five hundred stades (79 km.) long, which Agatharchides mentions, is 
identical with the strip of sea seventy-five kilometers long by fifteen 
kilometers broad, which is bordered on the east and north by the coast, 
on the south and west by the shallows, islands, and islets, and which 
extends from Taran eastward and terminates by Cape Msajbe Sarma. 

The coast line of this bay, together with the oases of ‘Ajntna, 
Sarma, Terim, and al-Mwéleh, and the adjacent eastern uplands, belonged 
to the Batmizomani tribe. Of the three islets mentioned, Salydo is 
perhaps identical with the islet of Sela’; Sukabya with Gob‘a, or, as 
it is also pronounced, Job‘a; and the islet dedicated to Isis perhaps 
corresponds to Barkan. The stony shore, stretching for a long distance 
and belonging to the Thamudenoi, extends to the southeast from Cape 
as-Sabha. It has very few bays, and there are only two places, one by 
the settlement of Zbe’ and the other south of al--Wejned, where ships 
can safely anchor. 

According to Diodorus, Bibl. hist., III, 48f., beyond the Cape (at 
the entrance to the Gulf of Herodpolis) it is possible to reach the 
Laeanitic Gulf, near which are situated numerous villages of the so- 
called Nabataean Arabs. These folk dwell for some distance along the 
coast and in quite an extensive region inland, for they are unusually 
numerous and possess an incredible number of cattle. Farther on, there 
extends an irrigated plain, where wild grass, medic, and lotus clover 
grow to the height of a man by the springs which flow on all sides. 
The rich and extensive pastures feed not only innumerable herds of 
cattle of various kinds but also wild camels, deer, and gazelles. These 


304 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


animals attract lions, wolves, and panthers from the wilderness, and the 
shepherds protect their flocks from them day and night. A bay extends 
along these tracts of land and penetrates for nearly five hundred stades 
inland. It is enclosed by mighty cliffs, and the entrance to it is winding 
and difficult of access owing to the isolated rocks. This entrance is 
dominated by a rock projecting into the sea, so that it is often impossible 
to sail into the gulf or to leave it; for if the wind changes at high 
tide, the waves beat against the rocks and are everywhere broken against 
the projecting spur. The inhabitants of the neighboring territory are 
called Banizomeneis. They engage in hunting and eat the flesh of animals 
of the mainland, In this region there is a temple which is reverenced by 
all Arabs. Not far from the coast in question there are situated three 
islands with a number of harbors. The first island, now uninhabited, is 
said to be dedicated to Isis. On it can be traced the foundations of ancient 
stone buildings and columns with barbaric inscriptions. The other islands 
are also uninhabited, but on all of them olives different from our species 
are growing. Beyond them extends a precipitous shore, difficult of access 
and for nearly a thousand stades without a harbor, without an anchorage, 
and without an inlet where sailors could find shelter from danger. Along 
the shore rises a mountain with a rocky ridge which projects to a dizzy 
height and from which mighty boulders have been torn away. At the 
foot of the mountain are sharp rocks close together in the sea, and 
behind them yawn caves eaten away by the waves. These caves are 
connected with one another. As the sea is deep, the waves now penetrate 
into the caverns, now flow out of them again, causing a noise like thunder. 
Many waves beat against the huge rocky boulders, splashing upwards 
and producing an incredible amount of foam. Other waves penetrate into 
the rocky caverns and cause a terrible whirlpool which sucks everything 
into it, so that people who approach these places unawares are ready to 
die of fear. This coast belongs to the Thamudenoi Arabs. — 

Diodorus does not mention either the island of Nessa or the Bythemani. 
The Banizomeneis are identical with the Batmizomaneis of Agatharchides, 
in whose text Banizomeneis (i. e. Bani Zomejn) should likewise be read. 
The entrance to the gulf of the Banizomeneis was probably between the 
island of Taran and Ras al-Kasba. The temple which is revered by all 
the Arabs and to which Diodorus refers is perhaps identical either with 
the sanctuary near Madian or Rwafa, situated to the east of the gulf. 

Artemidorus (Strabo, Geography, XVI, 4: 18) states that from the 
Gulf of Heroopolis it is possible to reach the islet of Phokon, so called 
because of the large number of seals there. Not far from here projects 
a promontory extending toward Petra, the town of the Nabataean Arabs, 
and as far as the land of Palestine, whither (i. e. to Petra) the Minaeans 
and Gerrhaeans, as well as all the neighboring people, convey various 
perfumes. Then comes the Aelanitic Gulf, as well as the land of the 
Nabataeans, which is thickly populated and has plenty of pasturage. 
The Nabataeans dwell, however, also on the islands near by. Here they 
formerly lived in peace but subsequently took to attacking and robbing 
the vessels arriving from Egypt, using rafts for the purpose. But they 
were punished by a fleet which sailed up to their islands and ravaged 
them. There follows a plain covered with trees and irrigated with water, 
full of various grazing animals, including mules, and an abundance of 


COASTS AND ISLANDS B05 


wild camels, deer, and gazelles. Even lions, panthers, and wolves are 
numerous. Opposite this plain is situated the island called Dia. From 
there extends a long bay, for a distance of five hundred stades, surrounded 
by mountains and with a very difficult entrance. The surrounding population 
hunt land animals. Still farther on there are three islands, uninhabited 
but containing olives, not like those in our country but native ones which 
are called Ethiopian olives, the resinous sap of which is used medicinally. 
Then there extends a stony shore and beyond it, for a distance of nearly 
a thousand stades, an inhospitable coast with very rare harbors and 
anchorages. — 

The seal island of Artemidorus is identical with the duck island of 
Agatharchides and thus in all probability with the modern island of Tiran. 
Artemidorus calls the Gulf of al--Akaba the Aelanitic, not the Laeanitic 
Gulf. Both names are accurate. Aelanites is the older name derived 
from the harbor of Ajla or Aela. Laeanites refers to the clan of the 
Lehjan, to whom the whole of the surrounding district belonged from 
the fifth to the third century before Christ. As in the gulf itself there 
are no islands and the Nabataeans from the gulf could not, even on rafts, 
get near to the Egyptian ships which sailed from the Gulf of Heroopolis, 
or Gulf of Suez, we must conclude that according to Artemidorus the 
Nabataeans inhabited the islands situated to the south and southeast of 
the Gulf of al--Akaba. The island of Dia is perhaps identical with the 
island of Senafir. 

Strabo, op. cit., XVI, 4: 26, writes that in the Nabataean land various 
fruits flourish in addition to olives and that the inhabitants use sesame 
oil. The sheep have white wool and the oxen are big. Horses are lacking 
but are replaced by camels. The Nabataeans are clad only in a loin cloth 
without a lower garment and sandals. — 

If there is a lack of horses in the Nabataean land then it can contain 
neither mules or hinnies. The herds of Hhutovec, which according to Agathar- 
chides and Artemidorus (see above pp. 302 and 304) graze in the land 
of the Bythemani, should not, therefore, be translated mules or half-asses, 
but wild asses, of which there used to be large numbers in Arabia. 

Pliny, Nat. hist., VI, 156, describes the “inner” gulf of the Red Sea, 
near which the Laeanitae settled and to which they gave their name. 
Their royal city was called Hagra. Near the gulf, he says, was situated 
the town of Laeana, or, as others say, Aelana, whence the gulf itself 
was called the Laeanitic by some writers, the Aelanitic by others. Thus 
Artemidorus calls it the Aelanitic, while Iuba calls it the Laeanitic. 

Pliny, op. cit., V, 65, writes that one gulf of the Red Sea extending 
to Egypt is called the Heroodpolitic, the other the Aelanitic. The two 
towns of Aelana and Gaza near our sea (the Mediterranean) are 150,000 
paces apart. 

The Laeanitae are identical with the Lehjan, and their main city 
Hagra must, as we have seen, be located at al-Hegr. The city situated 
on the gulf itself was not called Laeana but Aelana or Aela (Aila). 
From it Gaza is 220 kilometers, or nearly 150 Roman miles away. Both 
Agatharchides and Diodorus call the Gulf of al-‘Akaba the Laeanitic, 
Pliny calls it both Laeanitic and Aelanitic, and Strabo only Aelanitic, 
from which we may infer that the Lehjan in the second and first 
centuries before Christ had already made way for the Nabataeans and 


306 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


the older name of Aelanitic, derived from the harbor of Aela, had effaced 
the name Laeanitic. Pliny does not state that the Lehjan were settled 
in his time in the town of Hagra (al-Hegr), which in the middle of 
the first century of our era belonged to the Nabataean kings. The 
sources from which Pliny derived his information correspond to the other 
historical records cited above, and it is not therefore necessary for us 
to assume that he confused the Laeanitic Bay in the Persian Gulf with 
the Aelanitic Gulf in the Red Sea, as was done by Ptolemy, who connects 
the trading center of al-Hagar, situated to the west of the al-Bahrejn 
islands not far from the modern town of al-Hufhtf, with the town of 
al-Hegr, four hundred kilometers southeast of Aela. 

Ptolemy, Geography, V1, 7: 43, places the island of Ainu at long. 65° 45’, 
lat. 27° 20’ N., and, op. cit., VI, 7: 29, the settlement of Aina at long. 75° 40’, 
lat. 27° 20’ N. Thus, as he assigns the island of Ainu and the settlement 
of the same name the same geographical latitude but an entirely different 
longitude, I conclude that the latter has been badly recorded and that 
the two places are identical. If this is so, the island of Ainu must be 
located west of the southeastern corner of the Gulf of al-‘Akaba (Aila) 
at the spot where the modern islet of Tiran (or Taran) is situated. 
Ptolemy recorded its name as Ainu, which in Nabataean was probably 
pronounced Hainu. 

From the third and fourth centuries of our era we have no infor- 
mation about the northern part of the Red Sea and the Gulf of al-’Akaba. 
Malchus of Philadelphia (Miller), pp. 112 ff., was the first to explain 
that in the year 478 A. D. Peter, bishop of the Christian Arabs dwelling 
in tents and known as Saracens, came to Constantinople for the purpose 
of asking the Emperor Leo to grant the rank of a Roman phylarch to 
Amorkesos, chief of the clan of the Nokalians. The chief in question 
had pitched his tents originally in Persian territory; but, whether he 
enjoyed little esteem there or whether he preferred the Roman territory 
to the Persian, he migrated from Persian territory and encamped in 
Arabia near the Persian frontier, whence he was perpetually making 
raids, not against the Romans but against the Saracens. His influence 
became so extensive that he even obtained possession of an island which 
was a Roman dependency. From this island, called Iotabe, he drove away 
the toll gatherers, collected taxes for himself, and became particularly 
rich also by plundering other settlements in the vicinity. Finally he 
wished to become an ally of the Romans and phylarch of the Roman 
Saracens encamping in Arabia Petraea. He accordingly sent Peter, bishop 
of his tribe, to the Emperor Leo. The latter immediately summoned 
Amorkesos to Constantinople, although, according to the conditions of 
the peace treaty concluded with the Persians, no Saracen fugitive from 
the Persian territory was to be allowed to stay in the Roman Empire. 
Amorkesos, under the pretext that he wished to become a Christian, was 
received at Constantinople with great honors. He obtained valuable gifts, 
was appointed phylarch, and was allowed to retain not only the above- 
mentioned island but also numerous other settlements. 

From the following account given by Procopius, the island of Iotabe 
is identical with the duck or seal island and hence also with the modern 
island of Tiran (or Taran). We do not know when a customhouse was 
established there. The actual territory of Amorkesos is likewise unknown 


COASTS AND ISLANDS 07 


tous, because Malchus does not state the name of any tribe but mentions 
only the Arab nomads by the then customary name of Saracens, which 
corresponds with the ancient Bene Kedem and the modern a&s-Serkijje, 
or Bedouins. Before the year 473 A. D. Amorkesos was not a Christian, 
nor does Malchus say whether he ever became one. Peter was the bishop 
of some nomad Arab tribe subdued by Amorkesos. In the interior of 
Arabia the territories of al-Wudijan and al-Hegera were under the Persian 
jurisdiction, and it was from there, probably from al-Hegara, that Amor- 
kesos migrated with his Nokalians. He originally encamped within Roman 
jurisdiction at the oasis of Dtmat al-Gandal, of which he obtained 
possession. From there he made raids upon the Saracens in Palestina 
Tertia (Arabia Petraea) and the territory bordering upon it to the south. 
When he had succeeded, by sailing out on rafts, in obtaining possession 
of the islet of Iotabe and other settlements in the vicinity, he held sway 
over the caravan route uniting Syria with southern Arabia and also over 
the islets and the coasts of the northern part of the Red Sea, in the 
harbors of which the vessels maintaining trade connections between Egypt, 
southern Arabia, and India had to seek shelter every evening. Nowhere 
is it stated that the island of Iotabe had a Roman garrison, and it 
seems that the only people living there were a few traders to whom the 
customs dues were farmed out and who gave receipts for them. A vessel 
which could not produce such an acknowledgment had to pay toll in the 
Roman harbors afresh. 

The island of Iotabe did not remain long in the power of Amorkesos 
and his successors. As early as the year 490 A. D., explains Theophanes, 
Chronographia (Migne), p. 121, the Roman duwz, after stubborn fighting, 
had conquered the island of Jotabe in the Red Sea, from which heavy 
tolls had once been levied for the Roman Emperor but had later been 
appropriated by the Scenitan Arabs. This island was then handed over 
to Roman traders to be administered by them, and they had to pay a fixed 
toll on goods imported from India. 

Procopius, De bello persico, I, 19, also refers to the island of Iotabe. 
According to him the province of Palestine extends as far as the harbor 
city of Aila, situated at the extremity of a very narrow gulf of the 
Red Sea. Those sailing from Aila through this gulf have the Egyptian 
mountains on the right hand extending in a southerly direction, and on 
the left hand the desert stretching a great distance northward. The 
mainland can be observed on both sides, until the island of Iotabe is 
reached at a distance of about a thousand stades from Aila. The inhabitants 
of this island were Hebrews, previously independent but compelled at the 
time of the Emperor Justinian to accept the Roman yoke. Beyond lIotabe 
there is open sea, so that no mainland is visible on the right-hand side, 
and mariners are therefore obliged to keep to the left and to come to 
a halt every evening by the left-hand shore, as it is impossible to sail 
by night owing to the innumerable shallows. There are, however, numerous 
natural harbors, and anchorage can be obtained everywhere. From the 
borders of Palestine this shore belongs to the Saracens, who for a long 
time past have dwelt in an extensive palm oasis inland, where only date 
palms flourish. This oasis was presented by the chief, Abocharab, to the 
Emperor Justinian, who appointed him phylarch of Palestine. Abocharab 
protects this province from all hostile raids, for he is feared not only 


308 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


by his enemies but also, on account of his severity, by the barbarians 
who pay him allegiance. The palm oasis now belongs to the Emperor 
but only nominally, because it can only be reached after a ten days’ 
march through a territory devoid of people or water. — 

Procopius does not state exactly the borders of the province of 
Palestine. A thousand stades (i. e. about 150 kilometers) from Aila, or 
the modern settlement of al--Akaba, brings us through the gulf to Iotabe; 
and this, according to the account given by Procopius, is situated at the 
very entrance to the Gulf of Aila, or the modern Gulf of al-’-Akaba. 
Iotabe, as we have already seen, was the third or fourth name by which 
this islet had been known. The statement made by Procopius, that it then 
belonged to free Hebrew traders, is interesting. They were perhaps the 
original toll gatherers, who as time progressed failed to deliver up the 
collected toll, until they were again compelled to do so during the reign 
of Justinian. The presence of Hebrews on this islet is not strange, for 
at that time there were larger or smaller Hebrew settlements in all the 
cities and in numerous villages in Arabia near by. They could not have 
been independent for long, as in the year 490 A. D. the administration 
of the islet by a Roman commander was renewed. It seems that Iotabe 
and the adjacent eastern islets still belonged to the province of Palestina 
Tertia. It is a pity that Procopius does not define the frontiers more 
carefully. According to him, Palestina Tertia then extended as far as 
the beginning of the Gulf of al-“Akaba, or as far as the northern frontier 
of Arabia called Felix. The Saracens camping on the coast acknowledged 
the supremacy of Abocharab, who ruled over the great palm oasis which 
he offered to the Emperor Justinian. It is exceedingly regrettable that 
Procopius does not give the name of this oasis. His statement that it 
can be reached by a ten days’ march does not help us to fix it more 
closely, because we do not know whether he means the march of camel 
caravans or riders on camels, and we do not know the starting point. 
If we admit the palm oasis is ten days’ march from the shore in the 
vicinity of the islet of Iotabe, to which Procopius has just referred, and 
that he means riders on camels, then ten days’ journey in a northeasterly 
direction at the rate of fifty kilometers a day will bring us to the great 
palm oasis of Diimat al-Gandal (al-Gowf), which from Iotabe is reached by 
a road actually through territory devoid of people or water. The palm 
oasis of Dajdan, or the modern al-‘Ela’, is situated about 360 kilometers 
to the east of Iotabe; but this distance does not tally either with the speed 
of a camel rider or of a goods caravan. Ten days’ march of a trading 
caravan from the shore near the islet of Iotabe in an easterly direction 
leads to the oasis of Tebaik, 180 kilometers away; yet I do not think 
that we can identify Tebuk with the palm oasis referred to by Procopius, 
because the former was never large, and the authority exerted by its 
chief was never equal to that of the rulers of the oasis of al-Gowf, which 
commanded two or three important trade routes. Moreover, the oasis of 
Tebtk is situated comparatively close to the frontiers of the province 
of Palestine, so that connection with it was convenient and the stronger 
dux of that province could easily rule it. 

The Arabic writers do not describe as carefully as the Greeks either 
the Gulf of al--Akaba or the eastern shore of the Red Sea bordering 
upon it or the islets situated near it. 


IN CLASSICAL AUTHORS 309 


Jakat,| Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 4, p. 160, says that the island 
of Taran is dangerous to mariners proceeding from Kolzum to Ajla and 
that al-Gubejlat are situated not far from it. — These Gubejldt (little 
hills) perhaps denote the small islands projecting like hills above the 
surface of the sea to the east of Taran. 

Al-Kazwini, “‘Aga@ib (Cairo, 1821 A. H.), Vol. 1, p. 179, remarks 
that the Beni Gaddan dwell upon the island of Taran, which is situated 
not far from Ajla and is about six miles long. The Beni Gaddan are 
engaged neither in agriculture nor in cattle breeding, have no fresh 
water, and live only on fish. For dwellings they make use of wrecked 
ships, and they beg bread and water from people who sometimes sail 
along the island. By this island there is a rocky spur of land, and near 
it a whirlpool. If a strong wind blows, it is divided in two by the spur 
and sweeps a vessel into one of two gulfs on opposite sides. When the 
wind blows out of these two gulfs, it causes a heavy sea to rise that 
drives a vessel into a whirlpool, from which it never escapes undamaged. 
This rocky spur is perhaps the modern Ras al-Kasba. The report given 
by al-Kazwini recalls the statements of Diodorus, Bibl. hist., III, 48 (see 
above, pp. 303 and 304). 

Al-Makrizi, Mawd‘z (Wiet), Vol. 1, p. 62, relates that in the Sea 
of Kolzum there are fifteen islands, of which four are inhabited. — As 
one of the inhabited islands is called an-Na‘man, we see that his Sea of 
Kolzum denotes not only the Gulf of Suez but also the Red Sea, for 
the island of an-Na‘man is situated at lat. 27° N. well to the south of 
the entrance of the Gulf of Suez. 


CLASSICAL AUTHORITIES ON THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Not many reports about the mainland of the Hegaz have been pre- 
served to us in classical literature. The classical writers were unacquainted 
with the name Hegaz. They speak either of Arabia or Arabia Felix 
(EKudaimon), 

According to Diodorus, op. cit., II, 48, Arabia extends between Syria 
and Egypt and is divided among numerous nations, differing one from 
the other. The eastern regions, consisting in part of a waterless desert, 
in which there is little fertile soil, are inhabited by the tribe of the 
Nabataeans. These people are engaged in robbery, ranging the surround- 
ing neighborhood for plunder, and it is difficult to overcome them in 
war, because at suitable places in the waterless desert they have dug 
cisterns in such a way that no strangers can find them. These Arabs 
are very difficult to subdue and are still independent. — 

Diodorus does not mean the whole of Arabia, but the Arabia later 
known as Petraea, to the east, south, and southwest of the Dead Sea 
on the borders between Syria and Egypt. According to him the Naba- 
taeans owned the eastern strip of this Arabia, that is the mountains 
and plateaus connected with them east of the Dead Sea and east of the 
rift valley of al--Araba. The cisterns which he mentions are the wells 
today known as mkir. These are usually dug out in the rocky soil to 
a depth of about four meters. They are pear-shaped and have a narrow 
neck which is generally covered by a large stone. The rain water from 
the surrounding rocky areas flows into this neck and falls through the 


310 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


cavities beneath the stone into the cistern. A stranger not properly 
acquainted with the region and with the habits of the natives will ride 
round such a rain well without noticing it. Fragments of dry plants and 
sand are apt to drift up against one side of the stone, so that it looks 
as if it has always been lying there. 

Strabo, Geography, XVI, 4: 21, records that Arabia Eudaimon was 
first inhabited by the Nabataeans and Sabaeans, who often made raids 
into Syria before the latter region belonged to the Romans. Elsewhere 
(ibid., XVI, 4: 24) he asserts that the Nabataean realms extended many 
days’ march to the south of Leuke and bordered on the land of Aretas, 
who acknowledged the rule of his kinsman, the Nabataean king Obodas, 
or at least was allied with Obodas. Through this land of Aretas the 
Romans under Aelius Gallus marched for thirty days before they reached 
Sabaean territory. 

All the Nabataeans did not dwell in Arabia Eudaimon, for their 
capital Petra was situated in Arabia Petraea, but the greater part of 
their territory was included in Arabia EKudaimon. As Strabo does not 
describe any contemporary events, it is possible that he obtained the 
reference to the Sabaean raids on Syria from old records dating from 
the time when the Sabaeans held sway over the whole caravan route 
and all the halting places established upon it. 

Pliny, Nat. hist., V, 65, writes that beyond the Pelusiac arm of the 
Nile lies Arabia, extending to the Red Sea as well as to that rich land 
known as Beata (the Happy), from which various fragrances are conveyed. 
This country is barren, except at the spot where it touches the Syrian 
frontiers; it is renowned only for Mount Casius. It is named after the 
Catabanian, Esbonitan, and Scenitan Arabs. To these tribes are joined 
the Canchlean Arabs on the east and on the south the Cedreans, both 
of whom are neighbors of the Nabataeans. — 

As usual with Pliny this passage is not clear. He means Arabia 
Petraea, which extended from Pelusium southward as far as the Red Sea 
and as far as Arabia Felix, or, as he calls it, Beata. The Catabani were 
never encamped in Arabia Petraea. The Esbonitae are perhaps the inhab- 
itants of the environs of the town of Hesban, which was situated in 
Arabia Petraea east of the northern extremity of the Dead Sea. The 
Scenitae include all the nomad Arabs dwelling in tents. Mount Casius 
rises east of Pelusium on the actual coast of the Mediterranean. The 
Cedrei are perhaps the ancient Kedar, who owned the Hawran with its 
environs. On the south they border on the Nabataeans. According to Pliny 
we should locate the Canchlei to the southeast of the Kedar and north- 
east of the Nabataeans; accordingly, in Arabia Deserta. 

Pliny, op. cit., VI, 157, deals with the tribes and towns of inland 
Arabia and writes that the ancients connected the Thimaneans with 
the Nabataeans. In his time there were the Taveni (vam., Tabeni, Tha- 
baeni), the Suelleni, the Araceni (vav., Sarraceni, Anageni), the Arreni 
(var., Hareni), the town where all traders assemble, the Hemnatae, the 
Avalitae, the towns of Domata (var., Domatha, Domada) and Haegra, the 
Thamudaei, the town of Baclanaza (var., Badanatha), the Chariattaei 
(var., Cariatth, Cariati), the Toali (var., Achoali, Acalin), the town of 
Phodaca (var., Phoda, Fothca, Totaca), and the Minaei. — 


IN CLASSICAL AUTHORS d11 


The Thimaneans probably were the Biblical tribe of Téman. Whether 
these Thiman of Pliny are identical with the Taveni is not altogether 
certain, but it is possible. The Taveni were the inhabitants of the town of 
Thoana (Ptolemy, Geography, V, 16: 4), which on the Peutinger Table, 
VIII, is transcribed as Thornia and corresponds precisely with the modern 
ruins of at-Twane, situated where the Biblical tribe of Tém&an dwelt 
(Gen., 36; 11). 

Araceni is perhaps the common appellation of the Arab nomads, 
Saraceni, or the tribe of the Sarakenoi (Ptolemy, op. cit., VI, 7: 21), who 
(Stephen of Byzantium, E'thnica [Meineke], p. 556), were encamped in the 
region of Saraka (serk), beyond and thus to the east of the territory of 
the Nabataeans, where the Bible mentions the Bene Kedem, or the nomads 
of the interior Arabian desert. Today they are known as as-Serkijje, 
Bedouins. 

The word Arreni is transcribed from Agreni, or Hagreni; these are 
the inhabitants of the town of Haegra, or Hegra, the modern al-Hegr, 
which forms an important halting place on the caravan route connecting 
southwestern Arabia with Syria and Egypt. At this point a branch of 
the ancient trade route leads off along the southern border of the sandy 
desert of Neffid to the Persian Gulf and southern Babylonia. Pliny there- 
fore is right in saying that all trade is concentrated at this town. 

The town of Domata is the large oasis of Adumu (Dima or Dimat 
al-Gandal), situated over four hundred kilometers east of Petra, the 
Nabataean capital. 

The Thamudaei are identical with the Tamudi, who were overcome 
by the Assyrian king Sargon II and with the Thamydenoi (Ptolemy, op. 
cit., VI, 7: 21). Their central sanctuary of Rwafa was situated at the 
southwestern extremity of the territory of Hesma, where this territory 
becomes of volcanic formation. Uranius (Arabica [Miller, Vol. 4], 
p. 525) was likewise acquainted with Thamuda, which he assigned to the 
Nabataeans. 

Ptolemy, op. cit., VI, 7: 4, 21, records the various tribes who 
dwelt partly on the coast and partly in the interior of the northern 
Hegaz. By the coast in the northern part were encamped the Thamyditai, 
in the southern, the Sidenoi; in the interior, near the mountains between 
Arabia Petraea, Arabia Deserta, and Arabia Felix, the Skenitai, and 
beyond them the Thaditai. To the south of the latter was the territory 
of the Sarakenoi and the Thamydenoi. To the west of Mount Zames 
were the nomadic Apataioi and Athritai, and near them the Maisaimeneis 
and Udenoi. — 

In Ptolemy also Skenitai is the common appellation for the nomads 
and not the actual name of any particular tribe. The name Thaditai would 
seem to be Thamyditai, without the my, although it might also be an 
erroneous transcription of Thaiitai, the Tajj tribe. According to Ptolemy, 
these Thaditai were encamped between the aS-Sera’ range and the desert 
of Neffd and, indeed, possibly also in the desert itself. If such is the 
case, we must locate the Sarakenoi in the northwestern half of the 
modern territory of Sammar, for according to Ptolemy the Sarakenoi 
and Thamydenoi were encamped to the south of the Thaditai. We know 
the camping place of the Thamydenoi from the middle of the second 


312 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


century of our era; that is, almost from the time of Ptolemy. Their 
center was Hesma’, and in this territory they built the temple of Rwafa. 
If the Thamydenoi of Ptolemy are identical with the Thamudenon Ethnos 
of the inscription at Rwafa, then they owned also the whole coast to the 
south, at least as far as lat. 27° N. The Thamyditai on the north are 
identical with them, and the Thaditai on the northeast paid them tribute 
or formed one of their clans. We must then locate the Sarakenoi to the 
east of the Thamudenoi in the desert of an-Nefiid; that is, in the territory 
of the former Tajj. But for the classical writers Sarakenoi was the common 
appellation for the Arab nomads, and down to the present day it denotes 
all the tribes camping in the interior of the Arabian desert, which is 
called serk (Saraka). The Sarakenoi of Ptolemy, therefore, should not 
be taken as standing for any particular tribe but as acommon appellation 
of the tribes camping in the actual Arabian desert to the east of the 
Nabataean realm. 

According to Ptolemy, op. cit., VI, 7: 2f., the settlements of Onne, 
Modiana or Moduna, Mount Hippos, the settlement of Hippos, and the 
settlement of Phoinikon, the palm settlement, are located on the coast 
of northern Arabia Felix, beyond the gulf of Aila. . 

Onne is identical with the modern al-Hrajbe, which was the harbor 
of the great oasis of Una or “Ajn Una (‘Ajntina). The Madana, or Moduna, 
of Ptolemy is situated to the southeast of Una, so that we should perhaps 
seek it in the small ruins not far to the east of the oasis of Terim, 
which was perhaps called al-Modejne. It is also possible, however, that 
Modiana denotes the harbor of the town of Madian and that it was not 
situated to the south-southeast, but to the north or northwest of al-Hrajbe 
near the modern oasis of al-Kijal. Mount Hippos is certainly identical 
with the mountain of ag-Sar, which is shaped like a horse, and the 
settlement of Hippos with the ruins in the bay of Gibbe. The settlement 
of Phoinikon, the palm settlement, applies best to the mouth of the 
fertile and well irrigated Wadi ad-Dama. 

Ptolemy, op. cit., VI, 7: 27 ff., records very many towns and settle- 
ments in that part of interior Arabia Felix today known as the Hegaz. 
That the names of these towns or settlements in many cases denote 
only the more important wells or camping places is evident from the 
character of the country. 

The settlement of Aramaua is certainly the same as Mount Aram, 
or Iram of the Arabic authors, the modern Ramm, where there is an 
abundance of water. 

I locate Ostama in the ruins of al-Krajje, in the river basin of az- 
Zejte. The position of al-Krajje does not tally with the position of 
Ptolemy’s Ostama, but very frequently the particulars he gives do not 
tally even when the identity is absolutely certain. 

Thapaua perhaps is a distorted form of the ancient name of the 
oasis of Tebtk, which was probably Thabaucha or Thapaucha. From 
Tebak (Thapaua) by way of al-Krajje (Ostama) and Ramm (Aramaua) 
led the shortest and most convenient transport route from southern 
Arabia to Petra, the Nabataean capital. 

Makna is the modern oasis of Makna on the coast of the Gulf of 
al-‘Akaba, although the particulars given by Ptolemy are not in accord- 
ance with the facts. 


THE REGION OF HESMA’ d13 


Agkale corresponds to the oasis of Hakl, likewise on the coast. 

Madiama is the ancient settlement of Madian, enlarged by the 
Nabataeans and today known as al-Bed’*. Ptolemy’s latitude and longitude 
also erroneously fix the position of this town in relation to Makna. 

Achrua (var., Achrona) should, according to Ptolemy, be located to 
the east of al-Bed*. It is perhaps the modern settlement of al-Kena’, which 
is of no great size and is situated west of Mount Umm Hrejman. This 
name can be traced to the ancient Achrona. 

The word Obraka is the common appellation abrak, barka, denoting 
dark rocks half-covered with light-colored sand. If we can trust the 
particulars of its situation as they have been preserved by Ptolemy, we 
may locate his Obraka in some abrak in the al-Hunfa region, where the 
Bedouins were fond of encamping during the spring. 

I regard Laba as being in the valley of La‘ban, where the halting 
place of al-Ahzar is situated. 

Thaima is the well-known oasis of Tejma. 

The name Lugana, or Zugana (Ptolemy, Geography, VI, 7: 29) is 
interesting. It is certain that Ptolemy is recording two pronunciations 
of the initial sound, but in Arabic it is impossible to interchange / with z. 
It must therefore be inferred that the / was an incorrect transcription 
of a Greek d, which as d and d in Arabic is very similar to z and gz. 
The Greek Dugana, or Zugana, recalls the Arabic Duhkan, or, as it is 
now pronounced in the dialects, Zahakan and Zahaéan, the oasis near 
the settlement of Zbe’. Ptolemy places Zugana in the interior of the 
country, as he does Makna, which, however, is actually likewise situated 
on the coast. 

Gaisa, in the same latitude as Zugana, would seem to be the 
Se%tb of Ammu-l-Gejs to the east of Zahakan. 

Soaka is the modern oasis of a’-Swak between Zahakan and 
Ammu-l-Gejs. 

Egra is the renowned city of al-Hegr. From the harbor settlement 
of Zahakan (Zugana) the transport route leads by way of SwAak (Soaka) 
and Ammu-l-Gej§ (Gaisa) to al-Hegr (Egra). 

Badais, ibid., VI, 7: 30, may with every justification be identified 
with the oasis of Bada’ to the south of Laba (La‘ban). 


APPENDIX XII 
THE REGION OF HESMA’ 


As Ibn Ishak narrates (Ibn Hisém, Stra [Wistenfeld], Vol. 1, pp. 
975 ff.; al-Wakedi, Muhammed [Wellhausen], pp. 234 ff.; Jakat, Mu‘gam 
[Wiistenfeld], Vol. 1, p. 407), the Gudam encamping in the region of Hesma’ 
in 627—628 A.D. announced through their chief Refa‘a ibn Zejd to Mo- 
hammed that they would accept Islam, and Mohammed confirmed this by 
a special charter. But al-Hunejd, one of the Gudam, and his son attacked 
in the valley of Sinar a messenger of Mohammed returning from the 


314 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Emperor Heraclius and robbed him. When the Gudam, who had gone over 
to Islam, heard of this, they immediately prevailed upon al-Hunejd to 
return the messenger his stolen property, whereupon the latter proceeded 
to al-Medina. There he begged Mohammed for revenge. Mohammed 
equipped against the Gudam a band of raiders under the command of 
Zejd ibn Hareta. The culprit, al-Hunejd, was attacked with his clan near 
al-Makes on the border of the volcanic territory in the district of al- 
Awlag and was murdered and robbed. In the volcanic territory close by, 
in the valley of Madan which runs eastward, there was encamped a clan, 
which had already embraced Islam, together with Refa‘a, the chief. Hear- 
ing about the attack made by the band of Moslems upon the clan to 
which al-Hunejd belonged, they jumped on their horses, rode up to the 
Moslems, and after they had ascertained what had happened, returned 
in the afternoon to their camp in Madan. At night, however, they left 
Madan and shortly after sunset reached Refa‘a ibn Zejd at the well of 
Kura Rabba on the border of the volcanic territory Harra Lajla. Having 
informed him of what had occurred, they rode with him on camels into 
the valley of al-Medina, which they reached after three nights, and re- 
ported the matter to the Prophet. Mohammed gave orders that the Gudam 
who had been captured should be released, and sent “Ali with Refa‘a to 
meet the returning raiders. These they encountered in the valley of al- 
Falhatejn, and the Gudam regained everything which had been taken 
from them. — 

Through the territory of the Gud4ém there are three roads leading 
from Syria: one by way of Ajla along the western border of the chain 
of granite mountains into WAdi al-Gizel; the second by way of Ma‘an, 
Tebtk, and al-Hegr; and the third by way of al-Azrak, Tejma, and Bird 
into the volcanic territory Harra Lajla and thence to al-Medina. As may 
be inferred from various details, the messenger traveled by the first 
road. Thus from Palestine he reached Ajla and from there entered the 
valley of Sinar, or, as Jakit writes, Sinan, where he was attacked and 
robbed. 

Between the attack on the messenger and the punitive expedition 
of the Moslems certainly no considerable time elapsed. The punitive 
expedition was directed mainly against the culprit al-Hunejd and was 
prepared with very great caution. Al-Hunejd must have expected that 
the Prophet would avenge the humiliation inflicted upon his messenger, 
and he therefore transferred his camp from the place where he had 
attacked the messenger, and which was therefore familiar to the latter, 
to al-Makes on the border of the volcanic territory in the region of al- 
Awlag. Jakat writes that, according to Ibn Ishak, the Moslem troops 
attacked al-Hunejd at al-Makes on the border of the volcanic territory 
of ar-Ragla, but Ibn Ishak merely says that the Moslems attacked 
al-Hunejd at al-Makes on the border, or in front of, the volcanic territory. 
Neither he nor Ibn HisAm connects al-Makes with Harrat ar-Ragla, Jakat 
adding “ar-Ragla’”’ on his own account and, as it seems, incorrectly. The 
whole context points rather to the volcanic territory of Lajla than to 
that of ar-Ragla. For the Gudam, who accepted Islam, must have been 
encamped very near to al-Hunejd, if on horseback they could reach the 
end of the valley of Madan, in which the Moslems of al-Medina were 
resting, and return to their camp in the afternoon of the same day. 


THE REGION OF HESMA’ O15 


From there, traveling on camels, in a single night they reached the 
camp of their chief Refa‘a, which, as the text expressly says, was pitched 
on the border of the volcanic region of Lajla. All these camping places, 
including that of al-Hunejd as well as those of the followers of Islam 
and of Refa‘a, could not have been more than sixty kilometers distant 
from each other or about three hundred and fifty kilometers from al- 
Medina. We must locate them on the eastern border of Harrat al-‘Awérez, 
which formed a part of Harra Lajla. The volcanic territory of ar-Ragla 
is nowhere mentioned among the camping places of the Gudam tribe, 
for it is situated over two hundred kilometers to the north of the 
northernmost frontier of their territory. All oral tradition regards this 
raid as having been directed against the Gudam in Hesma’, and Harrat 
ar-Ragla lies more than three hundred kilometers to the northeast of 
Hesma’, whereas Harra Lajla borders on the region of Hesma’. In the 
volcanic territory of Harra Lajla and to the east of it were encamped 
the Beni ‘Udra, and it is conceivable that the Moslem band was led by 
a man of this tribe. According to Ibn Ishak the subjects of Refa‘a 
pitched their tents in the valley of Madan, which runs eastward from 
the voleanic territory; but in the whole of the volcanic territory of ar-Ragla 
there is not a single valley extending toward the east. From all this it 
follows that the word ar-Ragla was incorrectly inserted into the account 
of the expedition against the Gudam. We are therefore concerned only 
with that part of the volcanic territory of Lajla which borders on Hesma’. 
It seems, however, that during the raid Zejd ibn Hareta did not enter 
the actual region of Hesma’ and that his expedition has therefore been 
erroneously connected with that region. 

Wellhausen explains the passage in al-Wakedi (op. cit., p. 285, 
note 5) by saying that Zejd arrived with five hundred warriors from 
al-Awlag and at dawn attacked in ar-Ragla the united tribes of the 
Gudam, Ratafan, Wajel, Salamat, and Bahra’, who were all present when 
Refa‘a returned with the charter from the Prophet. — But the tribes 
of the Ratafan, Wajel, Salamat, and Bahra’ did not belong to the Gudam, 
and it is not stated in the text that Zejd ibn Hareta attacked them in 
Harrat ar-Ragla. 

Caetani, Annali, Vol. 1, p. 627, also writes that Zejd, having passed 
al-Awlag, surprised the Gudim assembled at ar-Ragla. — No Arabic 
author asserts that the Gudam were assembled at ar-Ragla. 

Al-Hamdani, Sifa (Miller), Vol. 1, p. 129, says that Hesma’ extends 
between the territories of the Fezara and Gudam tribes on the border 
of Syria and that the well-known camping place of Iram is situated there. — 
The encampments of the Fezara were to the southeast of the region 
of Hesma’ and the territory of the Gudam. As Iram, or the modern Ramm, 
is located in the region of Hesma’, the latter must have extended as far 
as the aS-Sera’ range, which, according to the natives, forms its northern 
and northeastern border even today. 

In another passage (7bid., p. 179) al-Hamdani refers to the settlement 
of az-Zihjawt on the Syrian border between the Gudam and Kalb tribes, 
as well as to the valley of al-Ajm and the region of Hesma’. 

In several manuscripts of Hassan ibn Tabet’s Diwdn (Tunis, 1281 
A. H.), p. 28, we read az-Zihjawt instead of al-Marrtt, which is unknown to 
the Arabic geographers. In the ancient territory of the Gudam, however, 


316 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


is the place now known as az-Zihed, a name which recalls Zihjawt. Accord- 
ing to Jaktit, Mu‘gam (Wistenfeld), Vol. 1, p. 425, al-Ajm is said to 
be a black hill in the territory of the Beni “Abs in the valley of ar-Rumma’ 
and therefore several hundred kilometers from the frontiers of Syria 
and the Gudim. Where al-Hamdani simply inserts extracts from the 
ancient poets, it is very difficult to determine the situation of the 
different localities, because he often connects places which in reality are 
situated at a great distance from each other. 

Al-Bekri, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), p. 295, states that Hesma’ is a place 
in the Gudam territory where the remains of water from the Flood have 
been preserved. He quotes the poet “Antara, who urges the Fezara en- 
camping in Hesma’ to pay heed to the smoke ascending as a warning 
sign from the voleano of al--Alanda before their camp. Al-Bekri recalls 
that smoke was perpetually ascending from the hill of al-“Alanda. — 

This active volcano could not have been very far from the camping 
place of the “‘Udra tribe and must therefore be located in the southeastern 
part of the volcanic territory of Lajla. Why water from the Flood should 
have been preserved precisely in the region of Hesma’ is not clear, for 
the water of the numerous wells there is in no way different from the 
water of the neighboring territories. 

Al-Makrizi (Sulik [Quatremére’s transl.], Vol. 1, pp. 61f.) writes 
that in July of the year 1256 A.D. there was a great volcanic eruption to 
the east of al-Medina in the district of the Saza valley opposite Mount 
Ohod. The stream of lava was four parasangs long, four miles broad, 
and one and one half cubits thick. The flames could be seen as far as 
the environs of Bosra’ in the Hawran. 

Al-Ahkaf, where the clan of ‘Ad dwelt, is identified by al-Bekri, 
op. cit., p. 76, with a mountain range in Syria or with isolated rocks 
in Hesma’. — The name Ahkaf (Hakaf) has been preserved to the 
southwest of al-Bed* (Madian). 

Jakit, op. cit., Vol. 2, pp. 267f., calls Hesma’ a region in the Syrian 
desert two nights distant from Wadi al-Kura’. From Tebtik one can see 
the hills of Hesma’ in the west and Sarawra in the east. Hesma’ is said 
to be an extensive rough area near Ajla, containing bad water and 
belonging to the Gudam. According to Ibn as-Sikkit as quoted by Jakit, 
the Gudam own the mountain range and the area between the borders 
of the Tih beni Isra’il near Ajla and the territory of the Beni “Udra in 
Harra Nuhejl, the name of their district being Hesma’. In the wells of 
Hesma’, it is said, water has been preserved from the Flood and that is 
why the water of these wells is so bad. In the tradition concerning the 
escape of the poet al-Mutanabbi from Egypt, Hesma’ is described as a 
region with good pastures, fine palm trees of the lin species, and innumer- 
able isolated rocks, the sides of which are so steep that those who try 
to catch a glimpse of their summits almost dislocate their necks. The 
summits of some of these rocks are invisible and inaccessible. As the 
poet an-Nabira had already stated, Hesma’ is perpetually swathed in 
clouds of dust. Only those who have seen it can really form an idea of 
what it is like, for in the whole world there is no other region which 
resembles it. Among the mountains of Hesma’ should be mentioned the 
huge and lofty Mount Iram, on which, according. to the surmise of the 
nomads, grapevines and pine trees grow. According to the tradition of 


THE REGION OF HESMA’ O17 


Abu Hurejra, the Prophet designated with the word as-Sunbuk that part 
of Hesma’ belonging to the Gudam. In the opinion of several Arabic 
writers, Allah, at the request of the Believers in Hesma’, caused springs 
to gush forth at Iram, al-Bedi‘a, Na‘man, and ‘Alalan. — 

From the southern extremity of the region of Hesma’ to the actual 
Wadi al-Kura’ it is over two hundred kilometers, but to the beginning 
of Wadi al-Gizel, which is likewise reckoned as tributary to WAdi al-Kura’, 
it is only seventy kilometers. Jakit includes this region in Syria, because 
Tebtk, and accordingly also the greater part of Hesma’, used to belong 
to the political area of Sorar — Sorar being at the southern end of the 
Dead Sea. From Tebik the peaks of Hesma’ rise up to the west and 
northwest; Saréra’, however, is seen not to the east, as stated by Jakit, 
but to the northeast. According to Ibn as-Sikkit, it would seem that 
the eastern edge of al-“Araba opposite the harbor of Ajla belonged to 
Hesma’, while the western belonged to the desert of Tih beni Isra’il. 

The Harra Nuhejl, which Ibn as-Sikkit mentions, is unknown to me. 
Wiistenfeld writes in a note (Jakit, Mu‘gam, Vol. 5, p. 152) that Nuhejl 
nowhere occurs in Arabic literature and that it should probably be Nihja, 
which is referred to by the poet al-Mutanabbi on his journey from Egypt 
to Irak (“Erak). Al-Mutanabbi, however, nowhere mentions Nihja on this 
journey but refers to it in describing the expedition of Sejfaddawle 
against the nomads; and this Nihja is not situated in the proximity of 
the region of Hesma’ but to the southwest of Tudmor (Palmyra). The 
encampments of the Beni “‘Udra were in the neighborhood of al-Hegr 
and thus on the eastern edge of Harrat al--Awérez and Harrat ar-Rha’, 
so that we should locate the volcanic territory of Nuhejl in the eastern 
lava spurs to the northwest of al-Hegr, somewhere near the lava lake 
of Salam. There we meet with the name Mhejr, which recalls Nhejl 
(Nhejr), for n at the beginning of a word is often interchanged with m, 
l at the end of a word being interchanged with 7. 

The natives of Hesma’ are acquainted with the lin species of palm. 
This species is said to flourish particularly well in the oasis of Sarma’. 
Clouds of dust, or rather of sand, can be observed in the region of Hesma’ 
almost every other day. They cover the whole country, so that even on 
a clear day it is impossible to see beyond fifty meters. These clouds of 
sand are a proof of considerable erosion and of the violent winds blowing 
through Hesma’. In consequence of erosion, the rocky soil of Hesma’ 
had been rendered as smooth as a horse’s hoof, and that is why the 
commentators on the oral tradition call it as-Sunbuk (fore part of a 
horse’s hoof). 

On Mount Iram, or the modern Ramm, grapevines and pine trees 
would thrive even now, but I have never seen any pine trees to the 
south of ‘Amman. The spring of al-Bedi'a mentioned by Ibn as-Sikkit 
is identical with the oasis of al-Bedi, which, however, is situated about 
thirty kilometers east of the southwestern extremity of Hesma’ proper. 
The well of Naman I locate in the modern an-Na‘emi on the south- 
western border of Hesma’, while “Alalan is probably the famous camping 
place of “Alakan provided with the water of al-“Elli, a name which recalls 
“Alalan. 


Ai P:P BEN: Di lexae xX 
TEBUK 


Ptolemy, Geography, VI, 7: 27, records on the northwestern border 
of Arabia Felix a settlement called Thapaua, the name of which I regard 
as a corruption of Thapaucha, or Tebtik. The position of the two tallies. 

O. Blau, Altarabische Sprachstudien (1871), p. 561, finds a reference 
to Tebfik in the work of the anonymous Ravenna geographer, Cosmo- 
graphia, II, 6 (Pinder and Parthey, p. 57), reading Taboca Romanis instead 
of Taboca Coromanis, but the former reading is not accurate, for the 
Ravenna geographer erroneously copies Ptolemy, op. cit., VI, 7: 19; the 
correct reading of his Taboca Coromanis should be Abukaion Koromanis, 
which Ptolemy places on the coast of the Persian Gulf. 

Al-Beladori, Futéh (De Goeje), p. 59, relates that in the year 680—631 
A. D. the Prophet reached Tebtik with a large Moslem army, concluded 
peace with the population there on condition that they should pay the 
gizja tax (levied upon Christians and Jews), and after about ten days 
returned to al-Medina. — 

Tebtik, therefore, at that time was inhabited by Christians and Jews, 
for they were the only ones who paid the gizja tax. 

According to Ibn Hisam, Stra (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 1, p. 907, mosques 
of the Prophet are situated at Tebtik, at the valley of al-Kura’, and at 
the following places in between: Tenijjet Medran; Dat az-Zerrab; al-Ahdar; 
Dat al-Hetmi; Ala’i; by al-Batra at the end of al-Kawakeb; Sikk Tara; 
Di al-Gifa; Sadr Hawda’; al-Hegr; as-Sa‘id. — 

It seems that Ibn HiSAm quotes these in geographical order, for 
according to al-Bekri the mosque of az-Zerrab is situated two days’ march 
from Tebtk; and in Ibn Hisam it stands in the second place beyond 
Tebtiik and before al-Ahdar. The latter is identical with the halting place 
of al-Ahzar, seventy kilometers south of Tebtk, so that about twenty- 
five kilometers would be reckoned as one day’s march. After ten such 
marches from Tebtk, al-Hegr would be reached, and Ibn HiSAm mentions 
the mosque of al-Hegr in the tenth place. We may thus locate the mosques 
enumerated between these two places on the Pilgrim Route. It is remark- 
able, however, that not a single one of the devout pilgrims who have 
described this route refers to these mosques consecrated by Mohammed, 
although they give detailed descriptions of various places connected with 
the legend of the Prophet Saleh. 

The defile Tenijjet al-Medran is identical with the defile of al-Medra’, 
which begins at the ruins Ksér at-Tamra. These ruins are perhaps the 
only remains of the mosque of al-Medran; they are not situated, however, 
on the Pilgrim Route but about twenty kilometers to the west. I locate 
the mosque of as-Sa‘iid near the springs having their source beneath 
Twejjel eben Sa‘id; this, however, is not situated to the south but nearly 
one hundred kilometers north-northwest of al-Hegr. I should likewise 


318 


TEBUK 319 


identify the mosque of Hawda’ with the ruins near the well of al-Hawsa’ on 
the crossroad to the northeast of Tebtik and at a long distance from it. 
If, however, these conjectures of mine are accurate, Ibn His&m does not 
enumerate the mosques in their actual order and thus does not afford an 
opportunity of fixing their exact position. It rather seems that the pious 
tradition ascribed all the mosques constructed between al-Medina and 
Syria at some distance from the Pilgrim Route to the Prophet on his 
expeditions to Tebik and Dimat al-Gandal (al-Gowf). 

Al-Mas‘tdi, Tanbih (De Goeje), p. 270, includes Tebtik in Syria and 
states that it is ninety parasangs or twelve nights distant from al-Medina. — 
As the journey from Tebtk to al-Medina is more than 550 kilometers, 
one parasang would be more than six kilometers. Al-Mas‘tdi is the only 
Arabic author who gives the distances on the Syrian Pilgrim Route in 
parasangs. His statement cannot be more than roughly accurate, because, 
knowing the number of marches, he multiplied them by seven, although 
the separate daily marches might be longer or shorter according to the 
supply of water. He reckons Tebtk as part of Syria, because at his time 
(the middle of the tenth century) it belonged to the political administration 
of Syria. 

According to al-Mukaddasi, Ahsan (De Goeje), p. 179, Tebak in the 
tenth century was a small town with a mosque of the Prophet. 

Al-Idrisi, Nuzha, III, 5, locates Tebik about midway between al- 
Hegr and the Syrian frontier, from which it is four days’ march distant. 
At Tebtk, he says, there is a citadel haunted by spirits. The inhabitants 
obtain water from a well which gushes out with great force, and they 
cultivate date palms. — 

These assertions make the Hegaz extend as far as the foot of the 
as-Sera’ range at a distance from Tebttk of four days’ march. Such 
marches would be of forty-five kilometers each. 

Jakit, Mu'gam (Wistenfeld), Vol. 1, pp. 42], 824f.; Vol. 4, p. 690, 
says that Tebtk, a place between Wadi al-Kura’ and Syria, is a reser- 
voir of the Beni Sa‘d of the ‘Udra tribe. He cites Abu Zejd al-Ansari to 
the effect that Tebik is situated between al-Hegr and the Syrian frontier, 
four days’ journey from al-Hegr and nearly midway between al-Medina 
(twelve days’ march distant) and Damascus. He says that it is a strong- 
hold girded by a high wall, with a well and palms, between the mountains 
of Hesma’ in the west and Sarawra’ in the east. Many have related that 
the Prophet Su‘ejb was sent from Madjan —— which is situated on the 
shore of the Red Sea six days’ journey from Tebtk — to Tebtk to the 
owners of the thicket of al-Ajka. But Jaktat did not believe this narrative 
and was of the opinion that the thicket of al-Ajka must be located in the 
neighboring Madjan, whence the Prophet Su‘ejb came. At the command 
of Caliph ‘Omar ibn al-Hattab, the Jew Ibn ‘Arid walled up an excellent 
well at Tebtk, which, according to Ibn Sa‘d, was known as Mila. It 
contained so much water that it perpetually overflowed. — 

The distance from Tebtak to Madjan and to al-Medina is not given 
in marches of equal length. Madjan is only 150 kilometers distant from 
Tebak, so that Jakit must be reckoning according to the march of loaded 
camels, this being about twenty-five kilometers daily. But from Tebtk 
to al-Medina is more than 550 kilometers, so that each march would have 
to be forty-five kilometers, the average speed of a camel rider. The ‘Udra 


320 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


tribe was encamped to the southeast of Tebtk, and, when Jaktt assigns 
the reservoir there to the Beni Sa‘d ofthat tribe, he proves that in past 
centuries the individual clans obtained possession of various halting places 
just as they do today. — According to Abu Zejd too, the Hegaz extends 
northward as far as the as-Sera’ range. 

Jakiit, op. cit., Vol. 2, p. 247, refers to Harra Tebtk, through which 
the Prophet marched on his expedition to Tebik. — This is the volcanic 
territory between al-Mu‘azzam and Lussan. 

Ibn Battita, Tuhfa (Defrémery and Sanguinetti), Vol. 1, pp. 257 ff., 
visited Tebaik at the end of 1326 A. D. and heard from the pilgrims that 
they ascribed the abundance of water there to the Prophet. Arming 
themselves in memory of the fact that the Prophet entered this oasis 
at the head of a military expedition, they made a sham attack on it and 
struck the palm trees with their swords. They stayed in Tebik four days, 
in order to rest and to obtain the water necessary for the onerous march 
between Tebtk and al-‘Ela’. 

Ahmed al-Makrizi, Mawd%z (Codex Vindobonensis, 908 [A. F. 69]), 
Vol. 1, fol. 836 v., writes that the settlement of Tebtk is situated in the desert 
six days’ march east of Madjan and that it has an abundance of date palms. 

Haggi Halfa, Gihan numa’ (Constantinople, 1145 A. H.), p. 523, 
also praises the pilgrims’ station of Tebtk for its date palms and water, 
which was increased by the Prophet in a miraculous manner. According 
to Haggi Halfa the Sultan Suleiman had the stronghold renewed and 
a large reservoir constructed there. 

Mehmed Edib, Mendzil (Constantinople, 1232 A. H.), p. 73, calls 
Tebtkk also ‘Asi Hurma, fixes its distance from the halting place of 
Ka‘ al-Basit at twelve hours, and mentions numerous wild palm trees, 
which grow there abundantly. The stronghold and reservoir, he says, were 
built during the reign of the Sultan Suleiman. He adds that in the strong- 
hold there is a large fig tree, by which a well had been hollowed out. 
In the reservoir there is a powerful spring, near which grow fig trees, 
pomegranates, quinces, grapes, bétingdn, and watermelons. In Tebtik there 
is said to be a mosque where the Prophet prayed and which was later 
renovated by ‘Omar ibn “Abdal‘aziz. Opposite is situated a place called 
Tenijjet al-Medrari, in which there was likewise a mosque where the 
Prophet prayed. In those regions much bejtardn grows, and even forests 
are found because water flows there. In the neighborhood the Arabs dwelt 
in places which they cultivated. Only a few Arab huts stand there, where 
formerly a settlement had been situated. Not far away is the village 
called Sarr. All these places belong to the Heg4z, in which Mecca, al- 
Medina, and Jemama are situated. According to al-Asma‘i, Hegaz is the 
name of the territory covered with volcanic stone. All the camping places 
of the Beni Selim as far as al-Medina are named Hegaz, because they 
are surrounded by mountains. — 

There neither were nor are any forests near Tebtk, but both to the 
west, north, and northeast of Tebtk the raza’ used to form thickets 
which from a distance resemble small woods. Since the building of the 
railway these thickets have become thinner because the raza’ wood is sent 
to various railway stations or used for preparing charcoal, which is con- 
veyed to Damascus. Tenijjet al-Medrari is identical with the mosque al- 
Medran, or the modern al-Medra’ near Ksejr at-Tamra, about twenty 


THE PILGRIM ROUTE FROM EGYPT O21 


kilometers to the south of Tebik. The Arab houses stood near the garden 
of ar-Rajes, near the well of Gerttiima, near Bir al-Kena’, and elsewhere 
to the south and west of the settlement. The village of Sarr recalls the 
halting place of Sorar, which, however, is situated nearly 117 kilo- 
meters north-northwest of Tebtk. 

According to U.J. Seetzen (Beitrdge zur Geographie Arabiens [in: 
Monatliche Correspondenz, edit. by F. von Zach, Vol. 18], p. 377), who 
records the statements of Jisef al-Milki, Tebtk at the beginning of 
the nineteenth century was inhabited by the Hamajde, who had emigrated 
northward. 


/WAT De DOIN ABAD Ge GA 
THE PILGRIM ROUTE FROM EGYPT 


At-Tabari, Tawrih (De Goeje), Ser. 1, p. 2078, records a statement 
by Ibn Ishak to the effect that there were two highroads leading from 
the Hegaz to Syria: the al-Mu‘reka road along the seashore to Ajjla, 
and the Tebtkijje road by way of the settlement of Tebtk. 

The former highroad is perhaps identical with the later Egyptian 
Pilgrim Route from Ajla to al-Medina and Mecca. From Ajla northward 
the al-Mu‘reka road probably led through the rift valley of al-’Araba. 
I infer this from the fact that the first army sent to Palestine under 
the leadership of ‘Amr ibn al-‘As marched in the spring of 634 A. D. 
from Ajla through al-‘Araba, rested for some time at al-Ramr (see Musil, 
Arabia Petraea, Vol. 2, Part 2, p. 201), and proceeded thence in a north- 
westerly direction to Gaza. 

The at-Tebtkijje road leading by way of Tebik was later trans- 
formed into the Pilgrim Route from Damascus to al-Medina. 

Al-Ja‘ktbi, Bulddn (De Goeje), p. 330, likewise mentions the al- 
Mu'reka road as proceeding from Palestine by way of al-Ramr to the 
harbor of Ajla and the settlement of Madjan, even though he does not 
give its name. 

The position of the separate halting places situated on the roads 
from Syria, Palestine, or Egypt to al-Medina can nowhere be determined 
with the help of the exact statement of distances. Computations in 
parasangs or miles are lacking, and in the case of daily marches we 
cannot decide whether the marches of transport caravans are meant or 
those of camel riders, as were the pilgrims. We may therefore suppose 
that these roads were never officially measured. From the time of the 
Omayyads there are no particulars of the lengths of the Syrian pilgrim 
routes, and the Abbassides completely neglected them. 

Ibn Hordadbeh, Masdlik (De Goeje), p. 149, was acquainted with 
only one road which we can precisely identify: the one from Egypt to 
al-Medina. It led from the harbor of Ajla to the oasis of Hakl (40 km.) ; 
to Madjan, or the modern al-Bed* (80 km.) ; and to al-Ararr. — The name 
of the latter stopping place has been changed by the copyists in various 


322 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


ways. It may be merely the watering place al-Rarr or al-Ararr in the 
valley of Sarma, about sixty-five kilometers southeast of al-Bed‘ (Madjan). 
The spelling al-A‘ar or al-Ararr, used by al-Ja‘ktibi and Kodama, would 
therefore be correct; not al-Araz or al-A‘ara’. The small palm oasis of 
al-Rarr, or al-Ararr, is situated on the ar-Rasifijje road which proceeds 
from al-Bed* (Madjan) to the southeast. The next halting place is not 
mentioned by Ibn Hordadbeh. It must be located at the crossroads in the 
valley of aS-Sar about fifty kilometers from al-Rarr, where, after abundant 
rains, much water collects and near which there are numerous spring's 
in the adjacent mountain range of a3-Sar. About fifty-five kilometers to 
the southeast of these crossroads, near the setb of Saliwa, flows the 
spring of al-Clébe, which I identify with the halting place of al-Kulaba, 
as it is written by al-Mukaddasi. The halting place of Sarab is situated 
on the same road about seventy kilometers from al-Clébe; and Bada’ 
about sixty-five kilometers to the southeast of Sarab. 

Al-Ja‘ktbi, op. cit., p. 340, describes this road in much greater detail 
than Ibn Hordadbeh. He asserts that the city of Ajla was inhabited 
by people from various countries — among them being the alleged pro- 
tégés of the Caliph Othman — and nearly all of these people carried on 
trade. An ancient cloak was exhibited there, supposed to have been the 
property of the Prophet. 

At Ajla the pilgrims from Syria, Egypt, and northern Africa 
assembled (al-Istahri, Masdlik [De Goeje], p. 27; Ibn Hawkal, Masdlik 
[De Goeje], p. 34) and marched through Saraf al-Ba‘l. The road to the 
latter halting place, which lies at a distance of about eighty kilometers 
from Ajla, led in a southerly direction along the seashore as far as Hakl 
(40 km.) and thence through the mountains southeast to the valley of 
al-Abjaz, in which are situated the ruins today known as aS-Seraf. 

At the next halting place of Madjan (al-Bed‘) a different route was 
taken by the pilgrims proceeding to Mecca from that of those proceeding 
to al-Medina only. The latter took the road described by Ibn Hordadbeh 
by way of al-Ararr to Kales, as al-Ja‘kibi calls the next halting place, 
which was probably in the valley of aS-Sar. Between Kales and Sarab 
al-Ja‘ktibi does not mention any halting place. 

It is more difficult to define the exact direction of the coast road 
to Mecca. From Madjan it led to the inhabited halting place of “Ajnina, 
which has still preserved its name in the oasis fifty kilometers south 
of Madjan. The other halting places situated in our territory are: al- 
“Awnid, as-Sala’, an-Nabk, al-Kusejbe, al-Buhra, al-Murajta, Zbe’, and 
al-Wegh. The situation of Zbe’ is known for certain. This settlement is 
nearly one hundred and five kilometers distant from “Ajnina. Between 
these two halting places al-Ja‘ktibi mentions six others, while between 
Zbe’ and al-Wegh, the halting place 150 kilometers beyond Zbe’, he 
mentions not a single one. It is certain that something must be wrong 
with the text here. If we distribute the seven halting places between 
‘Ajnina and al-Wegh, we obtain seven marches of forty-five to fifty 
kilometers each, and this distance agrees with the length of the daily 
marches as calculated from the halting places to which al-Ja‘kibi refers. 
Zbe’ is then not the seventh but the second halting place from “Ajnina, 
but regarding the others al-Ja‘kibi gives us no clue as to where we 
should insert them. 


THE PILGRIM ROUTE FROM EGYPT O29 


Ibn Roste, A‘ldk (De Goeje), p. 183, mentions only the halting places 
on the Pilgrim Route to al-Medina which are referred to by Ibn Hor- 
dadbeh but says nothing about the coast route. 

Kodama (died 922), Hardg (De Goeje), pp. 190f., refers to both 
routes. On the road to al-Medina he records the halting places given 
by Ibn Hordadbeh or al-Ja‘kGbi. As the junction, however, he does 
not designate Madjan (al-Bed‘) but inaccurately makes it Saraf al- 
Ba‘l. The conformation of the land does not allow the pilgrims to go 
from aS-Seraf direct to al-Ararr and thus to avoid Madjan. From Madjan 
the Mecca road must have gone in a southerly direction to the coast. 
But neither Kodama nor al-Mukaddasi (Ahsan [De Goeje], pp. 109f.) re- 
fers to “Ajniina as a halting place, although it is impossible to suppose 
that the pilgrims or traders would have avoided it. Both of these writers, 
it is true, mention a halting place al-’Awnid, not, however, before Zbe’, 
where al-Ja‘kibi places it, but beyond, where it actually lies. If we admit 
that the halting places of Madjan and ‘Ajntina are exactly indicated, we 
see that both Kodama and al-Mukaddasi insert the halting places of 
as-Sala’ and an-Nabk between the latter and the halting place of Zbe’, 
which is likewise exactly indicated. But the distance from “Ajnina to 
Zhe’ does not admit of two halting places; it admits of one only, and 
that one somewhere about the present settlement of al-Mwéleh. The latter 
name meaning “little salty” is more recent in origin and was derived 
from the springs there containing somewhat salty water. Since the name 
of as-Sala’ is still given to the coast to the north and islets west 
of al-Mwéleh, I locate the halting place of as-Sala’ at al-Mwéleh. It is 
here located by the other Arabic writers, who define its position between 
‘Ajntina and Zbe’. About fifty kilometers to the south of Zbe’, in Wadi 
al-Aznam, are heaped the small ruins of the halting place al--Uwajnid, 
which was erroneously transcribed as al-“Awnid by the copyists. The next 
halting place comes in the ge%b of Sa‘af, where the halting place of an- 
Nabk was actually situated. Thus, in geographical order on the coast 
route to Mecca in our territory, lay the halting places of Madjan, “Ajnina, 
as-Sala’, Zbe’, al--Wejned, and an-Nabk. 

Haggi Halfa, Gihdn numaw (Constantinople, 1145 A.H.), p. 541; 
Musawwadat gihdn numw (Codex Vindobonensis 1282 [Mxt. 389]), fol. 
179 v.f., writes that the Pilgrim Route from Egypt to Mecca passes 
through the halting place of Sath al-‘Akaba —i.e. a steep ascent (near 
Ajla). From there at a distance of one mile he says there is a walled-in 
spring with fresh water. At this halting place dwelt the Hwétat Arabs, 
who were engaged in cultivating the date palm. It is there that the first 
quarter of the Pilgrim Route terminates. The route then leads to two 
defiles containing fresh water and, ascending the stony slopes of Zahr 
Hemar to Gurfejn, reaches Saraf, which belongs to the Beni ‘Atijje and 
where there is an abundance of fuel; the road then continues between 
two mountain ranges through the valley of al-Mutallat, where the Beni 
Lam dwell. The halting place of Morara Su‘ejb is famous for its abun- 
dance of fresh water, its etel trees, and its mukl and date palms. The 
following halting places of Kabr at-Tawasi and ‘Ujtin al-Kasab are in 
a richly irrigated valley, containing a growth of reeds, but very hot. 
Here many pilgrims die during the summer. On the shore stands a tomb 
set up by Abraham, which is reverenced by the pilgrims. Near the halting 


324 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


place of as-Serm and close by the sea rises Mount aS-Sara. The halting 
place of al-Mwéleh is situated on the shore itself and has an abundance 
of water, which, however, is brackish. Dar Kajitbaj is so called after 
the sultan of the same name (al-Malik al-ASraf Sejfaddin Kajitbaj, 
1468—1496) who stayed there while on his pilgrimage. Previously the 
pilgrims used to encamp at a spot called Batn al-Kibrit. By a farther 
halting place is buried Sheikh Marztk al-Kefafi, to whose grave pilgrim- 
ages are made. At the halting place of Azlam terminates the second 
quarter of the Pilgrim Route. The surrounding neighborhood consists 
of waste land bordered by rocky mountains and containing salt water 
and inadequate pastures; but much senne grows there. — 

The walled-in spring mentioned by Haggi Halfa at the halting place 
of Ajla is situated in the gardens to the south of the present stronghold 
of al-“Akaba. It is still called Ajla, as is the fountain near the stronghold. 
Zahr al-Hmar is the name of a rocky elevation between the oases of 
Hakl and al-Hmejza. Gurfejn is identical with the Se%b of Umm Gurfejn, 
which begins at the hill of a&S-Saraf. The Beni “Atijje or “Atawne still 
encamp east of aS-Saraf. The pilgrims’ station was constructed at the 
spot where the se%b of aS-Seraf merges into WAdi al-Abjaz. Thence the 
route led southward through the latter valley, here enclosed between 
high, gray and black mountains. Wadi al-Abjaz is therefore identical 
with al-Mutallat. Of the Beni Lam only the Mesa‘id clan have remained 
near this valley. The name of Kabr at-Tawasi I did not hear in the re- 
gion referred to, but, as is shown by the name and the distance, the 
pilgrims’ station was situated at al-Mrah (quarters for the night). “Ujtin 
al-Kasab are identical with the springs flowing among the thick reeds 
in Wadi aS-Sarma on the al-Mellah road, about eight kilometers east 
from the coast. I do not know the tomb set up by Abraham. Mount as- 
Sara is the name as-Sar badly transcribed. The word a&-Serm denotes 
“the harbor,” and the place so called must therefore be located on the 
coast in the bay of as-Safra’. Al-Mwéleh is the modern settlement of the 
same name. Batn al-Kibrit, a sulphurous valley, is identical with the 
valley extending along the southern slope of Twejjel al-Kibrit, the sulphur 
being deposited not only on these hillocks but also farther to the south 
on the hill of Hméra’-l-Krajker, where the remains of the home of Ka- 
jitbaj must be located. The grave of Marzik al-Kefafi is identical with 
the modern Kabr at-Tawasi at the end of the sSe%b of al-Kfafi and is 
hence identical also with the settlement of Zbe’. The halting place of 
Azlam is the ancient_al-"Wejned already mentioned. 

Haggi Halfa, Gihadn numa (Constantinople, 1145 A. H.), p. 488, 
states that the stronghold of Ajla is situated on the shore of the Sea 
of Suez near Mount Tir and that it belongs to Egypt. From Ajla it is 
two days’ journey to Madjan, which is also called Morajer Su‘ejb, whence 
it is another three days’ journey to the stronghold of Azlam. — No re- 
ference is made to the road leading from Madjan to al-Medina. 

Samsaddin al-Bekri, Tuhfa (Codex Vindobonensis, 925 [A. F. 283 or 
457]), fol. 18 v., relates that the Egyptian Sultan Kansth al-Rawri 
(1501—1516 A. D.) ordered the restoration of the ascent at al-“Akaba, 
as well as of the halting place of Hakl. At Hakl a han (khan) was built 
with towers by the gateway, a complete ruin as early as the beginning 
of the seventeenth century. At. al-Azlam there was also constructed 


THE PILGRIM ROUTE FROM EGYPT O25 


a large khan in which the pilgrims deposited a portion of the food sup- 
plies intended for the return journey. 

Jean de Thevenot (1656 A.D.) (Voyages, Vol. 1, p.477) and Gabrielle 
Bremond (Viaggi [edit. by G. Corra], pp. 163f.) writing in the middle 
of the seventeenth century, likewise record the halting places on the 
Pilgrim Route from Egypt to al-Medina. These lead us from Sath al- 
“Akaba to the modern Kal‘at al-’Akaba, six and a half hours to the watch- 
tower of Zahr al-Hmar (Hakl) and after another seven and a half hours 
through a difficult region to the halting place of Sarafe Beni ‘Atijje. 
Bremond writes “‘Scharafé betugateie,’” and both Bremond and Thévenot 
give the distance from Dar al-Hmar (Zahr al-Hmar) to the latter halting 
place as fourteen hours; this, however, is not accurate, fourteen hours 
being the whole distance from Kal‘at al-‘Akaba as far as aS-Seraf. The road 
runs farther to Morajer Su‘ejb, which formerly belonged to the tribe of 
Madjan and is over fourteen hours distant; to “Ujfn al-Kasab (the oasis 
of Sarma), where Moses is said to have helped the daughters of Jethro; 
thence in fourteen hours to Kal‘at al-Mwéleh; and in eleven hours to 
Castel. The latter halting place must be identical with the modern Zbe’. 
From Castel it is fifteen and a half hours to Kal‘at al-Aznam; fourteen 
hours to Istabel “‘Antar; and a further thirteen and a half hours to Kal‘at 
al-Wegh. 

In 1694 “Abdalrani an-Nabulusi (Hakika, Codex Vindobonensis, 1269 
[Mxt. 712], Vol. 2, fol. 1lr.— 16v.) rode with his guides from the halting 
place of al--Akaba southward along the shore, so that he had the sea on 
his right hand and the mountains on his left as far as the palms and 
fresh-water springs of al-Hakl, where they arrived only just before noon. 
After a short rest, they ascended the slope of Zahr al-Hmar and before 
sunset were in the ge%b of Umm al-Gurfejn, where there was no water 
and where they spent the night. Before noon on the next day they 
reached al-Gurfejn; whereupon they journeyed between high rocks of 
porphyry and marble as far as the halting place of aS-Saraf, or as it is 
also called, Sarafe Beni “Atijje. They found no water there. In the morning 
they proceeded as far as the last spurs of aS-Saraf, where they had 
luncheon. At four o‘clock they again set out on the march, passing by the 
halting place of ar-Rigm and encamping before sunset at “Efal. On the 
afternoon of the following day they reached the halting place of Morajer 
Su‘ejb, which the Bedouins call al-Bed‘ and where from numerous fresh- 
water springs rises a stream which forms several ponds. On the next 
day ‘Abdalrani’s party rode till sunset and encamped in the seb of 
as-Swér until sunrise. Shortly before noon they were at the wells of 
al-Kasab, which unite to form a large stream, by the side of which many 
reeds grow. They rested there till nearly the middle of the afternoon. 
Late in the evening they found themselves in a trackless region, where 
they lost the way and remained till daybreak. Thereupon they rested 
in the valley of al--Odejb until the middle of the afternoon and at evening 
reached the fortress of al-Mwéleh, where they were again within sight 
of the sea. They found fresh-water springs there, and the fortress was 
permanently inhabited. Leaving the sea once again, by the middle of the 
afternoon they were at al-Mukawel, where they spent the night. They 
then passed through al-Ral and Sukk al-‘Agfiz, reaching the halting place 
of Zbe’, where there were springs of pure fresh water. In the morning 


326 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


they rode out of Zbe’ and after an hour passed by the grave of a virtuous 
merchant from northern Africa, whose name was Marztk al-Kefafi. He 
had fallen ill on his pilgrimage, had remained at Zbe’, where at his own 
expense he had ordered a well to be dug, and after a short while had 
died. About an hour after noon “Abdalrani rested for a short time with 
his guides in the valley of al-Bahara, and after sunset they encamped 
in the valley to the south of the stronghold of al-Azlam. At this, the 
sixteenth halting place on the Egyptian Pilgrim Route, about five Arabs 
were living. In the morning the pilgrims started off afresh, rested at 
noon in the mountain defile of ad-Duhhan near a fresh-water spring, 
and encamped for the night shortly before sunset by the river bed of 
as-Sa‘af. — 

Zahr al-Hmar must be identified with the spurs of at-Tabak and 
at-Tnejnir, which extend southward as far as the Se%b of Umm Gurfejn. 
Ar-Rigm is near the se%b of al-Hsane. “Efal is the name of the lower 
half of Wadi al-Abjaz. The pilgrims’ night quarters were at Samra’ Timan. 
Al-Bed‘ is the present name of the ancient Madian, or Morajer Su‘ejb. 
They crossed the se%ib of as-Swér about forty kilometers southwest of 
al-Bed* and passed along the al-Mellah road to the oasis of Sarma, which 
is identical with “‘Ujin al-Kasab. I locate al-‘Odejb in the vicinity of 
Umm Gejhile. Al-Mukawel is situated somewhere on the northern border 
of Hmejra’ Krajker on the Darb (road) al-Falak. Al-Ral winds southward 
from Hmejra’ Krajker. Sukk al-‘Agiiz is the Se%b of a8-Skik. The merchant 
Marztk al-Kefafi is forgotten. The people call his grave Kabr at-TwaAsi. 
Al-Bahara extends about fifteen kilometers to the southeast of Zbe’. 


PY Pea: DTTXe eV 
THE PILGRIM ROUTE FROM DAMASCUS 


The Syrian pilgrims’ highroad follows the old transport route of at- 
Tebtkijje, which is referred to by Ibn Ishak (at-Tabari, Ta’rih [De Goeje], 
Ser. 1, pp. 2078 f.). This is clear from Jaktt, Mu‘gam (Wiistenfeld), Vol. 1, 
p. 336; Vol. 2, p. 135, according to whom Muhammed ibn Sa‘ditin al-‘Abdari 
relates that Abu ‘Obejda marched from al-Medina through the valleys 
of al-Kura’, al-Akra’, al-Gunejne, and Tebtik to Sorr, whereupon he en- 
tered Syria. Al-‘Abdari copies the record drawn up by Abu Hudejfa 
Ishak ibn BiSr in his book about the conquest of Syria. The headquarters 
of Wadi al-Kura’ were formed by the modern oasis of al-‘Ela’. Al-Akra‘ 
is situated to the north of al-'Ela’, while al-Gunejne is identical with 
Genajen al-K&azi between al-Akra® and Tebtk. Sorr, which must be read 
in place of the erroneous Sort‘ of the text, denotes the oasis and strong- 
hold of Sorar to the north of Tebtk. 

After the conquest of Syria, many pilgrims and even caliphs and 
members of the ruling house of the Omayyads (Beni Umejja) journeyed 
every year along this road to the Holy Cities. Ibn al-Fakih, Bulddn (De 
Goeje), p. 106, states concerning the Caliph al-Walid, the son of “Abdal- 


THE PILGRIM ROUTE FROM DAMASCUS O27 


malek, that at the various halting places on this Pilgrim Route he had reser- 
voirs built and at some of them infirmaries for pilgrims who were sick. 

No author mentions that the Omayyads had this highroad surveyed 
and furnished with milestones. Only in the holy bounds at Mecca did 
the Caliph Merwan ibn al-Hakam have milestones set up (Ibn Roste, 
A‘lak [De Goeje], p. 56). If this highroad had been furnished with mile- 
stones, the geographers would certainly have told us the distances of the 
various halting places in miles, as they do in the case of the highroad from 
al-Kufa to al-Medina. The older authors do not even record all the halting 
places from Damascus to Mecca and refer to them only in a general way 
without stating the distances. 

Ibn Hordadbeh, Masdlik (De Goeje), p. 150, calls the first and second 
halting places beyond Damascus by the general name of manzal (inn), 
while the third he calls Dat al-Manazel (the place with several inns). 
The first manzal certainly denotes al-Kiswe, while Dat al-Manazel is 
Der ‘at, situated about 105 kilometers to the south of Damascus. Beyond 
this halting place the first name mentioned by him is that of Sorar 
(330 km.), this being the correct reading rather than the erroneous 
Sora’ of the text. Thence, according to Ibn Hordadbeh, the road leads 
to Tebtk, al-Muhdata, and al-Akra’. The name of this latter halting 
place has been preserved in the reservoir of al-Akra‘, about two hundred 
kilometers south-southeast of Tebtik and not far from the railway station 
of al-Mutalla’. The halting place of al-Muhdata is unknown to me, but 
it may be identical with the modern station of al-Mu‘azzam. The ancient 
halting place of al-Ahzar between al-Mu‘azzam and Tebtk is still re- 
membered under this name, but there is no reference to al-Muhdata 
after the time of Sultan al-Malek al-Mu‘azzam, who had the reservoir 
of al-Mu’azzam constructed. It is therefore probable that the old name 
al-Muhdata was replaced by the more modern al-Mu‘azzam. After al- 
Akra’ the next halting place mentioned by Ibn Hordadbeh is al-Gunejne; 
this, however, should have come before al-Akra’ and even before al-Muh- 
data. Al-Akra‘® is only forty kilometers away from the next halting 
place of al-Hegr, so that it is scarcely likely that there was still another 
halting place between them. About halfway between al-Ahzar and al- 
Mu‘azzam (al-Muhdata) is a place known as Genajen al-Kazi with scanty 
remains of the fortified building and reservoir with which all the pilgrims’ 
stations were provided. It is there that we may locate the ancient al- 
Gunejne. From al-Hegr the highroad proceeded to Wadi al-Kura’, or the 
modern al-‘Ela’. 

Ibn Roste, op. cit., p. 1838, and Kodama, Hardg (De Goeje), p. 191, 
omit the first two halting places and mention the following ones in the 
same order as that recorded by Ibn Hordadbeh. 

Al-Mukaddasi, Ahsan (De Goeje), pp. 249f., states that the road 
leading to Tebik begins at “Amman. After two night halts it reaches 
Ma‘an; after the same space, Tebik; and after a further four nights it 
arrives at Tejma. Al-Mukaddasi thus gives the distance from ‘Amman 
to Ma‘an as three days’ march, thence to»Tebtik as likewise three, and 
from Tebtik to Tejma as five. From ‘Amman to Ma‘an is more than 
one hundred and ninety kilometers, so that one day’s march would work 
out at nearly sixty-three kilometers. The length of the daily march 
between Ma‘an and Tebtk would be still greater, amounting to nearly 


328 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


one hundred kilometers, if between these two places there were two 
and not (as given by Codex Constantinopolitanus; zbid., p. 250, note b) 
three night halts (mandhel). As, however, a day’s march on the Pilgrim 
Route always amounts to about sixty kilometers, we must agree with 
the Constantinople codex and assign, not two, but three mandhel between 
Ma‘an and Tebtk. If the author reckons four halting places from Tebtk 
to Tejma, he fixes a day’s march at about fifty-five kilometers and the 
same also for the march from Tejma to the valley of al-Kura’. 

Al-Idrisi, Nuzha (Brandel), p. 28, records more place names than his 
predecessors. These names, however, are recorded so incorrectly that it 
is difficult to locate the places. He asserts that the road from Damascus 
leads to the first halting place of al-Kiswe, which is situated on a hill 
on the western bank of the river al-A‘wag, which flows into a lake. To 
the east of al-Kiswe there stood a large khan in which travelers put 
up for the night. From al-Kiswe it is a day’s march to Zer‘a (Ezra, 
see below; in the text erroneously spelled Da‘a), and after a farther 
march the inhabited settlement of Dat al-Manazel, which I identify with 
Der‘at, is reached. From there onward the location of the various names 
occasions great difficulties. The name of the next halting place, Jant‘ 
or Bant‘’, is the usual erroneous transcription of the accurate Sorar, 
which halting place is mentioned by all the early geographers. But 
from Der‘at to Sorar is more than three hundred kilometers, and al- 
Idrisi does not refer to any halting places situated between them. From 
Sorar it is a day’s march to al-Batanijje, but al-Idrisi writes (Brandel, 
op. cit., p. 80) that Batanijje is identical with Der‘at. After al-Batanijje 
follows the inhabited settlement of Damma (Dimne). We might locate 
this at the halting place of Dat al-Hagg, about forty kilometers south 
of Sorar, near which terminates the se%b of Dimne coming from the 
spring of the same name. Sorar and Dimne in this order would agree 
with the next halting place, Tebtik. The farther halting places are the 
same as those given by the older authors, except that the name al- 
Gunejne is erroneously transcribed as al-Hanifijje. 

In the year 1813 A. D. Abu-l-Feda’ (Muhtasar [Adler], Vol. 5, pp. 
280 f.) made the journey on a camel from Mecca to Hama’ in twenty-five 
days. He estimated the time occupied by his stay at al-Medina, al-‘Ela’, 
Birke Ziza, and Damascus as three days, so that he traversed the whole 
distance in twenty-two days but changed his animal on the journey. 
From Mecca to Hama’ is more than nine hundred kilometers, so that 
Abu-l-Feda’ must have traveled forty-five kilometers a day. As is clear 
from the halting stations mentioned by him, he also proceeded on the 
highroad of at-Tebtkijje. 

When Ibn Batttta (Tuhfa [Defrémery and Sanguinetti], Vol. 1, 
pp. 254f.) set out on his pilgrimage in September, 1826 A. D., he pro- 
ceeded with the pilgrims’ escort from Damascus to al-Kiswe, as-Sanamejn, 
Zeya, Bosra’, and thence by way of Ziza, al-Laggitin, and al-Kerak to Ma‘an. 
— Defrémery and Sanguinetti (loc. cit.) identify Zer‘a with Edra‘at. 
This, however, is not correct, for Zer‘a corresponds to the settlement of 
Ezra’ situated on the direct road from as-Sanamejn to Bosra’, while 
Edra‘at is to the west of it. 

According to Ibn Battita, Ma‘an is situated on the border of Syria. 
To the south of Ma‘an, beyond the halting place of ‘Akabat as-Saww4n 


THE PILGRIM ROUTE FROM DAMASCUS 329 


(the modern ‘Akabat al-Hegazijje) the escort proceeded through a bare, 
rocky plain, of which it is said: ‘‘He who enters it is as if lost, he who 
departs from it is as if new-born.” After two days the escort encamped 
at the halting place of Dat Hagg, where there were two shallow wells 
with water from below but no building. Ibn Battita locates the next 
halting place in the waterless valley of Baldah. This name is not familiar 
to me. The valley itself must be identical with al-Bezwa, which crosses 
the Pilgrim Route about fifty kilometers to the south of Dat al-Hagg. 
The next halting place is situated nearly forty kilometers to the south 
of it. Beyond Tebtk the escort reached a region even more waste than 
the former one and therefore marched more quickly in order to get away 
from it as soon as possible. The halting place of al-Uhajder (al-Ahzar) 
lies in a deep valley enclosed by high slopes in places covered with lava. 
Ibn Battita rightly compares this to a valley of hell. Through this valley 
the escort made its way to the large reservoir of al-Mu‘azzam named 
after a sultan of the Ayyubite family. On the fifth day after leaving 
Tebak the escort reached the halting place of al-Hegr. The data given 
indicate that the daily marches were fifty kilometers long. 

Haggi Halfa (Gihdn numa’, Constantinople, 1145 A. H., pp. 531, 539 f.; 
Musawwada, Codex Vindobonensis, 1282 [Mxt. 389], fol. 187 v.) also de- 
scribes this journey. Beyond Ma‘an comes the waterless halting place of 
Zahr al-‘Akaba, which is said also to be known as ‘Abadan. Then come 
the date palms of Tubejlijjat not far from the settlement of Lis; the 
next place reached is Dat Hagg, or Hagar, where Sultan Suleiman built 
a stronghold and where numerous wild palms grow in small gardens 
irrigated from springs. There follows the halting place of Ka‘ al-Busajt, 
or ‘Ara’id, situated in a sandy region not far from Mount Sarawra’. Thence 
Tebtk is reached. Farther south are the halting places of Morarat al- 
Kalenderijje near a small hill without water, Uhajder, Birket al-Mu‘azzame, 
and Marares az-Zir, or Akrah. A half day’s journey still farther to the 
south from the last-named rises Mount at-Taf, where at Mazham the 
camel of the Prophet Saleh was killed. Thence the road leads east to 
Mabrak an-Naka and via the halting place of al-Hegr to the settlements 
of the Prophet Saleh, where there are rock dwellings and numerous springs, 
from which, however, no water should be drunk. The halting place of 
al-‘Ela’ is a half day’s journey distant from al-Hegr and is situated below 
Mount Anan. — 

The halting place of Zahr al-’Akaba is identical with the small 
stronghold of Fas6‘a, near the slope of “‘Akabat al-Hegazijje. The name 
of ‘Abadan is not used by the old writers for this halting place. The 
oasis of Tubejlijjat must be located at Sorar. What Haggi Halfa means 
by the village of Lis and where he locates it is not clear to me. In his 
Musawwada, or preliminary sketch of the Gihdn numa’ (Codex Vindobonen- 
sis, loc. cit.) he notes Lis in the margin and does not include it at the 
right place. It is possible that Lis stands for Dis or ad-Dise, the name of 
a valley terminating near Sorar. The basin near Sorar could be trans- 
formed into a large oasis. Mehmed Edib, Mendzil (Constantinople, 1232 
A. H.), p. 71, connects Lis with Zahr al-“Akaba and says that it is 
situated beyond ‘Abadan and resembles a village. The halting place of Dat 
Hagg has preserved its name. Ka‘ al-Busajt, or “Ara’id, is identical with 
the halting place of al-Hazm, located in the flat, extensive plain of 


330 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


al-‘Arajed and to the west of Mount Sarawra’. Morarat al-Kalenderijje must 
be sought where the route leaves the plain and enters among rugged 
crags near Zahr al-Hagg. The names Uhajder and Birket al-Mu‘azzame 
have been preserved as al-Ahzar and al-Mu‘azzam respectively. In place 
of Marares az-Zir should be read Mafares ar-Ruzz (rice carpets), as the 
plain is called near the halting place of Dar al-Hamra’ because the 
pilgrims declare that this plain is covered by petrified rice. Akrah is 
erroneously transcribed instead of Akra‘. In place of at-Taf should be 
read at-Tak, which is the modern Abu Taka. The name al-Mazham today 
belongs to a small railway station. 

‘Abdalrani an-Nabulusi (Hakika, Codex Vindobonensis, 1269 [Mxt. 712], 
Vol. 2, fol. 170r.—172v.) on his return from al-Medina in the year 1694 
A.D. spent the night at al-“Ela’ and rode between sand drifts and rugged 
mountains as far as a place called the Wells of the Tamtid, which was 
also known as Medajen Saleh, or al-Hegr. The pilgrims’ escort stayed 
there all night and until the noon of the following day; at midnight it 
reached the defile of Sukk al-“Agiiz, which I identify with the gully of 
Sokb al-‘Agtiz, about forty kilometers distant from al-Hegr. The pilgrims 
then proceeded through the plain of az-Zelakat, which is covered with 
sand and soft stones and where the riding and draft animals frequently 
stumbled, and at daybreak were at al-Ekére’ or Mafares ar-Ruzz. The 
author here is connecting two places which in reality are at some distance 
apart. Al-Ekére’, the name of which is the diminutive form of al-Akra’, 
lies to the southwest of Sokb al-‘“Agiz, while MafareS ar-Ruzz extend 
more than twenty kilometers farther to the north. About an hour after 
sunrise the pilgrims reached Dar al-Hamra’, where they found no water. 
Here they stayed until one o’clock in the afternoon and then continued 
their journey all night as far as the stronghold of al-Mu‘azzam, which 
they reached an hour after sunrise. This they found half-ruined and un- 
inhabited. Formerly it had been guarded by a company of Syrian soldiers, 
but the Bedouins had broken through the walls and murdered the soldiers ; 
whereupon the stronghold had been deserted. To the east of it “Abdal- 
rani inspected a square reservoir, each side of which was two hundred 
cubits long. The wall, one cubit thick, was built of the same material 
as the stronghold. The latter contained a well with an abundance of water. 

Setting out in the afternoon, they rode through a narrow, rough 
valley covered with stones, which valley the author calls as-Safi. It seems 
to me that this is an incorrect transcription of the name Lussan, which 
he hastily noted down while riding on his camel; for Lussan is the 
most difficult section of the Pilgrim Route between al-‘Ela’ and Tebtk 
and the one with the worst reputation. That “Abdalrani actually means 
Lussan is clear from his further statements. They rode for three hours 
through the rough valley, whereupon they arrived at the basin of Genajen 
al-Kazi. This basin lies fifteen kilometers northwest of the beginning of 
LussAn, which would entirely agree with the three hours’ ride. At Genajen 
al-Kazi they found much sand and rugged soil covered with prickly plants 
which tore pieces from their clothing. After sunrise they again entered 
the valley and in three hours were at the halting place of al-Ahzar. 
‘Abdalrani refers to this well-constructed stronghold also as al-Uhajder 
and explains that every year soldiers arrive there from Damascus to 
guard the reservoir against the Bedouins who would like to water their 


THE PILGRIM ROUTE FROM DAMASCUS dol 


flocks in it. Near the reservoir he saw a deep well containing good, fresh 
water, which was said to have been dug for the pilgrims by the Prophet 
al-Hadr, who was honored in the stronghold. 

To the northwest of al-Uhajder the pilgrims left the inhospitable 
valley, and it seemed to them as if they had departed from the lower 
world. From the valley they passed through the gap Nakb al-Uhajder, 
covered with stones and bordered by rugged crags. Here both the people 
and the animals were filled with fear and weariness. At the first gleam 
of daybreak they reached an extensive plain and an hour later arrived 
at the halting place of Morajer Su‘ejb, where there was no water. They 
remained there until four o’clock in the afternoon. This halting place 
is certainly identical with the modern Zahr al-Hagg, situated about 
thirty-five kilometers to the northwest of al-Ahzar. Towards midnight 
they proceeded through the sandy valley of al-Etel and at sunrise had 
before them the stronghold of Tebik, where they encamped. They thought 
that they would meet there with various traders and people dispatched 
toward them from Damascus, but these people were late and had not 
yet arrived. In the powerful stronghold of Tebtik there was a well contain- 
ing good water drawn up by a pump which was set in motion by animals. 
The water thus obtained flowed into a spacious reservoir in the new fortress. 

Having completed their afternoon prayers — that is, toward four 
o’clock — the pilgrims left Tebtk and throughout the night traveled along 
a plain covered with raza until they reached the halting place of al-Ka’, 
or Ka‘ al-Bazwa, which name has been preserved in the modern Se‘tb 
al-Bezwa south of the railway station of al-Hazm. Soon after noon they 
rode on, crossed a narrow but slippery plain at midnight, and encamped 
by the large stronghold of Dat Hagg, where a company of Syrian soldiers 
was guarding the reservoir. They remained there all night, watered their 
animals, provided themselves with water for three days, and at four o’clock 
in the afternoon continued the march. After midnight they again traversed 
a slippery soil, that of Zelakat ‘Ammar near the modern station of Halat 
‘Ammar, and an hour after sunrise stopped at the waterless halting place 
of Gurajman situated among the hills. This is probably another name for 
the site of the modern railway station of al-Mdawwara in the immediate 
vicinity of the ancient pilgrims’ halting place of Sorar; it is remarkable 
that “Abdalrani makes no reference to this old stronghold. After the 
midday prayer the pilgrims rode on through almost impassable territory 
until daybreak, when they ascended the slope of ‘Akabat al-Halawa, or 
the slope of sweetness — so called, “Abdalrani says, because it brought 
the pilgrims the joyful news that they would meet with their friends. 
After a short rest they started off again at noon and did not encamp 
until they reached Ma‘an. 


4 
of 


yw an it Fed oon 


aie . 





BIBLIOGRAPHY 


PALI ner eee 
Tyee 
ins 


self 
fa 


a y Pe v ~ 
ot aS : ros ag 
f vate Of 

LT ye 


i oe 12 
rte 





BRE EO Gah cA Pariey, 


Only such works as are referred to in this volume are listed in the 
bibliography. 

Different works by the same ancient or Arabic author are listed 
together in the same entry and are indicated by Roman numerals. 
Different works by the same modern author are listed separately. 

Of the various names of each Arabic author, the one most frequently 
used is printed first. Where this has necessitated a transposition of the 
proper order of the names, the transposition is indicated by a comma 
(thus: Al-Bekri, Abu “Obejd “Abdallah ibn “Abdal‘’aziz instead of Abu 
“Obejd ‘Abdallah ibn “Abdal‘aziz al-Bekri). 

All dates are A.D. except where otherwise indicated. 


“Abdalrani an-Nabulusi (1641—1731, wrote 1698). Al-hakika wa-l-magdz 
firihlat bildd as-Sém wa Misr wa-l-Higdz: MS, Codex Vindobonensis, 
No. 1269 (Mxt. 712), National-Bibliothek, Vienna. 


Abu-l-Fada’il Safiaddin “Abdalmu’min ibn “Abdalhakk (d. 1838). Mardsid 
al-ittild ‘ala’ asm@ al-amkina wa-l- bika’: edited by T. G. J. Juynboll, 
6 vols., Leiden, 1850—1864. 

Abu-l-Farag ‘Ali al-Isfahani (d. 967). Kitdb al-ardni: 20 vols., Balak, 
1285 A. H. (1868—1869 A.D.); R. E. Briinnow, editor, The Twenty- 
First Volume of the Kitab al-Aghani, Leiden, 1888; Tables alphabéti- 
ques, edited by I. Guidi, 2 vols., Leiden, 1895—1900. 

Abu-l-Feda’ Isma‘il ibn “Ali ibn Mahmtd ibn “Omar ibn Sahansah ibn 
Ajjab “‘Imadaddin al-Ajjabi (1273—1331). I. Muhtasar ta’rth al-basar: 
edition by J. G. Chr. Adler entitled Annales Muslemici, arabice et la- 
tine, opere Jo. Jac. Reisku sumtibus Pet. Fr. Suhmu, 5 vols., Hafniae 
(Copenhagen), 1789—1794. II. Takwim al-bulddn: edition by J. T. 
Reinaud and W. MacGuckin de Slane entitled Géographie d’Aboulféda, 
Paris, 1840. 

Abu Sama, Sihabaddin Abu-l-Kasim ‘Abdarrahm4n ibn Isma‘il (1203-1268). 
kitab ar-rawdatejn fi ahbar ad-dawlatejn: al-Kahira (Cairo), 1287-1288 
A. H. (1869—1872 A.D): also edited and translated by Ch. A. C. Barbier 
de Meynard in Recueil des historiens des croisades, Historiens ori- 
entaux, Vols. 4 and 5, Paris, 1898, 1906. 

Agatharchides of Cnidus (2nd century B. C.). Periplus or De mari 
erythraeo: excerpts from Greek text as quoted by Photius and by 
Diodorus with Latin translation in: Carolus Miillerus (Miiller), 
Geographi graeci minores, Vol. 1, Paris, 1882, pp. 110—195. 

Ahlwardt, W. The Divans of the Six Ancient Arabic Poets..., London, 1870. 

Amiatinus, Codex. See Biblia sacra. 

Assemanus, J. S. Bibliotheca orientalis, 4 vols., Rome, 1719—1728. 

Al-Bekri, Abu “Obejd “Abdallah ibn “Abdal‘aziz (d. 1094). Mu‘gam mé 
ista gama: edition by Ferdinand Wistenfeld entitled Das geographi- 
sche Worterbuch des ...el Bekri, 2 vols., Gottingen, 1876—1877. 

Al-Bekri al Misri, Pacrmaehs abu “Abdallah Menanitind ibn Abi-s-Surtr 
as-Siddiki (d. 1619). At-tuhfat al-bahijje fi tamalluk al “Otmdn ad- 
dijar al- -misrijje: MS, Codex Vindobonensis, No. 925 (A. F. 283 [457]), 
National-Bibliothek, Vienna. 

Al-Beladori, Ahmad ibn Jahja’ ibn Gabir (d. 892). Kitéb futth al-bulddn: 
edition by M. J. De Goeje entitled Liber expugnationis regionum, 
auctore.... al-Belddsori, Lugduni Batavorum (Leiden), 1866. 


335 


336 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Biblia hebraica, edited by Rudolf Kittel, 2nd edition, 2 vols., Leipzig, 19138. 


Biblia sacra latina veteris testamenti Hieronymo interprete ex antiquissima 
auctoritate in stichos descripta. Vulgatam lectionem ex editione cle- 
mentina principe a. MDXCII et romana ultima a. MDCCCLXI repe- 
titam testimonium comitatur codicis amiatini latinorum omnium 
antiquissimi. Editionem instituit suasore Chr. Car. Jos. de Bunsen, 
Th. Heyse, ad finem perduxit C.de Tischendorf, Lipsiae (Leipzig), 1873. 


Blau, O. Altarabische Sprachstudien, in Zeitschrift der Deutschen Morgen- 
lindischen Gesellschaft, Vol. 25, Leipzig, 1871, pp. 525—592. 


Botta, P. E. Monument de Ninive découvert et décrit par ~, mesuré et 
dessiné par E. Flandin; ouvrage publié par ordre du gouvernement 
sous les auspices de le ministre de l’intérieur et sous la direction 
Wune Commission de l’Institut, 5 vols., Paris, 1846—1850. 

Bremond, Gabrielle. Viaggi, edited by G. Corra, Rome, 1679. 

British Museum, Department of Egyptian and Assyrian Antiquities. Cunez- 
form Texts from Babylonian Tablets, etc., in the British Museum, 
London, 1896 ff. 

Caetani, Leone (Principe di Teano). Annali dell’Islam, Vol.1, Milan, 1905. 

Corancez, L. A. Histoire des Wahabis depuis leur origine jusqu’a la fin 
de 1809, Paris, 1810. 

Corani textus arabicus: edited by G. Fligel, 3rd edition, Leipzig, 1869. 

De Goeje, M. J., editor. Bibliotheca geographorum arabicorum, 8 vols., 
Leiden, 1870—1894. 

Delitzsch, Fr. Wo lag das Paradies? Leipzig, 1881. 

Dhorme, Fr. P. Les pays bibliques et VAssyrie (suite), in Revue Biblique, 
New Series, Vol. 7, Paris, 1910, pp. 179—199. 

Diodorus Siculus (c. 20 B. C.). Bibliotheca historica: Vols. 1—3 edited by 
Fridericus Vogel, Vols. 4 and 5 edited by Curtius Theodorus Fischer, 


in Bibliotheca scriptorum graecorum et romanorum teubneriana, 
Leipzig, 1888—1906. 

Eusebius of Caesarea (d. 337 or 340). Onomasticon: edition by Erich 
Klostermann entitled Onomastikon der biblischen Ortsnamen, in Die 
griechischen christlichen Schriftsteller, Vol. 11, Part 1, Husebius 
Werke, Vol. 8, Part 1, Leipzig, 1904. 

Glaser, Eduard. Collection of inscriptions in the National-Bibliothek, 
Vienna, collated for the use of the author by Dr. Adolf Grohmann. 

Hagsi Halfa (or Halifa), Mustafa ibn ‘Abdallah Katib Celebi (d. 1658). 
I. Gihdn numa’: Constantinople, 1145 A. H. (1782—1783 A. D.). 
II. Musawwadat gihan numa’: MS, Codex Vindobonensis, No. 1282 
(Mxt. 389), National-Bibliothek, Vienna. 

Al- -Hamdani, Abu Muhammad al-Hasan ibn Ahmad ibn Ja‘ktb (d. 945). 
Sifat gezirat al- ‘Arab: edited by David Heinrich Miiller, 2 vols., Leiden, 
1884—1891. 

Hassan ibn Tabet (b. ¢. 563). Diwdn: Tunis, 1281 A. H. (1864—1865 A.D.) 

Hebraica, Biblia. See Biblia hebraica. 

Hieronymus. See Jerome. 

Ibn al-Atir, “Ali ion Muhammad ‘Izzaddin (1160—1234). Al-kdmil fi-t-twrih: 
edition by C. J. Tornberg entitled Ibn-el-Athir, Chronicon quod 
perfectissimum inscribitur, 14 vols., Lugduni Batavorum (Leiden), 
1851—1876. 

Ibn Battita, Muhammad ibn “Abdallah (1304—1377). Tuhfat an-nuzzér 
fi rar@ib al-amsdr wa ‘ag@ib al-asfdr: edition by C. Defrémery and 


Ibn 


Ibn 


Ibn 


Ibn 


Ibn 


BIBLIOGRAPHY Ddo7 


B. R. Sanguinetti entitled Voyages d’Ibn Batoutah, texte arabe, ac- 
compagné Mune traduction, 4 vols., Paris, 1853—1858. 

al-Fakih, Abu Bekr Ahmad ibn Muhammad al-Hamadani (wrote 
c. 902). Kitab al-bulddn: edited by M. J. De Goeje in his Bibl. geogr. 
arab., Vol. 5, Leiden, 1885. 

Hagar al-‘Askalani, Abu-l-Fadl Ahmad ibn ‘Ali ibn Muhammad (d. 
1449). Al-isdba fi tamjiz as-sahdba: Arabic edition with English title: 
A Biographical Dictionary of Persons Who Knew Mohammed, by Ibn 
Hajar, 4 vols., Vol. 1 edited by Mawlawies Mohammad Wajyh, ’Abd- 
al-Haqq, Gholam Qadir, and A. Sprenger; Vols. 2—4 edited by Maulavi 
Abdul Hai; Calcutta, 1856, 1893, 1888, 1873. 


Haldtin, Abu Zajd “Abdarrahman ibn Muhammad ibn Muhammad 
(1832—1406). I. Mukaddima: edition by Et. Quatremére entitled 
Prolégomenes d’Ebn Khaldoun in Notices et extraits des manuscrits 
de la Bibliotheque Impériale, Vols. 16—18, Paris, 1858. Il. Kitab 
al-ibar wa diwdn al-mubtadw’ wa-l-habar fi ajjam al-Arab wa-l- 
‘Agam wa-l-Berber, 7 vols., Balak, 1284 A.H. (1867—1868 A.D.). 


Hawkal, Abu-l-Kasim (wrote 977). Kitab al-masadlik wa-l-mamadlik: 
edited by M. J. De Goeje in his Bibl. geogr. arab., Vol. 2, Leiden, 1873. 


Hisam, “Abdalmalik (d. 834). See Ibn Ishak. 


Ibn Hordadbeh, Abu-l-Kasim “Obajdallah ibn “Abdallah (wrote c. 848). Kitab 


Ibn 


Ibn 


Ibn 


Ibn 


al-masadlik wa-l-mamdalik, edited and translated by M. J. De Goeje in his 
Bibl. geogr. arab., Vol. 6, Leiden, 1889, pp. 1—183; translation, pp. 1—144. 


Ishak, Muhammad (d. ¢. 768). Kitab strat rastil allah as edited by 
“A bdalmalik ibn Hisém (d. 834): edition by Ferdinand Wiistenfeld 
entitled Das Leben Muhammed’s nach Muhammed Ibn Ishak bearbeitet 
von Abd el-Malik Ibn Hischdm, 2 vols. in 8, Gottingen, 1858—1860. 


Manztr al-Ansari al-Hazragi al-Ifriki, GemAaladdin Abu-l- Fadl Mu- 
hammad ibn Mukarram ibn ‘Ali (d. 1311). Lisdn al-‘Arab, 20 vols., 
Balak, 1300—1307 A. H. (1883—1891 A.D.). 

Roste, Abu “Ali Ahmad ibn “Omar (visited al-Medina 903). Kitab 
al-a‘lak an-nafisa, edited by M. J. De Goeje in his Bibl. geogr. arab., 
Vol. 7, Leiden, 1892, pp. 1—229. 

Sa‘d ibn Mani® az-Zuhri, Abu “Abdallah Muhammad (d. 845). Kitab 
at-tabakdt al-kebir: edition by Eduard Sachau entitled Biographien 
Muhammeds, seiner Gefdhrten und der spateren Trager des Islams 
bis zum Jahre 230 der Flucht, 9 vols., Leiden, 1904—1909. 


Al-Idrisi, Abu “Abdallah Muhammad ibn Muhammad ibn ‘Abdallah ibn 


Idris as-Sarif (1100—1166). I. Kitdéb nuzhat al-mustdak fr-’htirak 
al-afadk: French translation by P. A. Jaubert entitled Géographie 
VEdrisi, traduite de lVarabe en francais, constituting Recueil de voy- 
ages et de mémoires publié par la Société de Géographie, Vols. 5 
and 6, Paris, 18836—1840. II. Kitab nuzhat al-mustdak fi dikr al-amsar 
wa-l- aktér wa-l-buldén wa-l-guzur wa-l-mad@in wa-l-dfdk (a syn- 
opsis of I.): Rome 1592; also an edition by R. A. Brandel entitled 
Om och ur den arabiske geografen Idrisi, Upsala, 1894. 


Al-Istahri, Abu Ishak Ibrahim ibn Muhammad al-Faresi (fl. 951). Kitab 


masdlik al-mamalik: edited by M. J. De Goeje in his Bibl. geogr. arab., 
Vol. 1, Leiden, 1870. 


Al-Ja‘kabi, Ahmad ibn abi Ja‘kib ibn WAadih al-Katib (fl. 891). I. Twvih: 


edition by M. Th. Houtsma entitled Ibn Wadhih qui dicitur al-Ja‘qubi, 
Historiae, 2 vols., Lugduni Batavorum (Leiden), 1888. II. Kitab al- 
bulddn: edited by M. J. De Goeje, 2nd edition in his Bibl. geogr. arab., 
Vol. 7, Leiden, 1892, pp. 231—373. 


338 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Jaktit ibn “Abdallah ar-Rtimi (d. 1224). Kitab mu‘gam al-bulddn: edited 
by Ferdinand Wiistenfeld, 6 vols., Leipzig, 1866—1873. 


Jerome (or Eusebius Hieronymus) (d. 420). Commentariorum in Isaiam 
libri duodeviginti, in: J. P. Migne, Patrologiae cursus completus..., 
series latina, Vol. 24, Paris, 1845. 


Josephus, Flavius (87—c. 95). Archaeologia: edited by Samuel Adrianus 
Naber, 4 vols., in Bibliotheca scriptorum graecorum et romanorum 
teubneriana, Leipzig, 1888—1892. 


Al-Kazwini, Zakarija’ ibn Muhammad ibn Mahmtd (d.1283). Cosmography, 
consisting of Kitab ‘aga@ib al- mahlikat and Kitab atdr al-bildd: 
edition by Ferdinand Wiistenfeld entitled Zakarija Ben Muhammed 
Ben Mahmud el-Cazwini’s Kosmographie, 2 vols., Gottingen, 1848—1849; 
Kitab ‘ag@ib al-mahlikat, al-Kahira (Cairo), 1321 AN dal: (1903—1904 
A=D-). 

Kodama ibn Ga‘far, al-Katib al-Bardadi, Abu-l-Farag (d. 922). Nabd min 
“Kitab al-hardg”’: edited and transleted by M. J. De Goeje in his Bibl. 
geogr. arab., Vol. 6, Leiden, 1889, pp. 184—266; translation, pp. 144—208. 


Koran. See Corani... etc. 


Kusejr “Amra, 2 vols., Vol. 1, text; Vol. 2, 41 colored plates; Kaiserliche 
Akademie der Wissenschaften, Vienna, 1907. 


Lammens, Henri. L’ancienne frontiére entre la Syrie et le Hidjdz (Notes 
de géographie historique), in Bulletin de V’ Institut Francais d’ Archéo- 
logie Orientale, Vol. 14, Cairo, 1918, pp. 69—96. 


Layard, A. H. Inscriptions in Cuneiform Character from Assyrian Mon- 
uments, London, 1882. 


Lebid, Ibn Rabia abu ‘Akil (d. 661 or 680). Diwdn: edited by Juisuf 
Dija ad-Din al-Chalidi, Vienna, 1880. 

Lisan al--Arab. See Ibn Manzir. 

Lyon, D. G. Keilschrifttexte Sargon’s, Konigs von Assyrien (722—705 
v. Chr.); nach den Originalen neu herausgegeben, umschrieben, tiber- 


setzt und erklart von Dr.w, constituting Assyriologische Bibliothek, 
edited by Friedrich Delitzsch und Paul Haupt, Vol. 5, Leipzig, 1883. 


Al-Makrizi, Abu-l-“Abbas Ahmad ibn ‘Ali ibn ‘Abdalkadir ibn Muhammad 
al-Husajni Takiaddin (d. 1442). I. Al-mawd ‘Vz wa-l-v'tibar fid dikr al- hitat 
wa-l-dtar: Codex Vindobonensis, No. 908 (A. F. 69), 2 vols., National- 
Bibliothek, Vienna; edition by Gaston Wiet, entitled El-Mawd iz 
wo'l-i'tibar ft dhikr el-khitat wa’l-dthar, 2 vols., Cairo, 1911—1913: 
translated by E. Blochet with title Histoire d’Egypte de Makrizi, 
Paris, 1908. II. As-sulik lima‘rifat duwal al-mulik: translated by 
[E. M.] Quatremere with title Histoire des sultans mamlouks de 
VEgypte, 2 vols., Paris, 1887—1845. 


Malchus of Philadelphia (fl. 5th cent.). Fragments, edited by Carolus 
Millerus (Miller) in his Fvagmenta historicorum graecorum, Vol. 4, 
Paris, 1851, pp. 111—1832. 


Marcianus of Heraclea (c. 400). Periplus maris exteri, edited with Latin 
translation by Carolus Miullerus (Miiller) in his Geographi graeci 
minores, Vol. 1, Paris, 1855, pp. 516—562. 


Al-Mas‘tdi, Abu-l-Hasan “Ali ibn al- -Husajn (d. 956). Kitab at-tanbih 
wa- l-i3r df: edited by M. J. De Goeje in his Bibl. geogr. arab., Vol. 8, 
Leiden, 1894, 


Mehmed Edib ibn Mehmed Derwis, Al-Hagg (d. 1801). Nehget al-mendazil: 
Constantinople, 1232 A.H. (1817 A. D.): 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 339 


Al-Mukaddasi, Abu ‘Abdallah Muhammad ibn Ahmad (b. 946, wrote 985). 
Ahsan at-takdsim fi ma‘rifat al-akdlim, edited by M. J. De Goeje in 
his Bibl. geogr. arab., Vol. 3, 2nd edition, Leiden, 1906. 


Miller, D. H. Epigraphische Denkmdler aus Arabien (nach Abklatschen 
und Copien des Herrn Professor Dr. Julius Euting in Strassburg), 
in Denkschriften der kaiserlichen Akademie der Wissenschaften, phi- 
losophisch-historische Classe, Vol. 37, Part 2, Vienna, 1889, pp. 1—96. 


Musil, Alois. Arabia Petraea: 3 vols. in 4, Vol. 1, Moab; Vol. 2 (in 2 
parts), Edom; Vol. 38, Ethnologischer Reisebericht; Kaiserliche Aka- 
demie der Wissenschaften, Vienna, 1907—1908. 


Musil, Alois. Karte von Arabia Petraea nach eigenen Aufnahmen von 
Professor Dr.~: scale 1:3800,000; 3 sheets, each 65X50 cm., Kaiser- 
liche Akademie der Wissenschaften, Vienna, 1907. 

Musil, Alois. Kusejr “Amra in Kusejr “Amra, Vol. 1, Vienna, 1907, pp. 
3—186. 


Musil, Alois. Umgebungskarte von Wadi Misa (Petra): scale 1: 20,000, 
Kaiserliche Akademie der Wissenschaften, Vienna, 1907. 

An-Nabira ad-Dubjani, Zijad ibn Mu‘awija (c. 600). Diwdn: edited with 
title Le Diwan de Nabiga Dhobyani...., texte arabe suivi dune 


traduction francaise par M. Hartwig Derenbourg, in Journal asiatique, 
Paris, 1868. 


An-Nawawi, Abu Zakarija’ Jahja’ (d.1278). Kitab tahdib al-asm@ wa-l- 
lurdt: edition by Ferdinand Wustenfeld entitled The Bibliographical 
Dictionary of Illustrious Men Chiefly at the Beginning of Islamism, 
2 vols., Gottingen, 1842—1847. 


Notitia dignitatum: accedunt notitia urbis constantinopolitanae et later- 
cult provinciarum, edited by Otto Seeck, Berlin, 1876. 


Peutinger Table. See Tabula Peutingeriana. 
Photius (d. 891). See Agatharchides of Cnidus. 


Pliny (C. Plinius Secundus) (d. 79). Naturalis historia, edited by 
C. Mayhoff, 2nd edition, 6 vols., Leipzig, 1892—1909; see also 
D. Detlefsen, editor, Die geographischen Biicher (II, 242-VI Schluss) 
der Naturalis historia des C. Plinius Secundus mit vollstdéndigem kri- 
tischen Apparat (constituting Quellen und Forschungen zur alten 
Geschichte und Geographie, edited by W. Sieglin, Vol. 9), Berlin, 1904. 


Procopius of Caesarea (c. 560). De bello persico, edited by Jacobus Haury 
in Bibliotheca scriptorum graecorum et romanorum teubneriana, 
Leipzig, 1905. 


Ptolemy (Claudius Ptolemaeus) (c. 150). Geographia: edited by C. F. 
A. Nobbe, 3 vols., Leipzig, 1843—1845; bks. i—v edited with Latin 
translation and atlas, Vol. 1, Part 1, by Carolus Miillerus (Miiller), 
Paris, 1884; Vol. 1, Part 2, by C. Th. Fischer, Paris, 1901. 

Ravenna Geographer, The Anonymous (7th cent.) Cosmographia, edited 
by M. Pinder and G. Parthey in their Ravennatis anonymi Cosmo- 
graphia et Guidonis Geographica, Berlin, 1860, pp. 1-445. 

Rawlinson, H. C. Cuneiform Inscriptions of Western Asia, 5 vols., Lon- 
don, 1861—1884. 


Rost, Paul. Die Keilschrifttexte Tiglat Pileser III, nach den Papier- 
abklatchen und Originalen des Britischen Museums, 2 vols., Vol. 1, 
Einleitung, Transcription und Ubersetzung, Worterverzeichnis und 
Commentar; Vol. 2, Autographierte Texte, Leipzig, 1893. 


Sargon. See Lyon, D.G., and Winckler, Hugo. 


340 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Schrader, Eberhard, editor. Kezlinschriftliche Bibliothek: Sammlung von 
assyrischen und babylonischen Texten in Umschrift und Ueber- 
setzungen..., Berlin, Vol. 1, 1889; Vol. 2, 1890; Vol. 8, Part 1, 1892; 
Volto, eb art oc; 10909 2V 014-11 896° WV Ole db 21 S96 3V olfG.e Lars bt ouu: 


Seetzen, U.J., Beitraige zur Geographie Arabiens, in Monatliche Corres- 
pondenz zur Beforderung der Evrd- und Himmelskunde, edited by 
F. von Zach, Vol. 18, Gotha, 1808, pp. 374—393. 


Septuagint, The: edited by Henry Barclay Swete, The Old Testament in Greek 
According to the Septuagint, 2nd edition, 3 vols., Cambridge, 1891—1895. 
Sprenger, A. Das Leben und die Lehre des Mohammad, 8 vols., Berlin, 1869. 


Stephen of Byzantium (c. 600). Hthnica: edited by August Meineke, 
Ethnicorum quae supersunt, Vol. 1 (all published), Berlin, 1879. 


Strabo (c. 63 B.C.—c. 19 A. D.). Geographia: edited by August Meineke, 
in Bibliotheca scriptorum graecorum et romanorum teubneriana, svols., 
Leipzig, 1907—1913. . 

At-Tabari, Abu Ga‘far Muhammad ibn Garir (d. 923). Twrih ar-rusul 
wa-l-mulik: edition by M. J. De Goeje and others entitled Annales 
quos scripsit Abu Djafar Mohammed ibn Djarir at-Tabari, 3 series 
in 15 vols., Lugduni Batavorum (Leiden), 1879—1903. 


Tabula Peutingeriana (12th century MS copy of Roman map of time 
of the Empire): photographic edition in 11 sheets entitled Pewtin- 
geriana Tabula Itineraria ... nune primum arte photographica ex- 
pressa, Vienna, 1888. 


Theophanes (c. 758—818). Chronographia, in: J. P. Migne, Patrologiae 
cursus completus..., series graeca, Vol. 108, Paris, 1861, cols. 55—1010. 

Thevenot, Jean de (1633—1667). Voyages en Europe, Asie, et Afrique, 
5 vols., Paris, 1689. 

Uranius. Arabica: edited by Carolus Millerus (Miller) in his Fragmenta 
historicorum graecorum, Vol. 4, Paris, 1851, pp. 523—526. 


Varthema, Ludovico di. Itinerario: English translation entitled The Travels 
of Ludovico di Varthema... A.D. 1503 to 1508, translated... by John 
Winter Jones... and edited by George Percy Badger (constituting 
Vol. 32 of the Hakluyt Society Publications, First Series), London, 1863. 


Velenovsky, J. Plantae arabicae musilianae: in Véstnik kral. éeské spolec- 
nosti nauk (Sitzungsberichte der konigl. bohm. Gesellschaft der 
Wissenschaften), 1911, No. 11, Prague, 1912. 

Velenovsky, J. Arabské rostliny z posledni cesty Musilovy 7.1915. Plantae ara- 
bicae ex ultimo itinere A. Musili a. 1915:in Véstnik kral. ceské spoleénosti 
nauk. Trida II. na rok 1921—1922 (Mémoires de la Société Royale des 
Sciences de Bohéme, Classe des Sciences, 1921—1922), Prague, 1923. 

Al-Wakedi, Abu “Abdallah Muhammad ibn “Omar (d. 823). Kitab al-mardzi: 
edition by Alfred von Kremer entitled History of Muhammad’s Cam- 
paigns, by Aboo’Abd Ollah Mohammad ’bin Omar al-Wdkidy, Calcutta, 
1856 (in Bibliotheca indica); German translation edited by J. Wellhausen 
entitled Muhammed in Medina. Das ist Vakidi’s Kitab al-Maghazi in 
verkurzter deutscher Wiedergabe, Berlin, 1882. 


Winckler, Hugo. Die Keilschrifttexte Sargon’s nach den Papierabklat- 
schen und Originalen neu herausgegeben, 2 vols., Vol. 1, Historisch- 
sachliche Einleitung, Umschrift und Ubersetzung, Worterverzeichnis; 
Vol. 2, Texte, autographiert von Dr. Ludwig Abel, Leipzig, 1889. 

Winckler, Hugo. Keilinschriftliches Textbuch zum Alten Testament, 3rd 
edition, Leipzig; 1909. 

Az-Zabidi, Muhammad Murtada’ ibn Muhammad ibn “Abdarrazzak al-Husajni 
(d. 1791). Tag al-‘aris, 10 vols., Balak, 1807—1808 A. H. (1889—1890). 


TEND Eexs 





INDEX 


The positions of place names occurring on the map of the Northern 
Hegdz accompanying this volume are indicated vn the index in parentheses 
by key letters and figures referring to the quadrangles on the map. The 
reader should also consult the accompanying index map of the author’s 
route and of his topographical descriptions. 

The letters NA refer to the author’s map of Northern Arabia which 
will accompany forthcoming volumes of the present series. 

The most important page references are given in italics. 

Brief, non-technical characterizations are given in parentheses for 
the majority of the Arabic botanical terms. The Latin names of such 
plants as have been identified by J. Velenovsky (see Bibliography, p. 340) 


are also given. 


“A. Abbreviation for “Ajn. See proper name 

Al-A‘al (k9), 211 

Al-A‘ar, 322 

Al-A‘ara’, 322 

Aaron, 264, 271, 286 

“Abadan, 329 

Abbassides, 61, 321 

Al-‘Abd (h6), 176 

“Abdal‘aziz eben ‘Abdarrahman eben Sa‘td, 
Pic, PAS 

“Abdal‘aziz eben RaSsid, 24 

“Abdallah Pasha, 33 

‘Abdalrani an-Nabulusi, 282, 325, 326, 330, 
3381, 335 

“‘Abdarrahman eben Sa‘td, 23 

‘Abdarrahman Effendi, 163, 167, 171, 234 

“Abde, 258, 255, 266 

“Abdejn (g2), 113 

“Abdul-Hamid, 78 

Al-Abejjez, Ras (15—6) 

“Abejter, Radir (i5—6), 181, 190 

“Abejtran. See Ba‘étran 

Abhak (j10), 218 

Al-‘Abid, 4 

Abida‘, 287, 292, 293 

Abigail, 277 

Al-Abjaz (¢5); (h4), 135 

Al-Abjaz, S., (¢5), 48 

Al-Abjaz, Wadi (f3), 72, 73, 96, 97, 99, 100, 
101—106, 115, 182, 270, 297, 308, 322, 324, 326 

Abocharab, 307, 308 

Abraham, 48, 217, 248, 260, 265, 266, 279, 281, 
282, 286—289, 292—294, 296, 323, 324 

Al-Abrak (d4), 41, 47, 68; (e5—6), 43 

Abrak al-‘Asar (j—k11), 219, 222 

“Abs, Beni, 316 

Abu, See main part of topographical proper 
name 

Abu Hudajfa, 38, 256 

Abukaion Koromanis, 318 — 

Abu-l-Fada’il, 125, 218, 335 

Abu-l-Farag, 11, 160, 211, 335 

Abu-l-Fath Nasr, 218 


Abu-l-Feda’, 48, 61, 84, 189, 218, 256, 328, 335 

Abu-l-HaSem, 60 

Abu Muhammed al-Aswad, 79 

Abu ‘Obejda, 33, 38, 256, 326 

Abu Ruhm Kultim ibn Husejn al-Rifari, 229 

Abu Sama, a chief of the Beli, 128 

Abu Sama, 15, 49, 273, 335 

Abu Tkéka, 93, 118, 121, 127, 129 

Abu Zejd al-Ansari, 256 

Abu Zejd al-Balhi, 280 

Abyssinia, 287 

Acalin, 310 

“Aéba (j8), 205 

Achoali, 310 

Achrona, 313 

Achrua, 313 

‘Ad, people of, 217, 273, 301, 316 

“Adal, 301 

“Adame, Umm (g5), 149 

Adbe’él, 291 

Ad Dianam, 64, 65, 66 

‘Ader (a scented subshrub with pinnate leaves 
and small flowers), 32, 174 

Adian, 65, 66 

Al-‘Adrijjat, Se‘iban (NA k—I5), 11, 32 

Adruhyobse tl ies Lape o 

Adumu, 5, 311 

Aela, 305, 306 

Aelana, 299, 305 

Aelanites, 305 

Aelanitiec Gulf, 304, 305, 306 

Aelius Gallus, 299, 310 

°Afejz al-Asmar, 219, 222 

Al-‘Aféz (j11), 220 

“Affan (j6), 134 

“Afnan; 121, 127—129, 181, 137—139, 144; on 
the Turkish Government, 129 

Africa, 84, 322, 326 

‘Agarem, Abu (b6), 16; (3), 62 

Al-‘Agat (£6), 35, 160 

Agatharchides, 291, 292, 302, 335 

Al-Agawel, 90 

“Agejgat, Abu (h7), 172 


343 


344 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


“Agejsat, “Ajn abu (h7), 234 

Al-‘Agelin (d4), 47, 68 

‘Agirt al-Helw (h—i9), 226 

Agkale, 94, 318 

<Aglan, 28 

Al-“Agman, 23 

Agra, 299 

‘Agram (a shrub with long, stiff branches 
and scaled, needle-shaped leaves; resembles 
rimt), 68 

Agreni, 311 

Ague, 129, 187, 148, 190, 202 

“Asage, 113 

Al-‘Agtz, 144 

Al-Agza‘, 133 

Al-Aharr (110), 212 

Al-Ahawat (g4), 149 

Al-Ahdar, 229, 230, 318 

Ahejmer (c3—4), 47, 65 

Al-Ahejmer, Nakb (g8—4), 103 

Al-Ahkaf, 301, 316 

Ahl ad-Dire, 20 

Al-Ahmar (c5), 41 

Ahmed eben Der‘, 174 

Al-Ahzar (h9) 

Al-Ahzar, Kal‘at (h8—9), 202, 229—232, 3138, 
Sw B¥AG BYAS BBY) 

Al-Ahzar, W. (h—i8), 155, 201, 202, 204 

Aila, 60, 64—66, 299, 305, 307, 308 

Aila, Gulf of, 308, 312 

Ailanitic Gulf, 300 

Aina, 306 

Ainu, island of, 306 

Al-Ajde, 26, 155, 175, 201, 202, 221228, 225, 
230, 284 

Al-‘Ajdijje, 101 

Al-‘Ajenat (£4), 96; (h8) 

Al-SAjjaba, 235 

“Ajjas, Umm (b5), 10 

Ajjaib, Beni, 224 

Al-Ajka, 280, 319 

Ajla (d2), 15, 48,-49, 71, 72, 79, 80, 88—=85, 
87, 94, 115, 1834—186, 1389, 204, 254, 255, 256, 
Ais ONS Hl, JAR, AIO Al, PEW et, He 
316, 817, 821—324; well of, 88, 89 

Ajlan (15), 133 

Al-Ajm, 315, 316 

“Ajn. See proper name 

“Ajn, war scout, 269 

“Ajn (h7) 

Al-‘Ajn (238), 100, 102 

Al-‘Ajn, S. (e—f2), 95 

FA INUNa o( NS) sede COS eco op me lets 
12859130,0136,258;1269, o0s,nol2sol2 oes 

“Ajnuwunna’, 125 

“Ajr, 218, 219 

Al-‘Ajrén (h7), 172 

‘Ajrijje (a6), 11, 15 

“Akab, Umm (i4), 133 

Al-‘Akaba (k9), 212 

Al-‘Akaba (d2), 5, 15, 39, 48, 49, 62, 64, 66, 
69, 70, 76, 81—89, 91, 95, 97, 128, 244, 252, 
257, 259, 261—263, 267—270, 272, 275, 276, 
287, 290, 292, 296—298, 308, 324, 325; strong- 
hold, 85, 86; tower, 87 

Al-‘Akaba, Gulf of (h-g1, g-f-e-d2), 48, 244, 245 


Al-‘Akaba, (cont.) 252, 261-264, 268, 272, 273, 279, 
282, 287, 292, 295-297, 302, 308, 305, 306, 308, 312 

Al-‘Akaba, Kal‘at, 325 

“Akabat Ajla, 89, 257 

“Akabat al-Halawa, 331 


“Akabat as-Sawwan, 328 

“Akabat Hajdar, 232 

Al-‘Akabil (18) 

Al-‘Akajle, 4 

Al-‘Akejb, 301 

‘Akejka (b5), 70, 11, 51 

“Akejka, “Ajn, (b4) 

Al-‘Akejl, 84 

Al-‘Akejla (e6—7), 38; (i11), 220 

Al-‘Akejlat, 235 

Al-‘Akejrbe, 206 

‘Aker (h5), 156 

Al-‘Aker (£3) 

Al-‘Aker, Harm (f3), 97 

Al-Akmas (i9) 

Akra‘, 220 

Al-Akra* (k11), 33, 220, 326, 327, 830 

“Akrabim, 265 > 

Akrah, 220, 329, 330 

Ala’i, 318 

“Alakann(€s)sai2,nlom loon 1O,moL | 

“Alalan, 317 

Al-‘Alanda, 316 

“Alas (h4), 188 

“Alawin, 6, 54, 59—61, 65, 80; clans, 69 

“Alda, Harm abu (NA m6), 32 

“Alda, Umm (e5), 41 

“Alegan (g3) 97, 101, 1038 

‘Alejdijjat, S. abu (c5), 14, 37, 39 

“Alejjan eben Sadfan, 197 

“Alejjan, Harm (NA l-m5), 32 

“Alejkat, Abu (g4—5), 149 

“Aléka, Abu (b4) 

Aleppo, 261 

Alexandria, 1, 299 

“Ali ibn ‘Abdallah ibn ‘Abbas, 60, 61 

“Ali ibn Abi Taleb, 314 

“Alija. See Frejs ‘Alija 

Amalek, 244, 260, 261 

Amalekites, 244, 245, 247, 253, 259—262, 269, 
271, 275, 276, 288, 284; origin, territory, etc., 259 

“Amamre, 7 

Al-“Amara (k9), 211, 214 

“Amarat, 282 

“Amarin, 96, 101 

Amaziah, 244, 253 

‘Amel (k5, j—k5) 

‘Amel, Umm (j5), 136 

Amhar (j9), 218 

“Amman, 61, 317, 327 

“Ammar (d5), 41 

Ammon, 284 

Ammonites, 244, 258, 255, 259, 262, 263, 265, 
PHL. PASS. HAMS 

Ammu. See main part of proper name 

ha-Amorim, 271 

Amorites, 255; mountains of, 263—265, 270—272, 
VA ts Pay AS] Ss oye Ko Me) muy | 

Amorkesos 259, 306, 307 

Amos, Book of, 249 


INDEX 


‘Amr ibn al-‘As, 134, 321 

“Amr, the Ghassanian, 228 

Al-Amrar (j10); (g2), 115; (g6), 150 

“Amrat, Habari (NA m5), 32 

Amtar (k9), 212 

“Amud, Abu (b—c5), 7, 14, 15, 38 

“Amud, MSas abu, 37 

“Amiud Zafar (18) 

Amwas (g3), 97, 105 

Anagemi, 300, 310 

Anan, 329 

Anastatica hierochuntina, L. See Caff mar- 
jam and Knéfde 

“Anejza, Kal‘at (a4—5) 

Al-‘Anejzi (¢4) 

“Aneze, 218 

“Anka (18), 134 

“Anstrijje (h4), 133, 141 

“Antar, poet, 218 

Antilebanon, 284 

Apataioi, 311 

Aqueducts, 52, 58, 125 

Arab, 94, 275 

Al-‘Araba (d2—3, e—b3), 49, 58, 64, 66, 78, 88, 
85, 244, 250, 254, 255, 262, 263, 265, 266, 270, 271, 
273, 276—278, 282, 286, 287, 296, 309, 317, 321 

‘Araba, road of, 254, 264, 265, 272, 297 

Arabia, 5, 48, 217, 2483—247, 249, 251, 252, 254, 
PANS, CAS, ZG, CG Zee, AG, PS), PALO, 
283, 287—294, 299, 308, 305—312 

Arabia Beata, 310 

Arabia, Central, 293 

Arabia Deserta, 310, 311 

Arabia Eudaimon, 309, 310 

Arabia Felix, 44, 114, 124, 185, 246, 255, 256, 
261, 273, 279, 292, 300, 308—312, 318 

Arabia Petraea, 44, 60, 246, 255, 258, 306, 307, 
309—811 

Arabian desert, 312 

Arabian trade, 243 

Arabic language, 162, 164 

Arabic names, xi 

Arabic terms, xii 

Arabic writers, on frontiers, 256, 258; on 
Ma‘an, 247; on the Northern Hegaz, 302 

Arabs, 48, 100, 104, 217, 218, 244, 245, 248, 254, 
=i, iy, ee, ey, Sil’ 

Araceni, 300, 310, 311 

Arad, 271 

‘Ardd (ashrub with thin branches and yellow- 
ish hairy leaves; resembles rite), 121 

‘Arad, Abu (g9) 

Al-“Aradat, 211 

Al-‘Araf. See Hala’-l-“Araf 

“Ara’id, 160, 329 

Al-‘Arajed (f—g6), 72, 73, 160, 330 

Al-‘Arajjek, Nakb (15), 144 

Al-‘Arajkén (e2), 95 

Araka, 121 

Aram, 273, 312 

Ardm, landmarks, 197 

Al-‘Aramat, 79, 80 

Aramaua, 273, 312 

‘Ar‘ar eben Gazi, 7, 21, 22 

Al-Ararr, 321, 322 

Al-Araz, 322 


045 


SAT Ceei2 ele 

Ardad (f2), 101 

Al-‘Arejf (k11), 220 

“Arejf al-Ralajin, 100 

“Arejga (e3), 95, 100 

Arejka (h4), 1438 

“Arejka (g5), 149 

“Arejkén (g7), 169, 172 

“Arejkib, Umm, 150, 155, 156 

Al-‘Arejza (b4), 51 

Aretas, 59, 310 

Al-‘Arfa (a7), 11 

“Arfeg (Musilia arabica, Vel.; a bushy subshrub 
with white branches, small leaves and heads 
of scented yellow flowers), 154, 179, 183, 
184, 226 

Aribi, 254, 272 

“Arid, Ibn, 319 

Al-‘Ari8, 286 

Aristida plumosa, L. See Nasi 

“Arktb al-MSejti (b3), 50, 55 

Arnon, 2838 

Arraceni, 300 

Arreni, 300, 310, 311 

Arta (j10), 218 

Arta (Calligonum comosum, L.; a nearly leaf- 
less shrub with scaled branches, clusters 
of small flowers and nutshaped hairy fruits; 
see Fig. 66; the camels are grazing on arta; 
the tree-like shrub beyond is raza), 148, 175, 
Vile omliomee 

Arta, Umm (jll), 220, 222; see also Kart 
umm Arta 

Artemidorus, 38, 804, 305 

Artemisia judaica, L. See Ba‘étran 

Arubi, 254, 272 

Arubu, 288 

Al-Arwah (d3), 90 

Al-As‘ad (i10), 227 

Al-Asad, Wadi, 224 

Al-Asajle (i4), 182 

Asal, 257 

Al-‘Asar (1—m11) 

Al-Asawed, 90 

“Asban, 77 

Asdod, 290 

“Asejfir (h7), 172, 194 

Asejher (f8), 97, 101 

Al-Asejher, 181 

CAseran( ht) adics2o2e oo 

Al-Asfal (k9), 211 

Al-‘Asfara (h7), 172 

AShab (h5), 156, 179, 180 

Al-ASshab (c3), 64, 65; (110), 212, 215; (e2—8); 
(f3), 96, 100 

Al-‘Asi (k10), 212, 214; (h5), 156 

‘Asi Hurma, 232, 320 

Askalon, 288, 291 

‘Asla (dark green shrub), 122 

Al-‘Asla (h2), 117 

Al-Asma‘i, 256 

Asmar (g2), 116 

Al-Asmar (e2), 95 

“ASrin, Umm (d4), 45, 68 

Assemanus, J. S., 60, 3385 

ASsstrim, 287, 293 


346 THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Assyria, 243 

Assyrians, 246, 247 

Asteriscus graveolens, Forsk. See Niked 

Astragalus cahiricus, DC. See Iden al-hmdr 

Astragalus Forskahlei, Boiss. See Zetdde 

“ASG8 abu Radir (b—c5), 11, 12 

Ataleb, 301 

Al-Ataleb, 300, 301 

Al-Atalet, 301 

Al-‘Atane (i7); (i—Jj7), 201 

ha-Atarim, 271 

“Atawne, 45, 144, 182, 187, 188, 235, 324 

Athritai, 311 

“Atijje, Beni (d—e6, f7—8, g8—9, h10), 16, 22, 
26, 28, 45, 105, 128, 189, 144, 148, 149, 152, 
153, 155, 156, 168, 165, 168, 169, 174, 175, 178, 
181, 193, 199, 201, 203, 229, 234—237, 289, 
3238, 324; clans, 235, 236; head chief, 152 

Al-“Atjat, 235, 236 

“Atka (j8), 205, 206 

“Atra (c4), 47, 65 

“Atitid (c3), 66, 67 

“Attd, Bijar (b4), 51 

Auara, 59, 60 

Ausitis, 251 

Avalitae, 310 

“Awad, 168 

‘Awader, Ammu (i10), 226 

Al-A‘wag, 328 

Al-Awan (k9), 212 

Al-“Awasa, 69 

SA Weil sane 

“Awde abu Tajeh, 2, 6, 7—9, 13, 16—19, 21, 
22, 24—29, 36, 87, 61, 235; camp, 17; depar- 
ture from his camp, 29 

“Awérez (110), 212, 217 

Al-‘Awérez, Harrat (j9—10, k—110), 208, 218, 
DS Dili, PAL PAL BY, op hay 35 ly 

Al-‘Awga (c—d6), 33, 266 

Al-‘Awgijje (e3), 95, 96 

Awlad ‘Emran, 235 

Awlad Selim, 235 

Al-Awlag, 314 

Al-“Awnid, 136, 187, 257, 281, 322, 323 

“Awseg (Lycium arabicum, Schw.; a dense 
thorny shrub with sweet reddish berries), 
228 

Al-Awzam (g7), 150 

Al-‘Azam, Ab- (b4) 

Al-‘Azam, Umm (c3), 50, 59, 60 

-Azaza (ib); 735.183 

“Azbe (h4), 123 

“Azejne, R. abu (i5—6), 137, 181 

Al-‘AZer (g9) 

Azlad, 134 

Azlam, 134, 324 

Al-Azlam, 324, 326 

Al-Aznam, Kal‘at, 325 

Al-Aznam, W. (k6), 132, 134, 137, 323 

Al-Azrak (NA i5), 15, 37, 49, 314 

“Azza, place,73; beloved of the poet Kutejjer,94 

“Azzam, 96 

‘Azzazme, 286 





Ba‘al, 245 
Baal-Gad, 255 


Babylon, 248, 252, 261%, 275, 282, 293 
Babylonia, 5, 248, 251, 261, 311 

Babylonian kings, 275 

Baclanaza, 290, 310 

Bada’ (18), 132, 184—137, 211, 256—258, 280, 


281, 290, 313, 322 


Bada’ Ja‘ktb, 135, 257 

Badais, 135, 290, 3138 

Badana, 288, 290 

Badanatha, 290, 310 

Badeos, 135, 290 

Ba‘étradn or ‘abejtran (Ariemisia judaica, L.; 


a kind of wormwood), 35,68, 201 


“Baggage of Batra,’’ 180 
Al-Bahara (k5), 132, 326 
Al-Bahit (i6), 172, 192 
Bahraseols 

Al-Bahrejn, 306 

Al-Bahtijje (d5), 41 

Bajer (NA j6—7), 25 

Bajjaz (c5), 43 

Baker (d3), 67 

Al-Bakkar (h7), 161, 172 
Al-Bakra (e3) 
Al-Bakra, Darb (h7), 219, 221 
Bakir (j10), 219, 223 

Balaht (16), 132 

Al-Balas (g4), 149 

Balata (110), 212, 217 

Baldah, 329 

Balkejn, 218 

Banizomaneis, 292, 304 
Bant‘, 328 

Al-Baradijje, 53 

Al-Bared (g5), 149 

Al-Bared, Ab- (i—j5), 135, 137 
Bargas eben Fajez, 36 
Barkan (i3), 124, 303 

Barley, 62, 168, 203 

Al-Barra (d4), 45, 47, 68, 69 
Barsimani, 292 

Basalt, 199 

Al-Basiri, S. (i7), 197 
Al-Basra, 279 

Al-Basta, 264, 271 
Al-Batanijje, 328 

Bath as-Sikara (h5), 151, 153 
Batmizomaneis, 292, 302, 304 
Batmizomani, 303 

Batn al-“Akaba (c5), 41 

Batn al-Kibrit, 324 

Batn Rdl (c5), 38, 41 
Al-Batra (c4), 44, 45, 47, 48; (i5—6), 180; 318 
Al-Batra, Bijar, 45, 46 
Al-Baza (112), 301 

Al-Bdejje, (i4—5), 133, 185 
Al-Bdejje, Nakb (i5), 73, 183, 144 
Al-Bdal, 69 

Bdtin, 290 

Beasts of prey, 175 

Al-Bed‘ (g3), 72, 92, 99, 101, 102, 108, 113, 117, 


125, 130, 139, 257, 258, 269, 278, 280, 282, 290, 
293, 318, 316, 321—323, 325, 326; settlements 
rho WAV Torre, any 


Al-Bed‘, ‘Ajn (j7), 134 
Al-Béda, 58 


INDEX 


Al-Beda‘in, 102, 107 

Al-Bedaje‘, 301 

Al-Bedarijje, Harm (j6), 184, 136 

Beden, 290 

Al-Bedi® (k5), 182; (k7), 134; 

Al-Bedi‘, K. (i7), 197, 317; graves, 198 

Al-Bedi‘a, 317 

Bedouins, 157, 228, 307; grave of a murdered 
Bedouin, 91; robbery by, 11, 231; young 
Bedouin guide, 139 

Beersheba, 255, 261, 266, 297 

Beirut, 1, 48 

Bejdwat (24), 149 

Bejtaran, 320 

Bejt Zummara’, 71, 73 

Al-Bekri, 613171, 72, 94; 125,) 1383; 184,136, 214, 
220, 229, 230, 247, 280, 300, 316, 3385 

Al-Bekri al Misri, Samsaddin, 324, 335 

Al-Beladori, 114, 318, 335 

Belal (h5), 156 

Beli (16—10), 71, 72, 128, 134, 136, 170, 179, 181, 
199, 206, 208, 214, 216, 218, 221, 236; attack 
by, 210; clans and territory, 211; Sammar 
and, 217 

Al-Belka’, 37, 49, 61, 208, 217, 256, 295 

Benzer (e4) 

Al-Bér (h5), 154, 155, 156 

Bered, 265, 266 

Berk ad-Dide (NA 16), 32 

Berk al-Mhassab (h3), 1238, 124 

Berk ar-Rezaje (e—d5), 33 

Berk at-Twéref (f5—e6), 43 

Berka’-d-Dimez (g6), 154, 159, 160 

Berka ‘Id (e4d—5), 48; (h5—6), 157, 158, 176 

Berka-s-Smejhan (h6—7), 172, 174 

Bétingan (Solanum melongena; eggplant), 
320 

Al-Béz (k9), 212 

Al-Béza (a5), 11; (b8—4), 58; (b4); (ce3—4), 65; 
(h9), 202, 226; (34), 132, 186; (78), 208. See 
also Mojet al-Béza 

Al-Bezaj‘e, 4 

Al-Bezi* (k8), 172, 125, 206 

Al-Bezwa (g7), 150, 329, 331 

Bhejran (h5), 156 

Bible, xii 

Biblical names, xii 

Bidse2ol 

Bijar, plural of bir. See proper name 

Bijar, 43 

Al-Bijara, 50 

Bilbejs, 290 

Bildad the Shuhite, 249, 251, 293 

Binoculars, 27 

Bir, See proper name 

Bird, 314 

Al-Bird, 225 

Al-Birde (d4), 41, 68 

Al-Birg& (g3), 118, 120 

Birk Sorar (d5—6) 

Birka Sarora’ (£7), 160, 233, 317, 330 

Birka, Umm (j8), 204 

Al-Birke, 232 

Birke Ziza, 328 

Birket al-Mu‘azzame, 224, 230, 329, 330 

BIZE(Lo)satosecpL 


47 


Bjérat Dabbarat (j8), 206 

Blau, O:, 318, 336 

Al-Bli, MSaS (k9), 214 

Blood, drinking enemy’s, 7 

Blood money, 53 

Bnejzer (e4), 43 

Bosra’, 15, 316, 328 

Bosra in Edom, 249 

Bostra, 60 

Botta and Flandin, 288, 290, 336 

Boulders, 80; childless wife and, 81; climbing, 
98; gold dust in, 72; maiden’s choice as 
husband, 227; petrified pigs, 227 

Brandy, 62 

Al-Brejg, 89, 90 

Al-Brejkat, 235 

Al-Brejt (h6), 172, 174 

Al-Brejtem (g2—38), 1138 

Brék al-Mhamli (h8—9), 229, 231 

Bremond, Gabrielle, 325, 336 

Bridge, railway, 283 

As-Bsajjet (h4), 123 

Al-Bsejra, 13 

Btajjehat (c3), 45, 47, 66 

Al-Btane (e3), 75 

Al-Budaj‘*, 117, 125 

Al-Buhra, 322 

Burajrig (j6), 136 

Burial places, 26, 109, 144, 233; grave near 
Zhejlil, 126; graves near al-Bedi‘, 197, 198, 
199; sepulchers at Madian, 113, 114, 115, 116 

Burka, ‘Ajn (b4), 58, 54 

Burka Krajkre (i8—4), 132, 135 

Burka Na‘mi, 90 

Burka Sader, 228 

Burka Sdéra, 228 

Burka, Umm (e8), 76, 96 

Al-Burma (a5), 11 

Burton, Sir Richard F., xi 

Butum, Umm (h6), 177 

Buz wol7 ecole eco4 

Buzaha, 228 

Bwara (f3), 97 

Al-Bwéb (i11) 

Al-Bwejb (NA m5—6), 32 

Bwejb al-Hawi (d7), 33 

Bwézre (k11), 221 

Bythemani, 302—305 

Byzantine influence, 259 

Byzantines, 247, 259 


Al-Gabd (c6), 16, 34, 35 

Al-Gabd, MS&as (c6), 33, 34 

Caetani, Leone, 315, 336 

Caff marjam (Anastatica hierochuntina, L.; 
Rose of Jericho), 35. See also Knéfde 

Calligonum comosum, L. See Arta 

Camel riders, 15, 97, 131, 159; capture of an 
unknown rider, 12 

Camels, 6; backs lacerated, 190; buying and 
branding, 28; climate unfavorable to, 141; 
dates as food, 1388; difficult going, 145; 
exchanging for grain, 156; feet lacerated, 
169, 219, 221; guarding, 44; hiding, 201; 
killing for food, 18; hocks lacerated, 191; 
lameness, 194; lost camel returns, 219; night 


048 


travel, 11; overfattening, 28; pasturage, 
10, 16, 66, 121; payment for, 27; railway 
track and, 11; Sdaleh’s camel, 220; sole 
covered with skin, 195; stealing, 18, 98, 99, 
117; steep places for, 190, 192, 193; tethered, 
101, 125; transporting by rail, 238; water- 
ing, 39, 88, 149, 181, 182; weariness, 103, 
218, 216, 221, 233; white she-camels, 37 

Canaanites, 271 

Canchlei, 310 

Cariati, 310 

Cariatth, 310 

Cariman, 43 

Carvings, 155; 1765) 177 

Casius, 310 

Casr, Umm (j4—5), 135 

Cassia. See Senne 

Catabani, 310 

Catabanian Arabs, 310 

Caves, 53, 56, 70, 232; of theservants of Moses, 
214; undecorated, 12 

Cedrei, 310 

Centaurea arabica, Vel. See Mrar 

Centaurea Musili, Vel. See Mrar 

Chaldaeans, 248 

Charcoal, 126, 160 

Chariattaei, 310 

Cholera, 84 

Christian Arabs, 306 

Christians, 318 

Chronicles, Books of, 244, 245, 2538, 262, 273—276 

Cireassian, 94 

Circle of stones, 176 

Circles marked on stone elevation, 112 

City of Palms, 260 

Classical writers, on frontiers, 258; on the 
Northern Hegaz, 302, 309 

Al-Clébe (j6), 322 

Clothing, 126 

Coast and islands of the Northern Hegaz, 302 

Coffee, 17, 25, 44, 67, 79, 209 

Colors, 153 

Constans, Emperor, 64 

Constantine, Emperor, 64 

Constantinople, 1, 14, 26, 39, 70, 78, 84, 117, 
ILOE, SHAD), Al, BY, BRD. SITE 

Cows, 141 

Crkas, 94 

Crusaders, 273 

Cultivation, 85; possibilities, 130 

Culverts, railway, 224, 226, 227, 228 

Curiosity, 54, 162 

Czech Academy, xi 


Dare2o2 

Da‘a, 328 

Da‘a‘ (Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum, L.; a 
low bushy and fleshy annual with yellow- 
ish flowers. See Semh), 35 

Daba’, 136 

Dabba (j8), 205 

Dabba, 135, 136, 257 

Ad-Dabbe (b4), 48, 219 

Dabbet as-Swér, 123 

Ad-Dabel, M8as (£8) 

Ad-Dabr (e2), 79, 95 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Dacharenoi, 48 

Dad, 292 

Ad-Da‘és (i8), 202 

Dafdaf (h4), 123,-182, 149 

Ad-Da‘sanijje (a5), 11; (£3), 97 

Ad-Dahab, Ab- (i7), 201 

Ad-Dahahir (i7—8), 197, 233 

Dahal (i—j6), 134 

Ad-Dahan (b4) 

Ad-Dahhalin, 235 

Daidan, 296 

Dajdan, 217, 218, 243, 247, 274, 288, 290, 2983—295, 
308 

Ad-Dajdan, 217, 218, 295 

Ad-D4al (k10), 212 

Da‘lik. See Mti 

Ad-Dama, W. (k5—6), 6, 72, 132—134, 136, 137, 
Net?, PAE Bil 

DAMASCUS Helse Ope MELO ion Oe oem OEE eos 
36, 87, 48, 49, 55, 60, 61, 84, 161, 163, 165—167, 
ital, Tek, Pakey BR, Bayh, Walsh, Watoh Bats Wiley, Waly. 
2528 204,45 202,10204, 210. 28d, i2S4e oo leo Us 
319—321, 326—328, 330, 331; Pilgrim Route 
from, 326 ; 

Dams, 80 

Danabnab (Reseda alba, L.; Reseda arabica, 
Vel.; Oligomeris subulata, Delil.; a reseda- 
like plant), 68 

Damma, 328 

Dana, 48 

Ad-Dar, 87 

Dar al-Hagar, 220 

Dar al-Hagg, 43 

Dar al-Hamra?’ (j11), 211, 213, 219—222, 301, 330 

Dar al-Hmar, 325 

Dar al-Radir, 232 

Dar Kajitbaj, 324 

Ad-Dara (i5), 183; (j7—8), 201, 203 

Ad-Darabig (f4—5), 48, 150 

Darag, Abu (g5—6), 150 

Darag, Ammu (g4—5), 149 

Ad-Darak, Rigm (d2), 89 

DarawsSe, 7 

Darb. See proper name 

Ad-Darejn (e—f6), 43 

Da‘san al Zel*, 169, 170, 172, 179, 181, 187, 235 

Da‘san eben Hems, 7 

Da‘san eben Rbejje‘, 178, 179 

Dat al-Hagsg, 43, 160 

Dat al-Hags. (e6), 33, 43, 328, 329, 331 

Dat al-Hetmi, 318 

Dat al-Manar, 38 

Dat al-Manazel, 327, 328 

Dat as-Salasel, 134 

Dat az-Zerrab, 318 

Dat Hag, 43 

Dat Hass, 329 

Date palms, 438, 85, 87, 127, 189, 141 

Dates, camels and, 138 

Ad-Da‘as (i8), 202 

Ad-Da‘tk (b4), 51 

David, 261, 262, 276, 277 

Ad-Dawawi (b4—5), 38, 52 

Ad-Dbaklijje, 99 

Ad-Dbawijjin, 235 

Dbejban (d5), 41 


INDEX 


Ad-Dbejbi (g3), 103, 117, 121 

Dbejdeb Selit (e6), 33 

Dbejjeb, 190 

Ad-Dbejjeb (i4), 133 

Dbejjeb al-MSa’ (i10), 226 

Dbejsuwat (h6), 176, 177 

Dbir, 79 

Dead Sea, 32, 64, 72, 156, 204, 248, 244, 248, 
251—255, 257, 259—263,' 265, 271, 273; 275, 
277, 282, 283, 285, 289, 298, 302, 309, 310, 317 

Debbar (i5), 185, 179, 191 

Ad-Debbe (e2—3), 91 

Deborah, 255, 298 

Dedan 217, 218, 249—251, 274, 282, 287, 288, 
293—296, 299 

Defiles, 232 

Dejdan, 217 

Dejjer (i6), 172, 192 

Ad-Dejr (d2), 84, 87; (oasis), 297 

Dejtan (i6), 189 

Dél, Abu (i4), 133 

Delara (b3—4), 55 

Delitzsch, Friedrich, 289, 336 

Dellem (i6), 172, 192 

Ad-Delw (i8), 202 

Ad-Dén (f2) 

Ad-Dén, Ab- (f2), 96, 101, 102 

Dera‘ umm Swade (¢4), 47 

Der‘at, 284, 327, 328 

Ad-Dére® (i7), 199 

Ad-Derre (j4), 132 

Derw as-Saki (c4), 49 

Derw as-Sulba (c4), 49, 52 

Derwa’ (k9), 214 

Deuteronomy, Book of, 254, 255, 260, 263-265, 
270—272, 296—298 

Ad-Dhal (e5—6), 43 

Ad-Dhéhin (16), 132 

Dhorme, F. P., 290, 336 

Di al-Gifa, 318 

Di Tin (i8), 202 

Dia, 305 

Ad-Difla (j7) 1338, 203 

Dihja ibn Halifa, 204 

Dijab, Ammu, 52 

Ad-Dijabe, 235 

Ad-Dijabin, 124, 129 

Ad-Dijar (j7), 134 

Dijje, Abu (i4), 132 

Ad-Dimez, Kulban (g6—7), 160, 221 

Dimne (f4, £5), 43, 328 

Dims, Abu (b5), 11 

Dims al-“Okbijje, 80 

Dining on camel flesh, 19 

Diodorus Siculus, 292, 303, 304, 309, 336 

Dine (LOimose 

Ad-Dir‘ (i10), 222, 224 

Dis, 329 

Disan, 248 

Ad-Dise (d4—5), 39, 329 

Dizziness, 98 

Djejb (h4), 151; (j6) 

Dkét (h4), 133, 144 

Ad-Dmanijje, 7 

Dnéb (c3), 50, 62 

Dolmens, 16, 31 


D49 


Domada, 310 

Domata, 310, 311 

Domatha, 310 

Ad-Drale (h5), 150 

Drejm (h4), 138, 143 

Drejra, Ammu (e3), 75 

Ad-Dréka (h8), 202 

Dress, 126, 127 

Drought, 100, 122, 173 

Du al-Gife, 26 

Du Dafir, 160 

Du-l-Marwa, 279 

Ad-Dubba (h4), 135, 141—143 

Dubjan, 90 

Ad-Did, Ab-, 50 

Dad, Ammu-d- (i4), 133, 137 

Dugana, 313 

Ad-Dubhan (16), 132, 326 

Duhkan, 313 

Dim palms (see the high palms in Figs. 57 
ANG0S) 7 94s LOmel20 ep Lel. 1235) 141280 

Dima, 311 

Damat al-Gandal (or Damat al-Gandalijje) 
CNAGVIT) osc OOO io OU LOU OUSsmO Ls 
319 

Dura’ (kind of millet), 126 

DurdaSs (e7), 32, 33 

Dusara, 48 

Dusare, 48 

Disén (b4) 

Ad-Dwejme (i5—6), 132, 184 

Dwejme, Abu (g2), 103 

Ad-Dwejmez (i6), 172, 190 


Eagle sent by Allah, 215 

Eb‘ejd, Nakb (j8), 205 

Al-‘Edejb (112) 

Al-Edére® (h10—11), 229 

Edom, 44, 217, 244, 245, 248—258, 255, 264, 265, 
271, 272, 274—277, 283, 287, 290, 293, 294, 
296—298; king of, 264 

Hdomitescoo col mallee (sO) 

Edra‘at, 328 

‘Efa’, 287, 289, 290, 292, 293 

“Efal, 325, 326 

Ala Htale(ho)selLOom lose 7 lo0,20o.o le 

Al-‘Efar, 108, 108, 117, 293, 303 

‘Efer, 287, 293 

Al-‘Efrija (h3—4), 139 

Ega’ (NA q—r13—14), 257 

Al-‘Egane (b3), 55; (g2) 

Eglon, 260 

Egra, 299, 300, 313 

Dkeeigowy ty ali, AR, CRE AO Ve Ee Wl, Do), Cre 
OO 1 Ole OS ald eee 2oemel oO lod——loigmec ia 
244—246, 251, 254, 256, 260, 261, 265—269, 
274, 276, 277, 279—281, 283, 285—288, 290, 
PAM. CUBS Cl, BMS Bs, Str, Aon sall, alas sale: 
321, 322, 324, 325; Exodus from, 267 

Egyptians, 130 

Ehzéri (f2) 

Al-Ehzéri, S. (£2), 95, 96 

‘Ejal “Abdallah, 4 

‘Ejal al-Hasan, 4 

‘Ejal Hajjane, 4 

‘Bjal Mar‘i, 4 


350) 


"jane (j5), 115, 132 

Al-‘Ejéne (f6), 43 

‘Ejert al-Kabs, 99 

Al-‘Ejsawi (c7), 33 

Ekdad, S. (g3), 97, 105 

Al-‘Ekejl (£3), 102 

Al-‘Ekejrbe (NA 12), 55 

Al-Ekére‘, 330 

Ektan (f3), 96 

Al-‘Ela’ (m12), 26, 161, 217, 218, 2438, 249, 258, 
259, 282, 287, 288, 290, 293—295, 301, 308, 
320, 326—330 

Elath, 5, 244, 245, 252, 254, 259, 261, 262, 264, 
268, 272, 274—277, 287, 290, 292, 295—297 

Hida‘a, 287, 293 

Elihu the Buzite, 249, 251 

Elijah, 297 

Elim, 268—270, 297, 298 

Eliphaz the Temanite, 249—251, 260 

Al-‘Elli (e3), 76, 317 

El6th, 268 

El Paran, 252, 259, 262, 268, 268, 275, 277, 
287, 297 

‘Elw al-Jitama (d—e3), 75 

“Elw ar-Rwa’ (h4), 149 

‘Elw as-Sirr (£3), 79, 95—97 

‘Emart al-“Agiaz (f5), 43 

Al-Embate (j7), 201 

Al-‘Emdén, ‘Ajn (j7), 136 

Al-‘Emédijje (d8), 76 

Al-‘Emejjed (c4), 47 

Al-‘Emejk (e2), 94; (£3), 97, 101 

Al-Emejrer (e3), 76 

Al-‘Emérat, 101, 129 

“Emmeér (d5), 41 

Emtan (g3), 97, 106 

“Emtd (c4), 47, 65 

Al-‘Emiid (k5) 

‘Emud, ‘Ajn (j5—6), 136 

‘En MiSpat. See Mi§spat, ‘Ein 

Al-‘Enab (NA 15), 32 

Al-‘Enabijje (e2), 94 

Enan, 301 

‘Enaz (NA 05), 32 

Al-‘Enaz (k10), 208, 215 

“Enejk (e4), 438 

Al-‘Enejme (g—h4), 123, 132 

Enemy’s blood, drinking, 7 

Engadi, 253, 277 

England, 130 

English, 130 

Enké* (k9), 211 

EnSejfe (k9), 211 

Entés (h3), 123 

Al-‘Erak (d7), 32; 317 

Erdéht ‘Aneze (h9), 202, 226 

Al-SErgan, 235 

‘Erka (¢c4), 47 

Erosion, 156, 317 

Erzén (k8), 206 

Esau, 249, 252, 260, 264, 272 

Al-Esawed (e3), 76, 90 

Esbonitae, 310 

Esdeh (g2), 103 

Al-Eséhed (111), 220 

Al-‘Esejfat, 235 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Al-‘Esejle (g—h3), 117 

“EsjOngeber, 244, 254, 264, 268, 272 

Al-°E88 (k8), 132, 206; (j10), 222, 223 

Al-‘E38, S. (h2) 

“E88, Umm (d3); (£3), 97 

Al-ESize. See Zaltat al-ESze 

‘Etal, 201 

Etel (species of tamarisk; a tree with needle- 
shaped leaves; see Fig. 62), 161, 281, 323 

Al-Etel (h7), 196, 233, 331 

Al-Etel, Wadi (h8) 

Al-Etéli (h8), 160, 232 

Al-Etle (k7), 1384 

Etle, Umm (d5), 41 

Etleb (111—12), 220 

Etmdadn or tmdm (Pennisetum dichotomum, 
Forsk.; a high grass), 89, 95, 179, 193 

Euphrates, 284 

Europe, 35 

Eusebius of Caesarea, 250, 251, 255, 258, 279, 
296, 336 

Exodus. See Israelites 

Exodus, Book of, 267—269, 285, 286, 296—298 

Extortion from travelers, 164, 166, 170 

Eyes, inflamed, 70, 76, 77, 78, 88, 102, 143 

Ezekiel, Book of, 217, 275, 289, 294 

Ezra‘, 328 


Fagonia glutinosa, Del. See Wrdka 
Fagonia mollis, Del. See Wraka 
Fahad, 175 

Al-Faham, Harm (i5), 178, 188, 184 
Al-Fahamin, 129 

Al-Fahham (d3) 

Al-Fajde (h9), 226 

Al-Falak, Darb (j4—5), 136, 326 
Al-Falhatejn, 314 

Al-Fanatse, 4 

Al-Farahin 102, 117 

Faran, 49, 281 

Al-Farra‘a (k8), 206, 208 
Farrag ar-Rwékbi, 93, 94 
Al-Farragin, 69 

Al-Farra‘i (g2), 115 

Farrase (j5), 184; (15) 

Fars Dmeza (k9—10), 212 

Farst ‘Edd (8), 102 

Fartak, Ras (hl), 102, 117 
Far‘tin (f4), 48, 149 

Al-Farwa (e—f3), 96 

Farwa ibn ‘Amr, 247 
Al-Farwal (NA q7), 222 
Al-Fasasijjat (NA 15), 32 
Faso‘a, Kala‘a (c5), 15, 38, 39—41, 329 
Fawajde, 102, 114 

Fawara (b4), 49 

Al-Fawazle, 211 

Fawzan as-Sabek, 20, 22—24, 27 
Fazlallah, 94 

Fegs al-Kalh (e3), 95 

Fejd (NA r15), 257 

Fejhan (g3), 97, 102, 103 

Fénan, 250, 252 

Ferdan (j9), 205, 216 

Ferdat al-AtraS (g6), 160 
Al-Ferri (i7), 197 





INDEX Dol 


Al-Fers (g3), 103 

Ferula sinaica, Boiss. See Kalh 
Fever, 77, 78, 88, 102, 121 
Fezara, Beni, 160, 218, 315, 316 
Al-Fezir, 26, 27 

Al-Fgejma (j7), 1386 
Al-Fhejl (j8), 202 
Al-Fhejtat (g2), 115 

Fig trees, 191 

Fighting, 36, 73 

Fihat at-Tlejha (NA m6), 32 
Fihat Hawmal (NA n5), 382, 
Al-Filk (¢3), 66 

Firearms, 27 

Fires, 148 

Flavius Josephus, 278, 296, 338 
Flints, 180 

Flood, water from the, 316 
Flour, 126, 203 

Fortresses, 118, 125 

Fothea, 310 

Al-Fras (15), 133 

Al-Fré‘at, 208 

Al-Frejs (i4), 132 

Frejs ‘Alija (k10), 215, 221 
Frejst al-“Ekejl. See Al-‘Ekejl 
Fréwel (i—j2) 

Frontiers, 255 

Fruits, 85, 218 

Frat, Ammu (f4—5), 48; (f4) 
Al-Frat, Umm (i5), 135 

Fraz, Ammu (h5—6), 157, 158, 176 
Al-Fsér (i4), 132 

Fuel, 160 

Al-Ftha (h6), 157, 158 
Al-Fukara’, 26, 175, 221—223, 225 
Al-Ftar (k10), 215 

Al-Fur‘, 279 

Al-Furgan, 235 

Al-Fursat, 2385 

Fwatre (b4) 

Al-Fwazle, See Tel‘et al-Fwazle 
Al-Fwéle (b4), 52 

Al-Fwéri, 51 

Fzér al-Razi (e7), 33 

Al-Fzal, 79 


G. Abbreviation for Gebel. See proper name. 

Gaddan, Beni, 309 

Gadeb (g3), Umm, 103 

Gafa(r), 289 

Al-Gafar (a6), 9—11, 14, 16, 25, 29, 32, 48, 
48, 160 

Al-Gafar, Kulban (a6), 15, 38 

Al-Gafr, 160 

Gai’, 245—247, 253 

Gaia, 246 

Gaisa, 313 

Gajfa(r), 289 

Gajle (110), 212 

Gajs Iram, 273 

Gal al-Hawsa’ (NA m6), 32 

Al-Galad, 236 

Galad, Umm (h6), 157 

Gamltid (j10), 216 

Gamliid Gidel (19), 212 


Al-Ganah (k12), 220 

Garagra (h4), 133 

Gardens, 56, 141; al-“Akaba, 88, 85; Tebtk, 
161, 168 

Garrisons, 126, 130 

Gasar, Umm (d4), 68 

Gaser, Umm (e3), 96 

Al-Gawiti—ko)2ls—217 

Al-Gawahre, 129 

Al-Gawha (k5), 132 

Al-Gawla (k8), 90, 205, 206 

Gaza, 5, 58, 244, 245, 247, 254, 260, 261, 266, 
270, 274, 280, 284, 290, 291, 305, 321 

Al-Gazl, 211 

Al-Gbejl. See Mojet al-Ghejl 

Al-Gbél, 268 

Gdejdilat (i7), 198, 232 

Al-Gdejjed, M8a8 (i5), 137, 181, 183; (b4), 51 

Gdejl, Ammu (i4), 135 

Gea, 246, 253 

Al-Geba’ (j7), 201 

Geba’, Umm (g5), 149 

Gebal, 250 

Al-Gebala (19), 136, 212 

Gebalene, 252 

Al-Geba (c6), 33 

Gebt‘®, M8a8, 36 

Gebw (£4) 

Gebw ‘Ajr (j10), 218, 219 

Gebw al-Hamir, 43 

Geda‘an, Twejjel (g3), 117 

Gedid (e3) 

Gedid, Bir (e3), 95 

Gedirt as-Sefi (h—i6), 172, 180 

Gedor, 245—247 

Gedii® (e2), 95 

Gehaman, S. (f2), 96, 101 

Al-Gehdanijje (b6), 16 

Gejhile, Umm (i4), 132 

Gejs, Ammu-l- (k8), 206, 213 

Al-Geleb (i8), 202 

al-Geles (g4, h5, i6—7, j—k8, k9), 6, 73, 131, 
180, 236 

Al-Gemagem (b5), 10, 11 

Al-Gem4n, 52 

Al-Gemez (h5), 156 

Gemim, Umm (j8), 204 

Al-Genaf (f3—4) 

Genajen al-K4azi (h9), 228, 326, 327, 330 

Gendarmes, 237; ordered to search for the 
author, 230; Tebtk, 162; wounded gendarme, 
238, 239 

Genesis, Book of, 217, 248, 251, 252, 259, 260, 
262, 265, 268, 275, 278, 282, 283, 285, 287—289, 
291—294, 296 

Gennijje (£2), 96 

Al-Gentid (j10), 220, 222 

Gerad (Gymnocarpon fruticosum, Pers.; a 
subshrub with white branches, narrow leav- 
es, and small balls of flowers), 68 

Al-Gerad, Umm (j10), 219 

Al-Gerafin, 129 

Gerar, 245, 246, 266 

Al-Gerar, Umm, 266 

Al-Gerdam, Ab- (a5), 9 

Al-Gerdawn, W. (a4—5) 


302 


Gerfan, Umm (111—12), 220 

Gerid, Umm (h6), 172 

Gerrha, 38 

Gerrhaeans, 302, 304 

Al-Gert@ma (h7), 161, 172, 221, 321 

Gerth eben Fajez, 36 

Al-Gezaj (15) 

Ghajjer (j7), 201 

Ghassanian tribe, 228, 259 

Al-Ghejjer (b4), 55 

Ghosts, 176 

Al-Gha8, 235 

Al-Gi, 246, 247, 253 

Gi'aly. 273 

Gibbe (j4), 132, 312 

Al-Gidde (i5), 133 

Gidde, Umm (f3), 97 

Al-Giden (k8), 208 

Gideon, 260, 284, 285 

Al-Gife (k9), 211 

Gifejn, Ammu, 26 

Gifts, 27, 30, 79, 162 

Gilead, 283 

Gilf al-Mnejsir (d4), 47 

Al-Gill (¢4), 47, 49 

Al-Gille, 94 

Al-Gimm (i4), 123, 135, 137 

Al-Gimmed (h5), 154, 156 

Al-Ginz, Radir (NA k3—4), 38 

Girfejn, Umm (NA m7), 26 

Girma, Umm (j5), 133 

Ai-Gitter 3 

Giza, 2 

Al-Gizel, W. (k9), 171, 201, 204—206, 208, 
210-213; 1217,. 236, 314,2517 

Glaser, Eduard, 290, 295 

Glejf as-Semen (i5), 180, 184 

Gmé‘anijjin, 175, 235 

Al-Gmejl (b8—4), 55 

Gnéb, Abu (j11), 220, 222 

Gnejb, Abu (i10), 224 

Goats, 45, 66, 141, 155, 190; lean goat, 109 

Gob‘a, 303 

Gold, buried, 124 

Gold dust, 72 

Al-Gowf (NA m11), 15, 38, 155, 175, 308, 319 

Al-GowSijje, S. (d2), 88 

Grain, 155—156; prices, 203 

Al-Graj‘e, 235 

Granite, 67, 122 

Grass plots, 114, 115 

Al-Grejs (h6—7), 172 

Grohmann, Adolf, 290, 295 

Al-Gaba (k1), 220, 221 

Al-Gubejlat, 308 

Al-Gudan,. 33, 71—73, 80, 94, 184, 201, 204, 
211. DIGS BAT) 248, 0268 2784 279 e799 77 

Gu‘ejb, Ammu (h7), 232 

Al-Guhajjer, 55 

Al-Guhfa, 211 

Al-Guhfe (NA m6), 32 

Guides, 70, 94, 97, 128, 189, 164, 179, 181, 210; 
guide with a squint, 118; ignorance, 50; 
lame man, 194, 202; pay, 29, 152, 213, 225; 
at ar-Rkejk, 195; young Bedouin guide, 139 

Gumejl, the poet, 135 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Al-Gunejne, 33, 326—328 

Gtr Ba‘al, 244, 245,273, 274 

Gurajman, 331 

Gurfejn, 323, 324 

Gurfejn, S. Umm (d2—3), 83 

Gurfejn, Umm (e2—3), 94, 95, 324—326 

Al-Gurfejn, Umm, 325 

Gwad al-‘Ani, 2, 30, 161, 163, 165, 166, 169—171, 
234—236, 238 

Al-Gwejbe, 55 

Gwejfle, 215 

Gwéred, 7 

Gymnocarpon fruticosum, Pers. See Gerad 





H. Abbreviation for Habra, Habari. See pro- 
per name. 

Habakkuk, Book of, 250, 278, 286 

Habari, plural of habra. See proper name 

Al-Habbini (h8—9), 231 

Al-Habra (i9), 226 

Al-Habt, 73 

Al-Hadab (b4), 55; (e2—3), 95; (e3) 

Hadab, Bir, 51 

Hadad, 276, 277, 287 f 

Al-Hadad (h5), 149, 150; (d4), 68; (g6), 160 

Al-Hadara (h7), 196; (i6—7), 192, 193 

Al-Hadr, 331 

Haegra, 300, 310, 311 

Al-Hafir (¢c4, d5), 41 

Al-Hafr, 160 

Hagar, 96, 265, 266 

Hagar, 43, 329 

Al-Hagar, 306 

Hagar al-Bint, 227 

Hagasan, 211 

Al-Hagg, Twejjel (c5), 38 

Al-Haggar (j4), 132 

Hagsi Halfa, 134, 218, 220, 224, 230, 248, 281, 
301, 320, 328, 324, 329, 336 

Al-Hagr, 257 

Hagra, 295, 299, 300, 305, 306 

Hagrat, 299 

Hagreni, 311 

Haila, 64 

Hainu, 306 

Hajappa, 288—293 

Hajbar, 259, 279, 294, 301 

Al-Hajdar, 230 

Hajdar Baba, 230 

Hajel (NA ql4), 28, 259, 294 

Hajel eben Fajez, 36 

Al-Hajjat, 52, 53 

Hajjij, 102 

Hajt, Umm, 89 

Al-Haka, S. (j10), 222—224 

Hakaf, 316 

Hakl (e2), 79, 88, 91—94, 101, 255, 313, 321—325 

Al-Hakl, 325 

Hala? umm ‘Awader (i9—10), 222 

Hala’ Bedr (k10—11), 215 

Hala’ Dahne, 88 

Hala’ Hmejjet (j10), 216 

Halahel (h6), 157 

Halak, 255, 263 

Al-Halal (d3), 77 

Hala’-l-‘Araf (110), 212, 215 


INDEX 


Hala’-l-Bedr (k9), 214, 216 

Al-Halal, S. (d2), 89, 90 

Halat ‘Ammar (e6), 33, 331 

Halawi (i6—7), 172, 193 

Al-Halde (e—d3) 

Haleb, 261 

Halfa (k9), 211 

Halfa, Abu (i8), 202 

Al-Halfa, S. (e5), 48 

Halil, the Kurd, 164, 165, 171, 172, 181, 185, 
187, 190, 192—194, 202, 209, 213, 216, 225, 
227—229, 232, 2338, 236 

Halil Fattal, 2 

Halkam, Abu (c4), 47, 65 

Al-Hallas (k8), 206 

Haloxylon articulatum, Cav. See Rimt 

Halafa, Abu (b5), 44 

Hama’ (NA bd), 328 

Al-Hama (i5), 1383 

Hamad, 55 

Al-Hamajde, 168, 321 

Al-Hamajse, 235 

Al-Hamam, Ab (a4—5), 11 

Al-Hamas (h9), 226, 228 

Hamét (wild fig), 191 

Hamata, Abu (111—12), 220; (k9), 213, 214; 
(b4==5) loose 144 

Hamata, Ammu (e3), 76 

Hamata, Umm, 80 

Al-Hambara (i6); (15), 188, 172, 180, 181 

Hamda, 215 

Al-Hamdani, 71, 211, 218, 279, 315, 336 

Hamed, a chief of the Beni ‘Atijje, 235 

Hamed eben Der‘, 174 

Al-Hamila (i9) 

Al-Hamir, Twejjel (£4) 

Al-Hamis (h9), 176, 224, 228, 229 

Hamites, 245—247 

Hammad, chief of the Samsan, 69, 70, 72—75 

Hammad, ruins (b3), 51, 55, 56, 270 

Al-Hammadin, 4 

Al-Hammam (b5), 3 

Al-Hammaza, 222 

Al-Hamra (g2), 113, 114, 117 

Hamra’-s-Se‘éd (f3) 

Hamra’-8-Swarbi (h6), 172, 174, 175 

Hamt at-Tjis (19), 182, 212 

Hamtd eben Farhan, 235 

Al-Hamtm (i4), 182, 135 

Al-Hamza (g2), 118 

Al-Hanaser (e5), 43 

Al-Handaki (k6), 134, 136, 137 

Hangutr, Umm (h6—7), 172, 174, 175 

Al-Hanifijje, 328 

Hanok, 287, 293 

Hanzal, Umm (i9), 226; (h9—10), 226 

Hanzira (i10), 227 

Al-Har, Ab- (e5), 43 

Harab ad-Dukkan, 53 

Harab al-Bhejra (b4), 56 

Harabt al-“Abid (e3—4), 49 

Harabt ammu Sanajeh, 53 

Al-Harad (c5), 41 

Al-Harada, 101 

Al-Harag (g2), 115 

Al-Harak, Ab- (d3), 80 


ee) 
ON 
ow) 


Al-Harakis, Sbn. (f3), 96 

Al-Haraze (h6), 176 

Harb (i4), 185, 179, 191 

Harb abu Tajeh, 7 

Harb eben ‘Atijje, 16, 27, 28, 30, 152, 161, 164, 
168—170, 172, 187, 190, 234, 235; sister of, 190 

Hareni, 310 

Al-Harete, 230 

Harga, Umm (i—j5), 1383 

Hargal or harmal (African rue), 68 

Harhira (c3), 62; (£2), 96; (h—i4), 133 

Al-Harik, (£5), 48 

Al-Harim, 221 

Haris (h4), 123 

Al-Harka, 190 

Harm. Sze proper name 

Harmal. See Hargal 

Al-Harr (j4), 1382 

Al-Harra, 155, 179 

Harra Lajla, 256, 314—316 

Harra Nuhejl, 317 

Harra Tebtk, 320 

Harrat al-‘Awérez (j9—10, k—1li0), 219 

Harrat an-Nar, 218 

Harrat ar-Ragla, 314, 315 

Harrat ar-Rha (h6, i7—8—9, j9), 156, 208, 215, 
Paltsy, AAI, i bye 

Hartn, Mount, 264, 272 

Al-Harts (g3), 113 

Al-Harzijje (£2) 

Al-Hasa’ (f2), 38; on Persian Gulf, 238, 49; 
northern boundary of Edom, 294 

Al-HaSa’ (e2—38), 94 

Al-HaSa’ (f2), 96 

Hasa, Umm (d8—4), 47; (£2), 96 

HaSab, Umm (f5), 43 

HaSaba, Abu (h5), 150, 151, 154 

HaSareb, Abu (k9—10), 216 

Hasas6n Tamar, 2538, 259, 275 

Hasat al-Kanis (NA g§8), 219 

Hasérot, 270 

al-HaSi (j5), 132 

Al-Hasif (k—19), 182 

Al-Hasim (k6—7), 1384, 1386 

Hasim, Umm (d4), 41; (h4), 183, 141; (g2—3), 
LLG), 226 

HasSm Limme. See Limme 

HasSm Marttm (k11), 220, 221 

HasSm Nkejb (h5), 150, 151 

Hasm Sana‘ (j10), 220, 222, 236 

Al-Hasnaweén (j9), 219, 222 

Al-Hasra (e5), 43 

Hassan ibn Tabet, 71, 72, 315, 336 

Al-Hataba (a5), 9 

Hatar, expedition for grain, 156 

Al-Hateb (i6), 184 

Al-Hatijje (d5), 41 

Al-Hatijje (h4—5), 133 

Al-Hatta (19—10), 212 

Hatti, 288, 290, 291 

Hauanae, 60 

Hauare, 60 

Hauarra, 65 

Al-Hawa (g—h3) 

Al-Hawa, S. MSa5 (g3), 117, 121 

Hawajez, Umm (i10), 226 


D4 


Al-Hawalde, 4 

Al-Hawani (j5—6), 1385 

Hawara (d3), 68, 76 

Al-Hawara (e3), 95 

Al-Hawatel (f5), 48 

Hawawit, Abu (i4), 133 

Hawda’, 26 

Al-Hawéga (09), 8 

Al-Hawi (e3), 72, 73, 96 

Al-Hawij (h6), 172 

Hawila, 261, 287 

Al-Hawla (b3), 55 

Hawmal (j9) 

Hawmal, Zel‘ (d7), 32, 216 

Hawr Geris (d3—4), 68, 71, 72, 74, 75 

Hawr Ramm (d4), 68 

Hawra’ (k8), 206; (g3), 97, 105, 108, 113, 178, 
120, 125, 278, 280, 281, 301 

Al-Hawra’, 136, 1387 

Hawran (NA g—h5—6), 15, 36, 37, 239, 284, 
287, 316 

Hawsa’, 25, 26 

Al-Hawsa, K (NA m6), 25, 26, 32, 38, 319 

Al-Hawsal (g6), 150 

Al-Hawwar (h—i9), 226, 229 

Hawwara, 59 

Al-Hawza (k10, 111), 215, 221 

Al-Haza (18), 136 

Al-Haz‘ali (d8—4), 72 

Al-Hazar, 60 

Al-Hazar (k9) 

Hazar Adar, 265 

Al-Hazar, ‘Ajn (i—Jj8) 

Al-Hazar, W., 201 

Hazb as-Saferin (c4), 47 

Hazbat ar-Ratama (c4), 47, 65 

al-Hazm (f6), 37, 150, 329, 331 

Hazm al-Cabd (NA m4), 31 

Al-Hazma (j9), 205 

Al-Hazra, 270 

Al-Hazra (j10), 219; (h8), 202 

Al-Hazza (g6—7) 150, 160 

Hbejle, Abu (d—e3), 76 

Hbejrat (i5—6), 184 

Al-Hbejrat (g—h2), 117 

Al-Hbejt (£3), 78, 96, 100 

Al-Hdejb, Nakb (c4), 11, 39, 42, 43 

Al-Hdéra (i6—7) 

Heat, 80, 88, 141, 145, 156, 190, 221 

Hebra’, 125 

Hebran (j8), 204, 205 

Hebrew traders, 307, 308 

Hebrews, 307, 308 

Hebron, 270 

Hedreg, S. (NA k8), 13, 36 

Al-Hegaz, 1, 2, 20, 38, 48, 44, 48, 90, 100, 117, 
128, 132, 134, 136, 187, 162, 166, 169, 204, 217, 
252, 255—259, 279, 280, 290, 295, 300, 309, 311, 
312, 319—321; northern frontier, 255. See 
also Northern Hegaz 
Hegazijje 

Al-Hegazijje, Ma‘an, 4 

Al-Hegera (NA m14—21), 307 

Al-Hegfe (¢3), 50, 64, 66 

Al-Hegijje, 97 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Al-Hegijje, Nakb (f3—4), 99, 100, 149 

Al-Hegr (111), 48, 102, 128, 134, 209, 211, 213, 
218, 220—222, 228, 256—258, 280, 291, 292, 295, 
299—301, 306, 311, 313, 314, 317—3819, 327, 
829, 330 

Hegra, 258, 300, 311 

Al-Hejmri (g4), 123, 132, 149 

Al-Hejrab (h5), 156 

Hejran, Abu (d3) 

Hejstmi (15), 135 

Hekint ar-Rimt (d2), 90 

Helal, Beni, 157, 206 

Al-Helalat, 4 

Hellet al-Batra, 180 

Al-Helwa (b38—4), 56—58 

Al-Hemara (g3), 103, 107 

Hemara, Habra (c7) 

Al-Hemara, Harm (c7), 32 

Al-Hemmaza (jl11), 220 

Hemnatae, 310 

Al-Henw (i6), 184, 189 

Heraclius, 314 

Heres, Ascent of, 284, 285 

Al-Herim (ec—d4), 45, 47 

Heroodpolis, Gulf of, 302, 303—305 

Heroopolitiec Gulf, 305 

Al-Hesani (d2) 

Al-Hesani, S. (d2), 90 

Hesban, 310 

Al-Heseb (f4), 149 

Heshbon, 283 

Al-Hesim, 70 

HesSim, Umm (h—i4), 183, 144 

Hesma’ (c—d4, e—f—g5), 6, 33, 48, 49, 51, 56, 
61, 72, 90, 134, 185, 144, 149, 151, 152, 155—157, 
160; 175, 1775. 18051204, 206, 218; °235>, 264; 
272—274, 279, 282, 289, 311—313, 315—817, 319 

Al-HeSSe (d6), 33 

Al-Heswat, Se‘iban (¢5) 

Al-Héwat, 85, 286 

Hezekiah, king, 245, 246 

Al-Hganagém (NA k4), 32 

Al-Hégejl, S. (j6), 134 

Hibt at-Tematil (j11), 220, 222 

Hidr, 230 

Himan, 219 

Al-Hind, Bir (e4), 43 

Al-Hind, S. (e5), 43 

Hippos, 312 

Hirk (i8), 202 

Hirka, Abu (f5), 150 

Al-Hirke, S. (j4), 132 

Hirm ibn Demdem al-Murri, 11 

Hirmas, Bir eben (f6) 

Hisst at-Tawr (e6), 33 

Hittites, 291 

al-Hkaf (f—g2), 101 

Hkejl, 93 

Hlavka, Joseph, xi 

Hlej al-Hmédi, 172 

Al-Hlebat, 235 

Hlej al-Rbejje (k9—10), 216 

Hlej as-Semeh (i9), 222 

Hlej Zeben (e6), 43 

Al-Hlejfi (e3—4), 52 

Hlejfi, S. abu (g2), 103 


INDEX 


Hlejje, Abu, 220, 224 

Hlejjel eben Hirmas, 235 

Hlejlat abu Tarfa’ (j10), 29, 228 

al-Hlélit (e4), 48 

Hlewijjet an-Naka (111—12), 220 

Al-H16lat, 235 

Hluwwat (or Hlewwat) (j10), 218 

Al-Hmam (10), 219, 222 

Hmar as-Sawwan (NA 15), 382 

Al-Hmejda (i8), 202 

Al-Hmejdat, 168 

Al-Hmejdijje, 97 

Hmejjer (f8) 

Hmejjet (k9), 216 

Al-Hmejjete (j10), 222 

Al-Hmejmer (19) 

Al-Hmejra (d3), 77; (c¢3), 50, 66 

Hmejra-l-Krajker. See Hméra’l-Krajker 

Al-Hmejza, (c3), 47, 65; (e2), 79, 94, 98, 
324; (e3) 

Hmér ar-Rafi® (39) 

Al-Hméra (f3) 

Hméra’-l-Krajker (j4—5), 182, 324, 326 

Al-Hméza. See al-Hmejza 

Hmid. See A&-Sejh Hmtd 

Al-Hmidat, 235 

Al-Hnejfse (15), 179 

Hobab son of Ra‘uél, 269, 286 

Al-Holozani (d8), 88 

Holy woman, 99 

Al-Homejma (c3—4), 6, 37, 52, 54, 56, 58—62, 
th NBS, PAD, GBI, PAW 

Al-Homsi (g38), 117 

Honey, 187 

Al-Honsera (19), 212 

Hor, 264, 271, 272 

Hor275 

Hor al-Hamar (111), 220 

al-Horb (110), 212 

Horeb, 263, 267—270, 272, 286, 296—298 

Horites, 252, 259 

Horma, 255, 271 

Al-Horr (¢4) 

Hospitality, 108, 127, 137, 208; at the camp 
of ‘Awde abu Tajeh, 17; demanding the 
rights of, 209 

Al-Hozon (or al-Hozn) (d5), 41 

Al-Hrajbe (or al-Hrajba) (h38), 127, 122, 
124—129, 181, 217, 218, 312; approach to, 
122; commander and garrison, 126 

Al-Hrajbe (h3), 123, 268, 298 

Hrajmel (16), 132 

Al-Hramse, 235 

Al-HraSe (h4), 138, 141 

Al-Hrejbe (g3), 103 

Al-Hrejg (e3), 96 

Hrejm al-‘Asira (j6), 136 

Hrejman, Umm (h6), 172, 174, 313 

Al-Hrejmat (f5), 43 

Hrejmel (k9), 213 

al-Hrejta, Nakb (i5), 1388, 137, 181, 234 

Hrejtat ammu Rgim (i5), 133 

Al-Hrejz (k10), 215 

Hréra, Abu (h4), 133 

Al-Hrob (h8), 102, 117, 121, 263, 269, 297, 298 

Al-Hriaf, 211 


Al-Hrtt (f2—3), 95 
Al-Hsajd (e3), 96 
Al-Hsajme, 235 

Al-Hsan, R. (j9), 221, 222 
Al-Hsane (f38), 97, 99, 326 
Al-Hsani (¢4), 47, 65 
Al-Hsej, 8. (£2), 96 
Al-Hsejb (i4—5), 161, 168 
Hsejje, Abu (d5), 41; 55 
Hsejje, Abu, 72 

Hsejjet Stejje (e5), 43 
Hsejn, 124 

Hsejnan, Abu (b4), 10 
Al-Hsejra (h6), 172, 176 


Hsém Birk (h8), 229, 230, 2382, 233 


Al-Hsérme, 102 

Hsi ammu Sejfén (e4—5), 43 
Hsi, Ummu (e2), 91 

Hsij al-Benn, 99 

Al-Htan (h4), 133 

Al-Htan (k8—9), 211 
Htejmijje (e—f2), 95 
Hubejba, Beni, 115 

Haid, 218, 301 

Al-Hufejjere, 48 

Al-Hufhtf, 306 

Al-Htig (NA n&8), 37 
Al-Huktk (h6), 174 

Hulful, S. (h6), 172 
Al-Humajma, 55, 60, 61 
Al-Humran, 235 

Hunajd ibn ‘Us, 204, 313—315 
Al-Hunfa (NA p9—10, q10), 313 
Hunn, Beni, 228 

HuSejn, 33 

Husejn ibn Musammet, 72, 73 
Husham, 249 

HusSejn, 33 

Huts at ‘Ajntna, 124, 125 
Al-Huzara, 201, 229, 235 
Al-Hwamde, 235 

Al-Hwara (112), 220 

Hwejd, Nakb (j5), 185 
Hwejman (f4), 149 
Al-Hwejme (g4), 149, 150 
Hwejmel (j9), 216 
Al-Hwejmer (19), 212 
al-Hwét (i4), 135 

Hwétat (b4—5, c6—7, d7) 
Al-Hwétat (i10) 


355 


Hwétat at-Tihama (h38—4, i4d—5, j5—6, k6—7), 
6; 98; 101, 102; 117%, 124) 127129, 136,, 139; 
141, 144, 166, 170, 179, 182, 183, 185, 211, 289, 


323; clans, 129 
Hwétat eben Gad, 6, 69 


Hwétat eben Gazi, 6, 7, 8, 13—16, 18—22, 24, 
27, 28, 30, 36, 38, 45, 50, 51, 54, 66, 128, 234, 


235, 238 
Al-Hwéwira (e3), 95 
Al-Hwij (h5), 149 
Al-Hzejb (j—k8), 206 
Hzejb al-Biz (e3), 96 
Hzejb ar-Ruhbi (c4), 47, 65 
Hzejbt as-Smé‘e (c4), 49 
Hzér, Kulban (k9), 214 
Al-Hzérat, 69 


3506 


‘Ibadan, 39 

Ibadidi, 291—293 

Ibexes, 175 

Ibn ‘Abbas, 280 

Ibn al-Atir, 300, 336 

Ibn al-Fakih, 256, 257, 326, 337 

Ibn as-Sikkit, 133, 317 

Ibn Battita, 218, 301, 320, 328, 336 

Ibn Habib, 211 

Ibn Hagar, 115, 337 

Ibn Haldtn, 48, 337 

Ibn Hawkal, 247, 256, 322, 337 

Ibn Hisam, 338, 134, 204, 229, 279, 300, 313, 318, 337 

Ibn Hordadbeh, 279, 321, 322, 327, 337 

Ibn Ishak, 26, 33, 134, 318, 314, 326, 337 

Ibn Manztr, 280, 337 

Ibn Misa al-Hazemi, Muhammad, 180, 256 

Ibn Roste, 279, 323, 327, 337 

Ibn Sa‘d ibn Mani‘ az-Zuhri, 134, 337 

Ibrahim al-Harbi, 256 

‘Id. See Berka ‘Id 

Iden al-hmar (Astragalus Cahiricus, DC.; 
a subshrub with white hairy branches and 
leaves and large yellow flowers), 38 

Idiba’il, 288, 291 

Idibi’il, 288, 291 

Al-Idrisi, 137, 256, 257, 280, 300, 319, 328, 337 

Idumea, 251 

‘Ijjé ha-‘Abarim, 272 

Illusion, 122 

Al-‘Imran (d—e3, f—g4, 23), 69, 70, 72, 74—80, 
93—95, 98, 101, 105, 121; clans, 79 

India, 307 

Infirmary, 234, 236, 237 

Inscriptions op, LO0s Si, LOO WiiGeo ll acl 6s 
Nabataean, 112; Nabataean and Greek at 
Rwafa, 185; Tamtd, 194, 195 

Iotabe, 306—308 

Trakyec6,4o.) Ol, e246.noLy 

Ibigtbeek, Cy, her Wy Pe Pays A BG PEI Bhi 
3815—317 

Irrigation, 4 

‘Is, 5, 252 

‘Isa Pasha, 218 

Isaac, 282 

Isaiah, Book of, 217, 275, 285, 289, 294 

Ishmael, 96, 250, 278, 296 

Ishmaelites, 283—285, 288, 291, 296 

Lene, SR, ave 

Islets, 124, 131 

Isma‘il Fadel Pasha, 1 

Isma‘in, 9, 30, 31, 44, 45, 50, 51, 54, 61, 62, 65, 
66, 72, 73, 88, 84, 94, 97, 99, 101, 105, 109, 
117, 146, 147, 152, 161, 168, 239; poetry, 157 

Israel, 254, 260, 267 

Israelites, 66, 244, 254, 255, 260, 264—272, 278, 
283—286, 297, 298 

Istabel ‘Antar, 325 

Al-Istahri, 134, 247, 257, 300, 322, 337 

It’amara, 288, 293 


Jabb (£4), 99, 149 

Jabbok, 252, 284 

Jacob 134—136, 252, 253, 283 

Al-Ja‘kabi, 55, 60, 61, 124, 279, 321, 322, 337 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Jakut, 11, 25, 26, 33, 38, 48,49, 61, 79; 80; 90, 94, 
975-115; 117, 125, 1335013571367) 1370160, 201; 
DAW: PAN, Call PARA Ale aiiich, CARE He, BRU Obaiey 
257, 273, 280, 284, 289, 295, 301, 309, 3138, 314, 
31650917, 319;132051026,1005 

Janba‘, 139 

Janta‘, 328 

Al-Jasajse, 235 

Jehoram, 274 

Jehoshaphat, 244 

Al-Jemama, 320 

Al-Jemanijje, S. (d2), 89 

Jerde (110), 212 

Jeremiah, Book of, 217, 248, 249, 251, 274, 275, 294 

Jericho, 260 

Jerome, 250, 251, 255, 279, 338 

Jerusalem, 275 

Jethro, 269, 286, 296, 325 

Jews, 114, 275, 289, 318; Mohammed ’s taxation 
ne, 16lZ! 

Jezreel, 260 

Jidda, 69, 126, 129 

JiSbak, 287, 293 

Jitm al-“Imran (d3), 45, 49, 56, 64, 66, 70, 75, 
oN tolls 2S, PPA, PAT 

JODO ZO 2 Ome aol 

JOD D5, 200) 2o2s SOFC L Os COL COL COO moos 
Book of, 248, 249, 288, 289, 293 

Job‘a (i3), 303 

Jobab, 251 

Joel, Book of, 289 

Jogbeha, 284 

JokSan, 217, 287 

Joktan 287, 293 

Jordan, 252, 260, 262, 283, 284 

Joseph, son of Patriarch Jacob, 135, 136, 283 

Josephus, Flavius, 278, 296, 338 

Joshaphat, 244, 253, 274 

Joshua, Book of, 255, 263, 283 

Judea, 244, 245, 258, 261, 262, 274, 277 

Judges, Book of, 244, 255, 260, 266, 268, 284, 
285, 298 

Justinian, 307, 308 


K. Abbreviation for Kulban. See proper name 

Al-Ka‘, 331 

Ka‘ ab-al-“Azam (e11), 220 

Ka‘ al-Basit, 320 

Ka‘ al-Bazwa, 331 

Ka‘ al-Busajt, 160, 329 

Ka‘ as-Sarir, 160 

Al-Ka‘ade (NA k4—5), 32 

Kabala, 54 

Kabr at-TawAaSi, 323—324 

Kabr at-Twasi (k5), 136, 326 

KadeS, 66, 254, 255, 259, 260, 262—266, 269—272, 
275, 276, 278; Bible references to, 266; site 
of, 262 

KadeS Barne‘a, 263—266, 270, 296, 297 

Ka‘edan Raber, 106, 107 

Kaff, Ammu (e4), 43 

Al-Kafha (k9), 214, 216 

Al-Kahala (h—i4), 133, 135, 144 

Al-Kahaze (e3), 96 

Al-Kajn, 160 


INDEX 


Al-Kalat (a5), 11 

Kal‘at. See proper name 

Kalb, 204, 315 

Al-Kalb (i4), 185 

Kalb al-Mgawwah (d6—7), 33 

Al-Kalbe (b5), 9 

Kales, 322 

Kalh (Ferula sinaica, Boiss.; high perennial 
with deeply divided leaves and compound 
umbels of yellow flowers), 68 

Kalha (i5), 1385 

Al-Kalhi (f2), 95, 96 

Kaller, Dr. Mark, 1 

Kalt al-Halfa (e5) 

Kammah, ‘Ajn (g38), 103 

Al-Kamre (i4), 182 

Kanatel, Ammu (h9), 202, 226 

Kansth al-Rawri. See al-Malek al-ASraf 
Kansth al-Rawri 

Al-Kantara (j7), 184 

Karadi, Umm (h4), 1338, 141, 143 

Karamse, 4 

Al-Karana (b4), 10, 50, 51 

Al-Karjatejn, 49 

Karkar (j7), 284 

Karkor, 284 

Karnejn, Abu (j7—8), 208 

Kart al-Amrar (NA 15), 32 

Kart al-“Enab (NA 15), 32 

Kart al-Hamra’ (i—j6), 134, 136 

Kart umm Arta (i—jl2), 219 

Al-Kasab, 139 

al-Kasba, Ras (h1), 117, 131, 302, 304, 309 

Kasem, chief of the ‘Asban, 77—79 

Al-Kasim, 84 

Kasr, See proper name 

Al-Kasts (h5) 

Kata birds, 94, 95 

Kat‘at al-“Egejbi (j—k8), 206 

Al-Katawejn (i10), 226 

Katibe, 220 

Al-Kattar (d3), 68; (£3), 100 

Al-Kawakeb, 318 

Kawasim, Abu-l (i6), 131, 191 

Al-Kawasme, 79 

Al-Kaws (d5), 41 

Kawtar, 80 

Kazm, Ammu (e3), 96 

Al-Kazwini, 97, 135, 278, 281, 309, 338 

Al-Kbejda (b6), 11, 15; (g8), 108, 107, 113 

Al-Kbézat, 129 

Kdad (g2), 103 

Kdar, 37, 61 

Kdejdi (g8), 117 

Al-Kdtd (i9), 226, 228 

Al-Kdtr (¢5), 15, 36, 37—39, 61, 75, 246, 247 

Kebaba, 220 

Al-Kebire, Ma‘an, 4 

Al-Kebrit (h2), 116 

Kedade, Ammu (e3), 76 

Kedar, 310 

Kedar, 246 

Kedem, 282 

Kedem, Bene, 248, 260, 283, .284, 307, 311 

Al-Keder (¢c5), 37 


oot 


Kefa’, Umm (g2), 114, 117 

Kejsim (Pyrethrum Musili, Vel.; scented 
perennial with thin branches, hairy leaves, 
and many heads of blue flowers), 68, 201 

Al-Kejsam (h6), 172 

Kejstma, Abu (c4), 43 

Al-Kejtan (d3), 77 

Al-Kelwa (NA m6—7), 25 

Al-Kena’ (h6), 188—192, 313; (b4), 52, 58, 58; 
(h6—7), 164, 172, 174 

Al-Kena’, Bir (h6), 172, 321 

Al-Kennasijje (NA 1—m5), 31, 32 

Keraja Saleh, 301 

Al-Kerak, %al4;)15,849; 114) 755, 9156;..208, 
273, 328 

Al-Keraker (j7), 182 

Keraker (or Kerazer) (NA j7—8), 284 

Al-Keraker, Nakb (37), 133 

Al-Kerin (e3), 95 

Ketib al-Mbassi, 91, 93 

Al-Ketin, Ab- (h6), 178 

Keturah, 217, 251, 279, 282, 286, 288, 292—294, 296 

Al-Kfafi (k5), 182, 324 

Kibal, 117, 125 

Al-Kible, 281 

Al-Kibrit, Twejjel (j4), 182, 324 

Kibrot hat-Ta’awa, 270 

Al-Kider (d8—4), 71 

Al-Kidman, 69 

Al-Kidrijje (f5—6), 43 

KajalliG 25 

Al-Kijal (h8), 102, 117, 279, 312 

Kings, Books of, 268, 276, 287, 297 

Kir (h4), 123, 135 

Kir, “Ajn (h4), 183 

Kiss, 137 

Al-Kiswe (f3), 96, 327, 328 

Al-Kitara (d3), 80 

Kittel, Rudolf, xii 

Klejb. See proper name 

Al-Klejb (£2), 96, 99 

Al-Klejhi (f2—8, g2), 102 

Al-Klaib (18—9), 182, 134 

Klab al-Hejl (d7), 33 

Al-Kmajjes (j4), 182 

A-Kmejle (h2), 117 

Al-Kné‘er (i8), 201, 202 

Knéfde (Anastatica hierochuntina, L.; rose 
of Jericho; éaff marjam of the Hwétat), 35 

Al-Knej (18), 182, 134 

Al-Knej, Nakb (18), 134 

Al-Knejne (d38), 76 

Al-Knénesijje (d3), 67, 71 

Kober, Dr. Leopold, 1 

Kodama ibn Ga‘far, 323, 338 

Al-Koff (b—e4), 49 

Kohl, 127 

Al-Kolzum, 281, 309 

Kolzum, Gulf of, 281 

Kolzum, Sea of, 48, 84, 136, 280, 309 

Koptos, 299 

Al-Koran, 279, 291 

Al-Korzijje, 96 

Kos al-Hnane (h4), 135, 141 

Al-Krajje (£5), 48, 312 


3508 


Al-Krajje‘e (b4), 52, 538 

Krar, 37 

Al-Krejbat, 105 

Krejdahha (16), 182 

Krejdat al-Arnab (f2—3), 96, 98 

Al-Krejn (e3), 76 

Al-Krejn, S. (e8), 75, 76 

Al-Krejnife (ec—d3), 68 

Al-Krejwet (h6), 176 

Krejzat, Abu (b—c4), 50 

Al-Krejzi (e3), 90 

Al-Krén (b4), 53; (h7), 233 

Al-Krén, S. (¢5), 34, 36 

Krenat al-Razal (h8), 232 

Kreént az-Zejjat (b4), 55 

Krtin, Abu (e38), 75; (i6), 184, 187 

Al-KSabrijje, 133 

Al-Ksara (g2), 113 

Al-Ksara, S. (g2), 103 

Al-Ksejb, Ras (i4), 135 

Al-Ksejb, S. (b3) 

Ksejme, Abu (h5), 150, 151 

Ksejr, Ammu (b4), 52 

Ksejr (or Ksér) at-Tamra’ (h7), 164, 233, 234, 
318, 320 

Ksér abu Tkéka (i8), 129 

Al-Ktajfe (14), 183 

Al-Ktan (k6), 134 

Kté‘at Dijabe (j-k8), 205, 206 

Ktejb az-Zab‘i (b8), 50 

Al-Ktejbe (g3), 117, 121 

Al-Ktejf (e2), 91, 93 

Al-Ktejfe (¢3), 66 

Al-Ktejfe (i7), 182; (j6), 134 

Ktejjat (i7), 199 

Al-Ktejje (i7), 199 

Kubbet al-Hagar, 43 

Al-Kuda‘a, 219 

Al-Kifa, 33, 38, 279, 327 

Al-Kulaba, 322 

Al-Kumma (i4), 135 

Al-Ktr, Ab- (h5), 156 

Kura‘* Rabba, 314 

Kura’ Saleh, 301 

Al-Kura, Wadi (northern), 25, 26; (southern), 
Ay, Ap or, MPA RYE SIRS. PAs, alll, iy —Palep 
230, 256, 257, 259, 279, 281, 300, 301, 316—319, 
326—328 

Al-Kur‘an, 129, 235 

Kurd, 164 

Kurh,7/36,0 13 tpe211) 2183820 eno) 

Kurtasijje (NA k8—4), 38 

Al-Kis (g3), 117, 121 

Kus (Kush), 217 

Kasan, 286 

Al-Kusejbe, 322 

Kusejr ‘Amra (NA i5), 36 

Kush, 286, 287, 288 

Kushites, 247, 274, 286, 288, 294 

Kutejjer, the poet, 94, 117, 125, 188, 125, 
PAIR Aca 

Kwajem (j5), 138, 135 

Al-Kwara (h5), 150, 151 

Kwe’, Umm (h8), 202 

Al-Kwejmi (15), 180, 181 

Al-Kwejse (d4), 47 





THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Al-Kwejsi (h5), 150 

Al-Kwejt, 23 

Al-Kwémra (i4), 133 

Al-Kwéra (c3), 52, 62—64, 66, 255; (15), 133, 181 
Al-Kzejme (a6), 11 


Al-La‘aban (or La‘ban) (38), 201, 202 
Laba, 313 

Laban, 252 

Laeana, 305 

Laeanitae, 305 

Laeanites, 295, 299, 300, 305 
Laeanitic Bay, 306 

Laeanitic Gulf, 292, 295, 302, 308, 305, 306 
Al-Laggiin, 328 

Laha (g3), 103 

Lahaj R6O’i, Be’ér, 265, 266 

Lahm, 71, 72 

Al-Laja (i7), 198—200 

Lajka, 280 

Lala, ‘Ajn (j9), 205 

Lam, Beni, 48, 230, 323, 324 

Lame guide, 194, 202 

Lamentations, Book of, 248 ~ 
Lammens, Henri, 257, 338 
Landmarks, 197 

Al-Lasaf, 218 

Lasam, Umm (d38), 80 

Latje, Umm (g5), 149 

Al-Latt (g2), 103 

Lava, 181, 184, 190, 191 

Al-Lawi (£2), 96; (i6), 185; (k9), 211 
Layard, A.H., 288, 338 

Lebanon, 255 

Leben, Umm (i5), 133; (i7), 196; (NA m5), 32 
Lebenan (d3), 70, 79, 80 

Lebid (i6), 189, 190 

Lebid, the poet, 273, 338 

Al-Lebtn (f3) 

Legends, 10, 76, 81, 96, 97, 99, 176, 215, 227, 281 
Lehjan, 295, 299, 305, 306 

Lehjane (i6), 180, 184, 189; (j4), 132, 1386 
Al-Lehjane (j4—5), 135 

Lemleme (h9—10), 233 

Leo, 306 

Leopard, 175 

Al-Lesel, Ab- (b4), 52, 64, 264, 271 
LetisSim, 287, 293 

Leuke, 310 

Leukekome, 60 

Le’ummim, 287, 293 

Al-Libne (k9), 1382 

Limestone, 59, 67, 108 

Limme (k8), 206 

Lin (kind of palm), 316, 317 

Lis, 39, 329 

Lizard, 124 

Locusts, 75 

Losof, Umm (g2), 114 

Al-Losom (e4), 41 

Al-Lowz (f—g3), 100, 149 

Al-Lowza (j7—8), 183, 203 

Lowze, Ammu (e4), 75 

Lubna’, 79, 80 

Lucius Aurelius Verus, 258 
Lugana, 313 


INDEX 


Al-Lukkam, 48 

Lussén (h—i9), 228 

Lussan, G. (h—i9), 228, 320, 380 
Al-Lwij (i9), 201, 222 

Lycium arabicum, Schw. See ‘Awseg 
Lyon, D.G., 246, 291, 338 


Ma’ Taten (d3), 76 

Al-Ma‘ajjenat (e3), 78, 76, 114 

Al-Ma‘akle, 211 

Ma‘al, 248 

Ma‘an (b4—5), 1—6, 8—10, 18, 14, 16, 18, 22, 
Lil 2 OU OOM OU sEAD AOE OLS O2s 04, 
66; G9; Lea Ose Leb te Longe elle Olsen Gos 
174, 237—239, 243—248, 251, 258, 254, 264, 
PA PAPA, Lith VAR PAYA AST acter iy PEE 
315, 327—329, 331; Arabic authors on, 247; 
Ma‘6on and, 243; map of environs and, 3; 
return to, 238; shooting at, 238 

Al-Ma‘anan (d38), 68 

Al-Ma‘atijje (£8), 96 

Al-Ma‘attek (e3) 

Al-Ma‘‘aze (Beni “Atijje), 45, 102, 235 

Al-Ma‘‘azi. See Sahjet al-Ma‘‘azi 

Al-Mabna’ (k10), 215 

Al-Mabrak (e8), 75, 76, 98, 94, 273 

Mabrak an-Naka, 220, 329 

Al-Mab‘tk (g2), 115 

Madaba, 156 

Al-Madamje, 235 

Madan, 290 

Madan, 314 

Madana, 312 

Al-Madbah (k9), 38 

Ma‘den Faran, 211 

Madiam, 255, 279, 296 

Madiama, 258, 279, 290, 298, 296, 313 

Madian, 66, 109—111, 1183—116, 120, 121, 244, 
250, 267—270, 276—278, 282, 283, 285—287, 
289, 290, 293, 296—298, 318; city of, 278; 
land of, 267, 269, 285; map of ancient, 
110; tribe of, 282 

Madiana, 278, 296 6 

Madianites, 251, 260, 264, 269, 276, 278, 
282—288, 290, 293, 296; clans, 287; various 
tribes, 2938 

Madjan 71, “72, 125, 133, 736, 137, =256;, 257; 
269, 278—282, 298, 296, 299, 301, 304, 312, 
316, 319—826 

Al-Madkitr, Bir (i6), 189 

Madman, 202 

Al-Madsts (b); (j4), 132 

Al-Madsts, Nakb (g8—4), 100, 102 

Al-Ma‘ejsi (e3—4), 52 

Al-Ma‘ékel (k8—9), 51, 211 

Al-Ma‘eze, 72, 73 

Mafares ar-Ruzz (j—k11), 220, 330 

Al-Magniin, Twejjel (e4—5), 43 

Al-Mahamid, 69 

Al-MahaS (g5), 150 

Al-Mahaza (k8), 132, 134, 206 

Al-Mahaza (110), 212 

Maid and boulder, 227 

Ma‘in, 243, 295 

Al-Ma‘in, G. (55), 71, 72, 185, 137 

Maina, 114 


509 


Maisaimaneis, 292 

Maisaimeneis, 311 

Majaser, 211 

Majkia‘ (m9), 38 

Al-Makable, 69, 79 

Al-Mak‘ade (h3—4), 139 

Makass al-As‘ad. See Al-As‘ad 

Makbara, 220 

Makbial, Eben, 95 

Al-Makes, 314 

Al-Makhdal (15), 133 

Al-Makje (f3), 97, 102 

Al-Makla (g3—4), 100, 101, 107, 149 
Al-Makla, Nakb (g8—4), 100, 102, 149 
Al-Makmi (b5), 12, 15, 39 

Makna, 114, 312, 313 

Makna (g2), 6, 102, 118—116, 125, 312, 3138 
Makran a8-Sekk (k9), 214 

Al-Makrizi, 136, 137, 256, 281, 309, 316, 320, 33 
Maksadet ad-Dunja’ (h9), 226, 229 

Maksadet al-Kasja’ (h9), 226, 229 

Maksar al-Gerra, 80 

Al-Makstd (i8), 124 

Al-Maktala (16) 

Al-Maktale. See Srejf al-Maktale 

Malachi, Book of, 297 

Al-Malaka (j7), 184 

Malaka’ al-Ajtaém, 80 

Malaria, 84, 167 

Malchus of Philadelphia, 306, 307, 338 
Al-Malek al-ASraf Kansth al-Rawri, 134, 324 
Al-Malek al-Mu‘azzam ‘Isa, 224, 327 
Al-Malek an-Naser Muhammed ibn Kela’tn, 134 
Malek ibn Harim, 71, 73 

Al-Malfi (e4), 96 

Al-Malha (j9), 222; (i4—5), 185; 178—120 
Al-Malhaga (h5), 133 

Al-Malhaga, Nakb (h5), 180 

Al-Malik al-ASraf Sejfaddin Kajitbaj, 324 
Al-Malkata (g3), 118, 120, 121 

Malran, S. (d2—3) 

Al-Mambar (f7), 160 

Al-Mamlah (a5), 10; (27), 149, 172 
Al-Mamlah, S. (d2), 90 

Al-Manabb (17), 184 

Al-Manaher (i7), 197 

Al-Ma‘nan. See al-Ma‘anan 

Al-Manatt (j4), 182 

Manazer as-Serki, 95 

Al-Manhal, 214, 216 

Maon, 277 

Ma‘on, 243, 244, 247, 254, 274, 282, 288, 287, 288. 
See also Ma‘an 

Ma‘onites, 253, 254, 2838 

Mara’, 267, 268 

Al-Maradd (i10), 224 

Maradif, Abu (i9), 205 

Maraj‘e. See Meraj‘e 

Maran, 160 

Al-Marar, 71, 72 

Marares az-Zir, 220, 329, 330 
Marauders, 14, 37, 74, 131 
Marcianus of Heraclea, 124, 338 
Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, 258 
Mardtd, Klejb (h6—7), 172, 194 
Al-Marmak (b6), 12, 15 





560 


Al-Marr (k5), 132 

Al-Marra (16), 182 

Marra, ‘Ajn (g3), 1038 

Al-Marra umm Garda’ (g3), 117, 121 

Marrute (2.076 

Al-Marrtt, 71, 73, 315 

Al-Marsa (£2), 96 

MarSa’, Bir (f2), 96 

Marsimani, 291—293 

Marzuk al-Kefafi, Sheikh, 324, 326 

Mas’a, 288 

Al-Masabhe, 201, 235 

Masareb, Abu (k5) 

Al-Maskah (h5), 180 

MaSra’ (f3), 97, 100 

Al-Masri, Bijar (b4), 51 

Al-Masrijje, Ma‘an, 4 

Massa, 260, 288 

Al-Mas‘tdi, 37, 60, 134, 246, 319, 338 

Al-Matalka, 7 

Mat‘ama, 100 

Matent al-Fle’ (j8), 206 

Matent al-Habwa (i—jl10), 223 

Matent al-Merw (j8), 206 

Matent a3-Sujah (h2—3), 117 

Al-Math (b6), 15, 16 

Al-Mathane (h4—5), 133, 144 

Al-Ma‘tijje. See al-Ma‘atijje 

Matlak eben Rbejje‘, 175 

Al-Ma‘w (h9), 228 

Al-Maw‘ada (i7), 196 

Al-Mawase, 129 

Mawdt‘, 11 

Al-Mawkre (j4), 132, 135 

M‘awwal al-‘Azab (b3), 55 

Mazham, 220 

Al-Mazham (111), 220, 329, 330 

Al-Mazlam (c6—7), 35 

Al-Mazmar (d4), 45, 68 

Al-Mdajfen (c—d3), 50, 67 

Al-Mdawwara (d5—6), 27, 33, 175, 236, 331 

Mdejfa‘at (a5—6), 11 

Mdejsis (j9), 222 

Al-Mdejsis (h9), 226, 229 

Mditn, 290 

Mé Meriba, 265, 266 

Mecca, 48, 69, 95, 105, 130, 139, 230, 247, 257, 
259, 278, 280, 320—323, 327, 328 

Al-Medafe* (f9) 

Al-Meda‘ik (h4), 133, 144 

Medajen Saleh (NA s7), 154, 155, 162, 165, 
A AA Paley, ele wey, A, BLO) 

Medan, 287 

Al-Medarig (h6—7), 159, 173 

Al-Medhem (18), 134 

Al-Medina, 2, 9, 26, 33, 38, 43, 49, 60, 61, 69, 
80, 84, 94, 95, 97, 134—136, 204, 205, 211, 
218, 221, 256, 257, 259, 273, 279—281, 301, 
314—316, 318—328, 330 

Medine Faran, 281 

Medlig, 99 

Al-Medra’ (h7), 172, 318, 320 

Meerschaum, 100 

Mehar, 160 

Al-Mehartka (or al-Mahartka), (h5), 155, 156 

Mehir abu ‘Alda, 32 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Mehmed Edib, 33, 39, 438, 160, 218, 220, 224, 
230, 232, 248, 301, 320, 329, 338 

Al-Mehtebi (i9), 202 

Al-Mehteteb (g6—7—8), 150, 160, 
257; (g7) 

Meinaion, 251 

Al-Mejseri (i4), 135 

Mejstra (i8), 202 

Al-Mekbel (i10), 220, 224 

Al-Mekjal (d3), 74 

Mekreh al-Gemal (d3), 76 

Ham-Melah, Gé’, 253 

Al-Melhem (h5), 156 

Al-Meljan (i5), 132, 133, 180 

Al-Mellah (h3), 1383 

Al-Mellah, Darb (h8), 136, 324, 326 

Al-Menage‘e, 69 

Meraj‘e, 7, 54, 235 

Meriba, 260, 269 

Meribat KadeS, 255, 266, 278, 298 

Al-Mersed, Harm (c—d3), 50, 62, 65—67, 69 

Al-Mersed, Klejb (d3), 68, 69 

Al-Merw (h4), 188, 141 

Al-Merwa, Nakb (j6), 136 

Merwan, Beni, 134 

Merwan ibn al-Hakam, 327 

Al-Mesabe (i6), 184, 185 

Al-Mesadd (g—h2), 80, 114 

Al-Mesahir, 129 

Al-Mesa‘id (h2—3—4), 99, 101, 102, 108, 117, 
121, 129, 324 

Al-MeSall, 99 

Al-Mesann, 56 

Al-MeSarik (e3—4), 52 

Mesembryanthemum Forskahlei, Hochst. See 
Semh 

Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum, L. See Semh 

Mesged du al-Gife, 26 

Messa, 269 

Mesta, Umm, 95 

Al-Mestebek (i4), 182 

Al-Metaha (f3), 97 

Al-Me‘tedan (j—k6), 135, 136 


196, 202, 


. Me‘in, 243—247, 253 


Me‘tiinites, 253, 274, 283 

Al-Mezajin (h9—10), 226 

Al-Me‘zanijje (c4), 47 

Al-Mgawéa, 50, 51 

Al-Mgejfel (e3), 96 

Al-Mgejnin (j9), 222 

Al-Mhaddes (19—10), 212 

Al-Mhaggar (d2), 89 

Al-Mhajnek (j6), 136 

Mhakhak al-Cabd (e6—7), 34 

Mhammad, the negro, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 23, 
Pa SUR BY Bi BER CEI te Cagle day XN ale 
65, 72—74, 88, 98, 101, 105, 109, 117, 118, 
13739143," 1465" 157; 3159)" 160; 163°" poetry; 
105, 157 

Mhammad eben Bassam, 20 

Mhammad eben Fajez, 36 

Mhammad eben RaSid, 23 

Al-Mharrak (d4), 68; (g6), 149, 150 

Al-Mharraka (19), 212 

Al-Mhartk (¢4), 47, 65 

Al-Mhas (d—e5), 41 


INDEX 


Al-Mhas, 117 

Al-Mhassa (f5), 438 

Al-Mhassab (h3), 124 

Al-MhaSSam (j5), 182 

Al-Mhassar, Harm (c7), 32 

Al-Mhatta (g3), 97, 101 

Al-Mhawa (g4), 149 

Al-Mhawwar (h5), 150, 151 

Al-Mhejbel (g6), 150, 176 

Al-Mhejdi (h9), 226 

Al-Mhejmez (f2—3), 96, 100 

Al-Mhejmi (h5), 150, 154, 156 

Al-Mhejr (h9), 226, 228, 317 

Al-Mhejs, S. (d5), 41 

Al-Mhemm (f8), 96, 100 

Al-Migdar (l—m12) 

Migrating families, 45 

Mikwan al-Hags (g3), 108, 104 

Mil, Ammu (c6), 16, 35, 36 

Military Geographical Institute at Vienna, xi 

Minaeans, 243, 251, 288, 295, 302, 304 

Minaei, 310 

Al-Minh (h5), 150, 151 

Minkasi (g3), 117 

Minwa, Habra (b7), 17, 19, 24, 31 

Al-Mirgihem (g5), 149, 150 

Miriam, 265, 271 

Al-Misma, 97, 100, 101 

MiSpat, “En, 259, 262, 263, 275, 276 

Al-Mistah (j4), 132 

Mists, 77, 122, 124 

Miswal (i110), 220, 224 

Al-Mizwar (h6), 172, 175 

Al-MizzZe (k10), 215, 221 

Mkasseb, 70, 76, 77 

Al-Mkattabe (k12) 

Mkébel (i10), 226 

Al-Mkejhil (d6), 33; (h10) 

Mkejmen (h6), 178—180; (b5) 

Mkutr, Ammu (d4), 68 

Al-Mléh (15); (e3), 50, 65 

Al-Mléha (k8), 208 

Mlejsa (j8), 205 

Al-Mlosoma (h5), 154 

Al-Mnakka (110), 215, 221 

Al-Mnawah, S. (b7), 17 

Al-Mnejdir (f4), 43 

Al-Mnekka, Darb, 285 

Al-Mnife (g8), 108, 117 

Moab, 5, 66, 125, 248, 250, 252, 254, 260, 264, 
265, 272, 275, 279, 280, 283, 284, 288, 297 

Moabite plain, 285 

Moabites, 244, 2538, 283, 285 

Moawiyah, 160 

Al-Modejne, 312 

Modiana, 312 

Moduna, 312 

Al-M6geb, 280 

Mohammed, 26, 72, 204, 214, 218, 229, 273, 293, 
300, 318, 314, 318; taxes Jews, 114 

Al-Mohr (h9), 226 

Mojet al-Béza (j8), 203 

Mojet al-Gbejl (57), 134 

Mojet al-Hsane, 99 

Mojet Raman (d3—4), 68 

Méjet Sowa. See SowSa 





o61 


Monuments, 59 

Morajer, 230 

Morajer ‘Abid Musa, 214 

Morajer al-Kalenderijje, 232 

Morajer Su‘ejb (g3), 84, 102, 108, 109, 282, 
38238—326, 331 

Al-Morar (d8—4), 68, 71, 72 

Morar ‘Antar, 72, 73 

Al-Morara (c5), 43 

Al-Morara (b4), 4 

Morarat al-Kalenderijje, 329, 330 

Morejrat al-Fater (NA n§8), 26 

Morr (g5), 150 

Al-Morr (¢4), 52 

Moses, 255, 260, 263—265, 267, 269, 271, 278—281, 
283, 285, 286, 296—298, 325; caves of his ser- 
vants, 214; water from the rock, 265 

Mosques, 26, 160, 218, 230, 318 

Mould, 161 

Mountain of God, 
296—298 

Mountains, architectural illusions, 122; strange 
TOEMS 141. 14 AoE DO 

Al-Mowreda (h8), 232 

Al-Mradder (j4), 182 

Mrah (f3), 100 

Al-Mrah (h3), 117, 122, 324 

Al-Mrajfek (15), 133 

Al-Mrakin, 235 

Mrallan (k8), 208 

Mrar (Centaurea arabica, 
Musili, Vel.; an annual 
bristly flower heads), 35 

Al-MraSSa (f4), 43] 

Al-Mratijje (d2), 73, 90 

Al-Mratijje (£6), 37, 221 

Al-Mrejbet, 56 

Al-Mrejfek (h3), 117 

Al-Mrejgdijje (NA m5), 32 

Al-Mrejjera (b4), 7, 37, 52, 246, 247 

Al-Mrejra (d4), 47, 68 

Al-Mrejra (k9), 214 

Al-Mrejtbe (j6—7—i7), 136; (j6—7), 134 

Al-Mrejwez (d38), 68 

Al-Mrejzel (g2), 115 

Al-Mrir abu Hajme (i4), 132 

Al-Mrir abu HaSim (i4), 132 

Al-Msahh (i—j10), 222, 223 

Al-Msajbe, 131 

Msajbet Sarma (h—i3), 129, 131, 132, 303 

Al-MSakkar (i6) 184; (j—k9), 205, 214 

Al-Msalla (g3), 112, 113 

Al-Msallam, Bir (£4), 48, 235 

Msas. See proper name 

Al-MS8aSs (¢5), 15, 38; (i10), 226 

Al-Msattara, Ras (c4), 41, 44, 47 

Msawer (c3), 50, 62 

Al-Msawwal (b5), 10, 11, 43 

Al-Msawwal, Msas (b4—5) 

Al-Mséfre (i11), 220, 222 

Al-Mséh, 133 

Msejhet (e3), 95 

MSejjid (j8) 

Al-MSejjid (j8), 205 

MSejjiS al-Hamis (or MSejs al-Hamis) (h5—6), 
150; on 


267, 269, 270, 278, 286, 


Vel.; Centaurea 
centaury with 





5362 


Al-Msejlke (k8), 206 

Msejmir (b8) 

Al-Msejr (h2) 

MSej8 al-“Abd (h6), 172 

Al-MSejtijje (or al-MSétijje) (d6), 27, 38 

Al-MSejtijje, Darb (d6), 221 

Msellem al-“Ezejdi, 235 

Al-MSérif (NA n6), 32; (h9), 229 

Msét (b3) 

Mtejr, 24 

Mti (dry da‘lik al-gemal; Scorzonera Musili, 
Vel.; a perennial with long roots, white, 
dense branches, and hairy heads of yellow- 
ish flowers), 35 

Al-Mu‘affara (g8), 
(h8—4) 

Mu‘ajzeb (e5), 43 

Al-Mu‘akkar (i9, i—j9), 226 

Al-Mu‘allak (e3), 96 

Mu‘arras (j4), 1382 

Al-Mu‘azzam, fortress and railway station 
(410) 5415455 155582098 213, 929) 2205822400225; 
DAT ALS OAC ODO O CT oe om esO; 

Mudir at Tebak, 161, 165, 171, 221, 234, 236 

Al-Mu‘ejsi (g7), 161, 172 

Al-Mu‘ezz (h6), 172, 174, 175 

Al-Mufa’ (i4), 1383 

Al-Muhalleba, 68 

Muhammad eben ‘Emran, 235 

Muhammad eben Mes‘ed, 235 

Muhammed ibn ‘Ali, 37, 60 

Muhammed ibn Sa‘din al-‘Abdari, 326 

Muhammed, Ras, 257 

Muhammed, Ras Abi, 257 

MuhaSSar al-Hazem (h5), 150 

Al-Muhdata, 257, 327 

Al-Muhtedi (c¢3) 

Al-Muhteles (j7—8), 132, 133, 203 

Al-Mukaddasi, 125, 185—1387, 211, 256, 257, 
Pie GAs AS BU Bet SWAY BHIY) 

Al-Mukatta (b4) 

Al-Mukawel, 325, 326 

Mukl (kind of palm), 281, 323 

Mala, 319 

Miller, D.H., 295, 339 

Al-Mumbatah, Nakb (c4—5), 41 

Al-Muna’, 71, 73 

Al-Murajta, 322 

Al-Mu‘reka, Darb, 321 

Al-Murita, 33 

Murra, Beni, 11, 218 

Misa, 130, 131 

Misa, Wadi, 38, 50, 58, 59, 70, 72, 73, 96, 101, 
109, 268, 271 

Al-Musab (i4), 183; (k11), 221 

Musil, Alois, Arabia Petraea, xi, 4, 6, 50, 54, 
66, 69, 85, 129, 211, 389; Karte von Arabia 
Petraea, 251, 255, 263, 264, 266, 339; Kuszjr 
“Amra, xi, 228, 3389; Umgebungskarte von 
Waddi Misa, Petra, 264, 265, 339 

Musilia arabica, Vel. See ‘Arfeg 

Al-Mustabra (h8—9), 231; (h8), 202 

Al-Mustahakna (e5), 43 

Mustapha Pasha, 230 

Al-Mutalla‘ (k11), 221, 327 

Al-Mutallak (i9), 226 


108, 105, 123, 182, 149; 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Al-Mutallat, 323, 324 

Mutallek, the shepherd, 171, 174, 175, 178, 181, 
182; 185; 227, 232,.235 

Al-Mutanabbi, the poet, 317 

Al-Mutawwaha (k9—10), 216 

Al-Mutawwak (or al-Mtawwak) (j10), 219, 222 

Al-Mu‘tedel (112), 301 

Al-Mutrammel (c5), 38 

Al-Muttala‘a (e4), 75 

Al-Mwahib, 208, 211 

Al-Mwejzi® (19), 312 


Al-Mweéleh (3), 96, 99; (j4), 125, 131, 186, 137, 


257, 293, 303, 328—825 
Al-Mwéleh, Kal‘at, 325 
Al-Mwéleh, S. (b3), 55 
Mwéreb, G. (k7), 132, 134, 136 
Mwéred (h6—7) 

Myos Hormos, 299 
Al-Mzannad (g5, h5), 149 
Al-Mzéb‘e (h5), 226 
Al-Mzéhfe (k5—6), 1384 
Al-Mzejjen (c6—7), 33 
Al-Mzélke (h5) 

Al-Mzelze (111—12), 220 
Al-Mzérid (i9), 226 
Mzérikat, Ammu (i4), 133 
Al-Mzess (k11—12) 





N. Abbreviation for Nakb. See proper name 


An-Na‘ajem (i8), 198, 199, 232 
Na‘ama, 251 

An-Na‘ame (i7—8), 198, 202, 232 
An-Na‘ami (d—e3), 75 

An-Nabaka (16) 

Nabal, 277 

Nabataea, 251 

Nabataean Arabs, 302—305, 309—313 
Nabataean inscriptions, 112, 185 
Nabataean land, 305 

Nabataeans, 59, 65, 120, 278, 291, 295 
Nabe‘ (k6) 

An-NA@bira, 90, 228, 339 

Nabk, 211, 257 

An-Nabk, 71, 72, 137, 211, 322, 323 
An-Na‘ejza (h—i5), 132, 133, 144 
An-Na‘emi (h4), 90, 183, 147, 148, 151, 317 
Nahal Besor, 261 

An-Nahala (h2), 117; (i4), 133 
An-Nahala, Klejb (h2) 

An-Nahalas, S. (h4) 

Nahale, Umm, 144 

An-Nahl, Kal‘at, 286 

an-Nahr, 266 

Najef (j9), 205, 216, 222 

An-Naka, 231 

Naka‘ al-“Alejjin (d—e5—6), 41 
Naka‘ Kemajem (h5), 151, 153, 154 
Nakb. See proper name 

Nakwa (i4), 133 

An-Namala, 244, 247, 263—266, 270 
Na‘man, 317 

An-Na‘man (k4—5), 136, 187, 257, 309 
An-Na‘man ibn BaSir, 160 
An-Namra (i4—5), 188; (j6), 184; (j—k6), 136 
Narar (k7), 132, 136, 206 

An-Nasara (c4), 50 


INDEX 363 


An-Nasfe (¢4), 45, 47 Nobah, 284 
Nasi (dry sobot; Aristida plumosa, L.; a Nokalians, 306, 307 
smooth grass with roots which sand sticks Nomads, Road of the, 284 


to, and winged fruits), 68, 232, 233 No‘man, 228 
Nasr, 218 Northern Hegaz; classical and Arabic authors 
An-Nassas, Nakb (g3—4), 103 on, 302, 309; coast and islands, 302 
Nate’ (a kind of heliotrope), 68 Notebook, lost, 211, 236 
An-NateS (f2), 96 Notitia dignitatum, 60, 258, 339 
An-Natla (111—12) Nsal, Ammu (d3), 76; (j7), 134 
An-Nawawi, 125, 339 Nsejb, Ammu (h—i6), 172, 192 
An-Nawman (i—j7), 132 NéSejfe, Abu (h7), 172, 233 
Naz‘an (17) 185 Nsejle, Ummu (d2—3), 83 
An-Ndejra (h2), 117 Nsejlet al-“Ajn (g8—4), 100 
An-Ndérat (g5), 149 An-Nstr, Ab-, 53 
Ndérat al-Fh«al (e5—6), 43 INUESG@6)selocwelodmeliasslo4 101 
Nebat as-Swémrat, 52 An-Nuhbar (i8—4), 132, 135 
Nebk, 211, 257 An-Nukra, 284 
An-Nebk, 136 Numbers, Book of, 260, 263—265, 267, 269—272, 
Necropolis of Morajer Su‘ejb, 109. See also 278, 283, 286 

Burial places Nu‘mi, 90 
Neda’, Abu (d3), 68 An-Nu‘mi, 90 
Nedra (e4), 438, 75 Nurejjer (k7), 132, 136, 206 
Nedrat as-Sba* (h6), 157, 176 An-Niiri eben Sa‘lan, 2, 8, 24, 27, 37, 239 
Nefel (Trigonella hamosa, L.; Trigonella Nurra (e4), 71, 75 

monantha, CAM.; Trigonella stellata, An-Nusaj‘, 117 

Forsk.; a clover-like plant), 303 An-Nusba (k5), 132 
An-Neftd (NA 010—14, p15), 34, 37, 163, 289, An-Nuttak, 220 

296,e31 lipo t2, Nuwejbe® (i7) 
An-Negal, 212 An-Nwabte, 235 
Negd (19) 5 21239225 257, 261, 287 An-Nwéb‘e (or an-Nuwejb‘e) (d3), 90, 100; 
Negel (a4), 5, 11 (i7), 196 
An-Negel (i4), 136 Nwejfat (or Nuwejfat) (i6—7), 132, 134, 184, 191 
An-Negili (NA n6), 32; 214 An-Nzérat (f8), 101 
An-Negme (k9), 211 
Nehemiah, Book of, 298 Al-“Obejjat, 129 
Nekadat, Umm (h5), 150 Obejjez abu Zukra (h—i6), 133 
An-Nekwa, 8. (f2), 96 Obejjez at-Tarik (h6), 133, 179 
Nessa, 3802—304 Obelisks, 156 
An-Netki, Nakb (i5—6), 184 Obodas, 59, 60, 299, 310 
An-Netki, Ras (i5) Obdt, 272 
Nezaha (j6), 136 Obraka, 313 
An-Nezib (j8, k8), 205—208 Al-‘Odejb, 325, 326 
Nezth (i9), 205, 226 Officials, 62, 84 
An-Ngejli (£4), 43 Ohod, 316 
An-Ngér (i4), 136 “Okba’, Beni, 81, 102, 114, 230 
Nhejl, 317 “Okba’, MsasS Beni (i5), 180 
An-Nhejl (£2), 96 Al-‘Okbijje, 81 
An-Nhejle, S. (¢3) Al-‘Okfi, 85 
Nhejle, Ummu (¢3), 50 “Omar ibn ‘Abdal‘aziz, 320 
Nhejr, 317 ‘Omar ibn al-Hattab, 33, 319 
Nigm az-Zjafi, 235 Omayyads 117, 247, 321, 326, 327 
Nihja, 317 Al-‘Omejdén (i8), 202 
Nikd (Asteriscus graveolens, Forsk.; shrub “Omejjed (k9), 215, 216 

with hard, gray, hairy branches and many “Omejr (d4), 41 

heads of yellow flowers), 68 “Omejris (j9), 205 
Nile, 299, 310 “Onejbeé (k8), 206 
Nimr, 175 Onne, 124, 125, 258, 312 
An-Nimrijjat (i7—8), 198, 199, 232 ‘Orf, Umm (j9), 218 
An-Nimrijje (£2), 96 Ornub (h4—5), 131, 132, 147, 150; (h4), 1338, 144 
Niran, S. Umm (h3), 123 Ostama, 312 
An-Nis‘a, 4 Othman, Caliph, 322 
An-Nkejb, 38; 231 Othman Pasha, 39, 220, 232 
Nkejra (e3), 75, 76 “Otman Huwéret, 259 
Nmar, Abu. See Temilet abu Nmar 
An-Nmejr (g3), 97, 103, 105 Palestina Salutaris, 258 


Nmejra (i4) Palestina Tertia, 248, 255, 258, 307, 208 


064 


Palestine, 60, 64, 134, 247, 248, 252, 253, 256, 
259, 260, 262, 265, 274, 278; 280, 282; 285, 
291, 302, 304, 307, 308, 314, 321 

Palestine road, 66 

Palms; 93,121, 123, 140, 141 

Palmyra (NA c8), 317 

Paran, 250, 255, 263, 266, 269—271, 275—278, 
287, 298 

Partridge, 94, 95 

Peiser, F. E., 246, 289, 290 

Pelusiae arm of the Nile, 310 

Pelusium, 310 

Pennisetum dichotomum, Forsk. See Etman 

Persian: Gulf, 5, 251, 257, 298, 306, 311, 318 

Persians, 306 

Peter, Bishop, 306 

Petra, 38; 60,65, 66; 705 246), 247, 2503 251; 
2538—255, 259, 260, 263—266, 270—272, 278, 
281, 290, 296—298, 302, 304, 310—312 

Petrified pigs, 227 

Petrified sea, 232 

Petrified worms, 232 

Philistines, 245, 274 

Phoda, 310 

Phodaca, 310 

Phoenicia, 254, 264, 283 

Phoenician harbors, 5 

Phoinikon, 312 

Phokon, 304 

Pilgrim Route from Egypt, 49, 84, 95, 97, 121, 
Ie, AWA, aii, 2h, PHP PAR, PADS CRESS 

Pilgrim Route from al-Kifa, 257 

Pilgrim Route from Syria, 9, 14, 33, 37, 38, 
97, 1382, 185, 161, 168, 168, 217, 220—228, 225, 
226, 231, 286, 257, 318, 319, 326—330 

Pilgrims, 39,84, 220; protection, 9, 69; robbery 
of, 104, 160; stations for, 129, 134 

Pillars, broken, 58 

Plants, collection, 76; lack of, 83, 88 

Plateaus, 157 

Pliny, 251, 290, 295, 299, 300, 305, 306, 310, 311, 339 

Poems composed to the author, 105, 157 

Praesidio, 65, 66 

Prisoners, 94 

Procopius of Caesarea, 255, 306—308, 339 

Promised Land, 245, 260, 268, 265, 270, 271, 
278, 284, 286 

Prophet. See Mohammed 

Protection, 150 

Psalms, Book of, 266, 285, 297, 298 

Ptolemies, 131 

Ptolemy, Claudius, 60, 94, 114, 124, 135, 246, 

255, 2738, 279, 290, 291, 296, 300, 306, 311, 
312, 313, 318, 339 

Pulpits, 134, 160 

Panon, 252 

Pyramids, 67, 68, 155, 156 

Pyrethrum Musili, Vel. See Kejstim 


Quarantine station at Tebaik, 163, 168, 234 


R. Abbreviation for Radir. See proper name 
Ra‘ama, 217, 251, 289 

Ar-Rabba, 279 

Raber, 69 

Raber, S. (¢4), 41 

Rabi‘ijjin, 79 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Rada (see Raga), 257 

Radejrat Zajed (a6—7), 11 

Radh as-Sumr (NA m6), 32 

Radha (h—i9), 226 

Ar-Radi (i10), 226 

Radijje, “Ajn (i4) 

Radjan, 66, 268, 286 

Radma (h4), 122, 123 

Ar-Rafid (g—f2), 101, 269 

Rafwan (k8), 206 

Ar-Raha (g3), 97, 100, 103, 107, 149 

Ar-Rahaba (j7), 1838, 136, 211 

Raham birds, 156 

Ar-Rahama (110), 212 

Ar-Rahbijje, S. (d2), 88 

Raiders, 233; at Tebtik, 234 

Railway, Hegaz, 223; construction, 226, 
201, Zoo 

Rainfall, 74; lack of, 100, 122 

Ra’is, 160 

Al-Rajalin, 69 

Rajaman (h2—3), 124 

Al-Rajbe (k8), 206 

Rajdan (k6), 135, 136 

Ar-Rajes (h7), 160, 161, 172, 234, 321 

Rajfe, 289, 290 

Al-Rajme (g—h3), 108, 123 

Ar-Rajme (j6) 

Ar-Raka (g—h3), 117, 121 

Raka, Abu (k9), 185, 210, 213 

Rakak (24), 149 

Ar-Rakak, Darb (i5, k7), 131, 136, 137 

Ar-Rakeb (g5), 149 

Al-Ral (j5), 182, 135, 325, 326 

Ral, G.(j5), 181, 133 

Ralal (f2—), 96 

Raman (d3), 45, 50, 68 

Ar-Ramla (d5) 

Ramm (d4), 6, 45, 47, 68, 72, 258, 270, 273, 297, 
ae aby ILS Saye 

Al-Ramr, 321 

Ar-Ramti (e2), 95 

Ranem, Bijar, 218] 

Al-Rara (g3), 97, 101 

Rarab, Abu (b3), 55, 56 

Ar-Raraj (k—19), 212 

Rarajer, Abu (j4), 132 

Al-Rarak (g3), 108, 105 

Al-Rarama (g3), 121 

Raramil ar-Rwala’ (j11), 220 

Rarandal, “Ajn, 84 

Rarandal, S. (b3), 55 

Rareb (k10), 215 

Rarejmin, Umm (i4), 133 

Al-Rarid (g8), 117 

Rarntk (d8), 68 

Rarr (110) 


224, 


Al-Rarr (h4), 133, 137, 140, 141 


Rarr, Bir 141, 322 

Rarrtr (i4), 135 

Ras. See proper name 

Ar-RaSsde (j8), 202, 204 

RasSed, Umm (f2—8), 95 

RaSid, Eben, 26, 154, 165, 217, 221 
Ar-Rasifijje, Darb (h3), 136, 137, 141 
Ar-Rass (f4), 149 


INDEX 


Rassan, Beni, 228, 

Al-Ratafan, 11, 218, 315 

Ratam (Retama Roetam, Forsk.; shrub with 
long rather stiff branches, long needle- 
shaped leaves, and hanging scented flowers; 
see Fig. 81), 38, 56, 62, 100, 102, 123, 145, 151, 
174, 176, 179, 198, 201, 213 

Ar-Ratam (d5), 41 

Ar-Ratam, Wadi (c5), 41 

Ar-Ratama (a5); (e4—5), 41. See also Hazbat 
ar-Ratama 

Ar-Ratami (a5), 9 

Ar-Ratawa (d3), 68 

Rati, Umm (e4), 43 

Ratijje (k9), 213 

Ar-Ratijje (i4), 132 

Ar-Ratijje (c5—6), 35 

Ar-Ratijje, MSas (cb—6), 37 

Ratje (i—j6), 184; (k8), 206 

Ar-Ratje (da), 33 

Ratje, Umm (i5—6), 184 

Ravenna Geographer, 339 

Ravines, 53, 55, 159, 222; al-Kena’, 191; az- 
Zjejke, 146, 148 

Rawa (h4), 123, 124 

Ar-Rawa (h4), 128, 132, 135 

Al-Rawanem (g8), 160 

Ar-Rawazin, 169, 178, 180, 235 

Ar-Rawjan (i5), 182, 133, 170, 179, 180 

Rawlinson, H.C., 246, 274, 291, 339 

Al-Rawr, 257 

Raza (tree-like bush with long, flexible 
boughs and lean needle-shaped leaves; see 
the highest bush in Fig. 66), 66, 126, 159, 
160, 172, 174, 177, 217, 320, 331. See also Rada 

Raza wood, 160 

Raza, Umm. See Satnet umm Raza 

Razi, (hd); 1337 135 

Ar-Razijje, Sbn. (e3), 96 

Al-Razwan (h9—10), 226, 229, 233 

RAZZA, ileal. 

Rbejje‘ abu Tajeh, 7, 8 

Rbejla (h8), 117 

Ar-Rbejlat, 235 

Al-Rdawijje (¢7), 32 

Rdéhat as-Sféra (i10), 226 

Rdejhat al-Hamz (h6), 175 

Rebee, 62 

Red Sea, 6, 15, 49, 72, 75, 95, 102, 128, 124, 135, 
252, 254—258, 264, 265, 267, 273, 277—279, 
291, 295, 299, 305—310, 319 

Reeds, Sea of, 254, 264, 265, 267, 269, 272 

Reta-a ibn Zejd, 313-315 

Refade, Eben, 211, 217 

Refidim, 260, 269 

Rehob, 263 

Rejlan, S. (f5—6), 43 

Rekajes, Abu (e3), 75 

Ar-Rekarik (h7) 

Ar-Rekijje (e3), 58 

Resafa, 212 

Ar-Resafa (d3), 80 

Resafat al-Hegaz, 212 

Reseda alba, L. See Danabndab 

Reservoirs, 16, 59, 230, 282; Al-Ahzar, 229; 
Al-Mu‘azzam, 224; natural, 216; Tebak, 167 


365 


Resin, 174 

Retama Roetam, Forsk. See Ratam 

Retame (i6), 183, 184, 190, 191 

Ar-Retame (i7), 199 

Ar-Retame, Klejb (e3), 96 

Revolt, 239 

Rgsam, Ammu (NA n5—6), 32 

R&am Sowhar (h7), 164, 233 

Ream, Ummu (h4), 135, 141 

Rha, Ammu (g5), 149 

Ar-Rha’® (NA k5), 32 

Ar-Rha (i6), 184 

Ar-Rha, Harrat. See Harrat ar-Rha 

Rhajjat, Abu (e8—4), 96 

Rhajje (j9), 205, 222 

Ar-Rhajje (110), 215 

Rhejjan (k12) 

Ar-Rhejmi (i5—6), 180 

Ri* (39), 205, 216 

Rice, 126, 203 

Rieger, Fr. Ladislav, xi 

Rif‘at, 2, 17, 18, 61, 65, 145—147, 162, 164, 166, 
182, 190, 210, 2389 

Riglet al-Hrak (a6), 11 

Ar-Rigm (j8), 204, 325, 326 

Rigm al-Fased (j8), 202, 206 

Rigm al-Fazh (d2—3), 78, 81 

Riha (f3), 100 

Rihan (c3), 62 

Ar-Rihijjat, 99 

Ar-Rijad, 23 

Rijas, Abu (f8), 101, 102 

Ar-Rilan (e3), 96 

Rimt (Haloxylon articulatum, Cav.; a large 
bush with needle-shaped leaves and spikes 
of small whitish flowers; see Fig. 26), 62, 
81; 83, 91, 100, 10357104, 1245129, 1495-190, 
PLOWS COOLS 

Ris, Abu (j5), 132 

Ris, Abu, the family, 261 

Ar-RiSe (h2), 116, 117; (NA m—n6), 32 

Rkébe, Ummu (h8), 202 

Ar-Rkejb (24), 149 

Rkejbe, Ammu (d4), 41 

Rkejbe, Ammu, 184 

Rkejbe, Ummu (h5), 156 

Ar-Rkejk (or ar-Rkejjek) (h7), 172, 191, 194, 195 

Al-Rlale (m12) 

Rmam, Ummu (i10), 226 

Al-Rmejjem (i7), 195; (h7), 172 

Rmejle, Abu (d4), 47, 68 

Rmejt, Ummu (k6), 1386 

Ar-Rmémijje (h9—10), 223 

Ar-Rmitt, 211 

Al-Rnejm, ZelS (NA q—r9), 26 

Al-Rnejmat, 235 

Road of the Nomads, 284 

Robbery, 11, 18, 21, 51, 61, 104, 163, 175, 231; 
attack and resistance, 117; attempt, 150; 
of pilgrims, 160; stones rolled down on 
robbers, 93 

Rocks inhabited by spirits, 97, 99. See also 
Boulders 

Rodents, 223 

Ar-Rokob (¢4), 49; (112) 

Roman Empire, 306 


566 


Roman road, 53, 58, 64—66 

Romans, 259, 299, 306, 310 

Rorobin (19—10), 212 

al-Rorr, 47 

Al-Roson (e3), 76; (k8—9), 208, 211 

Rost, Paul, 288, 339 

Rowz al-‘Abd (i4), 182 

Rowze Nu‘mi, 90 

R6z at-Tleje (£8), 97 

Ar-RSsid, 2385 

Rtejmat, Ammu (h9), 226, 229; (h8—9), 202 

Rtejmat, Se‘iban abu (c5), 14, 39 

Rtejmat, Umm (or Ammu) (h6), 176 

Rubata (k9), 208, 211 

Rubejje. See Hlejj al-Rbejje 

Ar-Ruhba, 211 

Ar-Ruhbi. See Hzejb ar-Ruhbi 

Ruhejbe, 160 

Ruinswep l-—oo, ose) | elamomad pps 850% 
Hawra, 108; al-Homejma, 59; al-Kena’, 188; 
al-Malha, 118, 119; Rwafa, 183, 185, 186, 
187; Umm at-Telage, 48, 49 

Rukuba, Umm (NA 1—m6), 32 

Ar-Rumaza (i7), 199 

Rumejs, Ammu (k8), 182, 134, 206 

Ar-Rumma’, 316 

Rumman, Abu (f2—8) 

Rurab (k6); (£3), 96; (16—7), 135 

Ruraba (e3), 76 

Al-Ruraba (h4), 144 

Al-Rurajje (2), 96 

Al-Rurtr (h4), 149, 151 

Ar-Rusafa (110), 212 

Rite (Salsola lancifolia, Boiss.; perennial 
with small prickly leaves and small pinkish 
flowers), 35 

Ruzuman, Abu (d3), 88 

Rwafa, 185, 289 

Rwéafa (i6), 164, 171, 188—189, 258, 289, 291, 
BUA olde ol oem lane os 

Ar-Rwajat, 235 

Ar-Rwala, 12, 24, 155, 282 

Ar-Rwé‘at, 235 

Ar-Rwéha (d8), 83; (h9), 226 

Ar-Rwejgide (a5), 9, 11 

Al-Rwejr (a7), 11 

Rwejs ad-Dukkane (b3), 50, 55 

Rwejsat al-Metaha (f8) 

Rwejsat, Ammu (b3), 55 

Rwejsét umm Raza (c4), 36, 39, 438, 44 

Rwejt (k5) 

Ar-Rwejt (j6), 136 

Ar-Rwékbin, 79 

Rwél al-Araneb (15), 184 

Al-Rwérat (i10), 224 

Rwésat al-Halde, 67 

Rwésde (j9), 222 

Rwésed al-‘Atsan (a5), 11 

RweéSed ar-Rawjan (a5), 11 

Ar-Rwétje (d6), 33 

Ar-Rzéha (i9) 

Rzéhan, Bir (j8), 205 

Al-Rzej (h8), 221, 233 

Rzej, Ammu (i6), 172, 192 

Rzejje, Ammu (h9), 160, 226 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Rzejlat, Abu (g5), 149; (g6) 
Rzim, Ummu (or Ammu) (g4—5); 
(g4), 149 


S. Abbreviation for Seib. See proper name 


As-Sa‘ad (k8—9), 132, 206, 208 
Sa‘ada’-l-Barsa’ (e7), 32, 33 
Sa‘ada’-l-Hamra’ (d7), 32, 33 
Sa‘af (16), 72,132, 211, 257, 323, 326 
A&-Sa‘af (17) 

A&S-Sa‘al (£3), 100 

Sa‘ar, N. abu (i5), 135 
A&S-Sa‘ara (h5), 156 

Sa‘arat al-‘EfaS (h5), 156 
Saba’, 288, 289, 293—296 
As-Saba‘, Bir, 266 

Sabaean territory, 310 


Sabaeans, 217, 2438, 247, 251, 288, 289, 295, 310 


Saban, 296 

Sabet (d3), 74, 79 

Sabha Sorar, 16 

As-Sabha (e6), 16, 33, 43; (j4), 182, 303 
Sacrifices, 38, 155, 214 

Sa‘d, Beni, 114, 319, 320 
As-Sadaka (b4), 53, 64, 65, 264, 271 
Sa‘dallah, 114 

Sadr (i4), 183; 49 

As-Sadr (k11), 185, 221, 222 
Sadr Hawda, 318, 319 

Sa‘éda (k10), 215 

As-Sa‘édat, 235 

Sa‘ede (k10), 215 

As-Sa‘ejd (d—e5), 41 
Sa‘ejdanijjin, 197, 235 
As-Sa‘ejdat. See as-Sa‘idat 
Safa, Umm (h9), 202, 226 
As-Safi, 330 

As-Safra (i4), 182, 324; (15), 183 
Safra’-l-Bed‘, 105, 106 

Safwan (h4), 123 

Sagarat al-‘Arajes (j7), 134 
Sagarat Mat‘ama (4), 149 
As-Sahab (e—f3), 78, 96 

Sahab at-Tabak. See at-Tabak 
Sahan, Ammu (e4), 75 

Sahbat at-Twejs (19), 132 
As-Sahhara (15), 135 

Sahjet ad-Dirri (e2—3), 91 
Sahjet al-Ma‘‘azi (d2—38, e3), 78, 91 
Sahl al-Matran, 301 

Sahr, Beni, 12—15, 28, 36, 128 
Sahta (h3) 

AS-Sahta (j5), 135 

Sa‘id, Twejjel (110), 224, 318 
As-Sa‘id, 318 

As-Sa‘idat, S. (i5), 181, 182 
Sa‘ide, al-Welijje, 99 

AS-Sajeb (210) 

As-Sak (m11) 

A&-Sakka (f2), 96 

As-Sala’, Ras (i8), 125, 322, 323 
Salab al-‘Arejf, 95 

As-Saladeh (e4—5), 41 

Saladin, 49 

Salaka (c4), 47, 65 


(19), 226; 


INDEX 


Salama, Abu (k5), 134, 300 

Salamat, 315 

Salamja (NA c6), 21, 22 

Sa‘lan, Eben, 165 

As-Salasel, 134 

Saleh, 291, 300, 301, 329; his camel, 220 

Salem, the clerk of Harb eben ‘Atijje in 
Tebtk, 164—167, 169, 171, 172, 187, 188 

Salem, the father of guide Sliman, 104 

Salem, the negro of ‘Awde abu Tajeh, 9, 12 

Salem, our guide of the Mesa‘id tribe, 109 
Tay, Take, aks 

Salem al-Wakli, 235 

Salem eben Hammad eben GAd, 65, 66, 68, 
69, 73, 74, 80, 87 

Salem eben Makbial eben Gad, 79 

Salem eben Sakr, 235 

Salil (h6), 176 

Salit ibn ‘Abdallah ibn ‘Abbas, 60 

As-Sallahat, 4 

As-Sallamat, 69 

As-Sallamin, 69 

Salma (NA r15), 257, 300 

As-Salmi (k5), 182 

Salsola lancifolia, Boiss. See Rite 

Salt Sea, 258, 265 

Salt, Valley of, 253 

Salam (h10), 2238, 226, 317 

Saluwawels6)selot mel oom LoGmons 

Salydo, 302, 303 

As-Samake (i8), 202 

Samamse, 79 

Samaria, 246, 291, 2938, 297 

AS-Samijje (b4), 4 

Sammar, 14, 23, 28, 37, 165, 175, 217, 226, 236, 
Domo 

As-Samra (d5), 41 

Samra’ Taman (f—g3), 103, 126 

Samsan, 69, 70, 79 

Samuel, Books of, 261, 277 

Sam‘il (d3), 68 

Samur (thorny perennial), 257 

As-Sanamejn, 328 

Sanctuary at Rwafa, 185 

Sand clouds, 317 

Sand drifts, 157, 160 

Sand storm, 159 

Sandstone, 219 

As-Sane® (k7), 182, 134, 136, 206 

Sanwa’, 220 

Sar, Abu (i4) 

AS-Sar (i4—5, j5), 188, 185, 137, 312, 322, 324 

A3-Sara, 324 

A&S-Sara’, 247 

Sarab (k7), 134, 135, 187, 211, 256, 280, 
281, 322 

A&-Sarab, 134 

As-Sarabit (d3), 68 

As-Sarabit, Umm (h3—4), 188, 135, 141 

Saracen desert, 255, 279 

Saraceni, 311 

Saracens, 306—308 

A&-Saraf (f3), 97, 324, 325 

Saraf al-Ba‘l, 97, 322, 323 

Saraf (or Srejf) at-Ta‘am (h9), 228 


367 


Sarafe Beni ‘Atijje, 97, 325 

Sarak al-Ba‘l, 97 

Saraka, 311 

Sarakenoi, 311, 312 

Sa‘rdn (Suaeda, Forsk.; shrub with prickly 
leaves and small greenish flowers), 192 

A&-Sararat, 7, 12—16, 19, 22, 26, 128 

Sarawa, 133 

As-Sarawil (i6), 184 

Sarawil, Abu (a6), 11 

Sarawra, 316, 319, 329 

Sarb, 211 

Sarba’, 134 

Sarbat Amrar (d38), 73, 76 

Sarbtat, Nakb umm (i5) 

Sardan (d4), 71, 75 

As-Sardan (d—e4), 41, 68, 72, 75 

Sargon II, 246, 288, 291, 298, 311 

Sarikakis, Mr., 161, 237, 238 

As-Sarira (Ma‘an), 4 

Sarma (h3), 118, 121, 128, 129, 132, 186, 137, 
1395 NAIee303 anol (nO cosno co 

AS-Sarma (f2), 101; (h3), 129—133, 135, 322, 324 

Sarmada (NA m5—6), 32 

Sarora’. See Birka’ Saroéra’ 

Sarr, 33, 256, 320, 321 

Sarraceni, 310 

Shishi, Be 

A8-Sati (h4), 123, 135 

Satnet umm Raza (b5), 11 

As-Sa‘td, 235 

Sa‘ad eben RaSsid, 22, 154 

Saul, 260, 261 

Sawda’ Hamde. See Sowda’ Hamde 

Sawd al-Lehtd (i6), 137 

Sawra (i3—4) 

Sawra, Abu (j7—8), 198, 201, 202 

Sawra, Ammu (c4), 49, 52 

Saza, 316 

As-Sbah (d4), 47, 68; (j8), 204, 205 

As-Sbawi (j9), 205 

Sbejh, 168, 165, 169, 171—175, 178—183, 185, 
188, 190—194; altercation with Mutallek, 174 

Sbejhuwat (i9), 226 

Sbejlat (23), 106 

As-Shbejta, 261 

As-Sbejti (h2), 117 

A8S-Sbérem (k5), 132 

Sbn. Abbreviation for Se‘iban, plural of Se‘ib 

As-Sbutt, 169, 178, 235, 236 

Scarecrow, 231 

Scenitae, 310 

Scenitan Arabs, 307 

Schrader, Eberhard, 246, 290, 291, 340 

Scorzonera Musili, Vel. See Mti 

Sdad, Abu (h5), 150, 154 

Sdad, Ammu (d5), 41 

Sdejjed (i—j6), 136 

Sdejjed Razi (d6, e6—7), 33 

Sdejjid (b4), 52 

As-Sdejr (£3), 97, 101 

Sdér (f5) 43, 

As-Sdér (i8), 196 

as-Sdéra, 72, 73 

Sdéra, Abu (h9—10), 226, 228 


568 


Sdi* (19), 212 

Sea water, 127 

A8-Se‘afe (d3) 

Se‘ata (e6), 33, 35 

Seba’ (Sheba), 217, 243, 287, 288 

Sebib (b3), 55 

A8S-Sebibi (c3), 58 

As-Sedara (e3), 73, 79, 95 

A8-Sedih (g3), 103, 113, 117, 121 

A&-Sedijje, Bir (b5), 12, 42 

As-Se‘éd, ‘A. (£3), 97, 99 

As-Se‘ede (h38—4), 122 

Seetzen, U.J., 321, 340 

A&-Sefa’, 180 

As-Sefi (h6), 176 

As-Sehem (f5), 438 

Se‘ib (pl. Se‘iban). See proper name 

Se‘ir, 66, 244—248, 250, 252—255, 259, 262—265, 
270—272, 275, 276, 278, 287, 293, 296—298 

Sejal (acacia with flat crown), 79, 80, 88, 90, 
Gil Os. A, RE ey PAD. Tiel. a, ely ally 

As-Sejale (e3), 96 

A8-Sejban (j7), 201, 208, 232, 233 

Sejfaddawle, 317 

A&-Sejh ‘Abdallah, 136 

Sejh al-Ksejr (e3), 95; (£8), 97 

A8-Sejh Hméd (h1), 117 

A8-Sejh Hmid (e2—3), 94 

Sejhig, Umm (e3), 95 

As-Sejjer (h6), 173, 178 

Sejker (c3), 50, 62 

Sekk al-‘Abd (16) 

AS-Sekk, 214 

As-Sel® (19), 132, 212 

Sela’ (i—j3), 303 

Selémijjin, 129 

Self (g3), 1038 

Selim (h6), 176 

Selim, Beni, 43, 320 

Sella, Abu (g10) 

A8S-Sellal (111) 

A8S-Sellale (d3), 83 

Sellale, Umm (e5), 48 

A8S-Selil (h6), 193 

Sem, 293 

As-Sem* (i7—8), 201 

Semh (Mesembryanthemum Forskahlei, 
Hochst.; Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum, 
L.; low, sappy annual with green, fleshy 
leaves and small green flowers), 15, 35, 45, 
203. See also Da‘da‘ 

Semne, 205 

As-Semne (b4); (j8—9), 205 

A8-Semrah (f3), 99, 101 

As-Sen‘, Nakb (¢5), 41 

Senader, Abu (j5), 135 

Senafir (i2), 124, 305 

Senne (species of Cassia), 324 

Septuagint, 249, 251, 252, 288, 289, 296 

Sepulchers at Madian, 113, 114, 115, 116 

A&S-Sera’ (b4—c4—5), 2, 6, 9, 10, 37—39, 41, 
44, 45, 47—49, 51—53, 55, 58, 60, 61, 65, 71, 
12, 15, 149, “155, 236, 245; 4246, 248, 252, 
254—256, 258, 259, 2638, 270, 272, 279, 280, 
286, 287, 294, 296, 311, 315, 320 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


A8-Seraf (£3), 97, 322—825 

A8-Seri‘a, 77 

Serif 2, 17, 27, 39, 45, 60, 62, 66, 73, 78, 88, 97, 
TT; LAS 1b 1 173,91 sl 1 sb,2198 2 lows LogeeZp, 
229, 230—232, 238, 239 

Seriha, Abu (i4), 182 

Serira, Abu (j4), 132 

Serire, Abu (j4) 

A3-Serki (e3) 

A8-Serkijje, 307, 311 

A&-Serm, 324 

Serm al-Harr (j4) 

Serm al-Hirke. See al-Hirke, S. 

Serm Dabba (h1—2), 116 

Serm Mugawwan (hl), 117 

A3-Sezw (c3) 

As-Sfejhe (e3), 75, 79 

Shaba’ Gamra (k7—l7—8), 136, 137 

As-Sham (j8—9), 205 

As-Shama’, 208, 210, 211 

Sheba, 217. See also Seba’ 

Sheep, 66, 141 

Sheikh Hmid. See A&S-Sejh Hmiad 

As-Shejb (110—11), 215 

Shejb al-Araneb, 69 

Shejb al-Bam (19), 132, 136, 212 

A8-Shejba (a5), 11 

Shejjer (18), 134 

As-Shejm (m12) 

As-Shejme, 184 

Shellfish, 91 

Shepherds, 149, 178 

Sherbet, 230 

Shots, 182, 230, 238 

Shrines, 55, 94 

As-Siéé (k11) 

Sickness, 84, 127 

Sidd (£38), 97 

As-Sidd (h5), 180 

Sidd al-Kah (e5), 41 

Sidd, Ammu, 88 

Siddim, 259, 262, 263, 275 

Sidenoi, 311 

A8S-Sidijje (b5), 11, 12, 15, 48 

A3-Sidijje, Bir. See a&-Sedijje 

Sidr (species of Acacia with long lean boughs), 
Gy, 7G, ZAly 

As-Sidr (19), 212 

Sidre (k—j5), 132 

Sidre, Umm, 89 

Signet rings, 220 

Sih (a kind of wormwood; see Fig.19), 38, 56, 
68, 145, 198, 201 

As-Sih, 62 

Silla (medium high thorny shrub), 62, 68 

Sihbet ar-Re&é* (110), 212 

Sihbet at-Tefihe (110), 212 

Sihon, 283 

Sijale, Umm (i4), 133 

As-Sik (h4), 123, 132, 133, 144, 145, 147 

As-Sikara (19), 212 

Sikh (g3), 106, 113 

As-Sikijje (£2), 96 

A8S-Sikik (h5), 150, 154 

Sikk al-“Aziz, 220 


INDEX 


Sikk Tara, 318 

As-Sikke, 52 

A8-Sikri (h5), 180 

Sik Wadi Masa, 70 

As-Silmi (f3), 95 

Silsil, 134 

Simeon, men of, 245—247, 253 

Simeonites, 262 

Sin, 268, 269, 297 

Sin, wilderness of, 2638, 265, 271, 278 

Sinai, Mount, 255, 267—270, 278, 296—298 

Sinai, Peninsula of, 191, 244, 257, 261, 267, 
268, 274, 281, 282, 285, 290 

Sinan, 204, 314 

Sinar, 204, 318, 314 

As-Sinfe (i9), 226 

Sirhan, depression of (j7—k8—19), 18—15, 25, 
SyAq EOS alays, lice osu PAY! 

Sirhan, the clan, 36 

As-Sirr (£8) 

As-Sirrin, 257 

A&-Sirt (j7), 133, 203 

Sitar, 49, 80, 256 

Sittim, 283 

Sjejle, Abu (c3), 50, 65, 66; (d3), 69 

Sjejle, Ammu (i4), 132 

As-Sjéle, Umm (h3), 124 

AS-Ska‘a (g6), 150; (g—h6), 176 

Skaka, Ammu (i4), 133 

Ské‘ijje (i8), 202 

A3-Skék (d4—5), 41 

Skenitai, 311 

AS-Skik (j5), 132, 326 

As-Sktr (k9), 216 

As-Sktr, the clan, 69 

Slaves, liberated, 94 

Slej* (k9), 2138, 214 

As-Slejbe (112) 

Slejlat, Abu (j—k9), 216 

Slejmat, 235 

As-Slejsel (i—j6), 184; (j5—6), 135 

Sliman, the robber guide, 104, 105, 109, 112 

Sliman eben Refade, 128, 208, 210 

Smallpox, 181, 187, 192 

AS-Smejhta (k9—10), 211, 216 

Smejr as-Sebihi (d3), 69 

Smejr Gaber (i4), 132 

A8S-Smejsijje (d3), 89 

Smokers, 100 

Sna‘* Zaher (c4), 43, 44 

Snake bite, 156 

Snakes, 74, 185 

Snan, Abu (j7), 136, 204 

As-Snanijje (j—k8), 206 

As-Snejd‘e, 99 

As-Snejwijje (j4), 132, 136 

Soaka, 135, 300, 313 

Sokb al-‘Agtz (k11), 220, 221, 330 

As-Sokk (g2), 103 

As-Sokk, S. (g2), 103 

Solanum melongena. See Bétingan 

Soldiers, 84, 130; railway guard, 228; sick- 
ness, 127 

Solomon, 245, 262, 273, 274 

Somaliland, 287 


369 


Sé6man. See Tel‘et S6man 

A8-Sémeri (a7) 

As-Soér (c3), 50, 62 

Sor, Abu (h6), 176 

sorar, 125, 134; 2045 257-219.) ole 

Sorar, Habari (e5—6), 41, 43 

Sorar, Kal'a (d5);, 323788, 38, 69s 41, 256; a21, 
BLOSO LOO Los SOL 

Sorr, 326, 327 

Sort‘, 3826 

AS-Sowbak, 61, 273 

Sowda’ Hamde (i7), 197 

Sowr, Abu. See Sor, Abu 

Sowsa (f3), 100 

as-Sowt (j7—8), 1382, 205 

Spelling, xi 

Spirits, 199; Bedouin man of vision, 215; rock- 
inhabiting, 97, 99; tree-inhabiting, 10, 76 

Sprenger, A., 259, 340 

Springs, 53, 54; miraculous spring ‘Azzam, 96; 
Tebak, 167 

Squinting guide, 118 

As-Srajjed (k11), 221, 222 

A&S-Srejf (£3), 96; (i10), 224 

Srejf ab-al-Biz (i7), 197 

Srejf abu Ralajin, 51 

Srejf al-Hatab (i4—5), 135 

Srejf al-Maktale (£3), 95, 96 

Srejf at-Ta‘am. See Saraf at-Ta‘am 

Srejh (e2—8) 

Srejh (d2), 89; (d3) 

A8S-Srejh (e2), 95 

A3-Srejh (j5), 132 

Srejm (f3), 96 

As-Srtm (18), 134 

As-Srutrijjin, 69 

Stan, Ammu (g4), 149 

A3-Star, Nakb and ruins (b—c4), 49, 52, 66, 
DAD RAOA EA lee ie 

Starving warriors, 204 

Statues of deities, 97 

Stephen of Byzantium, 48, 59, 135, 246, 290, 
300, 311, 340 

Stones, piles as a memorial, 204; piles to avert 
evil spirit, 199; for signet rings, 220 

Strabo, 38, 299, 304, 305, 310, 340 

Suaeda, Sp. See Sa‘ran 

Siiah, 251, 287, 293 

A3S-Subejée (c5—6), 15; (j7), 134 

Subhan, Eben, 154, 155 

Std ar-Raraj (k9—110) 

Sadan, 287 

Su‘ejb, 113, 279—282, 301, 319 

Suelleni, 310 

Suez Canal, 69 

Suez, Gulf of, 305, 309 

Suez, Sea of, 324 

As-Stk. See Tlé‘et as-Sak 

As-Stk, Twejjel (k6) 

Sukabya, 302, 303 

As-Sukja’, 211 

Sukja’ Jazid, 211 

Sukja’-l-Gazl, 211 

Sukk al-‘Agidz, 325, 326, 330 

A3-Sukka (e3), 96 





O70 


As-Sukkari, 125 

Sukkot, 252 

As-Sulba (k8), 206 

Suleiman, Sultan, 48, 218, 230, 248, 320, 329 

Sulejman ibn ‘Abdalmalek, 60, 125 

Sultan, 170 

As-Sultani, Bir (k5), 136 

As-Sultani, Darb, 52 

As-Sultanijje (£2); (£8), 96, 97 

Sumna, 205 

As-Sunbuk, 317 

AS-Sunnarijje (b8), 50, 55 

Sunrise, 34, 56, 122 

Sunset, 10, 153 

Supplies, 161 

Sar, 261, 265—267 

As-Surr (i4), 180, 182, 188, 185—137 

SuSwa, Abu (i2), 124 

Swak (k7), 134, 135, 300, 313 

Swds (a high plant similar to the kalh), 68 

Swébet (d3), 74 

Swéfle, 227, 235 

As-Swéha (i4) 

As-Swéhel (f2), 96 

as-Swéhet (b7), 11, 31, 32 

Swejd an-Niswan (k8—9), 205, 214 

As-Swejda, 211 

As-Swejwin (or as-Swéwin) (i5), 133, 181 

Swelhin, 69 

Swémat (b4), 52 

Swémre (b4), 53 

Swér (i4), 132 

As-Swér (h8), 128, 325 

Swér, Abu, 143 

As-Swérhijjin, 235 

As-Swéwine (j—k11), 219, 220 

Syria, 15, 26, 33, 38, 48, 44, 48, 61, 64, 72, 80, 
84, 8b, 97, 125; 135, 136, 160, 204;°205, 218, 
221, 248, 245, 247, 249-251, 255, 256, 258, 
274, 280, 281, 285, 287, 288, 291, 293, 300, 
301, 807, 3809—311, 314—317, 319, 321, 322, 
326, 328; road to, 64, 219, 299 

Syrian ‘Akaba, 39 


Taba, Ajn, 84 

At-Tabak (e3), 94, 326 
Tabakat Kalha (c¢3), 50, 62 
At-Tabari, 134, 279, 300, 321, 326, 340 
At-Tabarijje, 71 

Tabeni, 310 

Tab‘éra, 270 

Taberijja (b5), 10, 48 
Tabilijjat, 33 

Taboca Coromanis, 318 
Taboca Romanis, 318 
Tabula Peutingeriana, 60, 64, 66, 340 
Tadra (k9), 214—216 
At-Taf, 220, 329, 330 
At-Taff (f5—6), 150 
At-Taff, S. (f—g6) 
At-Tafha (e4), 76 
At-Tafile, 156 

Tag al-Mulak Bari, 49 
At-Tahata, 4 

Taima, 296 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Taiman, 250, 296 

At-Taje (e7), 32, 33 

Tajj, 43, 228, 257, 273, 311, 312 

Tajjebt Ism (g2), 96, 101 

At-Tak, 220, 330 

Taka, Abu (k11), 220, 330 

Takar, Abu (h4), 133, 141 

Talal eben Fajez, 36 

Tal‘at Bey, 1 

Talba (17), 1385 

Talh (Acacia with dense crown and yellow 
scented flowers; see Fig. 84), 12, 15, 16, 36, 
88,5 74,0115, LeU) cLoOseLoUm 20D seal omeltamcos 
224, 42205) 220 coos wet 

Tamarix hampeana, Boiss. See Tarfa 

Tamarix nilotica, Ehrnb. See Tarfa 

Tamarix verrucosa, Vel. See Tarfa 

Tamim ibn Aws ibn Harege ad-Darij, 125 

At-Tamlat (c6), 33 

At-Tamri (f5), 43 

Mamud,-AS, 102 Lose 10D, cls) 20 eo loseec ols 
292, 300, 301, 330 

Tamudi, 291, 293, 295, 311 

Tana’, 136 

At-Tanafijje, 137 

Tanazeb, Abu-t- (i—j5), 133 

Taran, 255, 281, 302, 304, 306, 309 

Tarbe (k10), 215 

Tarfa (Tamarix hampeana, Boiss; Tamarix 
nilotica, Ehrnb. var. Tamarix verrucosa, 
Vel.), 106, 107, 126, 233 

At-Tarfa (e3), 76 

Tarfa’, Abu (b5), 10, 17; (i8), 202 

At-Tarfaje (k9), 216 

At-Tarif (b8—4), 56 

Tarshish, 289 

Tasan (b4), 52, 53 

Taveni, 251, 310, 311 

At-Tawabte, 4 

At-Tawajhe, 7 

Tawane, 251 

At-Tawar (i5), 1383 

At-Tawtahijje (e2), 95 

Tax collector, 8 

Taxes, 114, 150; on date palms, 218 

Tbhejk, Abu (h5), 150, 156, 157 

At-Tbét (£3), 96 

Tea, 17 

At-Tebahher (e5), 43 

Tebak (27), 1, 25—27, 33, 48, 48, 61, 114, 125, 
DWAtin, BUA ley, TRY GIB es alee ali ade, 
159—174, 180, 188, 189, 196, 199, 201, 213, 
214, 218, 221, 225—227, 229, 230, 232—234, 
236—239, 256, 257, 279—281, 300, 308, 312, 
314, 316—321, 326—329, 331; departure from 
on June 22, 171; description, 167; order to 
return to, 225; raiders at, 234; railway 
station, 237; return to, 284; sojourn at, 161 

Tebak, Wadi, 33 

At-Tebtkijje (road), 321, 326, 328 

At-Tefihe (110), 212, 217 

At-Tefile, 252, 293 

Tejma (NA q9), 12, 24, 26, 29, 48, 94, 137, 154, 
Too mAGDsc iA eI7 bs Allg lonee lsielo: cpa eatee 
280, 288—291, 298, 296, 300, 313, 314, 327, 328 


At-Telage, S. (c4), 47 
At-Telage, Umm (c4), 48, 49 
Telam, 261 

Telegrams sent from Tebak, 171 
Telegraph line, 62 

Telegraph poles, 66 

Tel‘et al-Fwazle (i9), 226, 228 
Tel‘et az-Zih (i9), 226 

Tel‘et Séman (i8), 202 


Tel‘et umm Tina (h8—9), 202, 226 


Tell al-Marma (b4—5) 
Tell aS-Sahm, (d5) 
Téma, 217, 274, 288, 294, 296 


INDEX yal 


Timanei, 251 

Tin, Ammu-t- (e3), 96 

Tina, Kal‘at ammu (h9) 

Tina, Umm, See Tel‘et umm Tina 
Tine, Abu (k6), 136 

Tine, G. abu (k7), 132, 206 
inane ))pl24ee sO2s obs o0G 
Tiran, Abu (k5), 132 

Tireb (f2), 96, 100 

Tirjam, 133 

At-Tkékat, 129 

At-Tlah (g8), 117; (59), 205, 214 
Tlé‘et as-Sak (h9), 202 


Temajel an-Nezib (or Nekib) (j8), 205, 207 At-Tleje. See Réz at-Tleje 


Teman, 250, 252 


Tlejh (36) 


Téman, 5, 217, 249—252, 264, 278, 294, 311 At-Tlejh (k6), 134 


At-Temile (g2), 103 
At-Temile, S. (g2) 
Temile, Ammu, 266 


Temilet abu Nmar (h5—6), 179, 197, 226 


Temilt ar-Radhe (h6), 137, 177 
Temilt at-Trt (h9), 226 
Tena’, 257 

Tenijje, Abu, 37 

Tenijjet al-Medrari, 320 
Tenijjet Medran, 318 

Tents, 16, 151 

At-Terabin, 53, 286 


Tlejha, Abu (a6), 11, 15 

Tlejha, Ammu (d4—5), 41 

At-Tlejtuwat (c6), 35 

At-Tléte (¢4), 149 

Tmad, 73 

At-Tmad, 72, 73 

marr (16) seelocwel oo LO Le l SAmmeL isin (0) 
134, 135 

Tméd Rabi‘a (NA m6), 32 

At-Tmejjem (i6), 174 

Tmejmijje (e3) 

At-Tmejmijje (e2), 95; (g3), 108 


Terebinth (a big tree with red fruits), 16 At-Tnejnir (e3), 95, 326 
Terim (i4), 1380, 132, 188, 185—187, 308, 312 Toali, 310 


At-Tfejhwat (d3), 71 
Thabaeni, 310 
Thabaucha, 312 
Thaditai, 311, 312 
Thaiitai, 311 

Thaima, 313 

Thamuda, 291, 311 
Thamudaei, 300, 310, 311 
Thamudeni, 291 


Tobok, Abu (i9), 226 

Tombs, 109. See also Burial places 

Tonzob (a tree-like bush with flexible boughs 
and green oval leaves), 124, 129 

Tor, Abu (h10), 223 

Tor “Antar (d3), 72 

Tor Endi (b4) 

Tor Hamde (k9), 214, 215 

At-Torra (i9—10), 226 


Thamudenoi, 185, 258, 291, 292, 302—804, 312 Tortoise, 52 


Thamudenon ethnos, 291, 312 
Thamudi, 292 

Thamydenoi, 291, 311 
Thamyditai, 291, 311, 312 
Thapaua, 312, 318 
Thapaucha, 312, 318 
Theophanes, 307, 340 
Thevenot, Jean de, 325, 340 
At-Thi (i5), 181 

Thiman, 311 

Thimaneans, 310, 311 
Thoana, 311 
Thomasberger, Rudolf, 1, 2 
Thornia, 311 

Tibb, Umm (h6), 172, 174 
Tiberias, 71 

Tiberias, Lake of, 262 
Tidnek (k10), 216 


Tiglath Pileser IV, 287, 288, 290, 291 


Tih beni Isra7*il, 273, 316, 317 


Totaca, 310 

Towers, circular, 197, 199; ruined, 25. See also 
Watchtowers 

Towr (or Tor) al-Wusem (i4—5), 135 

Towr, Abu. See Tor, Abu 

Trab, Ammu (b5), 3 

Trade, Arabian, 2438 

Trade routes, 136 

Traders, 125, 218 

Transliteration, xi, xii 

Transport routes, 5, 254 

Trar al-Awzam (f6), 150 

Travelers, extortion trom, 164, 166, 170 

Treachery, 208 

Trees as abodes of spirits, 10, 76 

Trejbin, S. (¢3), 50 

Trejf al-Bawwal (f—gs3), 102, 105 

Trejf al-BGm (h—i6), 172, 192 

At-Trejfi, 99 

At-Tréra (i9—10) 


At-Tihama (j—k6, k7), 73, 79, 90, 180, 191, 205 Trieste, 1 


At-Tihama, 135, 136 
At-Tijaha, 286 
At-Till (d3), 67 
Timaneans, 251 


Trigonella hamosa, L. See Nefel 
Trigonella monantha, CAM. See Nefel 
Trigonella stellata, Forsk. See Nefel 
At-Tubejk (or Tubejz), 28, 204 


o12 


Tubejk (or Tubejz) al-“Afar (NA m5—6), 13, 
20,00 Loe. 0 

Tubejk (or Tubejz) al-Hamar (NA m7), 18, 
26, 82 

Tubejlijjat, 33, 48, 329 

Tudmor (NA ¢c8), 317 

At-Tilijje (i8), 202 

Timan, 2; lijeleso21 0G, Obs somo 1os1 055 uL0as 
112) 146514791495 162,01 64 GOseLOu whom Los. 
eet, NO. PANE AA), PRP RD, Pere. Mate OEY) 

Tur, 24 

At-Tir, 136, 281 

Tar Ba‘al, 245 

Turban G4)jel33 

Turban, Abu (h4), 1338, 148 

Turban ibn Farrag, 230 

Turban, S. (¢3) 

At-Tarijja (k5) 

Turk, 94 

At-Turkan (e2) 

Turki, Bir, 52 

Turkish Government, 1, 69, 84; ‘Afnan on, 
129; headquarters, 4; order to return to 
Tebuk, 225; peace-making among the tribes, 
14; representative at Tebtk, 161; resistance 
to, 7, 8; treatment of tribes, 20 

At-Turra, 53 

Turrah, Abu (c3), 65 

Tu‘ts, Ammu (h9), 226 

At-Twane, 5, 251, 252, 264, 271, 311 

At-Twejje (k8), 206 

At-Twejjek (i4), 132 

Twejjel. See proper name 

At-Twejme (i6), 134 

At-Twejmer, 192 

At-Twejrijje (j8), 205, 207 

Twejs, the singer, 211 

Twéle® al-Hozri, 204 

At-Twérén (b5), 11; (i5—6), 180 

Twilat Mu‘ammar (c3—4) 

Twil Shak (k4), 38, 48 

Tyre, 217, 289, 294 


Uba’, 117 

“Ubajd ibn Jasir ibn Numajr, 114, 115 

Udenoi, 311 

“Udra, Beni, 134, 135, 218, 222, 228, 315—317, 
319 

Al-Uhajder, 224, 230, 232, 329—331 

Al-Uhajder, Nakb, 230, 331 

Uhejmer (b—c3), 50 

“Ujan al-Kasab, 323—326 

Umejja, Beni, 326 

Umm. See main part of proper name 

Ummu. See main part of proper name 

Unawell e225 ole 

Una’, ‘Ajn, 124,°425, 312 

Underground galleries, 25 

Unna’, 125 

SUradverleeis 

Uranius, 59, 291, 311, 340 

“Urf, Umm. See ‘Orf, Umm 

“Urtk, Abu (e3), 75, 76 

‘Us, 5, 248, 249, 251, 252, 293 

Usejheb, 72, 73 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


‘Utaf, 257 

Al-‘Uttin, 7 

Al-‘Uwajnid, 137, 257, 281 

Al-“Uwejned (15); (15—6), 137, 211, 256, 257, 
28171303 BZ OL4 

Al-‘Uwéker (h5), 156 

Uzziah, King, 244, 245, 274 


Vapors, 77, 122, 124 

Varthema, Ludovico di, 340 

Vegetables, 85 

Vegetation, 228 

Velenovsky, J., 340 

Vienna, 1 

Voleanic regions, 156, 215, 216, 218, 219, 294, 
298; holy voleano of al-Bedr, 215 

Vultures, 156 


W. Abbreviation for Wadi. See proper name 

Wa‘al, Amm (i6), 172, 184 

Wat‘ar (k6) 

Wabradn, 2238 

Al-Wabri (i4), 135 

Al-Wabri, Darb (15) 

Al-Wabse, 211 

Wad‘a, 11 

Wad‘at al-Hamra’ (b7), 11, 31 

Wad‘at aS-Shaba’, 11 

Wadi. See proper name 

Wahadan (b4), 52 

Al-WahSe, 211 

Wajel, Banu, 114, 135 

Wajla, 125, 279 

Al-Wakedi, 114, 300, 318, 315, 340 

Al-Wakzan (i4), 132 

Al-Walid ibn ‘Abdalmalek, 60, 211, 326, 327 

Al-Waraka (d3) 

Al-Waraka, Ras (d3), 71—74 

Al-WaAset (e3), 96 

Al-Watar (i7), 197—199, 232 

Watchtowers, 38; al-Batra, 45, 47; al-Brejg, 
89, 90 

Water, 15; brackish, 93; digging for, 149; for 
drinking, 128; fear of, 127; pleasant to pil- 
grims, 230 

Waterecourses, 24 

Al-Wdej. See al-Wudej 

Wdej ‘Amri, 176 

Al-Wegh, 128, 186, 208, 208, 211, 217, 299, 322 

Al-Wegh, Kal‘at, 325 

“Wejkile, Ammu (h6), 172 

Al-Wejmijje (h—i4), 1383 

Al-‘Wejned (h5), 176, 177; (h6), 167, 173; 136. 
See also al-“Uwejned 

Weld ‘Ali, 26, 154, 155, 175, 284 

Weld Slejman (or Sliman), 154, 155, 225, 226 

Al-Weli ‘Azzam (f2), 96 

Al-Weli Hammad, 55 

Al-Weli Sam‘dal (e3), 738, 96, 101, 270 

Al-Welijje Sa‘ide (£8), 99 

Wellhausen, J., 315 

Wells, 196, 197, 220; al-Batra, 45, 46; danger 
of approaching, 25; Hagar and the well, 
265; MSaS al-Gdejd, 181, 183; rain wells, 15; 
Tebtk, 168 


INDEX O73 


Al-Wéwi (i4), 183 

Wéezrat, Ammu (j9), 222 

Whajde (b4) 

Wheat, 51, 62 

“Wilderness, great and terrible’’, 263, 270 

Winckler, Hugo, 274, 288, 290, 340 

Windmill, 161 

Winds, 157 

Al-Wited (k8), 182, 134, 205, 206 

Al-Wkala’, 235 

Wokob (h2), 117 

Women, childless, aided by boulder, 81 

Worms that fell from Job, 230, 232 

Al-Worob (h8), 202, 231 

Wraka (Fagonia glutinosa, Del.; Fagonia 
mollis, Del.; bushy subshrub with hairy and 
spiny branches, pink flowers, and green 
pods), 68 

Vir ohitsm) smse nx 

Wudej, 141 

Al-Wudej (h6), 172 

Wudej al-Kahwa (i9), 226 

Wudej Rakeb (e5), 41—43 

Wudej Selit (i9), 226 

Al-Wudijan (NA d13—j16), 307 

Al-Wugéra (f3), 97 

Al-Wugide (e3), 76 

Al-Wutejdat (c4); (k7—8), 132, 134, 186 

Al-Wuzerijjet al-Béza (i8), 202 

Al-Wuzerijjet as-Samra (i8), 202 


Z. Abbreviation for Zel®. Sze proper name 
Zien (110) se2ne 

Az-Za‘ame (18), 135 

Zaba’, 136, 257 

Zab‘an (g7), 172 

Az-Zabbale, 211 

Az-Zab‘i (d3), 70, 79; (h7) 
Az-Zabidi, 280, 840 

Az-Zab‘ijje (h4), 183, 144 
Zadagatta, 64, 65 

Za‘ejter, Kal‘at (h5), 154, 155 
Zahaéan, 313 

Zahakan (j—k5), 182; (k5), 131, 136, 137, 313 
Az-Zahi (j—k9) 

Az-Zahlita (i4), 1386 

Az-Zahr (e4), 68, 75, 84, 96 
Zahr al-“Akaba, 338, 39, 329 
Zahr al-Hags, 232 

Zahr al-Hagg (h8), 232, 330, 331 
Zahr al-Umar, 324, 325 

Zahr al-Mohr (h8), 232 

Zahr Hemar, 828, 325 

Zalak, Abu (b4—5) 

Zalta ‘ESze (j9), 221 
Az-Zamahre, 124, 129 
Az-ZamahsSari, 90 

Zambth, Umm (h8), 282 

Zamel eben Subhan, 23, 154, 175 
Zames, 311 

Az-Zamm (g5), 149, 150 

Zamr (k9), 212 

Zamran, Umm (i9), 226 

Zaram (h9), 226 

Az-Zarb (j6—7), 134 


Zarb, Umm (e5), 43 

Zarba, G. (c3), 50 

Zarba, S. (c3) 

Az-Zarba, 132 

Az-Zarba, Nakb (j8), 205, 206 

Zareb, Umm (d5), 41 

Zared, brook of, 264, 269, 272 

Az-Zarnutk (c3), 50 

Az-Za‘tar (b4), 50, 56, 58 

Az-Zawée (i4), 132 

Az-Zawije (i5), 180, 181 

Za‘za®, Umm (i4), 133 

Zba’, 136 

Zba‘, Ammu-z- (19), 212 

Zhe? (j—k5), 182; (k5), 94, 126—182, 1385—137, 
174, 257, 308, 318, 322—326 

Az-Zbej‘ani, Harm (b—c7) 

Al-Zdejje (k8), 206 

Az-Zebedijje (h5), 155, 156 

Zehijje (h4), 138, 141 

Zejd ibn Hareta, 33, 204, 280, 314, 315 

Az-Zejdanijje (c7), 32 

Zejjer, Abu (g5), 149 

Az-Zejte (f4—5, £6), 48, 164, 235, 812; (e—f4), 
ADs (Os 

Az-Zelakat, 330 

Zelakat “Ammar, 331 

Az-Zelfe (j8), 182, 205 

Az-Zell (f3—4), 96 

Az-Zenkulla (i6), 184 

Az-Zennadijje (k9), 214 

Zer‘a, 328 

Az-Zerafa (c4), 49; (£3), 97, 101 

Az-Zeranik (e8), 75, 76, 79 

Az-Zerb, Bir (h4), 133 

Az-Zerib (b4), 48, 50 

Az-Zerka, 284 

Az-Zersi (a5), 11 

Az-Zerw (g38), 105 

Zetdde (Astragalus Forskahlei, Boiss.; bushy 
subshrub with long spines and white flo- 
wers), 88 

Az-Zfafijje, 235 

Zhejlil (h6), 172, 175, 176 

Az-Zhejr, 184 

Az-Zibed, Twejjel (NA m6), 32 

Az-Ziblijjat (111), 220 

Az-Ziblijje (b—c3), 50, 58 

Az-Zihed (g—hs), 102, 103, 117, 123, 131, 316 

Zihjawt, 315, 316 

Ziklab, G. (k—I7), 184, 185 

Ziklag, 261 

Zimran, 287, 2938 

Zion, 289 

LIZX ole 

Zjejkat al-Fahade, 184 

Az-Zjejke (d3), 70, 74, 78, 79; (h4), 146, 148; 
(h7—8) 

Zkak, Ammu (e3), 75 

Az-Zla‘, 235 

Zla° al-Humr (j—k7), 136 

Zlac‘a, Ammu (f3) 

Zob‘an (k10), 215, 221 

Zomejn, Bani, 304 

Zophar the Naamathite, 249 251 


O14 


Zor (b4), 53 
Az-Zor (k11), 176 
Zorar 71 
Az-Zorf (e4), 96 
Az-Zrab (i8), 201 
Az-Zrejb, 144 
Az-Zrejbijje, 99 
Az-Zrejf (e3), 76 
Zrejs (k8), 208 


Zrab, Ammu (i10), 226 
Zrak, Ammu (h6), 159 


Zubejde (1 5) 


Zubejr ibn Bakkar, 2 


A 


THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


Az-Zufejjer (g8—9), 160, 282 
Zufra, Abu (h2), 117 

Zugana, 313 

Az-Zuhri Muhammed ibn Sihab, 134 
Zulaj*, 204 

Az-Zuma’ (k6), 186; (k9), 211 
Zumejrine, Ammu (h4—5), 149 
Zammarin, Abu (h5), 738, 154 
Zumrud, 301 

Zunnara (i4), 78, 188, 135 
Az-Zurba (i7), 194, 197—199 
Zwejbt as-Skur (h—i6), 133, 179 











p75 






oA. 
P 
a 
> 
. 


“Wigs 





DATE DUE 








Musil: The Northern Hegaz 

















| j<eeF the SY 943 2\j 















Foss, 
nénesijje 


s | 68 
Te)al-Waraka 








Amer. Geogr. Soc. Oriental Explorations and Studies No 1 


Lowland of 
9 al-Gafar 
A i : 4 zy ay 23-26 & July 9-12, 1910 
| MAANQ(2-9 238-239 II 
Tv 2 X : i 
b 2 55 SIS30 a Habra Minw 
| Taauanye J 43 
jp} —_—_—_—__} © 50 N51) air Modan 
AL-HOMEJMAG39; 6D Sal Batra 























© 
4101 
| z 
i 103 | 
HAWRAYG 7 


9-|20)MADIAN, June 2 
sie 149 


AL MALK 






INDEX MAP TO 
ALOIS MUSIL, 


“THE NORTHERN HEGAZ’ 
American Geographical Society of New York,1926 


Scale 1:2 000000 
QRILOMETERS 


a) 4 10 x 40 p 60 719 80 
’ ' 2 x 40 50 


ah 


MILES 


RDAMASCUS _--* 


RIA~” 






OAL-MEDINA 


MECCA 
240 


















































| .S) 









17) . 122° 
* t) 
~ LX 
RS ‘Yh jal 123 150 
S74 ee a 
ke { 136 Sort |H ~r153nJi5 Pee ae 
oe 25-|31) (W4k oS Naka‘Kema eruifg) Pee) [A ee Nea 
AL-HRAJBE” 4 II3RSARMA, 133 == ; , 
' une l4 OU SS zm 
M82 [135 Nn An 19 
B Le at ae Chea pte 199) 232" 
‘ 132 135 arm arfahon (WEORWAFA "= ie 
is a 
L ™ és “3 136 134-136 
AL-MWELEH ff 
32] 1S | 189, 34 
< i524 fs 











EXPLANATION 






\B7-- 


‘June 4 Route of author with dates and 
page references to text. 






53,61-68 Page references to topographical 
descriptions. Many topographical 
features are mentioned on other 
ages also; the index on pages 341- 

should be consulted. 












Only the most important place-names and 
those appearing in center heads in the text 
are shown. 


seeeeraree Harra (lava covered areas) 

































2s 









matt 











main map 


DAR AL-HAMRA 


Amer. Geggr, Soe. Oriental Explorations and Studies No.l 





Musil: The Northern Hegazx,1926. 
















THE NORTHERN HEGAZ 


according to the original investigstions of 


ALOIS MUSIL 


Professor of Oriente! Studies at Charles Yniversity, Prague 


———— ———" 


| 


b Scale 1:500000 
KILOMETERS 4 “= 
5 0 5 Deer 0 15 20 
: 
Explanation 


@ own, seat of administration A» barrage 













































: e village 9 BEk Bir, Zelth, pl. Kulbdn~ well 
| | "2 palm oasis with huts s Radir i hole in the river bed 
| ma fort -H Hobra, pl. Habari-pool of rain water 














olf Hirbet-ruins of a town 9A. Ajn-spring 
& ruins ~ Mokr,p/. Mkdér, Hesw, Jarab = 
| , basin of rain water 
| + tomb % cistern 
+. _ pile of stones 3 Muhon. sanctuary 
m cove MT = telegra line 
| gstation -a//way Z  relegraph stotion 
a) z===== foman road = postoffe 
-—-—- caravan road $536 height ir meters 
| | ——-— route of the author SRS Java 
bt aes broken wall 8 sand 
we Wadi, Se7b, intermittent stream =n Taf - pass 








> 


nan river,canal 5 ~ Sebel - mountoi n, mountain range 








rman ruined aqueduct $.- Bel - isolated, rugged mountain 



































J ) 

% y \ 
7 ) 
= 

as =) 


=, a 
Dbepbriue 


Transliteration 
































































































































Line (-) or bow (-) under the letter indicates on aspirc'ed, a dot/.)an 
emphatic, and the sign ()) over the Jeter a palata/ pronunciction 
| z=} -) . 

2 ee 
b= s=\~ Z-) (likez in ezure) 
t=-w 3—UF (sh) k-)| (like kin like) 

“tl t- (ts) $— V0 (sz) &-| (ch) 
— po (like g in gem, or =e f 
[p20 8—T deh, dioryinyoke) 2 (Gh dah) | L- J 
| hme t= b mI ¢ 
| b-o z— & (zh) n~ 
| } d= © fm & bib 3 h- 3 
d= (dz) r— & (ghr) w- 5 
| =) f- j-<¢ y in yoke) 











Published under the patronage of the 


Czech Academy of Sciences, Letters, and Arts 
and of 
CHARLES R. CRANE 
by the 


American Geographical Society of New York 


Broadway at |56 th. Street, 
New York,N.Y.,U.S.A. 


























































































































2 ry NS aga 
oS Sea 5 
ST s. “Re frig YS 



















(ce 2 
| Ys? \ => oe 
} SC ihee { Re! 
ALL? 
| Bure 



































Cage ¢ 


ap 











































































































































































































































































pt 


@ W 
eee % { 
i” . { | x a aaeianaed 2 | ncmrgiere\ “tte, e | ‘9 Pe,” 
4 H a Rs ay. . ane RAB at-Madais ” Ser t ey al Amar me i wi? 3 a | | ) 
i . Ben OW ip ahh af-Makica Sntahtl ‘ : ; ahay A wir am 
Ih : : s ~~ f A ome § < hats <mahé at-Makla jb < . / é e | } ’ } 
H Sapfemtle <b a $6 NG Fb Saganut Maine - 701’ a - G € A i 1 
Ht aT aS rs ss § % se | 
HI ays GN mite a a dome Lg ere ne, . | : We ae / Des y } yes? l 
i SapSoky RA $ Se} . Le yme = % OMepn S , ot Mbarr f F ‘ 
iif : e x ny PhS Sie’ “Sa Mme Ty Felt ge Mak aLABagrier = ae > £t fem, Y a f || 
Hi | —~ peck : ™\ eds hes ®  atthawat Meneney ee ~ — abu Darag ae # b e | 
1 Sabtpdral Qt eh, 4 oid ateKdyda Nigh Kron He . % ~ M e h t / f e e / | | 
( i SS Sto fee Sega ees anmads were } at-Harooat ITS . ig 
| I : "Moy A AY tate are mest , a / % i" © 
id : Saduwigh! Cn A Morayyr Siceje at e ee “$x Mheihd , +4 
J iW morn Spa Hibtain ae FabMatkora rai gah Frater . Jojo aba Uajhat i mon LOSS + } sal-Mohteteb / \\ | 
| Wi ~ \ ~(Ra- s { ed . 5 o — : 7 4 ‘ | / 
} | a hig? )N Perens ph) Se a? f Bade? 5 Tassie. S ath nine) ait abu Regjlag Ferdar at- Aya? f z ye 
i | ; a oui se -§ \ ” >, >% { CSO G3 ou ™ —— Z / 2 of 
) $ Re f g 4 - eh ulbdnad-Dimek ‘p | 
7 Beijet © ag deg |/ @ ~ 2 } | 
OSG ha — o> 4 S Sa % 
! aneNdéat o > aon ae vio* aby. 9 =e | 
- eh > 7 Ply’ Adame oan r mS ™ 4 | 
| g & ws , %® ey. 1 il 
: Sy 9° ‘ § or Rake’ Y a % ‘ F d } Hit / 
/ al-Batag-——“ od yO Fa f ‘0 : Ss 0 0 gosh / S$ , } | 
arin Darag ol-Mat v a 4 Y 9 - 4 € jj AK aw Aw se le | Ue 5 op} 
ay “le ( y ( eS | SS. pleti{ thes : 0— 
Le : e + Le® (CS, “ 22 es ay 9 
Mahassae al Harem : z at~ 
V a 
eo < 
oF 
; 
4\ } ve ist 
ih) x an y \4 ‘ BF Haxko oe igh’ ar Rawae: 
} 3 { ar } =z 1 
2 ® a 
|e ros 7 a ey f 
| h Y i } 3 s g c \ \ SelB | RD N10 7 : Uenm Hangar 
| 7 } Fi : as ¢ gS 3 - PStarina’-3- Sead, = 
a y iS 
| * ‘ 2 ~ Ba Wi? OS Awa 
Yl CAS | s F} } eensiog at “Mehatdhia 
| | aaa Ot] L Lal AS al tae BHT gino 
te 4 103° @al-Bor ab al-Mar 
ey ) “Alma Rhejbe 
| } © } 
1] 0 Rajaman 
‘g 
= 
} 
/ 
} Senafir Q 
j cc abu Suswe | al-Maksad 
. 
\ 
Annex to the Southeast border. ‘ale 
. Barkan Ny ae 
a S 








iff Z4 
N's) \es eerie as 
% is ee aye: fastens 


bore? _ ‘i 
Stef ha:Semen” pie oa frog oa a 
















—— sl ag # j 
a-Bichtvane Ben) ga yarial: Fahey ( ie 
2 honcd 























FE feet 2 


Pie = SM oe \ 
at 7 ae Metjan x \ Dy ig KG “LY. 
” aR bumencb prev ad 22 ince) F i 

























Vex 
| ____aa Ser Abdallah 3.2 Le 


al-Hréleh @ aa 























alMigtae 34 
abu Seriré ty ik, 
Sermal-Harr 


















Ney girant -Hrasher 7 
» A lye! 
> \9 LY f 






Rarkmit ac Reoala? 










7193 
‘Dar al- Homra 









_+— 






al-Mhasam 







jn al Bod’ » isn ade ing 
) fF (at Fiantara \ 






































































































A 1% 
| adDijar ” 
PFA, ig Ss Dak-Ttish, “ 
Z wea $ 
DA an Heer ta 
x altMadbaX@ @ | — 
oo = / AM 
Sete s B, ab-Safas Cs 
Zber Qt Z > a en (cua tabs “ff ie 
j — AN us 
Siorsts pita ged patat aa os S45) 
x ; 
. yf 
iP ce 
a 
i= 
\ shore note 
a IE pe 
\ abu Sadar i 
abu Masdreb _ Ss = 2 
Val Meahhe 
| SP \e 
fe \ 
bab-S anak an-Na«man 
+ N a3 
Ac Cig e i .> 3p 
Ka‘ab al-‘Azam g 4 ¥*. 
‘hg Fie. 
®al-Mazham % 





























Pxiord Gafar 





































































































































































































Vitaxvi 





Pees eperieleltee 


Peper Serer Tete) 


Feld ay 


ely? 


lee 


ical 
Speer Library 


a topograph 


, 


eee aces 


CFTC eee ak 


| 


3: 
4 
te 


S323) 


* 
+ 


> 
a 
o 
= 
= 
7) 
Y 
4 
Dp 
= 
o 
.T) 
=< 
- 
c 
°o 
~ 
7) 
s) 
S 
ss 
a 


rgt hay Bek 
Salesot pe tale 


A5liv 
The northern Hegaz 


DS41 


serie Rar eee deletes 
fet : : hs Stabe er 
eer “ Soy i eit 

sires 


i 


pate 


abe 
SSit erat ates - . Ali : eresitest 


rovers: eceists y 


etal aus 


. 


Reapers 


i 


t 
rey 
Nepepseisemnst 


$S 
Het 


Sat 


ie f x : ; : 7th A ‘ : : : ; : vanes eo vlee 


Dee Tose: : : : 2 ; - j in edeete sree 


; 7 : i ¢ ASOT Te 
; “ : ‘ ORE eee 8 
: - - Ff : : Pi reerter teers 
ci ; erencegorse eet 
. i Bonne 


* 


Sao 


EEESSS pea 
nie : ate : me 
beep lec ei Z : ate me Beste 
ee 
Spas 
ty Op aie ipsa 
fe eas orreceee 





